South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Mogonye

2010-02-01T14:20:13Z

Carl: New routes added

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

[[Image:Mogonye_routes.jpg|800px]]

The cliffs are North facing, so best for winter climbing. The walk in takes just over an hour.

*1 LETLHALE 15 (N) 45m
To the right of the gulley and left of the overhangs take the most obvious route up going round a large block at midheight.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

*2 UNNAMED 16 (N) 50m (2 pitches) **
Follow obvious fractured open book over large blocks and past small tree to get to the large, spacious ledge/walkway half way up the cliff – a good place for a first stance as the next section is way off-line to the left. Walk across to the face on the left to set up second stance at a cracked boulder sitting on the ledge. Head up over a poorly protected yet interesting vault-type move that takes you over horizontal cracks and into an open book at the bottom of the obvious narrow crack on the pillar face. Admit defeat to the chossy crack and continue up open book on the left. A number of slings are required here to reduce rope drag. Climb out from between the large jutting block on the left and the main cliff face. Once atop the block follow the obvious line to your left, which takes you to the top. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*3 UNNAMED 18 (N) 50m (2 pitches) ***
Start off on the boulder and head diagonally up and to the right. Traverse through an unpleasant bushy section to end up beneath the obvious large chimney. Climb straight up through yet more bushes on the left of the small pillar to gain a small ledge at the base of the chimney – Beware of wasp nests!! Climb up chimney (good hex, nut and cam placements in the cracks) and make a tricky exit at the top, mostly using holds on the left-hand face and a foothold on the right’. Excellent stance in the cave directly above the chimney, with a sling thread anchor and spacious ledges. Traverse right along the ledge/walkway to the second stance at the base of another obvious chimney, protectable with mid-range cams. Head up through the chimney (both small and large cams go well) and straight up along the obvious fracture line which turns into a blocky gulley towards the top. Excellent boulder and tree anchors just below the summit. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*4 NKA MO DIRA 16 (N) 50m
To the left of the drip through the break in the overhangs to a stance in a recess. From here back out through the crack at the back of the recess and up the pillar and flake to the right.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

*5 UNNAMED 19 (TR) 40m
Direct line up through the less steep overhangs. Nice climbing.

*6 UNNAMED 21 (TR) 40m
Direct line up through one of the largest roofs. Looks improbable but there are good horizontal breaks where you need them.

*7 DIKELEDI 17 (N) 40m
To the left of the largest set of overhangs. Up under the leftmost overhang before the recess. There is a small jump off a ledge to a large ledge (unless you're tall) then up to the left of the overhang there is a recess. Come back out right before the tree on a ledge. Take short clean 90 degree open book for the crux finish to ledge on right of open book. Done in 2 pitches.

First Ascent Carl Bauer Jan 2010

* DESCENT ROUTE - Leopard’s Lair Escape Gulley
Large, obvious bushy gulley situated between lines 1 and 2. Scramble and down-climb past a narrow, deep cave. Bear left as you’re walking down (West) and down climb a tricky section to end up in the leaning tree. Continue down past the larger cave to a small tree on the edge of a steep rock dropoff. Rapell off this tree, over the boulder and down. Rope pulls easily.

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
Mannyelanong Cliffs
(B) -24.85917, 25.68662
Something Gorge
6#B2758BC5
-24.83882, 25.66291
-24.831286, 25.664008
-24.824664, 25.662892
</googlemap>

*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

Mogonye

2009-11-21T09:52:06Z

Carl: RDs added

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

[[Image:Mogonye_routes.jpg|800px]]

The cliffs are North facing, so best for winter climbing. The walk in takes just over an hour.

*1 LETLHALE 15 (N) 45m
To the right of the gulley and left of the overhangs take the most obvious route up going round a large block at midheight.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

*2 UNNAMED 16 (N) 60m (2 pitches) **
Follow obvious fractured open book over large blocks and past small tree to get to the large, spacious ledge/walkway half way up the cliff – a good place for a first stance as the next section is way off-line to the left. Walk across to the face on the left to set up second stance at a cracked boulder sitting on the ledge. Head up over a poorly protected yet interesting vault-type move that takes you over horizontal cracks and into an open book at the bottom of the obvious narrow crack on the pillar face. Admit defeat to the chossy crack and continue up open book on the left. A number of slings are required here to reduce rope drag. Climb out from between the large jutting block on the left and the main cliff face. Once atop the block follow the obvious line to your left, which takes you to the top. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*3 UNNAMED 18 (N) 60m (2 pitches) ***
Start off on the boulder and head diagonally up and to the right. Traverse through an unpleasant bushy section to end up beneath the obvious large chimney. Climb straight up through yet more bushes on the left of the small pillar to gain a small ledge at the base of the chimney – Beware of wasp nests!! Climb up chimney (good hex, nut and cam placements in the cracks) and make a tricky exit at the top, mostly using holds on the left-hand face and a foothold on the right’. Excellent stance in the cave directly above the chimney, with a sling thread anchor and spacious ledges. Travesrse right along the ledge/walkway to the second stance at the base of another obvious chimney, protectable with mid-range cams. Head up through the chimney (both small and large cams go well) and straight up along the obvious fracture line which turns into a blocky gulley towards the top. Excellent boulder and tree anchors just below the summit. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*4 NKA MO DIRA 16 (N) 60m
To the left of the drip through the break in the overhangs to a stance in a recess. From here back out through the crack at the back of the recess and up the pillar and flake to the right.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

