Truitjieskraal

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General Info

Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg, consisting of 85% sport climbing and 15% trad climbing, although this is predominantly a sport climbing venue. The routes are single pitch of moderate length (+/-30m).
The rock type is coarse Sandstone with a range of grades from easy to difficult on vertical to overhanging rock.
The walk-ins are short and you can always find shade somewhere.

Guide book

Wolfberg Cracks, Tony Lourens, 2008
Western Cape Rock, Tony Lourens, 2015

Getting there

Total journey time is 2½-3½ hour drive North of Cape Town of which 1 hour is a good dirt road.
From Cape Town drive north on the N7. About after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about 45 min, until you see the turnoff to the right to Krom River.
Follow the road to the Krom Rivier Campsite. Once at Krom Rivier campsite ask the office for directions (and permit) to Truitjieskraal.

Food & accommodation

Camping at Krom Rivier (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Prices are very good and campsites have electricity.
You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).
Great Restaurant and a Brewery. (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Notes

No camping is allowed in Truitjieskraal
You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free)
Permits are available at the Krom River Office (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Season

Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.


Climbing Areas

Truitjieskraal map.png


Ken's Block



Sport

  • Hot Chocolate (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Hunks on the Ceiling (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Little Red Riding Helmet (24) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Cork Soaker (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Sock Tucker (20) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996

Trad

On the back side of the block

  • Jug Face (10) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Jiggle (15) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Juggle (19) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • The Groove (13) FA: M. Scott 1999



Red Turret



Trad

  • Rooi Gevaar (13) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Silly Sermon (19)

5m left of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.

FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10

  • Yellow River (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Big Red (11) FA: M. Scott 1998

These routes are to the right of Big Red, listed left to right

Taug5.jpg

  • Scarlet Vantage (16)

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)

  • Red Wine Planet (19)

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)

  • Raspberry Vice (18)

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)

  • Rooi Pypie (17)

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)

There are bolted lower offs at the back if you can find them.


  • Brick Rover (18)

Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of Arête and gun for the top.
Walk off and down gulley to right of route.

FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10

BrickRover.jpg

White: Brick Rover

Sport

  • Flight of the Dodo's (18) FA: R. Taco 2017

Dodo.jpeg


Gollum's Alley



Trad

  • Gollum's Arête (11) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Shelob's Lair (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Riddle (14) FA: M. Scott 2000



Dragon's Cleft



Trad

  • Dragon Pillar (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Dragon Crack (19) FA: Unknown 2000
  • Dragon Wall (19) [Top Rope]
  • Dragon Face (17) [Top Rope]
  • Dragon Breath (15) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Dragoon (15) FA: M. Scott 2000


  • Pendragon (18)

Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.

FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011

  • Komodo Dragon (20)

Make a bold start (possible to protect first moves with micronuts) up to the ledge then step left to the corner. A tricky move up to the next rail, and out left to a little perch. Continue up and right on fantastic holds and then left of the big fin at the top.

FA: R. Halsey (Aug 2018)

  • Dragonboat (20)

On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.

FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011

  • Double Dragon (21)

Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back
FA: J. Hajos 18/6/2011

Dragonrd1.jpg

From the left: Pendragon (18), Dragonboat (20) and Double Dragon (21)

  • Cold Chamber (21)

A deceptively tricky recess opposite the Dragon Wall.

FA: R. Halsey (Aug 2018)

Taug4.jpg

Cold Chamber (21)

  • Double Down (14)

Walk through the Dragon cleft (from the carpark side) and find a short wall. Follows the recess up the side of the wall.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018

Taug3.jpg

Double Down (14)

This route is in a collection of features opposite (South) of the Dragon area

Taug2.jpg

  • Team Vvoooom (16)

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018

Punks in the Cederberg Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Chasing the Dragon (19) FA: A. von Hase 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans
  • Sugarman (20) FA: C. Tooze 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans (This route is run-out between bolts two and three.)
  • Radical Dance Party (21) FA: C. Bruton 1996
    A classic!
  • Punks in the Cederberg (26) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    A hold might have broken on this route, since it seems several grades harder than 26
  • Route the Brute (25) C. Bruton 1996
    This route includes a five move traverse to the left to clip, and then five moves right to get you back to where you were. Nevertheless, it is an awesome line.
  • Skunks in the Bin (25) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.

