Qiloane

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The name in Sesotho means 'The Basotho Hat'

Location

A very pleasant spot. This pinnacle is immediately east of Thaba Bosiu. Travelling from Maseru pass the pinnacle, 100m before the river take a track on the right which winds through fields to trees at the base.

Decent

The ORDINARY ROUTE is used for descent. The bottom pitch can be abseiled using the large rock above the grass /edge.

1. ORDINARY ROUTE E1* M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

Start on the South East face left of centre, at an orange flake. Done before (followed for descent).

1 Starts at 3m flake crack which leads up to a groove. Up groove to belay on grass ledge.

2 Along grass ledge to prominent chimney on right, climb chimney to chock stone at crest.

3 Up awkward corner above to platform below summit block. Or easier rising traverse to left then up.

4 Climb left-hand arête to summit. Or as NORTH FACE.

The diagonal crack/ine starting at the right end of this face has been climbed but the rock near the top is very poor and the route is best forgotten.

2. ABUTI F3*** M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

On face nearest main road. Takes the prominent crack-line with overhung scoop near the top of the first pitch.

1 Start directly below the scoop and climb the crack stepping right onto a shelf then back into the crack, up into the scoop and out (crux), belay on ledge.

2 Traverse out right and up the wall to the platform below the summit then climb this as NORTH FACE ROUTE.

3. VENTURED 0G112*** M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

This takes the impressive crack below the tree on the North face. A good pitch for the muscle-bound connoisseur of jamming. The first ascent took a rest protection.

1 (E) Climb the short groove then up ledges to belay on a shelf below the second pitch.

2 The crack is strenuous the crux is getting into the top scoop.

3 (E)Finish up the flake behind the tree, step right, mantelshelf into the groove and up to the top, (loose rock in the summit block). or 3A Abseil from the tree.

4.NORTH FACE ROUTE E2*** M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

On face nearest Thaba Bosiu. The N.W. arête has a metal spike below it, start 3m left of this.

1 Climb the groove exit left round rib to bush belay. (Easier start up first crack of VENTURED)

2 Up the slab on the left of the cleft then traverse left to a ledge and tree belay.

3 Climb the crack behind the tree, traverse left and up a blocky crack to the platform on ORDINARY. Climb the wall 2m right of the left hand arête to belay on the summit.

5. MALAWI GIRL F2* M. LANCASTER P. SLATER A short pitch.

1 Start 2m right of N.W. arêté which is undercut. Pull awkwardly onto the wall then up the cracked face to a ledge, at the bottom of the gulley. Finish as NORTH FACE ROUTE.

6. GO GO CRACK G2*** M. LANCASTER

The overhanging crack in the W. face.

1 Climb the overhanging crack quickly on hand and foot jams.


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