|Season||All year round|
Waterval Boven – ‘Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media. It has become famous for its good selection of great quality routes (over 1000 of them!) of all grades that are easily accessible.
A PDF guide covers almost everything and can be downloaded here for free. http://www.climbing.co.za/areas/waterval-boven/
The following sections document new routes not yet in the guide.
- 1 ACRA Wall, Waterfall Area
- 2 Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area
- 3 The Junkyard
- 4 Bolder Area, Flying is Fun
- 5 Restaurant Crag
- 6 The Creche, Tranquilitas
- 7 Good and Evil Area, Tranquilitas
- 8 Malaria Area, Tranquilitas
- 9 God-No Wall, Wonderland
- 10 Disciple Wall
- 11 Hallucinogen Wall
- 12 Superbowl, Wonderland
- 13 Left Wing
- 14 The Theatre
- 15 The Mayhem Crags
ACRA Wall, Waterfall Area
TI' DRAGON 29 **** [15D, A]This fine route breaks through the roof 20m right of Urisk. Abseil in from chains just left (if you look down stream) of the obvious multi-stemmed cabbage tree. A 60m rope will make it with stretch, tie knots in the ends! FA: Grégoire Sobczak and Didier Hoarau 2016.
Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area
MADIBA MAGIC 19 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. A 65m-70m rope is required, although there is a possibility of scrambling down the last couple of meters. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
BIBICHE LINE 20 **** [14D,A] Left of SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD. FA: Fred Roulx 2016
PAINT IT BLACK 22 **** [15D,A] Right of SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD. FA: Fred Roulx 2016
AMAKROKOKROKO 25 *** [17D,A] Scramble up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. Move right onto the head-wall towards the top. FA: Hector Pringle 2013
ME 22 ** [11D,A] Starts on first bolt of WHO'S YOUR DADDY and goes straight up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
VOTE FOR PEDRO - TRAD 18 ** The obvious crack on the freestanding pillar left of Vicious Fishes. Watch out for loose rock. FA: Allister Fenton Dec 2015
VICIOUS FISHES 19 **** [8D,A] Situated on a freestanding pillar about 50m right of WHO'S YOUR DADDY. Start from the path and climb the steep left arete. FA: Hector Pringle 2016
SAVAGE CABBAGE 22 **** [8D, A] The line a few meters right of VICIOUS FISHES. Stick clip the first bolt (or lean across from the tree). FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo December 2016
OUR PLACE IN TIME 17 *** [TRAD] Climb the right facing corner crack ~6m left of IN MY PLACE. Pass the roof on its left side and then step back right. Continue up the face, which is slightly run out, to an abseil tree. FA: R. Halsey & C. Edelstein (Sept 2018)
THE PRET ARETE 15 ***** [TRAD] Climb the lekker arête about 5m right of FUNKY FRUIT. Use the tree for the lower section as required. Excellent climbing for the grade. FA: C. Edelstein & R. Halsey (Sept 2018)
DIRT RAIN 21 ** [TRAD] Takes the steep cracks on dark brown rock in the top corner of the gully opposite LITTLE BITCH. At the top of the cracks, step left and easily up to finish. A good feature but unfortunately the crack has a crumbly coating – should improve with traffic. FA: R. Halsey & C. Edelstein (Sept 2018)
The FRET ARETE (22R) ***** [TRAD] The aesthetic arête on the wall opposite LITTLE BITCH, and left of a large tree up the slope from FUNKY FRUIT. Excellent climbing, sparse gear. Start on the left and follow the arête with a triangular recess about halfway up. Look for cunning gear placements on the right wall. Small nuts/cams and micronuts recommended. FA: R. Halsey & C. Edelstein (Sept 2018)
Bolder Area, Flying is Fun
These climbs are on the big blocks below the Flying Is Fun cliff accessed from the BOLTED BONES side of the main crag.
BOLDER PROBLEM 23 *** [5D] The steep face on the boulder behind BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN. FA: Mike Cartwright 1992. BB Clive Curson
LEARNING TO FLY 21 *** [7D] Climb the steep face right and 7m around the corner from BOLDER PROBLEM. Expect slopes. FA: Geoff Rehmet 2005. BB Roland Magg
Looking down from Flying is Fun, the next routes are on the block about 4m to the R (northwest). Closest to LEARNING TO FLY are DAVY CROCKETT and HAGAR, on either side of a tree. About 12m L down the hill along the slabby face is a 3m down step. The arête at the lower level 3m further L is bounded by ARTHUR on the R and GALAHAD on the L (around the corner). NOT-SO-BOLD PROBLEM is a further 5m L on a raised platform. The KES arete is about 5m N of ARTHUR/GALAHAD.
KES 15 *** [5D] The overhanging arete facing NOT-SO-BOLD/SHORT & SWEET. Can be ‘boldered’ from the ground at the same grade. Perhaps reachy. FA: C Curson 4.7.2017
NOT-SO-BOLD 18/19 ** [5D] Can be started either in the slot or from the upper level. A bouldery sequence past the 2nd bolt will get you to the mega summit. FA: Robert and Trish Breyer, Clive Curson, Don Poe 3.2017
SHORT AND SWEET 17 ** [5D] The climb in the middle. FA: Trish and Robert Breyer, Clive Curson, Don Poe 3.2017
GALAHAD 16 *** [7D] Starts just R of the arête at the lower level. Climb up and somewhat L to S&S’s Ubolt anchors. FA: C Curson, T and R Breyer, D Poe 3.2017
ARTHUR 11 *** [7D] This arête can be seen about 7m in front of you as you approach the wriggle hole on the path from ACRA B&B. Climb slab R of the arête to Ubolt anchors. FA: C Curson, D Poe, Robert and Trish Breyer 3.2017
GUINEVERE 15 ** [5D] At the higher level 3m R of ARTHUR, climb past 3 hangers to chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
LANCELOT 16 ** [5D] 2m R of Guenevere and 2m L of a hanging corner, climb to chains at the top of the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
BRAVEHEART 15 ** [4D] Climb up to the hanging corner to clip the low chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
BOADICEA 15 *** [5D]. Crimp the slab 2m R of the hanging corner. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
HAGAR 14 ** [5D]. Climb the slab just L of the tree to high chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
DAVY CROCKETT 12 *** [5D] Start R of the tree L of the arête. Climb past 3 Ubolts and go R around the arête to Ubolt anchors. FA: Don Poe, R & T Breyer, C Curson 3.2017
GUS SE NUWE FLUITJIE 13 *** [5D] Tagged. Climb just R of the arête to anchors shared with DC. FA: Clive Curson, Don Poe, Trish and Robert Breyer 3.2017
KORPORAAL KLAP ‘N KOKKEROT 12 *** [5D] 4m R of the arête, climb the face using a big hold 1.5m L of the 2nd Ubolt. FA: Don Poe, Robert & Trish Breyer, C Curson 3.2017
KORPORAAL KLAP DIE KROKODIL 18 ** [5D]. Using the same bolts climb the face close to the bolts. FA: Clive Curson, Robert and Trish Breyer, Don Poe 3.2017
INSPEKTEUR BLIKSEM NEER 15 *** [6D] “Inspector takes a big fall”. Opened by one of the local Police officers. FA: Alwyn Venter 2001
LES TROIS MEUFS 13 *** [5D] "The three babes": To the right behind BOLDER PROBLEM is another block. Climb the crack. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001
PIETER STYWE SERSANT 13 *** [5D] The face / arete right of the crack in the middle of the boulder FA: Johan Olivier & Deon Vermeulen 2003
HELLE 7 *** [9D] Alpine?! On the next boulder R, about 15m R of PSS, passing an overhang on the R. The easiest way at the top is around 1m to the left (extra bolt out left); direct up to the (3) anchors is a grade or 2 harder FA: J Bollerup, C Curson 7.2017.
