Girl Next Door 24
Girl Next Door **** (The Castle, left turret) 164m; 24
Climb the first pitch of No More Bells or another route to the big upper ledge. The route starts roughly in the middle of the wall from the upper ledge, to the right of “No More Bells”. It crosses “No More Bells” near that route's second stance and climbs the rest of the wall between that route and “In Your Honour”. Right of centre there is a high, rectangular recess (yellow at the top), capped by a roof. On the face to the left of the recess, and right of a prominent left-facing corner, there are a number of vertical cracks. The route takes the middle crack, which blanks out about 15 meters up.
Pitch 1: 36m, 19. Climb the crack and continue for a meter or two after it blanks out to reach a rail, then move right into cracks Continue up to a roof, pull through and then follow the right hand crack line. Avoid the slightly messy recessed part of the crack higher up by moving rightwards onto a very featured face. Stance at the top of this below the roof.
Pitch 2: 40m, 21. Climb the break on the right hand side of the roof above and slightly left of the stance (Bells and Whistles climbs the crack 2 meters to the right) on good holds leading into a crack in a leftward facing corner, and then up easier ground onto a platform below the next steep section. Traverse left for 4 meters, up in a corner and then diagonally left on small holds to the rail below the steep rock. On the left there is a yellow recess flanked by 2 parallel cracks. Climb these, moving right through the small roof. Follow the break above for about 8 meters to a small ledge. This pitch can be divided into two.
Pitch 3: 28m, 21. Climb the finger crack continuation of the break and then up easier ground above up to a ledge below the roofs. Traverse left for about 12 metres to the end of the large ledge.
Pitch 4: 30m, 24. From the left hand edge of the ledge, climb 3 meters up the break (shared with “In Your Honour” before it traverses left and up). Continue straight up through the slightly overhanding corner (strenuous). Follow the break, moving rightwards at about 15 meters and then straight up again through steep rock to stance on a small sloping ledge below where the wall steepens significantly, to the large roof at the top.
Pitch 5: 30m, 19. Make an airy rightward traverse in the good rail 1 meter above the ledge out to a good prong and continue traversing around the corner for about 3 meters. Climb the face above on a flake diagonally rightwards up to a rail and bush. Climb into the large crack on the right, up for 2 meters and then onto the face to the right of the large crack, which is climbed straight up to the top.
FA: Johann Lanz & Robert Zipplies; April 2011.