South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Wilgepoort

2013-03-18T13:24:17Z

Hector:

Multi pitch Trad Climbing north-east of Bronkhorstspruit in the Gouwsberg valley on the banks of the Wilge river.

Wilgepoort has been a firm favourite with a small but enthusiastic number of adventure climbers from the Pretoria/Johannesburg area since its discovery in 1966. It has been described as the best winter single day, adventure crag in the Pretoria/Johannesburg area. The crag is located north-east of Bronkhorstspruit in Mpumalanga, situated in the Gouwsberg valley on the banks of the Wilge river, in a unique, subtropical middleveldt setting. The crag is approximately 110 metres high at its highest. Please first contact the MCSA for the latest access, it is 'delicate'.

== Season ==
VERY HOT in summer (Dec/Jan/Feb). An Ecellent winter crag.

== Rock ==
Waterberg sedimentary rock. Vertical Crack climbing

== Gear ==
Standard trad rack + some extra cams. Helmets should be worn. 50m rope.

== The climbing ==
There are about 70+ traditional routes, each consisting aof our 3-5 pitches in length. The rock comprises weathered Waterberg sedimentary rocks of excellent quality, and vertical cracks predominate on the Main crag. There is some loose rock at the top of some routes, so you are advised to wear a helmet. Most routes follow cracks, open books, grooves and chimneys. A standard trad rack, supplemented by additional camming devices usually suffices. The size and duplicates of camming devices to be carried can usually be determined in advance, once the width of the crack to be climbed is observed. (If ever in doubt, take MORE). There are some routes which feature bolts and pegs, however no route is entirely protected in this way. Therefore be prepared to place gear, and be proficient in this skill. Most routes will require some jamming at some point.

== Getting there ==
The roads are passable with normal cars. Contact MCSA for latest access details (fees apply). The MCSA has been working hard over the years to keep the access to this area open. Please be quiet, don't litter or do anything else that would upset the owners of the property and possibly close access in the future, always please first contact the MCSA.

== Food and accommodation ==
Camping was traditionally done on the western shore of the large pool, and this venue remains popular due to its proximity to the Main crag. However, another campsite closer to the parking area has become popular in recent times; it is located on a beach immediately upstream of the rocky ridge which one scrambles over after 100 metres from the cars. There is space for approximately five tents.

== References ==
A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website www.saclimb.co.za

== Notes ==
The crags are located in an area of wild, African scenic beauty. It is not uncommon to see a pair of Black Eagles, the resident gymnogene, giant kingfishers and otters fishing in the Big Pool, nor to hear the bark of baboons. When the leaves on the trees and bushes are turning colour, especially those located at water level, the place is a sight to behold. Please keep all gates closed. Camping and parking at present are allowed and a fee is charged - contact the Johannesburg or Magaliesberg Sections of the MCSA for details. River water must be sterilised (note that the usual access route requires fording the river). Fire hazard is high: take all precautions. All rubbish shall be removed, not burned or buried. Climbing is not allowed on the separate Western crag (also popularly known as The Pillar of Eros and situated 800 metres upstream of the Main crag) during the Black Eagle Nesting season (April to Mid- November).

Note that Wilgepoort is known for rockfalls - wear a helmet, take care and climb with a cellphone.

== Routes ==
''' Johnny Walker, 24, **** '''
Climbs the obvious rightwards diagonal crack on the right hand wall of Cabernet. The climb starts from the rap anchors at the base of the diagonal crack, although it's better to belay lower down on the big, sloping ledge above Cabernet's first pitch.
1. 24 20m From the rap anchors climb the crack to the right skyline. A #1 and then a #2 Camalot are useful about two-thirds of the way up the crack.
FA: Hector Pringle and Andrew Porter 2013-03-16

2010-11-30T11:12:55Z

2010-11-08T15:38:48Z

Hector: /* The West Wing (to the true left of the waterfall) */

= History =
Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment overlooking Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120m and the rock quality is mostly excellent. The area was climbed at mostly in the '60's and '70's and since then there has been little activity. This means that most of the routes are easier than about grade 20 (or else they have aid) so the place is a playground for first ascents and first free ascents. But you better hurry up because the routes are falling thick and fast.

= Ethics =
NO BOLTING!!!!

= Access =
The JHB MCSA gets access here once a year for a meet, usually in September. Consult their meet sheet.

The land is privately owned and, although the land-owner is climber-friendly, he values his privacy and his property very highly. So if you want to climb here, go through the MCSA and FOLLOW ALL THE RULES GIVEN BY THE LANDOWNER! Usually he requires:
1) Names and telephone numbers of members of your club who will be in the group.
2) Car registration numbers.
3) Time of arrival.
4) Everyone will have to sign an indemnity form on arrival.

The gates are normally locked and the land-owner makes an arrangement with his employee to open for climbers at a pre-arranged time. DO NOT BE LATE BECAUSE THERE IS NO CELL PHONE SIGNAL AND YOU WILL PISS EVERYONE OFF IF THE GATE-KEEPER IS KEPT WAITING!

There are a number of dwellings on the property. Please stay well away from these and respect the privacy of the land-owner and his family/guests.

= Facilities & Camping =
There are no facilities. Camping is in the thorn trees by the cars, next to a usually dry dam. NO FIRES ALLOWED! THE RISK OF VELD FIRE IS TOO HIGH!

The campsite is above the cliffs. It is a 15 to 20 minute easy walk down a dirt track to the base of the cliffs. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THIS ROAD - YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET BACK UP AGAIN!

= The Climbing =
The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base.
Counter-intuitively, the East Wing faces west (morning shade) and the West Wing faces east (afternoon shade).

The West Wing is the main event with routes between 100 and 150m high. It is very hot in the morning and some of the faces still catch sun in the afternoon. You can find shady routes here though if you start climbing late enough.
The East Wing is shorter (up to about 60m high) and not as extensive. There are, however, some excllent routes.

It works well to do a couple of routes on the East Wing from very early in the morning, to then have a snooze through the heat of the day, and start a big route up the West Wing at about 3pm.

The descent gulley/track descends to the east of the East Wing. There is a very scrappy-looking crag further east of this with one route on it but it really doesn't look worthwhile. It has been dubbed the Scrap Heap.

At the far western end of the West Wing the crag is much shorter. There are currently no routes here but there appears to be some good rock. It looks like it owuld be easiest to access this by walking west along the top and then down past the far end of the crag.

The routes are listed from left to right, looking up.

True right is on the right when looking downstream.

== The Scrap Heap ==
When descending the gulley/track, just after you pop out of the cutting look to your right. You will see a pile of choss. Climb over the wall of the track and traverse to the crag.

== The East Wing (to the true right of the waterfall) ==
Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The East Wing is the crag up to your left. Scramble up to the base of the crag and walk left to the routes.

''' A RUSH OF BLOOD TO THE HEAD 21 *****'''
Climbs the front of a large pillar/buttress at the far left end of the East wing. Walk up to the base of the East wing from the big pool beneath the waterfall. Walk left beneath the crag, past the massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). You can see the buttress/pillar from here. Walk to the base of the buttress. It is the last good rock before the descent gulley. (You can see the climb well from the descent gulley - great photo opportunities). Start towards the left of the buttress.
1. 50m, 21 Climb straight up on crazy jugs. When these die step left and climb the arête (gear is adequate). Pass the roof to the left and continue up the face above to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16.
Descent: Scramble rightwards off the top of the buttress. Walk right along the bushy ledge to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree on a big block just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top.

''' THE GAY MONKEY 20 ****'''
Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). Immediately to the right is a buttress with a large, detached block at its base (HANDJAM ascends this buttress). The next buttress further right has an obvious splitter up a slab for its top third. This route ascends the splitter. Start directly beneath it.
1. 60m, 20 Climb up easy rock until it steepens. Step out right to a flake line that curves up and right. Up this to where it dies. Climb diagonally left on excellent jugs (runout) to a ledge. Step left to the main corner crack. Up this to where it ends and continue up the face above to the bottom of the splitter. Climb the splitter and exit left at the top to a tree belay.
FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrell, Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle, Herman Uys 2010-10-16.
Descent: Abseil off the tree or climb a short scramble and top out.
Notes: The splitter was originally approached by doing the first pitch of HANDJAM and then traversing right, by Ian, Graham and Christie, Sept 2010.

''' NAKED REPTILE 22 *****'''
Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). About 50m right of this the bottom of the crag is fairly broken. Start by scrambling up here to a ledge about 10m above the ground. This is about 8m beneath a long, narrow roof with an undercling crack around its left edge. The route pulls through this roof then moves left onto the steep wall with the splitter hand crack.
1. 50m, 22 Climb the corner to the base of the roof. Undercling left and crank round the left edge of the roof into a corner. Up this until able to step left to gain the base of the splitter. Climb the splitter to a good rail. Step left to the arête and climb this until able to step back right into the continuation of the splitter. Climb this for a few meters and then step left again to climb jugs to a good ledge in an alcove.
2. 30m, 17 Climb the crack above and left of the alcove. Follow your nose to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16.
Descent: Scramble down and left to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top.
Notes: Opened with one rest. Still needs a clean ascent.
From the top of pitch 1 it is possible to climb/scramble diagonally left to walking territory.

== The West Wing (to the true left of the waterfall) ==
Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The West Wing is the main crag up to your right. Cross the river and scramble up to the base of the crag. Walk right along the base to the routes.