Please note that the best access to the Restaurant crags (and Gaper, Gym, Triple Tier) is to park at Tegwaan Country Getaway (https://www.tegwaan.co.za/). When you drive out of the main road of Boven heading to Tranquilitas, turn left after 2,5km into Tegwaan. This is 4,5km from the Tranquilitas Camp on your right. Drive straight towards the main houses (close the farm gate behind you) and park by the sign that says "Parking". Walk straight over the dirt track onto a hiking trail past some dams and follow signs for the "Stone Circle Trail". Along the trail, go over a T-juction onto a Y-split about 30m further. Take the left split and follow your nose towards the crags. Close to the little gorge where a small crag called The Gym is found, there is another Y-split in the path. The left trail goes to the Gym and Restaurant/Gaper areas. The right split goes to Triple Tier. Enjoy.
PLANETARY ALIGNMENT 23 **** [13D, A] Climbs the "hidden" line just right of WORLDS APART. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016.
- With the kind contribution of the MCSA Jhb/Pta bolting fund, the following routes have been re-bolted with new shiny bolts: MJS, GP le Chuck, Red Herring.
The Creche, Tranquilitas
The first 8 or 9 climbs described below (from L to R) all start at the same place on the far left (east) of the slabby area at a large corner with a sheer wall on the L. 3m to the R is a route tag at TALIA.
DANGEROUS 16 [7D,N] The extension of M(ICHAEL) J(ACKSON). In its current state, loose and unpleasant. BEWARE! Don’t climb it. FA: C Curson 12.2016
M J 11 *** [8D] Shares the 1st 3 bolts with ARIELLE. Climb up left on the R hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m R of HUFFING WARTHOG. FA: C Curson, J Bollerup 12.2017
ARIELLE 7 *** [7D] The major corner on the left of the Creche. Opened by Arielle on her 9th birthday. Climb up to the anchors under the roof. FA: Arielle Behr 12.2016
DOT 8 *** [7D] TALIA LH Variant. Starting in the corner climb up R to the 2nd bolt on TALIA & up to the anchors 3m R of the major corner. FA: J Bollerup C Curson 12.2016
LEO 8 ** [7D] EXODUS LHV. Starts up MAX heading diagonally R, crosses TALIA & joins EXODUS on the long ledge. Finish up just L of the fig tree. FA: C Curson 12.2016
BONGO 10 *** [12D] A longish traverse and a quick way to climb out after the day's climbing. Starting at MAX in the major corner, climb up to the ledge at EXODUS' 3rd bolt. Traverse R then diagonally R over a small fig to exit above CROUCHING TIGER. Belay at the chains above the huge sloping block, or lower back to the ground. Someone will probably have to follow the climb due to the difficulty of cleaning on rappel FA: Various (solo) early 21st century
MAX 5 *** [11D] Marked. Max (Gus' Weimaraner) has soloed this more times than you can poke a stick at. Starting at the major corner, go diagonally R (as for BONGO). Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The 2nd can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse Lwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully downclimb to the ground in the corner.
MAXIMILLIAN 12 **** [20D] The extension of MAX along 1000000 (lower than DOUBT), traversing the whole slab to finish at the top of the arete at KAJ's anchors. Very cruisy so you can stop many times to admire the view onto the great red walls under the farmhouse. Can be climbed as 1 pitch (long draws may be useful) or broken into 2 pitches at the 3 bolt anchor of MAX. FA: C Curson, G Janse van Rensburg 1.2017
MAXED OUT 11 **** [20D] The extension of MAX taking the high traverse of DOUBT to the MOAAH anchors near the arete. FA: Clive Curson, Donald Poe 2.2017
TALIA 13 ** [7D] Marked. Start 3m R of the major corner at a hard start. Straight up to the anchors shared with DOT. Opened on her 13th birthday. FA: Talia Behr 12.2016
EXODUS 13 ** [7D] Starting 1m R of TALIAs 1st bolt, climb up and R passing just L of a fig tree to anchors under the roof 6m from the major corner. There is a climb at Arapiles with the same name. Has a grade of 6 (Australian) and is about as hard. FA: C Curson J Bollerup 12.2016
EX 10 *** [7D] Using R O T A s 1st 2 brackets, climb up and continue left of the fig tree to the EXODUS U bolt anchors. FA: C Curson 12.2016
RETURN OF THE AVATAR 10 *** [8D] Start about 8-9m R of the major corner, to the left of a tree. Climb through the steepish start at a short crack, then somewhat R up to chains under the roof, R of a fig tree. FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg 2011
SPIDATRIX 18 ** [9D] Start 2-3m R of ROTA (just R of the tree) and up to the roof. Climb the arete up to chains below a shrubby tree. FA: G Janse van Rensburg 2007
DON 8 *** [7D] A more even-paced climb. Up SPIDATRIX 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor at roof level, or trend left to the chains on ROTA. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
MILOU 10 *** [8D] Marked. Start 2m L of the tree and crack, go up the slab to chains about 1m R of where the long roof ends. FA: G Janse van Rensburg, Charles Fourie 2007
FELIX 8 *** [7D] Shorter and easier than MILOU, stopping before the final crux headwall. Use the 3 bolt anchors to the R on MAX, or the 2 bolt anchor on DON FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Charles Fourie 2007
GARFIELD 7 *** [8D] A direct way to the 3 Ubolt MAX anchors. Start up the faint crack 1m L of CROUCHING TIGERs tree. After 4 Ubolts, trend R onto CTs crack. FA: J Bollerup C Curson 2.2017
SNOOPY 9 *** [14D] The extension of GARFIELD to the chains at the very top. FA: C Curson, J Bollerup 2.2017
CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10/14D] Shares the first bolt with MEL. Starting on top of the block R of the tree, layback the splitter crack past 3 bolt anchor (MAX) to 1st set of chains, or continue through to the chains above the sloping block passing 3 more Ubolts FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
1000000 12 **** [12D] Follows the double black mark-ed bolts, starting at MAXs finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways eg up FELIX, GARFIELD. From 3 Ubolt anchor move R then slightly down & cross cleft. Traverse R till black waterstreak on ROSY/MORT. Climb diagonally up into the tiny recess, then continue diagonally R to the top of the arete at MOAAH anchors. The view and situation on the face here would merit several stars even with poor climbing. Which it aint. FA: C Curson, G Janse van Rensburg 1.2017
DOUBT 11 **** [12D] Follows the red mark-ed bolts starting at MAXs finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways (eg CROUCHING TIGER). From the 3 bolt anchors, traverse R 2-3m along the ledge then up to the next ledge and continue traversing R crossing the cleft about 2m higher than 1000000. Continue rightward crossing the black water streak (1000000 comes up here), then go diagonally R to near the top of the arête at MOAAHs anchors. FA: C Curson, Don Poe 2.2017
MEL 11 *** [10D] Climb a couple of meters R of the crack (CROUCHING TIGER) and just left of the via ferrata cable to where the angle eases. Pass over a few ledges to chains near the top, or on up past 3 more U bolts and the huge sloping block to more chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
Here you will see a series of large ring bolts with weird shackles and a steel cable, going up and R. This is Gustav’s via ferrata. The climbs are bolted independently of these ring bolts so clipping the rings or cable is not necessary.
