This is a multi pitch trad climbing area, grades 14 - 26. Approximately 20 min walk up to crag. The crag gets shade in the afternoon and is a good winter venue as it dries out quickly. There are excellent toprope problems above the tea cave.
- 1 Getting there
- 2 Descent
- 3 New routes
- 3.1 Sector A
- 3.2 Sector B
- 3.3 Sector C
- 3.4 Sector D
- 4 Route Info
Take M3 from Cape Town. Get onto Boyes Drive. The crag is located on Boyes Drive, just around the corner from the Lakeside Pinnacle. Park just before the large sandstone boulder on Boyes Drive (not far from one of the turnoffs back down to the main road. The path starts just left of the boulder.
To the left of the tea cave is a series of brown faces broken by broad ledges. Some oaf has painted large letters on one of them so it is impossible to mistake the basic line. When you get to the top, walk left and come down the ridge (as above)
There are some tat rap stations spotted around too.
Sectors are named as per the current guidebook: Cape Peninsula Select
Some tat anchors have been added to the area to make the single pitch routes more accessible. Given the proximity to sea, check wires/biners for corrosion.
Original image from Peninsula Rock Volume 1 by Tony Lournes and Richard Behne. Used with permission.
A. Zooty Fruity (20) *** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Feb 2020)
B. Apple Streaker (19) *** R. Halsey & M. Beaumont (Jan 2020)
C. Pudding Pop (16) ** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Feb 2020)
D. Orange Maid (19) *** R. Halsey rope solo (Mar 2020)
E. Neapolitan (20) *** R. Halsey & R. Strate (Mar 2020)
F. Paddle Pop (21)**** R. Halsey & M. Beaumont (Jan 2020)
G. Choc-o-lina (18) ** R. Halsey & M. Beaumont (Jan 2020)
H. Gattysburg Finish (15)*** M. Beaumont & R. Halsey (Jan 2020) (extension of Only Fools and Horses)
Jungle Oats (22) ****
A long, satisfying journey with demanding sections.
Start as for Fantasy Factory but tend slightly right though the low roof and straight to the ledge. Continue straight, passing the first roof on the left, and then directly up passing two horizontal breaks (in this section there are some ancient bolts to the right from an abandoned project). At the next ledge, continue straight up a wide recess and though a weakness at the next overlap on the left. Navigate the centre of the final face, tending right at the top to a final crank through a roof to a ledge. Abseil tat to the left.
FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate (Jul 2019)
Jungle Oats takes on the bown ampitheatre direct, rap tat in situ.
The Big Four Oh (19) ***
Start as per There is Life in the Old Dog Yet.
Pitch 1: 30m, 15 Straight up though a split projection and over the next small roof. Continue more or less straight to a small ledge a few meters below the bushy ledge.
Pitch 2. 20m, 11 Straight up and slight left to the big ledge. Stance below and left of a half circle shaped block on the underside of the low overhang.
Pitch 3. 8m 17 Pull up to the hand rail formed but the semi-circular block on the underside of the overhang and use this to pull through to good holds above. Straight up to the ledge and traverse a few meters right to the stance with Snap.
Pitch 4. 15m 19. Climb the steep prow type feature to the right of the brown crack on Fiddler on the Roof. Pull up to the large left point prong, then continue straight to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate (July 2020)
Ocean Gifts (19) ***
Some good steep sections, but the start is a bit runout – take care.
Start just right of Dynamo Deltoid.
Pitch 1: 35m, 19 Up the brown rock ~2m to the right of Dynamo Deltoid. Pull into a very narrow recess that is almost on the edge of the wall that forms a blunt arete (a tad run out here). Up to a ledge below a roof. Pull up and right and traverse ~2m to the right over the nose. Continue up easily, then a bit right to an easy crack up a face. Stance at the top.