[[File:west_wing_topo.jpg]]

'''THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM 22 (20A1) ****'''
This route ascends the very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. Start where some tree roots come down the face to ground level.
1. 50m, 19 Climb tree roots until able to rail left to a tree. Up to another rail, then left again to the base of a shallow open book/groove. Climb the face to the left of the book to a ledge. One can stance here but it makes sense to carry on up the main open book above and take a hanging stance about 5m below some massive blocks in the right wall.
2. 30m, 22 Continue up the corner, over the massive blocks. Climb carefully up the flake on the left wall to beneath the roofs. Power through and then traverse left to pull around the last roof. Climb the corner above until you run out of gear or rope.
3. 30m, 18 Continue up the corner to the top.
FA: Jerry Linke, Romey Druschke, Eckhart Druschke, 1979/04/14.
FFA Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, 2010-10-16.
Notes: Small cams are useful

'''HEAD ARRANGEMENT 22 (20A1) ****'''
Standing near the big pool one can see a very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. This is THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM. The next deep open book to the right of this (about 30m right, and right of the cave) is a large offwidth crack. This is KNEEJAM BLUES. HEAD ARRANGEMENT starts as for KNEEJAM BLUES and then branches off left and heads for the big roof. It breaks around the left edge of the roof and ascends the headwall to the top.
1. 30m, 16 Climb the first pitch of KNEEJAM BLUES to where that route heads up to the obvious massive open book. Continue up the pleasant corner to a block stance at an acacia tree.
2. 25m, 20 Climb the continuation corner above, past a fig tree (the original route went left to the arête for a stance and then back right into the corner). Make wild moves rightwards past the overhang and climb the slab until able to step left to a good crack line in the face. Climb this for a few meters and take a semi-hanging stance (It is possible to stance on the right soon after pulling past the overhang, but it is then very tricky to get back onto the face).
3. 40m, 22 Climb up to a rail about 3m below the roof. Rail left to a perch where the roof pinches out. Reach far left and crank through to gain the headwall crack. Climb this to easier ground. Jug-haul to the top.
FA: J. Fantini, G. Moseley, 1980.
FFA Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-17.
Notes: The original HEAD ARRANGEMENT first pitch starts about 5m left of KNEEJAM BLUES and is graded 19A1. It looks very dirty and unappealing, but still awaits a FFA.

'''CONTRABAND 22 ****'''
Start to the right of Leguan, beneath the obvious left-facing open book.
1. 55m, 22 Climb up and left until able to traverse right to the base of the book. Climb the corner to a platform at the top.
2. 60m, 16 Start on the right side of the platform. Climb up the blocks, step left and up then traverse left to a gulley. Up this to a tree. Climb the fun corner behind the tree, step left to the arête at the top. Climb this ridge to the summit.
FA: H Sangerl, E Druschke, E Haber 1978, FFA Hector Pringle, Linda Watson, Ian Kotze 2008-09-12.

'''THE ESTABLISHMENT 19 ***'''
This route follows a line between Groovy and Dirt bag groove. Start at the same spot as “Snakeskin Arête” but instead of climbing diagonally right, head left up the obvious ramp below the huge roof that is about 60 meters up.
1. 55m, 15 Climb the corner of the ramp until forced out left by the steeper ground and some poor looking rock. Head diagonally left towards the arête and take a stance on the arête at some blocks.
2. 25m, 19 Traverse back into the corner then out on the face to the crack that goes up to the bulge. Climb the crack to below the bulge then traverse right on big flat edges and step down onto the arête. Step across the open book and climb that to the ledge.
3. 55 m, 17 Climb the layback crack and then step right onto the arête. Climb diagonally left to below big corner that turns into a chimney higher up. Climb to below the chimney then traverse left onto the face. Climb the face to the top.
FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrel. 2009-09-05
Note: Third pitch is brilliant exposed climbing. Would be worthwhile to try and go through the bulge. There is good gear. It will be hard though.

'''SNAKESKIN ARÊTE 20 ****'''
Start to the right of Groovy, on a slight hump of ground at the base of the crag. Up and to the right is a striking arête with a steep, featured face to its left. Directly up is a fig tree at about 35m.
1. 35m, 20 Climb up to a small bushy ledge at 8m. Step right to a grotty groove. Up this to a ledge. Climb the vague corner to the roof above. Pull through this slightly left to ledges then back right and up to the fig tree. Stance just above the tree.
2. 45m, 20 Traverse right from the tree to the middle of the face. Up the crack to some small foot ledges. When the wall blanks out, traverse right to the arête. Climb the arête until a crack/groove breaks slightly left. Steeply up this to a ledge. A mind blowing pitch!
3. 20m, 18 Climb the vague recess above to a blocky ledge. Up the sandpaper corner above this to a tree with a ledge above.
Walk 10m to the left hand side of the ledge
4. 30m, 17 Climb the obvious jam crack to a small ledge. Up the cracks above to a small roof. Pull through to blocks. Step left and teeter up the suspect blocks for 5m to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle, Linda Watson, Ian Kotze 2008-09-13.

File:West wing topo.jpg

2010-11-08T15:35:54Z

Hector: West Wing Topo

West Wing Topo

Magageni

2010-11-08T15:27:07Z

Hector: /* Ethics */

= History =
Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment overlooking Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120m and the rock quality is mostly excellent. The area was climbed at mostly in the '60's and '70's and since then there has been little activity. This means that most of the routes are easier than about grade 20 (or else they have aid) so the place is a playground for first ascents and first free ascents. But you better hurry up because the routes are falling thick and fast.

= Ethics =
NO BOLTING!!!!

= Access =
The JHB MCSA gets access here once a year for a meet, usually in September. Consult their meet sheet.

The land is privately owned and, although the land-owner is climber-friendly, he values his privacy and his property very highly. So if you want to climb here, go through the MCSA and FOLLOW ALL THE RULES GIVEN BY THE LANDOWNER! Usually he requires:
1) Names and telephone numbers of members of your club who will be in the group.
2) Car registration numbers.
3) Time of arrival.
4) Everyone will have to sign an indemnity form on arrival.

The gates are normally locked and the land-owner makes an arrangement with his employee to open for climbers at a pre-arranged time. DO NOT BE LATE BECAUSE THERE IS NO CELL PHONE SIGNAL AND YOU WILL PISS EVERYONE OFF IF THE GATE-KEEPER IS KEPT WAITING!

There are a number of dwellings on the property. Please stay well away from these and respect the privacy of the land-owner and his family/guests.

= Facilities & Camping =
There are no facilities. Camping is in the thorn trees by the cars, next to a usually dry dam. NO FIRES ALLOWED! THE RISK OF VELD FIRE IS TOO HIGH!

The campsite is above the cliffs. It is a 15 to 20 minute easy walk down a dirt track to the base of the cliffs. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THIS ROAD - YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET BACK UP AGAIN!

= The Climbing =
The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base.
Counter-intuitively, the East Wing faces west (morning shade) and the West Wing faces east (afternoon shade).

The West Wing is the main event with routes between 100 and 150m high. It is very hot in the morning and some of the faces still catch sun in the afternoon. You can find shady routes here though if you start climbing late enough.
The East Wing is shorter (up to about 60m high) and not as extensive. There are, however, some excllent routes.

It works well to do a couple of routes on the East Wing from very early in the morning, to then have a snooze through the heat of the day, and start a big route up the West Wing at about 3pm.

The descent gulley/track descends to the east of the East Wing. There is a very scrappy-looking crag further east of this with one route on it but it really doesn't look worthwhile. It has been dubbed the Scrap Heap.

At the far western end of the West Wing the crag is much shorter. There are currently no routes here but there appears to be some good rock. It looks like it owuld be easiest to access this by walking west along the top and then down past the far end of the crag.

The routes are listed from left to right, looking up.

True right is on the right when looking downstream.

== The Scrap Heap ==
When descending the gulley/track, just after you pop out of the cutting look to your right. You will see a pile of choss. Climb over the wall of the track and traverse to the crag.

== The East Wing (to the true right of the waterfall) ==
Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The East Wing is the crag up to your left. Scramble up to the base of the crag and walk left to the routes.

''' A RUSH OF BLOOD TO THE HEAD 21 *****'''
Climbs the front of a large pillar/buttress at the far left end of the East wing. Walk up to the base of the East wing from the big pool beneath the waterfall. Walk left beneath the crag, past the massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). You can see the buttress/pillar from here. Walk to the base of the buttress. It is the last good rock before the descent gulley. (You can see the climb well from the descent gulley - great photo opportunities). Start towards the left of the buttress.
1. 50m, 21 Climb straight up on crazy jugs. When these die step left and climb the arête (gear is adequate). Pass the roof to the left and continue up the face above to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16.
Descent: Scramble rightwards off the top of the buttress. Walk right along the bushy ledge to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree on a big block just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top.

''' THE GAY MONKEY 20 ****'''
Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). Immediately to the right is a buttress with a large, detached block at its base (HANDJAM ascends this buttress). The next buttress further right has an obvious splitter up a slab for its top third. This route ascends the splitter. Start directly beneath it.
1. 60m, 20 Climb up easy rock until it steepens. Step out right to a flake line that curves up and right. Up this to where it dies. Climb diagonally left on excellent jugs (runout) to a ledge. Step left to the main corner crack. Up this to where it ends and continue up the face above to the bottom of the splitter. Climb the splitter and exit left at the top to a tree belay.
FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrell, Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle, Herman Uys 2010-10-16.
Descent: Abseil off the tree or climb a short scramble and top out.
Notes: The splitter was originally approached by doing the first pitch of HANDJAM and then traversing right, by Ian, Graham and Christie, Sept 2010.

''' NAKED REPTILE 22 *****'''
Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). About 50m right of this the bottom of the crag is fairly broken. Start by scrambling up here to a ledge about 10m above the ground. This is about 8m beneath a long, narrow roof with an undercling crack around its left edge. The route pulls through this roof then moves left onto the steep wall with the splitter hand crack.
1. 50m, 22 Climb the corner to the base of the roof. Undercling left and crank round the left edge of the roof into a corner. Up this until able to step left to gain the base of the splitter. Climb the splitter to a good rail. Step left to the arête and climb this until able to step back right into the continuation of the splitter. Climb this for a few meters and then step left again to climb jugs to a good ledge in an alcove.
2. 30m, 17 Climb the crack above and left of the alcove. Follow your nose to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16.
Descent: Scramble down and left to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top.
Notes: Opened with one rest. Still needs a clean ascent.
From the top of pitch 1 it is possible to climb/scramble diagonally left to walking territory.

== The West Wing (to the true left of the waterfall) ==
Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The West Wing is the main crag up to your right. Cross the river and scramble up to the base of the crag. Walk right along the base to the routes.

