Truitjieskraal

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General Info

Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg, consisting of 85% sport climbing and 15% trad climbing, although this is predominantly a sport climbing venue. The routes are single pitch of moderate length (+/-30m).
The rock type is coarse Sandstone with a range of grades from easy to difficult on vertical to overhanging rock.
The walk-ins are short and you can always find shade somewhere.

Guide book

Wolfberg Cracks, Tony Lourens, 2008
Western Cape Rock, Tony Lourens, 2015

Getting there

Total journey time is 2½-3½ hour drive North of Cape Town of which 1 hour is a good dirt road.
From Cape Town drive north on the N7. About after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about 45 min, until you see the turnoff to the right to Krom River.
Follow the road to the Krom Rivier Campsite. Once at Krom Rivier campsite ask the office for directions (and permit) to Truitjieskraal.

Food & accommodation

Camping at Krom Rivier (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Prices are very good and campsites have electricity.
You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).
Great Restaurant and a Brewery. (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Notes

No camping is allowed in Truitjieskraal
You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free)
Permits are available at the Krom River Office (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Season

Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.


Climbing Areas

Truitjieskraal map.png


Ken's Block



Sport

  • Hot Chocolate (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Hunks on the Ceiling (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Little Red Riding Helmet (24) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Cork Soaker (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Sock Tucker (20) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996

Trad

On the back side of the block

  • Jug Face (10) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Jiggle (15) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Juggle (19) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • The Groove (13) FA: M. Scott 1999



Red Turret



Trad

  • Rooi Gevaar (13) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Silly Sermon (19) FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10
    5m left of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.
  • Yellow River (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Big Red (11) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Brick Rover (18) FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10
    Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of Arête and gun for the top.
    Walk off and down gulley to right of route.
Brick Rover 18



Gollum's Alley



Trad

  • Gollum's Arête (11) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Shelob's Lair (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Riddle (14) FA: M. Scott 2000



Dragon's Cleft



Trad

  • Dragon Pillar (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Dragon Crack (19) FA: Unknown 2000
  • Dragon Wall (19) [Top Rope]
  • Dragon Face (17) [Top Rope]
  • Dragon Breath (15) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Dragoon (15) FA: M. Scott 2000


  • Pendragon (18) FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
    Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend
  • Dragonboat (20) FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
    On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.
  • Double Dragon (21) FA: J. Hajos 18/6/2011
    Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back
From the left: Pendragon (18), Dragonboat (20) and Double Dragon (21)



Punks in the Cederberg Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Chasing the Dragon (19) FA: A. von Hase 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
  • Sugarman (20) FA: C. Tooze 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
    (This route is run-out between bolts two and three.)
  • Radical Dance Party (21) FA: C. Bruton 1996
    A classic!
  • Punks in the Cederberg (26) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    A hold might have broken on this route, since it seems several grades harder than 26
  • Route the Brute (25) C. Bruton 1996
    This route includes a five move traverse to the left to clip, and then five moves right to get you back to where you were. Nevertheless, it is an awesome line.
  • Skunks in the Bin (25) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.

Trad

  • Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • The Crack (22) FA: C. Edelstein 2002
  • Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott 1998


Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

The Crack (22) FA:C. Edelstein
Left: Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott; Right: Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott

Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott



Cave Buttress



  • The Cave (16) FA: T. Versfeld, C. Edelstein 2003



Twin Columns



  • Twin Column (14) FA: M. Scott 2001



The Arch



  • Tripping Through her Wire (24) FA: C. Martinengo 2004



Gateway Prow



  • Truitjies Rib (14) FA: M. Scott 1999



Tre Putane



  • Lilly Slapped Silly (10) FA: M. Scott 2001
  • Donald Where's Your Troosers (16) FA: M. Scott 2001
  • Suzy Q (13) FA: M. Scott 2001



Gift Buttress



  • The Gift (11) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • The Ribbon (14) FA: M. Scott 2002



Cleavage Wall



  • Schlot Machine (24) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • The Abyss (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22) FA: T. Lourens 2011
    Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall



Hueco Punks Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • Nice Enough (15) FA: S. Lundgren 1996
  • Knee Bar Wager (17) FA: Amy Whistler 1996
  • Hueco Punks (26) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Fun dyno!
  • Crimping Christmas (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Same start as Hueco Punks
  • Knees Up (18) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Nick Nack (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Paddy Whack (20) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Give the Dog a Bone (18) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Skinhead Stomp (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Way to Go (15) FA: M. Scott 1996


