South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Cape Town

2012-11-19T09:56:55Z

Climbza: /* SE Wind */

= Cape Town Weather =
== SE Wind ==
If the wind is blowing SE which is common in summer, we have what Cape-Climbers refer to as the "Schlauk Factor" at some of the crags; the rock becomes so slippery and even damp that it seems as if someone smeared oil onto the holds. Climbing is near impossible unless you have a bucket of chalk to compensate! This effect is caused by sea water being blown onto the crags (from afar that is).

Crags affected: The Mine, The Hole, Silvermine Crags, Elsies Peak, Kalk Bay Crags, Peers Cave...

The rock friction is rarely if ever altered on the climbs that start at the "Ledge" on Table Mountain.

== NW Wind ==
When the North Wester blows, it generally means that bad weather is on the way (but it could take a day or two to arrive.) The air can be warm and balmy before the clouds race in from the Atlantic. If Lions Head mountain is covered in cloud there is a high chance its going to rain in the next couple of hours.

== Where to climb when it's raining in Cape Town ==
When a so called cold "front" approaches then the best escape is to head to Montagu where a rain shadow protects the area from rain. As the front moves in from the sea over the peninsula there will be some delay before it gets to Paarl and then the Du Toit's Kloof range will also hold back the front for half a day or so. So one can climb at Paarl Rocks or Hellfire crag for a morning or afternoon. Unfortunately, as the "front" approaches it can get very windy in the Du Toit's pass as it acts as a chute.

The Cedarberg can also be considered but depending on the size of the front, it can rain there too.

Of the crags within an hour two of Cape Town, Karbonaatjies Kraal is the last crag to be affected by wet weather.

= Map of Cape Town Climbing Areas =
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.936524,18.388513||[[Lion's Head]]
-33.942327,18.401026||[[Higgovale Quarry]]
-33.984239,18.417675||[[Nursery Ravine]]
-34.025717,18.384648||[[Hout Bay]]
-34.075626,18.407666||[[Silvermine Crags]]
-34.114647,18.400713||[[Peers Cave]]
-34.089346,18.427493||[[The Underside]]
-34.091407,18.437106||[[The Mine]]
-34.091833,18.453671||[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
-34.099581,18.460623||[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
-34.104343,18.459679||[[The Hole]]
-34.10349,18.461138||[[Foreign Policy]]
-34.128503,18.441912||[[Kalk Bay]]
-34.14914,18.435181||[[Elsies Peak]]
-33.957884,18.403619||[[Table Mountain]]

</display_points>

= Cape Town Trad Climbing =
*[[Table Mountain]]
*[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
*[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
*[[Nursery Ravine]]
*[[Elsies Peak]]

= Cape Town Sport Climbing =
*[[Silvermine Crags]]
*[[The Mine]]
*[[The Underside]]
*[[The Hole]]
*[[Foreign Policy]]
*[[Peers Cave]]
*[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
*[[Kalk Bay]]
*[[Higgovale Quarry]]
*[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel

= Cape Town Bouldering =
*[[Llandudno]]
*[[New Joshua Tree]]
*[[Redhill]]
*[[Silvermine Boulder]]
*[[Topside]]

>> Back to [[Western Cape]] page

King's Kloof

2012-11-19T09:01:42Z

Climbza:

{{Infobox Crag
| Latitude = -26.066459
| Longitude = 27.779825
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Gradient = Vertical
| Walkin =
| Aspect = As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.
| Province = Gauteng
| Area = King's Kloof
}}

'''West Rand sport climbing in an unspoilt, tranquil valley near Krugersdorp.'''

'''N.B. THIS GUIDE IS VERY MUCH A WORK IN PROGRESS. PLEASE BEAR WITH US AS WE UPDATE THE INFORMATION'''

[[File:DSC00191b.JPG]]

A view of King's Kloof looking South, taken from the top of the North East sector. The camps of Rocky Valley and Achterbergh can be seen on the right and left respectively.

== Seasons ==

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

== Rock and topography ==

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river.
Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

== Gear ==

60 metre rope and up to 12 quickdraws. So far there are 5x25m climbs and one link-up of 31m, in addition to many shorter lines.
Extra slings and screwgates may be useful for use with the belay safety bolts.
Climbs are equipped with the finest stainless steel hangers made in SA, attached by Hilti HSA-R M10x68mm stainless steel bolts, for your climbing pleasure!
8mm Maillons rated at 15kN are used at anchors and/or rated galvanized chain. Many hangers are painted to lessen environmental impact, more will be painted over time.

== Getting there ==

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp

From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

[[File:Rocky Valley Map.jpg]]

== Booking in ==

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

== Accommodation ==

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

== Guide conventions ==

Route names are followed by the consensus grade and (number of bolts + two anchors). Thus you will know how many quickdraws you need to climb the route and you can choose an appropriate belay method at the anchors.
‘S’ indicates that a safety bolt has been provided on the climb. Routes are described left to right.
Comments on grades, etc are welcomed at http://www.climb.co.za/forum/ under ‘Area Updates and New Routes’. Be nice, we’ve done our best!

== The climbing ==

The climbing is divided into four areas: Kings Kloof NW, NE, SW and SE. The river runs downstream pretty much northwards so the arrangement of the areas should be obvious. There is a prominent sign along the path to King’s Kloof NW which shows the climbing areas. Currently the most developed area is NW, with routes appearing at NE and soon some harder routes at SE. Watch this guide for updates.

[[File:Climbing info.jpg]]

== Special Access Conditions ==

Access has been granted through negotiation with the two religious organisations who own the land. There must be no alcohol at the crag and names of new routes must have respectful Christian connotations. Remember: the Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away (Job 1:21) so please heed these conditions. Please read ‘Crag Rules’.

== Crag Rules ==

In order to make sure we always have access to this crag, the following rules must be adhered to when visiting the area.

** No alcohol permitted.
** Take home all litter and refuse, (including '''''all''''' fruit peels and cigarette butts).
** No unnecessary destroying of vegetation.
** No interference with any animal life.
** No fires.
** No soap or any other detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river.
** No playing of loud music/radios.
** No Graffiti or any defacing of the rocks.
** Toilet activities must be more than 60m from any permanent water and no trace must be visible after the activity. It is preferable that no toilet paper at all is left at Rocky Valley.
** Be polite and courteous to all staff and management of the land owners.
** The area is to be used for climbing and the following other activities are not permitted: fishing, quad or any other motorised biking, hunting, and any other activity which does not comply with the law of the country or the rules of the landowner.

== King’s Kloof South ==
From the parking area take the path upstream

Update as per forum discussion here: http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=45660

South East, from left to right:

1. [4D, A] - 16/17

2. [5D, A] - 18 /19

3. Project [7D, A]

4. [6D, A] to left - 22??

