South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Ngopane (gaMashashane)

2010-04-01T19:31:39Z

Edmclen: /* Location: */

[[Image: Ngopane.jpg]]
== Routes: ==
To date there are two routes up the Ngopane spire: one moderate three-pitch sport route to the summit with fantastic exposure and an easy 45m trad line almost half-way up the crag. There is also an easier scramble off the back of the crag from the top-out of the trad line.

'''1. Mma-Mogašwa (11, trad, 45m)''' 
Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's eastern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders). ''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - October 2009''

'''2. Lekgowa, You're Going to Fall! (16, sport, 3 pitches, 100m)''' 
This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete. 
- Pitch 1 (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance. 
- Pitch 2 (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge. 
- Pitch 3 (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull a bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors. 
- Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground. 
''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - 1 April, 2010''

== Location: ==
Ngopane is a granite spire, nearly 100m in height, about 50 km to the north-east of Wellington's Dome, in the village of ga-Mashashane. The crag is in the middle of the village and the general reception there is friendly and chilled out.
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.931936" lon="29.125271" zoom="16">
</googlemap>

== Access: ==
Access is currently being negotiated via Kgoshi Mashashane - watch this spot for details! Note that, regardless of the access agreement agreed to, all climbers need to report at the tribal authority office before climbing. Need more details? - contact Vince at vince.egan@gmail.com.

Ngopane (gaMashashane)

2010-04-01T19:30:45Z

Edmclen: /* Routes: */

[[Image: Ngopane.jpg]]
== Routes: ==
To date there are two routes up the Ngopane spire: one moderate three-pitch sport route to the summit with fantastic exposure and an easy 45m trad line almost half-way up the crag. There is also an easier scramble off the back of the crag from the top-out of the trad line.

'''1. Mma-Mogašwa (11, trad, 45m)''' 
Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's eastern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders). ''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - October 2009''

'''2. Lekgowa, You're Going to Fall! (16, sport, 3 pitches, 100m)''' 
This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete. 
- Pitch 1 (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance. 
- Pitch 2 (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge. 
- Pitch 3 (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull a bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors. 
- Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground. 
''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - 1 April, 2010''

== Location: ==
Ngopane is a granite spire, about 70m in height, about 50 km to the north-east of Wellington's Dome, in the village of ga-Mashashane. The crag is in the middle of the village and the general reception there is friendly and chilled out.
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.931936" lon="29.125271" zoom="16">
</googlemap>

== Access: ==
Access is currently being negotiated via Kgoshi Mashashane - watch this spot for details! Note that, regardless of the access agreement agreed to, all climbers need to report at the tribal authority office before climbing. Need more details? - contact Vince at vince.egan@gmail.com.

Ngopane (gaMashashane)

2010-04-01T19:26:21Z

Edmclen: /* Routes: */

[[Image: Ngopane.jpg]]
== Routes: ==
To date there are two routes up the Ngopane spire: one moderate three-pitch sport route to the summit with fantastic exposure and an easy 45m trad line almost half-way up the crag. There is also an easier scramble off the back of the crag from the top-out of the trad line.

'''1. Mma-Mogašwa (11, trad, 45m)''' 
Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's eastern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders). ''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - October 2009''

'''2. Lekgowa, You're Going to Fall! (16, sport, 3 pitches, 100m)''' 
This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete. 
- Pitch 1 (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance. 
- Pitch 2 (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge. 
- Pitch 3 (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull the bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors. 
- Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground. 
''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - 1 April, 2010''

== Location: ==
Ngopane is a granite spire, about 70m in height, about 50 km to the north-east of Wellington's Dome, in the village of ga-Mashashane. The crag is in the middle of the village and the general reception there is friendly and chilled out.
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.931936" lon="29.125271" zoom="16">
</googlemap>

== Access: ==
Access is currently being negotiated via Kgoshi Mashashane - watch this spot for details! Note that, regardless of the access agreement agreed to, all climbers need to report at the tribal authority office before climbing. Need more details? - contact Vince at vince.egan@gmail.com.

Bronkies

2010-03-14T06:19:18Z

Edmclen: /* Route Info */

[[Image:Bronkies_rightside.JPG]]
A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

== Getting there ==

From JHB:
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn right onto the dirt road.
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. At the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn left onto the dirt road.

Follow the dirt road, pass the main dwelling. Continue for another 500 metres. Parking on the right. If you continue on for another 400m, you will find a small road with additional parking at the end.

''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Climbers should only visit the area on weekends and public holidays otherwise access during the week must be arranged directly with the owners.

Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 for adults
* R10 for school going children above 12 years old
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Follow the the dirt road and and stop "below" the main house at the cattle kraal. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:
* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. '''PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS'''
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

== Route Info ==
Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="20"|Route Name
!width="15"|Grade
!width="15"|Bolts
!width="15"|Height
!width="35"|Notes
|-
|-
|Tickled Pink ||13 * ||.||.||.
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||.
|-
|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| downgraded from 18
|-
|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||.
|-
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||.
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||.
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!
|-
|New route||8 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|New route||7 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|Derek's Dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.
|-
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||downgraded from 16
|-
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||downgraded from 18
|-
|Rastus||18 **||.||.||.Upgraded from 17
|-
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
|-
|The Fallen Boot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||downgraded from 17
|-
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
|-
|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||.
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||.
|-
|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m ||
|-
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Rat Kid||25/26 ****||.||.||Additional bolt added to avoid ground fall.
|-
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||18 ***||.||18m ||Sandbagged
|-
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m ||.
|-
|Elton's John||21 ****||13D||20m ||.
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||.
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||downgraded from 22
|-
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Grade adjusted from 19
|-
|Footloose||25 *||5D ||.||Beware of the lead-out from the last hanger to the chains.
|-
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||.
|-
|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Upgraded from 21
|-
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Wasabi||23 ***||12D||.|| * Previously mis-labeled as being run-out. Some of the bolts are hard to see from the ground, but there are no run-outs.
|-
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches
|-
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.
|-
|Fire Fly||24 ***||.||.||An extra bolt has been added to avoid a ground fall. Stiff for 23?
|-
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Upgraded on consensus, see forum.
|-
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||.
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|Black Eagles or Verreaux's Eagles??

Quote:
"
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

I hope that this is of some assistance.
Regards,
Neil Smith
Manager Conservation Division
Birdlife South Africa
Tel: (0) 11 789 1122
Fax: 0866572891
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||.
|-
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.
|-
|The Dark Half||22 ***||6D ||.|| upgraded from 20
|-
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".
|-
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||11D ||.||.
|-
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||10D ||.||Top chains moved to avoid rope damage. Take care clipping second bolt.
|-
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||23 ***||.||.||.
|-
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||14D||.||Cool!
|-
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19
|-
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.
|-
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
|-
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens.
|-
|Hector's Project|| ||.||.||
|-
|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|}

The Chosspile

2010-03-07T16:18:11Z

Edmclen: Update on rock type (quartzite, not sandstone) and day-use fee (now R50)

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Compact Quartzite

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==
'''The owners of Chosspile (or Harties) have contacted us and are not happy about climbers accessing to climbing from the dam wall side. Please go through the main entrance at the picnic site and pay the R50.'''

To get to the crags you need to get into the Crocodile River picnic site, usually this costs R50 per car. No booking is necessary. From the dam wall driving away from the quaint town of Hartebeespoort turn right at the first stop street towards Brits. There is an Engen garage on your left. Follow the road for about 1-2 km until you cross over a river. Take the first right after this dip, pay the guard and follow the road to the right then straight. Park when the road runs out and find the path going along the water. It forks after 100-200m where there is a small flat rock with ripples in it to your right. Turn left here and then stay right, the path goes up a short rocky scree slope. Follow the path staying parallel to the water channel, just after some rocks you will see a steel weir gate where you cross. Scramble up the rock slightly right and back onto a path, follow this up to the crags.

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the area lower and much further to the left from the main crag. You can either walk left from the main crag until you reach this crag or cross the weir which can be a bit muddy or deep at times. The crag is basically uphill from the ablutions as you drive in to the usual parking spot. Currently the best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the end of the car parking in the picnic area, then head up the path which traverses up and right and takes you alongside a concrete sluice channel. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. Turn left at a split in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. There is still more potential for routes at most grades. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown (in brackets) after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MYRTLE 23 *** [7D,A]''' (The original grade was given before a significant jug on the lip of the overhang was literally unearthed. Suggested new grade 20)
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''New Route SALAZAR suggested grade 18''' 
Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.
First ascent: February 2010 Daniel Hannah, bolted by David Tapp

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
Start 2m to the right of SALAZAR. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make an early ground fall less likely.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''THE BLOODY BARON 15*** [12B,A]''' 
Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''QUIDDITCH 23**** [7B,A]''' (Suggested consensus grade 22)
This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
First ascent: 2008 Neil Margetts.

'''New Route -- THE BALLS OF HAGRID suggested grade 20 [9B,A]''' 
Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
First ascent: David Tapp January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts

'''New Route -- THE SLAB OF SNAPE suggested grade 15 [15B,A]''' 
The first route on the main face.
Climb up a series of ledges then up to good holds under a roof/overhang. Move left under the roof and up the slab to the chains, moving either left or right (easier)at the crux.
PLEASE NOTE: 60m rope essential, 15 quickdraws. Some dirt can be expected on the holds, until rain washes it down (shouldn't take long at the moment!!) as much gardening was needed to prepare this route (25.1.10).
First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2010. Bolted by Neil Margetts/David Tapp

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''A variation of Slitherin 18''' heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CROOKSHANKS 16*** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Step up right onto a ledge to clip the first bolt. Move left and then up. Fun climbing, with the last bit the crux. F.A. Neil Margetts 2007

Approximately 8m to the right is...

