Hidden Kloof (bouldering, sport and trad)

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Hidden Kloof currently off-limits

Please see the following link for details - http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69524&t=15729

Routes that exist but that don't have a place yet

These 2 irregular descriptions are assumed to be from the bottom of the kloof looking upward. The routes have been added but may be placed in the wrong place, so these descriptions are kept till confirmation is made.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
The Glazed Doughnut Monster 17 Traditional FA. Henning van Rensburg June 1991 The route is outside the kloof on the right hand side. Go past first access path (scramble) to kloof. Follow the dry stream. Route is on the right hand side of the stream. Climb the obvious crack to the right of the roof. Traverse left underneath the roof. Follow next crack left of roof to the top (exit). Fair protection.
Mother Hits you for Nothing 15 Traditional FA. Henning van Rensburg June 1991 Located on the right hand side of the kloof. Carry on past Doughnut Monster until you find the descent ramp with arete on the left had side. Route is on the right hand side of the ramp. Start right of the obvious crack in front of the huge rock. where the crack opens traverse left and follow the next crack to the top. When around 2m from the top move right to exit on jugs. Mild protection.

Hidden Kloof Route List

Routes described from downstream upward

The kloof has been subdivided into 3 sectors, to allow for future development:

  • Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.
  • Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the double ramp with the big tree at the top of the ramps. This sector has both gentle, vertical and inclined climbing potential.
  • Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with the big tree at the top. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.


True Left (West Wall)

True left is the left hand side of the kloof when looking downstream.


The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right. Stinging nettle was removed upstream off routes and has not been removed from the lower area as time ran out on the last mission. If you walk past it, note its stinging nettle. If you want to help out, add the nettle to the stack of branches, which will be removed in time. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
The Pink Energy Orchid 26/7b FA: Grant Murray. ReBB: Dirk Smith, 2015. Route begins at a half dead tree, runs up the right of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Sustained and wandering. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Add Name> Has not been opened potentially? BB: ? ReBB: Guenther Bargon, 2015. Runs up the left of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Might be a project?

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the double ramp marked by a big tree at the top of the ramps. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Troy 24/7a BB: Grant Murray. FA: Grant Murray. 20m upstream of The Pink Energy Orchid. Climbs the face past 4 bolts and the worlds most bomber R8 placement. This is the first line in the Middle Sector. NEEDS REBOLTING
Middle Aged Crisis 26/7b 8+chains FA: Stewart Middlemiss. 1992/93. Rebolted late 2016. 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts seemed newer than the rest and was not replaced. May need a bolt between 4th and 5th.
Demons of Desire 25/7a+ 10+chains BB: Grant Murray. FA: Grant Murray. Winter 1991. ReBB: Andrew Pedley, 2015. The obvious and stunning leaning groove. Belay off the bolt on the ramp. Feels traddy so even if you climb 30, prepare to struggle. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware
Phantom Bolter 24/7a 11+Chains FA: Stewart Middlemiss, September 1991. BB: Ebert Nel. 2015. This is an awesome line following the easiest looking line above the ramp. The route was opened on gear by Stewart Middlemiss in 1992/93, but was bolted in 2015 so that more climbers can safely benefit from it. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Open Project 9+chains BB: Ebert Nel 2017. Free game, holds arent chalked, probably less than 30. Untried. Untested, but it goes easily.
Rising Star 28/7c 12+chains BB: Andrew Pedley 2015. FA. Andrew Pledley. 2015. Amazing to think this one was hiding for so many years, just like Homo Naledi. It’s big and steep and will blow your mind and your forearms. Starts at the top of the ramp in the Middle Sector. Belay is easiest from the stream. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
The Vanguard 29/7c+ 9+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel, 2015. Starts at a base under a jagged three step roof with three bolts of super sequential powerful climbing into six bolts of very sequential technical climbing. The falls are cleaner the harder you try. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Needs name/name finding> Traditional + 1 bolt Classified as a traditional line by the single ring bolt. 'Bolt needs replacing
Kiss of the Banshee 10+Chains BB: Grant Murray. ReBB: Alex Bester, 2015. FA: Grant Murray (91-93?) /James Barnes (2016) Follows the line of bolts up the right of the dark scoop. The line goes all the way to the top though the original ended at the lower chains.
Enigma Open Project 10+Chains BB: Ebert Nel, 2015. Eight bolts up the left of a dark scoop with 3 bolts to the chains. Amazing moves, potentially a king line here. An open proj to create psych. The moves go straight up. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Needs name/name finding> Fully bolted, NEEDS REBOLTING. Just left of the dark scoop and just right of the white wall.
<Needs name/name finding> Partially bolted, maybe traditional? NEEDS REBOLTING? Just left of the dark scoop and just right of the white wall.

