South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Waterval Boven

2013-02-19T05:34:11Z

Brianweaver: /* New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide */

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== The Waterval Boven Guide ==

This guide covers everything.

[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_May_2012.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated May 2012.]

== Add New Routes below: ==

'''Baboon Buttress'''

Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011

Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012

RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011

HYPOPNEA 25 *** (6D,A) From the ledge at the chains of Dreamers (23), un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left to more chains. If you do this and Dreamers as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013

'''Hallucinogen Wall'''

ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012

Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones. Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack. Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack. Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ. Possibly easier if you are tall.
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.

Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010

'''Superbowl'''

Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.

The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.

== New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide ==

'''He-Man Area'''

These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing ''Cotapaxi'', walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.

*SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

*SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up ''Skeletor''. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

'''God No! Wall'''

*THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top. FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.

*MUTATION 32 ***** (17D,A) Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height. From the letterbox 'rest' do the big move as for Beast but continue straight up and claw your way through the cracks with your core roaring at you and your feet desperately searching for anything to stand on. An instant classic at the God No Wall. One of the best lines in Boven. Downgraded after an easier sequence found a way to skip a 6 move boulder problem in the crux.
FA: Brian Weaver, June 2012

'''Superbowl'''
*THE NEXT GENERATION 33 ***** (12D,A) The route previously known as 'The Broject' starts up the easy pillar 5m right of Hack and Slay. A short easy face leads into Boven's answer to Rocklands roof bouldering. Get creative and enjoy something unique to Boven. A massive thanks goes to my Big Bro - Dewald Kloppers - for bolting the line and letting me try it with him. FA: Marc Flex Efune, December 2012, BB Dewald Kloppers

'''Theatre'''
*MANKINI BLUE 26 *** (8D,A) Climb Bikini Red for two bolts then move left and up via 1-2 small holds. A crimpers delight. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2012

'''Breakfast crag'''
*KIRI 18 *** (5D,A)To the right of CRACK UP, around the corner. Climb the arete on the left. BB: Sharon Benade FA: Johan Moelich, July 2012

Trad Hit List

2012-12-05T14:48:30Z

Brianweaver: /* Magaliesberg */

=== A list of best Trad routes in ZA - Any grade, anything goes, can have a bolt here or there but must be primarily Trad ===

(I'm going to keep on editing my list (below) with suggestions that are made at http://www.climb.co.za/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2961 
Alternatively, login to add to the list.

=== Wolfberg ===
* Energy Crisis (20)
* Celestial Journey (22)
* Alone in Space (22)
* Eclipse (13)
* Knobless Robot (18)

=== Tafelberg ===
* Big Groove (20)
* Comes a Time (20)
* Baboon Speak (21)
* Rooibosch (18)
* Pillar Box Standard Route (17)
* Woodrow Arete (18)

=== Krakadouw ===
* King Kong 21/22
* Ichthyasaurus 21/22
* Austrolopethicus

=== Table Mountain ===
* Triple Indirect
* Jacobs Ladder 17
* Roulette 19
* African Lunch 23
* Magnetic Wall 19
* Atlantic Crag
* The Dream
* Bombay Duck 17

=== Lions Head granite ===
* Millions (1Cool
* Bastille Crack (20)

=== Lion's Head Sandstone ===
* Clifton Crest (15)

=== Lakeside Pinnacle ===
*Crack of Dawn (17)

=== Muizenberg Crag ===
* Crackle
* No Name Brand
* Understairs and Dilettante

=== Du Toits Kloof ===
* Exposure in the F Major
* No more bells
* Renaissance

=== Yellowwood Amphitheatre ===
* Armageddon Time

=== Hellfire ===
* Hellfire (the route) 24
* Burnout
* Aurora (19)
* Joker Smoker (17)

=== Montagu ===
* Technicolour Darkness [area closed]
* Nuclear Waste [area closed]

=== Karbonaaitjieskraal ===
* Rastarock
* Divine Dog

=== Manoutsa ===
* Hard Rock Cafe (18)

=== Blyderivier ===
* Green Bottle (19)
* Prelude to Luka (20)
* Book of Baloo (21)
* Silver Ribbon (18)
* Sundance Kid (19)
* The Iron Curtain (24)
* Cactus Dykes (20)
* Buried Treasure (20)
* Mother Nature's Necessities (19)
(Check the Blydepoort Classics RD for more)

=== Blouberg ===
* Eight Miles High (24)
* Dog Day in Heaven (25/6)
* Hey Jude (21)
* Dreams of White Dogs (26)
* Dog of Thunder (30 A0)

=== Kransberg ===
* Aasvoël's End (17 R)
* Angel Recess (15)

=== Magaliesberg ===
* Mhalbs:
Space Walk (21)
Crystal Fire (23)
Egowhip (23)
Straight Edge (16)
Final Cut (25)

* Upper Tonquani:
Last Rites (19 X)
Red Corner (17)
Hawks Eye (13)
The Moke (17)
Hyperadrenia (20)
Alchemy (22)
* Cedarberg:
Boggle (19)
Difficult Shapes and Passive Rythms (21)
Tigatrix (18)
Hangdog (21)
Golden Balls (15)
Butterfly (16)
Twist & Shout (28)
Cedarberg Corner Direct (13)
* Boulder:
Dogstyle (23)
Sabre (19)
Raging Bull (20)
Slipstream (18)
Blood and Chocolate (18)
* Kranskloof:
The Cruise (22)
Golden Goose (17)
The Swarm (direct finish) (19)
Pistol (18)
Arch of Time (24)
Clime of the Century (20)
Foetus (17)
* Lower Tonquani:
Hourglass (17)
Exstacy (17)
Doppler Effect (21)
Circuit Breaker (22)
Just Hot (23)
More Monkey Than Funkey (21)
Red Column (15)
Sands of Time (19 R)
Gnasher (19)
Question of Balance (21)
* Fernkloof:
Fernkloof Pinnacle (17)
Dextrose
Lazarus
* Hamerkop:
Quintessence (22)
One Crack Mind (19)
Amazing Grace Direct (18 X)
The Beer Hunter (20 X)
* Eureka Dome:
Aftermath
* Dome:
Fallen Angel
Devil's Advocate
Magic Dragon
Muffin Direct
Time Limit
* Grootkloof:
Isolation Pinnacle (11)
Dive Bomber (direct)
* Castle Gorge:
Donner en Bliksem (20)
* Trident:
Apex
Swiss Army Knife (17 R)

=== Wilgepoort ===
* The Key (Direct first pitch) (21)
* Cabernet/Muscadel Crack combination (18)
* McFats LGP

===The Hell===
*To Hell with skin

===Magageni===
*Snakeskin Arete (20)

=== Mary (E Cape) ===
* The Legend (26)

=== Paarl Rocks ===
* Stem Gem - 22

=== The Berg ===
* The North Face Route on Sentinel Peak (also called the Angus-Leppan Route)
* Devil's Tooth.
* Mponjwana, Standard Route.
* The Bell, Hoper's Route.
* The Pyramid, Standard Route.
* The Column, Escarpment Arête.
* The Monk's Cowl, Standard and Barry's Route.
* The Injasuti Western Triplet, North West Ridge Route.
* Giant's Castle, Schole's Route.
* Giant's Castle, Makaza and the Main Loteni Couloir (ice routes).
* Not so auto (on Monks cowl)

=== Boven ===
* Heart of China (23)
* Al's Bells (19)

=== Monteseel ===
* Powderfinger
* Fiddler in the roof
* Granny's souped up wheelchair

=== Pinnacle Gorge ===
* Lycra Trea
* Por_noster
* Slow ecstasy
* Snip Snip
* Fingercrack
* Think Pink

=== Nagas Gorge ===
* Old man's ecstasy
* Moonjig

=== Lady Slipper ===
* MacKegnie's madness
* Twinkletoes
* Flashdance

=== Hogsback ===
* Fame and fashion

=== Both gorges in EC ===

Bobbejaans Berg

2012-10-26T08:38:28Z

Brianweaver: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of April 2012'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||22||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png]]

Building in top left corner is the ablution block in the caravan park. Trail begins at a "White Spot" of paint on a rock under the trees. Follow the dots to the various areas.

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]
Swatting Mosquitos: 7A. Start on thin crimps and head up slopers. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

Farside Traverse: 7A+. Start as for Swatting Mosquitos and head right avoiding the big ledge at the top. Top out as for Midway Traverse. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Midway Traverse: 6c+. Begin on square hold, move up and traverse right on slopey holds above the roof. Top out to the right on big ledges. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Unknown Dyno: 6C. Start to the left of the tree on crimps, just to upper ledge and top out. FA: PUT YOUR NAME HERE!!

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

Blindside Arete: 7C. Begin with left hand in small undercling on the edge of roof, right hand in the slot crimp. Pull up, move up and left. Top out on flat holds on top. FA: Adam Ludford 2011. Downgraded to 7C after some more experience.

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

Acrophobia: 7C. Begin hugging the feature. Work your way up through the overhang and top out. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right until you down-climb after topping out. FA: Brian Weaver 2011. Downgraded to 7C after some more experience.

Waterval Boven

2012-06-19T12:23:35Z

Brianweaver: /* New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide */

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== The Waterval Boven Guide ==

This guide covers everything.

[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_May_2012.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated December 2011.]

== Add New Routes below: ==

'''Baboon Buttress'''

Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011

Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012

RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011

'''Hallucinogen Wall'''

ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012

Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones. Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack. Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack. Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ. Possibly easier if you are tall.
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.

Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010

'''Superbowl'''

Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.

The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.

== New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide ==

'''He-Man Area'''

These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing ''Cotapaxi'', walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.

*SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

*SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up ''Skeletor''. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

'''God No! Wall'''

*THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top. FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.

*MUTATION 33 ***** (17D,A) Make your way through the animal trap and blast up the headwall on The Beast. From the letterbox start do the big move as for Beast but continue straight up and claw your way through the cracks with your core roaring at you and your feet desperately searching for anything to stand on. An instant classic at the God No Wall. One of the best lines in Boven.
FA: Brian Weaver, June 2012

The Chosspile

2012-01-27T09:03:58Z

Brianweaver: /* Lord of The Rings */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Compact Quartzite

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==
Please adhere to under mentioned access arrangements religiously. The Chosspile was closed due to a spate of muggings and later re-opened following negotiations with the landowners and huge effort from the climbing community led by Neil Margetts and friends.