*5 to be added

* DESCENT ROUTE - Leopard’s Lair Escape Gulley
Large, obvious bushy gulley situated between lines 1 and 2. Scramble and down-climb past a narrow, deep cave. Bear left as you’re walking down (West) and down climb a tricky section to end up in the leaning tree. Continue down past the larger cave to a small tree on the edge of a steep rock dropoff. Rapell off this tree, over the boulder and down. Rope pulls easily.

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
Mannyelanong Cliffs
(B) -24.85917, 25.68662
Something Gorge
6#B2758BC5
-24.83882, 25.66291
-24.831286, 25.664008
-24.824664, 25.662892
</googlemap>

*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

Kgale Hill

2009-11-21T09:18:34Z

Carl: routes named and grades adjusted

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.
{{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 12 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 21 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top. The left is the standard route and has the chains at the top. The right hand variation has a slightly harder step across move onto a sloping shelf.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 24 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained climbing.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it but easier on the overhanging bulges.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005. Also lead on trad Carl Bauer 2009.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section. Very dodgy gear for the face on the first section.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. MAPALASTINA 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. KWANTLE 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. ITEKA 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. SEKOPO 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only

15. BEIBELE 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

MOLORA 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

MENO 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

MARININI 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-13T19:24:30Z

Carl: /* Eastern Tower */

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern [[Botswana]].

==Eastern Tower==

[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

[[Image:Mot1.jpg|600px]]
*2 BABIRWA LINE 16 (N) 25m **
Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.
First Ascent Carl Bauer 2009

*3 MAVENDA LINE 23 (N) 25m ***
Located on the North face of the south tower is an obvious open book about halfway up. There is a very tricky overhang with a crack running through it to get over. Only toproped so far using aid to get over the overhang.

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.203213" lon=" 28.849642" zoom="13">
(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-13T19:19:40Z

Carl: /* Eastern Tower */

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern [[Botswana]].

==Eastern Tower==

[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

[[Image:Mot1.jpg|600px]]
*2 BABIRWA LINE 16 (N) 25m ****
Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.203213" lon=" 28.849642" zoom="13">
(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-13T19:12:35Z

Carl:

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern [[Botswana]].

==Eastern Tower==

[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

[[Image:Mot1.jpg]]
*2 BABIRWA LINE 16 (N) 25m ****
Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

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(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

File:Mot1.JPG

2009-06-13T19:08:32Z

Carl: Motlhabaneng South Babirwa

Motlhabaneng South Babirwa

Kgale Hill

2009-06-06T16:26:32Z

Carl:

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.
{{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top. The left is the standard route and has the chains at the top. The right hand variation has a slightly harder step across move onto a sloping shelf.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 24 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained climbing.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it but easier on the overhanging bulges.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005. Also lead on trad Carl Bauer 2009.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section. Very dodgy gear for the face on the first section.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. UNNAMED 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. UNNAMED 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. UNNAMED 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only

15. UNNAMED 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

UNNAMED 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

Kgale Hill

2009-05-26T13:05:54Z

Carl: /* CUBICLE AREA */

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top, both about the same level of difficulty.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 23 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained face climbing

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section.

Climbed on top rope only.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. UNNAMED 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. UNNAMED 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. UNNAMED 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only

15. UNNAMED 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

UNNAMED 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

Kgale Hill

2009-05-26T12:34:53Z

Carl: /* CUBICLE AREA */

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top, both about the same level of difficulty.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 23 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained face climbing

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section.

Climbed on top rope only.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. UNNAMED 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. UNNAMED 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. UNNAMED 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. UNNAMED 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only

15. UNNAMED 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

UNNAMED 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

Botswana

2009-05-26T12:27:50Z

Carl: /* Guide Books/References */

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.5237" lon="25.927734" zoom="7">
(A) -24.689739, 25.8743, Kgale Hill
Kgale Hill
(B) -24.5571, 25.88034, Mmopane Hill
Mmopane Hill
(C) -24.83882, 25.66291, Mogonye
Mannyelanong Cliffs, Mogonye
(D) -24.85917, 25.68662, Mogonye
Mmamotshwane Gorge, Mogonye
(E) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
Kanye Gorge
(F) -24.775164, 25.422507, Moshupa and Thamaga
Moshupa
(G) -24.663047, 25.538192, Moshupa and Thamaga
Thamaga
(H) -22.647334, 27.630632, Tswapong Hills
Tswapong Hills
</googlemap>

*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
*F [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*G [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}
*H [[Tswapong Hills]]: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html. This information has now all been transferred onto the wiki and more.

