Maverick Crag

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There are eight routes in the new Cape Peninsula Select guidebook by Tony Lourens.

Amendments:
1. The Marlin Boon has been down-graded from 26 to 25.

MaverickRDwiki.jpg

1. No Country For Old Men (23), 2. Maverick (23), 3. Unforgiven (24), 4. Walk the Line (23), 5. Shock Treatment (22), 6. The Marlin Boon (25), 7. Jokerman (23),

8. Joko Man (22), 9. Crash of the Titan (24), 10. Swordfish Trombone (22), 11. Bohemian Eels (26?). Topo: R. Halsey


The routes below have been added since the guide was published.


Crash of the Titan (24)

Start: 2m left of Maverick from the top of a stack of blocks.
Pitch 1. 20m (21) Climb straight up through a steep bulge with several horizontal rails. Cross No Country for Old Men (P1) under a small, capped recess and then pull up left into a peapod feature. Continue up the crack to a stance on a platform.
Pitch 2. 30m (24) Head straight up to a roof, pass this on the right and then left under the next roof. Continue straight up vertical cracks and flakes to below the large overhang system. Move up and left onto a small pillar. Fiddle in some gear and then head steeply up and right over space aiming for a rail below the next horizontal roof. Continue right until the roof terminates, where you take the first break up and left to the ledge, with in situ abseil point.
FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, Aug 2013.

Bohemian Eels (26?)

Start: 8m left of Jokerman.
Pitch 1. 15m (26?) Scramble up a short pillar with a large square block on top. Climb about 1.5m up to a rail then traverse right 2m to a finger crack though the roof. Crank up to a large layback hold and then up to the next roof. Traverse left to a platform. Move up and right a few meters to a stance by a tiny shrub on a small ledge (good gear in thin rail up and left). Concensus grading needed.
Pitch 2. 20m (19) From the stance head up and right, passing a tiny overhang on its right, to a larger roof. Pull through this, past a layback, to another roof on the right (level with Jokerman abseil). Step left and pull up into a tiny corner, then pull up and right to the vertical hand crack, which is followed to a small platform on a prow. The abseil from in situ anchor is exactly 30m.
FA: R. Halsey & D. Steyn, 2013.