Chosspile

2013-02-22T08:51:03Z

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Bad Kloof

2013-02-16T10:35:25Z

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=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

=Fees, Permits, Etc=
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
</display_points>

= Crags in Bad Kloof =

Possible that some lines may be swopped as non local climbers did this page. If mistakes are found, contact admin, request permission to edit and fix it please.

== The Penthouse ==

[[File:Waterworld_3.jpg]]
As seen from upriver looking downriver.

*'''The Penthouse Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|<Project>
|
|
|
|BB. C Martinengo.
|
|-
|2.
|Pet of the Month
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
|
|-
|3.
|Groping in the Dark
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== Waterworld ==

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

*'''Waterworld History'''
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

[[File:Waterworld_4.jpg]]

*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
|19/6a/6a+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|2.
|Arendsig
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|*****
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|3.
|Walk On By
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|4.
|Some Would Say
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
|
|-
|5.
|Simply Irresistable
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
|(Branches left)
|-
|6.
|The Singularity
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
|(veers right)
|-
|7.
|Firestarter!
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|8.
|My Route Down By The River
|31/8a+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|9.
|Chongalolo
|Project
|
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
|
|-
|10.
|Twist And Crawl
|28/7c
|12 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
|
|-
|11.
|The Mission
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
|-
|12.
|Sidewinder
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|13.
|Creepy Crawly
|20/6a+
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|}

== Peanut Gallery ==

[[File:Peanut_b.JPG]]

*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Good Day for Basketball
|22/6c
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|Finding Ningo
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Duende
|32/8b
|
|
|FA. Matt Bush.
|
|}

== Lion Said ==

*'''Lion Said Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Short Cut
|21/6b+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|2.
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
|23/6c+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Come Short
|25/7a+
|3 Bolts
|
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hello Aloe
|15/ 5b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Devil Speak
|21/6b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
|
|}

== Sloth Crag ==
*'''Sloth Crag Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Sunshine Reggae
|15/5b
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
|-
|2.
|One For The Money
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Rattle and Hum
|24/7a
|5 bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Beautiful Day
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2002
|
|-
|5.
|Sloth
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996
|
|-
|6.
|If I Go It will Be Double
|24/7a
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
|-
|7.
|Throw The Chicken
|9/4
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|8.
|Mediocre Youth
|21/6b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Smigelskis
|
|-
|9.
|Two For The Show
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002
|
|-
|10.
|Vision Thing
|23/6c+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2003
|
|}

== Supertubes ==

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

[[File:Supertubes1.JPG]]

*'''Supertubes Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
|21/6b+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|The Dumper
|15/5b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Beach Break
|19/6a+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Whoa She Poopie
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
|
|-
|5.
|Point Break
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Rad and Bad
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
|-
|7.
|Surf and Turf
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
| <add FA>
|
|-
|8.
|Leap Tide
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|Shares same chains as Thruster
|-
|9.
|Thruster
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
|
|-
|10.
|Triple Stinger
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
|
|-
|11.
|J-Bay
|28/7c
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|Wipe-Out
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
|-
|13.
|Hypoxia
|29/7c+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
|
|-
|14.
|First Wave
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
|
|-
|15.
| <unknown>
| <add details>
|
|
|
|}

<gallery>


File:Stu leaptide.jpg


</gallery>

== Pipeline ==

*'''Pipeline Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|3.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== South Park ==

*'''South Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
|7a/25
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|Who Killed Kenny?
|7b+/27
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
|
|}

== The Palace ==
*'''The Palace Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|-
|1.
|Bad Cop, No Donut
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
|-
|2.
|Elegantly Wasted
|26/7b
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
|
|-
|3.
|S''1''0''2''
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Icarus
|23/6c+
|
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|5.
|Lexi's Route
|25/7a+
|7 Bolts
|
| <unknown>
|
|-
|6.
|Cyberpunk
|25/7a+
|9 Bolts
|*****
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|7.
|MoonaBoos
|27/7b+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
|
|-
|8.
|Shagadelic
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2000
|
|-
|9.
|Burning Chrome
|28/7c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|10.
|Judge Dredd
|29/7c+
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|11.
|Strange Days
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|About Time
|27/7b+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|13.
|The Activist
|30/8a
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|14.
|The Neuromancer
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|15.
|Mad Max
|21/6b+
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|-
|16.
|Psycho Ranger
|20/6b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|}

== The Swamp ==

*'''The Swamp Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Gruff
|7b/26
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Route Do Me
|7b+/27
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
|
|-
|3.
|Gluttony
|7c+/29
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
|
|-
|4.
|Where Eagles Dare
|5c/16
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|5.
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
|5a/13
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|6.
|Disprin
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
|}

== Playground ==

*'''Playground Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Jungle Gym Junkie
|5c/18
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
|
|-
|2.
|Jungle Jim
|6a/19
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|3.
|See Saw
|4/15
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|4.
|The Jester
|6c+/24
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
|
|-
|5.
|Party-on Wayne
|7a/25
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|Jus Klup Ut
|7b+/27
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|7.
|Powerplay
|7a+/25
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. E February. 1995.
|
|-
|8.
|Fun in the Sun
|6b+/22
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
|
|}

== Uriah Heep ==

*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Love Machine
|6b+/22
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stealin'
|6b+/22
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
|
|-
|3.
|Digital Bitch
|7b/26
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
|
|-
|4.
|Demons and Wizards
|7b+/28
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
|
|-
|5.
|Easy Living
|7b/26
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|November Afternoon
|6c/23
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
|-
|7.
|July Morning
|6b+/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|8.
|Firefly
|6a/19
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|}

== The Arete ==
*'''The Arete Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savage Me
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1994
|
|}

== Berlin Wall ==

*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Minefield
|6c/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|2.
|Vays und Meenz
|7a/24
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|3.
|Streef Bogananoff
|7a/24
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hot Toddy Bension
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|5.
|Brandenburg Gate
|6b+/21
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger
|
|-
|6.
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
|27/7b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|7.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|BB. Stuart Brown
|}

== Worlds Apart ==
*'''Worlds Apart Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Reflections
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1995
|
|-
|2.
|Project
|
|
|
|BB. R Suter
|
|-
|3.
|Delete Button
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
|
|-
|4.
|Yankee Rose
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
|
|-
|5.
|Voices
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Daze of Thunder
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
|
|-
|7.
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
|32/8b
|7 Bolts
|
|<Open>
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
|-
|8.
|Whispering Echo
|10/4
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|9.
|Little Jack Horner
|15/5b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|10.
|Kojak
|18/6a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|11.
|Rolling Stones
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
|Retro bolted by S Brown
|-
|12.
|Sukmeov
|22/6c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
|
|}