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with a tree ontop. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof. There is a grassy ramp in the lower part of this sector on the on the true left.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
<Needs name/name finding> Traditional Just below the grassy ramp. Is characterized by a "stuck" red cam. Could potentially be The Glazed Doughnut Monster. Contact MCSA to fill the gap.
. Legs to heaven open project BB: Ian Guest. On top of the grassy ramp. Long line with a halfway chains. Marked with 8mm bolts NEEDS REBOLTING.
Kiss my axe 29/7c+ BB: Richard Lord. FA: Richard Lord, 1992/93. Ontop of the grassy ramp. Slightly overhanging broken crack system with a karate chop signature movement NEEDS REBOLTING.
The Glazed Doughnut Monster 17/5c Traditional + 1 bolt (No Chains) FA. Henning van Rensburg June 1991 Ontop of the grassy ramp. Marked by a chopped first bolt that has poorly been covered up by grey epoxy. Bolt under small roof with the line going up and left of the roof. Just left of Kiss my Axe. Climb the obvious crack (left of the roof) to the right of the roof. Traverse left underneath the roof. Follow next crack left of roof to the top (exit). Fair protection. This could be Mother Hits you for Nothing. Contact MCSA to fill the gap.
Mother hits you for nothing 15/5b Traditional FA. Henning van Rensburg, June 1991 Past the grassy ramp. Past the spearhead like boulder (Mysterio, 6C). Descent ramp with arete on the left had side. Route is on the right hand side of the ramp. This route makes its way up an open book. Bolts have been chopped by Charles Edelstein, after Ian Guest bolted it. Has an old bolted line to the left of it. Start right of the obvious crack in front of the huge rock. Where the crack opens traverse left and follow the next crack to the top. When around 2m from the top move right to exit on jugs. Mild protection. This open book is potentially not Mother hits you for nothing. Contact MCSA to fill the gap.
<needs a name/ name finding> BB: Ian Guest. FA: Ian Guest, 90s. Past the grassy ramp. Past the spearhead like boulder (Mysterio, 6C). Bolted line left of open book (Mother Hits you for Nothing that might not be Mother hits you for nothing). NEEDS REBOLTING




True Right (East Wall)

True right is the right hand side of the kloof when looking downstream.


The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There is amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Fields of Destruction 23/6c+ FA: John Orrock, June 1991. NEEDS REBOLTING Route is on the wall opposite Pink Energy Orchid. Climbs the face/thin crack past 3 bolts. Exits up scoop right of 3rd bolt.
Baptism of Fire 21/6b+ FA: John Orrock, June 1991. NEEDS REBOLTING, Also opposite Pink Energy Orchid and follows a crack that goes up and tends left past a bolt (crux). Exit on jugs. Rap chains on ledge.

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the slab ramp marked by the next big tree at the top of the ramp. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
En root 17/5c 6+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel, 2015. Starts on the spiky boulder, climbing over the root system and over another larger root. Fun root to climb;) MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Off root 17/5c 5+Chains BB: Hannes de Meyer. FA: Hannes de Meyer, 2015. Just to the right of the root system and plants on the wall. First bolt will be added 11/10/2015. Still has a few small loose rocks on it, will be cleaned soon. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Hide and Seek 20/6b 10+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Tyron Hopf. 2015. Follows a gully stepladder up to the 2nd bolt, followed by some crimpy madness and jug hauling for days. Check out the platform above the chains. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
Mystic Messiah 20/6b 9+Chains BB: Liz Makovini. FA: Liz Makovini, 2015. This route is opposite The Vanguard (3 meters down stream on the true right). Follows a slopy line with some really amazing controlled movements and spectacular crimping climbing toward the top.
Double or Nothing 20/6b 14+Chains BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel. 2015. Directly opposite Enigma. This line has awesome juggy climbing with intricate movements spicing things up a little. Lower off chains have been provided to clean with a 60m (This is not a multipitch!!!). A 70 meter rope gets the climber down to the ledge where the first bolt is clipped, if the belayer joins him on the ledge. Please tie a knot in the end of your rope to avoid accidents from happening. Really worth the mission.
<Needs name/name finding> Traditional + 1 bolt Just right of Double or nothing. Classified as a traditional line by the single ring bolt in the dark section with a lot of tack at the "chains". 'Bolt needs replacing and "chains" are "24" years old

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with the big tree ontop. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof. Has the grassy staircase that provides a steep exit on the true right.

# ROUTE NAME GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
A Pinch of Pixie Dust 26/7b Natural+bolts FA. Mike Cartwright, September 1991. Lurking at the top end of the main part of the kloof are some roofs on the right. This line cranks through the center of the ugliest one. 3 bolts. Traditional line, marked by bolts on the lip of a roof, near the top of the kloof. Bolts not replaced yet. Permission for full bolting has been granted on the condition of "not paving over the old route".
Helter Skelter


15 8+Chains BB: Liz Makovini. FA: Liz Makovini 2015 Starting a few meters downstream of the grassy staircase.

Hidden Kloof Problem List

These are the boulder problems of Hidden Kloof. Photos will be added soon.

The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.

# PROBLEM NAME GRADE Style RATING OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the double ramp marked by a big tree at the top of the ramps. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# PROBLEM NAME GRADE Style RATING OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the double ramp with the big tree ontop. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.

# PROBLEM NAME GRADE Style RATING OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Mysterio 6C Bouldering FA. Ebert Nel, 2015. Orange spearhead like boulder, with ripple marks all over, that cannot be missed. Starts as a sit start bottom right, moving out left and then up the middle of the boulder.