Terrific Time 22 *****

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http://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/c/c7/Terrific_Time_Sep_2017_first_ascent.pdf


Terrific Time Photo Top Sep 2017.jpg

Start: 10m left of Lekker Time

Pitch 1: 25m 21. Climb up the easy ramp. Crank onto the grey face and then head up the seam on the orange-red face to a thin rail below the overhang. (There is a loose flake that is useful to use, it is keyed in and could not be removed by the second on the opening ascent) Crank through to juggy rail then crank strenuously out right on grey jugs to attain a balancy face. Move up and left to a ledge.

Pitch 2: 45m 17. Continue up the faces and flakes heading onto the arête on perfect rock to a ledge below the large overhangs. (Stance shared with “Lekker Time”.

Pitch 3: 20m 20. Head up past the fixed cam to the roof rail with lay-backs and or hand jambs Rail right to the lip and continue up the face to the left of Fun Time’s crack belay on top of the large gendarme on the left. (Small cairn).

Pitch 4: 40m 16. Step across the gap and move left and follow corners and cracks upwards to belay on a ledge below and slightly down from a distinctive square orange rock scar.

Pitch 5: 25m 16. Climb past the rock scar 2-3m to the right and continue on excellent rock and good holds to stance on a large ledge shared with Lekker Time.

Pitch 6: 50m 20. Climb up the mottled black the recess on dodgy looking flakes but excellent pro just left of Lekker Time. Once the angle eases step left 3m and climb the grey panels of rock parallel to Lekker Time.

Pitch 7: 20m 19. Pull up onto the slab and head towards a slot in the overlap, just to the left of Lekker Time’s crux. Pull up into the slot (great gear) and head up to the roof to the stance.

Pitch 8:20m 17. Traverse right across the grey face and break through the small roof then head up to the ledge.

Pitch 7 and 8 can be combined if you are sure your second will get the crank through the overlap. But on a hot day it is nice to belay in the shade under the overhang.

An alternative to pitch 8 is to crank straight through the roof on severely cramped up move using under-clings, jambs and so on. Been looked at but not yet climbed. Will be at least grade 24.

Descent: Walk along the ledge system in a south-westerly direction for about 100m to the Timerity Abseil.

FA: Charles Edelstein and Brent Russell September 2017