ALS 10 *** [12D] Jette's home island in southern Denmark. Starting L of a small fig tree just R of MEL), go up diagonally R (following the cable for 3 Ubolts), then fairly straight up to Ubolt anchors. FA: J Bollerup 12.2016
JANE 10 *** [11D] Starting up ALSs first 2 bolts, move diagonally R to the big crack/cleft above the tree. Up the LHS of the cleft following MTYJ (brackets) to chains. Currently run-out above the tree. FA: C Curson J Bollerup 1.1.2017
GUS 9 *** [10D] Traverse up and R following the black mark-ed bolts (and cable!). Start up 2 bolts of ALS, up another move as for JANE, then traverse behind the large tree and across the square ledge. Step up R onto the slab, similar to KAJ, and traverse R to the 3 Ubolt anchor at a ledge close to the arete. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. Can easily be soloed up or down with the via ferrata but know how to use the vf safely before trying this. The vf becomes way more technical and exposed going around the arête into the gully. FA: Gustav and Clive 1.2017
ME TARZAN YOU JANE 16 ** [10D] A cruxy start. Easier to start up JANE or TARZAN. L arete of large cleft, starting at a big tree 5m R of cable start. Struggle up corner & tree then up cleft to chains. Watch for rope jams when pulling it down from the anchors. FA: Agnes Fiamma, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
TARZAN 12 *** [11D] A better start to MTYJ, 1-2 R of the arête. Follow Ubolts to the ledge, then up the cleft starting on L. Currently run-out (for a 10 leader) above the tree. Jette Bollerup 2.2017
The next 5 routes (JACKY, ROSY, MORTAL COMEBACK, MOAAH & KAJ) can use 1 of 4 starts. Either as for JACKY starting inside the cave passing the square ledge on top of the block. This is perhaps more fun and secure. The outside start L of the tree (DARLING) is a bit harder - may have less rope drag, esp on the R hand routes. It is also possible to use the 1st 3 Ubolts of Tarzan or to wander up the via ferrata (GUS) to reach the square ledge. This perched face is generally steeper and less ledgy than the climbing to the left of the cleft
JACKY (Chan) 14 *** [10D] Starting in the cave, stem up and out onto the square ledge. Follow the brackets/hangers up, then a bit L. Finishes up the R arete of the cleft to chain anchors. FA: Charles Fourie, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
ROSY 13 **** [11D] Starts up the first 3 brackets of JACKY of the alcove onto the square ledge. Follow U bolts up the smooth slab L of the waterstreak. Using the recess feature in the water streak for a move is a bit easier. FA: C Curson J Bollerup 2016
DARLING 13 **** [12D] ROSY (alternate start), just outside the cave, to the left of a tree. Joins ROSY at the square ledge at 4m. Can be used as an alternative start to any climb between JACKY and KAJ, esp if there are others in the cave. Has the same Ubolts as ROSY. The 3rd Ubolt (just above the roof) could be better than the neighbouring hanger bolt as it may lessen rope drag across a sharp edge at the roof. FA: C Curson 2017
MORTAL COMEBACK 12 **** [11D] Starting up JACKY/DARLING out of the cave, go diagonally R, then follow P bolts up crossing the black waterstreak to anchors. FA: G Janse van Rensburg and Chris Jansen (trad) BB: C Curson J Bollerup
MOAAH 13 **** [11D] Mummy in southern Danish dialect. Start out of cave, then go diagonally R crossing the black water streak following Ubolts up the steeper slab to anchors. It is possible to lower back to the small ledge on the R and do all the routes on this beautiful hanging face from a 3bolt belay. FA: J Bollerup C Curson 1.2017
KAJ 16 *** [12D or 7D from ledge] Pronounce like eye, sigh, aye, guy, pie, I, sky or even hi. Not only Danes have strange pronunciation. Can be climbed from the ground starting as for JACKY/DARLING or down from MORT or ROSY to ledge above trees on the arete at a 3bolt anchor. Climb the exposed arete to anchor. Hard start off the little ledge. FA: J Bollerup C Curson 1.2017
A few meters R of the cave (and before CIF) there is a gully which can be scrambled via a small tree on the left or metal staples and the via ferrata cable. The next 4 climbs start just left of the Ubolt ladder using the obvious footholds. The RING bolts of the via ferrata are best not clipped.
BOY 19 *** [9D] Up using the incut footholds and perhaps a rung (for protection only) to the first small Ubolt, to an obvious footrail at 3m. Go L along this to the arete – via several inobvious underclings. Up the arete to a ledge shared with KAJ. Climb the arete as for KAJ, but use the anchors just R of the arête to minimise ropedrag. Easier if you are tall. FA: Clive Curson, Barry Brits 1.2017
KAJBOY 22 **** [9D] Start L of the bolt ladder to the footrail, as for BOY. Continue up the easy notched arete-let in the face. It gets thinner at the top, going up slightly left to a better hold. Could be harder for short climbers. FA: Clive Curson, Barry Brits 1.2017
KAT 23 **** [9D) As for KAJBOY to 5th bolt. Continue up straight or slightly R, via a 2cm foothold and R slanting crimp to a hard finish. Will be harder still for shorter climbers.