== Jurrasic Park ==

*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Against the Grain
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Jabulani
|7c/28
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
|
|-
|3.
|Big Bag Voodoo
|5/17
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Masawattee
|35/8c+
|
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
|
|-
|6.
|Nugget Slab
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
|On slab opposing overhang.
|}

== The Laundry ==

*'''The Laundry Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Super Blue
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stay Soft
|26/7b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
|
|-
|3.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== The Rage ==

*'''The Rage Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Bullet in the Head
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
|This route is manufactured.
|}

== The Hotel ==

*'''The Hotel Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|The Key
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|The bellboys, The bellboys
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
|
|-
|3.
|U Like Jamin?
|23/6c+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
|-
|4.
|Rim Service
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== The Bar ==
*'''The Bar Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savanna
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|-
|2.
|Captain Morgan
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|}
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

2013-02-16T10:25:34Z

Forket:

File:Waterworld 3.jpg

2013-02-16T10:23:05Z

Forket:

Bad Kloof

2013-01-29T23:23:06Z

Forket:

>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page

=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

=Fees, Permits, Etc=
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
</display_points>

= Crags in Bad Kloof =

Possible that some lines may be swopped as non local climbers did this page. If mistakes are found, contact admin, request permission to edit and fix it please.

== The Penthouse ==
*'''The Penthouse Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|<Project>
|
|
|
|BB. C Martinengo.
|
|-
|2.
|Pet of the Month
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
|
|-
|3.
|Groping in the Dark
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== Waterworld ==

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

*'''Waterworld History'''
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]

*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
|19/6a/6a+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|2.
|Arendsig
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|*****
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|3.
|Walk On By
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|4.
|Some Would Say
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
|
|-
|5.
|Simply Irresistable
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
|(Branches left)
|-
|5.b
|The Singularity
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
|(veers right)
|-
|6.
|Firestarter!
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|7.
|My Route Down By The River
|31/8a+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|8.
|Chongalolo
|Project
|
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
|
|-
|9.
|Twist And Crawl
|28/7c
|12 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
|
|-
|10.
|The Mission
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
|-
|11.
|Sidewinder
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|12.
|Creepy Crawly
|20/6a+
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|}

== Peanut Gallery ==

*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Good Day for Basketball
|22/6c
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|Finding Ningo
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Duende
|32/8b
|
|
|FA. Matt Bush.
|
|}

== Lion Said ==

*'''Lion Said Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Short Cut
|21/6b+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|2.
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
|23/6c+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Come Short
|25/7a+
|3 Bolts
|
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hello Aloe
|15/ 5b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Devil Speak
|21/6b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
|
|}

== Sloth Crag ==
*'''Sloth Crag Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Sunshine Reggae
|15/5b
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
|-
|2.
|One For The Money
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Rattle and Hum
|24/7a
|5 bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Beautiful Day
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2002
|
|-
|5.
|Sloth
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996
|
|-
|6.
|If I Go It will Be Double
|24/7a
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
|-
|7.
|Throw The Chicken
|9/4
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|8.
|Mediocre Youth
|21/6b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Smigelskis
|
|-
|9.
|Two For The Show
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002
|
|-
|10.
|Vision Thing
|23/6c+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2003
|
|}

== Supertubes ==

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

[[File:Supertubes1.JPG]]

*'''Supertubes Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
|21/6b+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|The Dumper
|15/5b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Beach Break
|19/6a+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Whoa She Poopie
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
|
|-
|5.
|Point Break
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Rad and Bad
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
|-
|7.
|Surf and Turf
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
| <add FA>
|
|-
|8.
|Leap Tide
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|Shares same chains as Thruster
|-
|9.
|Thruster
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
|
|-
|10.
|Triple Stinger
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
|
|-
|11.
|J-Bay
|28/7c
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|Wipe-Out
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
|-
|13.
|Hypoxia
|29/7c+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
|
|-
|14.
|First Wave
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
|
|-
|15.
| <unknown>
| <add details>
|
|
|
|}

<gallery>


File:Stu leaptide.jpg


</gallery>

== Pipeline ==

*'''Pipeline Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|3.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== South Park ==

*'''South Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
|7a/25
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|Who Killed Kenny?
|7b+/27
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
|
|}

== The Palace ==
*'''The Palace Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|-
|1.
|Bad Cop, No Donut
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
|-
|2.
|Elegantly Wasted
|26/7b
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
|
|-
|3.
|S''1''0''2''
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Icarus
|23/6c+
|
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|5.
|Lexi's Route
|25/7a+
|7 Bolts
|
| <unknown>
|
|-
|6.
|Cyberpunk
|25/7a+
|9 Bolts
|*****
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|7.
|MoonaBoos
|27/7b+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
|
|-
|8.
|Shagadelic
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2000
|
|-
|9.
|Burning Chrome
|28/7c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|10.
|Judge Dredd
|29/7c+
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|11.
|Strange Days
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|About Time
|27/7b+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|13.
|The Activist
|30/8a
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|14.
|The Neuromancer
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|15.
|Mad Max
|21/6b+
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|-
|16.
|Psycho Ranger
|20/6b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|}

== The Swamp ==

*'''The Swamp Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Gruff
|7b/26
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Route Do Me
|7b+/27
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
|
|-
|3.
|Gluttony
|7c+/29
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
|
|-
|4.
|Where Eagles Dare
|5c/16
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|5.
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
|5a/13
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|6.
|Disprin
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
|}

== Playground ==

*'''Playground Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Jungle Gym Junkie
|5c/18
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
|
|-
|2.
|Jungle Jim
|6a/19
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|3.
|See Saw
|4/15
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|4.
|The Jester
|6c+/24
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
|
|-
|5.
|Party-on Wayne
|7a/25
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|Jus Klup Ut
|7b+/27
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|7.
|Powerplay
|7a+/25
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. E February. 1995.
|
|-
|8.
|Fun in the Sun
|6b+/22
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
|
|}

== Uriah Heep ==

*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Love Machine
|6b+/22
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stealin'
|6b+/22
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
|
|-
|3.
|Digital Bitch
|7b/26
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
|
|-
|4.
|Demons and Wizards
|7b+/28
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
|
|-
|5.
|Easy Living
|7b/26
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|November Afternoon
|6c/23
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
|-
|7.
|July Morning
|6b+/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|8.
|Firefly
|6a/19
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|}

== The Arete ==
*'''The Arete Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savage Me
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1994
|
|}