Trad

Right of sport routes

  • Macarena (12) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • Ketchup (8) FA: M. Scott 2002



Give Away Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Flint Hard (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Flint Soft (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Old Codgers Ego Boost (23/24) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (28) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
  • The Passion (26) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • The Golden Handshake (34) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
  • Million Dollar Giveaway (29) FA: A. Cameron-Duff 1996
  • Weasels Ripped my Flesh (18/19) FA: T. Lourens Nov. 2014


Trad

  • Ignition (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Jam Crack (24) FA: H. Zak 2002



Rattler Buttress



Sport

From left to right:

  • Lang Arm (22) FA: A. McCann 2006
  • To Hot to Ignore (23) FA: J. Terblanche 2006
  • Oil Spikes (25) FA: J. Samson 2006
  • Forked Tongue (23) FA: P. McCann 2006
  • Mad Moose Disease (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Mad Cowboys Disease (31) FA: T. Skinner 1996


Trad

  • Micky Mouse Rib (10) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • Rattle my Chops (15) FA: M. Scott 1998



Parkinson's Wall



  • Shake(22) [Top Rope]
  • Rattle (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Roll(13) FA: M. Scott 1999



Alzheimer's Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • Alzheimer's (21) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Schizophrenia (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Unforgettable (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996


Trad

Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

What? (13) FA: M. Scott
What? (13) FA: M. Scott
Alzheimer's C route on rib; Photo by Mike Scott



Rattlesnake Arête



Sport

  • Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996


Trad

  • Where? (11) FA: M. Scott 1999


Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

Where? (11) FA: M. Scott



Snake Charmer Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • The Snake Charmer (27) FA: T. Skinner 1996
  • King Cobra (24) FA: T. Skinner 1996
  • Pass the Ham (27) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • Get Shorty (23) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • Babe (22) FA: J. Samson 1996


Trad

  • Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott 1996
Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott; Photo: M. Scott



Can Can Alley



Patrick McCann and Mike Scott started climbing in this area in 2002 and over the years opened a number of trad lines. Malcolm Gowan's then put up the first sport route in 2011.

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area. From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. follow the cairns right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall --Xenomorph (talk) 15:15, 18 April 2017 (SAST)

Sport

From left to right

  • Freechild (17) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
  • Fynhoud (19) FA: A. von Hase, M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Dust Devil (24) FA: M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Wicked (18) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
  • Dynosmite (19) FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
  • Skeletium Skank (23) FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
  • Chasing my Bokkie (16) FA: Malcolm Gowans 21-12-2013.
  • Spring Haasie Spring (14) FA: Amrei von Hase 21-12-2013. Bolted by M Gowans & A von Hase
  • Luna Llena (16) FA: Javier Gutierrez. 07-09-2014. Bolted by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans
  • Lucky Strike (21) A: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase
  • Moulin Rouge {left start} (15) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Moulin Rouge (18) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Chorus Line (18) FA: Mike Scott Jan 2015 Bolted by Patrick McCann
  • Burlesque (20) FA: Patrick McCann Apr 2015
  • Cedar Brew (19) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann November 2015
  • Cedar Stout (20) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
  • Cedar Blonde (17) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


Trad

From left to right

CanCan Alley Trad Lines - Topo.jpg

  • A: ChaCha (16) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2002): Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress.
  • B: Tap Dance (12) FA: Patrick McCann, Mike Scott and Adele McCann (2002): Well protected climb through lay back at 1/3rd height and then steep jugs to top.
  • C: CanCan Arête (13) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004):
  • D: CanCan Diagonal (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004)
  • E: CanCan Central (14) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • F: Grey Arête (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • G: Candlewood (16) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann (2014) – Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge, climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A nice, well protected line - keep your large nut (BD size 13) for the vertical crack.

Lucky Strike and Chorus Line Walls.jpg

Lucky Strike Wall.jpg

Bushman Wall



  • Boesman (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Lena (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Rockart (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Poison Arrow (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Water Skin (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Auburn Strawberries' (14) FA: R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010
    From the Babe Area car park, walk past the Bushman wall on the right for a few mins to the buttress. Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around.

AuburnStrawberries.jpg
Auburn Strawberries 14

Photos



The dyno on Hueco Punks
Mad Moose Disease 25
King Cobra 24
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-2;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


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