Head toward Haartebeespoort dam via R512 past Lanseria Airport. At the 1st T-juntion you get to, turn left onto the R560 (past a Sasol garage). Continue past the Peacanwood Golf Estate and take a right turn (back onto the R512), that will take you over the Haartebeespoort Dam. At the next T-junction take a right turn and continue over Commando Nek and toward Haartebeespoort. At the 4-way stop (ther is an Engen on your left. This is a good point to meet your mates from PTA) turn left and you will travel parallell to the Magaliesberg range (R104) for approx 55km. Once you have gone past the Rainbow Chicken farm (approx. 5kms), you'll you see a sign to Sparkling Waters, turn left. Follow this road past the Bergheim resort (Fernkloof) and turn left into the Wigwam Hotel (This is about 1km from Bergheim).
Get onto the the N14 highway and head towards Krugersdorp. At the intersection with Hedrik Potgieter (Sasol Garage) take a right turn and drive until you reach a T-junction. At the junction turn right onto the R563 and travel past a Zenex station. Continue along this road for sometime. Once you have made it to the bottom of the steep pass and get a distinct smell of pig manure, take the next road left towards Bekker Skole. Continue onto the T-juction and turn right onto the R24 past Lovers Rock. Now travel parallel to the Magalieberg range, past Oliphantsnek. At the 1st 3-way stop you reach, take a right turn and the Wigwam Hotel gate is approximately 4.5kms down the road on the right hand side. The Bergheim (Fernkloof) turnoff is a further kilometer down the road.
Sign in and tell the guard you are there to climb and park by the entrance to the hotel. This is a private resort and the owner has kindly granted permission. YOU MUST report to the Hotel reception and pay for a day pass. The pass will cost you R25 per person per day which is very fair. Please behave when in the hotel/areas, horseplay and noise will be really bad for the way the owners view the climbers. Be polite, have a beer/food afterwards, it all helps to secure long term access.
Please ensure that whatever you carry into the kloof, you carry out. The kloofs are narrow and access is fairly limited, make sure you go to the bathroom before entering. Please DO NOT urinate or deficate in the kloof as the water is currently pure enough to drink, lets keep it that way. If you have to go make sure you exit the kloof before you get down to business. Please bury your deposits to avoid nasty surprises. If you see litter (and there often is in the kloof, due to baboons raiding the hotel bins) make an effort to pick it up on your way out and put it in a dustbin.
To get to the kloof walk away from the hotel back towards the tarred road. There is a sign marking the start of a "Mountain walk". Follow this sign and follow the track (looks like it has been made by a quad bike of similar) up the hill to where the track ends. To access the steeper kloof (routes below), keep left and follow the path into the kloof (you should enter the kloof at a small dam wall).
Follow the kloof upstream to find the routes (ie starting from downstream):
Wigga Pleez - 24 FA Mark Millar, Oct 2008.
A thuggish start from the boulder leads to some easier climbing above.
Spread Eagle Project - ?? (Mark Millar)
Closed project that heads up about 5m upstream from WP - bolted November 2008
Squawplay - 30 FA Andrew Pedley, February 2010
Another classic Wigwam 8a. Start up the slab and crack, right of the large fig tree. Sustained and funky moves all the way to the top.
Running Bare - 31 FA Andrew Pedley and Marc Efune - April 2009. BB Mark Millar.
Starts a few metres downstream of Tomahawk, off a large triangular rock. An intense start to a rest then a headwall with just enough holds on it. This sequence is a gift from god, totally brill.
Tomahawk - 29 FA Marc 'Flex' Efune
The kloofs classic line. A pumper all the way to the chains.
Moose Knuckle Project - Open project bolted by Marc Efune and Andrew Pedley
Starts up the first bolt of Tomahawk then breaks left.
Rest of the routes are above a big boulder that you must scramble up...
(take care on the scramble), you can bypass the boulder on either side, but the norm is to chimney up from the base of Tomahawk
Scratchy Apache Project - Open project of Marc Efune's
The first bolts above the boulder.
Last of the Mohicans - 30 BB(Marc 'Flex' Efune) FA (Curly) Steve Bretherick, Oct 2008.
A tough crimpy line snatched away from Flex by Curly Steve. Said to be easier for lanky people.
Two Dollar NavaHo - 30 FA Marc 'Flex' Efune March 2008
Hard boulder start (brilliant) to a rest then sustained finger maxing moves to easier ground. Feels fantastic!
Axe Wound - 32 FA Andrew Pedley, April 2008
Starts in the pit. Bouldery start leads to a half-height hard move which requires accuracy of movement and body tension to stick, or some sneaky beta... Compulsary showboat one-arm-hang clip of the 5th draw when sending for full pleasure.
Siouxsie and the Banshees - 26 BB(Hector Pringle) FA Marc 'Flex' Efune
Originally rap bolted by Hector Pringle. A great line with some awesome halfway pockets. Be sure to stick clip the high first bolt.
Return of the Bison - 25 FA Greg Bormann
A crimpy number that starts from the boulder with the first 2 bolts pre-clipped. The intention was to start the route from the ground, but a blank section has put that on hold, for now. There has in the past been a ball of wasps about 3m below the chains, so take care.
Return of the Bison Direct Start - Open project (Greg Bormann)
The direct start to Return of the Bison - may require an additional bolt.
Buffalo Come! - 24 FA Mark Millar
The first route to be opened in the kloof and by no means a classic. The bouldery start leads up to a surprise finish. Try not to blow the second clip.
The is more potential for more routes further upstream, but the rock quality is not as good as the routes mentioned above.
The are 3 additional routes and more potential for further routes in the narrow kloof.
PLEASE NOTE: There is currently no bolting allowed in the lower section of the narrow kloof (i.e. lower that Mind the Gap). Please respect this bolting restriction until access is granted.
To access the narrow kloof follow the jeep track mentioned above and where the track ends keep somewhat left. Follow the steep path up the edge of the kloof. Access is gained into the kloof at the first gully that is encountered. Once at the base of the gully (i.e. in the kloof), there are 2 routes downstream (left) and 1 route upstream.
From the downstream side:
Mind the Gap - 24 FA Eric Riemann
Mind the gap on top...
Smoke Signals - 23 FA Greg Borman
Shares the start with MTG and break right at the 3rd of 4th bolt. Also a touch run-out to the chains.
Next route is upstream where the kloof narrows again. You may have to cross a small pool to access the start.
Unknown Name - 20 FA Hector Pringle
A slabby number.