Some of the history:
*[http://www.climb.co.za/2011/01/chosspile-safety-temporary-closure Temporary Closure in place for the Chosspile]
*[http://www.climb.co.za/2011/04/chosspile-rehab-project-phase-4 Chosspile Rehab Project Phase 4]
*[http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7030 Choss Work Meet this Sunday 22 may 2011 (and re-opening notice)]

'''Procedure for climbers or walkers at Chosspile'''
* Every person must first report to Mount Amanzi and sign the indemnity
* Every person must pay R30 (Those who want full access to all facilities of Mount Amanzi such as heated pool, restaurant etc. pay R55, see www.mountamanzi.co.za)
* Those who buy year passes must have their name on the list. Their pass expires when the date expires.
* Every person must be a member or accompany a member of one of the following clubs who must show the membership card with current date sticker on reverse:
** Mountain Club of South Africa
** South African National Climbing Federation
** University Student Card with their climbing club sticker on the reverse of the current year. (Pretoria Univ, WITS, UJ, Potch Univ, UKZN, Rhodes, UCT )
*** Note: These university clubs can gain free entrance if they take groups of under privileged people climbing. They also get a number of free entrance credits. This must be arranged in advance with Mount Amanzi.
* Each member may take one guest, who must also sign and pay R30.
* There is a guard at the crags who gets R5 per visitor, you may tip him additionally if you wish.

Please stick to these rules to keep the access open and the crag safe.

[[File:Chosspile.jpg|center]]

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the leftmost part of The Chosspile. It lies uphill from the ablutions as you drive into the usual parking spot. The best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m turn '''left''' at a T-junction in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MYRTLE 20 *** [7D,A]''' 
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''New Route -- SALAZAR suggested grade 18''' 
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.
First ascent: February 2010 Daniel Hannah, bolted by David Tapp

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
Start 2m to the right of SALAZAR. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make an early ground fall less likely.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''THE BLOODY BARON 15*** [12B,A]''' 
Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''QUIDDITCH 23**** [7B,A]''' (Suggested consensus grade 22)
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''New Route -- THE BALLS OF HAGRID suggested grade 20 [9B,A]''' 
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
First ascent: David Tapp January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts

'''New Route -- THE SLAB OF SNAPE suggested grade 16 [15B,A]''' 
The first route on the main face.
Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under the overhang and up the slab (crux) to the chains.
'''PLEASE NOTE: 60m rope essential, 15 quickdraws.''' 
First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts/David Tapp

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''A variation of Slitherin 18''' heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CROOKSHANKS 16*** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Step up right onto a ledge to clip the first bolt. Move left and then up. Fun climbing, with the last bit the crux. F.A. Neil Margetts 2007

Approximately 8m to the right is...

'''New Route ROWLING'S RAMBLE 13 (suggested grade) [6D,A]''' 
Start to the right of a big green bush. Follow a groove to a large ledge, then up another groove on the right to finish on a second prominent ledge. The anchors are to the left and up, on the left side of a massive block. A direct variation goes from the first large ledge straight up the headwall to the anchors. Suggested grade 16.
First ascent and bolted by David Tapp January 2010

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts 4m right of ROWLING'S RAMBLE, on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

'''New Route DRACO'S SNAKE 11 (suggested grade) [6B,A]''' 
The start of the route is to the the right of CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS and about 4m lower. Take a path which passes under the start of C&S heading towards one of the descent routes of the crag. Beware the nettle trees! The climb starts up a corner/groove to a large ledge/terrace, then follows another groove onto a face to finish on a comfortable ledge. There are two anchors which only become obvious when topping out.
First ascent: Lize Boshoff January 2010 Bolted by David Tapp

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the top of the prominent gully splitting the hillside. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon. To get to this area follow the path to the Wall of Aglarond and keep going left following the obvious path uphill to the crag which can be seen across the gulley.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 ** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 ** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 26 ***''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''THE NEW BULLY 29 **** [B,A]''' 
Instead of starting in the cave, start from the ground and enjoy the extra 20 moves of pump. The longest line at Chos and the way it should have been opened. Do not pull into the cave for a rest, that would be a grade easier and less pleasing. BB: Wesley Black. FA: Dario Zanon. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''SHADOWFAX (OPEN PROJECT) 33 ish **** [B,A]''' 
Very steep and radical movement; this is a big prize to whoever opens it, one of the best hard lines in SA, it has been tried plenty. Start up the prow down and right of the cave. Originally bolted by Pieter Martin. New start and rebolted by A Pedley.

'''DON'T LET GO 28 *** [BA]''' 
Climb to the chains of Don't Deck and rail out left. Head through the three roofs and top out. Make sure you don't let go! At least 4 60cm slings are required to reduce rope drag.
First Ascent: Brian Weaver (2011)

'''DON'T DECK 23 ** [B,A]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. A classic route.

'''DON'T DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DON'T DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Olver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''SHELOB 24***[B,A]''' 
Starts just right of the tree, a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. First Ascent: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''ANDURIL 30*** [10B,A]''' 
Starts a couple metres right of the cut tree stump. Super cool climbing through the roofs with some effort. Very bouldery. Break through the roof and merge into Fossil Fuel to move through the big roof. First Ascent: Joey Kinder, 2011; BB: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''FOSSIL FUEL 30 *** [B,A]''' 
Benchmark 8a. Starts off the sloping ramp a few metres right of the cut tree stump. Some thin moves tending leftward into a cunning knee bar, then pumpy climbing leads to some final thuggery through the capping roof. First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus). Rebolted in 2009.

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL. I would say this is a suprisingly asthetic line once the draws are up and deffinitly worth getting on, the grade is probably 33/34 so if you capable then give this a try. May be dusty so take a brush along.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 26 (7b) ** [6D,A]''' 
The last well chalked climb on the right of the crag. This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 and is still 26.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag, to the right of the prominent gully splitting the hillside.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SMEAGOL 22 [?B,A]''' 
This route goes up the arete halfway between the unknown route and Sauron. Also left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''MIDDLE EARTH 12 [?B,A]''' 
Immediately right of Smeagol. Starts in or just right of the recess 5m left of Sauron.
First Ascent: 2008, Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. The hanger is missing from the final bolt (Jan 2010), causing quite a lead-out to the chains (crux) with the potential of decking on the ledge below. Climbers pushing their grades beware!
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

Waterval Boven

2012-01-26T18:35:40Z

Brianweaver: /* Add New Routes below: */

The Chosspile

2011-09-02T12:13:33Z

Brianweaver: /* Lord of The Rings */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Compact Quartzite

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==
Please adhere to under mentioned access arrangements religiously. The Chosspile was closed due to a spate of muggings and later re-opened following negotiations with the landowners and huge effort from the climbing community led by Neil Margetts and friends.

Some of the history:
*[http://www.climb.co.za/2011/01/chosspile-safety-temporary-closure Temporary Closure in place for the Chosspile]
*[http://www.climb.co.za/2011/04/chosspile-rehab-project-phase-4 Chosspile Rehab Project Phase 4]
*[http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7030 Choss Work Meet this Sunday 22 may 2011 (and re-opening notice)]

'''Procedure for climbers or walkers at Chosspile'''
* Every person must first report to Mount Amanzi and sign the indemnity
* Every person must pay R30 (Those who want full access to all facilities of Mount Amanzi such as heated pool, restaurant etc. pay R55, see www.mountamanzi.co.za)
* Those who buy year passes must have their name on the list. Their pass expires when the date expires.
* Every person must be a member or accompany a member of one of the following clubs who must show the membership card with current date sticker on reverse:
** Mountain Club of South Africa
** South African National Climbing Federation
** University Student Card with their climbing club sticker on the reverse of the current year. (Pretoria Univ, WITS, UJ, Potch Univ, UKZN, Rhodes, UCT )
*** Note: These university clubs can gain free entrance if they take groups of under privileged people climbing. They also get a number of free entrance credits. This must be arranged in advance with Mount Amanzi.
* Each member may take one guest, who must also sign and pay R30.
* There is a guard at the crags who gets R5 per visitor, you may tip him additionally if you wish.

Please stick to these rules to keep the access open and the crag safe.

[[File:Chosspile.jpg|center]]

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the leftmost part of The Chosspile. It lies uphill from the ablutions as you drive into the usual parking spot. The best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m turn '''left''' at a T-junction in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MYRTLE 20 *** [7D,A]''' 
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''New Route -- SALAZAR suggested grade 18''' 
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.
First ascent: February 2010 Daniel Hannah, bolted by David Tapp

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
Start 2m to the right of SALAZAR. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make an early ground fall less likely.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''THE BLOODY BARON 15*** [12B,A]''' 
Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''QUIDDITCH 23**** [7B,A]''' (Suggested consensus grade 22)
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''New Route -- THE BALLS OF HAGRID suggested grade 20 [9B,A]''' 
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
First ascent: David Tapp January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts

'''New Route -- THE SLAB OF SNAPE suggested grade 16 [15B,A]''' 
The first route on the main face.
Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under the overhang and up the slab (crux) to the chains.
'''PLEASE NOTE: 60m rope essential, 15 quickdraws.''' 
First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts/David Tapp

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''A variation of Slitherin 18''' heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CROOKSHANKS 16*** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Step up right onto a ledge to clip the first bolt. Move left and then up. Fun climbing, with the last bit the crux. F.A. Neil Margetts 2007

Approximately 8m to the right is...