STACK 11 *** [10D] to the ledge above the bolt ladder. Not using the tree or ladder may be > 11 (13?). Up to the smaller ledge and stem the gap to gain the arete on the other side of the scramble. Up this (using ring bolts) noting the inter-locking stacked blocks at top. FA: C Curson 1.2017
FREDDY 10 **** [8D] Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m R of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route. FA: C Curson G Janse van Rensburg 1.2017
CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 ***** [10D] Climb the rightmost arete of the descent gully (marked CIF). Start just left of the arete, crossing to the right. Up to chain anchors. A great route in a brilliant position. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
FEEL GOOD 14 **** [8D] Start at corner 3m R of C I F. Layback to where the corner opens to a face. Continue to anchors. FA: Brad Davies, Kieran Davies, Hilton Davies 2008
EXCUSE ME WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 *** [10D] Climb the right of the buttress on/near the arête, starting 3m R of FEEL GOOD. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Derk Battjes 2007
GROUP DYNAMICS 19 *** [9D] Variant to the last route, starting up the corner 2m R of the arete. Perhaps 20/1 for short people FA: Balthazar de Brouwer and friends 2012
Good and Evil Area, Tranquilitas
PALAVER 17 *** [9D] About 8-10m R of the EXCUSE arête is a big corner / chimney. Up tree roots into chimney. Some interesting climbing will see you through to the top. FA: Don Poe Clive Curson 2.2017
HYDE 20/23 *** [12D] Good in parts. Start about 3m R of the corner/chimney. Steep up to the midpoint. Climb up R of the bolts on smaller holds. Delicate use of the branch up high will facilitate the direct finish. This has not been done without the tree – the crimps are small! FA(20): C Curson Don Poe 3.2017
DR JEKYLL AND MR HYDE 19 *** [12D] Start up HYDE to the small ledge/stance. Trend R past a Ubolt between the boltlines and finish up the last few meters of JEKYLL. FA: C Curson D Poe 3.2017
JEKYLL 19 **** [12D] Tagged. Start just left of IMOJ chimney – 6m R of the mega corner. Up steeply on mainly good holds then a bit L to gain the slab. Continue up to a 3 Ubolt anchor. FA: Clive Curson Don Poe 2.2017
I M O JULIUS 15 ** [9D] Another chimney 7m R of the major corner/chimney. The name came from Gustav’s previous dog – named independently (by someone else!) of the following dog CEASAR! Pull past the fig tree to get into the cleft. Follow this to Ubolt anchors. You can start up JEKYLL missing most of the fig tree at about 16. FA: Alard Hufner (solo) 2003 BB: C Curson, Don Poe 2017
DARTH 17 *** [11D] Not such a pretty face when viewed through the fig tree. But the upper section has great climbing. Negotiate the blocky little corner 2m R of IMOJ thru the fig tree to access this narrow face between 2 chimney lines. Take care with some of the blocks down low. FA: Don Poe C Curson 3.2017
JUST ANOTHER PRETTY FACE 17 **** [11D] Start up BRUTUS for 5 Ubolts, stepping left onto DARTHs face just above the fig tree, just below the crux sequence. These are very sweet moves, laybacking right and left. FA: Clive Curson Don Poe 3.2017
BRUTUS 15 *** [11D] Climb the chimney, as for CEASAR, but stay outside the cleft, stemming left onto JAPF to avoid moving into the bowels of the earth, where the climb steepens. Up to anchors just left of the cleft. FA: C Curson Don Poe 3.2017
CEASAR 16 *** [11D] Gustav inherited the dog with the name spelt this way. The route climbs the chimney 4m R of IMOJ moving 3m into the cleft at the steepening to a groove in the left wall. Protected by 4 Ubolts on BRUTUS, then 3 Ubolts inside the chimney. Use anchors above and left of the cleft. FA: Alard Huffner (solo) 2003 BB: C Curson D Poe 3.2017
Malaria Area, Tranquilitas
TEMPLE OF LOVE 18 *** [9D,A] Follow the path around the corner 25m to the right of the Aapstreke chimney. Climb the small open book and skirt the overlap on the right. FA: Liz Makovini Nov 2015
VISION THING 18 **** [16D,A] Starts 20m right of FEVER. Negotiate a small roof, continue up and pull through the cruxy bulge. Switch style and enjoy the face climbing to the chains. Important: To avoid rope drag, unclip the first bolt and use long sling on second draw beneath the roof. 60m rope essential! FA: Wes Makovini Sep 2015
God-No Wall, Wonderland
SLIPPERY WHEN WET 17 *** [Trad] - A great long crack climb to the right of SWEET PLUMB. Start same as for SWEET PLUMB (dont clip those bolts) up the crack to the excrement. Instead of going left up SWEET PLUMB, stick right and climb the rib up to the ledge that shares chains with THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES. Climb the corner crack to the cubby hole/chimney. Top out and walk down the gulley. Take a standard rack supplemented with doubles/tripples of #2/#3 BD cams. Gear is excellent! FA: Kieran Richards and Allister Fenton, April 2019
HAKUNA MATATA 27 ** [14D,A] Climbs the corner just right of a proud and steep knife edge 10m right of AFRICAN RAIN. Slightly lead out but safe climbing slightly spoiled by a halfway ledge. You need a 70m rope for this cruxy cruise. FA: Jens Richter 2015
GEM SQUASH 22 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
BUTTERNUT 21 *** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least an 80m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope with stretch will be only just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA
AGORAPHOBIA 24 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 19 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.
LEG-O 23 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
JENGA 18 **** [12D,A] Shares a start with TOOLBOX on its own bolts, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
MIKADO 21 **** [18D,A] Starts up JENGA. Cut right through the roof before clipping the last bolt on JENGA (unclipping the draw below your waist (and maybe some others) will avoid rope drag). Rest on the ledge and crawl up the technical wall as you wind up left and right of the line of bolts on funky holds. FA: Gustav & Alex Janse van Rensburg 2017
TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
HAPPY ENDING 25 **** [17D,A] Climb the line just right of TOOLBOX. Three bolts onto a large terrace. Straight up from here tending slightly left and crossing over TOOLBOX halfway up. Crazy beautiful after the ledge. FA: Marius and Philippe Gaboriaud
BINNETS AND BB'S 20 ** [7D,A] Scramble up the roots just left of the RODAN tree onto a ledge, then up left-ish for some real climbing. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2017
PURGATORY PERHAPS? 26 *** [14D,A] Between Roc Chucka Chic and Big Bad Wolf. NB: This route is 36m long - use at least a 70 m rope and tie a knot in the end! The belayer will have to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. FA: Marc Flex Efune 2015. Hardware provided by MCSA/Boven Fund.
WHAT BIG EYES YOU HAVE 21 **** [14D,A] Start on u-bolts as per ALICE IN GRANNYLAND and sneak around the right of the arête onto hangers till the top. Expect some spectacular exposed sections. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Stephan Isabeck 2017
DENDROPHILIA 21 **** [13D,A] Just right of BITTERGAL is a recess. Climb the bolts using the tree to get onto the fun stuff. Colin's grab-tree is a rather unique feature on this climb, lets hope it stays there. The name is related to the love of trees. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2015
LAST SUPPER 18 *** [13D] Starts 1m right of Lucy. FA: Wes Makovini 2016
MAZE RUNNER 24 xxx? xxx? Right of FIVE LIVES LEFT. FA Evan Margetts 2018
SPACE ODDITY P1 15 ** [8D] Start in the left facing corner right of AMDG. Climb into the dihedral and out of it. An ideal first multi-pitch experience. FA: Andrew Blanche, Nicholas Walden. BB: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
SPACE ODDITY P2 13 **** [10D] Traverse out left on easy ground and cross over HEMP ON A HILL until an obvious ledge is found as a platform to belay from. Rap or get lowered off the chains. FA: Andrew Blanche, Nicholas Walden. BB: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
SLOPPY SECONDS 22 *** [8D] Start on delicate holds left of SNAKESKIN to gain a ledge followed by interesting climbing. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
ALIEN 25 *** (8D,A) Starts about 20 meters left of Cactus palace (just around the corner). FA Evan Margetts. Bolts kindly Sponsored by the MCSA
DOUBLE EXPOSURE 21 *** [15D,A] Starts on the far left of the crag in the bushes and traverses right on easy ground with great views over the canopy of trees. The first bolt can be clipped into so that you belay from the little ledge 2m up. Extend (double up) the first 4 draws to minimise drag on the headwall. Use a short draw after the traverse before tackling the headwall. Clean this route by back-cleaning on toprope only! An interesting adventure... FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Philippe Grandremy 2017
SUSPENSION TRAUMA 24 *** [14D,A] Situated 15m left of the drip up a slightly overhanging face. Sadly some TV sized blocks took out a tree and some bushes at the base. Otherwise it has wild moments and good preparation for those wanting to go full animal. FA: Philippe Grandremy and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
