De Pakhuys

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De Pakhuys
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Latitude-32.120292
Longitude19.059516
Climbing TypeBouldering, Sport, Trad
Rock TypeSandstone
SeasonWinter is best, all year round
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaRocklands




How to get there

Fees & Permits

Accommodation & Food

Attractions & Activities

Map

The bouldering and sport climbing are on Thys Kruger's farm which is 26km from Clanwilliam, just over the Pakhuis Pass.

Access Issues

This land is privately-owned. The area will be closed if the following rules are disobeyed:

  • Do not enter without paying the required entry fees.
  • Do not litter (e.g. cigarette butts, finger tape).
  • Do not damage or remove vegetation.
  • Do not wander off existing paths.
  • Do not feed wild animals.
  • Do not bolt without the landowner's permission.
  • Bury any toilet paper etc. in a deep hole (>10cm).

Accommodation

De Pakhuys (phone 027 482 1468) offers camping and cottages. It is 26km from Clanwilliam, just over the Pakhuis Pass (second turnoff to the right after the pass). Camping costs R50 per person per night (Sept 2012). The camp site has bathrooms and showers, as well as a communal kitchen (fridge, kettle, stove) and communal braai area with a bar.

Sport / Trad Routes

The sport routes are on large boulders at the bouldering area called Fields of Joy. From the campsite, drive a couple hundred meters back towards the farm house, then take a left turn at the gate (the non-access control one; there is a sign for Fields of Joy) and drive for a few hundred metres more. Park and walk up the steepish hillside to the left, following the stone cairns to the boulders. The walk-in takes about 10 minutes.

Ask permission of the landowners Thys and Mark before bolting any new line.

De pakhuys tick 01.jpg

De pakhuys sundowner 01.jpg


Below: left to right:

  • Facebook [3 bolts, chains] 25, Guy Holwill 2007
    Climbs the crack on the free-standing boulder. The boulder has a tap-like feature on the opposite side (visible from down the hill at the parking area) and is about 5 minutes walk from the 20 and the 19.
  • Unknown 20, Guy Holwill, August 2007
    Up the face on the boulder left of the 19 arete route.
  • Unknown 19, Guy Holwill, August 2007
    Up the arete on the boulder right of the 20.
  • Crack Dealer 18, Kyle Rycroft, June 2008
  • KGB 20, [8 bolts, chains] Graham Shillington, August 2007
    Up the obvious crack feature on the main face to the right of and on the same boulder as the 19 arete and Crack Dealer route.
  • Myspace 27, [8 bolts, chains] Jeremy Samson, August 2007

Bouldering

The topos and original info have been provided by Michael Janata.


The Roadkill Café

A field of big boulders just above the campground. Short walk in, sheltered from the wind and lots of sun makes it a great winter destination. Go to the back of the campsite and find the path about halfway between the braai area and the kitchen, heading right up the hill.


Roughness factor:

  • x huuuaaa, thats rough
  • xx average roughness
  • xxx nice and smooth rock for tired fingers

