Maverick Crag

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There are eight routes in the new Cape Peninsula Select guidebook by Tony Lourens.

Amendments:
1. The Marlin Boon has been down-graded from 26 to 25.


The routes below have been added since the guide was published.


Crash of the Titan (24)

Start: 2m left of Maverick from the top of a stack of blocks.
Pitch 1. 20m (21) Climb straight up through a steep bulge with several horizontal rails. Cross No Country for Old Men (P1) under a small, capped recess and then pull up left into a peapod feature. Continue up the crack to a stance on a platform.
Pitch 2. 30m (24) Head straight up to a roof, pass this on the right and then left under the next roof. Continue straight up vertical cracks and flakes to below the large overhang system. Move up and left onto a small pillar. Fiddle in some gear and then head steeply up and right over space aiming for a rail below the next horizontal roof. Continue right until the roof terminates, where you take the first break up and left to the ledge, with in situ abseil point.
FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Aug 2013.

Bohemian Eels (25/26?)

Start: 8m left of Jokerman.
Pitch 1. 15m (25/26?) Scramble up a short pillar with a large square block on top. Climb about 1.5m up to a rail then traverse right 2m to a finger crack though the roof. Crank up to a large layback hold and then up to the next roof. Traverse left to a platform. Move up and right a few meters to a stance by a tiny shrub on a small ledge (good gear in thin rail up and left). Concensus grading needed.
Pitch 2. 20m (19) From the stance head up and right, passing a tiny overhang on its right, to a larger roof. Pull through this, past a layback, to another roof on the right (level with Jokerman abseil). Step left and pull up into a tiny corner, then pull up and right to the vertical hand crack, which is followed to a small platform on a prow. The abseil from in situ anchor is exactly 30m.
FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, 2013.

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