'''New Route ROWLING'S RAMBLE 13 (suggested grade) [6D,A]''' 
Start to the right of a big green bush. Follow a groove to a large ledge, then up another groove on the right to finish on a second prominent ledge. The anchors are to the left and up, on the left side of a massive block. A direct variation goes from the first large ledge straight up the headwall to the anchors. Suggested grade 16.
First ascent and bolted by David Tapp January 2010

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts 4m right of ROWLING'S RAMBLE, on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

'''New Route DRACO'S SNAKE 11 (suggested grade) [6B,A]''' 
The start of the route is to the the right of CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS and about 4m lower. Take a path which passes under the start of C&S heading towards one of the descent routes of the crag. Beware the nettle trees! The climb starts up a corner/groove to a large ledge/terrace, then follows another groove onto a face to finish on a comfortable ledge. There are two anchors which only become obvious when topping out.
First ascent: Lize Boshoff January 2010 Bolted by David Tapp

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the top of the prominent gully splitting the hillside. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon. To get to this area follow the path to the Wall of Aglarond and keep going left following the obvious path uphill to the crag which can be seen across the gulley.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''DON'T LET GO 28 *** [BA]''' 
Climb to the chains of Don't Deck and rail out left. Head through the three roofs and top out. Make sure you don't let go! At least 4 60cm slings are required to reduce rope drag.
First Ascent: Brian Weaver (2011)

'''DON'T DECK 23 ** [B,A]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. A classic route.

'''DON'T DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DON'T DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Olver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''SHELOB 24***[B,A]''' 
Starts just right of the tree, a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. First Ascent: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''ANDURIL 31*** [10B,A]''' 
Super cool climbing through the roofs with some effort. Very bouldery. Break through the roof and merge into Fossil Fuel to move through the big roof. First Ascent: Joey Kinder, 2011; BB: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''FOSSIL FUEL 31 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag, to the right of the prominent gully splitting the hillside.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SMEAGOL 22 [?B,A]''' 
This route goes up the arete halfway between the unknown route and Sauron. Also left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''MIDDLE EARTH 12 [?B,A]''' 
Immediately right of Smeagol. Starts in or just right of the recess 5m left of Sauron.
First Ascent: 2008, Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. The hanger is missing from the final bolt (Jan 2010), causing quite a lead-out to the chains (crux) with the potential of decking on the ledge below. Climbers pushing their grades beware!
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

Waterval Boven

2011-06-06T11:22:54Z

Brianweaver: /* Add New Routes below: */

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-05-19T12:01:49Z

Brianweaver: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of 1 May 2011'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png]]

Building in top left corner is the ablution block in the caravan park. Trail begins at a "White Spot" of paint on a rock under the trees. Follow the dots to the various areas.

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]
Swatting Mosquitos: 7A. Start on thin crimps and head up slopers. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

Farside Traverse: 7A+. Start as for Swatting Mosquitos and head right avoiding the big ledge at the top. Top out as for Midway Traverse. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Midway Traverse: 6c+. Begin on square hold, move up and traverse right on slopey holds above the roof. Top out to the right on big ledges. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Unknown Dyno: 6C. Start to the left of the tree on crimps, just to upper ledge and top out. FA: PUT YOUR NAME HERE!!

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

Blindside Arete: 7C+. Begin with left hand in small undercling on the edge of roof, right hand in the slot crimp. Pull up, move up and left. Top out on flat holds on top. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

Acrophobia: 7C+. Begin hugging the feature. Work your way up through the overhang and top out. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right until you down-climb after topping out. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-05-19T11:59:13Z

Brianweaver: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of 1 May 2011'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png]]

Building in top left corner is the ablution block in the caravan park. Trail begins at a "White Spot" of paint on a rock under the trees. Follow the dots to the various areas.

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]
Swatting Mosquitos: 7A. Start on thin crimps and head up slopers. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

Farside Traverse: 7A+. Start as for Swatting Mosquitos and head right avoiding the big ledge at the top. Top out as for Midway Traverse. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Midway Traverse: 6c+. Begin on square hold, move up and traverse right on slopey holds above the roof. Top out to the right on big ledges. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Unknown Dyno: 6C. Start to the left of the tree on crimps, just to upper ledge and top out. FA: PUT YOUR NAME HERE!!

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]
Blindside Arete: 7C+. Begin with left hand in small undercling on the edge of roof, right hand in the slot crimp. Pull up, move up and left. Top out on flat holds on top. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]
Acrophobia: 7C+. Begin hugging the feature. Work your way up through the overhang and top out. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right until you down-climb after topping out. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-05-19T11:57:38Z

Brianweaver: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of 1 May 2011'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png]]

Building in top left corner is the ablution block in the caravan park. Trail begins at a "White Spot" of paint on a rock under the trees. Follow the dots to the various areas.

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]
Swatting Mosquitos: 7A. Start on thin crimps and head up slopers. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.
Farside Traverse: 7A+. Start as for Swatting Mosquitos and head right avoiding the big ledge at the top. Top out as for Midway Traverse. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.
Midway Traverse: 6c+. Begin on square hold, move up and traverse right on slopey holds above the roof. Top out to the right on big ledges. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.
Unknown Dyno: 6C. Start to the left of the tree on crimps, just to upper ledge and top out. FA: PUT YOUR NAME HERE!!

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]
Blindside Arete: 7C+. Begin with left hand in small undercling on the edge of roof, right hand in the slot crimp. Pull up, move up and left. Top out on flat holds on top. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]
Acrophobia: 7C+. Begin hugging the feature. Work your way up through the overhang and top out. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right until you down-climb after topping out. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-05-19T11:41:03Z

Brianweaver: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of 1 May 2011'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png]]

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-05-19T11:39:24Z

Brianweaver: /* Getting there */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of 1 May 2011'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png

2011-05-19T11:34:01Z

Brianweaver:

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-05-02T15:07:19Z

Brianweaver: /* Access rules and arrangements */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R5,40.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of 1 May 2011'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (owners):
* Frik: 083 627 1422
* Ellen: 083 626 6512

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|New route||?||?D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. All bolts placed, missing some hangers. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

Waterval Boven

2011-05-01T14:18:53Z

Brianweaver: /* Add New Routes below: */

The Chosspile

2011-05-01T14:10:50Z

Brianweaver: /* Lord of The Rings */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Compact Quartzite

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==

''' - TEMPORARY CLOSURE IN PLACE ''' See: [http://www.climb.co.za/2011/01/chosspile-safety-temporary-closure Temporary Closure in place for the Chosspile]

'''The owners of Chosspile (or Harties) have contacted us and are not happy about climbers accessing to climbing from the dam wall side. Please go through the main entrance at the picnic site and pay the R50.'''

To get to the crags you need to get into the Crocodile River picnic site, usually this costs R50 per car. No booking is necessary. From the dam wall driving away from the quaint town of Hartebeespoort turn right at the first 4-way stop street (Engen garage on your left). Follow the road for about 1-2 km until you cross over a river. Immediately after the bridge, turn right into the picnic area entrance. Pay the guard and follow the road to the right then straight. Park when the road runs out.
For all the crag sections walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m there's a T-junction in the path. For Harry Potter go left, for Lord of the Rings and the Wall of Aglarond turn right. See relevant sections for details.

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the leftmost part of The Chosspile. It lies uphill from the ablutions as you drive into the usual parking spot. The best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m turn '''left''' at a T-junction in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MYRTLE 20 *** [7D,A]''' 
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''New Route -- SALAZAR suggested grade 18''' 
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.
First ascent: February 2010 Daniel Hannah, bolted by David Tapp

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
Start 2m to the right of SALAZAR. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make an early ground fall less likely.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''THE BLOODY BARON 15*** [12B,A]''' 
Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''QUIDDITCH 23**** [7B,A]''' (Suggested consensus grade 22)
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''New Route -- THE BALLS OF HAGRID suggested grade 20 [9B,A]''' 
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
First ascent: David Tapp January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts

'''New Route -- THE SLAB OF SNAPE suggested grade 16 [15B,A]''' 
The first route on the main face.
Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under the overhang and up the slab (crux) to the chains.
'''PLEASE NOTE: 60m rope essential, 15 quickdraws.''' 
First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts/David Tapp

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''A variation of Slitherin 18''' heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CROOKSHANKS 16*** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Step up right onto a ledge to clip the first bolt. Move left and then up. Fun climbing, with the last bit the crux. F.A. Neil Margetts 2007

Approximately 8m to the right is...

'''New Route ROWLING'S RAMBLE 13 (suggested grade) [6D,A]''' 
Start to the right of a big green bush. Follow a groove to a large ledge, then up another groove on the right to finish on a second prominent ledge. The anchors are to the left and up, on the left side of a massive block. A direct variation goes from the first large ledge straight up the headwall to the anchors. Suggested grade 16.
First ascent and bolted by David Tapp January 2010

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts 4m right of ROWLING'S RAMBLE, on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

'''New Route DRACO'S SNAKE 11 (suggested grade) [6B,A]''' 
The start of the route is to the the right of CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS and about 4m lower. Take a path which passes under the start of C&S heading towards one of the descent routes of the crag. Beware the nettle trees! The climb starts up a corner/groove to a large ledge/terrace, then follows another groove onto a face to finish on a comfortable ledge. There are two anchors which only become obvious when topping out.
First ascent: Lize Boshoff January 2010 Bolted by David Tapp

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the top of the prominent gully splitting the hillside. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon. To get to this area follow the path to the Wall of Aglarond and keep going left following the obvious path uphill to the crag which can be seen across the gulley.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''DON'T LET GO 28 *** [BA]''' 
Climb to the chains of Don't Deck and rail out left. Head through the three roofs and top out. Make sure you don't let go! At least 4 60cm slings are required to reduce rope drag.
First Ascent: Brian Weaver (2011)

'''DONT DECK 23 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark olver. A classic route.

'''DONT DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DONT DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Oliver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''SHELOB''' 24***[B,A]''' 
Starts just right of the tree, a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. First Ascent: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''ANDURIL PROJECT [B]''' 
The line in between Fossil and Shelob grade prob about 29. Oh It's open. Super cool climbing through the roofs with some effort. Very bouldery. No chains at this point in time. (BB Wesley Black) Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''FOSSIL FUEL 31 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag, to the right of the prominent gully splitting the hillside. Follow the main walk-in then turn '''right''' at the T-junction. Follow this path along the side of the concrete sluice channel, heading to the dam wall. Take care not to fall in! Parts of the path will collapse one day. The path trends uphill away from the channel. Continue on this path and you should be heading for the area right of the top of gulley. It will lead you to the crag.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SMEAGOL 22 [?B,A]''' 
This route goes up the arete halfway between the unknown route and Sauron. Also left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''MIDDLE EARTH 12 [?B,A]''' 
Immediately right of Smeagol. Starts in or just right of the recess 5m left of Sauron.
First Ascent: 2008, Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. The hanger is missing from the final bolt (Jan 2010), causing quite a lead-out to the chains (crux) with the potential of decking on the ledge below. Climbers pushing their grades beware!
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

The Chosspile

2011-05-01T14:09:10Z

Brianweaver: /* Lord of The Rings */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Compact Quartzite

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==

''' - TEMPORARY CLOSURE IN PLACE ''' See: [http://www.climb.co.za/2011/01/chosspile-safety-temporary-closure Temporary Closure in place for the Chosspile]

'''The owners of Chosspile (or Harties) have contacted us and are not happy about climbers accessing to climbing from the dam wall side. Please go through the main entrance at the picnic site and pay the R50.'''

