DOWN TIME Rap Route

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BE WARNED - IT IS EASY TO COCK THIS ABSEIL UP AND HAVE A GOOD OLD EPIC

Towards the right hand side of the upper amphitheatre is a massive open book. Armageddon Time climbs the headwall to the right of this. The first anchors are on a ledge about 4m below the top, and 25m left of the massive open book.

  • Rap 1: 40m. Rap off 2 bolts with equalized mailons. Straight down, past an overhang. Free-hanging for a bit. When you touch rock again place a #0.75 cam in a vertical slot and clip the rope in short. This will get you past the next bulge. The anchors are just beneath the bulge on a blank hanging stance.
  • Rap 2: 30m. Rap off two bolts with nice long chains on them. Straight down to a ledge. Completely free-hanging rap. You can just reach the ledge if you lean out. The next anchors are just to the left.
  • Rap 3: 50m. Rap off 2 bolts equalized with tat and leaver biners. Bring your own extra tat and biners if you're nervous. Straight down to the jumbo halfway ledge. Scramble down 3m to the lower ledge to find the next anchors.
  • Rap 4: !!!61m!!! You cannot get down this abseil with 50m ropes and it is better to go about 70m left and abseil down Newborn. SOME 60M ROPES MAY BE TOO SHORT especially if you tie your ends with long tails. If you are worried then use slings or tat to extend the point by 2m or so for the first person to scout it out. The lower bolt has a single chain which is backed up by a maillon to the upper bolt. The maillon cannot be screwed closed. Back this up if you are nervous.

The rappel ends on a small ledge with two bolts

  • Rap 5 and 6: 25M Rap off two bolts equalized with maillons to a station consisting of an equalized hex and nut. Be careful how you thread the rope because it will get stuck if you cock it up. Some 60m ropes will get you to a single bolt to which is attached a short piece of sport rope.
  • Rap 7: 10m. Either rap off the single bolt or rap or hand over hand down the fixed piece of rope and thenscramble off to the right from the ledge.