RoadkillCafe.jpg

RoadkillCafeTopo.png

A1 5B 
BS in hole, move slightly left to good holds, long move to top rail, TOxxx Michael Janata
A2 CHUNK OF SKUNK 5B 
BS on arete, climb up and TO Evan Wiercx
A3 YETI SPAGETTI 6C 
BS under roof, move over lip, then in seam leftwards to xxx Evan Wiercx
A4 4 
BS climb face, TO Michael Janata
A5 COLLIE COLD CUTS 
Evan Wiercx
A6 5C 
BS climb left side of face, TO Michael Janata
A7 MILKING MICE 6B 
BS under roof with big sidepull hueco, climb up to lip and TO Michael Janata
A8 FLAT CAT 6A 
BS on rail, move slightly right to lip and TO xx Michael Janata
A9 PIT BULL POT PIE 6A 
BS on rail, move slightly left to lip and TO xx Michael Janata
B1 ELLIPSIS 7B 
BS in left eye, step into it and move via right eye to TO on right xxx Sean Creman
B2 PROJECT 6Cish
B3 SNAKE N BAKE 6C 
S on edges, move up slightly left, to slopy rail, right to next rail, match, left over xx Michael Janata
B4 TOO SLOW DOE 6B 
Both hands in break, dyno left to next break, match, right on sidepull, TO xxx Michael Janata
B5 NO FEAR DEER 6C 
BS both hands on jug, right to sloper, left over to crimp/layback, right far right to sloper, move straight up to TO xxx Michael Janata
B6
B7 SUMO DELIGHT 7B 
BS on 2 underclings, right up to 2 finger pocket, right again to xx Michael Janata
B8 ROADKILL CAFE 7B+ 
BS right on sidepull, left in break/pocket, right up to pinch/undercling, left to pinch, left again to big hold on lip, match, left to crimp, dyno to top, TO xxx Michael Janata
B9 THUMPER ON THE BUMPER 7B 
BS left on sidepull, right in break/pocket, right to good hold on rail, left to big sidepull, right further left on rail, long move right to little edge, match, TO FLAKED SNAKE xx Michael Janata
B10 FLAKED SNAKE 4 
SS climb via huge fin and rails, climb slightly right to TO xx Michael Janata
B11 RIGOR MORTIS 7B 
BS left in pocket, right on crimp, dyno to jug on right, TO FLAKED xx Michael Janata
B12 NO LUCK BUCK 6A 
SS on good hold in middle of wall, left on top of pillar, match, climb down the break on right, up to jug in next break, up to slopery break, climb left and TO xxx Michael Janat
C1 PROJECT 7Bish 
SS, move right along small rail to big hold, TO further right xx
C2 5B 
SS just right of arete, TO x Michael Janata
C3 5C 
SS on arete, TO x Michael Janata
C4 6B 
BS both hands on undercling, move to lip and TO xx Michael Janata
C5 5B 
SS left hueco, right over lip, TO x Michael Janata
C6 SWIRL SQUIRRL 6B 
SS right hand on sloper on lip, match and dyno to left, TO xxx Michael Janata
C7 PROJECT 7Cish 
SS climb easiest way up middle of wall xxx
C8 CHEAP SHEEP 6A 
BS both hands in rail, move up right to pocket, left up and again to jug, TO xx
C9 SQUISH OF FISH 5C 
SS climb via both cracks to TO xxx Michael Janata
C10 PROJECT 
climb left side of wall, TO 7Aish xxx
C11 5C 
SS climb right side of wall via crimps xx Michael Janata
D1 POT LUCK BUCK 4 
SS climb slab and TO on arete xx Michael Janata
D2 CEDERBERG SUSHI 4 
SS climb crack on slab and TO xx Guy Holwill
D3 RATOVAN 4 
SS climb via crack and sidepulls to TO xx Guy Holwill
D4 4 
SS on arete, right on edge, left up to edge, climb slightly right, TO xxx Michael Janata
D5 ITS A KITTY 5 
SS on arete, right on edge, left up to edge, climb arete, TO xxx Michael Janata
D6 DEAD DONKEY 5 
SS right on sidepull, dyno to TO, move right to TO xxx Michael Janata
D7 6A 
BS on sidepull,move up left to lip, TO xx Guy Holwill
E1 6A 
SS crimp with right, dyno left to jug, to break, TO xxx Michael Janata
E2 PROJECT 7Bish 
xxx
E3 POODLES N NOODLES 6A 
SS right on hold, dyno left to edge, go to break, slightly right through crack to TO xxx Michael Janata
E4 SS both hands on good hold, right in crack, left to break, right on sidepull, left to next break, match, TO through crack xx Michael Janata
E5 3 
SS climb wall xx Michael Janata
E6 PRAIRE DOG PATE 6A 
SS climb wall left of leaning boulder, TO x Michael Janata
E7 SNAKE BAKE 5C 
BS on underclings, climb slightly right and TO xx Michael Janata
E8 POSSUM PIE 2 
SS climb wall just right of YOU KILL, WE GRILL xxx Michael Janata
E9 YOU KILL, WE GRILL 7A+ 
BS both hands in jug, right up to flat hold, move left along rail to jugs, long dyno to hold on lip, TO xx Michael Janata
F1 
both hands in seam, climb vertical crack to TO
F2 
start under crack, traverse left for 2 m and TO via crimps on face
F3 
 ???
F4 6B 
BS on big hold, climb arete xxx
F5
F6 5A 
Climb slab xxx

Fields of Joy

A field of quite big boulders, under a cliff line, laying gently on a platform, just above the cliffs down to the valley. The sandstone almost looks like rough granite, the lines are often big and obvious. Friction is very good. It covers many styles of climbing, from the highball slab to roof climbing. Boulders facing to all kind of directions.