== Berlin Wall ==

*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Minefield
|6c/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|2.
|Vays und Meenz
|7a/24
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|3.
|Streef Bogananoff
|7a/24
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hot Toddy Bension
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|5.
|Brandenburg Gate
|6b+/21
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger
|
|-
|6.
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
|27/7b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|7.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|BB. Stuart Brown
|}

== Worlds Apart ==
*'''Worlds Apart Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Reflections
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1995
|
|-
|2.
|Project
|
|
|
|BB. R Suter
|
|-
|3.
|Delete Button
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
|
|-
|4.
|Yankee Rose
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
|
|-
|5.
|Voices
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Daze of Thunder
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
|
|-
|7.
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
|32/8b
|7 Bolts
|
|<Open>
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
|-
|8.
|Whispering Echo
|10/4
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|9.
|Little Jack Horner
|15/5b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|10.
|Kojak
|18/6a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|11.
|Rolling Stones
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
|Retro bolted by S Brown
|-
|12.
|Sukmeov
|22/6c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
|
|}

== Jurrasic Park ==

*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Against the Grain
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Jabulani
|7c/28
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
|
|-
|3.
|Big Bag Voodoo
|5/17
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Masawattee
|35/8c+
|
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
|
|-
|6.
|Nugget Slab
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
|On slab opposing overhang.
|}

== The Laundry ==

*'''The Laundry Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Super Blue
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stay Soft
|26/7b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
|
|-
|3.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== The Rage ==

*'''The Rage Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Bullet in the Head
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
|This route is manufactured.
|}

== The Hotel ==

*'''The Hotel Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|The Key
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|The bellboys, The bellboys
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
|
|-
|3.
|U Like Jamin?
|23/6c+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
|-
|4.
|Rim Service
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== The Bar ==
*'''The Bar Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savanna
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|-
|2.
|Captain Morgan
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|}
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

Bad Kloof

2013-01-29T23:08:15Z

Forket: /* Supertubes */

>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page

=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

=Fees, Permits, Etc=
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
</display_points>

= Crags in Bad Kloof =

Possible that some lines may be swopped as non local climbers did this page. If mistakes are found, contact admin, request permission to edit and fix it please.

== The Penthouse ==
*'''The Penthouse Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|<Project>
|
|
|
|BB. C Martinengo.
|
|-
|2.
|Pet of the Month
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
|
|-
|3.
|Groping in the Dark
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== Waterworld ==

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

*'''Waterworld History'''
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]

*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
|19/6a/6a+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|2.
|Arendsig
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|*****
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|3.
|Walk On By
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|4.
|Some Would Say
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
|
|-
|5.
|Simply Irresistable
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
|(Branches left)
|-
|5.b
|The Singularity
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
|(veers right)
|-
|6.
|Firestarter!
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|7.
|My Route Down By The River
|31/8a+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|8.
|Chongalolo
|Project
|
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
|
|-
|9.
|Twist And Crawl
|28/7c
|12 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
|
|-
|10.
|The Mission
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
|-
|11.
|Sidewinder
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|12.
|Creepy Crawly
|20/6a+
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|}

== Peanut Gallery ==

*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Good Day for Basketball
|22/6c
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|Finding Ningo
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Duende
|32/8b
|
|
|FA. Matt Bush.
|
|}

== Lion Said ==

*'''Lion Said Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Short Cut
|21/6b+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|2.
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
|23/6c+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Come Short
|25/7a+
|3 Bolts
|
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hello Aloe
|15/ 5b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Devil Speak
|21/6b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
|
|}

== Sloth Crag ==
*'''Sloth Crag Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Sunshine Reggae
|15/5b
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
|-
|2.
|One For The Money
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Rattle and Hum
|24/7a
|5 bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Beautiful Day
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2002
|
|-
|5.
|Sloth
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996
|
|-
|6.
|If I Go It will Be Double
|24/7a
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
|-
|7.
|Throw The Chicken
|9/4
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|8.
|Mediocre Youth
|21/6b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Smigelskis
|
|-
|9.
|Two For The Show
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002
|
|-
|10.
|Vision Thing
|23/6c+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2003
|
|}

== Supertubes ==

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

[[File:Supertubes1.jpg]]

*'''Supertubes Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
|21/6b+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|The Dumper
|15/5b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Beach Break
|19/6a+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Whoa She Poopie
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
|
|-
|5.
|Point Break
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Rad and Bad
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
|-
|7.
|Surf and Turf
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
| <add FA>
|
|-
|8.
|Leap Tide
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|Shares same chains as Thruster
|-
|9.
|Thruster
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
|
|-
|10.
|Triple Stinger
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
|
|-
|11.
|J-Bay
|28/7c
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|Wipe-Out
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
|-
|13.
|Hypoxia
|29/7c+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
|
|-
|14.
|First Wave
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
|
|-
|15.
| <unknown>
| <add details>
|
|
|
|}

<gallery>


File:Stu leaptide.jpg


</gallery>

== Pipeline ==

*'''Pipeline Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|3.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== South Park ==

*'''South Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
|7a/25
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|Who Killed Kenny?
|7b+/27
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
|
|}

== The Palace ==
*'''The Palace Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|-
|1.
|Bad Cop, No Donut
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
|-
|2.
|Elegantly Wasted
|26/7b
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
|
|-
|3.
|S''1''0''2''
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Icarus
|23/6c+
|
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|5.
|Lexi's Route
|25/7a+
|7 Bolts
|
| <unknown>
|
|-
|6.
|Cyberpunk
|25/7a+
|9 Bolts
|*****
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|7.
|MoonaBoos
|27/7b+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
|
|-
|8.
|Shagadelic
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2000
|
|-
|9.
|Burning Chrome
|28/7c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|10.
|Judge Dredd
|29/7c+
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|11.
|Strange Days
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|About Time
|27/7b+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|13.
|The Activist
|30/8a
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|14.
|The Neuromancer
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|15.
|Mad Max
|21/6b+
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|-
|16.
|Psycho Ranger
|20/6b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|}

== The Swamp ==

*'''The Swamp Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Gruff
|7b/26
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Route Do Me
|7b+/27
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
|
|-
|3.
|Gluttony
|7c+/29
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
|
|-
|4.
|Where Eagles Dare
|5c/16
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|5.
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
|5a/13
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|6.
|Disprin
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
|}

== Playground ==

*'''Playground Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Jungle Gym Junkie
|5c/18
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
|
|-
|2.
|Jungle Jim
|6a/19
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|3.
|See Saw
|4/15
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|4.
|The Jester
|6c+/24
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
|
|-
|5.
|Party-on Wayne
|7a/25
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|Jus Klup Ut
|7b+/27
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|7.
|Powerplay
|7a+/25
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. E February. 1995.
|
|-
|8.
|Fun in the Sun
|6b+/22
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
|
|}