ANIMAL LECTER 27 **** [14D,A] Rounding out the Animal Trilogy. A reach advantage led to the initial sandbag grade of 25, but consensus and symmetry with its Animal neighbours dictates a much more satisfying 27. Starts on white rock just right of the drip by the fallen tree. A scrappy start (may be wet in summer) leads to jamming followed by fun, sustained climbing up the right-trending groove, then left through the roofs. FA: Hector Pringle 2017
POWER ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Full Animal. Start by the white-stemmed tree and veer right onto the clean face after the third bolt. Choose your power animal wisely for the two distinctly different cruxes. Beware of wasps in the crack above the third bolt. FA: Hector Pringle 2016
FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The first line left of the Life in Orange project and Frazzle. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014
OPEN PROJECT Climb Giants. From the last bolt before the chains continue diagonally left into the roofs. See if you can decipher the hard move at the final roof. An alternative start is to link Karfoefelling or Ovamboland into Giant's crux. Bolted by Hector Pringle 2015
THUNDERSTUCK 22 *** [10D,A] Start steep under the overhang left of Miss Mac. FA: Mel and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
Green Machine 18 *** [D] Start up the crack near the arete left of True Blue. A puzzling crux leads to an easier slab. FA: Thulani Mazibuko 2018 BB: Clive Curson 2018
True Blue 15 ** [12D] Takes the red corner about 25 - 30m R of the descent gully. FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 BB: Clive Curson 2018
Red Under the Bed 9 *** [8/12D] The alpine arete between True Blue and Wysiwyg, starting just left of and below Mellow Yellow - smaller Ubolts. Go diagonally left towards the arete then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here or continue up to the Mellow Yellow anchors FA: 2018 BB: Clive Curson
Mellow Yellow 10 *** [10D] The face just left of the Wysiwyg corner, via a sickle feature about 5m up. FA: Clive Curson 2018
WYSIWYG 12 *** [11D] Climbs the obvious corner to the left of the large stacked roofs, 5m R of True Blue. Watch the blocks near the top FA: G Erens & R Dodding 1992 BB: Clive Curson 2018
CHACMA **** 22 [13D] Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
LO AND BEHOLD 19 **** [12D] Starts between two trees. Looks way too steep and blank for this grade, but be assured that excellent holds appear - especially just after the crux, where there seems to be a bit of a runout. Climb 5m right of New York Chocolate Fudge, at a fig tree. When the going gets tough, just keep cranking! FA: Clive Curson & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2018
THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS 19 *** [11D???] The shallow corner. Route has been retrobolted. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens 1991 Clive Curson 2018
SHUT UP AND DIE LIKE AN AVIATOR 16 **** [14D] Have a safe flight - now bolted. Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. FA: Mike Hislop 1992 (trad) BB: Clive Curson 2018
G-STRING IN G-MINOR 22 **** [13D] Starts 2m left of the Euphorbia (Naboom), using the cracks to clear the bulge. Cross left over AVIATOR at a third way up at the shared ledge using hangers. Then it is all the business trying to keep your G-string clean! FA: Gustav & Mel Janse van Rensburg 2018
STAGE FRIGHT 19 *** [16D] Not so scary now with bolts. Starting 5m left of the CS corner, go up and somewhat left to the arete. Follow this to anchors. FA: Clive Curson 1992 BB: Clive Curson 2018
2b or not 2b 14 **** [12D] A fairly moderate way to the highest ledge (80% up) in the middle of this impressive amphitheatre. Starting 3m left of Centre Stage, go up to the diagonal break leading back to the main corner. Last move to the lower anchors is the crux. Extend draws in the mis-section. FA: Arielle & Talia Behr 2018.
CENTRE STAGE 18 *** [15D] Takes the main corner. Avoid the weird looking pillar on your left low down. Crux layback at the top. FA: Clive Curson 1992
BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [14D] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was re-bolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.
The Mayhem Crags
Actually where the greatest tranquility is found. These crags are on Orubeni farm, south of Tranquiltas, accessed by a 15 minute easy walk from the Tranquilitas Campsite. Climbing is on compact technical walls and arête climbing on amazing quality rock above a valley that is deep and unspoilt. The setting has a ‘wilder’ feel added to by the complete lack of any cellphone signal. Beautiful indigenous trees grow along the base and the crags are quiet except for the sound of the waterfall and the baboons. There are only a few routes at present but new climbs are being added. Climbs are shady from 11 onwards except for those at the Animal Farm Sector. The landowner of Orubeni has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules:
- only walk in by the approved route
- keep dogs on a lead as there are animals on the farm
- no fires
- no litter, including cigarette butts and toilet paper
- do not walk over the dam wall or any other place in view of the farmhouse
Breaking these rules could easily result in closure of the area to climbers so don’t be the responsible one
APPROACH The walk in has been marked specifically to avoid disturbing the owner, taking a short cut across the hill is absolutely not permitted and actually does not save more than a minute or two. Start at the boom gate close to the toilet block at Tranquilitas campsite, walk along the rough track for 250 metres until it bends sharply to the left and there is a cairn in the grass. Cut across on grassy track 30 metres to a well-worn mountain bike trail, follow this for 230 metres to a large cairn on right and cross grass to obvious place to easily step over the fence (cairns) onto a dirt road. Walk 100 m along the road through trees, when you exit the trees there is a cairn (should be a cow skull on it).
Both the routes and the sectors are described from left to right here (facing the cliff).
The Tramp Side Sector
When looking across the valley, this is the crag left of The Animal Farm sector starting left of the decent gulley running onward.
SAFETY DANCE 16 [Trad] - Climbs the obvious lightning bolt crack that can be seen from the deck above the corruption sector. Start in the deep chimney at the base of the wide Z crack. Climb the wandering crack and face all the way to the top. If you are so inclined to avoid the spice, take some larger camming devices. Dont forget to do your safety dance!! FA Kieran Richards and Tim Slab, June 2018.
A CRACK IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION 19 - [Trad] Steep leftward facing crackline. Tree at base in the way of starting moves. Use extra rope to pull tree back to leave unharmed. Follow obvious left tending crack. Insane. Insane. Busts to the ledge above and then up right and out to a loweroff tree. FA Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
FOG OF WAR 21 - [Trad] Follows the straight crack on the left side of the face. Directly left of Pick of Destiny. FA Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
PICK OF DESTINY - [Trad] Potential line with thin rockstack flake that might be the end of me.
GONE BIGALOO 21 - [Trad] Starts left of tree. Sketchy bouldry start to some great gear a few meters up. Follow natural slotted bomber flakes up, straight up to the tip of the cliffline. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
JANE DEER 18 - [Trad] Starts on a slightly elevated grassy platform behind a tree. Busts up the obvious splitter crack in the corner. Follows the lefthand big crack all the way to the top with some sketchy spice at the end. Variation of the uber classic original line, John Doe. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
JOHN DOE 16 - [Trad] Starts on a slightly elevated grassy platform behind a tree. Busts up the obvious splitter crack in the corner. Head out right following the smaller crackline of goodness, instead of the straight up deadly Jane Doe variation. Real steller climbing. Pick this one. Warmup classic. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
MONKEY MUNCHED MY MAGIC MUSHROOMS 17 - [Trad] Starts in the cover of the trees. Step through the tree into the chimney and make your way up to the first gear a few meters above deck. Bomber gear all the way. Climb slightly overhanging face up bomber cracks. Easier than it looks. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
Animal Farm Sector
This is the first crag past the waterfall facing NW on the opposite (to the mayhem) side of the valley. It is sunny except early morning, evening and cloudy days;).
Currently only one line here:
THIRD TIME LUCKY 23 *** Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing. Bolted by Allister Fenton and Chris O'Donovan. FA Chris O'Donovan, March 2015.
Burning Man Walls
Head right (south) following cairns and cattle tracks 450 metres to a flat rock with a cairn by a large wattle tree growing on the cliff top. Hiding behind this tree is an easy scramble down a gully into Jack's Playground. From there, the path going right along the base is good as it gives access to the Waterfall.
Probably the best sector, clean orange walls and aretes. The climbs are described from left (waterfall end) to right :
SHALLOW GRAVE 27 **** Currently, the route closest to the waterfall. A tricky start leads to some fun and heady pulling. FA: Marc Efune April 2017. Hardware provided by MCSA.