'''New Route ROWLING'S RAMBLE 13 (suggested grade) [6D,A]''' 
Start to the right of a big green bush. Follow a groove to a large ledge, then up another groove on the right to finish on a second prominent ledge. The anchors are to the left and up, on the left side of a massive block. A direct variation goes from the first large ledge straight up the headwall to the anchors. Suggested grade 16.
First ascent and bolted by David Tapp January 2010

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts 4m right of ROWLING'S RAMBLE, on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

'''New Route DRACO'S SNAKE 11 (suggested grade) [6B,A]''' 
The start of the route is to the the right of CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS and about 4m lower. Take a path which passes under the start of C&S heading towards one of the descent routes of the crag. Beware the nettle trees! The climb starts up a corner/groove to a large ledge/terrace, then follows another groove onto a face to finish on a comfortable ledge. There are two anchors which only become obvious when topping out.
First ascent: Lize Boshoff January 2010 Bolted by David Tapp

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the gully. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the routes including the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''OPEN PROJECT [BA]''' 
This is the extension to DONT DECK which traverses out left under the roof above DONT DECK and then breaks through using a good under cling and then over two more roofs to the top. This route will definitely be a classic once opened. But be sure to take some long and short slings for the traverse and roofs.

'''DONT DECK 23 **** [B,A,R]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark olver. A classic route.

'''DONT DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DONT DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Oliver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''FOSSIL FUEL 31 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag to the right of the main gully. These are the first climbs you come to when following the usual walk in, basically the crags to the right of the gully.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SMEAGOL 22 [?B,A]''' 
This route goes up the arete halfway between the unknown route and Sauron. Also left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''MIDDLE EARTH 12 [?B,A]''' 
Immediately right of Smeagol. Starts in or just right of the recess 5m left of Sauron.
First Ascent: 2008, Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock. The hanger is missing from the final bolt (Jan 2010), causing quite a lead-out to the chains (crux) with the potential of decking on the ledge below. Climbers pushing their grades beware!
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

Bronkies

2009-12-16T07:06:18Z

Edmclen:

[[Image:Bronkies_rightside.JPG]]
A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

== Getting there ==

From JHB:
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn right onto the dirt road.
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. At the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn left onto the dirt road.

Follow the dirt road, pass the main dwelling. Continue for another 500 metres. Parking on the right. If you continue on for another 400m, you will find a small road with additional parking at the end.

''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Climbers should only visit the area on weekends and public holidays otherwise access during the week must be arranged directly with the owners.

Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 for adults
* R10 for school going children above 12 years old
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Follow the the dirt road and and stop "below" the main house at the cattle kraal. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:
* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. '''PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS'''
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

== Route Info ==
Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="20"|Route Name
!width="15"|Grade
!width="15"|Bolts
!width="15"|Height
!width="35"|Notes
|-
|-
|Tickled Pink ||13 * ||.||.||.
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||.
|-
|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| downgraded from 18
|-
|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||.
|-
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||.
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||.
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!
|-
|New route||8 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|New route||7 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|Derek's Dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.
|-
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||downgraded from 16
|-
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||downgraded from 18
|-
|Rastus||18 **||.||.||.Upgraded from 17
|-
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
|-
|The Fallen Boot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||downgraded from 17
|-
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
|-
|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||.
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||.
|-
|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m ||
|-
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Rat Kid||25/26 ****||.||.||Additional bolt added to avoid ground fall.
|-
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||18 ***||.||18m ||Sandbagged
|-
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m ||.
|-
|Elton's John||21 ****||13D||20m ||.
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||.
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||downgraded from 22
|-
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Grade adjusted from 19
|-
|Footloose||25 *||5D ||.||Beware of the lead-out from the last hanger to the chains.
|-
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||.
|-
|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Upgraded from 21
|-
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Wasabi||24 ***||11D||.|| Look for the chains, chains ridiculously high, LONG runouts!!
|-
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches
|-
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. BEWARE!! THE FOOT GRIP AT THE BOTTOM HAS BEEN BROKEN OFF WHICH MAKES CLIPPING THE SECOND BOLT RATHER DIFFICULT. OPENING PARTY ARE RE-LOOKING AT THE BOLTS AND WILL RECTIFY SHORTLY.
|-
|Fire Fly||23 ***||.||.||An extra bolt has been added to avoid a ground fall. Stiff for 23?
|-
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Upgraded on concensus, see forum.
|-
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||.
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|Black Eagles or Verreaux's Eagles??

Quote:
"
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

I hope that this is of some assistance.
Regards,
Neil Smith
Manager Conservation Division
Birdlife South Africa
Tel: (0) 11 789 1122
Fax: 0866572891
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||.
|-
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.
|-
|The Dark Half||22 ***||6D ||.|| upgraded from 20
|-
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".
|-
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||11D ||.||.
|-
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||10D ||.||Top chains moved to avoid rope damage. Take care clipping second bolt.
|-
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||23 ***||.||.||.
|-
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||14D||.||Cool!
|-
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19
|-
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.
|-
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
|-
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens.
|-
|Hector's Project|| ||.||.||
|-
|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|}

File:Bronkies rightside.JPG

2009-12-16T06:57:35Z

Edmclen: A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

Bronkies

2009-12-03T11:55:28Z

Edmclen: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

From JHB:
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn right onto the dirt road.
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. At the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn left onto the dirt road.

Follow the dirt road, pass the main dwelling. Continue for another 500 metres. Parking on the right. If you continue on for another 400m, you will find a small road with additional parking at the end.

''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''

<center>
�UNIQ102c3c284818f64f-googlemap-00000001-QINU
</center>

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Climbers should only visit the area on weekends and public holidays otherwise access during the week must be arranged directly with the owners.

Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 for adults
* R10 for school going children above 12 years old
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Follow the the dirt road and and stop "below" the main house at the cattle kraal. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:
* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. '''PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS'''
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

== Route Info ==
Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="20"|Route Name
!width="15"|Grade
!width="15"|Bolts
!width="15"|Height
!width="35"|Notes
|-
|-
|Tickled Pink ||13 * ||.||.||.
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||.
|-
|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| downgraded from 18
|-
|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||.
|-
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||.
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||.
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!
|-
|New route||8 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|New route||7 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|Derek's Dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.
|-
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||downgraded from 16
|-
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||downgraded from 18
|-
|Rastus||18 **||.||.||.Upgraded from 17
|-
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
|-
|The Fallen Boot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||downgraded from 17
|-
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
|-
|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||.
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||.
|-
|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m ||
|-
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Rat Kid||25/26 ****||.||.||Additional bolt added to avoid ground fall.
|-
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||18 ***||.||18m ||Sandbagged
|-
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m ||.
|-
|Elton's John||21 ****||13D||20m ||.
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||.
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||downgraded from 22
|-
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Grade adjusted from 19
|-
|Footloose||25 *||5D ||.||Beware of the lead-out from the last hanger to the chains.
|-
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||.
|-
|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Upgraded from 21
|-
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Wasabi||24 ***||11D||.|| Look for the chains, chains ridiculously high, LONG runouts!!
|-
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches
|-
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. BEWARE!! THE FOOT GRIP AT THE BOTTOM HAS BEEN BROKEN OFF WHICH MAKES CLIPPING THE SECOND BOLT RATHER DIFFICULT. OPENING PARTY ARE RE-LOOKING AT THE BOLTS AND WILL RECTIFY SHORTLY.
|-
|Fire Fly||23 ***||.||.||An extra bolt has been added to avoid a ground fall. Stiff for 23?
|-
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Upgraded on concensus, see forum.
|-
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||.
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|Black Eagles or Verreaux's Eagles??

Quote:
"
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

I hope that this is of some assistance.
Regards,
Neil Smith
Manager Conservation Division
Birdlife South Africa
Tel: (0) 11 789 1122
Fax: 0866572891
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||.
|-
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.
|-
|The Dark Half||22 ***||6D ||.|| upgraded from 20
|-
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".
|-
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||11D ||.||.
|-
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||10D ||.||Top chains moved to avoid rope damage. Take care clipping second bolt.
|-
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||23 ***||.||.||.
|-
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||14D||.||Cool!
|-
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19
|-
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.
|-
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
|-
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens.
|-
|Hector's Project|| ||.||.||
|-
|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|}

Bronkies

2009-11-22T03:54:53Z

Edmclen: /* Route Info */

== Getting there ==

From JHB:
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn right onto the dirt road.
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. At the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry). Turn left onto the dirt road.

Follow the dirt road, pass the main dwelling. Continue for another 500 metres. Parking on the right. If you continue on for another 400m, you will find a small road with additional parking at the end.

''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''

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== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Climbers should only visit the area on weekends and public holidays otherwise access during the week must be arranged directly with the owners.

Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 for adults
* R10 for school going children above 12 years old
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Follow the the dirt road and and stop "below" the main house at the cattle kraal. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:
* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. '''PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS'''
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

== Route Info ==
Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="20"|Route Name
!width="15"|Grade
!width="15"|Bolts
!width="15"|Height
!width="35"|Notes
|-
|-
|Tickled Pink ||13 * ||.||.||.
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||.
|-
|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| downgraded from 18
|-
|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||.
|-
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||.
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||.
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!
|-
|New route||8 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|New route||7 ||.||.||very easy
|-
|Derek's Dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.
|-
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||downgraded from 16
|-
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||downgraded from 18
|-
|Rastus||18 **||.||.||.Upgraded from 17
|-
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
|-
|The Fallen Boot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||downgraded from 17
|-
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
|-
|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||.
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||.
|-
|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m ||
|-
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Rat Kid||25/26 ****||.||.||Additional bolt added to avoid ground fall.
|-
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||18 ***||.||18m ||Sandbagged
|-
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m ||.
|-
|Elton's John||21 ****||13D||20m ||.
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||.
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||downgraded from 22
|-
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Grade adjusted from 19
|-
|Footloose||25 *||5D ||.||Beware of the lead-out from the last hanger to the chains.
|-
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||.
|-
|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Upgraded from 21
|-
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Wasabi||24 ***||11D||.|| Look for the chains, chains ridiculously high, LONG runouts!!
|-
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||.||.||.
|-
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. BEWARE!! THE FOOT GRIP AT THE BOTTOM HAS BEEN BROKEN OFF WHICH MAKES CLIPPING THE SECOND BOLT RATHER DIFFICULT. OPENING PARTY ARE RE-LOOKING AT THE BOLTS AND WILL RECTIFY SHORTLY.
|-
|Fire Fly||23 ***||.||.||An extra bolt has been added to avoid a ground fall. Stiff for 23?
|-
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Upgraded on concensus, see forum.
|-
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||.
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|Black Eagles or Verreaux's Eagles??

