Lower Tonquani (trad)
Access
This is also an MCSA owned kloof and is the continuation of Upper Tonquani going downstream. Permits should be obtained - see the MCSA page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the MCSA for more access details.
Routes/ Gradings
This is a long section of the kloof with 132 natural routes. The climbs are mostly multi-pitch natural lines. These routes see grades from 7 to 26. Some 90m and higher climbs can be found in the area where Cedarberg intersects Tonquani.
Aspect
There is plenty of water and moving up and down the kloof usually results in you getting wet. Climbing is good all year round.
Notes
The access traverse above the pools between Upper and Lower Tonquani (C) is over polished rock and is hazardous to inexperienced parties. The lower meet point is at the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction. The longest climbs are in the area of the Cedarberg junction with climbs of up to 90m. The rock is generally excellent and water is always available.
Route guide
MCSA site - Lower Tonquani kloof
New routes
The Huber Guns 18 *** [N]
Scramble up Dark Gulley until able to traverse right onto a ledge with large squat grey pinnacle on it. Belay here.
1. 18, 35m Scramble/climb up the easy corner above the pinnacle until able to step right onto the large ledge beneath the imposing steep red face. Climb up on the right then step back left to the base of the main face. Climb this directly to an obvious traverse line that leads to a small ledge on the left arête. Climb the arête to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle and Nic Grech-Cumbo, 2016.
Descent: Rap from a tree down Dark Gulley
Geomancer 28 R ***** [N]
A divination on rock. 30 metres of dream quality well protected moves ending with a boulder finale. Big falls can be enjoyed safely on this route. Takes a rising line on up the obvious leaning wall on the true right (east) side of the kloof, starting 20-30 m above the kloof base – access is best by an easy ab down the ramp of Cannon Fodder (10) approx 50 m downstream of the junction with Cedarberg kloof. An easy 15 minute stroll from Utopia. You can see Geomancer from the top looking upstream from the top of the Canon Fodder slab. With a spare rope abseil off an obvious big tree on a flat ledge/block at the top of the Canon Fodder corner, down the slab to a perched belay about 10 m above a massive (metres across) chockstone. The climb starts off the slab beside a very white niche. Use the ab rope as anchor, can also place 2 pieces on slab (big nut in cubby hole to hang off. Leader should place a high piece (red camalot) in corner crack to protect first move, along with a bomber small cam and nut in small slot on the right wall that can reached (just) by stemming. Make hard moves to pass this gear to gain a corner with stemming rests. Move up the corner until you reach a point where there is a wicked slopy handrail just around the arete to left (place high gear in corner before you go left) – reach the rail, cutloose and campus left then up with difficulty before you can step left to a jug rest. Gather you gear and forearms for the next section of sustained face climbing to a tricky hand-jam and bomber gear below the steep headwall. Perfect nut and purple BD cam by the jam give all the confidence needed –blast up right to a huge jug then up crimps (crux) and move slightly left, last small cam before the ledges. Run-out but totally safe, just go for it! Gets shade until 1-2 ish. Can lower down the line (long sling on massive block at top + medium nut) and get back to belayer on a 60 m rope, clean the route lowering off then once back down scramble back up the slab to get out. Take lots (some doubles) of small to medium small cams and nuts.
FA: Andrew Pedley, sometime in 2020.
