Canasta Buttress

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Canasta buttress 01.jpg
Canasta Buttress

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Climbing TypeSport & Trad
Crag GradientVertical/Overhanging
Walk in30 mins
Crag AspectAll day sun
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaOorlogs Kloof

The Canasta buttress (in Oorlogs Kloof) is situated about 150 meters up the hill from Wildcard Buttress. The routes are short and powerful, between four to six bolts long. On the whole the routes and rock are of good quality and have old school gradings, so be warned.

These routes were bolted in the early days of sport climbing so hand drilled drop-in bolts and homemade aluminium hangers were used. Needless to say these routes were no longer safe.

In December of 2012 Clinton Martinengo rebolted all the routes and also completely bolted both Colin Mozart and Canasta, converting them into fully equipped sport routes.
Guy Holwill sponsored all the bolts, hangers, anchors and drill bits.

1. Joker 18 N J Orrock & R Diesel 1990 The obvious west facing crack that one can see from below. The route is not on the Canasta Wall itself.
2. The Golden Sickle 27/7b+ 4B FA: Guy Holwill 1991 The curving line on the left side of the wall.
3. Project: Steve Bradshaw 2013 5B
4. Maverick 25/7a+ 6B FA: Jeremy Samson 1989, BB: Guy Holwill 1991 The obvious undercling/layback flake in the center of the crag. This route was originally climbed on preplaced wires.
5. Colin Mozart - The Demented Puppet 24/7a 5B FA: Guy Holwill 1991. Opened on trad gear and two bolts. Start up the ramp (terrifying) then break out right at the first bolt, continue up the wall past a second bolt to the chains.
6. Canasta 27/7b+ 5B FA: Jeremy Colenso 1989. Opened on trad gear and one bolt. Climb the obvious finger crack on the right hand side of the wall.
7. Five Card Trick 21 N Guy Holwill 1990 The short crack right of Canasta
8. Ace of Spades 21 N Andy Davies 1990 The short crack right of Five Card Trick

Alt Oorlogs Kloof

20111220 IMG 4650 oorlogs.jpg

Alt Oorlogs Kloof