To get to the crags you need to get into the Crocodile River picnic site, usually this costs R50 per car. No booking is necessary. From the dam wall driving away from the quaint town of Hartebeespoort turn right at the first 4-way stop street (Engen garage on your left). Follow the road for about 1-2 km until you cross over a river. Immediately after the bridge, turn right into the picnic area entrance. Pay the guard and follow the road to the right then straight. Park when the road runs out.
For all the crag sections walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m there's a T-junction in the path. For Harry Potter go left, for Lord of the Rings and the Wall of Aglarond turn right. See relevant sections for details.

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the leftmost part of The Chosspile. It lies uphill from the ablutions as you drive into the usual parking spot. The best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m turn '''left''' at a T-junction in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MYRTLE 20 *** [7D,A]''' 
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''New Route -- SALAZAR suggested grade 18''' 
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.
First ascent: February 2010 Daniel Hannah, bolted by David Tapp

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
Start 2m to the right of SALAZAR. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make an early ground fall less likely.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''THE BLOODY BARON 15*** [12B,A]''' 
Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''QUIDDITCH 23**** [7B,A]''' (Suggested consensus grade 22)
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''New Route -- THE BALLS OF HAGRID suggested grade 20 [9B,A]''' 
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
First ascent: David Tapp January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts

'''New Route -- THE SLAB OF SNAPE suggested grade 16 [15B,A]''' 
The first route on the main face.
Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under the overhang and up the slab (crux) to the chains.
'''PLEASE NOTE: 60m rope essential, 15 quickdraws.''' 
First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts/David Tapp

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''A variation of Slitherin 18''' heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CROOKSHANKS 16*** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Step up right onto a ledge to clip the first bolt. Move left and then up. Fun climbing, with the last bit the crux. F.A. Neil Margetts 2007

Approximately 8m to the right is...

'''New Route ROWLING'S RAMBLE 13 (suggested grade) [6D,A]''' 
Start to the right of a big green bush. Follow a groove to a large ledge, then up another groove on the right to finish on a second prominent ledge. The anchors are to the left and up, on the left side of a massive block. A direct variation goes from the first large ledge straight up the headwall to the anchors. Suggested grade 16.
First ascent and bolted by David Tapp January 2010

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts 4m right of ROWLING'S RAMBLE, on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

'''New Route DRACO'S SNAKE 11 (suggested grade) [6B,A]''' 
The start of the route is to the the right of CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS and about 4m lower. Take a path which passes under the start of C&S heading towards one of the descent routes of the crag. Beware the nettle trees! The climb starts up a corner/groove to a large ledge/terrace, then follows another groove onto a face to finish on a comfortable ledge. There are two anchors which only become obvious when topping out.
First ascent: Lize Boshoff January 2010 Bolted by David Tapp

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the top of the prominent gully splitting the hillside. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon. To get to this area follow the path to the Wall of Aglarond and keep going left following the obvious path uphill to the crag which can be seen across the gulley.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''DON'T LET GO [BA]''' 
Climb to the chains of Don't Deck and rail out left. Head through the three roofs and top out. Make sure you don't let go! At least 4 60cm slings are required to reduce rope drag.
First Ascent: Brian Weaver (2011)

'''DONT DECK 23 **** [B,A,R]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark olver. A classic route.

'''DONT DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DONT DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Oliver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''SHELOB''' 24***[B,A]''' 
Starts just right of the tree, a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. First Ascent: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''ANDURIL PROJECT [B]''' 
The line in between Fossil and Shelob grade prob about 29. Oh It's open. Super cool climbing through the roofs with some effort. Very bouldery. No chains at this point in time. (BB Wesley Black) Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section

'''FOSSIL FUEL 31 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag, to the right of the prominent gully splitting the hillside. Follow the main walk-in then turn '''right''' at the T-junction. Follow this path along the side of the concrete sluice channel, heading to the dam wall. Take care not to fall in! Parts of the path will collapse one day. The path trends uphill away from the channel. Continue on this path and you should be heading for the area right of the top of gulley. It will lead you to the crag.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SMEAGOL 22 [?B,A]''' 
This route goes up the arete halfway between the unknown route and Sauron. Also left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''MIDDLE EARTH 12 [?B,A]''' 
Immediately right of Smeagol. Starts in or just right of the recess 5m left of Sauron.
First Ascent: 2008, Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. The hanger is missing from the final bolt (Jan 2010), causing quite a lead-out to the chains (crux) with the potential of decking on the ledge below. Climbers pushing their grades beware!
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

Bobbejaans Berg

2011-03-31T14:57:40Z

Brianweaver: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R5,40.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R30 per person per day'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (owners):
* Frik: 083 627 1422
* Ellen: 083 626 6512

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||.||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|New route||?||?D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. All bolts placed, missing some hangers. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg

2011-03-31T14:55:43Z

Brianweaver: Acrophobia 7C+ FA: Brian Weaver March 2011

Acrophobia 7C+ FA: Brian Weaver March 2011

File:Warmup Area.jpeg

2011-03-31T14:50:52Z

Brianweaver:

File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg

2011-03-31T14:47:54Z

Brianweaver:

File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg

2011-03-31T14:47:27Z

Brianweaver: Blindside Arete 7C+ FA: Adam Ludford March 2011

Blindside Arete 7C+ FA: Adam Ludford March 2011

File:The Blindside Area.jpeg

2011-03-31T14:41:38Z

Brianweaver: Blindside Area

Blindside Area

File:Acrophobia.jpg

2011-03-31T14:13:19Z

Brianweaver: Acrophobia 7C+ FA: Brian Weaver March 2011

Acrophobia 7C+ FA: Brian Weaver March 2011

File:Blindside Arete.jpeg

2011-03-31T14:07:23Z

Brianweaver: Blindside Arete 7C+ FA: Adam Ludford March 2011

Blindside Arete 7C+ FA: Adam Ludford March 2011

File:Blindside Area.jpeg

2011-03-31T14:00:11Z

Brianweaver: Blindside Boulder

Blindside Boulder

Waterval Boven

2010-08-11T20:27:22Z

Brianweaver: /* Baboon Buttress */

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== Getting There ==

<googlemap lat="-25.642" lon="30.3288" zoom="11">
-25.642, 30.3288, Waterval-Boven, South Africa
</googlemap>

If you are coming from outside Gauteng or Mpumalunga, the best city to fly to is either Nelspruit or Johannesburg. Nelspruit is closer to Waterval Boven, but flying to Johannesburg may be cheaper.

* From Nelspruit: follow the sign for Machadodorp, Witbank or even Johannesburg. Once on the N4 keep going straight for about 95km and take turn off on your left for Waterval Boven.

* From Johannesburg: drive east on the N12 (take direction Boksburg out of the airport), then follow the N4 to Waterval Boven.

For bookings and info, visit the [http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope] office next to the third stop sign after entering the town of Waterval Boven.

For pics of 'Boven visit the [http://www.climbing.co.za/gallery2/index.php?cat=11 ClimbZA Gallery]

== Accommodation and Food==

A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags ([http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets]) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals. 
[http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope]: Tel: 013 257 0363, climb@rocrope.com

The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4547]. Rather stay at the [http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets] on top of the Wonderland crags. If you're looking for alternatives in Boven check out the local accommodation booking site [http://www.mpumalangahighlands.travel]

Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.

== Safety ==
'''Malaria''' 
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.

'''Snakes and spiders''' 
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.

'''Crime''' 
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.

There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).

'''Emergency Phone Numbers''' 
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203.
This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.

Local Rescue Services:
*072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)
*082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg
*013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police
*013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital

Also useful:
*10111 - SA Police
*10117 - Ambulance
*082 911 - Emergency

== Rest Day Activities ==

''' Krugerhof ''' 
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).

''' Sudwala Caves ''' 
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.

''' The Kruger National Park ''' 
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.

''' Hiking ''' 
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.

''' Bouldering ''' 
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.

''' Paragliding ''' 
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.

''' Mountain Biking ''' 
The hills around town offer exciting mountain biking opportunities with existing trails.

''' Horse Riding ''' 
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.

''' Fly Fishing ''' 
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.

== Route Updates ==

These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.

===Waterfall Area===
==== The Last Crag of the Century ====

15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A]
Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.
FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D]
Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
FA: Jens Richter 2005

21) CAFFEINE JITTERS 15 *** [12D]
This route is now rebolted and lots of fun for the WHOLE family!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001 (BB) Jaco Myburgh & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D]
Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.
FA: Bine Tittel 2005

==== The Junkyard ====
82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N]
At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.
FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006

82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N]
Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.
FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N]
Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N]
Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004

85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N]
20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N]
The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.
FA: Jens Richter 2003

85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N]
Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.
FA: Jens Richter 2005

85.6) SCRABBLE 18 *** [N]
Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.
FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003

85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N]
Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N]
30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004

85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N]
Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

===Wonderland===
==== Tranquilitas ====
===== The Creche =====

347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D]
Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007

347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D]
Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.43) MEL 11 *** [8D]
Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.47) ME TARZAN, YOU JANE 16 **** [9D]
Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.5) JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D]
Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.6) CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D]
Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.65) FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D]
Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: Brad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

347.7) EXCUSE ME, WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D]
Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007
===== Good And Evil Area =====
355.5) NEW ROUTE 12 ???
This route starts up on a ledge halfway up the crag, right of COOL RUNNINGS. [Please provide the details if you opened this line.]

