BEE Buttress

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The rest of the routes at Bee Buttress are in the Cape Peninsula Select guide book.

Approach

Park at the Entrance to Ruyterplaats Housing Estate, which is about 100m after the Suikerbossie Road turn off, on the Hout bay side of the nek. Follow the path along the left of the entrance to the Estate to a higher parking (safe but often busy parking found here). Across the parking area is an obvious path up a servitude that takes you to a pine forest. Enter the forest through a pedestrian gate, and follow the path as it diagonals right into the forest. The path does become vague in the forest,but becomes readily apparent in the lead up to it joining a path thru the Fynbos above the pine trees. This path T's a contour path, turn right and maybe 50m on is a left path that you follow all the way to the crag via the ridge line, scrambling over staples etc until finally the path spits you out at <ref>Sea Buttress</ref> (Lladudno Corner).

Aspect

This crag-like many Apostles crags- generally gets morning shade, and is a safe destination with a South Easter.

The following new routes are on the steep side of the crag. There is an abseil point just right of the Queen Bee top out.

The South-Easter can funnel down the adjacent valley so best to avoid the crag when it is blowing.

Honey Bail (16)

Pitch 1. 40m (16).

Starting just left of the overhang at the far left of the crag, climb the face tending very slightly right. Stance at the level of the abseil point.
FA: R. Halsey 2014 (rope solo)

Honey for your Money (20)

Pitch 1. 20m (17)

At the left side of the crag, pull onto the middle of the sea-facing wall. At the first rail, traverse left to a tiny platform, and climb up just left of some vague arête features. Hanging stance at the level of the main roof.

Pitch 2. 20m (20)

Move slightly right and then straight up, using a layback crack system at the vague bulge. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

FA: R. Halsey & M. Thilo. Jul 2015

Killer Bee (23)

Pitch 1. 20m (23)

At the left side of the crag, step off a boulder and into and arched crack. Follow this left under a roof to a vertical finger crack. Pull up past a vertical thin-hands crack to a wide rail. Step left and crank over a bulge (crux) to a thin rail. Establish on the vague arête, and climb up to a hanging stance (shared with Honey for your Money).

Pitch 2. 20m (20)

Move diagonally up and right for about 10 to an overlap (to the left of the long vertical crack in the centre of the crag. Pull through and climb straight to the top of the crag. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

FA: R. Halsey & C. Bagley. Aug 2015

New Generation

Queen Bee (24 A1)

Takes the central line up the centre of the steepest part of the buttress. The first pitch goes free at grade 24 to the hands free rest in the roof. This pitch will go free at about grade 28 if you can do the boulder move. (There was an ancient bail wire in the steep crack just below the roof, so someone has played here before).

Pitch 1. 20m (24 A1)

Start from the ‘sheep’ in front of a boulder. Pull steeply onto the face and up to a small ledge. A hard move up and left leads to a traverse left to the step vertical crack. Follow the crack to a hands free rest in the roof. Aid through the roof boulder problem using a marginal fixed wire. Move left to a tiny square stance.

Pitch 2. 20m (18)

Follow the vertical crack system to the top of the crag.

FA: R. Halsey & W. Gans. March 2015. (C. Bagley, S. Jansen van Rensburg & J. Theron on Pitch 1)

Affirmative Action (23)

Possibly the most striking line on Bee, this line takes the open book that separates the face routes on the main face from the steeper lines of the left. Considered one of the best lines in the area. Pitch 1. 40m (23). Head up easily and diagonally on good orange rock to gain the base of the steep clean crack. Climb this, and continue to where it becomes a thin finger crack. Continue straight up on easier ground, through the roof above on the right, to a ledge.

Pitch 2. 35m (18). Climb straight up and diagonally right through some small overhangs on the left of the head wall to the top

FA: J Lanz, P Lochner 1999 (Pitch 1) and M Cowen and J Mader oct 2007 (Pitch 2)

Bee Sting (17)

Start: As for AA: start beneath the huge hanging corner that is AA. Pitch 1. 30m (14). Climb up to a fairly wide ledge, then traverse right to the corner of the buttress. Step up and move right to the main face of the buttress, then climb up for 18m to a wide ledge. Walk right for 2m to the base of a thin vertical crack, 2m right from the edge of the ledge.

Pitch 2 20m (16). Climb this crack to a small ledge and continue straight up the undercut fault to a small recess. Climb the right hand edge of this recess for 6m to a small stance at the top of a pinnacle.

Pitch 3. 17m (17). Go up to handrails beneath the overhang, then traverse 6m right to gain a small ledge. climb the fault above, past a small, lose (but safe) flak to gain the ledge and traverse right to a stance.

Pitch 4. 15m (13). Traverse back left to reach an undercut recess directly above the last pitch. Climb this to a broad grassy ledge and continue up the weathered face beyond to the top of the buttress.

FA: S & A Cronin, G Athiros 1965

The Persian Persuasion (24)

Pitch 1. 20m (24)

Make a hard pull up into a narrow bottomless corner. Continue up to a ledge with blocks, Some hard moves up and right gain the steep, wide crack. Follow this and then exit right to stance on the white face to the right. Solid at the grade.

Pitch 2. 20m (20)

From the Anvil, head left to the stepped arête and climb just right of the arête until the overhang at the top Affirmative Action. Step left and continue straight up.

FA: R. Halsey & M. Thilo. Jul 2015

FFA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn. Jul 2015

BEE buttress
1. Honey Bail, 2. Honey for Your Money, 3. Killer Bee, 4. Queen Bee, 5.The Persian Persuasion

Joker Bee (19)

This is just a direct combo of some existing routes with linking sections.

Pitch 1. 30m (19)

Start on Joker but continue straight between two bushes to a dark grey face. Climb the interrmittent crack and then step left and through the bulge to join Beeline. Continue straight to a small ledge (below and left of the projecting block where Beeline goes.)

Pitch 2. 25m (16)

Head up and slightly left to follow a break through the overlap above. Head straight to the top of the crag.

R. Halsey & W. Gans. March 2015.