5. [6D, A] - ?? - Starts on rock mound, come off on lead and you will land in tree

7. [9D, A] -19 - Shares 6 draws and anchors with climb 8. Starts on rock mound up smooth overhang shares chains with climb on right

9. [8D, A] - 22 - Straight up the main crack using side pulls.

10.[8D, A] - 20 - Traverse left under roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left. FA The Hungarians 2012

11. 25? - Name unknown. Up the corner then break through the big roofs. FA: Neil Margetts 2012

12. [9D? A] 29 - Name unknown. BB: Pierre Carter, FA Dylan Vogt 2011

13. [5D, A] - 22 - Hard start into real easy climbing. BB David Tapp

14. [4D, A] - 17 - Crosses over the 14. BB David Tapp

15. [7D, A] - 14 - Climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge. Best to clean on top rope since the route runs diagonally left. FA Neil Margetts 2012

16. [9D, A] - 17 - '''Pharaoh's Face''' - Fun face climb. FA Pierre Joubert 2011

17 [7D, A] - 18**** Pulls through little overhang onto face above. Technical and fun. FA Neil Margetts 2011

18. [7D, A] - 15 - Crux is at the start, great warm up climb. FA Neil Margetts 2011

19. [6D, A] - 13 - '''Abel's Arete''' - Last route on the right when facing the crag. On angle, shares chains with 15 next door. Best to clean on top rope since the climb goes diagonally left. FA Pierre Joubert 2011

== King's Kloof SW ==

From the parking lot, walk upstream on the left hand side of the river (looking upstream) until just before where the path splits to go to the SE sector. Turn right here, rock hop over the river. Get to the base of a slightly vegetated slab. Scramble up this carefully for about 20m (this is tricky when wet) until you see one route on the face above you on the left.

1. Thou shalt not judge - [4D, A] 23 - Short but business straight off the deck. Scramble up the slab to the base where there are 2 bolts for your belayer. 10 moves, steep and technical. BB: Pierre Joubert. FA: Matt Hoffman Nov 2012

== King’s Kloof NW ==

From the parking area take the path downstream until you can see a rising rock ramp with the obvious chain scramble at the top.

Care with rope management, drag, sharp edges, top-roping and pendulums – so that’s about everything, really!

'''River face''': pass to the right of the rock ramp, taking the path to a steep and broken face.

'''DAMNATION (15M) 17* [?B+A]''' 
Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. The start can be wet in Summer. First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2010.

'''Main faces''': Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble

There are at least three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will probably be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping here so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!

'''Open Project – not yet bolted'''

'''Open Project – not yet bolted'''

'''Neil’s Project 24? – not yet bolted'''

The next two routes start just before the chain scramble:

'''EVE VARIATION (25M) 18** [9B+A] S''' 
The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ADAM'S RIB (25M) 16** [8B+A] S''' 
Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

And, above the chain scramble:

'''WALL OF JERICHO (15M) 14*** [5B+A] S''' 
Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN (10M) 15*** [5B+A] S''' 
Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner.. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE SERPENT (10M) 20** [5B+A] S''' 
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the headwall; easier if you’re tall.. First Ascent: David Tapp, July 2010

'''THE APPLE (8M) 21*** [6B+A] S''' 
Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains. First ascent: David Tapp January 2011

'''ELIJAH'S FLYING CHARIOT (7M) 21** [5B+A] S''' Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, August 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''GENESIS (6M) 18** [5B+A] S''' 
Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ZACHARIAS' TREE (5M) 19* [4B+A]''' 
This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier. . First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''R.I.V. (25M) 13*** [8B+A] S''' 
Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges! First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''DRAGON SLAYERS (12M) 15 [5B+A] No star rating yet'''
Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

'''CRAZY FLYING DEMONS (12M) 13 [5B+A] No star rating yet''' 
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011
Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

'''Variation 19 No star rating yet''' 
Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:

'''HELLFIRE (15M) 23*** [7B+A] S''' 
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp

Neil’s project (Hellfire Direct)

Dave’s project (17m) 21??(6B+A)

'''TURN OR BURN (17M) 23**** [6B+A] S''' 
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010

'''ARMAGEDDON (23M) 19*** [7B+A] S''' 
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''THE WAGES OF SIN (20M) 22**** [6B+A]''' 
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010

'''GOLGOTHA (25M) 19**** [10B+A]''' 
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE FOURTH BEAST (7M) 18 [?B+A]''' 
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.

'''VARIATION 15 No star rating yet''' 
Move up on large holds as for the main climb. Continue up and traverse left into the groove on good holds. First ascent?

'''THE FOUR HORSEMEN (25M) 12*** [8B+A]''' 
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''VARIATION 15''' 
An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''CRUCIFIXION(15m) 21*** [7B+A]''' 
This climb is way right of the last one but the cave it's in is an obvious feature.
Start just left of the bigger cave on the far right of the crag. Move up (with difficulty if short) to an off-balance rest and then do a series of strenuous moves right to get established on the headwall. Climb the headwall trending left to the chains. First ascent Neil Margetts Feb 2011

== King’s Kloof NE ==

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalypts.
The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''THREE WISE MEN (20M) 15 No star rating yet [?B+A]''' 
Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''ANGEL OF MERCY (11M) 17*** [?B+A]''' 
Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''NARROW IS THE GATE (22M) 13 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' 
Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011

'''STRAIGHT IS THE WAY (8M) 19/20? No star rating yet [?B,A]''' 
Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains.
All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s. Bolted by David Tapp Feb 2011.

Kleinrivier

2012-11-07T16:32:31Z

Climbza:

Waterval Boven

2011-12-14T11:30:26Z

Climbza:

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== The Waterval Boven Guide ==

This guide covers everything.

[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_December_2011.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated December 2011.]

== Add New Routes below: ==

Baboon Buttress

Diablo 27 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011

RAPTOPHILIA 32 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury.
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011

Hallucinogen Wall

Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of rocky, staying on the face(Going left makes it easier).
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010

Superbowl

Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House. Not sure about the grade - opinion on this is welcome.
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.

Blouberg

2011-12-14T11:12:30Z

Climbza:

[[Image:Blouberg North Wall Limpopo Province, South Africa.jpg|right]]
 
 
 

=Route Guide=
[[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Blouberg_Route_Guide_6_2011_12_12.pdf | Click here to download the Blouberg Route Guide by Hector Pringle]]

[[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Blouberg_photo_topo_Rev_0.pdf | Click here to download the Blouberg Photo Guide by Hector Pringle]]

=Directions=

==Walking Directions==
There basically two different walk-ins: African Ivory and Frans' Kraal. The African Ivory route tackles the mountain from the south and basically foolows the big watercourse, the source of which is the top pools near the cave. The Frans' Kraal route comes in from the east, and heads up a biggish river valley, then gets onto the ridge forming the valley bank. Once the big plateau is reached, the route goes clockwise around the southern Donjon, up to the top plateau.

