Black Ice Area
Ghost Rider (24) ***
Features a committing rising traverse and a grand finale through the roof.
Scramble up the left side of the large block left of Lord Foul's Bane. Pull onto the steep face and slightly left to a vertical crack (on the left side of a small roof). Move up to a depression where you can more or less stand. Fiddle in some small gear and then make a scary traverse left on a good edge with sloping foot holds. Pull up to the next rail, traverse another meter or so left and pull up to another rail. Continue left on a good foot ledge until it terminates.Long slings useful on the traverse. At this point there is a large roof above and to the left. Make a bold move up to the large under cling, move left over the roof using a projecting block, and then slightly left and up to a rail below the final roof. Crank and mantle over the roof and then easily up and left to belay at the left side of the large cave.
(Technically only about grade 22, but the route grade takes into account the overall difficultly and run-out nature of some sections)
FA: R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 13/02/2012
Spice Dice (22) *****
Black Ice Area, Tafelberg
A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.
- Pitch 1. 50 m (22) Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)
Diced Ice (22) *****
Black Ice Area, Tafelberg
Below the Black Ice route is a trapezoid (triangle with a flat top) shaped roof. Start on the left side of this.
- Pitch 1. 50 m (22) Climb up 2m to the wide rail under the roof (a friend size 4 or bigger is useful, but not essential), move out leftwards around the corner and continue railing for about 2 meters (strenuous), before thin feet allow you to climb onto the narrow ledge. Alternatively, do a harder (a grade or two) move in the recess at the start of the narrow ledge. From the ledge, continue for about 15m at grade 19 up to a tiny triangular belay ledge just up and right from a small right-facing red corner.
- Pitch 2. 25 m (19) Continue climbing straight up, doing a stretchy move for a good hold to get through the blank rock band, and continue upwards aiming for the rightward trending layback flake just next to the abseil point.
FA: Uwe Pitsch, Robert Zipplies, 1 January 2012.
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