National Road Routes

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Bella Vista These routes flank Donkerkloof, and seem to be sparsely placed.

Bella Vista * F2

H. Graafland, E. van der S Lots, A. Schoon 1958

"Looks good from far, but is far from good!"

Start: This route lies up the predominantly disjointed (Stepped to the left in the middle) and sheer-looking buttress on Hugenot, about halfway between the northern skyline and the central buttress climbs.

A 20 minute walk up an easy slope from the Road brings you to the base of the buttress. The route is to the right of the red overhangs, behind a solitary indigenous tree.

Pitch 1. 8m (C) Climb diagonally left to the base of a recess.

Pitch 2. 12m (D) Climb the right wall of the recess.

Pitch 3. 6m (D) A broken face. Scramble up to the overhangs, then through the very narrow slit on the left onto a comfortable stance. (It is possible to do an E3 pitch on the outside to avoid the slit). An ascending traverse left, around the corner, leads to a "cave" stance.

Pitch 4. 12m (D) Climb up on the outside of the slit to a platform, then left and up.

Pitch 5. 18m (D) This is a rib between two busy gullies. Walk to the crest of the buttress and scramble up a few meet.

Pitch 6. 12m (E2) Start right of the crest, working on to the letter as soon as possible. Higher up one moves right again.

Pitch 7. 10m (F2) An open recess on flaky looking rock. A knife blade piton should be taken for protection as places for nuts are dubious. Look out for concealed feet.

Pitch 8. This section consists of a diagonal traverse of not more than "D" over blocks and connecting ledges. Scramble up for 100m or so to the nek below the upper section. A rocky tooth is bypassed on the way.

Pitch 9. 12m (E2) A broken face above the neck is climbed to a stance.

Pitch 10. 15m (D) Proceed up a sloping ramp and then through a short chimney to a broad ledge. Walk to the crest of the buttress.

Pitch 11. 6m (C) Take the left of two parallel cracks.

Pitch 12. 18m (D) Climb the chimney directly above.

Pitch 13. 8m (C) Climb up the left of a sharp, protruding rib. Scramble for 100m to a grassy slope. The next pitch is on the huge square cut rock mass immediately ahead.

Pitch 14. 30m (F2) A smooth recess is climbed to a small platform on the right. A lay-back movement, followed by a semi-hand traverse left brings the climber onto a well weathered face. The face is climbed to a crack, which is followed to the top. From here easy scrambling leads to the summit. The final pitch can be easily bypassed.

Descent: Continue up to the summit and then cross the vlaktes on top and use Mia's Poort to return to the road.

Gully Route

Huguenot Buttress ( Berrisford)

Hugenuet Buttress Frontal

Left Wing


Mia's Poort

Right Central Buttress