St. Michaels

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Location

At the Junction of the Roma and Mantsonyane Roads. Climbs 1-10 face the Mantsonyane road.

Decent

Towards the Mantsonyane road. A broad basin leads to a short easy gully Just East of the village.

Routes

StMichaels.jpg

1. THUSO G1** J. MARKLAND M. LANCASTER

Takes the straight black groove. A good line marred by the finish.

1 40m Climb the groove, crux is exiting from the groove, step right and climb the vegetated rock to the top. Poor belay. (Poor protection above the crux)

2. LUMELA F2** M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

The clean cut inverted V groove leading to a wide crack with trees.

1 35m Up difficult pocketed slab to the right of a bush then left into the crack line. Follow the left-hand side of the groove to the roof, out left then bridge across and up to the tree (best belay to see the second).Easily up to a ledge. Walk off to the right.

3. HYRAX F1 M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

Starts 3m to the right of LUMELA and takes the obvious rightwards facing flake

1 45m Up poor rock then right to the flake, up this and right to a groove passing a tree near the top.

4. MARKS AND SPARKS F3/G1*** M.LANCASTER

A good sustained pitch.

1 35m Climb the corner crack.

5. PETES DOWNFALL F3 P. SLATER M. LANCASTER

An unfinished route.

1. 25m Start-up BLACK CLEFT then traverse left past bushes to cracks follow these to the chimney flake, climb this.

2. 25m Up the cracked wall behind the belay passing bushes, traverse right below the overhang to the arête. Reach up and fall off (20m)!

6. BLACK CLEFT F3* M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

Takes the prominent black cleft. A good first pitch.

1 20m Up awkward crack then groove to sandy ledge, follow the crack through a bulge into a cave/slot.

2 20m Follow crack to exit from the cave, traverse right and up vegetated rock, belay on the highest bush on the right.

3 20m Pull onto the slab and take an easy diagonal line rightwards to the top of BORN AGAIN.

7. RAMBLER F2 M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

A rambling line of least resistance from the right to reach the bush belay at the top of pitch 2 of BLACK CLEFT.

1 25m Start up an easy groove behind a small pillar, and continue rightwards passing a vertical crack to a bush. Traverse the wall on the left to ledges and up to belay at bottom of corner cracks.

2 15m Follow cracks to an overhang pass this on the left to belay on bushes at the top of the pillar.

3 15m Pull onto the slab and exit to the left.

8. BORN AGAIN F3** M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

Takes the obvious curving line on the left of the arête. Start to the right of the vegetated gully.

1. 30m Climb the corner line on the left of the arête to belay at the top of the gully.

2. 30m Pass the tree climb up inside the crack then squirm out of, (A unique climbing experience), and up the crack. Follow the line for a few metres before making a short traverse to the left onto the slab and easily up to the top.

9. THE PROW G1***(*) M. LANCASTER P. SLATER

Takes the vertical crack line to the right of BORN AGAIN. A very good first pitch and potentially, superb second pitch. Well protected. On the first ascent the crack between the overhang and the tree was choked with soil and was aided on nuts. It has now been partially cleaned but probably not sufficiently for a free ascent.


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