||ROUTE NAME / AREA
||# OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS)
||Look Ma, No Friends
||FA: Sean Bartleet; Greg Stewart; Richard Gee; Andre Dalais; Sally Hofmeyr (1998)
||On the left-hand side of the Wish You Were Here face, there are between 3 and 5 (depending on how you count them!) huge, right-facing corners. This line starts up the middle of the face to the right of the big corner that is closest to the far, left-hand end of the crag.|
1. 13 (40m) Start near the middle of the face located to the right of the left-most corner. Climb straight up the face past a few pockets to a big ledge.
2. 12 (15m) Climb the slab on the right and then up an open book. Move out left onto a nose directly above the top of the first pitch.
This is a pleasant, easy route with consistently clean slab climbing. Protection consists mainly of large cams in pockets. Walk off to the left and then around and back along the base of the crag.
||Magic Carpet Ride
||FA: Gavin Peckham and Greg Wooding (5 May 2001)
||This route takes a direct line up the buttress to the left of 'Red Satin Face'. Walk in along the base of the crag and past the start of 'Rhino…' and 'Red Satin Face' to reach the base of the huge, right-facing corner immediately to the left of 'Red Satin Face'. From the corner, walk left for a couple of metres towards the arête until the bush becomes too thick to progress easily. |
1. 15 (35m) Get up onto the face and then traverse to the left and around the corner onto the arête. Once around the corner, pull up on a perfect finger-jam (crux, reachy) and then climb easily straight up the arête to a stance on a narrow ledge about 5m below two adjacent cubby-holes at the base of a short vertical section. There is a good crack on the ledge and a pocket in the face at the back of the ledge for a belay.
2. 14 (25m) Scramble up to the cubby holes and then climb the steep, broken rock above them. Continue up easily and belay on a big ledge with two very large cubby-holes - almost caves.
3. 14 (15m) Pull through one of the two breaks in the steep rock above the cubby-holes and continue easily up to the top.
There is an interesting crux move at the start of each pitch. The rock is excellent and the gear is good. Walk off to the left and then back along the base of the crag - this takes only 5 minutes if you hit the animal track through the bush, otherwise …. We plan to bolt this route soon.
||Apparently a high quality climb with some wild positions. The route ascends the overhanging arête to the left of the slab where Rhino on the City Hall Steps face. The first pitch starts up the grey slab, just left of the corner.
1. 16, 20m (8D) Climb the slab to a hanging stance just below the looming arête.
2. 24, 30m (11D) Make a move up and left to gain a handrail, then rail diagonally up and right into the void. Crank through the bulges to big jugs. Stick on the arête to get to the final headwall. Stagger onto the good ledge.
3. 14, 5m (4D) Step up on the right to a foot ledge. Traverse right to a semi-hanging stance.
4. 24, 35m (16D) Make hard moves up the arête then head diagonally right to the base of a corner crack. Jam up the overhanging crack in 3 dimensions and rail right at the top. Continue diagonally right on the endless arête to the top. Use the anchors with normal hangers to belay off (the bolts with lower-offs are for abseiling).
1. From the top of pitch 4, a 27m abseil gets you to the top of the 2nd pitch of Rhino on the City Hall Steps. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE! Two more abseils from here gets you to the ground.
2. It is tricky to back off the top of pitches 2 or 3 with a single rope. It is approximately 40m to the ground from here. You could probably abseil onto the Rhino slab in 30m, but be prepared for some soloing/scrambling to get to the next set of chains.
3. About 10m left and slightly down from the top of the route are two access anchors. From these a 30m abseil gets you to the top of pitches 2 and 3.
FA: Hector Pringle and Heinrich Kahl, 2010-06-16, with thanks to Joffrey Hyman for earlier attempts. Bolts sponsored by the MCSA, Jhb Section. All bolts are stainless steel expansion, M10, 90mm.
||Red Satin Face
||FA: Gavin Raubenheimer and Cesar de Carvalho (1998)
||Towards the left-hand end of the Wish You Were Here face there are several huge, right-facing corners. Between two of these corners there is a superb face with three unmistakable, broad, black water streaks running almost the full height of the crag. The climb goes more or less up the left-hand water streak.
