Blood is Sweeter than Honey (22) ***
Start in the middle of the Amphitheatre, just right of a prominent big block. The route follows the break up to the first set of big roofs 120m above.
- Pitch 1 : (17) Follow the fracture system to a small roof. Keep going to a block belay.
- Pitch 2 : (17) Step left and follow the break, occasionally moving out right, to a belay ledge on the left.
- Pitch 3 : (20) From the right of the ledge climb up past an open book and go right to a hanging stance below the roof.
- Pitch 4 : (19) Traverse right to a break in the roof. Climb through & up the wall to stance on the right.
- Pitch 5: (16) Climb up & traverse left under the small roof. Keep going to a recessed corner with an arete on the left.
- Pitch 6 : (18) Step up & out left onto the arete. Climb to the big halfway ledge.
- Pitch 7 : (11) Scramble up and left into the recess. Stance on a blocky ledge on the left.
- Pitch 8 : (20) Climb the face above, moving slightly left onto the arete. Keep going to a small stance on the right.
- Pitch 9 : (22) Traverse left to a break in the roof. Climb the break until forced to move right & up (crux). Keep railing right to a break and up to a small stance.
- Pitch 10 : (19) Climb the book above & move left into the recess below a large roof. Move up & rail left under the roof. Belay around the corner.
- Pitch 11 : (16) Climb the recess above to a roof. Go left & up. Scramble off.
FA: P. Schlotfeldt & D. Shewell 1988 (See Topo Diagram )
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.
OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route