'''THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM 22 (20A1) ****'''
This route ascends the very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. Start where some tree roots come down the face to ground level.
1. 50m, 19 Climb tree roots until able to rail left to a tree. Up to another rail, then left again to the base of a shallow open book/groove. Climb the face to the left of the book to a ledge. One can stance here but it makes sense to carry on up the main open book above and take a hanging stance about 5m below some massive blocks in the right wall.
2. 30m, 22 Continue up the corner, over the massive blocks. Climb carefully up the flake on the left wall to beneath the roofs. Power through and then traverse left to pull around the last roof. Climb the corner above until you run out of gear or rope.
3. 30m, 18 Continue up the corner to the top.
FA: Jerry Linke, Romey Druschke, Eckhart Druschke, 1979/04/14.
FFA Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, 2010-10-16.
Notes: Small cams are useful

'''HEAD ARRANGEMENT 22 (20A1) ****'''
Standing near the big pool one can see a very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. This is THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM. The next deep open book to the right of this (about 30m right, and right of the cave) is a large offwidth crack. This is KNEEJAM BLUES. HEAD ARRANGEMENT starts as for KNEEJAM BLUES and then branches off left and heads for the big roof. It breaks around the left edge of the roof and ascends the headwall to the top.
1. 30m, 16 Climb the first pitch of KNEEJAM BLUES to where that route heads up to the obvious massive open book. Continue up the pleasant corner to a block stance at an acacia tree.
2. 25m, 20 Climb the continuation corner above, past a fig tree (the original route went left to the arête for a stance and then back right into the corner). Make wild moves rightwards past the overhang and climb the slab until able to step left to a good crack line in the face. Climb this for a few meters and take a semi-hanging stance (It is possible to stance on the right soon after pulling past the overhang, but it is then very tricky to get back onto the face).
3. 40m, 22 Climb up to a rail about 3m below the roof. Rail left to a perch where the roof pinches out. Reach far left and crank through to gain the headwall crack. Climb this to easier ground. Jug-haul to the top.
FA: J. Fantini, G. Moseley, 1980.
FFA Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-17.
Notes: The original HEAD ARRANGEMENT first pitch starts about 5m left of KNEEJAM BLUES and is graded 19A1. It looks very dirty and unappealing, but still awaits a FFA.

'''CONTRABAND 22 ****'''
Start to the right of Leguan, beneath the obvious left-facing open book.
1. 55m, 22 Climb up and left until able to traverse right to the base of the book. Climb the corner to a platform at the top.
2. 60m, 16 Start on the right side of the platform. Climb up the blocks, step left and up then traverse left to a gulley. Up this to a tree. Climb the fun corner behind the tree, step left to the arête at the top. Climb this ridge to the summit.
FA: H Sangerl, E Druschke, E Haber 1978, FFA Hector Pringle, Linda Watson, Ian Kotze 2008-09-12.

'''THE ESTABLISHMENT 19 ***'''
This route follows a line between Groovy and Dirt bag groove. Start at the same spot as “Snakeskin Arête” but instead of climbing diagonally right, head left up the obvious ramp below the huge roof that is about 60 meters up.
1. 55m, 15 Climb the corner of the ramp until forced out left by the steeper ground and some poor looking rock. Head diagonally left towards the arête and take a stance on the arête at some blocks.
2. 25m, 19 Traverse back into the corner then out on the face to the crack that goes up to the bulge. Climb the crack to below the bulge then traverse right on big flat edges and step down onto the arête. Step across the open book and climb that to the ledge.
3. 55 m, 17 Climb the layback crack and then step right onto the arête. Climb diagonally left to below big corner that turns into a chimney higher up. Climb to below the chimney then traverse left onto the face. Climb the face to the top.
FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrel. 2009-09-05
Note: Third pitch is brilliant exposed climbing. Would be worthwhile to try and go through the bulge. There is good gear. It will be hard though.

'''SNAKESKIN ARÊTE 20 ****'''
Start to the right of Groovy, on a slight hump of ground at the base of the crag. Up and to the right is a striking arête with a steep, featured face to its left. Directly up is a fig tree at about 35m.
1. 35m, 20 Climb up to a small bushy ledge at 8m. Step right to a grotty groove. Up this to a ledge. Climb the vague corner to the roof above. Pull through this slightly left to ledges then back right and up to the fig tree. Stance just above the tree.
2. 45m, 20 Traverse right from the tree to the middle of the face. Up the crack to some small foot ledges. When the wall blanks out, traverse right to the arête. Climb the arête until a crack/groove breaks slightly left. Steeply up this to a ledge. A mind blowing pitch!
3. 20m, 18 Climb the vague recess above to a blocky ledge. Up the sandpaper corner above this to a tree with a ledge above.
Walk 10m to the left hand side of the ledge
4. 30m, 17 Climb the obvious jam crack to a small ledge. Up the cracks above to a small roof. Pull through to blocks. Step left and teeter up the suspect blocks for 5m to the top.
FA: Hector Pringle, Linda Watson, Ian Kotze 2008-09-13.

Magageni

2010-11-08T11:16:00Z

2010-11-04T11:04:57Z

Hector: Created page with 'Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment overlooking Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120m and the rock quality is mostly excellent. The area was c…'

Magageni is an amazing wild African climbing venue on the escarpment overlooking Loskop Dam. Routes range from 50 to 120m and the rock quality is mostly excellent. The area was climbed at mostly in the '60's and '70's and since then there has been little activity. This means that most of the routes are easier than about grade 20 (or else they have aid) so the place is a playground for first ascents and first free ascents. But you better hurry up because the routes are falling thick and fast.

The JHB MCSA gets access here once a year for a meet, usually in September. Consult their meet sheet.

The land is privately owned and, although the land-owner is climber-friendly, he values his privacy and his property very highly. So if you want to climb here, go through the MCSA and FOLLOW ALL THE RULES GIVEN BY THE LANDOWNER! Usually he requires:
1) Names and telephone numbers of members of your club who will be in the group.
2) Car registration numbers.
3) Time of arrival.
4) Everyone will have to sign an indemnity form on arrival.

The gates are normally locked and the land-owner makes an arrangement with his employee to open for climbers at a pre-arranged time. DO NOT BE LATE BECAUSE THERE IS NO CELL PHONE SIGNAL AND YOU WILL PISS EVERYONE OFF IF THE GATE-KEEPER IS KEPT WAITING!

Camping is in the thorn trees by the cars, next to a usually dry dam. NO FIRES ALLOWED! THE LAND-OWNER CANNOT AFFORD A VELD FIRE HERE!

Finally, the land-owner requests: "Please respect our privacy as well as the environment."

The campsite is above the cliffs. It is a 15 to 20 minute easy walk down a dirt track to the base of the cliffs. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN THIS ROAD - YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET BUCK UP AGAIN!

The crags consist of an East and West Wing, split by a waterfall with a deep pool at the base.

South African Climbing Wiki

2010-11-04T10:44:06Z

Hector: /* Mpumalanga */

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
** [[Tafelberg]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[The Pup and Maltese Cross]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Rooiberg Nuwerust Rest Camp]]
**[[Krakadouw]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Towerkop]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]
*[[Thaba Nchu]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Magageni]]
*[[Wilgepoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]
*[[Manuotsa (JG Strydom Tunnel)]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]
*[[The Keg]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

Mhlabatini (trad)

2010-11-02T20:41:19Z

Hector: Created page with '= Access = This is also an MCSA owned kloof and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Parking is not on MCSA property but on a neighbour’s propert…'

= Access =
This is also an [[MCSA]] owned kloof and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Parking is not on [[MCSA]] property but on a neighbour’s property and a parking fee applies. An access an parking fee register is located at the parking. Contact the [[MCSA]] for more access details.

Visitors are not allowed to enter or leave the kloof after dark - allow enough time to get into and out of the kloof from the parking. There have been thefts from the standard parking spot. You MUST however contact the [[MCSA]] for the latest arrangements.

= Approach =
The walk in is uphill and moving through the kloof can be challenging at times (wading and scrambling required). A camp site is located at the entrance to the kloof. Note that it is not permissible to follow the river to gain access to the kloof as this are is located on private property.

= Routes/ Gradings =
A truly beautiful kloof famous for its many crack climbs. The 136 routes are mostly multi-pitch natural routes, grades vary from 5 to 27 with many at each grade above 15 until 25.

= Aspect =
With plenty of water and nice shade all day it is a very pleasant kloof all year round.

= Route Descriptions =

Starting upstream and working downstream:

* '''BACK FROM BEYOND 23 (H1) R ** [N]'''
The route is situated at the top of the kloof opposite where the tributary enters on the true left. Look for a finger crack which is undercut by a dassie ledge.
1. 15m H1 23 Climb up easily to a ledge left and under the dassie ledge. Pull into the finger crack which is undercut and continue up 3m to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1987 G Mallory, D Neetling and S Bradshaw.

* '''LEAPFROG 15 (F2) R [N]'''
The climb is located 70m downstream from the junction of Pool Gully with the main kloof, 20m above a large group of roots growing on a smooth brown face.
1. 18m F2 15 Start on a boulder, ascend 2m to a ledge, then climb diagonally to the left. Pull up to a small ledge ("Leapfrog" move) and climb into the bottom of a prominent cleft.
2. 18m D 6 Climb on ridge on left of the cleft.
3. 9m E1 8 Go back into recess and climb on righthand wall (optional pitch).
Note: The crux section of the first pitch may be avoided by using the roots referred to above, but this is not recommended as the roots have deteriorated in some places.
First Ascent: Date Unknown T Louw

* '''FOREVER YOUNG 25 (H2) R **** [N]'''
Start 3m right of Where Do You Think You Are Going, above the large boulder, but downstream of the obvious chimney cracks.
1. 25m H2 25 Climb up a few metres to steeper rock. Move right then make hard moves up to a good hold. Continue more or less straight up via the corners and small roofs above.
First Ascent: Dec 1985 K M Smith and A de Klerk.

