New Joshua Tree

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Take your climbing shoes with you if you go mountain biking in Tokai Forest. There are two granite boulders. The smaller one has quite a few problems. The larger one has scope for quite a few highball problems. Be careful!

There is a prize (a crate of beer) for the first ascent of Beer Wench 6a in cycling shoes.

Getting There

Cycle up to Level 4 and then go another 200m past the "No cycling on this road, please!" sign. You will pass the granite boulders (down the slope to your left) after about 100m. Continue for about another 100m to a footpath. Follow the footpath to the two granite boulders.

Tokai boulders.png

The Boulder Problems





R The Renovator 5+ 
Up the arete (dangerous)
BW Beer Wench 6a 
Up the obvious blank looking face
NB Naked Back 5+
Up the face right of Beer Wench
B Backbone 5+
Up the arete right of Naked Back
CT Crute's Traverse 5+ 
Traverse from left to right then up
WD40 4 
A good warmup. Standing start at CT. Reach up for the layback crack. Climb the crack and then top out. Crux is near top. Kind of rounds off a bit.
WW Whiskey Wench 6b 
Up the boulder just right of the jugs
F Funkyzeit 6b+ 
Sitting start, right of WW


Bruno Merven on Beer Wench 6a
Keith Forbes on Funkyzeit 6b+