== Uriah Heep ==

*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Love Machine
|6b+/22
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stealin'
|6b+/22
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
|
|-
|3.
|Digital Bitch
|7b/26
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
|
|-
|4.
|Demons and Wizards
|7b+/28
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
|
|-
|5.
|Easy Living
|7b/26
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|November Afternoon
|6c/23
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
|-
|7.
|July Morning
|6b+/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|8.
|Firefly
|6a/19
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|}

== The Arete ==
*'''The Arete Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savage Me
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1994
|
|}

== Berlin Wall ==

*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Minefield
|6c/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|2.
|Vays und Meenz
|7a/24
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|3.
|Streef Bogananoff
|7a/24
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hot Toddy Bension
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|5.
|Brandenburg Gate
|6b+/21
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger
|
|-
|6.
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
|27/7b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|7.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|BB. Stuart Brown
|}

== Worlds Apart ==
*'''Worlds Apart Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Reflections
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1995
|
|-
|2.
|Project
|
|
|
|BB. R Suter
|
|-
|3.
|Delete Button
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
|
|-
|4.
|Yankee Rose
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
|
|-
|5.
|Voices
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Daze of Thunder
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
|
|-
|7.
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
|32/8b
|7 Bolts
|
|<Open>
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
|-
|8.
|Whispering Echo
|10/4
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|9.
|Little Jack Horner
|15/5b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|10.
|Kojak
|18/6a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|11.
|Rolling Stones
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
|Retro bolted by S Brown
|-
|12.
|Sukmeov
|22/6c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
|
|}

== Jurrasic Park ==

*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Against the Grain
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Jabulani
|7c/28
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
|
|-
|3.
|Big Bag Voodoo
|5/17
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Masawattee
|35/8c+
|
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
|
|-
|6.
|Nugget Slab
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
|On slab opposing overhang.
|}

== The Laundry ==

*'''The Laundry Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Super Blue
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stay Soft
|26/7b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
|
|-
|3.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== The Rage ==

*'''The Rage Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Bullet in the Head
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
|This route is manufactured.
|}

== The Hotel ==

*'''The Hotel Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|The Key
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|The bellboys, The bellboys
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
|
|-
|3.
|U Like Jamin?
|23/6c+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
|-
|4.
|Rim Service
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== The Bar ==
*'''The Bar Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savanna
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|-
|2.
|Captain Morgan
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|}
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

File:Supertubes1.JPG

2013-01-29T23:04:39Z

Forket: uploaded a new version of "File:Supertubes1.JPG": Reverted to version as of 22:52, 29 January 2013

File:Supertubes1.JPG

2013-01-29T23:04:16Z

Forket: uploaded a new version of "File:Supertubes1.JPG": Reverted to version as of 22:52, 29 January 2013

Bad Kloof

2013-01-29T23:00:17Z

Forket: /* Supertubes */

>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page

=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

=Fees, Permits, Etc=
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
</display_points>

= Crags in Bad Kloof =

Possible that some lines may be swopped as non local climbers did this page. If mistakes are found, contact admin, request permission to edit and fix it please.

== The Penthouse ==
*'''The Penthouse Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|<Project>
|
|
|
|BB. C Martinengo.
|
|-
|2.
|Pet of the Month
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
|
|-
|3.
|Groping in the Dark
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== Waterworld ==

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

*'''Waterworld History'''
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]

*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
|19/6a/6a+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|2.
|Arendsig
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|*****
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|3.
|Walk On By
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|4.
|Some Would Say
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
|
|-
|5.
|Simply Irresistable
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
|(Branches left)
|-
|5.b
|The Singularity
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
|(veers right)
|-
|6.
|Firestarter!
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|7.
|My Route Down By The River
|31/8a+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|8.
|Chongalolo
|Project
|
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
|
|-
|9.
|Twist And Crawl
|28/7c
|12 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
|
|-
|10.
|The Mission
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
|-
|11.
|Sidewinder
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|12.
|Creepy Crawly
|20/6a+
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|}

== Peanut Gallery ==

*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Good Day for Basketball
|22/6c
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|Finding Ningo
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Duende
|32/8b
|
|
|FA. Matt Bush.
|
|}

== Lion Said ==

*'''Lion Said Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Short Cut
|21/6b+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|2.
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
|23/6c+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Come Short
|25/7a+
|3 Bolts
|
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hello Aloe
|15/ 5b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Devil Speak
|21/6b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
|
|}

== Sloth Crag ==
*'''Sloth Crag Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Sunshine Reggae
|15/5b
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
|-
|2.
|One For The Money
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Rattle and Hum
|24/7a
|5 bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Beautiful Day
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2002
|
|-
|5.
|Sloth
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996
|
|-
|6.
|If I Go It will Be Double
|24/7a
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
|-
|7.
|Throw The Chicken
|9/4
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|8.
|Mediocre Youth
|21/6b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Smigelskis
|
|-
|9.
|Two For The Show
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002
|
|-
|10.
|Vision Thing
|23/6c+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2003
|
|}

== Supertubes ==

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

[[File:Supertubes1.jpeg]]

*'''Supertubes Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
|21/6b+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|The Dumper
|15/5b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Beach Break
|19/6a+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Whoa She Poopie
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
|
|-
|5.
|Point Break
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Rad and Bad
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
|-
|7.
|Surf and Turf
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
| <add FA>
|
|-
|8.
|Leap Tide
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|Shares same chains as Thruster
|-
|9.
|Thruster
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
|
|-
|10.
|Triple Stinger
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
|
|-
|11.
|J-Bay
|28/7c
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|Wipe-Out
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
|-
|13.
|Hypoxia
|29/7c+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
|
|-
|14.
|First Wave
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
|
|-
|15.
| <unknown>
| <add details>
|
|
|
|}

<gallery>


File:Stu leaptide.jpg


</gallery>

== Pipeline ==

*'''Pipeline Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|3.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== South Park ==

*'''South Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
|7a/25
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|Who Killed Kenny?
|7b+/27
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
|
|}

== The Palace ==
*'''The Palace Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|-
|1.
|Bad Cop, No Donut
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
|-
|2.
|Elegantly Wasted
|26/7b
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
|
|-
|3.
|S''1''0''2''
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Icarus
|23/6c+
|
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|5.
|Lexi's Route
|25/7a+
|7 Bolts
|
| <unknown>
|
|-
|6.
|Cyberpunk
|25/7a+
|9 Bolts
|*****
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|7.
|MoonaBoos
|27/7b+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
|
|-
|8.
|Shagadelic
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2000
|
|-
|9.
|Burning Chrome
|28/7c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|10.
|Judge Dredd
|29/7c+
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|11.
|Strange Days
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|About Time
|27/7b+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|13.
|The Activist
|30/8a
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|14.
|The Neuromancer
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|15.
|Mad Max
|21/6b+
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|-
|16.
|Psycho Ranger
|20/6b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|}

== The Swamp ==

*'''The Swamp Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Gruff
|7b/26
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Route Do Me
|7b+/27
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
|
|-
|3.
|Gluttony
|7c+/29
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
|
|-
|4.
|Where Eagles Dare
|5c/16
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|5.
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
|5a/13
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|6.
|Disprin
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
|}

== Playground ==

*'''Playground Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Jungle Gym Junkie
|5c/18
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
|
|-
|2.
|Jungle Jim
|6a/19
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|3.
|See Saw
|4/15
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|4.
|The Jester
|6c+/24
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
|
|-
|5.
|Party-on Wayne
|7a/25
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|Jus Klup Ut
|7b+/27
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|7.
|Powerplay
|7a+/25
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. E February. 1995.
|
|-
|8.
|Fun in the Sun
|6b+/22
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
|
|}

== Uriah Heep ==

*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Love Machine
|6b+/22
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stealin'
|6b+/22
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
|
|-
|3.
|Digital Bitch
|7b/26
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
|
|-
|4.
|Demons and Wizards
|7b+/28
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
|
|-
|5.
|Easy Living
|7b/26
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|November Afternoon
|6c/23
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
|-
|7.
|July Morning
|6b+/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|8.
|Firefly
|6a/19
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|}

== The Arete ==
*'''The Arete Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savage Me
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1994
|
|}

== Berlin Wall ==

*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Minefield
|6c/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|2.
|Vays und Meenz
|7a/24
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|3.
|Streef Bogananoff
|7a/24
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hot Toddy Bension
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|5.
|Brandenburg Gate
|6b+/21
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger
|
|-
|6.
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
|27/7b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|7.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|BB. Stuart Brown
|}

== Worlds Apart ==
*'''Worlds Apart Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Reflections
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1995
|
|-
|2.
|Project
|
|
|
|BB. R Suter
|
|-
|3.
|Delete Button
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
|
|-
|4.
|Yankee Rose
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
|
|-
|5.
|Voices
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Daze of Thunder
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
|
|-
|7.
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
|32/8b
|7 Bolts
|
|<Open>
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
|-
|8.
|Whispering Echo
|10/4
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|9.
|Little Jack Horner
|15/5b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|10.
|Kojak
|18/6a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|11.
|Rolling Stones
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
|Retro bolted by S Brown
|-
|12.
|Sukmeov
|22/6c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
|
|}

== Jurrasic Park ==

*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Against the Grain
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Jabulani
|7c/28
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
|
|-
|3.
|Big Bag Voodoo
|5/17
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Masawattee
|35/8c+
|
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
|
|-
|6.
|Nugget Slab
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
|On slab opposing overhang.
|}

== The Laundry ==

*'''The Laundry Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Super Blue
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stay Soft
|26/7b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
|
|-
|3.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== The Rage ==

*'''The Rage Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Bullet in the Head
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
|This route is manufactured.
|}

== The Hotel ==

*'''The Hotel Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|The Key
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|The bellboys, The bellboys
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
|
|-
|3.
|U Like Jamin?
|23/6c+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
|-
|4.
|Rim Service
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== The Bar ==
*'''The Bar Route List'''
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savanna
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|-
|2.
|Captain Morgan
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|}
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

File:Supertubes1.JPG

2013-01-29T22:54:59Z

Forket: uploaded a new version of "File:Supertubes1.JPG"

2013-01-24T17:16:03Z

Forket: /* Harry Potter */

Fern Kloof (sport and trad)

2013-01-24T15:56:23Z

Forket: /* Route guide */

= Access =
Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp. When the highway gets to a 4-way stop at a Zenex garage turn right towards Tarlton. Follow the road to a T-junction at another Zenex Garage and Oak Tree shop where you turn right. Follow this road until you see a sign to "Bekker Skole", turn left (if you get to a T-junction before this turn you missed it by a few km. Pass "Bekker Skole" and turn right at the next T-junction. Follow this road towards Rustenburg until it curves and goes around a dam. A few kilometres further you take a right turn (The first right after the dam). Follow this road and after passing "The Wigwam" resort on your right look carefully for the "Bergheim" sign, also on your right. If you get to a tar road turning left you have gone a bit too far. This resort offers good camping facilities and there are a few chalets.There is secure parking for day visitors and a short flat path to the sport crags. The natural climbs requires a steep, hot walk or a tricky and damp ascent through the kloof. To access the kloof goto the bottom right corner of the campsite, climb over the fence and follow the path, always keep right until you get into the kloof.

= Routes/ Gradings =
There are about 82 climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32. There are several classic sport routes which are relatively hard and steep, but good quality as well as many multi-pitch natural climbs of moderate grade.

= Aspect =
The kloof is shaded and cool all year round with plenty of running water. You can climb all year round just avoiding the occasional thunderstorm in summer. In the sport crags wasps like to gather in the cracks in winter, but if not provoked never seem to sting.

= Notes =
This kloof is steep & scenically attractive featuring many natural lines and harder sport routes of grade 24 including a few classic routes such as Faberge and Stormwatch. Access is through the Bergheim camp ground. Park in the campsite. You can walk to a gate and along a road until you get to a good path leading toward the kloof. You can see the kloof directly in front of you as you walk along the path. There is always plenty of water in the kloof. The bolted sport routes are found in the lower areas all below the large pool.