Trad

  • Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • The Crack (22) FA: C. Edelstein 2002
  • Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott 1998


Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

The Crack (22) FA:C. Edelstein
Left: Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott; Right: Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott

Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott



Cave Buttress



  • The Cave (16) FA: T. Versfeld, C. Edelstein 2003



Twin Columns



  • Twin Column (14) FA: M. Scott 2001


  • Twin Peaks (21)

On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Two for One (17)

Start about 3m right of Twin Peaks. Climb a short a ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Kissing Towers (19)

Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.

FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)

  • Twins Fears (18)

Great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

Twin.jpg

Left to Right: Twin Peaks, Two for One, Kissing Towers, Twin Fears. Abseil point at top of Two for One (as at Dec 2017)

The Arch



  • Tripping Through her Wire (24) FA: C. Martinengo 2004



Gateway Prow



  • Truitjies Rib (14) FA: M. Scott 1999



Tre Putane



  • Lilly Slapped Silly (10) FA: M. Scott 2001
  • Donald Where's Your Troosers (16) FA: M. Scott 2001
  • Suzy Q (13) FA: M. Scott 2001


  • Average Man (20)

Pull over the initial bulge, then step left and up the blunt arête. Step back right to series of vertical cracks starting at a small tree growing in the cubby hole. Great climbing up the cracks to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Everyday Hero (15)

Step up onto a platform below a smooth white, blank section. Pull up into a series of short vertical cracks that tend up and left.

FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)

Aveman.jpg

Left to Right: Average Man, Everyday Hero. Abseil point between these two routes (as at Dec 2017)

Gift Buttress



  • The Gift (11) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • The Ribbon (14) FA: M. Scott 2002



Cleavage Wall



  • A-Schlot Machine (24) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • B-The Abyss (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • C-Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22) FA: T. Lourens 2011
  • D-That Booty Magic (21) FA: C.Tooze 18 March 2018


Cleavage Wall topo.png
Cormac That.JPG

Cormac on 'That Booty Magic'

Hueco Punks Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • Nice Enough (15) FA: S. Lundgren 1996
  • Knee Bar Wager (17) FA: Amy Whistler 1996
  • Hueco Punks (26) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Fun dyno!
  • Crimping Christmas (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Same start as Hueco Punks
  • Knees Up (18) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Nick Nack (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Paddy Whack (20) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Give the Dog a Bone (18) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Skinhead Stomp (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Way to Go (15) FA: M. Scott 1996


Trad

Right of sport routes

  • Macarena (12) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • Ketchup (8) FA: M. Scott 2002



Give Away Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Flint Hard (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Flint Soft (22) FA: M. Roberts 1996
  • Old Codgers Ego Boost (23/24) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Project J. Temple-Forbes.
  • The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (28) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
  • The Passion (26) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • The Golden Handshake (34) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
  • Million Dollar Giveaway (29) FA: A. Cameron-Duff 1996
  • Weasels Ripped my Flesh (18/19) FA: T. Lourens Nov. 2014


Trad

  • Ignition (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Jam Crack (24) FA: H. Zak 2002



Rattler Buttress



Sport

From left to right:

  • Lang Arm (23) FA: A. McCann 2006
  • Knucklehead Mac Spazmatron (26) FA: J. Terblanche 2006
  • These Violent Delights (22) FA: M.Wiswedel 2018 - could be harder if you're short
  • Oil Spikes (25) FA: J. Samson 2006
  • Forked Tongue (23) FA: P. McCann 2006
  • Mad Moose Disease (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996 - Hanger missing on second last bolt!
  • Mad Cowboys Disease (31) FA: T. Skinner 1996

Rattler Butress


Trad

  • Micky Mouse Rib (10) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • Rattle my Chops (15) FA: M. Scott 1998



Parkinson's Wall



  • Shake(22) [Top Rope]
  • Rattle (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Roll(13) FA: M. Scott 1999



Alzheimer's Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • Alzheimer's (21) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Schizophrenia (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Unforgettable (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996


Trad

Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

What? (13) FA: M. Scott
What? (13) FA: M. Scott
Alzheimer's C route on rib; Photo by Mike Scott



Rattlesnake Arête



Sport

  • Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996

This route does not have standard lower off anchors. There is only one bolt & hanger. The hanger on the first bolt has been removed.