DEEP IMPACT 27 **** In front of a small clearing and a large yellow arrow painted on a boulder. 13 draws and chains of varied Mayhem magic. FA: Marc Efune June 2016.
POMPEII 27 *** Start off the tree stump and head leftwards. FA: Marc Efune April 2018. Hardware provided by MCSA.
CLOSED PROJECT of Marc Efune. Shares the first 3 bolts with POMPEII then heads straight up. Hardware provided by MCSA.
ARMAGEDDON 26 **** Starts in a slightly wet section between Deep Impact and Pandora's Box and leads onto marvelous meandering Mayhem magic. FA: Marc Efune October 2016
PANDORA'S BOX 31/32 ***** Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! FA: Marc Efune May 2016. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
KINGS OF CHAOS 27 **** Starts off a large boulder. Up then rail wildy left then up the leaning prow to some trickery, way too much fun. FA Andrew Pedley April 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
BLADE-RUNNER 28 ***** The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic?. FA. Andrew Pedley. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
The next lines are on the compact streaked wall with a nice flat base
GERMAN IN 30 DAYS 23 *** Starts at yellowwood tree, left of Changeling. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015
CHANGELING 17 *** Climb the corner. Try not to use the dodgy looking block low down. FA: Liz Makovini, June 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
PSYCHOTIC COMBOVER 27 **** Start in the corner of Changeling then head right onto the fun technical face. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
LUNATIC FRINGE. 28 *** Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
HULLABALOO. 22 *** Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of Lunatic Fringe. FA & BB Guenther Bargon, Maryke Nieuwoudt & Roland Magg. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
SUMMERS IN RANGOON. 25 **** Starts just beside a small tree at an ‘overlap’. Powerful start with endure wall climbing above. FA: Jonathan Cohen March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
CLOSED PROJECT of Colin Crabtree
BAG O' BONES 25 *** Up the face to the left of Burning Man, over the roof and to rightish and then back left at the top. FA: Dewald Kloppers August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
BURNING MAN. 28 **** Up the stellar red wall. A bouldery start, and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail R then back left to some trickery. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
THE MISSING RIB 24 [trad] Busts up the giant rib like rock formation between the two huge cracks. Traverse in from the left on the jug rail till below the big splitter cracks, trixy moves and fun climbing to the top. Topped out to the left but finishing on DCCD might make for a more pleasurable clean. Bomber gear. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
DEAD COWS CAN'T DANCE. 23 **** The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. FA: Mo Hopf March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
ZUPTA SANDWICH BAR. 17. ** Climbs the diagonal ramp before exiting through easy break to the top. FA: Guenther Bargon & Maryke Nieuwoudt Feb 2016
TOMPWE 28 [9D+A]. Starts in the corner and heads up through the big roofs. Full set of spectacular moves makes for a magical finale. BB: Dewald Kloppers, FA: Ebert Nel, 2018.
CLOSED PROJECT of Matt Hofman’s. 10 metres right (facing the cliff) of Dead Cows is a blank wall with a faint crackline up its right side. Starts by a tree stump. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
GORILLA TACTICS. 23 *** A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. FA: Marc Flex Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
MEDUSA. 23 *** The obvious large crack. FA: Ciska Kloppers September 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
APOCALYPSE COW. 30 **** Just right of Medusa's large crack. A tough move getting onto the lower face leads onto some lovely climbing. Tentative grade of 30 but might be easier if you're the right height. FA: Marc Efune November 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
PURPLE AND SHIT. 20 *** [Trad] Go through the roof crack just right of Apocalypse Cow. Follow the line with bomber placements to two more overhangs that takes you to the top. FA: Oan de Waal July 2017
FLEXSKELETOR. 27 ** Starts in the corner and then through the roof. FA: Marc Efune August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
SLAUGHTERHOUSE 5. 28 **** The beautiful technical face then wild moves through the roof. FA: Marc Efune August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
REIGN OF FIRE. 29 **** Pre-clip second draw to avoid a bad fall under the roof. Boulder problem at the beginning followed by great rock up a clean head wall. Grade not consensus. FA: Evan Margetts 2018. Bolts kindly sponsored by the MCSA.
HIDDEN FIRE 18 ** Continue past Psycho Bambi. Just as the path starts a sharp descent, the route starts in the red corner. Stick to the corner and move left at third bolt. Using the precarious looking block higher up lowers the grade. FA: Liz Makovini, May 2015.
PSYCHO BAMBI 18 ** [Trad, A] Obvious crack to the right of Hidden Fire. Chains at the top. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015
JACK'S ANXIETY 18 *** The face immediately to the right of Psycho Bambi. FA: Alan Hughes, July 2015.
GONE IN 60 SECONDS 17 *** Starts at tree to the right of Jack's Anxiety. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
HOP TOAD 15 ** Climb the chimney to the right of Gone in 60 Seconds. Finish on the left. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2016.
NO BUENO 16 [trad] At the far end of the gully in the corner. Climb the corener snaking right around the tree and topping out above it again. FA Ebert Nel, October 2016.
GIRL ALL THE BAD GUYS WANT 14 ***** [Trad, A] Hidden in the corridor just left of BSB. Climbs the obvious crack in the stack. Fun fun fun. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
BLUE STINGRAY BOOTS 22 *** Climbs the face on the free-standing pillar 20m right of Hop Toad. FA: Wes Makovini, Sep 2016.
BLACK LOTUS 16** The inside corner of the free-standing pillar right of Blue Stingray Boots. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015.
OPEN PROJECT. The arête just left of marakas. The perfect corner climb. BB. Alex Bester.
MARAKAS. 20 *** Situated in the atrium or inland ‘embayment’, 8m left of Drill Sergeant. Climb up the obvious crack line. Use technique and some balance to ascend to the chains. FA & BB Guenther Bargon & Maryke Nieuwoudt Aug 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
DRILL SERGEANT. 24 *** The corner 5 metres left of Sharpen Up Cupcake. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
SHARPEN UP CUPCAKE. 26 ** From the gulley, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood to an ‘embayment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical slab/face. FA: Michelle van Aswegen, November 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
Head right (south) following cairns and cattle tracks 450 metres to a flat rock with a cairn by a large wattle tree growing on the cliff top. Hiding behind this tree is an easy scramble down a gully, leading you into Jack's Playground.
JACK AND JILL. 14 on toprope. In the descent gully on left. Start at the same base as Jack In A Box but veers up left to the hanging bolts. BB Alan Hughes. Dec 2015.
JACK IN A BOX. 14 * [5D,A] In the descent gully on left. Starts from the centre of the shelf and follows bolts direct to the top. BB Alan Hughes. Dec 2015.
JACK BE NIMBLE. 16 ** [7D, A] At the bottom of the descent gully, round the left facing out to the valley. Start centre of slab and goes direct staying right of the feature. BB Alan Hughes. May 2016.
DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE 16 *** [8D] Find the secret entrance to a corridor hidden amongst the blocks. At the base of the descent gully into the Mayhem. FA & BB Liz Makovini, August 2016.
GEOMANCER 16 ** Once down the gulley, turn left instead of right, its after about 20 metres and can be seen from the top. Hangers are all painted brown. The climb starts in a corner where you gain a ledge, and the climbing starts. FA & BB Liz Makovini, May 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
REQUIEM FOR A YELLOWWOOD 14 ** Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face. FA: Wes Makovini, June 2015
The Broken Sector
This is the sector left of the Hell Yeah sector. It starts a tier directly below The Mayhem thus abseiling into the furthest end and walking out via the Large Decent Gully is possible. The wall is very broken, but still solid. Incredible potential. Maybe a path linking the farend and the mayhem gully might be welcome.