Quote:
"
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

I hope that this is of some assistance.
Regards,
Neil Smith
Manager Conservation Division
Birdlife South Africa
Tel: (0) 11 789 1122
Fax: 0866572891
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||.
|-
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.
|-
|The Dark Half||22 ***||6D ||.|| upgraded from 20
|-
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".
|-
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||11D ||.||.
|-
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||8D ||.||Top chains moved to avoid rope damage.
|-
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||23 ***||.||.||.
|-
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||14D||.||Cool!
|-
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19
|-
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.
|-
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
|-
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens.
|-
|Hector's Project|| ||.||.||
|-
|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|}

Wellingtons Dome

2009-08-11T05:03:07Z

Edmclen: /* Route Description */

Multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane with many good multi-pitch routes (up to 7P)

== The climbing ==
There are several granite outcrops around the countryside. One of these is called 'Blinkkoppe' on the Gillemberg farm which is currently being developed with permission from the farmer. There is excellent potential for good multi-pitch sport routes on this, and possibly other of the granite outcrops. The climbing is good with mainly edges on long faces, usually slightly on angle. Some of these faces reach 150m in height. The area is very hot so it is advisable to keep the climbing to between 8 am to 11 am, go back to the farmhouse for lunch or climb on south facing climbs and climb again from 2 until late. '''Avoid the main dome between 11am and 2pm except during winter. NB make sure you get a car guard from Jaap, as there has been some petty theft in the past.'''

== Season ==
Mainly Winter, but also Spring & Autumn

== Rock ==
Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle

== Gear ==
Sport Rack: Up to 18 quickdraws & Rope (50m or longer). Some of the climbs have 40m or longer pitches so escape with one rope could be difficult.

== Getting there ==
Take the N1 to Pretoria to Mokopane (the town used to be called Potgietersrus). Drive straight into Mokopane, a half way through the town you will see two garages on each side of the road, turn left directly at these into Nelson Mandela Drive. Drive for about 36km past the concrete bus stop to Jaap’s farm house on the right just after a small shop/stall. Go in, unpack, put the fresh stuff in the fridge, and a car guard. To get to the climbing, drive back about 5 km to where there is a gate in the electric fence surrounding the property (on the south side of the road).On the way to the main dome (where the road ends), you will pass the Sarcophagus area on your right hand side. And the main dome is further on. There is some bouldering near the back and to the left of the Sarcophagus.

== Food and accommodation ==
Please camp in the area provided by the farmer Jaap Möller, which is on the lawn outside the Lapa. The camping has ablutions etc. Camping MUST be arranged beforehand. You can contact the farmer, Jaap, on 072 425 0349 for booking and arranging of camping. There is a fridge and a stove, but only one plate works. Sleeping in the Lapa is an option. Shower and flush toilet available. Women can use the cleaner inside toilet if they ask Jaap nicely.

== Route Description ==

[[Image:Wellington-Topo.gif]]

Route Guide for Wellingtons Dome

By Neil Margetts

'''The Goat Face'''

This is the shorter wall to the left (east) of the dome. It has a few 2-3 pitch routes on it. All route numbers correspond to the route numbers on the accompanying map.

1. ''Where’s Wally'' ** 17 (12D)

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Pitch 1 25m 14 Climb up pillar to the right of the bushy recess.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Continue up to chains.

Pitch 3 30m 16 Climb up and then right to avoid the bulge, continue to the top.

First ascent: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, September 2001

2. ''The Big Red Button'' *** 21 (15D)

Starts just left of INTRUSION, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up to chains under bulge.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Climb over bulge, strenuous, and continue to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, September 2001

3. ''Intrusion'' *** 20 (12D)

This climb starts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up the slab to steeper section below anchors.

Pitch 2 30m 20 This pitch climbs the wide open book on vertical rock to the top.

First ascent: Galeo Saints, Joffrey Hyman, Sep 2001 Bolted by Galeo, Joffrey & Paul Brouard.

Descending the Goat Face

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down on the far left, but this is a long way around. Note: some of the chains at the top have been damaged, lower ones have been placed.

'''The Peanut Gallery'''

This is the large rock outcrop just to the right of the main dome. To ascend, climb up Monkey Gulley just to the left of the main dome. This has two short (3m) scramble sections of grade 14. Then continue around left over some large blocks to the top. From the top one is rewarded with excellent views of the climbers on the main dome with excellent photographic opportunities especially in the early morning.

First ascent: Mr. B A Boon and large family, +/- 1 346 000 BC

'''Main Dome'''

The climbs on the Main Dome start half way up Monkey Gulley opposite the Peanut Gallery and are listed from left to right. The face reaches about 150m in height at places.

3a. ''Finding your Inner Lizard'' 14 (12D)

Start near the top of the gully traversing right under a flake. Climb up the right of the flake to the top.

4. ''Sexy Lady'' ** 16 (15D)

Start in the gulley just before the first scramble move (50m up from the base).

Pitch 1 25m 16 After climbing the first thin moves (crux) continue up to chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 3 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 4 20m 13 Continue up over large block and up to the chains

Pitch 5 20m 14 Continue up slab to the top

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 28 June 2003

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

5. ''Older Slower Wiser'' *** 17 (16D)

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Enjoy the exposure on an easier climb with some interesting slab technique.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb the ramp that tends left from the start then climb the face to the ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the face then the slab to the chains on a small ledge. Not as easy as it looks.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Good face climbing up to the next ledge and chains.

Pitch 4 20m 15 Continue up off the stance to the next ledge and chains. Nice slab pitch.

Pitch 5 20m 13 Climb up then diagonally left to the top of the dome and chains.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2000

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

6. ''Where Falcons Fear'' *** 21 (12D)

This route starts 25m to the left of WHERE EAGLES DARE and joins that route at the last pitch.

Pitch 1 30m 20 Climb up slabs until forced right and up to a large flake with chains above.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Continue up for a few meters and then move up left along a rough slab (crux), continue to the chains.

Pitch 3 30m 19 Climb more or less up the nose above to the chains at the top of pitch 4 of WED.

Pitch 4 40m 17 Climb up pitches 5 and 6 of WED to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, 5 June 2004

7. ''Where Eagles Dare'' **** 19 (16D)

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Move up and right above the pocket (crux), then continue up jugs to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 18 Climb up the thin crack line to the chains.

Pitch 3 20m 17 Climb up and left via some ledges and balance moves to a small but comfortable ledge with chains.

Pitch 4 25m 19 Climb up over a thin bulge (crux 1), then up and left into a recess for a rest. From there move right and up until forced to move left again (crux 2) for 4m to the chains.

Pitch 5 20m 17 From the ledge climb up and 2m right, then move up a short blank section (crux), after which the grade eases, continue up to the chains.

Pitch 6 25m 14 Climb up the slabs above to the top.

First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Gareth Frost, Tim Wilmot, December 2000

Note: Pitches 1, 2 and 5, 6 can be combined.

8. ''Songnando al Sole'' (''Dreaming in the Sun'') *** 21 (18D)

Start 10m to the right of WED at a block.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Step off the block and up thin moves until the grade eases, then up to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Climb up past some big flakes to the chains.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Climb up over some ledges and up some thinner moves to a small stance and chains.

Pitch 4 40m 20 (NB 18D) Climb up rightwards to under the bulge. Move over the bulge leftwards (crux) and continue up (sustained) to the chains.

Pitch 5 45m 21 Climb up leftwards and up a short blank section (crux), and then continue up to the top.

First ascent: Neil Margetts, Gioacehims Emmola, Darryl Margetts. 18 – 19 March 2006 (Also with Gareth Frost on pitch 1)

Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

9. ''Wild Child'' **** 23 (15D) (*NB: A key hold was pulled off the crux of Pitch 3, likely increasing the difficulty by a grade or two)

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND.

Pitch 1 32m 18 Climb up over bulge on thin holds until the grade eases. Continue via a small crack to the chains.

Pitch 2 35m 21 Continue up easy ground until the angle gets steeper. Climb up the nose and right to the chains.

Pitch 3 35m 23 Move up the corner above and reach right to clip the first two bolts. Then traverse and move up diagonally right (crux) until the grade eases. Continue up past an under-cling rail to a point where you can move 4m left to the chains.

Pitch 4 40m 23 Climb up to join BDND and climb up the top 2 pitches of BDND to the top.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 5 June 2005

Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND

10. ''Big Dreamers Never Die'' *** 23 (15D)

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up then leftwards to a tree growing out of the rock and up to a large flake. Climb up to a small ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Traverse left off the stance and follow a crack and then a face to a large ledge above.

Pitch 3 10m 14 Climb up through the scoop to a very large ledge with a tree.

Pitch 4 20m 18 Climb up the ramp on the left of the ledge then up the face to the base to a chimney with a tree. Chimney up and then traverse right to a small ledge with chains.

Pitch 5 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains.

Pitch 6 20m 23 Climb up the ramp on the left until you must continue up on steep rock into a shallow recess. Traverse right (crux) and up into a shallow cubbyhole with chains.

Pitch 7 15m 13 Climb up first to the right and then up to the top.
Variation for pitch 4: Ascend right hand side of the big ledge. (17)
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle, October 2000

11. ''Dream Queen'' **** 21 (16D)

Start as for BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE (BDND)

Pitch 1 43m 19 Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

Pitch 2 25m 18 Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

Pitch 3 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

Pitch 4 30m 19 Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, Guy Pitman 18 September 2003

11a. ''Big Dreamers Never Die/ Dream Queen Combo'' ***** 23 (16D)

This combo route takes the first 2 pitches of Dream Queen and the last 3 pitches of Big Dreamers Never Die. This is an awesome line which includes the best pitches of both climbs.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 28 May 2005

12. ''Compensation Stolen / When The Cats Away'' *** 25 (18D)
Starts approximately 50m right of BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE.

Pitch 1 30m 21 Climb up to the right of a watermark to a cubbyhole with Chains

Pitch 2 30m 22 Continue up over steeper rock to a stance below the large bulge.

Pitch 3 25m 25 Climb up over the bulge along the break to chains on the lip.

Pitch 4 30m 20 Continue up to the top.

First Ascent: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Philippe Gabareaud July 2001 Bolted By: A Hüfner, M Seuring, G van Rensburg

13. ''Where White Owls Fly'' *** 25 (16D)

Pitch 1 22m 22 Start to the right of “When the cat’s Away” and up to chains.

Pitch 2 40m 23 (NB 9D) Continue up to the chains, not for the faint hearted.

Pitch 3 20m 24 Climb up to chains of CS/WTCA

Pitch 4 45m 25 (NB 16D) Continue up CS/ WTCA to the top.

First ascent: Jens Rigter, Sabine Tittel, 17 July 2005

13a. ''Knocking on Dad’s Door'' (''Shield of Fire'') 26 ***** (14D)

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

Pitches 20, 23, 26, 26 and 20. Detail to follow.

FA. June 2009 Joerg and Till

14. ''Younger Fitter Faster'' *** 24 (15D)

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

Pitch 1 30m 22 Start on the ramp below and climb up the steeper face above.

Pitch 2 40m 24 You need to be fit for this one, it is a long pitch.

Pitch 3 30m 22 You get to this pitch and you want to climb it fast because your feet are staring to hurt.

First Ascent: Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner, Marianne Pretorius, Mike Mason and Hunt Cheney, October 2000

14a. ''Raptors'' 24 **** (18D)

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it.

Pitch 1 22 30m Traverse left and diagonally up left to a point one traverses 6m left to a good stance.

Pitch 2 23 40m Traverse 4m left, and up into a crack via a block. Long slings near the block a good idea to prevent drag. Continue up the crack and break right at the top.

Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoiding the climb in winter months is better.

First Ascent: Till and Neil Margetts June 2009

14b. ''Project'' 27/28

Climb up straight from start of Raptors, 2 pitches

15. ''Gem Squash'' * 17 (N)

This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001

16. ''Dome Standard Route'' * 13 (5D)

This line starts at the western most end of the dome at a large tree. Climb up the tree and step onto the face and up to the chains. Continue up from there to the top on reasonably easy ground.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle Oct 2000

Descending the Main Dome

To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, a rap point is available at the back of the dome on the left hand side. This is the side closest to Monkey Gulley. A short rap, 22m, will take you to a path where you can descend down monkey gulley on the right, to the base of the dome. This gulley has two short scramble sections of 3m each at approximately grade 14. Another alternative is to rap down Sexy Lady on two 50m raps or four 25m raps, this lands you neatly just downhill of the scrambles in Monkey Gulley.

'''Sarcophagus'''

If one were to look at the skyline of the Wellington dome complex from the main road about 5km before Jaapies farm, you will see that it resembles a Sarcophagus. What we currently know as the Sarcophagus is in fact the foot of this Sarcophagus. Thus this buttress became known as “The Foot of the Sarcophagus”.
This later became known just as the Sarcophagus.

Sarcophagus South

These climbs are on the road side of the Sarcophagus, from left to right.

17. ''Archimedes Screw'' ** 18 (8D)

This is the left most route and starts to the right of a gully/crack system. Climb up the slab rightwards to the chains.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

18. ''Dancing With Anubis'' ** 17 (8D)

Start just to the right of AS and climb up leftwards to share chains with AS.

18a. ''Bite of Thoth'' 20/21 *** (10D)

Start just to the left of EOO and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2009

19. ''Eye of Osyris'' *** 20 (10D)

This route goes up the pillar to the right of DWA.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

19a. ''Naughty Nefertiti'' *** 18/19 (11D?)

Start this route by stepping right off the block 4m right of EOO. Follow the crack/water groove to a thin exit.

First Ascent: Edwin McLenaghan, Neil Margetts, 12 July 2009

Sarcophagus North

These climbs are on the opposite side of the Sarcophagus facing the main tar road, from left to right.

20. ''Rhamses' Ramrod'' ** 16 (10D)

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts, 2001

21. ''Tutankhamun's Touche'' *** 18 (10D)

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of RR.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb/layback up the crack until the grade eases. Continue up the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 18 Climb up and through the bulge above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

22. ''Cleopatra's Crack'' *** 19 (10D)

Climb up the crack system just to the right of TT starting up the pillar on the left.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up pillar and then the crack over a steep section (crux). Continue up to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

23. ''Pharoah's Phallus'' *** 20 (10D)

This climb goes up the pillar with brown water marks on it, 15m to the right of CC

Pitch 1 25m 20 Climb up the face on small crimps negotiating a balance move crux at 18m.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up the slab above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

Sarcophagus West

These climbs are on the western side of the Sarcophagus above Leopard Rock, from left to right.

24. ''Land of the Long Mambas'' * 15 (8D)

Start the climb up a ramp below a pillar with a crack through it.

Pitch 1 20m 13 Climb up the slab and through the steeper section to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up the break above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

25. ''A Scarab Beetle Ate my Brains'' * 15 (8D)

This climb goes up the easy angled nose with a crack through the pillar above.

Pitch 1 15m 11 Climb up the easy pilar to a ledge with chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the crack above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

Descending the Sarcophagus

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down the south face by the slabs on the left.

== References ==
A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website www.saclimb.co.za

Wellingtons Dome

2009-08-10T19:51:04Z

Edmclen: /* Route Description */

Multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane with many good multi-pitch routes (up to 7P)

== The climbing ==
There are several granite outcrops around the countryside. One of these is called 'Blinkkoppe' on the Gillemberg farm which is currently being developed with permission from the farmer. There is excellent potential for good multi-pitch sport routes on this, and possibly other of the granite outcrops. The climbing is good with mainly edges on long faces, usually slightly on angle. Some of these faces reach 150m in height. The area is very hot so it is advisable to keep the climbing to between 8 am to 11 am, go back to the farmhouse for lunch or climb on south facing climbs and climb again from 2 until late. '''Avoid the main dome between 11am and 2pm except during winter. NB make sure you get a car guard from Jaap, as there has been some petty theft in the past.'''

== Season ==
Mainly Winter, but also Spring & Autumn

== Rock ==
Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle

== Gear ==
Sport Rack: Up to 18 quickdraws & Rope (50m or longer). Some of the climbs have 40m or longer pitches so escape with one rope could be difficult.

== Getting there ==
Take the N1 to Pretoria to Mokopane (the town used to be called Potgietersrus). Drive straight into Mokopane, a half way through the town you will see two garages on each side of the road, turn left directly at these into Nelson Mandela Drive. Drive for about 36km past the concrete bus stop to Jaap’s farm house on the right just after a small shop/stall. Go in, unpack, put the fresh stuff in the fridge, and a car guard. To get to the climbing, drive back about 5 km to where there is a gate in the electric fence surrounding the property (on the south side of the road).On the way to the main dome (where the road ends), you will pass the Sarcophagus area on your right hand side. And the main dome is further on. There is some bouldering near the back and to the left of the Sarcophagus.

== Food and accommodation ==
Please camp in the area provided by the farmer Jaap Möller, which is on the lawn outside the Lapa. The camping has ablutions etc. Camping MUST be arranged beforehand. You can contact the farmer, Jaap, on 072 425 0349 for booking and arranging of camping. There is a fridge and a stove, but only one plate works. Sleeping in the Lapa is an option. Shower and flush toilet available. Women can use the cleaner inside toilet if they ask Jaap nicely.

== Route Description ==

[[Image:Wellington-Topo.gif]]

Route Guide for Wellingtons Dome

By Neil Margetts

'''The Goat Face'''

This is the shorter wall to the left (east) of the dome. It has a few 2-3 pitch routes on it. All route numbers correspond to the route numbers on the accompanying map.

1. ''Where’s Wally'' ** 17 (12D)

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Pitch 1 25m 14 Climb up pillar to the right of the bushy recess.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Continue up to chains.

Pitch 3 30m 16 Climb up and then right to avoid the bulge, continue to the top.

First ascent: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, September 2001

2. ''The Big Red Button'' *** 21 (15D)

Starts just left of INTRUSION, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up to chains under bulge.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Climb over bulge, strenuous, and continue to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, September 2001

3. ''Intrusion'' *** 20 (12D)

This climb tarts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up the slab to steeper section below anchors.

Pitch 2 30m 20 This pitch climbs the wide open book on vertical rock to the top.

First ascent: Galeo Saints, Joffrey Hyman, Sep 2001 Bolted by Galeo, Joffrey & Paul Brouard.

Descending the Goat Face

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down on the far left, but this is a long way around. Note: some of the chains at the top have been damaged, lower ones have been placed.

'''The Peanut Gallery'''

This is the large rock outcrop just to the right of the main dome. To ascend, climb up Monkey Gulley just to the left of the main dome. This has two short (3m) scramble sections of grade 14. Then continue around left over some large blocks to the top. From the top one is rewarded with excellent views of the climbers on the main dome with excellent photographic opportunities especially in the early morning.

First ascent: Mr. B A Boon and large family, +/- 1 346 000 BC

'''Main Dome'''

The climbs on the Main Dome start half way up Monkey Gulley opposite the Peanut Gallery and are listed from left to right. The face reaches about 150m in height at places.

3a. ''Finding your Inner Lizard'' 14 (12D)

Start near the top of the gully traversing right under a flake. Climb up the right of the flake to the top.

4. ''Sexy Lady'' ** 16 (15D)

Start in the gulley just before the first scramble move (50m up from the base).