FieldsOfJoyTopo.png

FieldsOfJoyCloseupE,F.png

A1 STACKER 7C 
Klem, Flo, Tom
A2 ALL GOLD 7B 
SS to big slot for both hands, dyno to top, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
A3 BLIND DATE 7A 
Klem, Flo, Tom
A4 STONE FREE 2 
SS climb superb little slab on perfect rock, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
A5 SCHWAMMERL 5B 
SD in big hueco, climb out to chicken heads, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
C1 3 
SS 1m right of arete, climb up and TO xx Michael Janata
C2 5B 
SS just left of arete, TO xx Michael Janata
C3 CIAO BELLA 6A 
xxx Michael Janata
C4 2 
SS follow crack to left. reach up to good seam, TO xx Michael Janata
C5 5C 
SS in crack, go up to edges and to break, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
C6 SNEAK 6C 
SS on big sloper right, jump to next slopers, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
C7 
7B
C8 MANIAC 7B
D1 DAGGA 6B 
SD to side undercling, up to good smoth shaped holds, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
D2 ORGASMIC 6B 
Klem, Flo, Tom
D3 CHICKEN OF BEEF 6A 
SS with sloper, jump to one of the two pockets, mantoe, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
D4 WILDER FUCHS 5B 
SS climb crack, TO (take care for loose rock) xx Klem, Flo, Tom
D5 GAY CHARLY 5C 
SS climb slab with cracks xx Klem, Flo, Tom
D6 ALTER HASE 5A 
SS on edges, go up the slab, kind of groove, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
E1 NEMISIS 3 
SS on little wall, left on sloper, right on crimp, move up left, TO xxx Michael Janata
E2 6A 
SS in break, long move to next break, to jugs, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
E3 IM JULI 7A+ 
xxx Michael Janata
E4 GEGEN DEN WIND 7A 
Originally graded 7B x Klem, Flo, Tom
E5 SPECIAL CUTS 7A 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
E6 MONASTERY 7B 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
E7 KIESL 7A 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
E8 FREE 5C 
SS in gully, climb up, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
E9 REBELLION 5A 
Highball on right side of the wall, by the arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
E10 7B 
Klem, Flo, Tom
E11 SWISS SECRET 7A 
SD crimpy seam both hands, dyno to pocket, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
E12 6A 
SD both hands in big pocket, lean into sidepull, go up, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
E13 6A 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
E14 SINGHA BRAGA 7C 
SS crimp right, jump to pocket left, climb up via crimps, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
E15 PROJECT 
Highball xxx
E16 4 
SS on right hand side of wall, climb via seams straight to TO xx Michael Janata
E17 UNEVEN PULLUP 6A 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
E18 SHIRAZ 7A 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
E19 SUNSET WALL 6B 
SD on rail, move up to lip, TO xx Michael Janata
E20 MYTHOS 7A 
Klem, Flo, Tom
F1 6C 
SS take incut break, jump to edge, long move to top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
F2 THE PRIVILGED 7A 
SD on boulder, climb up arete with awesome holds, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
F3 STANDARD 5A 
SS in pocket, mantle, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
F4 SIANG 7C 
SS pocket right, up to slopers, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
F5 POP CORNER 6A 
SS arete with good holds, TO, HIGHBALL x Klem, Flo, Tom
F6 5C 
SS groove, to breaks, TO, HIGHBALL xx Klem, Flo, Tom
F7 6C 
SD arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
F8 MASS ACTION 6A 
SS slab, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
G1 MACHO KING 7C 
SS on boulder, climb into roof, TO
G2 GRATIS MASSAGE 6C 
SS, reach for crimps, campus, bring foot, go some more crimps, TO
G3 SENSUAL KITTEN 6B 
SS in pocket left, go up to sloper, continue, mantle, TO
G4 6A 
SS reach up to sloper, both hands up to hueco, manto, TO
G5 6A 
SS climb up mushroom holds, manlte, TO
G6 BARACUDA RAIL 7B 
x
I1 project [5ish] 
SS climb very high slab, HIGHBALL (how to get down???) x
I2 NO LATE TENDERS 8A 
xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
I3 project 
start on arete and traverse into NO LATE TENDERS xxx
I4 DIRTY LIES 7A 
Originally graded 7B xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
I5 project 
start on arete and traverse into DIRTY LIES xxx
I6 MAN OF THE DAY 6B 
Climb crack, TO. Bad landing x Klem, Flo, Tom
I7 6B 
Next to tree on big sloper (little ledge), move up on slopy holds, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
I8 6A 
SS on left hueco, to right hueco, mantle + TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
I9 THE PRIVILGED 7A 
SD on boulder, climb up arete with awesome holds, TO, scary x Klem, Flo, Tom
I10 THE FRIDGE 6B 
xx Michael Janata
I11 BELLA VISTA 6C 
xx Michael Janata
I12 BELLA ITALIA 6A 
xx Michael Janata
Funny farm 22 - Trad Scott Noy 2011

To the left of the (Unknown 20, Guy Holwill, August 2007). Depending on your height - I had to jump a little - reach out left for a jug, do a boulder sequence up to a good rail and climb to the top.

The Goddess of 1967 - 29/30 Trad Cody Roth 2009

Start opposite a gnarled yellow wood tree. Boulder up left to a committing dyno, then move right and climb the arete.

Plateau Boulders

PlateauBoulders.png

On the far left side of the whole area, where the cliff lines fade out and a kind of plateau forms, just before everything drops down to the gorge, there are some fine boulders to be found. The boulders are not that big, the landing is very good and each boulders has a handful of problems.

Follow the waterfall walk signs from the campsite. There will be one big gate where you must leave your car, and then another pedestrian gate. Follow the most obvious path until you get to a sign for "Arch/Plateau/Hidden", continue right and the bouldering will appear shortly. The scale of the map is quite large: the distance between areas is tens of metres usually.

1. PRIVATE PROPERTY 6B 
xx Michael Janata
2. DRAGON 6B 
SD Arete, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
3. ESPRESSO 5B 
xx Michael Janata
4. ALI G IN DA HOUSE 6B 
xx Michael Janata
5. BORN INTO STRUGGLE 7C 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
6. HUMAN ENERGY 7B 
Klem, Flo, Tom
7. HAHI CHECKER 2 
SS on break, up the wall, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
8. CREEPER 7A 
SD under little roof, climb up to prow, go to top of groove, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
9. GREY 4 
SS on slab on kind of arete, move to undercling, TO x Michael Janata
10. BANG BOOM BANG 6B 
SD on right holds on rail, go left and up arete, TO x Michael Janata
11. COAL CHAMBER 6C 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
12. GAMELAN 6C 
SD jugs, go up via crimps and break, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
13. RSA 6B 
x Michael Janata
14. BALE 6B 
D same start as GIRL ON OUR MIND, go right into groove, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
15. GIRL ON OUR MIND 6C 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
16. MODELL ROBBER 7B 
Klem, Flo, Tom
17. project (7Bish) 
x
18. POISON DWARF 7B 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
19. JOKE OF THE DAY 6B 
Klem, Flo, Tom
19a. 6C 
Michael Janata
20. BAD BOY FOR LIFE 5C 
SD in middle of boulder, red rock, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
21. ICE, ICE BABY 5C 
SD under arete, climb out arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
22. DESSERT ROSE 6A 
SD same start as ICE, ICE BABY, go left with sloper to jug, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
23. MAN OF THE MOMENT 7A 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
24. UNKNOWN 7A 
move leftwards along rail, TO. Always shady x
25. UNKNOWN 7C 
SD on rail, move up into roof and right, TO. Always shady
26. CAPTAIN CHAOS 4 
SS on jug on black streak, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
27. CAPTAIN FUTURE 5B 
SS right of CAPTAIN CHAOS, on jug, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
28. CAPTAIN HORRIBLE 4 
SS on jug on black streak, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
29. CAPTAIN SPICEMAN 4 
SS right of CAPTAIN HORRIBLE, on jug, up straight, TO xx Michael Janata
30. MANTLE IN YOUR MIND 6B 
SS on lip, mantle, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
31. 4 
SD with both hands on edge in roof, move to lip, TO x
32. CAMPARI 6B 
x Michael Janata
33. CAMPARI ORANGE 6B 
SD like CAMPARI but traverse right into ORANGE and TO x Evan Wiercx
34. ORANGE 6B
SS on big undercling, climb left out of overhang and up, TO xx Michael Janata
35. 5C S
S on big undercling, climb left out of overhang and up, TO xx Michael Janata
36. 4 
SD both hands on rail, move up, TO x Michael Janata
37. DOUBLE WOPPER 7A 
Michael Janata
38. WOPPER 6B 
x Michael Janata
39. LET IT DIE 6C 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
40. FEIST 6C 
SD on sidepull, to jug, long move to next jug, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
41. BLACK VELVET 8A 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
42. project (>7C) 
SD on right, traverse left on low lip on slopers, TO somewhere x Klem, Flo, Tom
43. project (6C-7A) 
SD with both hands on good layback, move right and TO x
44. MINKI 7B 
SS back in roof on side pulls, move out, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
45. LOGIXX 2 
x Michael Janata

