Outrageous Time 24 *****
Outrageous Time (24)
A fun route that offers steep climbing and a proper crux. Requires an on-sight without fixed gear so will probably be 25/26. Starts about 25m right of the tea spot, just right of a small tree. A cairn against the base marks the spot.
Pitch 1 (20) 35m
Climb straight up, turning a little roof on the left. Continue straight, stepping left onto a small arête that deposits you on a comfortable ledge. Stance here.
Pitch 2 (24 redpoint!) 25m
From the stance, climb diagonally left to the base of a steep orange wall. Strenuous moves past two fixed wires take you to easier terrain. Follow the crack for about five meters. A rising traverse to the right gains the face below a break in the roof. Climb up to the break, then crank through the roof. Step right to stance on the small ledge just over the lip.
Pitch 3 (19) 30m
Head straight up to a large ledge 30m above. Pull through the steepest part of the midway bulge on excellent holds.
Pitch 4 (22) 40m
Climb the left-tending crack to easy ground. Continue straight up, turning the roof either by a very long reach or finding a crimp up and right. Head 2m left to the start of a bottomless corner. Layback up the corner to a big roof (beware: loose rock). Step left around the arête and power through the roof. 20m of easy ground puts you on a big ledge below a white, lichen-covered face.
Pitch 5 (21) 25m
Climb up the centre of the white, lichen-covered face to a ledge below a flaring, overhanging crack. Follow the crack to the top of the buttress.
Note: The crack is a little awkward and it is hard to protect lower down.
Descent: Walk 50m left to the abseil line. Three quick raps put you back on the ground.
Gear: The route is protected with a standard rack (10 x wires, Camalots, Aliens, a dozen slings and draws, 2 x 50m ropes)
FA: Charles Edelstein, Richard Halsey, Adam Roff (pitches 1-4); Charles Edelstein and Willem le Roux (pitch 5) – November 2015
FFA: Willem le Roux and Douw Steyn – January 2016
First onsight with fixed nuts on 2nd pitch: Jimbo Smith Nov 2016