Pitch 1 25m 16 After climbing the first thin moves (crux) continue up to chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 3 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 4 20m 13 Continue up over large block and up to the chains

Pitch 5 20m 14 Continue up slab to the top

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 28 June 2003

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

5. ''Older Slower Wiser'' *** 17 (16D)

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Enjoy the exposure on an easier climb with some interesting slab technique.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb the ramp that tends left from the start then climb the face to the ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the face then the slab to the chains on a small ledge. Not as easy as it looks.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Good face climbing up to the next ledge and chains.

Pitch 4 20m 15 Continue up off the stance to the next ledge and chains. Nice slab pitch.

Pitch 5 20m 13 Climb up then diagonally left to the top of the dome and chains.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2000

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

6. ''Where Falcons Fear'' *** 21 (12D)

This route starts 25m to the left of WHERE EAGLES DARE and joins that route at the last pitch.

Pitch 1 30m 20 Climb up slabs until forced right and up to a large flake with chains above.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Continue up for a few meters and then move up left along a rough slab (crux), continue to the chains.

Pitch 3 30m 19 Climb more or less up the nose above to the chains at the top of pitch 4 of WED.

Pitch 4 40m 17 Climb up pitches 5 and 6 of WED to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, 5 June 2004

7. ''Where Eagles Dare'' **** 19 (16D)

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Move up and right above the pocket (crux), then continue up jugs to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 18 Climb up the thin crack line to the chains.

Pitch 3 20m 17 Climb up and left via some ledges and balance moves to a small but comfortable ledge with chains.

Pitch 4 25m 19 Climb up over a thin bulge (crux 1), then up and left into a recess for a rest. From there move right and up until forced to move left again (crux 2) for 4m to the chains.

Pitch 5 20m 17 From the ledge climb up and 2m right, then move up a short blank section (crux), after which the grade eases, continue up to the chains.

Pitch 6 25m 14 Climb up the slabs above to the top.

First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Gareth Frost, Tim Wilmot, December 2000

Note: Pitches 1, 2 and 5, 6 can be combined.

8. ''Songnando al Sole'' (''Dreaming in the Sun'') *** 21 (18D)

Start 10m to the right of WED at a block.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Step off the block and up thin moves until the grade eases, then up to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Climb up past some big flakes to the chains.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Climb up over some ledges and up some thinner moves to a small stance and chains.

Pitch 4 40m 20 (NB 18D) Climb up rightwards to under the bulge. Move over the bulge leftwards (crux) and continue up (sustained) to the chains.

Pitch 5 45m 21 Climb up leftwards and up a short blank section (crux), and then continue up to the top.

First ascent: Neil Margetts, Gioacehims Emmola, Darryl Margetts. 18 – 19 March 2006 (Also with Gareth Frost on pitch 1)

Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

9. ''Wild Child'' **** 23 (15D) (*NB: A key hold was pulled off the crux of Pitch 3, likely increasing the difficulty by a grade or two)

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND.

Pitch 1 32m 18 Climb up over bulge on thin holds until the grade eases. Continue via a small crack to the chains.

Pitch 2 35m 21 Continue up easy ground until the angle gets steeper. Climb up the nose and right to the chains.

Pitch 3 35m 23 Move up the corner above and reach right to clip the first two bolts. Then traverse and move up diagonally right (crux) until the grade eases. Continue up past an under-cling rail to a point where you can move 4m left to the chains.

Pitch 4 40m 23 Climb up to join BDND and climb up the top 2 pitches of BDND to the top.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 5 June 2005

Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND

10. ''Big Dreamers Never Die'' *** 23 (15D)

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up then leftwards to a tree growing out of the rock and up to a large flake. Climb up to a small ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Traverse left off the stance and follow a crack and then a face to a large ledge above.

Pitch 3 10m 14 Climb up through the scoop to a very large ledge with a tree.

Pitch 4 20m 18 Climb up the ramp on the left of the ledge then up the face to the base to a chimney with a tree. Chimney up and then traverse right to a small ledge with chains.

Pitch 5 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains.

Pitch 6 20m 23 Climb up the ramp on the left until you must continue up on steep rock into a shallow recess. Traverse right (crux) and up into a shallow cubbyhole with chains.

Pitch 7 15m 13 Climb up first to the right and then up to the top.
Variation for pitch 4: Ascend right hand side of the big ledge. (17)
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle, October 2000

11. ''Dream Queen'' **** 21 (16D)

Start as for BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE (BDND)

Pitch 1 43m 19 Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

Pitch 2 25m 18 Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

Pitch 3 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

Pitch 4 30m 19 Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, Guy Pitman 18 September 2003

11a. ''Big Dreamers Never Die/ Dream Queen Combo'' ***** 23 (16D)

This combo route takes the first 2 pitches of Dream Queen and the last 3 pitches of Big Dreamers Never Die. This is an awesome line which includes the best pitches of both climbs.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 28 May 2005

12. ''Compensation Stolen / When The Cats Away'' *** 25 (18D)
Starts approximately 50m right of BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE.

Pitch 1 30m 21 Climb up to the right of a watermark to a cubbyhole with Chains

Pitch 2 30m 22 Continue up over steeper rock to a stance below the large bulge.

Pitch 3 25m 25 Climb up over the bulge along the break to chains on the lip.

Pitch 4 30m 20 Continue up to the top.

First Ascent: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Philippe Gabareaud July 2001 Bolted By: A Hüfner, M Seuring, G van Rensburg

13. ''Where White Owls Fly'' *** 25 (16D)

Pitch 1 22m 22 Start to the right of “When the cat’s Away” and up to chains.

Pitch 2 40m 23 (NB 9D) Continue up to the chains, not for the faint hearted.

Pitch 3 20m 24 Climb up to chains of CS/WTCA

Pitch 4 45m 25 (NB 16D) Continue up CS/ WTCA to the top.

First ascent: Jens Rigter, Sabine Tittel, 17 July 2005

13a. ''Knocking on Dad’s Door'' (''Shield of Fire'') 26 ***** (14D)

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

Pitches 20, 23, 26, 26 and 20. Detail to follow.

FA. June 2009 Joerg and Till

14. ''Younger Fitter Faster'' *** 24 (15D)

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

Pitch 1 30m 22 Start on the ramp below and climb up the steeper face above.

Pitch 2 40m 24 You need to be fit for this one, it is a long pitch.

Pitch 3 30m 22 You get to this pitch and you want to climb it fast because your feet are staring to hurt.

First Ascent: Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner, Marianne Pretorius, Mike Mason and Hunt Cheney, October 2000

14a. ''Raptors'' 24 **** (18D)

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it.

Pitch 1 22 30m Traverse left and diagonally up left to a point one traverses 6m left to a good stance.

Pitch 2 23 40m Traverse 4m left, and up into a crack via a block. Long slings near the block a good idea to prevent drag. Continue up the crack and break right at the top.

Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoiding the climb in winter months is better.

First Ascent: Till and Neil Margetts June 2009

14b. ''Project'' 27/28

Climb up straight from start of Raptors, 2 pitches

15. ''Gem Squash'' * 17 (N)

This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001

16. ''Dome Standard Route'' * 13 (5D)

This line starts at the western most end of the dome at a large tree. Climb up the tree and step onto the face and up to the chains. Continue up from there to the top on reasonably easy ground.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle Oct 2000

Descending the Main Dome

To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, a rap point is available at the back of the dome on the left hand side. This is the side closest to Monkey Gulley. A short rap, 22m, will take you to a path where you can descend down monkey gulley on the right, to the base of the dome. This gulley has two short scramble sections of 3m each at approximately grade 14. Another alternative is to rap down Sexy Lady on two 50m raps or four 25m raps, this lands you neatly just downhill of the scrambles in Monkey Gulley.

'''Sarcophagus'''

If one were to look at the skyline of the Wellington dome complex from the main road about 5km before Jaapies farm, you will see that it resembles a Sarcophagus. What we currently know as the Sarcophagus is in fact the foot of this Sarcophagus. Thus this buttress became known as “The Foot of the Sarcophagus”.
This later became known just as the Sarcophagus.

Sarcophagus South

These climbs are on the road side of the Sarcophagus, from left to right.

17. ''Archimedes Screw'' ** 18 (8D)

This is the left most route and starts to the right of a gully/crack system. Climb up the slab rightwards to the chains.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

18. ''Dancing With Anubis'' ** 17 (8D)

Start just to the right of AS and climb up leftwards to share chains with AS.

18a. ''Bite of Thoth'' 20 *** (10D)

Start just to the left of EOO and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2009

19. ''Eye of Osyris'' *** 20 (10D)

This route goes up the pillar to the right of DWA.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

19a. ''Naughty Nefertiti'' *** 18/19 (11D?)

Start this route by stepping right off the block 4m right of EOO. Follow the crack/water groove to a thin exit.

First Ascent: Edwin McLenaghan, Neil Margetts, 12 July 2009

Sarcophagus North

These climbs are on the opposite side of the Sarcophagus facing the main tar road, from left to right.

20. ''Rhamses' Ramrod'' ** 16 (10D)

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts, 2001

21. ''Tutankhamun's Touche'' *** 18 (10D)

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of RR.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb/layback up the crack until the grade eases. Continue up the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 18 Climb up and through the bulge above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

22. ''Cleopatra's Crack'' *** 19 (10D)

Climb up the crack system just to the right of TT starting up the pillar on the left.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up pillar and then the crack over a steep section (crux). Continue up to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

23. ''Pharoah's Phallus'' *** 20 (10D)

This climb goes up the pillar with brown water marks on it, 15m to the right of CC

Pitch 1 25m 20 Climb up the face on small crimps negotiating a balance move crux at 18m.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up the slab above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

Sarcophagus West

These climbs are on the western side of the Sarcophagus above Leopard Rock, from left to right.

24. ''Land of the Long Mambas'' * 15 (8D)

Start the climb up a ramp below a pillar with a crack through it.

Pitch 1 20m 13 Climb up the slab and through the steeper section to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up the break above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

25. ''A Scarab Beetle Ate my Brains'' * 15 (8D)

This climb goes up the easy angled nose with a crack through the pillar above.

Pitch 1 15m 11 Climb up the easy pilar to a ledge with chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the crack above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

Descending the Sarcophagus

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down the south face by the slabs on the left.