===== Malaria Area =====

355.6) NITRO'S TICK FEVER 25 *** [10?D]
A long term project opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Jan ???? BB: Neil Margetts

357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D]
Starts about 20m left of SWAT Team. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004

357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D]
A great line just right of LIT. Head into the corner and race for the chains using some technical know how. Originally opened at 26 but the grade seems to have settled at 27, for now... FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.6) ELDORADO 28 **** [11D]
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Concensus is easy 28 (7c). FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.7) INCA TRAIL 27 **** [11Dish]
A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line climbs better than it looks, weaving its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2009

357.8) S.W.A.T. Team 24 **** [10D]
A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted (its now safe) and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003

357.9) FEVER 29 *** [10D]
Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a roof. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Beta will help.
FA: Dewald Kloppers 2009

363.3) ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D]
Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.4) EVELYN 18 *** [12D]
Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.45) BALANCE OF POWER 22 **** [8D]
Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

363.5) ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D]
A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

===== Grunt Area =====

363.6) FUG 22 **** [?D]
New route well indicated on the rock. FA: Unknown 2005

363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D]
One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007

363.7) ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D]
The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: Unknown 2005

363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D]
The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005

367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D]
Starts on a pile of rocks 3m right of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003

367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D]
Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

===== Rubik's Cube Boulders =====

369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D]
Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

369.4) PIT FIGHTER 31 *****
Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. Probably 7C+ boulder. Fantastic power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009

369.5) RUBIK'S CUBE 28 **** [6D]
Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

==== Baboon Buttress ====
369.1) AFTER THOUGHT 16 * [5D]
Climbs the corner crack situated to the left of the descent gully (when facing the bottom of the gully). FA: Darryl Margetts August 2009

Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.

Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully

Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[7D] [Brian Weaver] Starts off of the lowest boulders in the gully. Arcs right up the right hand face.

369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D]
First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

369.5) TRENCH TOWN 15 *** [5D] DRIES
Slab on arête in descent gully. FA:C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006

369.6) ADAM 22 **** [6D]
From the ledge halfway down the descent gully, climb slanting feature. FA:Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007

370.3) ONE LOVE 22 *** [5D]
Climb the face just right of the cave. FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006

370.35) ALMOST USCHI 22 **** [6D]
Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007

370.4) GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 **** [9D] DRIES
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006

370.47) RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D]
From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.5) LUCKY LEILA 22 *** [12] DRIES
Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004

370.55) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 1 17 ** [5D]
From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.56) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 2 21 *** [8D]
Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.6) QINA 19 *** [???] DRIES
Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

370.65) NO MORE DYNAMO 20 *** [8D]
Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

371.3) SLAVE SPECIES 25 *** [6D] DRY
Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

371.5) PRETENDERS 24 **** [8D] DRY
Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007

371.6) GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *** [9D] DRIES
Shares first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at original anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004

372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS
Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

372.4) LEGENDS 25 *** [6D] DRY
Nice face climb, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.5) JAMANI 19 *** [6D] DRY
Fine dihedral with a good crack. Finish below the roof. FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006

372.6) SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D]
Long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrament. FA: Alard Hufner 2007

372.6(a) SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D]
Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES, climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008

372.6(b) THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D]
Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008

372.6(c) TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D]
Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009

==== Rainy Day Wall ====
372.7(1) WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D]
Starts about 2m left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008.

372.7) HEROES 26 *** [9D] DRY
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this and up the wall above to below the upper roof. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.7a) Closed Project
A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending project. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt June 2010

372.7b) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Anchors placed June 2008. Plan is to head for the obvious arete.

372.8) DREAMERS 23 ** [11D] DRY
Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 ** [14D]
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.

372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D]
Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.

372.8c) Closed Project (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)
Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash

372.8d) Closed Project (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)
Starts as for S.T.P. but then go further left up the face to the ledge, then up the left side of the open book to the roof and continue straight up the face to the top. K. Thrash

372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D]
Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. A 60m rope gets you back to the ledge, a 50m rope is too SHORT!!!!!! Two extra lower offs have been added to the ledge to make it a lot easier to clean and get back down onto the ground.
FA: Glenn Harrison 2007

373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 ****
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.

373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 28 **** [lots]
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring

==== The God No! Wall ====

373.3a)RODAN (Closed Project)
Closed Project of A Pedley's.

373.3b)GODZILLA 31 ***** [14D]
Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. Not quite 8b. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.

373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D]
The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29. 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner

373.5) THE BEAST aka THE ANIMAL TRAP 32 ***** [16D]
Start up Monster and take the rigt hand break at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'animal trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Low in the grade. Brilliant. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008

373.5b) SPACE CADET 30 **** [18D]
8a for the effort! A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. Takes a cunning line through very steep ground to gain access to a wonderful headwall. A bit of everything from technical arete, burly roof, knarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roofy section - that way drag is negligable. Half height lower off. 70 m rope needed to lower in one. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2009.

373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 * [12D]
Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008

373.7) JUGGERNAUT 31 *** [12D]
Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt. FA Marc Flex Efune June 2009 (BB Mark Millar).

373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D]
Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008

373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 * [4D]
A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright

373.9b) WHO NEEDS LUCKY COWS 31 *** (12D)
Climb Choc Eclair then continue over the roof and up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. FA: Daniel Gebel , September 2009.

373.9c) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D]
This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007

373.9d) TOKOLOSIE 30 **** [14D]
Sustanined and with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.

373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 **** (13D)
Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Solid at the grade. Top third gets dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.

373.11) CHANGING GEARS 24,23,25 *** [12D]
This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.
FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 BB: Gustav 2009

375.4) VORPAL SWORD 31 ***** [16D]
The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb. Need a 70 m rope.
FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008

375.5) HELL YEAH! 27 *** [17D]
A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route.
FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006

377.1) BURNING SPEAR 28 *** [17D]
Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.
FA: Marc Efune Oct 2009 BB: Reiny zee German 2009

378.1) BITTERGAL 22 *** [14D]
This climb is situated to the right of Alice in Grannyland. As with Brolloks, the first few meters of climbing is on dolerite, changing to quartzite higher up.
FA: Greg Borman Feb 2009

378.2) BROLLOKS 19 ***** [14D]
Since being opened, this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in the Wonderland area. Starts off the block five meteres to the right of Bittergal, from the ledge follow the bolts up to your left; sustained.
FA: Greg Borman Jan 2009

378.3) GROENIE DIE DRAKIE 21 **** [13D]
Just right of Brolloks. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

378.4) SAREL SEEMONSTER 18 ****[12D]
Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

==== Hallucinogen Wall ====
391.5) TWO CAM SAM 23 ***
Start in the corner up to loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007

394.5) MANSLAVES 15 ***
Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D]
Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003

395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D]
Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006 BB: Philippe Gaboriaud

CLOUD CITY 22 *** [10D]
Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang,pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts 2010.

407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D]
Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004

LOCH NESS 25 *** [7D]
Start about 1,5m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face: Ken Thrash 2010

MORSE CODE 27 *** (N)
Begins with a boulder problem following the crack upwards 6m right of Moon Dance. FA: Brian Weaver December 2009

424.4) SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D]
Takes the trad line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter 2003

424.5) THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D]
The hidden line 4m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004

439.5) CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D]
Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.5) (THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D]
Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.7) MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D]
Climb the grove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

443.5) DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D]
Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005

447.1) UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 *** [7D]
Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash

CLOCKWORK ORANGE 16 ** [9D]
Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards FA:D Margetts and A Margetts 2008

CLOCKWORK ORANGE VARIATION 14 ** [8D]
Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt FA:D Margetts and A Margetts 2009

FADJA'S REVENGE 9 * [5D]
5 meters to the right of the Ladder FA: D Margetts A Margetts 2008

NEW CRAG....BREAKFAST CRAG,This crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the end of Hallucinogen wall

ZOOTER 17 *** [9D]
Climb a short face,move right to a layback and continue to chains FA:D Margetts 2008

GOLDEN PIE 17 *** [7D]
Climb layback crack FA: D Margetts A Margetts 2008

CHICKEN WING 15 *** [8D]
Climb short face and arete FA: D Margetts K Thrash 2008

SPARE RIB 12 ** [7D]
Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing FA:D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts.

CRACK UP 15 *** [5D]
Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib FA: D Margetts and A Margetts.

==== Reunion Wall ====
On the walk from Hallucinogen to Superbowl a small crag is found on the left.

457.4) I DEXE 24 **** [10D]
The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel 2005

457.5) CACTUS PALLACE 23 ***** [10D]
The obvious bolted line diagonally up right. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004

457.6) FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 **** [8D]
The parallel route to the right of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Jens Richter 2005

==== The Superbowl ====
457.7) KIMCHI 27 **** [11D]
FA: Dan Honeymann 2007

457.8) DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 *** [13D]
Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005

460.1) Project. Dewald Kloppers

461) ***Correction***
GIANTS, back down to 26, if you use the correct beta!

461.9) KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D]
Starts on RUDE BUSHMAN and then go left. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D]
Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007
(PS: Start on this route and climb over onto RUDE BUSHMAN for an alternative 23 and do the vice versa for a bit more of a solid 25 experience if you want!)

463.5) HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D]
Between Lotter's Desire and Tugela Blue. An interesting line that requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork and a bit of intestinal fortitude. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005

464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D]
Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006

464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D]
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004

471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D]
New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. This block has been REMOVED and is now safe to climb. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006

471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D]
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003

==== The Theater ====
503) KINDRED SPIRITS 25 **** [9D]
Now re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. A GREAT line, now with shiny new bolts! Climb it. FA: Grant Murray '92

==== The Right Wing ====
About 100 m further along from the Theatre

507) JOY DIVISION 30 *** (11D).
Chain added and no trad placement needed. Heads up the blank textured wall. An introduction to hard Boven crimping. Reachy. Originally graded 29! FA: Richard Lord 1992.

==== The Stone Philosopher Area ====
This crag is around the corner from JOY DIVISION.

507.4) COLLAPSE OF REASON 22 *** [10D]
The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.5) RISE OF FAITH 22 *** [10D]
The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.6) UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D]
Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007

A list of [[routes at Boven that need re-bolting]] is posted here, add anything you think needs work. The MCSA is sponsoring bolts on a continual basis.

List of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting

2010-03-29T15:50:41Z

Brianweaver:

'''Editing List of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting'''

* SUPERBOWL: Penny Royal Tea [2 anchors] Triptolactic Fairy Tales [2 anchors, multiple bolts]
* TRANQUILITAS: Beat them Dead [2 anchors]
* GAPER BUTRESS: The Gift [1 anchor]
* THE FOUNDRY: Jump In The Fire [6 bolts, 2 anchors] Mercury Rev [10 bolts, 2 anchors] Smeltdown [2 anchors]
* THE COVEN: Devil In a Cauldron [7 bolts, 2 anchors] Shout at the Devil [7 bolts, 2 anchors]
* THE THEARE: Heart of China [Remove old chains, remove/replace 1 bolt]

List of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting

2010-03-29T15:49:39Z

Brianweaver: Undo revision 795 by Brianweaver (Talk)

'''Editing List of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting'''

* SUPERBOWL: Penny Royal Tea [2 anchors]
* SUPERBOWL: Triptolactic Fairy Tales [2 anchors, multiple bolts]
* TRANQUILITAS: Beat them Dead [2 anchors]
* GAPER BUTRESS: The Gift [1 anchor]
* THE FOUNDRY: Jump In The Fire [6 bolts, 2 anchors] Mercury Rev [10 bolts, 2 anchors] Smeltdown [2 anchors]
* THE COVEN: Devil In a Cauldron [7 bolts, 2 anchors] Shout at the Devil [7 bolts, 2 anchors]
* THE THEARE: Heart of China [Remove old chains, remove/replace 1 bolt]

List of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting

2010-03-29T15:47:57Z

Brianweaver:

'''Editing List of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting'''

* SUPERBOWL: Penny Royal Tea [2 anchors]
Triptolactic Fairy Tales (2 anchors, multiple bolts)
* TRANQUILITAS: Beat them Dead [2 anchors]
* GAPER BUTRESS: The Gift [1 anchor]
* THE FOUNDRY: Jump In The Fire [6 bolts, 2 anchors] Mercury Rev [10 bolts, 2 anchors] Smeltdown [2 anchors]
* THE COVEN: Devil In a Cauldron [7 bolts, 2 anchors] Shout at the Devil [7 bolts, 2 anchors]
* THE THEARE: Heart of China [Remove old chains, remove/replace 1 bolt]

Waterval Boven

2010-02-01T17:05:51Z

Brianweaver: /* Hallucinogen Wall */

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== Getting There ==

<googlemap lat="-25.642" lon="30.3288" zoom="11">
-25.642, 30.3288, Waterval-Boven, South Africa
</googlemap>

If you are coming from outside Gauteng or Mpumalunga, the best city to fly to is either Nelspruit or Johannesburg. Nelspruit is closer to Waterval Boven, but flying to Johannesburg may be cheaper.

* From Nelspruit: follow the sign for Machadodorp, Witbank or even Johannesburg. Once on the N4 keep going straight for about 95km and take turn off on your left for Waterval Boven.

* From Johannesburg: drive east on the N12 (take direction Boksburg out of the airport), then follow the N4 to Waterval Boven.

For bookings and info, visit the [http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope] office next to the third stop sign after entering the town of Waterval Boven.

For pics of 'Boven visit the [http://www.climbing.co.za/gallery2/index.php?cat=11 ClimbZA Gallery]

== Accommodation and Food==

A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags ([http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets]) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals. 
[http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope]: Tel: 013 257 0363, climb@rocrope.com

The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4547]. Rather stay at the [http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets] on top of the Wonderland crags. If you're looking for alternatives in Boven check out the local accommodation booking site [http://www.mpumalangahighlands.travel]

Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.

== Safety ==
'''Malaria''' 
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.

'''Snakes and spiders''' 
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.

'''Crime''' 
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.

There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).

'''Emergency Phone Numbers''' 
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203.
This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.

Local Rescue Services:
*072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)
*082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg
*013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police
*013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital

Also useful:
*10111 - SA Police
*10117 - Ambulance
*082 911 - Emergency

== Rest Day Activities ==

''' Krugerhof ''' 
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).

''' Sudwala Caves ''' 
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.

''' The Kruger National Park ''' 
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.

''' Hiking ''' 
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.

''' Bouldering ''' 
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.

''' Paragliding ''' 
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.

''' Mountain Biking ''' 
The hills around town offer exciting mountain biking opportunities with existing trails.

''' Horse Riding ''' 
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.

''' Fly Fishing ''' 
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.

== Route Updates ==

These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.

===Waterfall Area===
==== The Last Crag of the Century ====

15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A]
Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.
FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D]
Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
FA: Jens Richter 2005

21) CAFFEINE JITTERS 15 *** [12D]
This route is now rebolted and lots of fun for the WHOLE family!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001 (BB) Jaco Myburgh & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D]
Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.
FA: Bine Tittel 2005

==== The Junkyard ====
82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N]
At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.
FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006

82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N]
Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.
FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N]
Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N]
Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004

85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N]
20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N]
The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.
FA: Jens Richter 2003

85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N]
Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.
FA: Jens Richter 2005

85.6) SCRABBLE 18 *** [N]
Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.
FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003

85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N]
Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N]
30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004

85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N]
Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

===Wonderland===
==== Tranquilitas ====
===== The Creche =====

347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D]
Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007

347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D]
Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.43) MEL 11 *** [8D]
Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.47) ME TARZAN, YOU JANE 16 **** [9D]
Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.5) JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D]
Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.6) CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D]
Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.65) FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D]
Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: Brad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

347.7) EXCUSE ME, WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D]
Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007
===== Good And Evil Area =====
355.5) NEW ROUTE 12 ???
This route starts up on a ledge halfway up the crag, right of COOL RUNNINGS. [Please provide the details if you opened this line.]

===== Malaria Area =====

355.6) NITRO'S TICK FEVER 25 *** [10?D]
A long term project opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Jan ???? BB: Neil Margetts

357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D]
Starts about 20m left of SWAT Team. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004

357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D]
A great line just right of LIT. Head into the corner and race for the chains using some technical know how. Originally opened at 26 but the grade seems to have settled at 27, for now... FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.6) ELDORADO 28 **** [11D]
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery take you to the chains. Concensus is easy 28 (7c). FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.7) INCA TRAIL 27 **** [11Dish]
A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line climbs better than it looks, weaving its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2009

357.8) S.W.A.T. Team 23 *** [10D]
Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003

357.9) FEVER 29 *** [10D]
Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a roof. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Beta will help.
FA: Dewald Kloppers 2009

363.3) ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D]
Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.4) EVELYN 18 *** [12D]
Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.45) BALANCE OF POWER 22 **** [8D]
Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

363.5) ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D]
A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

===== Grunt Area =====

363.6) FUG 22 **** [?D]
New route well indicated on the rock. FA: Unknown 2005

363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D]
One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007

363.7) ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D]
The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: Unknown 2005

363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D]
The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005

367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D]
Starts on a pile of rocks 3m right of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003

367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D]
Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

===== Rubik's Cube Boulders =====

369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D]
Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

369.4) PIT FIGHTER 31 *****
Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. Probably 7C+ boulder. Fantastic power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009

369.5) RUBIK'S CUBE 28 **** [6D]
Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

==== Baboon Buttress ====
369.1) AFTER THOUGHT 16 * [5D]
Climbs the corner crack situated to the left of the descent gully (when facing the bottom of the gully). FA: Darryl Margetts August 2009

Closed Project: [Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.

Closed Project: [7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully

369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D]
First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

369.5) TRENCH TOWN 15 *** [5D] DRIES
Slab on arête in descent gully. FA:C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006

369.6) ADAM 22 **** [6D]
From the ledge halfway down the descent gully, climb slanting feature. FA:Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007

370.3) ONE LOVE 22 *** [5D]
Climb the face just right of the cave. FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006

370.35) ALMOST USCHI 22 **** [6D]
Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007

370.4) GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 **** [9D] DRIES
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006

370.47) RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D]
From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.5) LUCKY LEILA 22 *** [12] DRIES
Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004

370.55) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 1 17 ** [5D]
From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.56) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 2 21 *** [8D]
Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.6) QINA 19 *** [???] DRIES
Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

370.65) NO MORE DYNAMO 20 *** [8D]
Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

371.3) SLAVE SPECIES 25 *** [6D] DRY
Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

371.5) PRETENDERS 24 **** [8D] DRY
Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007

371.6) GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *** [9D] DRIES
Shares first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at original anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004

372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS
Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

372.4) LEGENDS 25 *** [6D] DRY
Nice face climb, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.5) JAMANI 19 *** [6D] DRY
Fine dihedral with a good crack. Finish below the roof. FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006

372.6) SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D]
Long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrament. FA: Alard Hufner 2007

372.6(a) SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D]
Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES, climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008

372.6(b) THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D]
Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008

372.6(c) TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D]
Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009

==== Rainy Day Wall ====
372.7(1) WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D]
Starts about 2m left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008.

372.7) HEROES 26 *** [9D] DRY
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this and up the wall above to below the upper roof. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.7a) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Anchors placed June 2008. Plan is to head for the obvious arete.

372.8) DREAMERS 23 *** [11D] DRY
Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 *** [14D]
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Grade to be confirmed. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.

372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D]
Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.

372.8c) Closed Project
Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash

372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D]
Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. A 60m rope gets you back to the ledge, a 50m rope is too SHORT!!!!!!
FA: Glenn Harrison 2007

373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 ***
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.

373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 28 *** [lots]
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring

==== The God No! Wall ====

373.3)GODZILLA 32 ***** [14D]
Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.

373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D]
The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner

373.5) THE BEAST aka THE ANIMAL TRAP 32 ***** [16D]
Start up Monster and take the rigt hand break at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'animal trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Low in the grade. Brilliant. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008

373.5b) SPACE CADET 30 **** [18D]
8a for the effort! A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. Takes a cunning line through very steep ground to gain access to a wonderful headwall. A bit of everything from technical arete, burly roof, knarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roofy section - that way drag is negligable. Half height lower off. 70 m rope needed to lower in one. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2009.

373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 * [12D]
Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008

373.7) JUGGERNAUT 31 **** [12D]
Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt. FA Marc Flex Efune June 2009 (BB Mark Millar).

373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D]
Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008

373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 * [4D]
A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright

373.9b) WHO NEEDS LUCKY COWS 31 *** (12D)
Climb Choc Eclair then continue over the roof and up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. FA: Daniel Gebel , September 2009.

373.9c) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D]
This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007

373.9d) TOKOLOSIE 30 ***** [14D]
Sustanined and with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.

