Nice Time **** Grade 21
The route starts in the middle of the buttress supporting Smalblaar ridge on the right. Walk round from YW amphitheatre, round the large genderme, as if going to the descent gully and chess pieces. Scramble up the easiest obvious grassy ledge system to start at a crack (cairn in place.)
Pitch 1: 30m (19)
Climb the crack to a blocky ledge 5m. Move left 2m and turn the overhang on the left and step right onto the face and climb up to a good stance. Belay to the right of the keyed in flake.
Pitch 2: 35m (20/21)
Climb up carefully using the flake till standing on it. Pull through the overlap and attain easier ground. Traverse left to and the up on the left arête. Climb diagonally up with lay back moves to exit with a mantelshelf move on lichen covered rock. Belay on a small ledge system.
Pitch 3: 20m (18)
Climb the crack on the left and scramble up to belay on a good ledge below the obvious chimney crack on the right.
Pitch 4: 45m (20)
Climb the yellow- red rock to attain the chimney. Continue onto easier bushy terrain and belay on the left next to large blocks.
Pitch 5: 35m (21). Climb over the blocks and continue straight up steep cracks using stemming moves to a ledge. Belay here or continue up the crack system tending to the left to climb through the overlap. (18).
Scramble off right or have a go at the Headwall pitch on the left.
Descent. Down Galley to right (2 raps) or Timerity rap route which is quicker if you went past the drip (3 raps).
First Ascent Charles Edelstein and Dave Vallet 5 February 2011