Hell Yeah Sector
This sector is located between the corruption sector and The Mayhem entance gully. It is situated on a lower tier. It has not been cleared to enter from the mayhem tier, so abseiling in or walking from the far deck side are the current ways in. Great potential for sport and trad climbing.
IN LOVE WITH A SWINGER 18 [trad] Situated on the left arête of the cove. Sling the tree and hope not to fly followed by great gear and amazing climbing. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to bolt this line.
MONKEY 17 [trad] In the left corner of the cove. Crack line to the top. The line that drew development to the area. Very cool. Very well protected. FA: Mitchell Jansen van Rensburg, October 2016.
JUST SMILE AND WAVE BOYS! JUST SMILE AND WAVE 20 [trad,R] Climb the right arête of the cove from the tree base belay start. Make your way up intricate tecnical climbing, followed by great climbing and gear, sling the tree root, place gear in the arête and fly to the top on the juggy arête worrying about nothing but the climbing . Run out but fun. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to bolt.
ALLOCENTRIC 22 [trad, A] Located left of the tiny ominous cave with hourglass shaped cracks above it. An overhanging crack line with extraordinary holds making for next level climbing. There is a thinner crack line on this same face to the right. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016
YOU'RE ON YOUR OWN 24 [10D+A] To the right of the tiny ominous cave. Line of big moves pulling left of big blocks to gain access to a head wall after a break, finishing on an arête that will leave you alone... dont flake it... dont yoyo... FA: Ebert Nel, 2018.
This sector runs from the start of the lower tier crag once passing The Library or finishing the descent of the gully. This means it runs all the way under the Corruption sector and along to the Son of Godno wall (small 30 degree face with rolling rounded jug rails. Past this (further left along the crag) is a bushwacking followed by The Hell Yeah sector that starts with a massive slab beginner section.
MYTH BUSTED 23 **** [7D+A] The sweet fun route on the left arete of the "mini godno". Seriously this wall cant host a bad route! FA: Tim Slab, Joshua McNally and Evan Margetts. Bolts kindly sponsored by the MCSA.
WELCOME TO VALHALLA 24 ***** [6D+A] 30 degree wall of rounded jug rail madness. Shares a starting platform and first bolt with Myth Busted. Starts in the large openbook and rails out left to the jug on the corner following some trixyness, jugs and crazy pump to make for a classic. Opened on gear. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016, Bolted April 2018.
TARTARUS 25 ****[7D+A] On the mini Godno wall. The direct start of Tartarus, starting on the ledge right of the tree inbetween the two open book cracks. Starts as for Elysium and busts straight up instead of heading right into the Elysium open book. Powerful move into an undercling crack, with powerful big moves inbetween big holds that follow. Amazing clean overhanging fun. Opened on gear. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016, Bolted April 2018. Alternative start (Trad): The indirect start (24) starts in the same openbook as Valhalla and rails out right.
ELYSIUM 24 *****[6D+A] Starts on the ledge to the right of the tree. Busts over big blocks and then right into a tiny open book, followed by big side pulls allowing for bomber gear placements before the pumpy jug hauling madness and a pocket designed perfectly for a bomber red cam before facing the top mantle madness. A great thanks to the geckos that gave up their home. So much fun. Opened on gear. FA: Alebert Supertramp, 2016, Bolted April 2018.
SISYPHUS 23 [7D+A] This line is a visual replica of the Blade Runner line in Mayhem. It's roughly 50m left(closer to the deck) from the Mini Godno and directly left of Evan and Goliath. Bouldery crimpy start traversing right into juggy, balancy crack climbing on an arete. BB & FA: Ebert Nel, 2018.
EVAN AND GOLIATH 24 [6D+A] Overhanging crimpy face with a full body action pact power endurance sequence. Right of Sisyphus. BB & FA: Evan Margetts.
BERMUDA 25 [7D+A] Unique puzzling phenomenon. Not for the conservatives. BB: Ebert Nel, FA: Evan Margetts, 2018.
F.S.M 24 [10D+A] Starts on a stack a few metres above the path. An unforgettable sequence of majestic mayhem passing a unique off width, visible from below, leading to a beautiful head wall of pure bliss. BB: Ebert Nel, FA: Nathan Michlo, 2018.
Mythology Below Corruption
HYMN TO PAN 15 ** [5D+A] Go around the corner at the bottom of the Library. Stay close to the cliff and as the path meanders downwards and you turn the second corner, you'll find the climb on the small face. It is directly below "Contraband" in the Corruption sector. This is a truly magical place. BB and FA: Liz Makovini, April 2018.
The Corruption Sector is a tier/ledge that splits the crag in half along the height, thus corrupting the cliffs true height. It runs along a long section of the beginning/right side of the crag, so there is climbing both above and below this sector for part of the crag. The easiest way to walk to the corruption sector can be done by descending the Library entrance gully just downvalley past the deck. Halfway down the gully is a hidden entrance taking you on a fabulous adventure along a tiny ledge. This is known as the corruption sector. There is also a halfway narrow gully that can be used to access/escape the Corruption Sector from the lower tier. Close to narrow gully there is a block stacked corridor that cnan help one access/escape this tier to the top of the crag. Further along the left of the corruption sector, at the very end is a dodgy gully that can also be used to enter/exit the corruption sector.
POWER AND GLORY. 25 [Sport]**** Unique pocketed orange wall. Can be seen from the top and accessed by abseil, its on the section almost directly (a little to the south) in front and below of the cow skull cairn. Or can be accessed by walking 180 m left (facing the crag) from the 'Narrow Gulley' (see above), shortly after the ‘grey slabs'. FA: Jahne Theron. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
~Tricky scramble splitting the corruption sector, can be descended to lower tier (Mythology)~
RUTHLESS BEHRS 17 [Trad] The obvious crack in the corner 20m left of the bolted slab project of Jahne. Follow the crack up the slab and overhang and tend right toward the very end. Super fun for the whole family. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016.
Open PROJECT of Jahne Theron. A good 160 m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40 metre wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Jahn's Project takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some very hard moves on tiny holds. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
BONNIE 19 **** [Trad] Starts right of a little tree growing out of a crack one meter above the ground. Follows the crack lines left past the roof following the offwidth. Still needs cleaning. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, October 2016.
CLYDE 15 ** [Trad] Follows a rightward tending set of cracks up into the chimney exiting out the loose looking recess. Some gardening may be required for this one. Good gear. FA: Alex Janse van Rensburg, October 2016.
THE COBBLEPOT 18 *** [Trad] Starts left of the tiny Dr Evil roof to the right of a precarious pile that should be avoided at all cost. These blocks can go at anytime. Make its way up the cracks tending out right toward the anchor tree above Dr Evil. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016.
Dr EVIL 21 *** [Trad] Starts under the tiny roof a few meters up. Follow the crack that bisects the roof all the way to the top at the anchor tree. This is an uberclassic. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016.
H.H. HOLMES 19 *** [Trad] starts to the right of Dr Evil on the corner. A unique vertical crack set making its way to the anchor tree makes for phenomenal climbing. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016.
