Play Time 20 ****
Play Time 20
Pitch 1 16 50m. Start 4m right of Divine Time. Climb up onto the block and do a high step through the undercut onto the face. Continue to below the overhang and step onto the arête. Continue straight up to the ledge and walk left past the base of the grey pillar to a stance.
Pitch 2 18 35m. Avoid the vegetated corner on the right and climb the grey clean crack to the dassie ledge. If you can reach the holds place a good nut and 1.5in cam and crank up to jugs and continue to a narrow ledge. (Avoid the crank by moving to the grey pillar on the right and then back left – not very aesthetic.) Walk left along the ledge a few metres. (Remember to leave a directional piece for your second.) Climb the polished white and orange rock tending up left to stance in the cubbyhole.
Pitch 3 20 30m Climb out right of the cubbyhole to a recess. Move up right out of the recess. Climb up diagonally left past an excellent finger lock to a below a large jammed flake. Lay back past the flake as is this the easiest way to do this – just trust your feet. Continue up tending a little right to stance right below the roof on the right.
Pitch 4 19 45m Cimb straight up for about 3m and then up the flakes for another 3m. Traverse right 4m under the thin overhang to a ledge. Place some gear on the right and then negotiate a move back left to find good jugs. (Do not climb the crack on the right – loose rock.) Continue up the face staying 3m left of the dihedral on the right and then move right to the arête when 3m or so below the large overhang. Continue up the chimney crack to stance level with the large yellowwood bush seen on the right on Divine Time.
Pitch 5 16 30m Climb inside the chimney or outside on the flakes and continue straight up to the top.
Beta: This route is climbable after rain but it is harder 20/21 but still safe. You will find lots of wet holds that make the footholds seem very insecure.
The gear is really good where you need it to be.
On the third pitch, once you are in the recess do not exit it on its left. It really is not that tricky going right and much cleaner and easier. The climbing is really excellent. Going left lands you in hard scary choss. Enjoy. We did! '
FA C Edelstein and D Van Zyl February 2014