1. 11 (40m) Start just left of the base of the left-hand water streak. Climb straight up the broken face and belay on some large chicken heads about 15m below the point where the big corner on the left, hangs to the right.
2. 14 (30m) Move up the face to the overhanging corner and move around this on the right (tricky). Continue up the corner to a ledge.
3. 12 (30m) Carry on up the face to the big bushy ledge and then scramble up a chimney on the left and walk off. Alternatively, move up diagonally right to the chains at the top of 'Rhino on the ... Steps'. If you ab off the chains on 'Rhino on the …' you will need two ropes or a single 60m rope.
This line involves enjoyable climbing on good, clean rock and is reasonably well protected.
||Seize the Day
||FA: Gavin Raubenheimer and Andy Telfer (11 April 1999)
||1. 12 (30m) Start at the same point as 'Red Satin Face'. Move up diagonally to the right, across the broken face to belay at the chains at the top of the first pitch of 'Rhino'.
2. 15 (30m) From the chains climb up and to the right doing delicate slab climbing to gain a big uneven ledge. Walk to the right hand side of the whole face to a point below a steep short face. This point is about 6m before the right hand arête.
3. 17 (45m) Climb up the short steep face. Make a delicate move over a smooth section to another short steep face. Carry straight on up the big face above until the top ledge is gained and belay left of a huge boulder.
Ab off down 'Men Behaving Badly'. Enjoyable climbing on good, clean rock with reasonable protection.
||Rhino On The City Hall Steps
||FA: Andy Haliburton and Sean Bartleet (1996)
||Towards the left of the Wish You Were Here face there are two huge, right-facing corners. On the face between them there are three black water streaks that run almost the full height of the crag. The climb starts just to the right of the middle streak, then moves left and continues up between the middle and the left-hand streaks.
1. 14 (25rn; 12D) Climb straight up the face to where it steepens. Traverse left across the water streak (tricky, especially when wet) and then continue up to a stance on the slab above.
2. 13 (28m; 10D) Climb straight up the slab to a semi-hanging stance.
3. 11 (28m; 10D) Continue up the slab to chains just below a heavily vegetated ledge.
The route ends just below the level of the cave on 'Fight the Feeling'. It is possible to walk off to the left, but it is much easier to ab back down the route. Note: If your rope is less than 60 long, you will need a second rope. The route provides very pleasant climbing on good, clean rock. The chains on most pitches have been replaced or supplemented by Gavin Peckham
||Two Fingers in the Pocket
||(21, or 13, A0)
||FA: Dylan Salt; Dario Tedeschi
||1. 21 (30m) Start as for 'Rhino …' but instead of traversing left, carry straight on up the line of bolts. The crux move consists of getting over a bulge by deadpointing a two-finger pocket from a large hueco, followed by another thin move to the chains.
2. 13 (28m) Follow the bolts through some overlaps to chains on a slab.
3. 13 (28m) Carry on up the slab to easier ground.
The crux move can be aided by pulling on the draws thus reducing the overall grade to 13, A0.
||Men Behaving Badly
||FA: Gavin Raubenheimer; Trevor Johnson (27 April 2003)
||This route takes a line up the blunt arête to the right of 'Rhino on the City Hall Steps'. It is at times exposed, but well protected. The pitches are all slightly less than 25m long. The third and fourth pitches can linked using a 50m rope. Communication between the leader and belayer can be problem on pitch two, especially if the wind is blowing. Start about 10m to the right of 'Rhino…'. The first bolt is about 4m up. 12 draws will be enough for this route. This is an excellent route at a moderate grade.
1. 13 (24m) Climb easy rock and then pull up and over the arête. Continue up to chains on a ledge below the overhang.