Trad

  • Where? (11) FA: M. Scott 1999

Climb the obvious chimney left of Rattlesnake Arête.
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

Where? (11) FA: M. Scott



Rattlesnake Sector



This is the wall to the right of Rattlesnake Arête. Currently there are no routes on this wall. On the far right hand side of Rattlesnake Sector and set back is a obvious prow with an oval grove two thirds of the way up. This is Slither Prow.

Slither-Prow-A4.jpg

Snake Charmer Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • The Snake Charmer (27) FA: T. Skinner 1996
  • King Cobra (24) FA: T. Skinner 1996
  • Pass the Ham (27) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • BOA (19) * FA: M.Gowans & Johno Gordon 2017
  • Viper (23) * FA M.Gowans 2018
  • Get Shorty (23) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • Babe (22) FA: J. Samson 1996

The-Snake-Charmer-A4.jpg

Trad

  • High Speed Cow (26?)

Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.

Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.

Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.

FA: R. Halsey and S. Nightingale (July 2018)

Hscrd.jpg

High Speed Cow


  • The Blizzard Beast? (24/25)

Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it!

Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face.

For the full experience, climb it during a snow storm and collect your Sub-zero Hero badge at the top.

FA: R. Halsey (Aug 2018)

Taug1.jpg

The Blizzard Beast



  • Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott 1996
Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott; Photo: M. Scott



Can Can Alley



Ross Suter and Malcolm Gowans were the first to climb in this area in 1998. In 2002 Patrick McCann and Mike Scott added a number of quality trad routes. Sport climbing only began when Malcolm Gowans and Cormac Tooze then put up the first sport routes in 2011. Since then the number of Sport routes has gown substantially.

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area. From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. follow the cairns right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall

Sport

From left to right

  • Freechild (17) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
  • Fynhoud (19) FA: A. von Hase, M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Dust Devil (24) FA: M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Wicked (18) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
  • Dynosmite (19) FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
  • Skeletium Skank (23) FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
  • Chasing my Bokkie (16) FA: Malcolm Gowans 21-12-2013.
  • Spring Haasie Spring (14) FA: Amrei von Hase 21-12-2013. Bolted by M Gowans & A von Hase
  • Luna Llena (16) FA: Javier Gutierrez. 07-09-2014. Bolted by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans
  • Lucky Strike (21) A: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase
  • Moulin Rouge {left start} (15) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Moulin Rouge (18) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Chorus Line (17) FA: Mike Scott Jan 2015 Bolted by Patrick McCann
  • Burlesque (19) FA: Patrick McCann Apr 2015
  • Cedar Brew (19) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann November 2015
  • Cedar Stout (20) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
  • Cedar Weiss (17) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann Dec 2017
  • Cedar Blonde (17) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015


The Hunting Grounds

The Hunting Grounds

Trad

From left to right

CanCan Alley Trad Lines - Topo.jpg

  • A: ChaCha (16) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2002): Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress.
  • B: Tap Dance (12) FA: Patrick McCann, Mike Scott and Adele McCann (2002): Well protected climb through lay back at 1/3rd height and then steep jugs to top.
  • C: CanCan Arête (13) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004):
  • D: CanCan Diagonal (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004)
  • E: CanCan Central (14) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • F: Grey Arête (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • G: Candlewood (16) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann (2014) – Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge, climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A nice, well protected line - keep your large nut (BD size 13) for the vertical crack. (now bolted)
  • Hot Tango (15)

Start about 5m right of CanCan Diagonal, at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds. Then continue straight to the top of the crag.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Summer Salsa (15)

Start about 5m right of Hot Tango. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

Cancan.jpg

Left to right: Hot Tango, Summer Salsa. There are now chains for a sport route about ¾ the way up between these two routes that could be used for descent.

  • Camel Man (16)

Start about 2m right of Moulin Rouge and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m.

FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett (Dec 2017)

  • Striptease (16)

Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start.

FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)


Lucky Strike and Chorus Line Walls.jpg

Lucky Strike Wall.jpg

Sarie Marais Alley



Sport

  • A-Sweet and Sticky (17) FA: A. Chiat 2017
  • B-Sarie Marais (21/22) FA: C. Tooze 02/01/2018

Sarie Marais Alley.png

Sweet and Sticky.jpg

Aimée on Sweet and Sticky-17

Sarie Marais Susana.jpg

Susana on Sarie Marais-21/22



Trad

  • Balancing Act (18)

In the middle of left hand wall (facing towards Can Can area) is a finger crack. Follow this to the ledge, then step right and climb the short steep face above (this is actual a large block that appears to be balancing on the top of the gulley, so user discretion is advised).

FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett


  • Medunsa (18)

To the right of Balancing Act is a broken hand crack, and right of that is a separate face. Climb the middle of this face to the top. Some tricky gear in places, and some slightly fragile rock.

FA: R. Halsey

  • Tunnel Vision (15)

Really good and steep for the grade. On the wall opposite Balancing Act, is a dark brown recess with a crack line running up out of it. Climb up to the recess and straight up the steep wall above.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters

Smg1.jpg


Left to Right: Balancing Act, Medunsa, Cuddlefish

Kiddies Wall

Small but aesthetic block between Sarie Marais Alley and Can Can Area

  • Snow Fish (15)

More or less on the left side of the face

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Aug 2018)

  • Cuddle Fish (13)

Take a central line up the short, dark red face.

R.Halsey & F. Walters

Third Car park area

These two routes are on the wall that forms the gulley on the first buttress to the right of the King Cobra Prow.

To be named (17?)

Start up the break on the left of the wall and at the ledge pull onto the second half of the wall just to the left of the corner of the roof.

FA: T. Versveld & R. Halsey (Mar 2018)

Chubby Head Stout (21?)

Start up the middle break with a tricky start. At the ledge step right to use a lower section of the roof to pull through and then step left and straight up the face to the top. Start will be harder for shorter folks.

FA: R. Halsey & T. Versveld (Mar 2018)

TK1.JPG

L to R: To be named, Chubby Head Stout.


This route is on the small face in front of the second buttress to the right of King Cobra Prow.

Yellow Fish Lager (23)

Head up the face to an overlap. Pull right to layback and up to the narrow roof. Crank through using the finger crack and easily to the ledge. Walk off right.

FA: R. Halsey & T. Versveld (Mar 2018)

TK4.JPG

Yellow Fish Lager


These two routes are on the left side on the Bushman Wall, which forms a pillar when viewed head on. Abseil tat as of Mar 2018.

Catfish Ale (17)

Start up the beak on the right side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep ground to the blunt arête, which ends at a small ledge.

FA: R. Halsey & T. Versveld (Mar 2018)

To be named (16)

Start up the beak on the left side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep section and straight to the top.

FA: T. Versveld & R. Halsey (Mar 2018)

TK2.JPG

L to R:Catfish Ale, to be named

Bushman Wall

These are in the Wolfberg Cracks guide book Boesman (12) FA: M. Scott 2000

Lena (12) FA: M. Scott 2000

Rockart (13) FA: M. Scott 2000

Poison Arrow (13) FA: M. Scott 2000

Water Skin (13) FA: M. Scott 2000


These routes are on the second small wall to the right of the Bushman Wall

Klip Man (15)

Start just to the right of a small overhang and climb in the centre of the face.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Mar 2018)

Khoi Son (17)

Start near Klip Man but head up and tend right to the top right corner of the wall.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Mar 2018)

TK3.JPG

L to R: Klip Man, Khoi Son


These two routes are on the left of the collection of buttresses behind and right of Bushman Wall as viewed from the 3rd carpark. From the Babe Area car park, walk past the Bushman wall on the right for a few mins to the buttress.

Striped Horse (16)

Start just right of a recess and then more or less straight to the top with a steep section in the middle.

FA: R. Halsey (Mar 2018)

Tall Horse (18)

Takes the vague arête on the right of the buttress at the entrance to the gulley.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Mar 2018)

TK5.JPG

L to R: Striped Horse, Tall Horse


Auburn Strawberries (14)

Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around.

FA: R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010

AuburnStrawberries.jpg
Auburn Strawberries

Photos



The dyno on Hueco Punks
Mad Moose Disease 25
King Cobra 24
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-2;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


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