General consensus is that Fran's Kraal is by far the better walk. You start ascending almost immediately on this walk, as opposed to African Ivory where it takes ages to reach the first steep bit. It is probably equally likely to get lost on either walk.

==Frans' Kraal==

Parking is no longer at Frans' Kraal, but rather at Isaac's Kraal. Isaac is a relative of Frans (son? nephew? grandson?) and the road virtually runs into his place. (The Rondawels have gone). His property is guarded by a fence with "white metal gates". From the house walk down the road towards the mountain (i.e. in a westerly direction. You'll pass Frans' Kraal (a white house) on your LHS about 100m down the road. Cross the small river at some big smooth boulders. Carry on along the very big path until the big thorn trees start. Just after entering the thron tree forest, turn onto the well worn path that goes up the hill.

Follow the path up the hill until a kraal on your RHS. There should be a path veering left at this stage, following a contour. Follow this path until it veers right up the hill, next to the main river (usually running). The path becomes steep now, staying on the true left of the river, until it levels off slightly and crosses the river. It usually takes 15-25 mins to get to this point.

There should be a very well worn path on the other side, heading south (i.e. away from the river). Head slightly left through the trees to find a good path that gradually takes you onto a ridge. A bit up this path it suddenly opens up and you get a good view of the plain below. Shortly after this, stick to the right and (there are many paths splitting and joining here - they all go more or less the same way, except for the left most one which goes the wrong way). You should now be heading due west again, up a steady ridge. This path is very eroded at times. Eventually, it will level off, go through a small dip past a little stream, and then up a short steep, boulder hopping section through trees until a contour path running north-south is reached. Turn left (south) onto the contour path. It usually takes about an hour to get here.

From here follow paths - and there are more than one option - and head for the middle of the Donjan visible ahead. You are ultimately heading for the left side of the Donjan. If you start heading too far east i.e. towards the right side of the Donjan and the obvious saddle, then you have gone too far. Go back west.

You should be amongst some massive yellowwoods. The perrenial drip of clean water is just higher up. The biggest tree around marks the start of the next section of the walk. It usually takes about 1hr30 to get to the drip.

From behind the big tree, find the path over the boulders and over a big fallen yellowwood trunk. It start off heading south, then turns sharp right and goes very steeply up the boulders. At the top of the steep stuff is a big boulder cave. Follow the path into the thorn tree forest. You cant really go wrong here. After about ten minutes you should pop out the trees onto the beautiful Blouberg plateau.

Choose your own way across the plateau. There is one path that goes at a low level (left) and another easier one, if you can find it, at a high. contour, level (right). Just head in the general direction of the crags due south. You'll find the river immediately below the crags. Turn upstream (right) and follow the river up the little kloof. Climb out on the true right of the kloof. Follow the path up the little valley, veer rightwards over a small ridge into a second small valley, and climb onto the ridge on the other side. Follow this ridge up to a big boulder. Climb the boulder and contour right to the cave. The whole walk usually takes about 2hr30 if you are au fait with the route and anything up to 8 hours if you are not!

=Water=

There is perrenial water in the main pool bleow the BAPM butress. From the cave, walk down the little kloof. Stick in the river bed (bare rock) and carry on downstream for a few minutes. The main pool is in the shade of a big tree.

If you don't want to walk that far, take a length of rubber tube with and use it to drain water out of the small pools that form in the small kloof below the cave. This is useful in the spring months when water is particularly scarce.

There is sometimes water on the summit, near the top of Hey Jude. Dont rely on it though cos its often dry.

=Start of Routes=

Walking down the ramp the first obvious good section of rock above is a big orangey/pink amphitheatre (Lost Tribe Area), about 120 m high. The ramp bottoms out just after walking over some exposed rock under a bulging overhang with a single tree root growing down it. Follow the path as it curves to the left, up then down the boulder hopping at the base of the obvious gulley (Great Gulley). Go up and leftish to the base of the big, steep, scary wall (Wall of White Light) with grass slopes beneath it. Wall of White Light starts approximately halfway between popping out of the bushes and the very obvious corner that leads to a sloping grass ledge 80m up. Psycho Reptile starts towards the right of Wall of White Light. Future Shock, Moonlight, Moonlight Direct, Crack of Adventure and Road to Nowhere all start up the obvious corner. Carry on past bad choss at base of wall until under a massive roof 70m up (Solar Eclipse). Scatterlings breaks through just to the right of the big roof. Eight Miles High starts up cracks just right of Scatterlings. Hey Jude (Bushpig, Tequila Sunrise and Moonshadow share Hey Jude’s start) starts in corner formed by big flake. Hey Jude climbs corner for 5m then steps right and up slabs. Last moon is the very obvious grey corner (40m high) with gnarly crack, about 30m right of big roof. Just around the corner to the right of this is the break taken by Something of Value. Look out for the two bolts on Wow Fuck just to the left of SOV (bolts are about 25m up on a very blank-looking headwall, above a groove). Moonraker starts 15m right of SOV, at big flakes.

=Classic Routes=
25 Tequila Sunrise - steals a few pitches from other routes plus some new pitches. Pretty much a direct line with mostly great gear.

24 Eight Miles High - Awesome, probably the best route on the wall. The pitch off the grass ledge is stiff for 22 and gear isn't great.

22 Scatterlings - Suberb sustained route. The final finger crack is immaculate and technical.

21 Something of Value - Very direct route (if the Tequila Sunrise variation is used instead of the original pitches 5&6). Tricky offwidth at the top.

21 Teddy Bears' Picnic - Excellent sustained route. Bomber gear all the way with a very exposed traverse on pitch 7. Pitch 8 has 2 bolts (replaced in Sept 2005).

20 Hey Jude - Good technical climing on the crux, mixed with thrashing crack climbing higher up. Well protected route, and the off-width isnt that bad.

19 Last Moon - Hard, awesome first pitch (more like 20), and the higher pitches on chickenhead faces are absolutely brilliant. Mostly good gear.

21 Big Corner - Great climbing on excellent rock. It's worth doing the Maleboch scramble to avoid the original first pitches.

22 Moonlight Direct - Good climbing. Long and hard grade 22 pitch with some suspect rock on the easy pitch off the grass ledge

20 Bushpig - A fast route at grade 20 with some fun chimneys towards the top. Follows the rap ladder. The grade 20-pitch of Hey Jude forms the crux.