2. 17 (24m) Climb up a few moves to reach the overhang. Bypass this by traversing out to the right (exposed) and around the corner to reach a tiny ledge. The traverse is easier if you keep your feet as low as possible and use the good pockets high up near the corner for your hands. Move up a recess and then left and up to chains on a big ledge.
3. 17 (24m) Climb the arête / face keeping either left (15), or right (17) of the bolts.
4. 10 (24m) Climb the easy face to the huge block on the ledge.
||Ledge of Renewed Hope
||FA: Jacques Raubenheimer and Hennie van Zyl (1999)
||Just left of 'Fight the Feeling' and 'Come Together' is a large column of rock lying against the face. The route climbs the face just to the right of the crack formed by this column.
1. 9 (15m) Climb up to the large ledge.
2. 14 (35m) From the ledge, climb straight up the face until you reach a bomber ledge about one metre square. (On the opening ascent the first two pitches were climbed as one. The ledge was reached just as the rope ran out, hence the name of the route !)
3. 18 (20m) Continue up from the ledge using the crack and face until you reach the Rave Cave.
Scramble out left and walk down or ab down the chains on 'Fight the Feeling'.
||FA: Helmut Gorgitten ; Renato Botte ; Kuit Buiggen ; Pauli Tieukwwalster ; Jtoly Sudtiroc (20 April 1998)
||This line uses the first two pitches of 'Fight the Feeling', moves left and then climbs parallel to that route. Grades are unknown, if anyone does it please send info!
3. (? ? ?) From the top of the second pitch on 'Fight the Feeling', break out left then up over a smooth section and belay above.
4. (? ? ?) Climb straight up to the Rave Cave. This pitch is left of, and parallel to pitches 3 and 4 of 'Fight the Feeling'.
5. (? ? ?) Start from the top of a large boulder in the cave, to the left of pitch 5 on 'Fight the …' Climb up diagonally to the right to break through the roof and then move diagonally left and up to a stance.
6. (? ? ?) Climb straight up to the top.
Descent: ? Grades? Comments: ? !!!
||Fight the Feeling
||FA: Mike and Ruth Behr (1994)
||The original line up Mooineok Mountain and the most popular. Easy except for a couple of moves. The Wish You Were Here face has two huge, right-facing dihedrals towards its left and a recessed face bounded by a huge arch on the right. This line goes up the face about midway between the right-hand dihedral and the left-hand side of the arch. There is a broad, grey, water-streak in the middle of this face and the route starts just to the left of this.
1. 12 (20m; 7D) Climb up and traverse to the right past the edge of the cave to a semi-hanging belay.
2. 17 (12m; 7D) Climb straight up the very juggy face to a very small stance - 3 climbers at most.
3. 21 (25m; 11D) Continue straight up to a narrow ledge. This crux pitch can be reduced to about grade 17 by lassoing the eye-bolt with a long sling and aiding up on it.
4. 13 (25m; 7D) Continue up an easy slab to a stance at the right hand side of a huge cave - the Rave Cave.
5. 19 (25m; 10D) Start on top of a boulder near the right hand edge of the cave, reach up and pull through the roof. Climb up tending right to the next set of chains. Climbers following the leader should be kept fairly tight until they have got through the roof as a fall combined with rope-stretch may cause them to deck.
6. 16 (25m; 7D) Climb up tending left and finish through a small bulge near the top.
Abseil back down the route. This is a superb and very popular line. During summer start early or mid afternoon to avoid the baking midday heat.
||Mr Teatime's Neurological Accelerator
||FA: C Reed and Alex Steyn (25 April 1998)
||Towards the right-hand side of the Wish You Were Here face, and to the right of 'Fight the Feeling' there is a reddish face that is enclosed by a huge, arch-like feature. The route takes a line up this face.
1. 15 (15m) Near the middle of the face and under the arch, there is a right-tending, vegetated crack. Climb this crack to a narrow ledge.
2. 20 (15m) Continue up the crack to a bush that is about 2m below the big roof. Ab from the bush.
Fiddly wires and long scary leads ! A good crack through the roof and a chimney above it await the attempts of an adventurous climber.