== References ==
A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website www.saclimb.co.za

Wellingtons Dome

2009-08-10T19:49:36Z

Edmclen: /* Route Description */

Multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane with many good multi-pitch routes (up to 7P)

== The climbing ==
There are several granite outcrops around the countryside. One of these is called 'Blinkkoppe' on the Gillemberg farm which is currently being developed with permission from the farmer. There is excellent potential for good multi-pitch sport routes on this, and possibly other of the granite outcrops. The climbing is good with mainly edges on long faces, usually slightly on angle. Some of these faces reach 150m in height. The area is very hot so it is advisable to keep the climbing to between 8 am to 11 am, go back to the farmhouse for lunch or climb on south facing climbs and climb again from 2 until late. '''Avoid the main dome between 11am and 2pm except during winter. NB make sure you get a car guard from Jaap, as there has been some petty theft in the past.'''

== Season ==
Mainly Winter, but also Spring & Autumn

== Rock ==
Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle

== Gear ==
Sport Rack: Up to 18 quickdraws & Rope (50m or longer). Some of the climbs have 40m or longer pitches so escape with one rope could be difficult.

== Getting there ==
Take the N1 to Pretoria to Mokopane (the town used to be called Potgietersrus). Drive straight into Mokopane, a half way through the town you will see two garages on each side of the road, turn left directly at these into Nelson Mandela Drive. Drive for about 36km past the concrete bus stop to Jaap’s farm house on the right just after a small shop/stall. Go in, unpack, put the fresh stuff in the fridge, and a car guard. To get to the climbing, drive back about 5 km to where there is a gate in the electric fence surrounding the property (on the south side of the road).On the way to the main dome (where the road ends), you will pass the Sarcophagus area on your right hand side. And the main dome is further on. There is some bouldering near the back and to the left of the Sarcophagus.

== Food and accommodation ==
Please camp in the area provided by the farmer Jaap Möller, which is on the lawn outside the Lapa. The camping has ablutions etc. Camping MUST be arranged beforehand. You can contact the farmer, Jaap, on 072 425 0349 for booking and arranging of camping. There is a fridge and a stove, but only one plate works. Sleeping in the Lapa is an option. Shower and flush toilet available. Women can use the cleaner inside toilet if they ask Jaap nicely.

== Route Description ==

[[Image:Wellington-Topo.gif]]

Route Guide for Wellingtons Dome

By Neil Margetts

'''The Goat Face'''

This is the shorter wall to the left (east) of the dome. It has a few 2-3 pitch routes on it. All route numbers correspond to the route numbers on the accompanying map.

1. ''Where’s Wally'' ** 17 (12D)

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Pitch 1 25m 14 Climb up pillar to the right of the bushy recess.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Continue up to chains.

Pitch 3 30m 16 Climb up and then right to avoid the bulge, continue to the top.

First ascent: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, September 2001

2. ''The Big Red Button'' *** 21 (15D)

Starts just left of INTRUSION, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up to chains under bulge.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Climb over bulge, strenuous, and continue to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, September 2001

3. ''Intrusion'' *** 20 (12D)

This climb tarts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up the slab to steeper section below anchors.

Pitch 2 30m 20 This pitch climbs the wide open book on vertical rock to the top.

First ascent: Galeo Saints, Joffrey Hyman, Sep 2001 Bolted by Galeo, Joffrey & Paul Brouard.

Descending the Goat Face

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down on the far left, but this is a long way around. Note: some of the chains at the top have been damaged, lower ones have been placed.

'''The Peanut Gallery'''

This is the large rock outcrop just to the right of the main dome. To ascend, climb up Monkey Gulley just to the left of the main dome. This has two short (3m) scramble sections of grade 14. Then continue around left over some large blocks to the top. From the top one is rewarded with excellent views of the climbers on the main dome with excellent photographic opportunities especially in the early morning.

First ascent: Mr. B A Boon and large family, +/- 1 346 000 BC

'''Main Dome'''

The climbs on the Main Dome start half way up Monkey Gulley opposite the Peanut Gallery and are listed from left to right. The face reaches about 150m in height at places.

3a. ''Finding your Inner Lizard'' 14 (12D)

Start near the top of the gully traversing right under a flake. Climb up the right of the flake to the top.

4. ''Sexy Lady'' ** 16 (15D)

Start in the gulley just before the first scramble move (50m up from the base).

Pitch 1 25m 16 After climbing the first thin moves (crux) continue up to chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 3 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 4 20m 13 Continue up over large block and up to the chains

Pitch 5 20m 14 Continue up slab to the top

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 28 June 2003

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

5. ''Older Slower Wiser'' *** 17 (16D)

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Enjoy the exposure on an easier climb with some interesting slab technique.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb the ramp that tends left from the start then climb the face to the ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the face then the slab to the chains on a small ledge. Not as easy as it looks.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Good face climbing up to the next ledge and chains.

Pitch 4 20m 15 Continue up off the stance to the next ledge and chains. Nice slab pitch.

Pitch 5 20m 13 Climb up then diagonally left to the top of the dome and chains.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2000

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

6. ''Where Falcons Fear'' *** 21 (12D)

This route starts 25m to the left of WHERE EAGLES DARE and joins that route at the last pitch.

Pitch 1 30m 20 Climb up slabs until forced right and up to a large flake with chains above.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Continue up for a few meters and then move up left along a rough slab (crux), continue to the chains.

Pitch 3 30m 19 Climb more or less up the nose above to the chains at the top of pitch 4 of WED.

Pitch 4 40m 17 Climb up pitches 5 and 6 of WED to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, 5 June 2004

7. ''Where Eagles Dare'' **** 19 (16D)

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Move up and right above the pocket (crux), then continue up jugs to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 18 Climb up the thin crack line to the chains.

Pitch 3 20m 17 Climb up and left via some ledges and balance moves to a small but comfortable ledge with chains.

Pitch 4 25m 19 Climb up over a thin bulge (crux 1), then up and left into a recess for a rest. From there move right and up until forced to move left again (crux 2) for 4m to the chains.

Pitch 5 20m 17 From the ledge climb up and 2m right, then move up a short blank section (crux), after which the grade eases, continue up to the chains.

Pitch 6 25m 14 Climb up the slabs above to the top.

First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Gareth Frost, Tim Wilmot, December 2000

Note: Pitches 1, 2 and 5, 6 can be combined.

8. ''Songnando al Sole'' (''Dreaming in the Sun'') *** 21 (18D)

Start 10m to the right of WED at a block.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Step off the block and up thin moves until the grade eases, then up to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Climb up past some big flakes to the chains.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Climb up over some ledges and up some thinner moves to a small stance and chains.

Pitch 4 40m 20 (NB 18D) Climb up rightwards to under the bulge. Move over the bulge leftwards (crux) and continue up (sustained) to the chains.

Pitch 5 45m 21 Climb up leftwards and up a short blank section (crux), and then continue up to the top.

First ascent: Neil Margetts, Gioacehims Emmola, Darryl Margetts. 18 – 19 March 2006 (Also with Gareth Frost on pitch 1)

Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

9. ''Wild Child'' **** 23 (15D) (*NB: A key hold was pulled off the crux of Pitch 3, likely increasing the difficulty by a grade or two)

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND.

Pitch 1 32m 18 Climb up over bulge on thin holds until the grade eases. Continue via a small crack to the chains.

Pitch 2 35m 21 Continue up easy ground until the angle gets steeper. Climb up the nose and right to the chains.

Pitch 3 35m 23 Move up the corner above and reach right to clip the first two bolts. Then traverse and move up diagonally right (crux) until the grade eases. Continue up past an under-cling rail to a point where you can move 4m left to the chains.

Pitch 4 40m 23 Climb up to join BDND and climb up the top 2 pitches of BDND to the top.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 5 June 2005

Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND

10. ''Big Dreamers Never Die'' *** 23 (15D)

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up then leftwards to a tree growing out of the rock and up to a large flake. Climb up to a small ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Traverse left off the stance and follow a crack and then a face to a large ledge above.

Pitch 3 10m 14 Climb up through the scoop to a very large ledge with a tree.

Pitch 4 20m 18 Climb up the ramp on the left of the ledge then up the face to the base to a chimney with a tree. Chimney up and then traverse right to a small ledge with chains.

Pitch 5 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains.

Pitch 6 20m 23 Climb up the ramp on the left until you must continue up on steep rock into a shallow recess. Traverse right (crux) and up into a shallow cubbyhole with chains.

Pitch 7 15m 13 Climb up first to the right and then up to the top.
Variation for pitch 4: Ascend right hand side of the big ledge. (17)
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle, October 2000

11. ''Dream Queen'' **** 21 (16D)

Start as for BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE (BDND)

Pitch 1 43m 19 Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

Pitch 2 25m 18 Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

Pitch 3 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

Pitch 4 30m 19 Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, Guy Pitman 18 September 2003

11a. ''Big Dreamers Never Die/ Dream Queen Combo'' ***** 23 (16D)

This combo route takes the first 2 pitches of Dream Queen and the last 3 pitches of Big Dreamers Never Die. This is an awesome line which includes the best pitches of both climbs.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 28 May 2005

12. ''Compensation Stolen / When The Cats Away'' *** 25 (18D)
Starts approximately 50m right of BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE.

Pitch 1 30m 21 Climb up to the right of a watermark to a cubbyhole with Chains

Pitch 2 30m 22 Continue up over steeper rock to a stance below the large bulge.

Pitch 3 25m 25 Climb up over the bulge along the break to chains on the lip.

Pitch 4 30m 20 Continue up to the top.

First Ascent: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Philippe Gabareaud July 2001 Bolted By: A Hüfner, M Seuring, G van Rensburg

13. ''Where White Owls Fly'' *** 25 (16D)

Pitch 1 22m 22 Start to the right of “When the cat’s Away” and up to chains.

Pitch 2 40m 23 (NB 9D) Continue up to the chains, not for the faint hearted.

Pitch 3 20m 24 Climb up to chains of CS/WTCA

Pitch 4 45m 25 (NB 16D) Continue up CS/ WTCA to the top.