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Botswana

2009-05-22T16:52:38Z

Carl: /* Guide Books/References */

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa & Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.666986" lon="25.743713" zoom="9">
(A) -24.689739, 25.8743, Kgale Hill
Kgale Hill
(B) -24.5571, 25.88034, Mmopane Hill
Mmopane Hill
(C) -24.83882, 25.66291, Mogonye
Mannyelanong Cliffs, Mogonye
(D) -24.85917, 25.68662, Mogonye
Something Gorge, Mogonye
(E) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
Kanye Gorge
(F) -24.775164, 25.422507, Moshupa & Thamaga
Moshupa
(G) -24.663047, 25.538192, Moshupa & Thamaga
Thamaga
</googlemap>

*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - @@ Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712}}
*F [[Moshupa & Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507}}
*G [[Moshupa & Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html This is now no longer being updated and everything has been transfered onto the wiki here.

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Kgale Hill

2009-04-13T09:50:14Z

Carl:

The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top, both about the same level of difficulty.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 23 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained face climbing

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section.

Climbed on top rope only.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. UNNAMED 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (TR) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. UNNAMED 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. UNNAMED 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. UNNAMED 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only

15. UNNAMED 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

UNNAMED 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

File:Uppertier.jpg

2009-04-13T09:47:19Z

Carl:

File:Redleft2.jpg

2009-04-13T09:43:10Z

Carl:

Kgale Hill

2009-04-13T07:52:33Z

Carl: New page: The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the ba...

File:Blackright.jpg

2009-04-13T07:50:29Z

Carl: Black rocks right routes

Black rocks right routes

File:Blacktc.jpg

2009-04-13T07:45:39Z

Carl: Black rocks routes

Black rocks routes

File:Kgale.jpg

2009-04-13T07:41:52Z

Carl: Kgale Hill main view

Kgale Hill main view

South African Climbing Wiki

2009-04-13T07:23:47Z

Carl: /* Botswana */

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes. To edit the wiki you need to have a forum username and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current username to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

'''==General Information=='''

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] Permits and Access
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*[[Du Toits Kloof]]
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing]]

**[[Yellow Wood Amphitheatre]]
***[[Prime Time Direct 24]]
[[Image:Prime_Time_Direct_Yellowwood_colour_Dec_2008_with_stances_web large.png|200px|thumb|left|Prime Direct Yellow Wood Amphitheatre]]

*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Krakadow]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*Cape Peninsula
A Note on the weather: If the wind is blowing SE which is common in summer, we have what Cape-Climbers refer to as the "Schlorck Factor" at some of the crags; the rock becomes so slippery and even damp that it seems as if someone smeared oil onto the holds. Climbing is near impossible unless you have a bucket of chalk to compensate! This effect is caused by sea water being blown onto the crags (from afar that is).

Crags affected: The Mine, The Hole, Silvermine Crags, Elsies Peak, Kalk Bay Crags, Peers Cave...

The rock friction is rarely if ever altered on the climbs that start at the "Ledge" on Table Mountain.

When the North Wester blows, it generally means that bad weather is on the way (but it could take a day or two to arrive.) The air can be warm and balmy before the clouds race in from the Atlantic. If Lions Head mountain is covered in cloud there is a high chance its going to rain in the next couple of hours.

When a so called cold "front" approaches then the best escape is to head to Montagu where a rain shadow protects the area from rain. As the front moves in from the sea over the peninsula there will be some delay before it gets to Paarl and then the Du Toit's Kloof range will also hold back the front for half a day or so. So one can climb at Paarl Rocks or Hellfire crag for a morning or afternoon. Unfortunately, as the "front" approaches it can get very windy in the Du Toit's pass as it acts as a chute.

The Cedarberg can also be considered but depending on the size of the front, it can rain there too.

Of the crags within an hour two of Cape Towb, Karbonaatjies Kraal is the last crag to be affected by wet weather.

*[[India Venster Trail]]
[[Image:Table Mountain Zoomed out view of India Venster and Kloof Corner trails.jpg|thumb|right|Table Mountain Zoomed out view of India Venster and Kloof Corner trails]]

**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
***Towerkop

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]]
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Mutango Lodge]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Kanye Gorge]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Mosweu]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

Botswana

2009-04-13T07:09:44Z

Carl: Intro update

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is Kgale Hill which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called Otse. Other climbing areas include the gorge in Kanye (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, the Tswapong Hills (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it, bouldering in Thamaga and Moshupa south of Gaborone. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country. which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

== Getting there ==
The best climbing area faces the new Game City shopping complex (with it’s own climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas.There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You will need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone.