+/-10 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 5 to 6a. 4 Single Pitch Trad Route, Grade 17. 5min walk up to crag. Sandstone
Sport Rack. If you want to climb 'Crack of Dawn' you'll need a trad rack. 50m rope
This is a great crag for beginners, with a few challenging routes for others. Crack of Dawn is a splendid crack climb for practicing trad climbing (dont anybody ever bolt it please!!) A walk up to the top of the crag allows you clip the ring bolts to setup topropes for climbs without any lead bolts (be carefull clipping the top anchors, we recommed a safety line when doing this).
Located above Boyes Drive. Take the M3 from Cape Town. Get onto Boyes Drive. Park on the side of the road (Boyes Drive). A short uphill walk gets you to the crag. The crag can be identified by the pinnacle that stands away from the rock.
This crag is best visited in the early morning / late afternoon as it gets direct sun during the midday and can get extremely warm. The crag generally dries out quickly after rain (one or two full days).
LAKESIDE PINNACLE TOPO: (From left to right)
- 1. Puddy Twat - 19 (4B) T Lourens
- 2. Spotty Dog - 17 (4B) B Higgens
- Crack of Dawn - 17 (Natural) There are anchors at the top of this route *Please note this route is NEVER to be bolted!!
- 3. Donalds Crack - 16 (4B) T Lourens
- 4. Mickey Moose - 17 (4B) T Lourens
- 5. Goofy's Gaf - 18 (4B) W Koen
- 6. Moaning Minnie - 17 (5B) C Howell
(Pinnacle Area labelled in photo)
- 6. Undercling Route - 19 (8B) Unknown
- Unnamed - 19 (Natural) Unknown - climb the crack left behind the pinnacle
- 7. Pinnacle Route - 17 (3B) Unknown
- 8. Who Knows? - 18 (6B) Unknown
- 9. Dogmatix - 16 (7B) C Howell (Combines the bottom half of Who Knows with the top half of Magic Potion)
- 10. Magic Potion - 21 (8B) C Howell
The Asterix Wall
- 11. Asterix - 15 (7B) C Howell
- 12. Obelix - 16 (7B) C Howell
- 13. Getafix - 17 (7B) C Howell
- 14. Cacophonix - 18 (Natural) B Russell 17 Dec 2013
Start up the overhanging wall thru great rails up the bulging then face move left into finger-crack finish
There is a short, aesthetic, NW facing wall perched above the sport routes, easily visible from the road. Scramble up on the left to reach the base.
- Swirling Salmon 16 (N)
Climb straight up the steep grey face also using flakes and ears on the right.
FA: R. Halsey 8/4/11
- Bolts for routes 1,6,7,8,9 and 10 sponsored by the MCSA and S.A.C.S. Junior School Climbing Club.
- Photo & Topo info supplied by Charles Howell