= Route List =

=== Lower Fern ===

Lower Area Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <unknown>
|15/5b
| <unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|2.
|<unknown>
|17/5c
|<unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|3.
|Crook and Crime
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Middlemiss, J Colenso. 1988.
|
|-
|4.
|Vandals
|26/7b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. K Smith. 1991. (On natural gear)
|Starts in the hole by the riverbed. This is the way.
|-
|5.
|<unknown>
|27/7b+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. Wesley Black. 2012.
|Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on Vandals chains.
|-
|6.
|When the Music's Over
|27/7b+
|3 Bolts, N
|
|FA. K Smith. 1991.
|Steps out over the pool. Follow 4B leftwards and finish up the crack. Additional gear required.
|-
|7.
|Mr Toad's Wild Ride
|26/7b
|Natural
|
|FA. K Smith. 1988.
|Steep natural crackline just left of Fabergé. Beware of winter wasps.
|-
|8.
|Fabergé
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1990
|
|-
|9.
|Storm Ova
|29/7c+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. D Pinkas.
|
|-
|10.
|Stormwatch
|31/8a+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1990.
|
|-
|11.
|Strong Arm of the Law
|24/7a
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson.
|
|-
|12.
|Breaking All The Rules
|23/6c+
|Natural
|
|FA. G Mallory.
|
|-
|13.
|Lawyers, Guns & Money
|27/7b+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso & T Rogers
|
|-
|14.
|<Project>
|
|
|
| BB. N Margetts.
|Line links up from TSID to LGM.
|-
|15.
|True Sailing is Dead
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. K Smith.
|
|-
|16.
|The Sultans of Swing
|24/7a, [R]
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Middlemiss.
|
|-
|17.
|<open project>
|
|[A]
|
|
|Takes the black streak right of SOS. Single U-bolt serves as anchor.
|}

=== Mirror Mirror Area ===

100m upstream from the Lower Area through the small wade pool. Routes continue upstream to large pool. Mirror Mirror Area Routes from the LEFT towards the RIGHT
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Aqualung
|32/8b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Paul Brouard. 2000.
|NB: No top Anchors
|-
|2.
|<open project>
|
|
|
|BB. A Pedley.
|
|-
|3.
|Acromax
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Murray. 1991.
|
|-
|4.
|Lost Ruby
|23/6c+
|<unknown>
|
|BB. N Margetts
|
|-
|5.
|Thunderstruck
|23/6c+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. J Orrick, D Margetts, M Seegers. 1991.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|6.
|Unknown
|22/6c
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. I Guest.
|
|-
|7.
|The Favourite Game
|23/6c+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. D Margetts, M Seegers. 1991.
|Opened on natural gear.
|
|-
|8.
|F2 Corner
|16/5c
|<unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|Permission given to retrobolt
|-
|9.
|Beautiful Losers
|20/6b
|<unknown>
|
|FA. D Margetts. 1991.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|10.
|Directly Unknown
|26/7b
|<unknown>
|
|FA. J Orrock. 1991. Retrobolted by E Riemann.
|Starts on boulders above lower pool. Dyno lefwards to finish around the corner.
|-
|11.
|Naked Instincts/Slight Change
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass, S Bradshaw (Natural Gear). Retrobolted by A Hüfner (1998).
|Opened at 24 on gear. Then holds broke.
|-
|12.
|The Energy of Slaves
|25/7a+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. M Seegers, D Margetts. 1992.
|This climb starts on the steep face above a boulder which is ascended after the pool. Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|13.
|A Will to Cower
|30/8a
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Paul Brouard. 2001.
|
|-
|14.
|Glass Menagerie
|27/7b+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1991.
|
|-
|15.
|Mirror Mirror
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Smith (Natural gear). 1986.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|16.
|The Looking Glass
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. P Lazarus. 1991.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|17.
|Liquid Glass
|25/7a+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. Eric Riemann. 2003.
|Starts on the island below Mirror Mirror wall. Climbs the open book.
|-
|18.
|Bambi and the Broken Leg
|22/6c
|<unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|19.
|Reflected Sins
|19/6a+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. N Margetts.
|
|}

=== Trad RDs for Upper Fern available at ===

[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/fernkloof.html SACIN site - Fern kloof]

Fern Kloof (sport and trad)

2013-01-24T15:54:59Z

Forket:

= Access =
Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp. When the highway gets to a 4-way stop at a Zenex garage turn right towards Tarlton. Follow the road to a T-junction at another Zenex Garage and Oak Tree shop where you turn right. Follow this road until you see a sign to "Bekker Skole", turn left (if you get to a T-junction before this turn you missed it by a few km. Pass "Bekker Skole" and turn right at the next T-junction. Follow this road towards Rustenburg until it curves and goes around a dam. A few kilometres further you take a right turn (The first right after the dam). Follow this road and after passing "The Wigwam" resort on your right look carefully for the "Bergheim" sign, also on your right. If you get to a tar road turning left you have gone a bit too far. This resort offers good camping facilities and there are a few chalets.There is secure parking for day visitors and a short flat path to the sport crags. The natural climbs requires a steep, hot walk or a tricky and damp ascent through the kloof. To access the kloof goto the bottom right corner of the campsite, climb over the fence and follow the path, always keep right until you get into the kloof.

= Routes/ Gradings =
There are about 82 climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32. There are several classic sport routes which are relatively hard and steep, but good quality as well as many multi-pitch natural climbs of moderate grade.

= Aspect =
The kloof is shaded and cool all year round with plenty of running water. You can climb all year round just avoiding the occasional thunderstorm in summer. In the sport crags wasps like to gather in the cracks in winter, but if not provoked never seem to sting.

= Notes =
This kloof is steep & scenically attractive featuring many natural lines and harder sport routes of grade 24 including a few classic routes such as Faberge and Stormwatch. Access is through the Bergheim camp ground. Park in the campsite. You can walk to a gate and along a road until you get to a good path leading toward the kloof. You can see the kloof directly in front of you as you walk along the path. There is always plenty of water in the kloof. The bolted sport routes are found in the lower areas all below the large pool.

= Route guide =

=== Lower Fern Route List ===

Lower Area Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <unknown>
|15/5b
| <unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|2.
|<unknown>
|17/5c
|<unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|3.
|Crook and Crime
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Middlemiss, J Colenso. 1988.
|
|-
|4.
|Vandals
|26/7b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. K Smith. 1991. (On natural gear)
|Starts in the hole by the riverbed. This is the way.
|-
|5.
|<unknown>
|27/7b+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. Wesley Black. 2012.
|Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on Vandals chains.
|-
|6.
|When the Music's Over
|27/7b+
|3 Bolts, N
|
|FA. K Smith. 1991.
|Steps out over the pool. Follow 4B leftwards and finish up the crack. Additional gear required.
|-
|7.
|Mr Toad's Wild Ride
|26/7b
|Natural
|
|FA. K Smith. 1988.
|Steep natural crackline just left of Fabergé. Beware of winter wasps.
|-
|8.
|Fabergé
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1990
|
|-
|9.
|Storm Ova
|29/7c+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. D Pinkas.
|
|-
|10.
|Stormwatch
|31/8a+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1990.
|
|-
|11.
|Strong Arm of the Law
|24/7a
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson.
|
|-
|12.
|Breaking All The Rules
|23/6c+
|Natural
|
|FA. G Mallory.
|
|-
|13.
|Lawyers, Guns & Money
|27/7b+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso & T Rogers
|
|-
|14.
|<Project>
|
|
|
| BB. N Margetts.
|Line links up from TSID to LGM.
|-
|15.
|True Sailing is Dead
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. K Smith.
|
|-
|16.
|The Sultans of Swing
|24/7a, [R]
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Middlemiss.
|
|-
|17.
|<open project>
|
|[A]
|
|
|Takes the black streak right of SOS. Single U-bolt serves as anchor.
|}

