Lekker Time 16 ****+
Start View the topo on the photograph. The route traverses in from the right and the start is marked with a cairn.
- Pitch 1 : 40m (15)
Climb up a shallow left facing corner to a ledge. Walk right a few metres and climb steep, juggy rock tending slightly left. Belay on a small ledge below a short steep orange face. (Or start straight up and pull through the overhang (16))
- Pitch 2 : 20m (17) Climb the short face and find your way more or less straight up to a left facing recess. A small nut protects the next move. Climb up under the small overhang and search for a small but good hold that you use with your left hand to step round right onto the arete. Continue to a ledge with blocks under a large overhang. (The "small hold" move can be avoided by fighting your way past a yellow wood tree on the left.)
- Pitch 3 25 (17) Climb up and head right to the arete. Climb till you are level with the overhang. If you can't or won't fist jamb you are going to find the next move hard. Then continue more easily to a large ledge and belay at the base of a massive block. You are now on top of the pillar.
- Pitch 4 : 25m (16) Move your belay by walking around to the back of the block on its right. Climb up and head diagonally left first on cleanish grey rock but heading for the darker lichen covered rock. Find somewhere to stance after about 25m as pitch 4 and 5 combined is 70m.
- Pitch 5 : 40m (17) Climb carefully on gnarly lichen covered rock (but positive holds) heading left! Do not be tempted to go straight up as it is chossy. Stance at the obvious ledge below a right facing corner system.
- Pitch 6 : 45m (17) Climb 3m or so carefully on juggy holds but swing left 2 metres or so before the overlap above. Going straight up is harder but there is a medium size cam placement above you that you may want to use before stepping left. Once you place the cam reverse a move or two and then swing left. Continue up clean steep juggy cracks to belay before the final overhangs on a large block.
- Pitch 7 : 30m (16) Climb up and right to the notch. Crank up and then move left to a point where the overhang is at its smallest. Be careful about using extenders on your pro so as to not incur drag. Climb up and then diagonalright to the skyline on slabby rock. Continue up the crack and find your way to a grassy ledge.
FA: C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl April 2014
(See Topo on photograph)
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 3 or 4 abseils.
Walk horizontally right and a bit down for about 100m along a ledge system capped by an overhang. Where the overhang ends look down to see a grey square shaped flat block where there is a thread.
- 1. Abseil about 40m to a sling point.
- 2. Abseil about 32m or so to the next sling point on a small recessed ledge.
- 3. Abseil about 18m or so the next sling point and hex or continue to the ground if you have 60m ropes.
- 4. Abseil to the ground with fifties or all the way to the drip with sixties.