19 Moonraker - Crux pitch is long and awesome with varied climbing. Pitches up to the grassy ledge are tricky

=Bouldering=

There is a great bouldering area in the small valley thet heads up towards Avalon (bolted route, 26). When standing in the cave, Avalon is the striking yellow wall to the north east. To get to the bouldering, walk to the top pools. Head eastwards for a minute or two over the grassy meadow. The bouldering valley will open up on your right, with the Avalon wall forming the head of the valley.

Another good bouldering area is near the bottom pools. From the cave go down the little kloof. Stick on the true left of the river and find your way down to the bottom pools. About 150 m downstream of the big pot-hole pool, on the true left of the river is a 5 m high gently overhanging wall. The wall is maybe 50 m wide.

=Cave Area Climbs=

On the true right of the bouldering valley leading up to Avalon is a very nice 16 hand and finger crack, Grand Illusion, (about 30 m below Avalon) opened by Mike Cartwright in 1990. Theres a good 21 on the face just to the left of the crack as follows:

Start about 2 m left of Grand Illusion. Climb up then follow the grips up and leftwards to get gear on the arete. Finish up rightwards to top out. This was opened on pre-placed gear. Gear is minimal and not very good.
FA: Steve Crowe, April 2005

All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. This is a great route. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28)

=Tips for Some of the Routes=

==Something of Value (21)==
The 2nd pitch after the grass ledge goes up to a rail, then rails left to a corner. The original route climbs the corner for 3 m then buggers off left across an unprotected slab. This is hard and scary 21. Intead of traversing left, continue climbing the corner to the small roof that caps it. Step up and right to a peg, then some slab moves to another peg until able to move up and right into the main corner feature. Follow the corner to the overhang and pull this to get into the corner of the 6th pitch of SOV. Climb the easy (15) corner to the jumbo ledge. This pitch is from Tequila Sunrise and gets ***** with very good gear and wild steep climbing. Its also about grade 21.

==Teddy Bears' Picnic (21)==
The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These were replaced with new 10 mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.

==Dreams of White Dogs (26)and Dog of Thunder (30A0) ==
[[Image:Dreams of White Dogs topo.JPG||800px‎]]

Pinnacle Gorge

2011-12-13T11:22:02Z

Climbza:

You need to be a member of the Mountain Club of South Africa Eastern Cape Section to access this area.

[http://eas.mcsa.org.za/ MCSA Eastern Cape]

Cogmans Buttress

2011-12-02T06:42:17Z

Climbza:

=== Cogmans Buttress ===

=== Getting There ===

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn. 
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on.
There area cairns marking the path.

Eagles Folly area:
Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

[[File:Cogmans_buttress_paths.jpg]]

[[File:Another_day_in_paradise.jpg‎|frame|Kevin Marki on Another Day in Paradise (21/22) Cogmans Buttress, Montagu Photo by Justin Lawson|right]]

''' Another Day In Paradise''' ==
To the left of the Rave.
* P1. 4a/10 5 Bolts 23mm
* P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 13 Bolts 25m
* P3. 5c/18 7 Bolts 20m
* P4. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
* P5. 3c/12 5 Bolts 20m
* P6. 5c/18 11 Bolts 25m
* P7. 5b/17 9 Bolts 20m
Bolts sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend.
Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch !!!
The Raves rap line.

'''Magical Mystery Tour''' ***
* P1. 4a/10 4Bolts 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.
* P2. 5c/18 9 Bolts 20m
* P3. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
* P4. 5c/18 11 Bolts 30m
Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Link up to second stance on Paradise after 4th bolt on pitch 3. *** Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm

'''The Rave'''
* (6 Pitches - highest grade 6c/22)

'''TOCANDO EL VACIO'''
50m right of "The Rave"
* P1. 24/6c+ 35m
* P2. 27/7b+ 35m
* P3. 22/6b+ 35m
* P4. 27/7b+ 30m
* Decent: 3xAbseils. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!
Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma - 05.08.03

'''LOW BATTERY'''
Right of "Tocando el Vacio"
* P1. 16/5b
* P2. 18/6a
* P3. 23/6c
* P4. 23/6c
* Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground
Bolted from ground up, you might need a set of nuts on first pitch.By Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma - 7/8.07. 03

'''Burnt by the Sun'''
* P1: 17 28m (10B,C) **
* P2: 19 26m (10B,C)
* P3: 21/22 28m (9B,C)
* P4: 22/23 30m (14B,C)
M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003.

Click [http://www.debos.co.za/climbing/cogmans-buttress/ here for the Cogmans Buttress topo] on Debos.co.za

'''Castle in the Sky 19/6a 18 bolts 60m! FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08'''

This route has a little bit of everything and a bit more... it just keeps on going (fantastic!) it is of very good quality, enjoy the journey.

Warning :!: This route is not to be approached with a normal sport climber attitude. It has a very big "trad" route feel and the leader should be comfortable with grade 19. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don't pull on everything (& think about taking a helmet). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Have some longer slings for rope drag.

:!: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully :!:

- Approach from Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon.
- Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress.
- Kit up here and leave rucksack.
- Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face.

- Descend via a lower off from a bolt with a leaver biner into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are.
- Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.

File:Another day in paradise.jpg

2011-12-01T15:15:57Z

Climbza: Another Day in Paradise, Cogmans Buttress, Montagu

Another Day in Paradise, Cogmans Buttress, Montagu

Lion's Head

2011-11-16T11:08:36Z

Climbza:

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Note that some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope, always put a knot in the end of the rope). A visiting Scottish climber lost his life due to this aspect. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness /23 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Teatime is Over 7a/24 1B
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
FA: R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
 Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches 

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===
 
==== ''Asteroid'' 22/6c (N) ====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== ''Lion Sedge'' 21/6b (N) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Climb the arete until a ledge where one can scramble off right to the tree abseil. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== ''Simbarama'' 21/6b (N) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. Either scramble off to the right or abseil from tree 5m to the right. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== '' Feel Ion'' 23/6c (N) ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== ''Night Puff'' 21/6b (N) ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (21), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) .

==== ''Mane Course'' 25/7a+ (N) ====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree 5m to the left. Concensus grading needed, maybe 26. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

[[Image:MainCourse.jpg|400px]] 
''Mane Course'' 25/26 (N) 
The line just to the right is In Progress (R. Halsey)

==== ''Godsend'' 22/6b+ (N) ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 7m right of ''Mane Course'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably harder if you are short. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Updated route list as of 14/11/2011. Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of Uncle Albert and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between Rodney and Ayoba.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer, Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of Luvely Jubbly.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of The Craving.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Power struggle nov 2011.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

==== Political Solution (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== Ayoba (22) ====
20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION.
After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Feathered Delight (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== {Name to follow} (15) ====
20m Natural [Photo 2] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Windy Block (14) ====
20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov.
{Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== ''Bender Blender'' 22/6b+ (N) ====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|250px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

==== ''Cash Connection'' 19/6a (N) ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== ''Grit-Slide'' 24R/7a (N) ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|300px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

Lion's Head

2011-11-16T10:43:09Z

Climbza:

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Note that some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope, always put a knot in the end of the rope). A visiting Scottish climber lost his life due to this aspect. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness /23 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Teatime is Over 7a/24 1B
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
FA: R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
 Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches 

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===
 
==== ''Asteroid'' 22/6c (N) ====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== ''Lion Sedge'' 21/6b (N) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Climb the arete until a ledge where one can scramble off right to the tree abseil. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== ''Simbarama'' 21/6b (N) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. Either scramble off to the right or abseil from tree 5m to the right. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== '' Feel Ion'' 23/6c (N) ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== ''Night Puff'' 21/6b (N) ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (21), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) .

==== ''Mane Course'' 25/7a+ (N) ====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree 5m to the left. Concensus grading needed, maybe 26. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

[[Image:MainCourse.jpg|400px]] 
''Mane Course'' 25/26 (N) 
The line just to the right is In Progress (R. Halsey)

==== ''Godsend'' 22/6b+ (N) ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 7m right of ''Mane Course'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably harder if you are short. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

==== Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of Uncle Albert and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between Rodney and Ayoba.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== Ayoba 20m (22) ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Political Solution 20m (16) ====
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer, Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of Luvely Jubbly.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of The Craving.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Power struggle nov 2011.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

==== Political Solution (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== Ayoba (22) ====
20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION.
After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Feathered Delight (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== {Name to follow} (15) ====
20m Natural [Photo 2] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Windy Block (14) ====
20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov.
{Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== ''Bender Blender'' 22/6b+ (N) ====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|250px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

==== ''Cash Connection'' 19/6a (N) ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== ''Grit-Slide'' 24R/7a (N) ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|300px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

File:Power struggle nov 2011.jpg

2011-11-16T09:58:38Z

Climbza: Power Struggle Area, Lions Head

Power Struggle Area, Lions Head

Pinnacle Gorge

2011-11-16T09:38:30Z

Climbza:

*[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/pinnacle_gorge.pdf Pinnacle Gorge Intro PDF Download]

*[http://eas.mcsa.org.za/Rock%20Climbing/Pinnacle%20Gorge%201.pdf Pinnacle Gorge Part 1]
*[http://eas.mcsa.org.za/Rock%20Climbing/Pinnacle%20Gorge%202.pdf Pinnacle Gorge Part 2]
*[http://eas.mcsa.org.za/Rock%20Climbing/Pinnacle%20Gorge%203.pdf Pinnacle Gorge Part 3]
*[http://eas.mcsa.org.za/Rock%20Climbing/Pinnacle%20Gorge%204.pdf Pinnacle Gorge Part 4]
*[http://eas.mcsa.org.za/Rock%20Climbing/Pinnacle%20Gorge%205.pdf Pinnacle Gorge Part 5]

Bolting information

2011-11-15T14:16:11Z

Climbza:

==Source==
At the time of creating this page, all information sourced from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]
 
"Alan Jarvis and Joffrey Hyman set about to do some proper testing of different bolt types in different rock types"

==General==
'''(Be sure to check out these bolting pages too)''' 
[[http://www.climb.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund Anchor Replacement Fund]] 
[[http://www.climb.co.za/montagu-bolting-fund Montagu Bolting Fund]] 
[[http://www.climb.co.za/2011/10/quasimodo-bolt-corrosion-investigation Quasimodo Bolt Corrosion Investigation]]
 
Bolting has grown up in a rather informal environment. Often climbers wish to bolt or open a route and then proceed to ask their friends how. Knowledge on bolting is dependant on users preferences, budgets and individual skills and savvy. As a result many bolted routes today have bad bolts, some homemade, many very rusted and often badly positioned too.

Alan Jarvis and Joffrey Hyman set about to do some proper testing of different bolt types in different rock types. Many of the previously used bolts were also tested to try and acertain how safe they really are.

==Test Results for Soft Sandstone==
The first test results are out. We set out to test bolts, especially U-bolts (staples) in soft sandstone as is found in the Freestate and areas in Kwazulu/Natal. There is a concern about the integrity of the anchors due to the soft/friable nature of the rock. Alan Jarvis & Joffrey Hyman did the testing at Swinburne, south of Harrismith. The rock here is very similar to Mount Everest Crag, Harrismith. To date, routes at Swinburne have been bolted using mainly glued-in Ubolts from various sources. Mnt Everest has both expansion bolts and a few types of U-bolts.

A hydraulic testing machine from UPat was used which was calibrated before the testing. It is equipped with a hydraulic piston and pressure gage. A testing rig was also manufcactured in order to test the bolts in tension, as well as in shear.

The testing was done over two days with most of the drilling and glueing done on the first day. Both the Epidermix 372 and Hilti HY-150 glue which were used were given 24 hours to cure.
 
44 bolts were placed of the following types: 
(1) Davies 7mm U-bolt 
(2) Long 8mm U-bolt 
(3) Wide 8mm U-bolt 
(4) Short 10mm U-bolt 
(5) Medium 12mm U-bolt 
(6) Short 12mm U-bolt 
(7) Hilti mechanical expansion bolt 
(8) M10 glue-in stud (two different glues) 
(9) M8 glue-in stud 
 
At least three tests on each variety of bolt in both tension and shear mode were attemped but due to time, battery, and glue restraints a few instances were not tested. The results do however allow analysis of both the existing bolts and potential others.

(Links & docs to be added)
Full Report
Summary of Testing
Test Results
Images of Test Rig & Bolts used/ pulled
Recommendations

==Test Results for Hard Sandstone ==
None available

==Bad Bolts ==
Examples of some bad bolts found at Fernkloof in Magaliesberg. Most of these have already been replaced.

(Images to be uploaded & linked)
Plated bolt in Fernkloof
Top Anchor of Faberge
Crux bolt on Faberge

==Web Resources ==
*[[http://www.safeclimbing.com ASCA]], American Safe Climbing Association, excellent recomendations on bolting, replacements etc.
*[[http://www.dtek.chalmers.se/Climbing/Hardware/howtobolt.html Chalmers]], information on how to bolt etc.
*[[http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/bolts.html Fish Products]], Information and supply of bolts etc.
*[[http://www.fixeusa.com Fixe]], Hangers, & other anchors
*[[http://www.hilti.com Hilti]], manufacturer of drills, glues and bolts.
*[[http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/hangers.htm Metolius Hangers]], hangers including a special rap-hanger.
*[[http://www.petzl.com/FRENG/franchors/anchorframe.html Petzl]], supplier of bolts including eye-bolts.
*[[http://www.pikamtn.com Pika Mountaineering]], Suppliers of a wide range of bolts and drilling equipment.
*[[http://www.upat.com UPat]], manufacturer of bolts and glues.
*[[http://www.ushba.com/product_info.html USHBA]], manufacturer of titanium products etc.

Redhill

2011-11-14T13:24:42Z

Climbza:

An easily accessible area, with rock very similar to Topside.

'''*Note:''' This area is closed subject to the approval of an Environmental Management Plan (EMP).

== The climbing ==
The climbing of all grades (3-7c+/8a) ranges from technical slabs to burly roofs and is on bullet hard sandstone with good friction, i.e. very similar to Topside.

== Map ==
<googlemap lat="-34.18377" lon="18.388313" zoom="17">-34.1917, 18.4272, Simon's Town, South Africa-34.189796, 18.412496-34.185962, 18.397272-34.185554, 18.392959-34.184897, 18.392487-34.18527, 18.392036-34.184409, 18.39047-34.181995, 18.387058</googlemap>

Please visit [http://www.cutloose.co.za Marijus`s site] for topos and detailed directions.

Higgovale Quarry

2011-11-08T10:59:45Z

Climbza:

A man made quarry that was used as a shooting range and now by climbers. A good place for beginners to learn the ropes, mostly easy routes, but it also has some harder ones. 2 min walk to crag. Granite. 50m rope fine.

== The climbing ==
Located in a suburb below Table Mountain, this quarry was once a shooting range. The routes are all slab/face climbs and are all bolted. It is possible to walk round to the top and put topropes on most of the routes. About 15 routes. Grades vary from 13/4c - 23/6c.

== Getting there ==
From Cape Town, drive up Long Street into Kloof Street and up towards Table Mountain. Turn left into Camp Street, then three blocks further turn right into Molteno Rd. Drive past the Molteno Reservoir, all the way up and the turn right at the top into Glencoe Rd. Park at the Cul de Sac.... walk-in is 22 seconds from there.

== Alternatively ==

If you’re heading up Kloofnek Road, find your way to Kloof Road (parallel to Kloofnek Road). Turn down into Camp Street and right again into Molteno Road. Follow it up the hill and near the top turn right into Glencoe Crescent. Go all the way to the end and park on the side of the road in front of the boom. Follow the obvious path into the quarry through the bricked-up entrance gate.

Many thanks to Niel Mostert for taking photos and compiling the names and grades.

== The Cinema == 
[[Image:Higgovale_quarry_01.jpg]] 
 
Many of these routes have hangers missing, but topropes could possibly be rigged with some creative effort. Routes 4,5 and 8 are quite good.
 
1. Nameless#1 10 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
2. Nameless#2 15 [2B] S. Kets 2001 
3. Cliffhanger 16 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
4. K2 19 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
5. Vertical Limit 18 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
6. Nameless#6 13 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
7. Jagged Edge 12 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
8. Himalaya 14 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
 

== The Peanut Gallery == 
[[Image:higgovale_quarry_02.jpg]]
 
1. Fingertip Fallacy 14 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
2. Every...s Fantasy 14 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
3. Eugenius 19 [4B] BB S. Kets/FA G.Irwin? 2001 
4. Torn Finger 18 [5B] A. Hartung & S. Kets 2000 
5. Digital Crack 15 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
6. 20% for Woodwork 25 [4B] N.Mostert 2009 
7. Phalanges Arete 18 [3B] S. Kets 2001 
 
== The Polling Booth == 
[[Image:higgovale_quarry_03.jpg]] 
 
1. Easy Victory 12 [5B] 
2. FW Who? 14 [5B] 
3. Nebulous Pathway 16 [6B] 
4. Mandela Magic 18 [5B] 
5. Stompie 19 [5B] 
6. Stompie Variation 19 [5B] 
7. Another Nefarious Crack 21 [7B] 
8. Cast Your Vote 23/24 [6B] 
9. Absolute Interpreter 28 [6B] N.Mostert 2010 Start a few metres to the right of Another Nefarious Crack, climb the face to meet up with A.N.C. again 
10. Umshini Wami 29 [6B] N. Mostert 2011
 

==TOPO== 
This is the topo that Sean Kets drew in 2004. 
[[File:Higgovale_handwrite_up.jpg]]

File:Higgovale handwrite up.jpg

2011-11-08T10:46:03Z

Climbza:

Strubens 2

2011-11-08T06:05:27Z

Climbza:

==Download PDF==
*[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Strubens%20II%20Sport.pdf Download the Strubens II Sport Topo] NB: this is a 65kb PDF
*[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Strubens%20II%20Boulder.pdf Download the Strubens II BoulderTopo] NB: this is a 510kb PDF

== The climbing ==

== Getting there ==
Lat 26.1248'S Long27.887'E

From Strubens1 /Hendrik Potgieter:

Turn from Potgieter Onto Christian De wet and head up towards Krugersdorp and Ontdekkers.

About Halfway up, turn right onto Wilgerood, head up that till the 2nd Traffic Light.

Right onto Topaz

Left onto Malachite until the end, then head through the hole in the fence.

[[File:strubens2.JPG]]

== Food and accommodation ==

== Guide Books/References ==

== Areas ==

File:Strubens2.JPG

2011-11-08T06:03:08Z

Climbza: Strubens 2 map

Strubens 2 map

File:IMG 3358.jpg

2011-11-04T07:01:37Z

Climbza: Sean from Ireland on 'You go first' (16)

Sean from Ireland on 'You go first' (16)

File:Boldandbeautiful r1 c2.jpg

2011-11-04T06:53:05Z

Climbza: Bold and the Beautiful 2nd edition Dec 2011

Bold and the Beautiful 2nd edition Dec 2011

Oudtshoorn

2011-11-02T13:31:20Z

Climbza: /* Main Crag */

World Class Sport Climbing 30 km north of Oudtshoorn (near the Cango Caves). The rock is limestone and the routes are mostly overhanging with awesome stalactites. There are +/-30 single pitch bolted routes, up to 35m long. The climbing is located around the De Hoek Resort camp site.

== Getting There ==

Oudtshoorn is about five or six hours' drive from Cape Town. Take the N1 to Worcester, then turn off onto the R60 towards Robertson. Drive through Robertson and Ashton to Montagu. From Montagu, take the R62 and pass through Barrydale, Ladismith, Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn. From Oudtshoorn, follow the signs towards the Cango Caves. About 30 km from Oudtshoorn (and 1 km ''before'' the Cango Caves), turn left into the Prins Albert road. Drive for 5km to the De Hoek turnoff (on the right). De Hoek is about 1 km down the road.

[http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?address=&city=Oudtshoorn&state=Cape%20Province&zipcode=&country=ZA&title=%3cb%3eOudtshoorn%2c%20Cape%20Province%20ZA%3c%2fb%3e&cid=lfmaplink2&name= Mapquest map encompassing the Western Cape.]

[http://www.sa.caravanparks.com/resorts/AdvancedDirections.asp?id=120 Map to De Hoek from Oudtshoorn]

== Food & Accommodation ==

Oudshoorn is the nearest big town - so stock up on all your food and supplies before heading off tho the camp site. The De Hoek Campsite is great. Check out their website at http://www.dehoekmountainresort.co.za. Contact: Campsite - De Hoek Mountain Resort En Route to Swartberg Pass Tel. (044) 272 8214 phone for Reservations. If you are only climbing for the day, you will need to purchase a permit from the entrance of the campsite.

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 60m rope, if you've got a 70m rope, even better.

== Season ==
All year round. It can be rather hot in Summer, but the main crag enters the shade in the late morning.

==Download PDF==
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Oudtshoorn_Main_Wall.pdf Download the Oudtshoorn Main Wall Update October 2004] (169kB PDF)

== Areas ==
There are several limestone crags all of which are within short walking distance from the campsite.

=== Initiation Sector ===

This sector is located on the grey slab next to the path going to the main crag. The path to the main crag begins about 100m outside the entrance to De Hoek. There are routes from grade 16 to 22.

* '''Deja vu a la Buoux''' 22
* '''Initiation ''' 20
* '''Pins and Needles''' 18
* '''Southern Cross''' 16
* '''Dr Stein''' 18
* '''Ride the Sky''' 18,
* '''Victim of Fate''' 19

=== Main Crag ===

One of the best collections of climbs in SA. The path to the main crag begins about 100m outside the entrance to De Hoek.

Below is a draft topo of the Main Crag by Roger Nattrass 
[[File:oudtshoorn-topo-01.jpg]]

Routes (from left to right)

* '''Streetfighter''' (34) FA: Grant Campbell (2006) a.k.a. 'Two to win' the name given by Canadian Grant Campbell who opened the route. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth the more popular SA variant has stuck. Was the hardest route in Africa until Mazawattee (35/8c+).
* '''Kohler-Turkstra''' (31) FA: Tommy Caldwell (1998)
* '''Bigfoot''' (26) FA: Jason Temple-Forbes (2006)
* '''Paws''' (26) ***** FA: Jeremy Colenso previously known as Tears for Fears
* '''Mama Africa''' (31)
* '''Sid Vicious''' (27)
* '''Lost Safari''' (28) extension to Sid Vicious
* '''Up for Grabs''' (31) FA: Tommy Caldwell (1998)
* '''Fin Fang Fly''' (24) FA: Jason Temple-Forbes (2006) start up Goonie Goo Goo then branch off left.
* '''Goonie Goo Goo''' (22) FA: Deon Hugo (1997)
* '''Filthy Gorgeous''' (23) FA: Scott Miller (2006)
* '''Phallic Mechanic''' (24) FA: Paul Schlotfeldt (1996)
* '''Squeeze Play''' (22) FA: Scott Miller (2006)
* '''Johnny Rotten''' (27) FA: Jeremy Colenso
* '''El Nino''' (30) ***** FA: Jeremy Colenso
* '''Seven''' (32) FA: Tommy Caldwell (1998)
* '''Seven (Wimp Finish)''' (29) FA: Jeremy Colenso (1998)
* '''Rapscallion La Codge''' (24) Mike Roberts (1997)
* '''Bitter and Twisted''' (26) FA: Jeremy Colenso (1998)
* '''Project'''
* '''Jason's Route''' (25) FA: Jason Temple-Forbes (2006) this route is on the far right of the crag Originaly bolted by Scott Miller but shamefully opened by JTF!

=== Curiosity Crag ===
Up and right from The Watch Tower, a large crag with a slabby base
* '''Curiosity killed the cat''' (22) FA: Scott Noy 2006 (may need higher chains because of rope drag)

=== The Watch Tower ===
Left of the Main Crag, the small tower-like crag. Follow the path from the main crag up and across to access.
From Left to Right:
* '''All along the Watchtower''' (19) FA: Scott Noy (2006)
* '''Dust till Dawn''' (21) FA: Scott Miller 2006
* '''Supafly''' (21) FA: Scott Miller 2006

=== Skinny Legs wall ===
Follow the path on from the street fighter side of main crag, head down a bit, across a bit and up a bit to the Bushman's cave (Cave entrance obscured by bushes), Scramble up to a blocky ledge left of the cave using the metal staples (Thanks to Douw Steyn).
L to R
* '''Closed project''' Sean Maarsh - follows break veering left
* '''Skinny legs''' (27) 30m FA: Jimbo Smith (2008) start on tufas, up yellow wall to top tupha system
* '''Closed project''' Douw Steyn up slab onto overhanging face

=== The Incredibles wall ===
Follow the path on from the street fighter side of main crag, head down a bit, across a bit. Continue down the path where it branches up to skinny legs. Dodge some pot holes. 

*'''Mr Incredible''' (31/32) FA: Jason Temple Forbes (very long line running up the entire left side of the overhang) - Check the knot in the end of your rope! 
*'''Closed project: Beth Higgins and Jason Temple Forbes''' (step off viewing platform to finish at chains of Mr Incredible) 

=== Short Circuit Sector ===

On the other side of the road from the Main Crag. As of Dec 2008 there are some new routes/projects not listed here.

* '''Short Circuit''' (31) FA: Jeremy Colenso (1998) A roof climb on the obvious looong roof.
* '''Closed Project: Live Wire.''' BB Jamie Smith
* '''Behr Hug''' (24) FA: Mike Behr (1997) A classic! 
* '''Chicks Dig It''' (18) 
* '''Chicks Dig It Too''' (20) 
* '''Gillette''' (20) 

== Logistics ==
De Hoek Campsite is a great place to camp as it is walking distance from the crag and has swimming pools, hot showers and other niceties.

Chalets are available at the De Hoek Resort. A four-sleeper costs R250 per chalet per night (March 2009).

De Hoek sells sweets and cold drinks and firewood. The closest place to buy other food is Oudtshoorn.

== Photos ==

[[Image:JtfUpForGrabs.JPG|center|frame|Up For Grabs 31]]

[[Image:KfBehrHug.jpg|center|frame|Behr Hug 24]]

[[Image:KfOnBigfoot.jpg|center|frame|Bigfoot 26]]

== Other activities ==

There are some caves near the crag. Ask the locals where they are, if you know what you are doing. Otherwise guided trips through the Cango Caves are your best bet. You can also ride ostriches, camels and quad bikes, or check out the big cat breeding programme at the wildlife ranch just outside of Oudtshoorn. The Swartberg pass offers a nice alternative route back to CT via Prince Albert and the N1.

File:Oudtshoorn-topo-01.jpg

2011-11-02T13:26:30Z

Climbza: Oudtshoorn Rock Climbing Topo

Oudtshoorn Rock Climbing Topo

The Fort

2011-10-28T09:26:16Z

Climbza: Created page with 'The Fort is the general area around the Old English fort that stands on top of the Tunnel on your way into Montagu. '''The Boer and the Brit''' (21) - walk down to the wall ne…'

The Fort is the general area around the Old English fort that stands on top of the Tunnel on your way into Montagu.

'''The Boer and the Brit''' (21) - walk down to the wall next to the river (the base occasionally gets covered by water, but you can normally traverse in and avoid getting yourself and your rope wet). The route is 40m long and you belay from the top and walk down. This route is best climbed in early morning to avoid the wind.
 

'''The Wall of Confusion Area'''
Walk through the tunnel to the other side - the crag is on your left.

Kloof Gorge

2011-10-25T06:28:16Z

Climbza:

Areas

* The Boneyard [http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/kloof/boneyard]
* Rumdoodle [http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/kloof/rumdoodle]
* Boothill
* The Cellar
* The Gutter
* The Canyon [http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/kloof/canyon---rds]
* The Laboratory
* The Powerhouse

''' Please note: '''

* Seasonal closure of The Canyon – Kloof Gorge [http://www.climb.co.za/2011/10/kloof-gorge-seasonal-closure-of-the-canyon/]

Climbers are reminded of the closure of The Canyon in the Kloof Gorge annually, from 1 October to 31 December.

The crag is closed during this period as a pair of Wahlbergs Eagles are nesting close by. Failure to comply with this restriction could result in the permanent closure of the crag.

Your cooperation is appreciated.

Kind regards, 
Johann Vermeulen 
Manager Krantzkloof Nature Reserve 
082 931 8335

Swinburne

2011-10-21T10:13:11Z

Climbza:

Below Information Takes from [http://www.saclimb.co.za SAClimb]

== Basic Info ==
Swinburne is a little village just off the N3, south of Harrismith. It is a very beautiful area strewn with good boulders, some with bolted routes. The main mountain, Rensburgkop also has multi-pitch sport routes. There is a huge potential for new routes and bouldering in this area.

The Main Mountain can be seen in the image to the right as well as the boulders scattered around it. Keep in mind that the mountain extends much further southward and offers much more rock than can be seen here.

Access
The crags and boulders are on private property which is shared by the Bald Ibis Hiking Trail. Please call ahead if you plan to visit. Sometimes hikers or events block book the barn. The house can also be booked. When staying in the 2-bed rooms, the kitchen in the main house is at your disposal.

PLEASE CALL Elzeri on 058 672-1013 or 084 516 6820 TO BOOK, BEFORE ARRIVING and to get directions. She is sometimes out of cell range, please be patient and try again. Alternatively, try Frans (manager) 072 708 5965.

Please pay before leaving or we could loose access to this crag. Ansie accepts internet payments, or pay her directly when you're there.

You will see some GPS co-ordinates listed for certain problems, they are all using WGS84/Hartebeeshoek94 datum, all degrees and decimal minutes South then East. The area is open to bolting but please avoid any nesting sites of birds on the main crags.

== The Barn & Appin House ==
There is a barn in which we stay for R60 per night per person. Bunk beds, a gas stove, a fridge, firewood, hot water, hot showers and electricity are all provided. The barn can sleep about 20-25 people. You can also stay in the old farmhouse with bedding, kitchenware, a bar, a lapa and the works for R120 per person per night. The house sleeps about 12. There are now also rooms sleeping two with your own ablutions, bedding, kettle etc. also for R120 per person per night. The barn GPS is -28,22.877,29,16.576

== Food & Rest Day Stuff Etc. ==
The tiny town of Swinburne has a very basic shop and the 'Hound and Hare' restaurant and pub at the Riverview Country Lodge. There are several places to eat including a House of Coffees at the Montrose petrol station. A Steers can be found at the Caltex garage just after Montrose on the left. You can journey further into Harrismith to stock up on supplies or to go to their Spur or Nandos. Of course you could even give the 2-day hiking trail a bash or some of the shorter walks. The area is really beautiful with some small Yellowood forests, there is even a Bald Ibis Restaurant. This is also excellent mountain biking country.

== Safety & Medical ==
To date the area is very secure from theft etc. but please take the usual precautions. The soft sandstone rock tends to be quite soft and chunks can often break off. It is wise to use a helmet for belaying, especially on newer routes or when opening routes.The closest hospital is in Harrismith. At present there is no stretcher or first aid dump in the area. For serious accidents please call the MCSA Rescue team on 011 315-0203.

== Weather ==
Swinburne is within a few kilometres of the Drakensburg escarpment. As a result is attracts a variety of mountain weather. In other words it can be hot, cold, windy, misty or even snowy all in a day. Plan accordingly, bring sunblock, warm jackets, beanies etc.

== Ethics & Bolting ==
Testing was done on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes a certain kind of expansion bolt can be used. This was the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm, please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will NOT be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt can be used or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested.
Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts, there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Projects should be marked as such by placing the first bolt (preferably) or the top anchors and tying ribbon or tape around it. Since there are overseas visitors the usual 'I.P.' is often not understood.

[[Image:Swinburne_map.gif]]

Nursery Ravine

2011-08-23T12:05:46Z

Climbza: Created page with '<googlemap lat="-33.983333" lon="18.416667" version="0.9" type="hybrid" zoom="13" width="600" height="600" controls="small" overview="yes"> -33.983333, 18.416667, Nursery Ravine …'

<googlemap lat="-33.983333" lon="18.416667" version="0.9" type="hybrid" zoom="13" width="600" height="600" controls="small" overview="yes">
-33.983333, 18.416667, Nursery Ravine
</googlemap>

South African Climbing Wiki

2010-03-01T05:54:33Z

Climbza:

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
** [[Tafelberg]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Krakadow]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Towerkop]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

South African Climbing Wiki

2010-03-01T05:52:18Z

Climbza:

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
** [[Tafelberg]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Krakadow]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
*[[India Venster Trail]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Towerkop]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

File:Gd wc TheBastille.jpg

2010-02-07T08:30:04Z

Climbza:

File:Gd montaguramset.jpg

2010-02-07T08:20:18Z

Climbza: Ramset Crag

Ramset Crag

File:Gd montaguboschcrag.jpg

2010-02-07T08:18:06Z

Climbza: Bosch Crag

Bosch Crag