Cogmans Buttress

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Cogmans Buttress

Ad climbza montagu info.jpg

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Climbing TypeSport
Crag GradientVertical, Slab & Overhangs
Walk in30 minute walk
Crag AspectMorning Shade
ProvinceWestern Cape
SectorCogmans Kloof

Cogman’s Buttress is the large rock mountain that comes into view as you drive through the tunnel on the R62 (coming from the direction of Cape Town). The buttress has 7 multi-pitch sport routes and a couple of trad lines. The most popular routes are ‘Another Day In Paradise’ and Magical Mystery Tour’ – these routes are bolted extremely well (safely). An early start is recommended during the Summer months to avoid getting ‘burnt by the sun’.

Cogmans buttress paths.jpg

Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.


The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn. There are cairns marking the path.


Cogmans topo 01.jpg

1. Another Day In Paradise P1. 4a/10

P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 P3. 5c/18 P4. 5b/17 P5. 3c/12 P6. 5c/18 P7. 5b/17

P1. 5B 23m

P2. 13B 25m P3. 7B 20m P4. 9B 30m P5. 5B 20m P6. 11B 25m P7. 9B 20m

***** Bolted by: Stuart Brown – 18 April 2004. Bolts & belay plates sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend. The 2nd Pitch of Another Day In Paradise can be avoided by climbing Magical Mystery Tour and using the link up bolt after the 4th bolt on pitch 3, which will take you to the stance above pitch of Another Day In Paradise.Descent: Abseil down route. 60m rope!

Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch!

2. Magical Mystery Tour P1. 4a/10

P2. 5c/18 P3. 5b/17 P4. 5c/18

P1. 4B 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.

P2. 9B 20m P3. 9B 30m P4. 11B 30m

***** Bolted by: Stuart Brown 8 April 2004. Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm Descent: Ab down route. 60m rope!Link up to second stance on Another Day in Paradise after the 4th bolt on pitch 3.
3 The Rave P1. 6b+/22

P2. 6b+/22 P3. 6b+/22 P4. 6b+/22 P5. 4c/15 P6. 6b+/22

P1. 8B 30m

P2. 14B 40m P3. 7B 30m P4. 7B 15m P5. 4B 20m P6. 11B 30m

G Hollwill & M Johnston 1998 Abseil down Magical Mystery Tour. Don't abseil down The Rave.
4 Walkin' on Sunshine, Woohoo P1. 4b/14

P2. 5a/16 P3. 5a/16

P1. 9B 27m

P2. 9B 30m P3. 9B 30m

Bolted by: Justin & Riki Lawson 2014. Start up the white ramp on the right of the Rave. The route crosses over the Rave.
5. Tocando El Vacio P1. 24/6c+

P2. 27/7b+ (there is a 19 variation to the right of the crux) P3. 22/6b+ P4. 27/7b+

P1. 7B 35m

P2. 7B 35m P3. 7B 35m P4. 11B 25m

Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma – 05.08.03 50m right of “The Rave”. Decent: 3xAbseils down the route. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!
6. Low Battery P1. 16/5b

P2. 18/6a P3. 23/6c P4. 23/6c

P1. 4B 20m

P2. 6B 25m P3. 4B 12m P4. 4B 12m

Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma – 7/8.07. 03 You might need a set of nuts on first pitch. Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground
7. Burnt by the Sun P1: 17

P2: 19 P3: 21/22 P4: 22/23

P1: 13B 28m

P2: 12B 26m P3: 11B 28m P4: 16B 30m

**** M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003


The routes here require a 60 meter rope - remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the abseils are very long.

  • Castles Buttress

There are two ways - From the start of Another Day In Paradise traverse left to the crag (this can be a bit bushy and there is no established path). Or Walk up from the other side (start across the road from Assvoelkraans Accommodation). Once at the neck, walk left approximately 50 meters, move over a small ridge and proceed down to the start of the routes.

Eagles Folly Buttress:

Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

Cogmans Buttress

  • Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
  • Magical Mystery Tour 18
  • The Rave 22
  • Tocando El Vacio 27
  • Low Battery 23
  • Burnt by the Sun 23

Castles Buttress

  • Castles in the Sky - Grade 21 18 Bolts *FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08
  • Sand Castles

- Pitch 1 - Grade 14, 9 bolts + anchors - Pitch 2 - Grade 16 8 bolts + anchors

  • FA: Garvin Jacobs 27.0415

Bolted with Hilti 316 68mm

Warning ❗ This route is not to be approached with a normal ‘sport climber attitude’. It has a very big “trad” route feel and the leader should be very comfortable with grade 21. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don’t pull on everything (a helmet is advised). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Take along a few longer slings for rope drag.

   !: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully ❗

– Approach – Option 1: From Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. – Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. – Kit up here and leave rucksack. – Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face. Option 2: Walk up the usual route to Cogmans Buttress and then traverse across left to the bottom of the route.

– Descent – Lower off from 2 bolts into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. – Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.