DOUBLE DEALINGS 19 **** [8D+A] At a big flat block base. Follows the open-book left corner that starts desperately under some blocks and then moves into a thin thin overhanging crack with feet still on slab. Dont chicken out left;) Opened on gear. FA: Mitchell Janse van Rensburg, October 2016, Bolted April 2018.
RAUCOUS CAUCUS 26 [9D+A] Starts directly right of Double Dealings. Climbs inside the fin, out onto the face following a crazy fine line of crimps in the perfect sequence to keep you shuffling your feet. BB: Ebert Nel, FA: Joshua McNally, 2018.
STATE CAPTURE 18 [7D+A] Fun flowing crack that looks really inviting. Climb it. Starts 4m right of Double Dealings, stepping across from the slab to begin. Opened on gear. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016, Bolted April 2018.
UBER FOX 22 *** [Trad] Climbs the intermittent crack system to the left of Supervixen. Pull through the lower roof and follow the break between dark brown and orange rock until a wide rail just below the top of the cliff. Shares the anchors and a glass of whisky with Supervixen. FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett, Aug 2018
SUPERVIXEN 17 *** [7D+A] Climbs the crack system 8m right of a big block. This climb is found where the path rises to an enchanting platform. BB and FA: Liz Makovini, April 2018.
YOU MOSS BE CRAZY 16 *** [Trad] Half way between "Supervixen" and "Surrender your Innocence" is a series of vertical cracks and blocky steps covered in moss. Start by climbing the large crack on the right briefly until it becomes too wide. Traverse left 2m and climb up to top out left of a small vegetated gully. Anchor on boulders quite far back but belay closer to the edge as comms is an issue. Beware of loose blocks! FA: S. Hoffe, M. Smith & M. Donahue, Sep 2018
SURRENDER YOUR INNOCENCE 15 *** [5D+A] When approaching from the Library, go past a jumble of rocks where a steep gully comes down the cliff. The route climbs the face just left of Cheap Thrill. BB and FA: Liz Makovini, April 2018
CHEAP THRILL 16 *** [4D+A] Starts in the chimney to the left of Time Bandit. BB and FA: Liz Makovini, April 2018.
TIME BANDIT 19 ***** [5D+A] This is a spectacular crack line on an arête that climbs up behind a yellow wood. Amazing climbing, a truly unique feature. Opened on gear. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016, Bolted April 2018.
PAYOLA [6D+A] Big open-book with a large crack. Starts under a tiny roof and ends after a tiny roof. Opened on gear. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016, Bolted April 2018.
BRIBERY [6D+A] Starts as for Payola, sharing the first 2 bolts, then make your way right onto the arête for some balancy trippy toe tingling twisting. FA: Evan Margetts, April 2018
GOLDEN GIRLS 19 *** [Trad] 50m from Narrow Gully, 2m left of Zapiro. Start on the right hand side of a large roof at 2.5m. Climb the immaculate finger crack behind a yellowwood. Step right at the top of the crack to finish up a smooth looking face. FA: Sarel Petrus, Eddie Harvey and Kobus van Wyk, Feb 2016.
ZAPIRO 22 [6D+A] Starts just right of Golden Girls. Follow the crimps into an orange ocean of sequential bliss. BB & FA: Tiffany Wells, April 2018.
MATA HARI BLOWS A KISS 18 [trad] Just to the right of Golden Girls. The large crack that can swallow your body whole. #6 Cam makes it possible, #7 Cam makes it safe, smaller rack and you're on your own. Permission has been given to retrobolt reducing grade dramatically. FA: Brían Meenehan, October 2016.
YOU SHALL NOT PASS 23 *** [4D+A] Technical balancy short boulder problem that might keep you busy for longer than you bargained for. Can be done with 2 draws, extra 2 bolts are for working problem, midgets and kids. Carabiners at chains for quick escape. Easy after decyfering the sequence, impossible till then. FA: Ebert Nel, April 2018.
PARAPHERNALIA *** [3D+A] Technical thin powerful problem. A boulderer's route. BB: Ebert Nel FA: A. Bester, April 2018.
CONTRABAND 23 **** [6D+A] Arête on the right side of the obvious pillar. A technical fun fest. FA: Ryan McCallum, April 2018. Bolts donated by MCSA.
ALCATRAZ 23 [6D+A] Pull through the buldge to get to the finger licking goodness. BB: Evan Margetts FA: Evan Margetts, April 2018.
NAUGHTY CORNER 17 ***** [6D+A] Climbs the secret corridor crack to some of the best jugs in Boven. Spicy. BB: Ebert Nel FA: Kiah Dinnie, April 2018.
The approach gully is about 100m North of the wooden deck (left from shady parking) and descends to the North. Towards the bottom of the gully is a small slot/cave that leads one through to the higher tier along the main wall known as the Corruption sector. Another approach to the Library is to go down the vehicle track into the valley further north past Touching the Void. From the top, just after the gate follow cairns down and right to a flat area in front of the main wall.
Routes are listed from left to right. True left is the left wall of the when descending.
Library True Left
Name? [5D+A] FA: C. Curson, D Poe 2017
Name? [5D+A] FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
Name? [6D+A] FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
CATCHER IN THE RYE 17 ***** [8D+A] Halfway down the gully, start in shallow openbook crack at head height. Technical masterpiece. Opened on gear. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016, Bolted 2017.
The BFG 17 **** [7D+A] Busts up the left crack of a double parallel top down crack in the center of the face. Good clean fun. Open on gear. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016, Bolted 2017.
The LORAX 18 **** [8D+A] Crack right of The BfG. Starts to the right and climbs into the right crack to the left of the start. Finger loving climbing after the first few bolts:) Alternative start on BFG traversing right into The Lorax. Opened on gear. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016, Bolted 2017.
BARRIER OF SPEARS 20 *** [7D+A] Has a left slanting crack in the upper section. Starts directly under the crack and climbs to U-bolt Anchors. An optional extension goes to a 2nd set of anchors on the right. FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
TOUCHING THE VOID 20 ***** [7D+A] Starting 2-3m right of Barrier of Spears, Climb past the overlap into a groove. Figure out which is the easier finish for you. FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
Library True Right
Bottom of Gully, routes from left to right.
TWO TOWERS 11 *** [7D+A] At the bottom of the gully is a free-standing tower. This mini alpine route starts in the slot to the right past a tree. Ubolts lead upwards up the stepped slab to anchors on the higher summit. Some closely spaced bolts protect each step. FA: C. Curson and D Poe 2017
MASK OF THE RED DEATH 22 *** [7D+A] Hard-looking direct route through a flat face. Starting up the cave slot (as for THE RAVEN) gain the face above. Follow the cracks and grooves to anchors. May be 21 for the tall. FA: C. Curson and D Poe 2017
THE RAVEN 17 *** [6D+A] Great bolt-protected traddy climbing, with the same start as the MOTRD. After clipping the second bolt, move 3m R to the jam crack passing an intermediate Ubolt. One way to do this is to stand on the ledge, then undercling the roof! Jam to the summit. FA: C. Curson and D Poe 2017
THE HOBBIT 17 *** [5D+A] Shorter than THE RAVEN but has all the excellent hand jamming. Start off the top of a rock 3m right of THE RAVEN, about halfway down the gully. Pull directly up into THE RAVENs jam crack. FA: C. Curson, D Poe 2017
NEEDS NAME? FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
NEEDS NAME? FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
NEEDS NAME? First route on the True Right when descending. Scrambles up blocks. White card on first bolt with a skull on it. FA: C.Curson, D Poe 2017
Top of Gully, routes from left to right.