* '''PINNACLE SOUTH 19 (G1) L ** [N]'''
Located at head of kloof, 20m upstream of Pinnacle North. (There is a similar leaning pinnacle against the face). Climb and scramble 30m to base of crack on righthand side of pinnacle.
1. 30m E3 11 In crack to top of pinnacle.
2. 10m G1 19 Ascend the bulging face above the pinnacle. The crux is the first 3m. Thereafter ascend an easy sloping ramp. (This pitch was originally opened using a shoulder for aid (15 F2))
Variation:
The G1 move can be bypassed by a semi-handtraverse left into a corner (13 F1). Continue left onto ledge and ascend flake 5m further left.
First Ascent: May 1969 R F Davies, I Cohen and D Smith

* '''PINNACLE DIRECT 17 (F3) L *** [N]'''
Start directly below prominent pinnacle near descent gully.
1. 20m F2 17 Ascend strenuous handjam crack to ceiling. Move out to right 2m and up 4m to top of gendarme.
2. 10m F2 15 Move right 3m into chimney, between gendarme and face and climb chimney 6m to top of pinnacle. Alternatively move diagonally left and ascend easy face. Step across to main face and ascend thin face to ledge. (Part of this pitch is shared with Pinnacle North).
3. 30m F3 17 Ascend 7m up thin ridge to sloping platform. Hand-traverse 6m to left and move up to long sloping ramp beneath low ceiling. Ascend ramp and continue past large chockstone to the summit. Alternatively, traverse left 10m to corner and climb strenuous chimney to gain the ramp.
Note: This climb is strenuous, having probably the longesthand-traverse in the Magaliesberg. Protection is good.
Direct finish: From halfway along the big hand-traverse, ascend direct to top (20 G2). 1985 G Mallory.
First Ascent: Feb 1975 M Prior, S, S & H van Rensburg and CSorour.

* '''PINNACLE NORTH 15 (F2) L ** [N]'''
Located near the head of the kloof at a split red buttress opposite a tree with 50cm diameter trunk growing off opposite (right) face of the kloof at a height of 3m. Scramble to wide ledge 10m up.
1. 30m E3 11 Climb in crack formed by a pinnacle leaning against the face to top of pinnacle. Near top move out left and ascend outside of pinnacle to top.
2. 6m F2 15 Up directly from pinnacle. Crux is first 2m. (Variation 10 E2: Traverse left then up a gully or crack to same stance).
3. 10m F1 13 Traverse right into recess with two cracks at back. Lefthand crack is the steeper (13 F1). Righthand crack is easier (10 E2).
First Ascent: 1970 R F Davies and I Cohen.

* '''FURPECT 15 (F2) L [N]'''
The climb starts on the face immediately downstream of Pinnacle North, avoids a fierce-looking jam crack and ends up a steep open book cum chimney.
1. 25m F2 15 Climb the steep face 2m right of the corner which is the start of Pinnacle North. Just below a small roof with a jam crack running through it, traverse left on to the route of Pinnacle North. Climb up till it is possible to traverse back right above the jam crack to a good ledge at the bottom of a big open book-cum-chimney.
2. 18m F1 13 Climb the chimney to the top and move out to the right. Scramble to the top.
Variation:
2. 20m F2 15 Climb the chimney to the first obvious handrail. Rail out right to the nose, move around it and climb a hand jam crack to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1982 J van Eeden and S Isebeck.

* '''ROUGH ROCK RECESS 9 (E1) L * [N]'''
Situated 3m right of Pinnacle North. Start by scrambling up 4m, at a point as high up the kloof as possible where the upper krantzes lie back in an upper bay. To the right of Pinnacle North is a crack or recess running straight up. (Grey, very rough rock.)
1. 13m E1 8 Climb 6m up to ledge with big nettle tree. Continue up recess 7m to good tree.
2. 10m E1 9 Climb up past narrow cubbyhole on awkward holds to big tree.
3. 15m D 7 Climb up through hole in roof and scramble to base of next pitch.
4. 10m E1 8 Climb narrow open book type of chimney, not the easy crack on the left, to good stance. (At this point, climb crosses Nettle Chimney.)
5. 14m D 7 Pass around to the right, under a corner which is of a higher grade, to next recess and climb over chockstones to good tree (10m). Finish by going right again into short chimney to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1978 S Junod, M and R Forsyth.

* '''NETTLE CHIMNEY 7 (D) L ** [N]'''
Start higher up the kloof, as for start of Pinnacle North.
1. 25m D 7 After scrambling up from the riverbed 10m move right past start of Rough Rock Recess, which climb is in recess, and climb grey rock to a good tree and up again to big nettle tree, 10m.
2. 20m D 7 Traverse to right and climb easy gully, thenscramble to large tree set in a corner far back from stream.
3. 30m D 7 Climb up for 4m and then move left 3m and climb round big rock blocks and up recess to big stance behind nettle tree.
4. 25m D 7 Move to crack as far left as possible and climb easy crack to top.
First Ascent: Aug 1945 J Plekke and K Ruhle

* '''FREEZEFRAME 20 (G2) L [N]'''
Climbs a thin crack up a face & past a tree approximately 30-40m upstream of DINKUM DIHEDRAL, between TREMADOC FEVER and NETTLE CHIMNEY.
1. 20 (G2) 20m Climb the crack moving leftwards towards the top.
First Ascent: 1990 S. Middlemiss & W. Jenkin

* '''TREMADOC FEVER 19 (G1) L ** [N]'''
The route takes the groove immediately to the left of Dinkum Dihedral. Start 4m left of the start of Dinkum Dihedral, behind a stamvrug tree.
1. 25m F3 17 Ascend diagonally right from behind the tree to gain the ledge below the dihedral taken by Dinkum Dihedral. Step up and left to gain the groove and follow this to below a V-notch in a small roof. Pull through the notch and belay on nettle tree stance.
2. 8m G1 19 Jam up the righthand crack, with difficulty near its top, until able to gain the loose-looking block in the off-width on the left. Follow the off-width rightwards to the top.
Note: Pitch 2 offers contrived but excellent climbing. The whole route is on clean rock.
First Ascent: May 1985 M Haffner and R Dodding.

* '''LOTTA BOTTLE 19 (G1) L *** [N]'''
Scramble up to the ledge from where the crux pitch of Dinkum Dihedral starts.
1. 15m G1 19 Climb the arete 3m to the left of Dinkum Dihedral, finishing through a gap in the roof and belay by a tree on the ledge. Protection is a little sparse but placing side runners will downgrade this route !
Finish up Dinkum Dihedral or abseil off.
First Ascent: May 1985 J Wright and S Brown.

* '''DINKUM DIHEDRAL 19 (G1) L [N]'''
Seen from the opposite side of the kloof, the true lefthand side of the kloof downstream from Pinnacle Direct steps back to form a wide bushy and tree-covered platform. The top pitch of Furpect takes the first obvious open book downstream from Pinnacle North. Next to this, another three vertical open books can be seen next to one another above the level of the trees. Dinkum Dihedral takes the extreme righthand one. Scramble up from the bottom of the kloof for about 20m to the base of the vertical rock. The climb starts in a steep recess with rough rock which is 5m to the right of another recess with a stamvrug tree at its bottom.
1. 12m F2 15 Climb the recess to a chockstone which blocks it at the top. Move out left past it onto a ledge.
2. 18m G1 19 On the righthand side of the ledge, there is a spectacular open book with a crack in its centre. After a tricky take-off move, climb the open book using stemming and hand-jamming techniques. About 5m up, move diagonally left and up, on the left hand face of the open book. Move back to the central crack again after about 1m of very thin face-climbing. Continue up on good finger-locks to a small ledge 1m under the triangular roof. Fist-jam through the horizontal crack in the roof to a resting place on the arete. Move up and left to a belay ledge with a nettle tree. (Note: This pitch offers superbly protected and sustained climbing.)
3. 10m F3 17 From the ledge, two cracks can be seen. Climb the righthand jam crack till it is possible to traverse left 2m into the off-width crack in the corner. Climb this awkwardly to the top.
First Ascent: Nov 1982 J van Eeden and S Isebeck.

* '''SHADOWPLAY 17 (F3) L ** [N]'''
Start at break 6m right of Dinkum Dihedral. Climb the crack (which becomes off-width) exiting right at large ledge.
1. 20m F3 17 Climb the red face to the base of the fine looking jam crack, climb this to tree belay.
First Ascent: Aug 1985 M Haffner and C Curson.

* '''PASSIVE RHYTHMS 19 (G1) L ** [N]'''
Starts 15m right of Shadowplay at a dihedral with a large capping roof.
1. 25m G1 19 Climb dihedral to roof, exiting left by underclinging and wide bridging to a small ledge. Climb directly up the buttress on crystalline rock to ledge and tree belay.
First Ascent: Aug 1985 M Haffner and C Curson.

* '''YAHOO 19 (G1) R ** [N]'''
The route follows a line about 5m upstream from WHERE DO YOU THINK YOURE GOING. It follows an obvious crack 5m right of the smooth face topped by an overhang.
1. 19 (G1) 25m Proceed up the crack with chimney technique until it becomes necessary to straddle. Move up a further 3m until it is possible to reach a good jug. Make three strenuous pull-ups to where the rock becomes vegetated and then handrail right 2m and exit with ease. Scramble to the top.
First Ascent: Feb 1985 Peter Lazarus

* '''WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU'RE GOING 23 (H1) R ** [N]'''
A large overhang (split by a gnarly crack) about 20m up is located on the left side of the kloof about 15m upstream of VARIETY. Start at the base of a large boulder next to the face.
1. 30m H1 23 Climb the slightly right-leaning crack bounding the upstream side of the large overhang.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 S Bradshaw and K M Smith.

* '''CANYONS OF OBLIVION 24 (H1) R **** [N]'''
The roof crack 50m upstream of Straight Edge Corner. Start a few metres downstream of Where Do You Think You're Going.
1. 20m G2 20 Climb the obvious recess until able to traverse right to a hanging belay beneath the crack.
2. 5m H1 24 Climb the crack.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 K M Smith and M Brunke.