First ascent: Jens Rigter, Sabine Tittel, 17 July 2005

13a. ''Knocking on Dad’s Door'' (''Shield of Fire'') 26 ***** (14D)

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

Pitches 20, 23, 26, 26 and 20. Detail to follow.

FA. June 2009 Joerg and Till

14. ''Younger Fitter Faster'' *** 24 (15D)

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

Pitch 1 30m 22 Start on the ramp below and climb up the steeper face above.

Pitch 2 40m 24 You need to be fit for this one, it is a long pitch.

Pitch 3 30m 22 You get to this pitch and you want to climb it fast because your feet are staring to hurt.

First Ascent: Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner, Marianne Pretorius, Mike Mason and Hunt Cheney, October 2000

14a. ''Raptors'' 24 **** (18D)

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it.

Pitch 1 22 30m Traverse left and diagonally up left to a point one traverses 6m left to a good stance.

Pitch 2 23 40m Traverse 4m left, and up into a crack via a block. Long slings near the block a good idea to prevent drag. Continue up the crack and break right at the top.

Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoiding the climb in winter months is better.

First Ascent: Till and Neil Margetts June 2009

14b. ''Project'' 27/28

Climb up straight from start of Raptors, 2 pitches

15. ''Gem Squash'' * 17 (N)

This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.

First Ascent: Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001

16. ''Dome Standard Route'' * 13 (5D)

This line starts at the western most end of the dome at a large tree. Climb up the tree and step onto the face and up to the chains. Continue up from there to the top on reasonably easy ground.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle Oct 2000

Descending the Main Dome

To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, a rap point is available at the back of the dome on the left hand side. This is the side closest to Monkey Gulley. A short rap, 22m, will take you to a path where you can descend down monkey gulley on the right, to the base of the dome. This gulley has two short scramble sections of 3m each at approximately grade 14. Another alternative is to rap down Sexy Lady on two 50m raps or four 25m raps, this lands you neatly just downhill of the scrambles in Monkey Gulley.

'''Sarcophagus'''

If one were to look at the skyline of the Wellington dome complex from the main road about 5km before Jaapies farm, you will see that it resembles a Sarcophagus. What we currently know as the Sarcophagus is in fact the foot of this Sarcophagus. Thus this buttress became known as “The Foot of the Sarcophagus”.
This later became known just as the Sarcophagus.

Sarcophagus South

These climbs are on the road side of the Sarcophagus, from left to right.

17. ''Archimedes Screw'' ** 18 (8D)

This is the left most route and starts to the right of a gully/crack system. Climb up the slab rightwards to the chains.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

18. ''Dancing With Anubis'' ** 17 (8D)

Start just to the right of AS and climb up leftwards to share chains with AS.

18a. ''Bite of Thoth'' 20 *** (10D)

Start just to the left of EOO and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2009

19. ''Eye of Osyris'' *** 20 (10D)

This route goes up the pillar to the right of DWA.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

19a. ''Naughty Nefertiti'' *** 18/19 (11D?)

Start this route by stepping right off the block 4m right of EOO. Follow the crack/water groove to a thin exit.

First Ascent: Edwin McLenaghan, Neil Margetts, 12 July 2009

Sarcophagus North

These climbs are on the opposite side of the Sarcophagus facing the main tar road, from left to right.

20. ''Rhamses' Ramrod'' ** 16 (10D)

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts, 2001

21. ''Tutankhamun's Touche'' *** 18 (10D)

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of RR.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb/layback up the crack until the grade eases. Continue up the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 18 Climb up and through the bulge above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

22. ''Cleopatra's Crack'' *** 19 (10D)

Climb up the crack system just to the right of TT starting up the pillar on the left.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up pillar and then the crack over a steep section (crux). Continue up to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

23. ''Pharoah's Phallus'' *** 20 (10D)

This climb goes up the pillar with brown water marks on it, 15m to the right of CC

Pitch 1 25m 20 Climb up the face on small crimps negotiating a balance move crux at 18m.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up the slab above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

Sarcophagus West

These climbs are on the western side of the Sarcophagus above Leopard Rock, from left to right.

24. ''Land of the Long Mambas'' * 15 (8D)

Start the climb up a ramp below a pillar with a crack through it.

Pitch 1 20m 13 Climb up the slab and through the steeper section to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up the break above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

25. ''A Scarab Beetle Ate my Brains'' * 15 (8D)

This climb goes up the easy angled nose with a crack through the pillar above.

Pitch 1 15m 11 Climb up the easy pilar to a ledge with chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the crack above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

Descending the Sarcophagus

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down the south face by the slabs on the left.

== References ==
A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website www.saclimb.co.za

Wellingtons Dome

2009-08-10T19:29:03Z

Edmclen:

Multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane with many good multi-pitch routes (up to 7P)

== The climbing ==
There are several granite outcrops around the countryside. One of these is called 'Blinkkoppe' on the Gillemberg farm which is currently being developed with permission from the farmer. There is excellent potential for good multi-pitch sport routes on this, and possibly other of the granite outcrops. The climbing is good with mainly edges on long faces, usually slightly on angle. Some of these faces reach 150m in height. The area is very hot so it is advisable to keep the climbing to between 8 am to 11 am, go back to the farmhouse for lunch or climb on south facing climbs and climb again from 2 until late. '''Avoid the main dome between 11am and 2pm except during winter. NB make sure you get a car guard from Jaap, as there has been some petty theft in the past.'''

== Season ==
Mainly Winter, but also Spring & Autumn

== Rock ==
Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle

== Gear ==
Sport Rack: Up to 18 quickdraws & Rope (50m or longer). Some of the climbs have 40m or longer pitches so escape with one rope could be difficult.

== Getting there ==
Take the N1 to Pretoria to Mokopane (the town used to be called Potgietersrus). Drive straight into Mokopane, a half way through the town you will see two garages on each side of the road, turn left directly at these into Nelson Mandela Drive. Drive for about 36km past the concrete bus stop to Jaap’s farm house on the right just after a small shop/stall. Go in, unpack, put the fresh stuff in the fridge, and a car guard. To get to the climbing, drive back about 5 km to where there is a gate in the electric fence surrounding the property (on the south side of the road).On the way to the main dome (where the road ends), you will pass the Sarcophagus area on your right hand side. And the main dome is further on. There is some bouldering near the back and to the left of the Sarcophagus.

== Food and accommodation ==
Please camp in the area provided by the farmer Jaap Möller, which is on the lawn outside the Lapa. The camping has ablutions etc. Camping MUST be arranged beforehand. You can contact the farmer, Jaap, on 072 425 0349 for booking and arranging of camping. There is a fridge and a stove, but only one plate works. Sleeping in the Lapa is an option. Shower and flush toilet available. Women can use the cleaner inside toilet if they ask Jaap nicely.

== Route Description ==

[[Image:Wellington-Topo.gif]]

Route Guide for Wellingtons Dome

By Neil Margetts

'''The Goat Face'''

This is the shorter wall to the left (east) of the dome. It has a few 2-3 pitch routes on it. All route numbers correspond to the route numbers on the accompanying map.

1. ''Where’s Wally'' ** 17 (12D)
This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.
Pitch 1 25m 14 Climb up pillar to the right of the bushy recess
Pitch 2 25m 17 Continue up to chains
Pitch 3 30m 16 Climb up and then right to avoid the bulge, continue to the top.
First ascent: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, September 2001

2. ''The Big Red Button'' *** 21 (15D)
Starts just left of INTRUSION, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.
Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up to chains under bulge.
Pitch 2 30m 21 Climb over bulge, strenuous, and continue to the top.
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, September 2001

3. ''Intrusion'' *** 20 (12D)
This climb tarts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.
Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up the slab to steeper section below anchors.
Pitch 2 30m 20 This pitch climbs the wide open book on vertical rock to the top.
First ascent: Galeo Saints, Joffrey Hyman, Sep 2001 Bolted by Galeo, Joffrey & Paul Brouard.

Descending the Goat Face
To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down on the far left, but this is a long way around. Note: some of the chains at the top have been damaged, lower ones have been placed.

The Peanut Gallery
This is the large rock outcrop just to the right of the main dome. To ascend, climb up Monkey Gulley just to the left of the main dome. This has two short (3m) scramble sections of grade 14. Then continue around left over some large blocks to the top. From the top one is rewarded with excellent views of the climbers on the main dome with excellent photographic opportunities especially in the early morning.
First ascent: Mr. B A Boon and large family, +/- 1 346 000 BC

'''Main Dome'''

The climbs on the Main Dome start half way up Monkey Gulley opposite the Peanut Gallery and are listed from left to right. The face reaches about 150m in height at places.
3a. Finding your Inner Lizard 14 (12D)
Start near the top of the gully traversing right under a flake. Climb up the right of the flake to the top.

4. ''Sexy Lady'' ** 16 (15D)
Start in the gulley just before the first scramble move (50m up from the base).
Pitch 1 25m 16 After climbing the first thin moves (crux) continue up to chains.
Pitch 2 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains
Pitch 3 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains
Pitch 4 20m 13 Continue up over large block and up to the chains
Pitch 5 20m 14 Continue up slab to the top
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 28 June 2003
Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

5. ''Older Slower Wiser'' *** 17 (16D)
Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Enjoy the exposure on an easier climb with some interesting slab technique.
Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb the ramp that tends left from the start then climb the face to the ledge and chains.
Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the face then the slab to the chains on a small ledge. Not as easy as it looks.
Pitch 3 25m 16 Good face climbing up to the next ledge and chains.
Pitch 4 20m 15 Continue up off the stance to the next ledge and chains. Nice slab pitch.
Pitch 5 20m 13 Climb up then diagonally left to the top of the dome and chains.
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2000
Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

6. ''Where Falcons Fear'' *** 21 (12D)
This route starts 25m to the left of WHERE EAGLES DARE and joins that route at the last pitch.
Pitch 1 30m 20 Climb up slabs until forced right and up to a large flake with chains above.
Pitch 2 30m 21 Continue up for a few meters and then move up left along a rough slab (crux), continue to the chains.
Pitch 3 30m 19 Climb more or less up the nose above to the chains at the top of pitch 4 of WED.
Pitch 4 40m 17 Climb up pitches 5 and 6 of WED to the top.
First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, 5 June 2004

7. ''Where Eagles Dare'' **** 19 (16D)
This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête.
Pitch 1 25m 16 Move up and right above the pocket (crux), then continue up jugs to the chains.
Pitch 2 20m 18 Climb up the thin crack line to the chains.
Pitch 3 20m 17 Climb up and left via some ledges and balance moves to a small but comfortable ledge with chains.
Pitch 4 25m 19 Climb up over a thin bulge (crux 1), then up and left into a recess for a rest. From there move right and up until forced to move left again (crux 2) for 4m to the chains.
Pitch 5 20m 17 From the ledge climb up and 2m right, then move up a short blank section (crux), after which the grade eases, continue up to the chains.
Pitch 6 25m 14 Climb up the slabs above to the top.
First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Gareth Frost, Tim Wilmot, December 2000
Note: Pitches 1, 2 and 5, 6 can be combined.