373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 **** (13D)
Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Solid at the grade. Top third gets dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.

373.11) CHANGING GEARS 24,23,25 *** [12D]
This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.
FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 BB: Gustav 2009

375.4) VORPAL SWORD 31 ***** [16D]
The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb. Need a 70 m rope.
FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008

375.5) HELL YEAH! 27 *** [17D]
A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route.
FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006

377.1) BURNING SPEAR 28 *** [17D]
Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.
FA: Marc Efune Oct 2009 BB: Reiny zee German 2009

378.1) BITTERGAL 22 *** [14D]
This climb is situated to the right of Alice in Grannyland. As with Brolloks, the first few meters of climbing is on dolerite, changing to quartzite higher up.
FA: Greg Borman Feb 2009

378.2) BROLLOKS 19 **** [14D]
Since being opened, this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in the Wonderland area. Starts off the block five meteres to the right of Bittergal, from the ledge follow the bolts up to your left; sustained.
FA: Greg Borman Jan 2009

378.3) GROENIE DIE DRAKIE 21 **** [13D]
Just right of Brolloks. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

378.4) SAREL SEEMONSTER 18 ****[12D]
Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

==== Hallucinogen Wall ====
391.5) TWO CAM SAM 23 ***
Start in the corner up to loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007

394.5) MANSLAVES 15 ***
Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D]
Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003

395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D]
Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006 BB: Philippe Gaboriaud

407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D]
Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004

PROJECT
2m right of Moon Dance: Ken Thrash 2009

MORSE CODE 27 *** (N)
Begins with a boulder problem following the crack upwards 6m right of Moon Dance. FA: Brian Weaver December 2009

424.4) SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D]
Takes the trad line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter 2003

424.5) THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D]
The hidden line 4m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004

439.5) CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D]
Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.5) (THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D]
Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.7) MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D]
Climb the grove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

443.5) DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D]
Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005

447.1) UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 *** [7D]
Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash

==== Reunion Wall ====
On the walk from Hallucinogen to Superbowl a small crag is found on the left.

457.4) I DEXE 24 **** [10D]
The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel 2005

457.5) CACTUS PALLACE 23 ***** [10D]
The obvious bolted line diagonally up right. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004

457.6) FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 **** [8D]
The parallel route to the right of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Jens Richter 2005

==== The Superbowl ====
457.7) KIMCHI 27 **** [11D]
FA: Dan Honeymann 2007

457.8) DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 *** [13D]
Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005

460.1) Project. Dewald Kloppers

461) ***Correction***
GIANTS, back down to 26, if you use the correct beta!

461.9) KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D]
Starts on RUDE BUSHMAN and then go left. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D]
Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007
(PS: Start on this route and climb over onto RUDE BUSHMAN for an alternative 23 and do the vice versa for a bit more of a solid 25 experience if you want!)

463.5) HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D]
Between Lotter's Desire and Tugela Blue. An interesting line that requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork and a bit of intestinal fortitude. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005

464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D]
Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006

464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D]
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004

471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D]
New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. This block has been REMOVED and is now safe to climb. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006

471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D]
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003

==== The Theater ====
503) KINDRED SPIRITS 25 **** [9D]
Now re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. A GREAT line, now with shiny new bolts! Climb it. FA: Grant Murray '92

==== The Right Wing ====
About 100 m further along from the Theatre

507) JOY DIVISION 30 *** (11D).
Chain added and no trad placement needed. Heads up the blank textured wall. An introduction to hard Boven crimping. Reachy. Originally graded 29! FA: Richard Lord 1992.

==== The Stone Philosopher Area ====
This crag is around the corner from JOY DIVISION.

507.4) COLLAPSE OF REASON 22 *** [10D]
The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.5) RISE OF FAITH 22 *** [10D]
The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.6) UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D]
Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007

A [[list of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting]] is posted here, add anything you think needs work. The MCSA is sponsoring bolts on a continual basis.

The Chosspile

2010-01-29T12:09:22Z

Brianweaver: /* Lord of The Rings */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite & sandstone rock above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Hard Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==
'''The owners of Chosspile (or Harties) have contacted us and are not happy about climbers accessing to climbing from the dam wall side. Please go through the main entrance at the picnic site and pay the R40.'''

To get to the crags you need to get into the Crocodile River picnic site, usually this costs R40 per car. No booking is necessary. From the dam wall driving away from the quaint town of Hartebeespoort turn right at the first stop street towards Brits. There is an Engen garage on your left. Follow the road for about 1-2 km until you cross over a river. Take the first right after this dip, pay the guard and follow the road to the right then straight. Park when the road runs out and find the path going along the water. It forks after 100-200m where there is a small flat rock with ripples in it to your right. Turn left here and then stay right, the path goes up a short rocky scree slope. Follow the path staying parallel to the water channel, just after some rocks you will see a steel weir gate where you cross. Scramble up the rock slightly right and back onto a path, follow this up to the crags.

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the area lower and much further to the left from the main crag. You can either walk left from the main crag until you reach this crag or cross the weir which can be a bit muddy or deep at times. The crag is basically uphill from the ablutions as you drive in to the usual parking spot. Currently the best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the end of the car parking in the picnic area, then head up the path which traverses up and right and takes you alongside a concrete sluice channel. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. Turn left at a split in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. There is still more potential for routes at most grades. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown (in brackets) after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MURTLE 23 *** [7D,A]''' (The original grade was given before a significant jug on the lip of the overhang was literally unearthed. Suggested new grade 20)
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
10m to the right of Moaning Murtle. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make the start safer.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''THE BLOODY BARON 15*** [12B,A]''' 
Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''QUIDDITCH 23**** [7B,A]''' 
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''New Route -- THE BALLS OF HAGRID suggested grade 20 [9B,A]''' 
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
First ascent: David Tapp January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts

'''New Route -- THE SLAB OF SNAPE suggested grade 15 [15B,A]''' 
The first route on the main face.
Climb up a series of ledges then up to good holds under a roof/overhang. Move left under the roof and up the slab to the chains, moving either left or right (easier)at the crux.
PLEASE NOTE: 60m rope essential, 15 quickdraws. Some dirt can be expected on the holds, until rain washes it down (shouldn't take long at the moment!!) as much gardening was needed to prepare this route (25.1.10).
First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts/David Tapp

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''A variation of Slitherin 18''' heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''NEW ROUTE 16 [?D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Climb straight to the chains. Care at the start when moving left into a small niche and also when moving off the large ledge at 2/3 height.
Bolted and first ascent by Neil Margetts

Approximately 8m to the right is...

'''New Route ROWLING'S RAMBLE 15 (suggested grade) [6D,A]''' 
Start to the right of a big green bush. Follow a groove to a large ledge, then up another groove on the right to finish on a second prominent ledge. The anchors are to the left and up, on the left side of a massive block. A direct variation goes from the first large ledge straight up the headwall to the anchors. Suggested grade 17.
Take care, there may be one or two suspect handholds in the first 4m of the climb as a thunderstorm stopped me finishing the cleaning - this will be sorted out ASAP.
First ascent and bolted by David Tapp January 2010

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts 4m right of ROWLING'S RAMBLE, on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

'''New Route DRACO'S SNAKE 11 (suggested grade) [6B,A]''' 
The start of the route is to the the right of CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS and about 4m lower. Take a path which passes under the start of C&S heading towards one of the descent routes of the crag. Beware the nettle trees! The climb starts up a corner/groove to a large ledge/terrace, then follows another groove onto a face to finish on a comfortable ledge. There are two anchors which only become obvious when topping out.
First ascent: Lize Boshoff January 2010 Bolted by David Tapp

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the gully. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the routes including the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''DONT DECK 23 **** [B,A,R]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark olver. A classic route.

'''DONT DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DONT DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Oliver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''FOSSIL FUEL 31 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag to the right of the main gully. These are the first climbs you come to when following the usual walk in, basically the crags to the right of the gully.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SMEAGOL 22 [?B,A]''' 
This route goes up the arete halfway between the unknown route and Sauron. Also left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''MIDDLE EARTH 12 [?B,A]''' 
Immediately right of Smeagol. Starts in or just right of the recess 5m left of Sauron.
First Ascent: 2008, Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. The hanger is missing from the final bolt (Jan 2010), causing quite a lead-out to the chains (crux) with the potential of decking on the ledge below. Climbers pushing their grades beware!
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

Waterval Boven

2010-01-28T12:16:10Z

Brianweaver: /* Hallucinogen Wall */

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== Getting There ==

<googlemap lat="-25.642" lon="30.3288" zoom="11">
-25.642, 30.3288, Waterval-Boven, South Africa
</googlemap>

If you are coming from outside Gauteng or Mpumalunga, the best city to fly to is either Nelspruit or Johannesburg. Nelspruit is closer to Waterval Boven, but flying to Johannesburg may be cheaper.

* From Nelspruit: follow the sign for Machadodorp, Witbank or even Johannesburg. Once on the N4 keep going straight for about 95km and take turn off on your left for Waterval Boven.

* From Johannesburg: drive east on the N12 (take direction Boksburg out of the airport), then follow the N4 to Waterval Boven.

For bookings and info, visit the [http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope] office next to the third stop sign after entering the town of Waterval Boven.

For pics of 'Boven visit the [http://www.climbing.co.za/gallery2/index.php?cat=11 ClimbZA Gallery]

== Accommodation and Food==

A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags ([http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets]) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals. 
[http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope]: Tel: 013 257 0363, climb@rocrope.com

The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4547]. Rather stay at the [http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets] on top of the Wonderland crags. If you're looking for alternatives in Boven check out the local accommodation booking site [http://www.mpumalangahighlands.travel]

Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.

== Safety ==
'''Malaria''' 
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.

'''Snakes and spiders''' 
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.

'''Crime''' 
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.

There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).

'''Emergency Phone Numbers''' 
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203.
This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.

Local Rescue Services:
*072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)
*082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg
*013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police
*013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital

Also useful:
*10111 - SA Police
*10117 - Ambulance
*082 911 - Emergency

== Rest Day Activities ==

''' Krugerhof ''' 
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).

''' Sudwala Caves ''' 
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.

''' The Kruger National Park ''' 
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.

''' Hiking ''' 
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.