* '''NO NETTLES 10 (E2) L * [N]'''
Start on grey face covered by tree roots opposite Variety.
1. 30m D 7 Traverse right past a sharp ridge to large ledge with trees.
2. 15m D 7 Climb straight up in corner on clean rock to tree and move to right onto large rock ledge with adequate block belay.
3. 15m E2 10 Move left from ledge and climb chimney above tree to top. Strenuous past overhanging section.
First Ascent: Dec 1978 R Forsyth and S van Rensburg

* '''VARIATION: NO NETTLES 14 (F1) L [N]'''
1. 25m D + 40m A. Start as for Nettle Chimney but move left on large ledge for 40m to the third recess.
2. 20m F1,M0 13 or F3 17 Make a difficult take-off on left side of recess. Move to right after 5m to sloping rib. (The leader used two slings on chocks to surmount this section of about 3m while one member of party climbed this by pulling up on a handjam). Continue up the recess and chimney and exit on left to top.
First Ascent: Dec 1978 S, H, S, D and P van Rensburg

* '''VARIETY 8 (E1) R ** [N]'''
The climb starts in a cave-like recess 5m below a group of roots on a brown face which are opposite a large tree growing in the kloof bed (about 30m upstream of Straight Edge).
1. 18m C 5 Climb up into cave. (This pitch may be slippery in places in wet season).
2. 12m E1 8 Climb face on left, working back into cleft and eventually chimneying up it.
3. 15m E1 8 Traverse out to left for 5m and climb up an exposed ridge, finally re-entering the cleft below a large cave.
4. 22m D 7 From the back of the large cave traverse outward and upward on the lefthand wall, finally ascending a rough grey face to a stance above the cave.
First Ascent: 1951 E Scholes, G Burrow and Miss E Lasser.

* '''YORKSHIRE 16 (F3) L * [N]'''
The start is about 20m upstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite (left) side of the kloof. To the left is a grey face festooned with roots. Take off from a ledge a little way up the face.
1. 10 (E2) 18m Ascend to a large ledge.
2. 16 (F3) 25m Continue to top up steep recess or crack on reddish rock (on right is a sharp ridge).
First Ascent: Jan 1950 P Harris, J Clayton

* '''LE BON GENERAL 17 (F3) L ** [N]'''
The climb starts only a metre or so to the right of Yorkshire, i.e. directly opposite Skeleton Gully.
1. 33m F3 17 Ascend thin handjam crack to ledge (12m). Traverse 5m to the right on ledge, then ascend strenuous handjam crack 12m to ledge.
2. 35m F2 15 Traverse diagonally 3m under righthand side of nose then up 3m and traverse back 3m and up 3m onto nose. Continue up ridge to cubbyhole.
3. 14m F2 15 Move up to right out of cubbyhole and make awkward move up to diagonal crack with creeper. Climbcrack 4m then move left onto ridge and continue to summit.
First Ascent: Date unknown M Prior and A Koster

* '''SKELETON GULLY 7 (D) R [N]'''
This climb follows a gully recess 15m up from Straight Edge Corner. After ascending the gully for 18m, bear generally right to end at the same point as Variety. It is also possible but more difficult to move out left higher up, along a traverse on the lefthand wall.
First Ascent: 1940 H Wong and K Ruhle

* '''CARDIFF ARMS 16 (F3) R [N]'''
Situated 4m downstream of Skeleton Gully. Start just to the right of a black water streak on a 4m wall, below a large crack.
1. 25m F2 16 Climb wall (awkward) to enter crack system, and proceed more easily upwards to large belay ledge below the buttress.
2. 12m E2 10 Climb front edge of buttress to ledge, then the crack in some loose blocks to another ledge. Move right to below short corner and up this on good holds to large ledge. Exit on left and scramble to top.
First Ascent: Nov 1981 N and R Cleaver.

* '''HOLLOW IDOLS 20 (G2) R ** [N]'''
This climb starts on the true righthand side between The Slit and Cardiff Arms. The latter route starts up a black water streak directly below a chimney/crack. Start approximately 1-2m left of this water streak.
1. 25m G2 20 Climb the blunt arete and continue up the face diagonally left for 5m. Above is an upstream-facing corner. Climb up the corner and continue up a vague groove above to a tree.
Either tear up the loose gully above, or ab off the excellent tree on the right.
First Ascent: May 1985 M Brunke, K Smith, S Bradshaw and AAshford-Jack.

* '''THE SLIT 19 (G1) R ** [N]'''
This climb is situated just to the right of The Slot, i.e. about 4m upstream of Cleft Buttress.
1. 25m G1 19 Climb straight up to the crack through the overhang. Jam up this, pass the trees on the right, and climb the continuation crack to a large grassy ledge. The crux is at 7m. Finish off as for The Slot.
First Ascent: Nov 1978 K M Smith and A J Smith

* '''THE SLOT 18 (G1) R ** [N]'''
This route starts and continues 1 to 2m upstream of Cleft Buttress, the crux being the overhanging section at 7m.
1. 25m G1 18 Climb straight up to the point where the crack cuts the overhang. Jam through, pass the trees on the left, and climb the continuation crack to a large ledge. From here one can scramble off, or climb the chimneys or buttresses above.
First Ascent: Nov 1978 K M Smith, A J Smith and C Rotteglia.

* '''CLEFT BUTTRESS 14 (F2) R * [N]'''
Start round the corner from Straight Edge Corner and about 3m upstream, directly below a prominent cleft in the buttress.
1. 16m F2 14 Climb the cleft via awkward mantleshelf-type move.
2. 16m E2 10 Continue easily to the top.
First Ascent: Date unknown C Nicholls.

* '''YOUNG WHIPPERSNAPPER 20 (G2) R ** [N]'''
Starts midway between STRAIGHT EDGE corner and CLEFT BUTTRESS and takes the crack and outside edge of the buttress above.
1. 20 (G2) 25m Ascend the layback crack just to the right of a tree growing against the cliff 2m out from the Straight Edge Crack to a ledge 5m up. Climb the off-width crack (left) to below an overhang and step left to a small ledge on the outside corner. Attain the ramp above delicately and layback through the steep section (crux). Climb more easily to a ledge and eye belay.
2. As for The Slot.
Variations:
1. 19 (G1) 25m From the sloping ramp move left around the corner and climb to the same stance on small positive holds.
Climb straight up from the top of the off-width crack, that is, do not step left onto the outside corner.
First Ascent: Nov 1982 E Haig, George Mallory, J Schoonees May 1985 Kevin M Smith, Steve Bradshaw, A Jack (Variation)

* '''CRYSTAL FIRE 23 (H1) R ***** [N]'''
Climbs directly up the righthand wall of Straight Edge Corner.
1. 20m H1 23 Climb up the centre of the wall, heading for the rhombohedral-block sticking out above.
Note: 1Two (pre-placed) fixed pitons provided additional protection at 5m and 15m.
2A good selection of medium wire nuts is useful e.g. doubles of sizes equivalent to Rocks 2 and 3.
First Ascent: Jan 1985 K M Smith, S Bradshaw and A de Klerk.

* '''STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER 15 (F2) R **** [N]'''
The climb starts in a sharp right-angled corner 150m below the junction of Pool Gully.
1. 12m F2 15 Layback or jam up the crack until a small cubbyhole is reached.
2 6m E2 10 Bear right above cubbyhole to a large ledge. (Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined).
3. 12m E1 9 Chimney up behind stance.
4. 12m E2 10 This is an arbitrary pitch up the centre of the red buttress straight above. It is necessary to climb out to the right to avoid an overhang at the top.
Variations:
a)The Slab Pitches 1 and 2. 30m F2 15 Climb the slab to the left more or less straight up to the big ledge. (C Lomax and D Cheesmond).
b)From the top of pitch 2 traverse left for 5m to a chimney/crack. Ascend this with awkward moves (8m F3 16). (M Makowski and party).
First Ascent: 1940 J Botha and H Wong

* '''QUICK SILVER 19 (G1) R *** [N]'''
Starts 3m left of Straight Edge Corner.
1. 20m G1 19 Climb the wall directly, following the obvious weakness to a steep band near the top. Traverse slightly and up to small roof. Move left around this and up to good belay.
First Ascent: Nov 1981 P Douglas, T Holt and C Mitchell.

* '''MONKEY WEE, MONKEY POO 18 (F3) R [N]'''
Start as for QUICK SILVER and at the overhanging section of wall hang left a go up the wide groove. It's a good route, easily top-roped too.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Mark Millar & Desiree Jones

* '''ORGASMATRON 20 (G2) R *** [N]'''
Takes the slab 8m downstream of Straight Edge, similar climbing to that on Quick Silver.
Start directly below the slab which is dissected by horizontal rails. Step off a boulder to start.
1. 25m G2 20 Ascend the slab directly without reference to either of the bounding vertical crack systems. Crux at overlap, at 8m. Move slightly right to the base of the crack system in the headwall. Follow this system for 3m and finish by moving right into a small corner.
First Ascent: May 1986 R Dodding, T Willmot and M Lancaster.

* '''DEE CRACK 19 (G1) L ** [N]'''
About 10m upstream from Bored Games (i.e. just left of the recess).
1. 30m G1 19 Climb the overhanging jam-crack to broken ground.
First Ascent: 1979 C Lomax and D Cheesmond

* '''PANGAMAN VIBRATION 19 (G1) L [N]'''
Takes the obvious corner just left of Ego Whip.
1. 20m G1 19 Climb the corner/recess directly.
First Ascent: May 1985 M Haffner.

* '''EGOWHIP 23 (H1) L **** [N,1B,P]'''
Climbs a very narrow dihedral running up the right wall of the prominent corner between Dee Crack and Bored Games. (Right of Pangaman Vibration.)
1. 20m H1 23 Scramble onto a ledge and pull-up into the base of the dihedral. Climb up to the top of the dihedral, exit right, and continue up on sparse holds to easy ground and a large tree.
Note: Bolt protects crux.
First Ascent: Circa 1983 T Holt (after top rope practice).

* '''BORED GAMES 22 (G3) L *** [N]'''
Also called by its old name, Malabalaba.A clean hard pitch, similar to Schweesicles. The line followed is a crack on the opposite side of the kloof and 5m upstream from Straight Edge.
1. 40m G3 22 From stream bed gain a large handhold on the left. Pull up into the recess, pass a dying tree to the right and continue up the crack right up to the large ledge.
(Originally called Malabalaba (17 F3,M1), an African game like draughts played with bottle tops.)
First Ascent: Sep 1977 G Moseley and A Dick. Dec 1984 FFA K M Smith and G Mallory.