=== Mirror Mirror Area Route List ===

100m upstream from the Lower Area through the small wade pool. Routes continue upstream to large pool. Mirror Mirror Area Routes from the LEFT towards the RIGHT
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Aqualung
|32/8b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Paul Brouard. 2000.
|NB: No top Anchors
|-
|2.
|<open project>
|
|
|
|BB. A Pedley.
|
|-
|3.
|Acromax
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Murray. 1991.
|
|-
|4.
|Lost Ruby
|23/6c+
|<unknown>
|
|BB. N Margetts
|
|-
|5.
|Thunderstruck
|23/6c+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. J Orrick, D Margetts, M Seegers. 1991.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|6.
|Unknown
|22/6c
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. I Guest.
|
|-
|7.
|The Favourite Game
|23/6c+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. D Margetts, M Seegers. 1991.
|Opened on natural gear.
|
|-
|8.
|F2 Corner
|16/5c
|<unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|Permission given to retrobolt
|-
|9.
|Beautiful Losers
|20/6b
|<unknown>
|
|FA. D Margetts. 1991.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|10.
|Directly Unknown
|26/7b
|<unknown>
|
|FA. J Orrock. 1991. Retrobolted by E Riemann.
|Starts on boulders above lower pool. Dyno lefwards to finish around the corner.
|-
|11.
|Naked Instincts/Slight Change
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass, S Bradshaw (Natural Gear). Retrobolted by A Hüfner (1998).
|Opened at 24 on gear. Then holds broke.
|-
|12.
|The Energy of Slaves
|25/7a+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. M Seegers, D Margetts. 1992.
|This climb starts on the steep face above a boulder which is ascended after the pool. Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|13.
|A Will to Cower
|30/8a
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Paul Brouard. 2001.
|
|-
|14.
|Glass Menagerie
|27/7b+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1991.
|
|-
|15.
|Mirror Mirror
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Smith (Natural gear). 1986.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|16.
|The Looking Glass
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. P Lazarus. 1991.
|Permission given to retrobolt.
|-
|17.
|Liquid Glass
|25/7a+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. Eric Riemann. 2003.
|Starts on the island below Mirror Mirror wall. Climbs the open book.
|-
|18.
|Bambi and the Broken Leg
|22/6c
|<unknown>
|
|<unknown>
|
|-
|19.
|Reflected Sins
|19/6a+
|<unknown>
|
|FA. N Margetts.
|
|}

=== Trad RDs for Upper Fern available at ===

[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/fernkloof.html SACIN site - Fern kloof]

Chosspile

2013-01-24T15:46:39Z

Forket: /* The Wall of Aglaron */

== Directions ==

== Access ==

== Chosspile Route List ==

=== The Real Man Cave ===

=== Harry Potter ===

=== The Lord of the Rings ===

This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way too the top large cave.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT. This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Pipeweed
|22/6c
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Dewald Kloppers.
|
|-
|2.
|Frodo / Exit Planet Dust
|18/6a
|9 Bolts
|
|BB. Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. FA. Rob Brinkworth OR Sarah Houghton. <Please pick one, as I'm sure you both didn't clip the chains at the same time>
|
|-
|3.
|A Shortcut to Mushrooms
|21/6b+
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
|Voices of Saruman
|23/6c+
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Gandalf
|24/7a
|
|
|
|
|-
|6.
|Mourn not overmuch
|25/7a+
|
|
|
|
|-
|7.
|Halfling
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|
|-
|8.
|Gollum
|25/7a+
|
|
|
|
|-
|9.
|Gollum extension <add name>
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|10.
|Big Bully
|29/7c+
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Dario <add surname>. 2012.
|Ground extension.
|-
|11.
|Bully for Brontosaurus
|28/7C
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Peter Lazarus.
|Starts in cave.
|-
|12.
|Tyrannosaurus Rex
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|Starts in cave.
|-
|13.
| <Richard Lords bolt line running through cave open project.>
|
|
|
|
|This will go after Shadowfax has been crushed. Needs new bolts.
|-
|14.
| <Shadowfax open project>
|
|
|
|RBB. Andrew Pedley & Colin Crabtree.
|Richard Lord had the vision.
|-
|15.
|The Chossfather
|28/7c
|
|
|FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.
|
|-
|16.
|Don't Deck P1
|23/6c+
|
|
|
|There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down.
|-
|17.
|Don't Let Go
|28/7c
|
|
|
|Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.
|-
|18.
|Don't Deck <extension right, add name>
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.
|-
|19.
|Shelob
|24/7a
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
|
|-
|20.
|Anduril Flame of the West
|30,31/8a,8a+
|
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
|
|-
|21.
|Fossil Fuel
|30/8a
|
|
|BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher.
|Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating.
|-
|22.
| <Ralph's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Ralph Brucher.
|
|-
|22.
| <Pieter Martin's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Pieter Martin.
|
|-
|22.
| <Colin Crabtree's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002.
|
|-
|23.
|Grimslade
|27/7b+
|6 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|24.
|Unfinished Business
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|25.
|Hobbitry in Arms
|20/6b
|6 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|26.
|Ramble On
|18/6a
|
|
|
|
|}

=== The Wall of Aglarond ===

This wall is past Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings, through the gulley and past some scree slope.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Seventeen
|17/5c
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
|The King of the Golden Hall
|17/5c
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
|
|-
|3.
|Mr Gamgee
|20/6b
|9 Bolts
|
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
|-
|4.
|Tarrawankie
|19/6a+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Legolas
|22/6c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2002.
|
|-
|6.
|Lady of Lorien
|22/6c
|11 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|7.
|Aragorn
|21
|14 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|8.
| <unknow name>
|22,23/6c,6c+
|
|
| <Add FA>
|
|-
|9.
|Sauron
|18/6a
|
|
|
|
|-
|10.
|Blue Flowers
|15/5b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. Rob Brinkworth.
|
|}