Just above the Plateau Boulders on the far left hand side of the whole area. It contains of the Arch Valley and the surrounding problems. Climbing ist mostly on walls but on the left side are some freestanding boulders. Landing is generally very good.

50. THE COOLER 6C 
SD on hueco, go to left side of hueco, go to arete, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
51. BIG EARS 6C 
SD on horns, up to breaks, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
52. 7B 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
53. CONSEQUENT LOOSING 7C 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
54. COOLER SHAKER 5C 
SD on big ledge, go to next big hold, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
55. project (7Cish)
xxx
56. THE SUMMER IS HERE 5A 
xxx Michael Janata
57. WINTER 6A 
xxx Michael Janata
57a xxx 
Michael Janata
57b 
SS as WINTER, move left in rail via huge hole to crack, TO xxx Douglas Ward
58. 6C 
SD on jug, to incut, to jug, up to slopers, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
59. BULLET PROOF 7B 
SD on jug, to next jugs, dyno to sloper (red coloured), TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
60. I BELIEVE I CAN FLY 7C 
SS on crimps to seam, jump up to good sloper, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
61. ENJOY 6B 
SS on arete, climb arete, TO xx Michael Janata
62. ZEN IS ON SALE 6C 
SS big slot to next slot, go slightly right, TO straight
63. DEEP THROAT 7C 
SS with high edges, go to sidepull, big cross over to crack, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
64. CRACK JUNKEY 6B 
SS horizontal break, go up to crack, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
65. CRACK DEALER 7B 
SS up the crack, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
66. MISS CAVE 7B 
SD on rail, go up with jugs, climb black overhanging prow, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
67. ALPINE ROCKER 6A 
SS climb slab and use chimney if you want, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
68. MOJITO 6C 
SD dyno up, match, climb straight, TO xx Michael Janata
69. IN BETWEEN DREAMS 8A 
Klem, Flo, Tom
70. HYPER HYPER 7A
SS on side pulls, follow crack up and right, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
71. GIN TONIC 6B 
Jump start to lip, climb face on left via good edges, TO xxx Michael Janata
72. THE GOOD SEED 7B 
Klem, Flo, Tom
73. GUILLOTINE 6C
SD on big flake (loose), to pocket ( you can look through it), TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
74. DIRECTORS CUNT 7B 
xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
75. ESOTERRORIST 7A
x Klem, Flo, Tom
76. ARCH BABY 7C
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
77. PUSH THE TEMPO 7B 
SD go to holds in crack, dyno to flat top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
78. PUSH THE BUTTONS 7C 
SD feet under roof, go to edges, dyno to top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
79. DAWN WITH WORDS 6C 
xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
80. SEX ETIQUETTE 6C 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
81. MAN OR MACHINE 7C 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
82. ONE WITH THE FREAKS 7A 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
83a 3 
SS climb straight up via sidepulls to TO xx Evan Wiercx
83. POLE POSITION 5C 
xx Klem, Flo, Tom
84. UNDER CONTROL 6B 
x Klem, Flo, Tom
85. HES ON MY MIND 7A 
Klem, Flo, Tom
86. IT WILL DO THE JOB 5C 
SS on slopers, to break, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
87. WINDOW LICKER 6A 
SS on slopers, to slopers, up and left to pocket, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
88. SNEAK 5B 
SS on edges, to break, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

Photos

Flat Cat 6A at the Roadkill Café
Bouldering at the Roadkill Café
Ellipsis 7B at the Roadkill Café