* '''THE APPRENTICE CRACK 25 (H2) L **** [N]'''
The obvious thin crack up the face about 2m right of Bored Games.
1. 10m H2 25 Climb the crack to a gnarled tree.
Either abseil back down or continue up easy rock to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1985 A de Klerk and K M Smith

* '''JULUKA 20 (G2) L *** [N]'''
The climb goes up the slight buttress and shallow recess above, which lies between Bored Games and Cee Crack. Start at the top of the large boulder alongside the face.
1. 30m G2 20 It is advisable to protect the first 10m of the climb by placing a sling high up in the tree leaning across the kloof from just downstream of the apex of the block above. Layback very strenuously up a thin crack to get your hands onto the ledge above. Get onto this ledge by traversing left strenuously to a better handrail and then swinging the feet up. Traverse delicately back right in a very off-balance position to where a handhold can be reached allowing one to step right into a small bottomless recess and up to a resting place on a ledge above (place for a small stance). Climb the shallow recess above to the large ledge above. Halfway up is a difficult move (19 G1) involving a brief move onto the left arete. (In the openingascent, the leader held onto a nut to swing onto the left arete which reduced the grade to 17 F3.)
2. 20m F2 15 Walk about 5m right and climb the face and pillar above just to the right of the prominent arete. Continue up on the righthand side of the arete, finishing up with a strenuous move (15 F2) near the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1982 J Levy and P Fatti.

* '''CEE CRACK 17 (F3) L ** [N]'''
The crack between Jelly Beans and Bored Games opposite Straight Edge.
1. 30m F3 17 Climb jam-crack to broken ground.
First Ascent: 1979 C Lomax and D Cheesmond

* '''JELLY BEANS 16 (F3) L *** [N]'''
This route is 5m below Straight Edge on opposite side. Start to left of small cave.
1. 25m F3 16 Climb up slightly sloping face about 8m to apex of triangle and fixed piton. Jam up crack in open book for about 3m until feet are at level of good thin crack on right face. Step across to top ledge on left. Move to lefthand end of ledge. Climb up crack and face to extensive grassy ledge. Walk 5m left to large tree on wide flattish rock ledge.
2. 18m F1 13 Ascend grey and orange slab directly behind tree to top.
First Ascent: 1965 J Anderson and P Venter

* '''VARIATION : JELLY BEANS DIRECT 18 (G1) L **** [N]'''
1. 23m G1 18 Climb up slightly sloping face for about 8m (13 F1) to apex of triangle and fixed piton. Jam up crack in open book for about 3m until feet are at level of good thin crack on right face (17 F3). Instead of stepping across to top ledge on left (as for Jelly Beans), continuestraight up open book on good jam holds to the small obvious roof (17 F3). Pull through roof to stance (18 G1).
First Ascent: Jun 1979 C Edelstein, D K Luyt and M Mears

* '''GELIGNITE 22 (G3) L [N]'''
Between Jellybeans and Schweesicles on the same side of the kloof. Start as for Jellybeans.
1. 25m G3 22 Up crack until handrail is reached.Right along rail to arete. Step up and continue up corner until next rail. Back left to finger crack. Up crack to top.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 A J Smith, P Douglas and B O'Meara.

* '''SCHWEESICLES 19 (G1) L *** [N]'''
Starts at small deep cave opposite big tree, 8m below Straight Edge on opposite side of kloof.
1. 12m G1 19 Move up as high as possible in cave. Move out left under overhanging roof of cave and into shallow recess. Ascend recess 9m past good tree (running belay) to good ledge and tree belay.
2. 25m F1 14 Continue directly upwards (2m to right of chimney recess with two trees) on coarse grained rock to top (12m up is a tree).
First Ascent: Mar 1966 M Makowski, J Anderson and I McLachlan.

* '''SHADOW OF DOUBT 21 (G2) L *** [N]'''
Climbs the thin crack and continuation corner 2m right of Schweesicles and Naughty Monkey takes the left-facing open book 1m further right.
1. 20m G2 21 Climb the thin crack, past a roof on the right, to reach a ledge. Continue up the blank looking open book above, and exit right onto easier ground.
Note: No use is made of any tree.
First Ascent: Sept 1985 K M Smith, M Haffner and C Edelstein.

* '''NAUGHTY MONKEY 20/21 (G1) L ** [N]'''
Start about 3m to the right of SCHWEESICLES at the base of a tree. Same start as for SHADOW OF DOUBT.
1. 19 (G1) 20m Climb into the righthand of the two cracks and into a shallow corner higher up. Pull over two bulges and up onto a ledge.
2. 19 (G1) 15m Move up the rippled corner directly above until able to move left onto the arete about halfway up. Continue up to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1985 A de Klerk (solo).

* '''THE CUNNING LINGUIST 17 (F3) L [N]'''
Starts 2m left of lone tree on embayment - see Satyriasis Strut and Oedipus Wrecks.
1. 20m F3 17 Climbs broken corner crack system at left end of embayment.
First Ascent: Sept 1985 M Haffner (Roped solo).

* '''OEDIPUS WRECKS 21 (G2) L *** [N]'''
First pitch takes face left of Satyriasis Strut.
1. 10m G3 21 Start 2m right of the lone tree on the embayment ledge. Climb thin seam past one rail and at next rail step left (no naughty stepping right to tree), and then climb face in the line of the very thin seam to large ledge.
2. 10m G1 19 Climb the poorly protected, slim, open groove.
First Ascent: Sept 1985 M Haffner and K Smith.

* '''SATYRIASIS STRUT 18 (G1) L *** [N]'''
Between Naughty Monkey and Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained is an embayment with large ledge (which is scrambled up to).
1. 20m G1 18 Climb obvious jam crack at right hand end of bay to ledge with tree. Step left and climb the cracked slabby face (crux).
First Ascent: Aug 1985 M Haffner.

* '''PIGMY FACE 19 (G1) L [N]'''
Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its righthand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of Straight Edge on the opposite side of the kloof.
1. 20m G1,M1 19 Commence in the left of the recess. Move up the small recess for 1,5m and traverse right via a hand and foot rail to another recess formed by the wall and the right hand slabbed wall (5m 17 F3). Ascend recess partially for 3m and move out left onto the face. Continue up to a ledge 2m up (3m 17 F3). Move across right retaining wall (2 pitons,M1). Continue a further 2m on small fingerholds to the corner and around to a ledge (19 G1). Continue up a recess and a small chimney to a broad ledge (8m 15 F2).
2. 30m C,D,E 7 Scramble to top.
Note: Pitch 1 is sustained but well protected.
* '''Variation:'''
The 19 G1, M1 traverse may be avoided by a spectacular hand-traverse on the footrail.
First Ascent: 1967 M Makowski, I McLachlan, T Lane and A Carmen.

* '''ME PIGFACE 19 (G1,M0) L ** [N]'''
Same start as for Pigmy Face. Whereas Pigmy Face traverses right after about 5m up the lefthand corner, this climb continues up the corner to the overhang before traversing right.
1. 25m G1,M0 19 Climb the recess to the overhang. Crux move (19 G1) shortly below the overhang. Traverse right along the obvious handrail, standing in a sling or a"Friend" about halfway across, to a small tree in the righthand corner. Climb up the tricky face just to the right of the corner to a large stance.
2. 12m E2 10 Climb up to the large ledge from where one can scramble to the top.
First Ascent: Mar 1982 P Fatti and G Moseley. Oct 1985 FFA G Mallory.

* '''NOTHING VENTURED, NOTHING GAINED 22 (G3) L **** [N]'''
This route takes the direct continuation of Me Pigface. From the traverse of Me Pigface continue straight up the open book through the roof to the ledge with a tree.
First Ascent: Jul 1984 A Jardin and S Bradshaw.

* '''VORTEX 21 (G2) L **** [N]'''
Start 4m downstream of ME PIGFACE i.e 24m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE beneath a 1m roof with a crack running through it.
1. ?m G2 21 Climb up to beneath the overhang and jam out to the lip. Reach strenuously for distant jugs and pull through (crux). Continue up for 1m to a rail and traverse right for 3m on excellent jams to a ledge. Climb up easier rock to big ledge.
Scramble off to the right.
First Ascent: Sep 1983 S Mallory and G Mallory.

* '''WISH YOU WERE HERE 25 (H2) L *** [N]'''
Climbs the steep corner/crack up the middle of the overhanging band of rock downstream of VORTEX, i.e. upstream of the sandy pool-bed above MHLABATINI CHIMNEY (opposite and slightly downstream of INVALID).
1. 25 (H2) 15m Climb the corner and continuation crack.
First Ascent: May 1985 S Bradshaw and K M Smith.

* '''DIRE STRAITS 24 (H1+) L **** [N]'''
Climbs the crack 4m downstream (right) of Wish You Were Here.
1. 10m H1+ 24 Climb the crack and chimney.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 K M Smith and S Bradshaw.

* '''JUXTAPOSITION 23 (H1) L **** [N]'''
The route starts 2m to the right (i.e. downstream) of Dire Straits, on the same side of the kloof.
1. 20m H1 23 Climb the crack exiting through the obvious break in the roof above. Scramble easily to the top.
Note: 1A few small nuts (micros) are useful as protection.
2Hoping not to sound like one C E (alias S) tall people may find the grade only 21 !!
First Ascent: May 1987 P Lazarus.