8. ''Songnando al Sole'' (''Dreaming in the Sun'') *** 21 (18D)
Start 10m to the right of WED at a block.
Pitch 1 25m 17 Step off the block and up thin moves until the grade eases, then up to the chains.
Pitch 2 20m 15 Climb up past some big flakes to the chains.
Pitch 3 25m 16 Climb up over some ledges and up some thinner moves to a small stance and chains.
Pitch 4 40m 20 (NB 18D) Climb up rightwards to under the bulge. Move over the bulge leftwards (crux) and continue up (sustained) to the chains.
Pitch 5 45m 21 Climb up leftwards and up a short blank section (crux), and then continue up to the top.
First ascent: Neil Margetts, Gioacehims Emmola, Darryl Margetts. 18 – 19 March 2006 (Also with Gareth Frost on pitch 1)
Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

9. ''Wild Child'' **** 23 (15D) (*NB: A key hold was pulled off the crux of Pitch 3, likely increasing the difficulty by a grade or two)
Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND.
Pitch 1 32m 18 Climb up over bulge on thin holds until the grade eases. Continue via a small crack to the chains.
Pitch 2 35m 21 Continue up easy ground until the angle gets steeper. Climb up the nose and right to the chains.
Pitch 3 35m 23 Move up the corner above and reach right to clip the first two bolts. Then traverse and move up diagonally right (crux) until the grade eases. Continue up past an under-cling rail to a point where you can move 4m left to the chains.
Pitch 4 40m 23 Climb up to join BDND and climb up the top 2 pitches of BDND to the top.
First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 5 June 2005
Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND

10. ''Big Dreamers Never Die'' *** 23 (15D)
This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.
Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up then leftwards to a tree growing out of the rock and up to a large flake. Climb up to a small ledge and chains.
Pitch 2 25m 17 Traverse left off the stance and follow a crack and then a face to a large ledge above.
Pitch 3 10m 14 Climb up through the scoop to a very large ledge with a tree.
Pitch 4 20m 18 Climb up the ramp on the left of the ledge then up the face to the base to a chimney with a tree. Chimney up and then traverse right to a small ledge with chains.
Pitch 5 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains.
Pitch 6 20m 23 Climb up the ramp on the left until you must continue up on steep rock into a shallow recess. Traverse right (crux) and up into a shallow cubbyhole with chains.
Pitch 7 15m 13 Climb up first to the right and then up to the top.
Variation for pitch 4: Ascend right hand side of the big ledge. (17)
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle, October 2000

11. ''Dream Queen'' **** 21 (16D)
Start as for BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE (BDND)
Pitch 1 43m 19 Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.
Pitch 2 25m 18 Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.
Pitch 3 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND
Pitch 4 30m 19 Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.
First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, Guy Pitman 18 September 2003

11a. ''Big Dreamers Never Die/ Dream Queen Combo'' ***** 23 (16D)
This combo route takes the first 2 pitches of Dream Queen and the last 3 pitches of Big Dreamers Never Die. This is an awesome line which includes the best pitches of both climbs.
First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 28 May 2005

12. ''Compensation Stolen / When The Cats Away'' *** 25 (18D)
Starts approximately 50m right of BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE.
Pitch 1 30m 21 Climb up to the right of a watermark to a cubbyhole with Chains
Pitch 2 30m 22 Continue up over steeper rock to a stance below the large bulge.
Pitch 3 25m 25 Climb up over the bulge along the break to chains on the lip.
Pitch 4 30m 20 Continue up to the top.
First Ascent: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Philippe Gabareaud July 2001 Bolted By: A Hüfner, M Seuring, G van Rensburg

13. ''Where White Owls Fly'' *** 25 (16D)
Pitch 1 22m 22 Start to the right of “When the cat’s Away” and up to chains.
Pitch2 40m 23 (NB 9D) Continue up to the chains, not for the faint hearted.
Pitch3 20m 24 Climb up to chains of CS/WTCA
Pitch4 45m 25 (NB 16D) Continue up CS/ WTCA to the top.
First ascent: Jens Rigter, Sabine Tittel, 17 July 2005

13a. ''Knocking on Dad’s Door'' (Shield of Fire) 26 ***** (14D)
Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.
Pitches 20, 23, 26, 26 and 20. Detail to follow.
FA. June 2009 Joerg and Till

14. ''Younger Fitter Faster'' *** 24 (15D)
This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.
Pitch 1 30m 22 Start on the ramp below and climb up the steeper face above.
Pitch 2 40m 24 You need to be fit for this one, it is a long pitch.
Pitch 3 30m 22 You get to this pitch and you want to climb it fast because your feet are staring to hurt.
First Ascent: Mark Seuring, Alard Hüfner, Marianne Pretorius, Mike Mason and Hunt Cheney, October 2000

14a. ''Raptors'' 24 **** (18D)
Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it.
Pitch 1 22 30m
Traverse left and diagonally up left to a point one traverses 6m left to a good stance.
Pitch 2 23 40m
Traverse 4m left, and up into a crack via a block. Long slings near the block a good idea to prevent drag. Continue up the crack and break right at the top.
Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoiding the climb in winter months is better.
First Ascent: Till and Neil Margetts June 2009

14b. ''Project'' 27/28
Climb up straight from start of Raptors, 2 pitches

15. ''Gem Squash'' * 17 (N)
This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring, Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2001

16. ''Dome Standard Route'' * 13 (5D)
This line starts at the western most end of the dome at a large tree. Climb up the tree and step onto the face and up to the chains. Continue up from there to the top on reasonably easy ground.
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle Oct 2000

Descending the Main Dome
To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, a rap point is available at the back of the dome on the left hand side. This is the side closest to Monkey Gulley. A short rap, 22m, will take you to a path where you can descend down monkey gulley on the right, to the base of the dome. This gulley has two short scramble sections of 3m each at approximately grade 14. Another alternative is to rap down Sexy Lady on two 50m raps or four 25m raps, this lands you neatly just downhill of the scrambles in Monkey Gulley.

'''Sarcophagus'''

If one were to look at the skyline of the Wellington dome complex from the main road about 5km before Jaapies farm, you will see that it resembles a Sarcophagus. What we currently know as the Sarcophagus is in fact the foot of this Sarcophagus. Thus this buttress became known as “The Foot of the Sarcophagus”.
This later became known just as the Sarcophagus.

Sarcophagus South
These climbs are on the road side of the Sarcophagus, from left to right.

17. ''Archimedes Screw'' ** 18 (8D)
This is the left most route and starts to the right of a gully/crack system. Climb up the slab rightwards to the chains.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

18. ''Dancing With Anubis'' ** 17 (8D)
Start just to the right of AS and climb up leftwards to share chains with AS.

18a. ''Bite of Thoth'' 20 *** (10D)
Start just to the left of EOO and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.
First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2009

19. ''Eye of Osyris'' *** 20 (10D)
This route goes up the pillar to the right of DWA.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

19a. ''Naughty Nefertiti'' *** 18/19 (11D?)
Start this route by stepping right off the block 4m right of EOO. Follow the crack/water groove to a thin exit.
First Ascent: Edwin McLenaghan, Neil Margetts, 12 July 2009

Sarcophagus North
These climbs are on the opposite side of the Sarcophagus facing the main tar road, from left to right.

20. ''Rhamses' Ramrod'' ** 16 (10D)
This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree.
Pitch1 25m 16 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.
Pitch2 15m 15 Climb up to the top.
First Ascent: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts, 2001

21. ''Tutankhamun's Touche'' *** 18 (10D)
This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of RR.
Pitch1 25m 17 Climb/layback up the crack until the grade eases. Continue up the chains.
Pitch2 15m 18 Climb up and through the bulge above to the top.
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

22. ''Cleopatra's Crack'' *** 19 (10D)
Climb up the crack system just to the right of TT starting up the pillar on the left.
Pitch1 25m 19 Climb up pillar and then the crack over a steep section (crux). Continue up to the chains.
Pitch2 15m 16 Climb up to the top.
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

23. ''Pharoah's Phallus'' *** 20 (10D)
This climb goes up the pillar with brown water marks on it, 15m to the right of CC
Pitch1 25m 20 Climb up the face on small crimps negotiating a balance move crux at 18m.
Pitch2 15m 16 Climb up the slab above to the top.
First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

Sarcophagus West
These climbs are on the western side of the Sarcophagus above Leopard Rock, from left to right.

24. ''Land of the Long Mambas'' * 15 (8D)
Start the climb up a ramp below a pillar with a crack through it.
Pitch 1 20m 13 Climb up the slab and through the steeper section to the chains.
Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up the break above to the top.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

25. ''A Scarab Beetle Ate my Brains'' * 15 (8D)
This climb goes up the easy angled nose with a crack through the pillar above.
Pitch 1 15m 11 Climb up the easy pilar to a ledge with chains.
Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the crack above to the top.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

Descending the Sarcophagus
To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down the south face by the slabs on the left.

== References ==
A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website www.saclimb.co.za