Newborn 29

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Yellowwood topo small3.jpg

GENERAL

Newborn is the only sport route at Yellowwood. It was bolted by Sean Maasch in the late 1990's. Jeremy Samson added more bolts in 2007 and opened the route with Jimbo Smith and Keith Forbes in 2009. At the time of writing (November 2017) the route had seen four known ascents, none onsight. Climbing Newborn requires a big effort and good conditions. The route gets sun from about 11h30, although pitches capped by the big roofs above the halfway ledge are shady for longer. It can bake in summer once the sun hits. Rock quality is generally excellent. The route does not see much traffic, so expect the occasional hollow flake or precariously balanced boulder. Cracks get overgrown in winter. All stances have bolted belays. Most pitches finish on comfortable ledges. Bolts are spaced on easy ground, but close when the climbing gets harder. The first and last pitches can be combined to save time. No pitch is longer than 35m, most are much shorter.

GEAR

A 60m sport rope and 18 draws are needed to climb and descend Newborn. Half ropes work well for parties of three. It allows for hauling a bag and makes it easier to get down (see below).

ROUTE

The route starts approximately 20m right of Show Time. Two large, white boulders mark the spot.

PITCH 1 (18): Easy climbing over gentle ground. Watch out for loose rock.
PITCH 2 (19): Short, easy pitch. Can be combined with the first.
PITCH 3 (25): Thin crux section, then easy climbing to a ledge.
PITCH 4 (24): Short pitch with sustained, technical climbing to a hanging belay.
PITCH 5 (26): Traverse right from the stance to skirt the first roof. Blast past two overlaps and up a delicate corner to the stance. Packs a punch.
PITCH 6 (27): Tricky face climbing leads to an open book and easier ground. The start is harder for shorties.
HALFWAY LEDGE
PITCH 7 (22): Awkward scramble over bad rock. Comfortable, shady stance.
PITCH 8 (28): Superb pitch with a very long reach at the crux. Ends in an uncomfortable hanging belay.
PITCH 9 (24): Sustained climbing past the big roof. Stunning, shady stance.
PITCH 10 (22): Short, easy pitch that ends at a semi-hanging belay.
PITCH 11 (27): Revenge of the shorties. Super technical.
PITCH 12 (25): Climb up left to clip the poorly placed bolt above the overlap. Then come back down and pass the overlap by heading diagonally up and right (crux).
PITCH 13 (15): Ascent the pleasant slab, then scramble up the bushy gully to anchors at the summit. Can be combined with pitch 12.

DESCENT

Getting back to the ground require multiple abseils. There are three viable options:
1. Newborn - Abseiling down the route is the only option when using a single rope. It is straight forward to rap from the halfway ledge, but gets complicated higher up.
2. Down Time - See description elsewhere on the Wiki. Requires 2 x 60m ropes. Six pitches. Better than rapping the route.
3. Timerity - See description elsewhere on the Wiki. Requires 2 x 50m ropes. Three easy raps. Fastest way down, but requires walking.