* '''THE CANNON 15 (F2) R ** [N]'''
The climb is located by two distinctive features jutting out from the top of the kloof like twin cannon, about 30m below Straight Edge Corner. Start at a tree about 10m below Straight Edge, where the floor of the kloof takes a drop.
1. 18m E3 11 Ascend a grey slab and traverse left to a tree, the roots of which can be used as a belay.
2. 5m D 7 Traverse downstream to the lower end of the grey slab, passing below the "cannon" to a stance with two trees.
3. 5m F2 15 Ascend a small nose on thin holds to a ledge under the "cannon".
4. 9m E1 8 Climb red face to the right of the "cannon".
First Ascent: Nov 1956 R Cameron

* '''DIRECT VARIATION 15 (F2) [N]'''
Start about 5m upstream from Invalid and near the downstream end of a buttress.
1. 25m E3 11 Start up a slight recess and climb generally diagonally rightwards to where it is possible to move easily through the overhangs. Then climb diagonally left to finally gain a large ledge at the downstream end of the buttress.
2. 15m F2 15 Traverse about 3m left and then up a small arete. Continue directly up the face above past a piton in place to gain a large ledge.
3. 9m E1 8 The same as the last pitch on The Cannon. Climb the red face to the right of the "cannon".
First Ascent: Feb 1975 A McGarr and party

* '''BURST BREECH 17 (F3) R ** [N]'''
The route follows a vertical line starting on the right side of the corner immediately upstream of Invalid. The start is on a shelf 4m above the stream bed. The line continues through the crux move of The Cannon and through the overhangs 6m to the left of The Cannon rocks.
1. 30m F1 13 Traverse diagonally right 5m, up over a bulge and left over a sloping ramp to a point above the starting tree belay. Climb diagonally left over a delicate balance mantleshelf and around a corner then up to a broad shelf and tree belay. (Long runners should be used to reduce rope-drag problems).
2. 40m F2 15 At the right end of the shelf climb up and around the corner onto an exposed face following the crack line to the Cannon crux pitch. This move is protected by a fixed piton. Climb this section in common with Cannon. The stance is at the foot of the square cut recess above and in line with this difficulty.
3. 20m F3 17 Climb 3m up the recess, move out to the left to avoid the bulge and re-enter the recess about 9m up using a few excellent handholds and finally a handjam. Using straddle and hand-jamming techniques enter a "blind" cubbyhole (crux). (Excellent large taper nut crack available in the sloping floor of the cubbyhole). Leave therecess by taking a spectacular breech-rending step to the left and mounting the remaining vertical exposed rock over reasonably good holds.
Note: Variations may be climbed over the first 4m by moving left and up over very vertical and strenuous rock (15 F2 to 17 F3) or finishing up between the "cannons".
First Ascent: Mar 1977 H Seuring, J Brittain and K Bennetts.

* '''BURST BALLS 17 (F3) R ** [N]'''
The climb is situated on the downstream end of the buttress on which Cannon and Burst Breech are found (hence climbs name). The line is an obvious, direct crack and corner system and takes in the crux (15 F2) section of The Cannon. Climb commences in a chimney 1m upstream of a large tree growing on a ledge 6m above kloof floor.
1. 40m F3 17 Scramble up chimney and past abovementioned tree and break through overhanging roof with jam-
crack (crux). Continue directly above through corner and recess, past peg and through the crux of The Cannon, to a large grassy ledge. (Can ascend one of the upper pitches described for The Cannon from here).
First Ascent: Oct 1984 T O'Connor, L Chambers and T Holt.

* '''INVALID 13 (F1) R * [N]''''
The climb is located about 15m upstream from the pool which spans the kloof near Mhlabatini Chimney. A small crack offers the only route on a near vertical smooth grey face which ends in an open book a few metres to the left of the crack.
1. 28m F1 13 Using the crack climb 15m to tree sling point in small recess. Continue 9m up left wall of recess and scramble 8m over large sloping ledge to foot of chimney above the recess just climbed.
2. 12m F1 13 Climb through the first overhang to roof of second overhang. Climb out via face on left (rock is not too sound at this point).
First Ascent: Oct 1958 W Wieder, Miss M Armstrong and R Kinsley.

* '''INVALID : ALTERNATIVE FINAL PITCH 16 (F2) R [N]'''
The pitch follows an obvious line up the grey face immediately above the top of pitch 1.
2. 20m F2 Start in a corner where the grey face meets the steep red face about 2 metres downstream from the top of the recess/chimney just climbed. Move easily to a small overhang at about 7 metres and pull through on the righthand side (crux). Bear right above the overhang and to the summit on granulated grey rock via the line of least resistance.
First Ascent: Jun 1987 G Muyburgh and party.

* '''CARRION 21 (G2) R ** [N]'''
The route takes a line up the centre of the face immediately upstream of Hawk's Nose or Soul Crusher. Climb Invalid's first pitch to gain the large ledge below face.
1. 25m G2 21 Starting in a small corner below a roof which extends leftwards, Climb the face to a small ledge. The face becomes steeper at this point. Gain a rail 2m above, move left 2m and pull through the grey bulge to finish.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 G Mallory (leader). Vultures A Smith, S Mallory, K Smith, S Bradshaw, A Jack.

* '''FALSE INVALID 15 (F2) R * [N]'''
Start from the same point as Invalid.
1. 18m F1 13 Climb vertical crack about 1m left of the prominent corner to a large ledge to the right of the crack.
2. 30m F2 15 Follow the obvious line of weakness above ledge directly above the crack of pitch 1 strenuously for about 3m on thin holds. Then scramble for about 15m to the base of a chimney and then to the top via the chimney.
First Ascent: 1975 A McGarr and C Gillet(Pitch 1) A McGarr and G Klein(Pitch 2)

* '''THE HAWK'S NOSE 19 (G1,M1) R ** [N]'''
The climb starts amongst the trees about 15m upstream of Temptation Crack (i.e. about 4m above the pool).
1. 18m F2 15 Climb the wall near a tree (growing about 1m away from the face) for about 6m. Traverse left on a foot ledge for 5m. Climb a small recess to a ledge.
2. 15m F2,M2 15 Traverse right and up to a sloping ledge on a nose below an overhang with a protruding righthand wall. Aid up the crack in the middle and then move right and up to a large ledge.
3. 20m G1,M1 19 Climb the lefthand recess to the roof, traverse left until it is possible to reach out and place a nut in the flared chimney. Using this, gain access to the chimney and climb to the top. (The chimney portion of this pitch has also been aided - 3 pegs 17 F3,M2).
* '''Variation:'''
2. 18m F3 17 Climb diagonally left and then back right to same ledge as original pitch.
First Ascent: 78/79 variously C Ward, C Baker, H Vogl, D Cheesmond and B Gross.

* '''TAIL OF A BRAVE DOG 20 (G2) R **** [N]'''
This takes a line up on the downstream edge of the Soulcrusher/Hawks Nose buttress. Scramble up to belay at a thin tree in the original Temptation Crack.
1. 15m G1 19 Climb a few metres up Temptation Crack, traverse about 5m right under the roof until one can breakthrough onto a face. Climb up to ledge shared with Soulcrusher.
2. 5m G2 20 Climb the small downstream facing dihedral 3m left of Soulcrusher, exiting right near the top. Climb to the ledge above and belay below the dihedral on the left edge of the buttress.
3. 15m G1 19 Climb the dihedral, exiting right to belay in a spectacular position.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 C Edelstein, C Curson, K Smith and A Smith.

* '''SOULCRUSHER 23 (H1) R *** [N]'''
The feature of the route is the short, impressive, downstream-facing dihedral about 20m above the sandy pool-
bed spanning the kloof above Mhlabatini Chimney. Start 3m right of Temptation Crack.
1. 20m F2 15 Climb up past the right side of a large overhang at 10m and continue up a crack. Traverse left to a ledge situated below and to the left of the dihedral.
2. 15m H1 23 Climb the dihedral.
3. 15m G2 20 Climb the bottomless off-width crack/ chimney above.
* '''Note:''' Soulcrusher partly follows the line of the old aid route The Hawk's Nose.
First Ascent: Jan 1985 K M Smith and A de Klerk.

* '''TEMPTATION CRACK 19 (G1) R ** [N]'''
The climb starts at the upstream of the pool which spans the kloof near Mhlabatini Chimney.
1. 14m F2 15 Climb through small overhang into the open book above the pool and continue up to a small tree belay point.
2. 25m F2 15 Climb up face to left of small gully out on to nose under overhang.
3. 5m F2 15 Using a shoulder take-off, break through overhang on the left to reach foot of inverted V-crack. (19 G1 if shoulder not taken).
4. 15m G1 19 A very strenuous chimney leads to the top.
Pitch 4 may be avoided as follows:
4a 15m E3 11 Traverse from foot of inverted V-crack downstream around corner to overlook Mhlabatini Chimney. Climb crack on the right and out to reach gully.
* '''Note:''' Pitch 3 may be avoided by turning left, then up and traversing back right to foot of inverted V-crack (13 F1).
First Ascent: Jun 1960 W Wieder, R Kinsley and A Burger.

* '''VARIATION: TEMPTATION CRACK DIRECT 20 (G2) R ** [N]'''
Start directly below the top chimney of Temptation Crack.
1. 30m G2 20 Climb up to the very square roof about 8m up. Climb straight through. Continue to ledge.
2. 40m G1 19 Climb the crack directly behind through a small roof to the base of the Temptation Crack Chimney. From here straight up to top, as per the original route.
First Ascent: 1979 C Lomax and D Cheesmond Oct 1985 C Curson and S Brown (Pitch 1 without aid of tree root.)

* '''SHIELD OF ACHILLES 21 (G2) R ** [N]'''
An eliminate between the first pitches of Temptation Crack and Temptation Crack Direct. Start midway between these two routes.
1. 20m G2 21 Climb straight up through the small roofs to a ledge.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 K M Smith, G Mallory, C Curson, and C Edelstein.

* '''TALES OF BRAVE ULYSSES 21 (G2+) R ***** [N]'''
Start between Mhlabatini Chimney and Temptation Crack Direct, beneath an obvious crack and white root, thicker than a man's wrist.
1. 25m G2 20 Climb the crack to where it steepens. Move left and continue on good holds to easier rock which is followed to a ledge. Directly above looms a short butsteep orange-streaked wall, left of Temptation Crack Direct's pitch.
2. 12m G2+ 21 Climb the centre of the wall to a rail and pull straight through the overhang above. Stance below the left bounding buttress of Temptation's final chimney.
3. 18m G1 19 Climb the vague red recess up the left side of the buttress to the top of a short fist crack. Traverse scarily right to the undercut arete and climb this to the summit.
First Ascent: May 1985 K M Smith, S Bradshaw, M Brunke and AAshford-Jack.

* '''ELIXIR 18 (G1) R *** [N]'''
The climb starts in MHLABATINI CHIMNEY at the shallow cave in the upstream face (second stance for that climb) and ascends the upstream face of the chimney for the first pitch, and the downstream face for the second pitch.
1. 18 (F3) 25m Climb up right to gain the block (3m), step left, and ascend the wall, passing to the right of the flake. Exit right to a large ledge and then climb up to the top belay stance for MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.
2. 18 (G1) 15m On the downstream face gain the vertical crack directly (delicate), jam up the crack to the top.
* '''Note:''' Aid was used on the second pitch for the first ascent.
First Ascent: Sept 1985 First pitch P S Greenfield & G Graafland. Sept 1985 Second pitch P S Greenfield & S Middlemiss. Oct 1985 FFA M Brunke, R Dodding and N Margetts.