Pitch 2. 30m, 13 Find your way easily up to a short wall, and follow the series of flakes on light brown panel (just left of a small overlap). Continue easily up to the big ledge and pull up in the vague grey corner to a ledge (as for Snap). Traverse left to Fiddler on the Roof’s crack, then another 3m left to stance.
Pitch 3. 15m, 19 Pull up steeply on the good, chunky holds through the roof up to a finger rail. Pull through the next mini overlap and then step right and up through the vague V-shape to easier ground. Tend right to the top.
FA: R. Halsey (rope solo, Aug 2020)
Left to right: The Big Four Oh, Ocean Gifts (dotted line)
There is a rudimentary rap line near Not Just a Pretty Face, but it needs improving with biners on tat points etc.
Jelly Fish Face (19) **
A fun section on the headwall.
P1:~40m, 17 Start up Not Just a Pretty Face until a small ledge. Pull through the small roof and step right. Follow a series of small recesses that are to the left of the main fault and belay on a the ramp about 8m below the roof above.
P2: 25m, 19 Head up and slight right to reach the roof. Pull through this and establish on the face above. Follow straight to the top on the nice headwall.
FA: R. Halsey, R. Strate & M. Thilo (Aug 2019)
Reaching for the Sun (23?) ***
A very straight line, but the crux is very height dependant, with small gear.
Start ~3m right of Crackle’s original start.
Pitch 1: 25m, 17. From a hand rail, pull up a vertical jam crack and continue up into the corner of Crackle. Follow the main crack line on the left side of roof, but where Crackle traverses off right, continue up the crack. Straight up to a narrow ledge on the left where the crack peters out. Be careful of a large, loose block perched near the top of the crack.
Pitch 2. 18m, 17. Up a short face to an undercut left facing corner. Pull up and right on the right wall using narrow rails to establish on the face above. Easily up to a ledge.
Pitch 3. 25m 23?. Up over some bulges to a standing space below the roof. There are micro cams (black alien or smaller) and some small offset wires on the rounded lip – if you can reach them. It is only a few moves to the narrow right facing corner over the roof, but likely significant harder for anyone under 6 foot given the lack of other hand and feet holds below the rounded lip. Continue straight up on past a small ledge on left to a vague vertical crack to the top of the crag.
FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate (June 2020)
Left to right: Jelly Fish Face, Reaching for the Sun.
Descent: There is a a good rap line down The Energy Vampire that makes climbing multiple routes in this sector easy.
Gaining the to upper ledge To access the top, steep single pitch routes, there are a few options in the old Peninsula Rock Vol. 1 guidebook. Seeing as this is out of print, here is a suggested combo pitch:
Take either break through the roof left of Some Like it Hot. Head straight up (passing the next overlap on the right side) to the ledge. Here, use pitch 3 of The Energy Vampire to get to the neat (but Dassie soiled) ledge below the main course pitches. This can all be done as one long pitch from the ground with 60m ropes. Using an easier option left of The Energy Vampire pitch reduces the access route grade to about 15.
Super Charger (24) ****
A single pitch with a burly crux in a great position.
Pitch 1: 18m, 24 Start up a wide crack below the blunt arete forming the left side of the steep top section of the crag. Pull up into a short layback crack and up to a rail. Traverse right ~2m and then up to the next hand rail. Traverse right another ~2m and up to the roof. The Energy Vampire takes the right break, whereas this route pulls out left into a steep crack. A few strenuous moves gains the final face to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & G. Bird (July 2020)
The Energy Vampire (23) *****
An excellent, steep route. An obvious line, that was possibly overlooked as the first and last pitch look harder than they are. The final pitch takes the break through the roof to the left of the big horizontal flake on Morning After Cocktails.
Start: More or less beneath the middle of the long, low roof to the left of Some Like it Hot. Just above the roof are two old pitons - most likely from an aid foray in a bygone era. The first pitch pulls through the roof at the break to the left of these pitons.