''' Bouldering ''' 
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.

''' Paragliding ''' 
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.

''' Mountain Biking ''' 
The hills around town offer exciting mountain biking opportunities with existing trails.

''' Horse Riding ''' 
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.

''' Fly Fishing ''' 
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.

== Route Updates ==

These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.

===Waterfall Area===
==== The Last Crag of the Century ====

15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A]
Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.
FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D]
Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
FA: Jens Richter 2005

21) CAFFEINE JITTERS 15 *** [12D]
This route is now rebolted and lots of fun for the WHOLE family!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001 (BB) Jaco Myburgh & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D]
Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.
FA: Bine Tittel 2005

==== The Junkyard ====
82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N]
At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.
FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006

82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N]
Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.
FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N]
Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N]
Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004

85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N]
20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N]
The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.
FA: Jens Richter 2003

85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N]
Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.
FA: Jens Richter 2005

85.6) SCRABBLE 18 *** [N]
Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.
FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003

85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N]
Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N]
30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004

85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N]
Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

===Wonderland===
==== Tranquilitas ====
===== The Creche =====

347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D]
Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007

347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D]
Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.43) MEL 11 *** [8D]
Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.47) ME TARZAN, YOU JANE 16 **** [9D]
Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.5) JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D]
Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.6) CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D]
Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.65) FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D]
Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: Brad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

347.7) EXCUSE ME, WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D]
Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007
===== Good And Evil Area =====
355.5) NEW ROUTE 12 ???
This route starts up on a ledge halfway up the crag, right of COOL RUNNINGS. [Please provide the details if you opened this line.]

===== Malaria Area =====

355.6) NITRO'S TICK FEVER 25 *** [10?D]
A long term project opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Jan ???? BB: Neil Margetts

357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D]
Starts about 20m left of SWAT Team. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004

357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D]
A great line just right of LIT. Head into the corner and race for the chains using some technical know how. Originally opened at 26 but the grade seems to have settled at 27, for now... FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.6) ELDORADO 28 **** [11D]
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery take you to the chains. Concensus is easy 28 (7c). FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.7) INCA TRAIL 27 **** [11Dish]
A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line climbs better than it looks, weaving its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2009

357.8) S.W.A.T. Team 23 *** [10D]
Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003

357.9) FEVER 29 *** [10D]
Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a roof. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Beta will help.
FA: Dewald Kloppers 2009

363.3) ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D]
Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.4) EVELYN 18 *** [12D]
Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.45) BALANCE OF POWER 22 **** [8D]
Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

363.5) ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D]
A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

===== Grunt Area =====

363.6) FUG 22 **** [?D]
New route well indicated on the rock. FA: Unknown 2005

363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D]
One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007

363.7) ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D]
The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: Unknown 2005

363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D]
The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005

367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D]
Starts on a pile of rocks 3m right of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003

367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D]
Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

===== Rubik's Cube Boulders =====

369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D]
Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

369.4) PIT FIGHTER 31 *****
Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. Probably 7C+ boulder. Fantastic power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009

369.5) RUBIK'S CUBE 28 **** [6D]
Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

==== Baboon Buttress ====
369.1) AFTER THOUGHT 16 * [5D]
Climbs the corner crack situated to the left of the descent gully (when facing the bottom of the gully). FA: Darryl Margetts August 2009

Closed Project: [Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.

Closed Project: [7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully

369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D]
First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

369.5) TRENCH TOWN 15 *** [5D] DRIES
Slab on arête in descent gully. FA:C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006

369.6) ADAM 22 **** [6D]
From the ledge halfway down the descent gully, climb slanting feature. FA:Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007

370.3) ONE LOVE 22 *** [5D]
Climb the face just right of the cave. FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006

370.35) ALMOST USCHI 22 **** [6D]
Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007

370.4) GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 **** [9D] DRIES
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006

370.47) RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D]
From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.5) LUCKY LEILA 22 *** [12] DRIES
Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004

370.55) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 1 17 ** [5D]
From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.56) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 2 21 *** [8D]
Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.6) QINA 19 *** [???] DRIES
Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

370.65) NO MORE DYNAMO 20 *** [8D]
Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

371.3) SLAVE SPECIES 25 *** [6D] DRY
Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

371.5) PRETENDERS 24 **** [8D] DRY
Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007

371.6) GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *** [9D] DRIES
Shares first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at original anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004

372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS
Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

372.4) LEGENDS 25 *** [6D] DRY
Nice face climb, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.5) JAMANI 19 *** [6D] DRY
Fine dihedral with a good crack. Finish below the roof. FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006

372.6) SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D]
Long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrament. FA: Alard Hufner 2007

372.6(a) SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D]
Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES, climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008

372.6(b) THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D]
Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008

372.6(c) TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D]
Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009

==== Rainy Day Wall ====
372.7(1) WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D]
Starts about 2m left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008.

372.7) HEROES 26 *** [9D] DRY
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this and up the wall above to below the upper roof. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.7a) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Anchors placed June 2008. Plan is to head for the obvious arete.

372.8) DREAMERS 23 *** [11D] DRY
Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 *** [14D]
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Grade to be confirmed. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.

372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D]
Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.

372.8c) Closed Project
Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash

372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D]
Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. A 60m rope gets you back to the ledge, a 50m rope is too SHORT!!!!!!
FA: Glenn Harrison 2007

373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 ***
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.

373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 28 *** [lots]
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring

==== The God No! Wall ====

373.3)GODZILLA 32 ***** [14D]
Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.

373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D]
The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner

373.5) THE BEAST aka THE ANIMAL TRAP 32 ***** [16D]
Start up Monster and take the rigt hand break at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'animal trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Low in the grade. Brilliant. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008

373.5b) SPACE CADET 30 **** [18D]
8a for the effort! A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. Takes a cunning line through very steep ground to gain access to a wonderful headwall. A bit of everything from technical arete, burly roof, knarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roofy section - that way drag is negligable. Half height lower off. 70 m rope needed to lower in one. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2009.

373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 * [12D]
Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008

373.7) JUGGERNAUT 31 **** [12D]
Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt. FA Marc Flex Efune June 2009 (BB Mark Millar).

373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D]
Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008

373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 * [4D]
A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright

373.9b) WHO NEEDS LUCKY COWS 31 *** (12D)
Climb Choc Eclair then continue over the roof and up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. FA: Daniel Gebel , September 2009.

373.9c) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D]
This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007

373.9d) TOKOLOSIE 30 ***** [14D]
Sustanined and with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.

373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 **** (13D)
Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Solid at the grade. Top third gets dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.

373.11) CHANGING GEARS 24,23,25 *** [12D]
This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.
FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 BB: Gustav 2009

375.4) VORPAL SWORD 31 ***** [16D]
The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb. Need a 70 m rope.
FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008

375.5) HELL YEAH! 27 *** [17D]
A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route.
FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006

377.1) BURNING SPEAR 28 *** [17D]
Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.
FA: Marc Efune Oct 2009 BB: Reiny zee German 2009

378.1) BITTERGAL 22 *** [14D]
This climb is situated to the right of Alice in Grannyland. As with Brolloks, the first few meters of climbing is on dolerite, changing to quartzite higher up.
FA: Greg Borman Feb 2009

378.2) BROLLOKS 19 **** [14D]
Since being opened, this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in the Wonderland area. Starts off the block five meteres to the right of Bittergal, from the ledge follow the bolts up to your left; sustained.
FA: Greg Borman Jan 2009

378.3) GROENIE DIE DRAKIE 21 **** [13D]
Just right of Brolloks. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

378.4) SAREL SEEMONSTER 18 ****[12D]
Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left.
FA: Ken Thrash June 2009

==== Hallucinogen Wall ====
391.5) TWO CAM SAM 23 ***
Start in the corner up to loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007

394.5) MANSLAVES 15 ***
Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D]
Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003

395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D]
Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006 BB: Philippe Gaboriaud

407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D]
Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004

PROJECT
2m right of Moon Dance: Ken Thrash 2009

Morse Code 27 *** (N)
Begins with a boulder problem following the crack upwards 6m right of Moon Dance. FA: Brian Weaver December 2009

424.4) SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D]
Takes the trad line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter 2003

424.5) THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D]
The hidden line 4m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004

439.5) CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D]
Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.5) (THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D]
Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.7) MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D]
Climb the grove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

443.5) DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D]
Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005

447.1) UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 *** [7D]
Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash

==== Reunion Wall ====
On the walk from Hallucinogen to Superbowl a small crag is found on the left.

457.4) I DEXE 24 **** [10D]
The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel 2005

457.5) CACTUS PALLACE 23 ***** [10D]
The obvious bolted line diagonally up right. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004

457.6) FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 **** [8D]
The parallel route to the right of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Jens Richter 2005

==== The Superbowl ====
457.7) KIMCHI 27 **** [11D]
FA: Dan Honeymann 2007

457.8) DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 *** [13D]
Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005

460.1) Project. Dewald Kloppers

461) ***Correction***
GIANTS, back down to 26, if you use the correct beta!

461.9) KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D]
Starts on RUDE BUSHMAN and then go left. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D]
Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007
(PS: Start on this route and climb over onto RUDE BUSHMAN for an alternative 23 and do the vice versa for a bit more of a solid 25 experience if you want!)

463.5) HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D]
Between Lotter's Desire and Tugela Blue. An interesting line that requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork and a bit of intestinal fortitude. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005

464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D]
Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006

464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D]
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004

471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D]
New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. This block has been REMOVED and is now safe to climb. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006

471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D]
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003

==== The Theater ====
503) KINDRED SPIRITS 25 **** [9D]
Now re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. A GREAT line, now with shiny new bolts! Climb it. FA: Grant Murray '92

==== The Right Wing ====
About 100 m further along from the Theatre

507) JOY DIVISION 30 *** (11D).
Chain added and no trad placement needed. Heads up the blank textured wall. An introduction to hard Boven crimping. Reachy. Originally graded 29! FA: Richard Lord 1992.

==== The Stone Philosopher Area ====
This crag is around the corner from JOY DIVISION.

507.4) COLLAPSE OF REASON 22 *** [10D]
The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.5) RISE OF FAITH 22 *** [10D]
The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.6) UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D]
Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007

A [[list of routes at 'Boven that need re-bolting]] is posted here, add anything you think needs work. The MCSA is sponsoring bolts on a continual basis.