Cogmans Buttress

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Cogmans
Cogmans Buttress

Ad climbza montagu info.jpg

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Latitude-33.814052
Longitude20.097529
Climbing TypeSport
Crag GradientVertical, Slab & Overhangs
Walk in30 minute walk
Crag AspectMorning Shade
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaMontagu
SectorCogmans Kloof

  • Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
  • Magical Mystery Tour 18
  • The Rave 22
  • Tocando El Vacio 27
  • Low Battery 23
  • Burnt by the Sun 23
  • Super Corega 17 (Trad)


Cogman’s Buttress is the large rock mountain that comes into view as you drive through the tunnel on the R62 (coming from the direction of Cape Town). The buttress has 7 multi-pitch sport routes and a couple of trad lines. The most popular routes are ‘Another Day In Paradise’ and Magical Mystery Tour’ – these routes are bolted extremely well (safely). An early start is recommended during the Summer months to avoid getting ‘burnt by the sun’.


Cogmans buttress paths.jpg


Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.

Approach

The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn. There are cairns marking the path.

Topo

Cogmans topo 01.jpg

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Another Day In Paradise P1. 4a/10

P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 P3. 5c/18 P4. 5b/17 P5. 3c/12 P6. 5c/18 P7. 5b/17

P1. 5B 23m

P2. 13B 25m P3. 7B 20m P4. 9B 30m P5. 5B 20m P6. 11B 25m P7. 9B 20m

***** Bolted by: Stuart Brown – 18 April 2004. Bolts & belay plates sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend. The 2nd Pitch of Another Day In Paradise can be avoided by climbing Magical Mystery Tour and using the link up bolt after the 4th bolt on pitch 3, which will take you to the stance above pitch of Another Day In Paradise.Descent: Abseil down route. 60m rope!

Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch!

2. Magical Mystery Tour P1. 4a/10

P2. 5c/18 P3. 5b/17 P4. 5c/18

P1. 4B 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.

P2. 9B 20m P3. 9B 30m P4. 11B 30m

***** Bolted by: Stuart Brown 8 April 2004. Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm Descent: Ab down route. 60m rope!Link up to second stance on Another Day in Paradise after the 4th bolt on pitch 3.
3 The Rave P1. 6b+/22

P2. 6b+/22 P3. 6b+/22 P4. 6b+/22 P5. 4c/15 P6. 6b+/22

P1. 8B 30m

P2. 14B 40m P3. 7B 30m P4. 7B 15m P5. 4B 20m P6. 11B 30m

G Hollwill & M Johnston 1998 Abseil down Magical Mystery Tour. Don't abseil down The Rave.
4 Walkin' on Sunshine, Woohoo P1. 4b/14

P2. 5a/16 P3. 5a/16

P1. 9B 27m

P2. 9B 30m P3. 9B 30m

Bolted by: Justin & Riki Lawson 2014. Start up the white ramp on the right of the Rave. The route crosses over the Rave.
5. Tocando El Vacio P1. 24/6c+

P2. 27/7b+ (there is a 19 variation to the right of the crux) P3. 22/6b+ P4. 27/7b+

P1. 7B 35m

P2. 7B 35m P3. 7B 35m P4. 11B 25m

Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma – 05.08.03 50m right of “The Rave”. Decent: 3xAbseils down the route. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!
6. Low Battery P1. 16/5b

P2. 18/6a P3. 23/6c P4. 23/6c

P1. 4B 20m

P2. 6B 25m P3. 4B 12m P4. 4B 12m

Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma – 7/8.07. 03 You might need a set of nuts on first pitch. Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground
7. Burnt by the Sun P1: 17

P2: 19 P3: 21/22 P4: 22/23

P1: 13B 28m

P2: 12B 26m P3: 11B 28m P4: 16B 30m

**** M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003

Descents

The routes here require a 60 meter rope - remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the abseils are very long.


  • Super Corega 17 (Trad)

First ascent: 25 September 2009 Nix Swart, Andrew ( Ringo) Harding-Goodman

SuperCorega.jpg

Approach:

Walk up as for the Rave. Scramble up left from the start of the Rave to a ‘nook” in the base rock. Look for a small cairn with a ‘Y’-shaped branch. This is the start. Suggestion: It is advised to look at the picture of the RD on the walkup up to try and pinpoint the prominent features mentioned in the write-up

P1 & 2 40 m, 13: Make your way up 40 metres to a prominent white triangular free-standing block. The ‘Cheese Wedge”

P3 35 m, 14: From the top of the cheese wedge block, climb diagonally left and up then vertically and slightly right crossing the left tending ribs to a small shallow dark cave at the base of dark brown ramp.

P4 20 m, 16: From the cave climb the brown ramp to the roof. At the roof traverse left and step across the gap. Climb up to the cave used by ‘The Rave”. Belay using the bolts.

P5 10 m, Scramble. From the Rave cave, scramble right to a white face with 3 cracks. Make a stance here.

P6 20 m, 14: Climb the middle ‘reversed-S’ crack, right of the chimney crack, to a cubby hole below and right of the gully with a prominent tree.

P7 45 m, 17: Climb up the gully, up and over the huge chockstone boulder blocking the gully, to the top of the gully to a bottomless chimney crack on the left. Climb the left hand yellow, lichenous face of the chimney onto the arête. Climb the yellow lichenous rib to a wide ledge. This pitch can be split by making a stance above the chockstone boulder.

P8 10 m, 14/12: Climb the slightly overhang rock 2 metres left of the right hand side of the ledge to the top. Or find an easier, Grade 12, way to the top at the far left of the ledge.


Descent:

Abseil straight down the route keeping to the gully and then using the Rave cave chains further down. Take plenty of abseil cord. And a penknife makes it easier. OR Scramble to the top after the last pitch and walk off around the summit and down the town side at the back of buttress. Long and scratchy. Not recommended unless you’re unsure of long abseils.


Eagles Folly Buttress:

Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.


Castles Buttress

– Approach – Option 1: From Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. – Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. – Kit up here and leave rucksack. – Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face. Option 2: Walk up the usual route to Cogmans Buttress and then traverse across left to the bottom of the route.


  • Castles in the Sky - Grade 21 18 Bolts *FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08
  • Sand Castles

- Pitch 1 - Grade 14, 9 bolts + anchors - Pitch 2 - Grade 16 8 bolts + anchors

  • FA: Garvin Jacobs 27.0415

Bolted with Hilti 316 68mm

Warning ❗ This route is not to be approached with a normal ‘sport climber attitude’. It has a very big “trad” route feel and the leader should be very comfortable with grade 21. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don’t pull on everything (a helmet is advised). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Take along a few longer slings for rope drag.

   !: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully ❗


– Descent – Lower off from 2 bolts into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. – Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.