|Climbing Type||Multi-pitch Trad|
|Season||All year but winter days are short and conditions can be cold and wet if it has rained recently|
|Area||Du Toits Kloof|
The prevailing ethic for Yellowwood is tread lightly.
"Tread lightly" means no bolting of belay stances unless all possible alternatives have been completely exhausted. No placing of bolts for running belays that are not absolutely essential. No use of pitons, unless necessary. No use of power drills is accepted!
Climbers are asked to respect the prevailing ethic which is intended to preserve the aesthetic appeal of Yellowwood as a world-class Trad climbing destination.
It is essential for first time visitors to do an ascent of one of the existing classic trad routes to appreciate the committing and adventurous nature of the climbing at Yellowwood. Older routes such as Armageddon Time (and the direct), Blood is Sweeter than Honey and Time Warp are all test pieces for their grade. And newer routes such as Prime Time (and the direct) and Fantastic Time as well as "routes in progress" of which there at least 3, are no less demanding at the grade. Most, if not all the trad routes on the main wall have at least one "R" (run-out) pitch but none are "X" rated. None have bolts. There is only one piece of fixed gear on all these routes (a peg on Blood is Sweeter than Honey) and there are no fixed stances!
A new route on Yellowwood, Fighting The Dark Side Of Gravity, has had all its bolts removed, except for two that are essential for the leader on Pitch 3. Two non-essential pitons have also been removed.
There has been much debate about Yellowwood and the most active Yellowwood climbers have talked extensively so as to settle the ethos of this high-value cliff.
In a recent meeting Adam Roff, Jeremy Samson and Hilton Davies distilled the following:
Yellowwood is a very special Trad climbing venue and there have been some mis-steps in route development at the crag. Newborn was bolted many years ago before locals had given much thought to bolting and ethics. It is a legacy that shall remain, but should not be seen as guidance for route development at Yellowwood. More recently four new routes have been established by visitors who have made extensive use of non-essential bolting. Whilst route development is encouraged, non-essential bolting is not; and these new routes are getting their non-essential bolts removed. They will remain as good adventurous routes.
2014: There have been no less than 10 new multi-pitch trad routes established at Yellowwood in the first 5 months of this year. Together they constitute no less than 60 pitches or, combined, more than 1500m of climbing. All the routes have been free-climbed with the vast majority of the pitches of being moderate grade and only 2 pitches of grade 22 and one of grade 24. The routes are all well protected and no fixed gear was necessary.
All these new routes are on the buttresses to the left of the Main Wall. High quality High resolution Photo Topos are being regularly updated and if you down-load them to a smart phone with a good screen the actual detail of the rock can be seen if you magnify the image. These topos are far more accurate than written descriptions and line drawings. They are also better viewed on a smart phone screen than by printing them. In this way route finding is effective and the epic potential much reduced.
Willem le Roux
Rik de Decker
Andy de Klerk
How to get there
Yellowwood Amphitheatre is in Du Toit's Kloof on the Worcester side of the Hugenot Tunnel, approximately an hour's drive from Cape Town. The amphitheatre is on the south side of the road (the N1). (It's on the right hand side if you are coming from Cape Town.) A path winds up the right-hand side of Yellowwood Ravine to reach the foot of the Amphitheatre. The walk-in is steep and takes about two hours. There is a water drip near the base of Yellowwood that is unreliable and seasonal - June to December
Fees & Permits
Accommodation & Food
Attractions & Activities
Descent: Walk right(looking in) to reach a system of gullies beyond the ridge. Scrambling and two rappells over short vertical sections gives access to a traverse line that leads back left to the bottom of the amphitheatre.
PLEASE NOTE TOPO PIC OF THE MAIN WALL IS INACCURATE! Watch this space for a better version AND HIGH RES version soon.
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.
DOWN TIME Rap Route OR use the rap route (affectionately dubbed "Down Time"):
This rap route is situated on the west side of the Tea Time buttress. It has been recently improved to include another thread point which makes the rope handling easier especially in high wind. It also allows for less strenuous pulling down of the rope.
- Not the Best Time 19+ **
- Sublime Time 19 *****
- Lekker Time 16 ****+
- Another Fckn Time 20 *****
- Play Time 19 *****
- Divine Time 19 *****
- One More Time 21 *****
- Good Time 22 *****
- Tea Time (21 A0 or 24?) ***
- Zip Time (Abseil route
- Extra Time 24 ***** and Less Time 22 ****
- Fine time 20 ****
- FUN Time 20 ****
- Blood is Sweeter than Honey (22) ***
- New Born 29
- Prime Time Direct 24 *****
- Your Mother His Face
- Time Warp (20) **
- Time Warp Direct 26
- DOWN TIME Rap Route
- African Time - ''ain’t a straight line'' (25) ****
- Armageddon Time (23) ****
- Fantastic Time (23) *****
- The Second Coming (23) **
- Episode I - Fight Against The Dark Side Of Gravity
- Judgment Day
- Smalblaar Ridge ***** Grade F2