Castles in the Sky

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Castles in the Sky

Ad climbza montagu info.jpg

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Climbing TypeSport
Crag GradientVertical
Walk in30 minute walk
Crag AspectMorning Shade
ProvinceWestern Cape
SectorCogmans Kloof

Castle in the Sky 21/6b 18 bolts 60m! FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08

This route has a little bit of everything and a bit more… it just keeps on going (fantastic!) it is of very good quality, enjoy the journey.

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1. Castles in the Sky 21 18B FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08

Warning ❗ This route is not to be approached with a normal ‘sport climber attitude’. It has a very big “trad” route feel and the leader should be very comfortable with grade 21. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don’t pull on everything (a helmet is advised). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Take along a few longer slings for rope drag.

   !: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully ❗

– Approach – Option 1: From Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. – Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. – Kit up here and leave rucksack. – Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face. Option 2: Walk up the usual route to Cogmans Buttress and then traverse across left to the bottom of the route.

– Descent – Lower off from 2 bolts into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. – Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.