Chosspile

2013-01-24T15:46:17Z

Forket: /* The Wall of Aragon */

== Directions ==

== Access ==

== Chosspile Route List ==

=== The Real Man Cave ===

=== Harry Potter ===

=== The Lord of the Rings ===

This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way too the top large cave.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT. This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Pipeweed
|22/6c
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Dewald Kloppers.
|
|-
|2.
|Frodo / Exit Planet Dust
|18/6a
|9 Bolts
|
|BB. Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. FA. Rob Brinkworth OR Sarah Houghton. <Please pick one, as I'm sure you both didn't clip the chains at the same time>
|
|-
|3.
|A Shortcut to Mushrooms
|21/6b+
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
|Voices of Saruman
|23/6c+
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Gandalf
|24/7a
|
|
|
|
|-
|6.
|Mourn not overmuch
|25/7a+
|
|
|
|
|-
|7.
|Halfling
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|
|-
|8.
|Gollum
|25/7a+
|
|
|
|
|-
|9.
|Gollum extension <add name>
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|10.
|Big Bully
|29/7c+
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Dario <add surname>. 2012.
|Ground extension.
|-
|11.
|Bully for Brontosaurus
|28/7C
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Peter Lazarus.
|Starts in cave.
|-
|12.
|Tyrannosaurus Rex
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|Starts in cave.
|-
|13.
| <Richard Lords bolt line running through cave open project.>
|
|
|
|
|This will go after Shadowfax has been crushed. Needs new bolts.
|-
|14.
| <Shadowfax open project>
|
|
|
|RBB. Andrew Pedley & Colin Crabtree.
|Richard Lord had the vision.
|-
|15.
|The Chossfather
|28/7c
|
|
|FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.
|
|-
|16.
|Don't Deck P1
|23/6c+
|
|
|
|There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down.
|-
|17.
|Don't Let Go
|28/7c
|
|
|
|Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.
|-
|18.
|Don't Deck <extension right, add name>
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.
|-
|19.
|Shelob
|24/7a
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
|
|-
|20.
|Anduril Flame of the West
|30,31/8a,8a+
|
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
|
|-
|21.
|Fossil Fuel
|30/8a
|
|
|BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher.
|Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating.
|-
|22.
| <Ralph's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Ralph Brucher.
|
|-
|22.
| <Pieter Martin's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Pieter Martin.
|
|-
|22.
| <Colin Crabtree's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002.
|
|-
|23.
|Grimslade
|27/7b+
|6 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|24.
|Unfinished Business
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|25.
|Hobbitry in Arms
|20/6b
|6 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|26.
|Ramble On
|18/6a
|
|
|
|
|}

=== The Wall of Aglaron ===

This wall is past Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings, through the gulley and past some scree slope.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Seventeen
|17/5c
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
|The King of the Golden Hall
|17/5c
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
|
|-
|3.
|Mr Gamgee
|20/6b
|9 Bolts
|
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
|-
|4.
|Tarrawankie
|19/6a+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Legolas
|22/6c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2002.
|
|-
|6.
|Lady of Lorien
|22/6c
|11 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|7.
|Aragorn
|21
|14 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|8.
| <unknow name>
|22,23/6c,6c+
|
|
| <Add FA>
|
|-
|9.
|Sauron
|18/6a
|
|
|
|
|-
|10.
|Blue Flowers
|15/5b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. Rob Brinkworth.
|
|}

Chosspile

2013-01-24T15:45:05Z

Forket:

== Directions ==

== Access ==

== Chosspile Route List ==

=== The Real Man Cave ===

=== Harry Potter ===

=== The Lord of the Rings ===

This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way too the top large cave.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT. This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Pipeweed
|22/6c
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Dewald Kloppers.
|
|-
|2.
|Frodo / Exit Planet Dust
|18/6a
|9 Bolts
|
|BB. Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. FA. Rob Brinkworth OR Sarah Houghton. <Please pick one, as I'm sure you both didn't clip the chains at the same time>
|
|-
|3.
|A Shortcut to Mushrooms
|21/6b+
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
|Voices of Saruman
|23/6c+
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Gandalf
|24/7a
|
|
|
|
|-
|6.
|Mourn not overmuch
|25/7a+
|
|
|
|
|-
|7.
|Halfling
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|
|-
|8.
|Gollum
|25/7a+
|
|
|
|
|-
|9.
|Gollum extension <add name>
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|10.
|Big Bully
|29/7c+
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Dario <add surname>. 2012.
|Ground extension.
|-
|11.
|Bully for Brontosaurus
|28/7C
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Peter Lazarus.
|Starts in cave.
|-
|12.
|Tyrannosaurus Rex
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|Starts in cave.
|-
|13.
| <Richard Lords bolt line running through cave open project.>
|
|
|
|
|This will go after Shadowfax has been crushed. Needs new bolts.
|-
|14.
| <Shadowfax open project>
|
|
|
|RBB. Andrew Pedley & Colin Crabtree.
|Richard Lord had the vision.
|-
|15.
|The Chossfather
|28/7c
|
|
|FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.
|
|-
|16.
|Don't Deck P1
|23/6c+
|
|
|
|There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down.
|-
|17.
|Don't Let Go
|28/7c
|
|
|
|Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.
|-
|18.
|Don't Deck <extension right, add name>
|27/7b+
|
|
|
|Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.
|-
|19.
|Shelob
|24/7a
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
|
|-
|20.
|Anduril Flame of the West
|30,31/8a,8a+
|
|
|
|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
|
|-
|21.
|Fossil Fuel
|30/8a
|
|
|BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher.
|Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating.
|-
|22.
| <Ralph's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Ralph Brucher.
|
|-
|22.
| <Pieter Martin's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Pieter Martin.
|
|-
|22.
| <Colin Crabtree's Open Project>
|
|
|
|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002.
|
|-
|23.
|Grimslade
|27/7b+
|6 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|24.
|Unfinished Business
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|25.
|Hobbitry in Arms
|20/6b
|6 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|26.
|Ramble On
|18/6a
|
|
|
|
|}

=== The Wall of Aragon ===

This wall is past Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings, through the gulley and past some scree slope.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Seventeen
|17/5c
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
|The King of the Golden Hall
|17/5c
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
|
|-
|3.
|Mr Gamgee
|20/6b
|9 Bolts
|
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
|-
|4.
|Tarrawankie
|19/6a+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Legolas
|22/6c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2002.
|
|-
|6.
|Lady of Lorien
|22/6c
|11 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|7.
|Aragorn
|21
|14 Bolts
|
|
|
|-
|8.
| <unknow name>
|22,23/6c,6c+
|
|
| <Add FA>
|
|-
|9.
|Sauron
|18/6a
|
|
|
|
|-
|10.
|Blue Flowers
|15/5b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. Rob Brinkworth.
|
|}