Pitch 1: 20m, 22 Follow the left side of a large flake on the slabby face to the roof. Rail right and then pull up to up to a large undercling at the lip of the roof (#4 Camalot recommended). Pull up and left to gain a right projecting fin. Pull up to the next horizontal break, and traverse ~1.5m right until above to crack up on good holds to gain a small platform below and a bit right of the left facing corner crack above.
Pitch 2. 25m, 15 Up the corner crack and straight up the face above to a tat rap anchor (rope thread point). Head slightly right to belay at the base of the corner system just left of where the Some Like it Hot pitch goes.
Pitch 3. 10m, 18 Climb the layback crack and into a narrowing recess above. At the top step right and belay on a small platform.
Pitch 4: 20m 23 Up and right to where it is possible to pull up to the wide rail under a bulge. Traverse left ~2m to a good rest spot. Straight up over some bulging sections to a rail under the roof. Traverse ~2m left to where a rail leads out under the final roof section. Fight through this into the steep layback crack above. Another few meters straight up to the rap anchor at the top of the crag.
FA: R. Halsey & R. Strate (June 2020)
Honourable/Dishonourable Discharge(25) ****
A single pitch aerial bar fight.
The main feature on the route is the two parallel roof cracks on each side of a sunken section of the roof. These are a few meters to the left of there Darkness on the Edge of Town finishes.
Pitch 1: 15m, 25. From the stance (where the final pitch of Morning After Cocktails also starts), head up and right to a chimney that leads to the base of the roof. Commit to the right hand crack and proceed with effort to a stance just over the lip. Jam gloves recommended.
FA: G. Bird & R. Halsey (Aug 2020)
Juice Kaboose (19) ***
Start just left of Neighbourhood Threat.
Pitch 1: 50m, 17 Basically the pitch goes directly up the face to what looks like a hairline crack (from the ground) several meters left of Neighbourhood Threat. Just right of this hairline crack is a flake type feature that may be where Tornado goes. After the thin section, head up and slightly left on easy ground to reach a narrow ledge. Above is a bulging brown roof, with a left tending diagonal gash on the left (which is above a block). Stance on the ledge in a position a bit down and right of the block.
Pitch 2. 30m, 19 Head up to the block and pull though into the face above using the diagonal gash. Continue up and left to narrow ledge. Pull up into the bottomless corner above (with a vegetated ledge to the right, where Life During Wartime goes). Traverse left to pull around the left side of the roof). At the next roof (with Darkness on the Edge of Town taking the left break), traverse right ~3m and then up a grey ramp to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & G. Bird (July 2020)
Marsupial (19) ***
Single pitch from the ledge running across Sector D. Could be an alternate finch to Juice Kaboose.
Pitch 1: 35m, 19. Start directly a thin crack running though the lowest roof, just left of a long horizontal flake (the old route Tornado goes under the flake and out right). Climb to the roof and squirm along the top of the flake until able to pull up and left. Easily up to a steep section in dark brown rock with big holds. After this, easy ground on grey slab to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & G. Bird (Aug 2020)
Left to right: Super Charger, The Energy Vampire, Honourable/Dishonourable Discharge, Juice Kaboose, The Marsupial (dotted line)
The crag is in Peninsula Rock Volume 1 (out of print) by Tony Lournes and Richard Behne or Cape Peninusula Select by Tony Lourens, published in 2013.
- Great Sloth /20 15m
- Wasted Direct /21 37m
- All Bran /12 74m
- Joker in the Pack /22 71m
- Muesli /19 75m
- Cornflake /20 30m
- No Name Brand /14 97m
- Snap /16 73m
- Missing in Action /18 76m
- Fool on the Hill /19 96m
- Not Just a Pretty Face /13 127m
- Jam Up and Jelly Tight /18 78m
- Crackle /16 98m
- Dancing on the Ceiling /25 20m
- Agrippa /20 108m
- Understairs /14 82m
- Dilettante /18 98m