* '''MHLABATINI CHIMNEY 13 (F1) R *** [N]'''
Climb commences immediately below the first large pool stretching right across the kloof. A small spring of water enters the kloof at the bottom of the chimney.
1. 12m C 5 Ascend up bed of the spring to the foot of a chimney.
2. 22m F1 13 A broad chimney is climbed, past two steps to a chockstone.
3. 15m F1 13 Climb behind chockstone and traverse outwards for 6m climbing out into the open through a small hole in the roof of the chimney.
4. 9m E1 8 Climb a face, alternatively a recess, on the righthand wall.
First Ascent: Oct 1940 H Wong and M Gaze.

* '''REASON RUN DRY 25 (H2) R [N,R]'''
Climbs the steep wall on the downstream side of the upper portion of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.
1. 25,R 30m Climb the wall passing a few pieces of fixed gear.
First Ascent: 1998/9 Stefan Isabek & Derie van Eeden

* '''TRIVIAL PURSUITS 15 (F2) L [N]'''
Opposite to and just upstream of Mhlabatini Chimney.
1. 10m F2 15 Climb the off-white downstream facing open book.
First Ascent: Feb 1986 M Smith, M Brunke, K M Smith and SMBradshaw.

* '''OBSCURED BY CLOUDS 20 (G2) L [N]'''
Well, by trees actually.
The start is 5m upstream of Unknown Pleasures in an openbook with a crack in it which widens to fist-jam size.
1. 15m F3 18 Climb the crack to a ledge. Move back along the ledge to an easy crack on the right at a big inset. Move up the crack to end on the ledge with a large tree.
2. 20m G2 20 To the left is a big red block. Start on the block (beacon) move up an overhanging groove to easy ground. Above is a red wall with a thin crack to start. Climb up and move left to exit on a small ledge.
Second pitch cleaned on abseil as second could not follow.
First Ascent: Good Friday 1987 B Roux and L Tonin (Pitch 1 only).

* '''UNKNOWN PLEASURES 21 (G2+) L *** [N]'''
Takes the obvious breaks up the buttress just upstream of Zenith Ridge.
1. 25m G2+ 21 Ascend the shallow corner until able to pull onto easier ground above. Move slightly right and then climb diagonally left to the base of the obvious finger-crack. Follow this to a stance with tree.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 M Haffner, G Mallory, R Dodding and C Lomax.

* '''HEDONISTIC HEIGHTS 22 (G3) L ** [N]'''
Takes the crack line between The File and Unknown Pleasures. A long pitch giving surprisingly good climbing. Starts midway between the two above-mentioned routes.
1. 35m G3 22 Climb ledges to base of chimney/gully and then step left to gain the crack. Hard moves (protected by 2 pegs) to gain large layback flake, and then to small cubby. Awkward moves leaving this and then continue more easily following crack/groove line to tree belay.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 M Haffner

* '''ZENITH RIDGE 15 (F2) L ** [N]'''
The climb is opposite and slightly downstream of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. It starts in a deep open book closed at the top. Scramble about 6m from stream bed and start on blocks (small tree).
1. 15 (F2) 9m Up into open book and over obvious chockstone.
2. 15 (F2) 8m Start with a semi-hand traverse to the right. Continue traverse over a poised block which rocks when touched, into deep recess with white roof.
3. 15 (F2) 22m Traverse right starting across small sloping ramp. Ascend steep broken ridge. Two overhangs must be negotiated. The first overhang is just above the traverse (stomach move). The second is from a small alcove. Straddle up until a good grip high in the back of the crack can be reached. Pull up and out to the right. The pitch then eases off but is still steep. Stance on big ledge.
Variation:
3. 13 (F1) Instead of traversing right, go up recess and higher up move right to join original pitch.
4. 10 (E2) 28m Climb the red face to the left, i.e. the downstream side of the buttress above the start of theclimb. Go out onto crest of the ridge at one point. First class rock.
First Ascent: Mar 1966 RF Davies, Paul Fatti, D Cretchley

* '''THE FILE 22 (G3) L [N]'''
Ascends the flake crack 4m left of Rasp.
1. 25m G3 22 Fingery laybacking to slight break. Move right to shake-out rest at keyed-in block. Layback flared crack above to the Rasp stance.
First Ascent: May 1985 M Haffner

* '''RASP 21 (G2) L ** [N]'''
Start 3m downstream of Mhlabatini Chimney on the true left side of the kloof.
1. 25m G2 21 Climb easily up to a large ledge. Continue up a jamb-crack in a downstream facing corner. At the top of the corner the going gets tough. Continue up a layback crack to a common stance with Zenith Ridge.
2. 25m F3 17 Climb up the chimney. Move right then up to a stance.
First Ascent: 1979 D Cheesmond and party.

* '''BULLIT 21 (G2+) R **** [N]'''
The climb goes straight up the buttress on the downstream side of Mhlabatini Chimney. It takes a line completely independent from Delicacy. Start at the foot of a shallow recess, near the lefthand side of the buttress and 10m below a small overhang.
1. 35m G1 19 Climb up the recess until below the overhang, where a piton can be placed for protection. Stretch up to a hold above the overhang and move up diagonallyright through the overhang on small holds (hard). Continue up to a ledge below the next overhang. Traverse right along this and then move up on the corner via an awkward mantleshelf. Continue up for about 3m until level with a ledge on the arete above the overhang. Traverse left with difficulty on polished holds to a stance on this ledge. (Nut runner belays). Alternatively, traverse left beneath overhang to arete then pull up and mantleshelf onto belay ledge.
2. 15m F3 18 Traverse left for a few metres and then up to the foot of a prominent open book. Climb up this (strenuous) and exit on the ledge to the left. Climb up the righthand wall to a large stance with block belays.
3. 25m G2+ 19 Climb straight up the recess above the stance for 8m to where a small nut runner can be placed. Lean across right and clip into a piton (in place). Move across right (1 peg and 1 small nut) before pulling up on to an exposed, cramped ledge below a short overhanging wall. From the righthand side of the cramped ledge climb directly up into a small recess and continue right around the corner to a ledge and resting place. Climb easily up the broken recess above to the top.
First Ascent: Oct 1969 L P Fatti, J M Anderson and M Cramphorn.(Pitches 1&2) Jan 1971 L P Fatti & A McGarr.(Pitch 3) 1979 FFA C Edelstein.

* '''THE BAT AND THE WICKED 23 (H1) R ** [N]'''
The roof crack bounding the downstream side of the top of the Bullit buttress. Scramble and climb to the highest ledge on the buttress i.e. the ledge from which Bullit's final pitch starts.
1. 20m H1 23 Climb up easily leftwards to the corner-crack leading to the roof. Trickily up this crack, then out right along the roof crack to the lip.
First Ascent: Apr 1986 K M Smith and S M Bradshaw.

* '''DELICACY 16 (F3) R ** [N]'''
The climb starts about 12m downstream from Mhlabatini Chimney.
1. 18m D 7 Climb 12m up open book before traversing 9m upstream into recess. Scramble up recess to belay point in crack below platform on right. This platform is on the downstream side of the lefthand buttress of Mhlabatini Chimney.
2. 12m F3 16 Climb 3m up crack to platform. From here climb a further 3m to ledge at foot of open book to right of which and 5m above is a second platform which is reached by climbing the corner on the left and stepping right (strenuous).
3. 12m F2 15 Climb out and up to right about 3m into open book which is usedto reach small but prominent nose 8m above on the right wall. This in turn permits movement around corner where face is climbed 3m to ledge.
4 5m F1 13 Traverse 5m into gully. This point is also the end of Mhlabatini Chimney climb.
First Ascent: Oct 1958 R Kinsley, W Wieder, S Perry and Miss M Armstrong FFA 1978K M Smith.

* '''VARIATION : DELICACY A LA MODE 15 (F2) **** [N]'''
The climb DELICACY normally finishes by traversing rather disappointingly into the gully which is the top of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. This variation makes an exciting finish by going out onto the buttress above this traverse level. It is thought to be among the more exciting pitches in the Magaliesberg.
4. 30m F2 15 From the stance before the traverse mentioned, go up in the corner above on an undercut layback. Then traverse left onto the outside of the very exposed buttress on good jugs and straight to the top.
First Ascent: Date unknown P Dawson and P Norton

* '''ELITE STREET 23 (H1) L ** [N]'''
This climb is situated directly opposite the huge rotten recess which separates the Bullit and Spacewalk buttresses. Scramble up a few metres to a ledge. Start about 6m downstream of Rasp. A pentagonal roof lurks 12m above.
1. 20m H1 23 Climb a thin crack to an incipient block. Gain the base of the flared recess with difficulty and climb up to the roof. Exit left and climb more easily to beneath an overhang cut by an off-width crack.
2. 10m G3 22 Climb the crack.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 K M Smith and S Bradshaw.

* '''BOULEVARD OF BROKEN DREAMS 26 (H3) L ***** [N]'''
A superb though contrived variation to Glory Road giving very hard climbing.
1. 25m H3 26 Start up Glory Road. Climb crux of that route to the base of the flake. Follow the left hand crack exclusively to the top flake. Continue rightwards to the tree.
Note: The right hand crack in the flake was not used at all. Using the right hand crack will make the route easier. (Glory Road uses the righthand crack).
First Ascent: Jul 1986 S Bradshaw.

* '''GLORY ROAD 25 (H2) L *** [N]'''
Climbs the crack 2.5m right of Elite Street (and therefore 9m downstream of Rasp).
Scramble up to a ledge and traverse right to the base of the crack.
1. 25m H2 25 Climb the crack past a mega hold to the base of a "shield". Continue up the right side of the shield to a ledge, move left, and climb more easily to the top.
First Ascent: Aug 1985 S Bradshaw and K M Smith.

* '''MARKWELL 15 (F2) R ** [N]'''
The climb has a common start with Space Walk.
1. 20m F1 13 Refer Space Walk.
2. 15m F2 15 Climb as for Space Walk up a rubble-filled crack. 8m below the overhang move diagonally left to a piton stance.
3. 6m F2 15 Move left in steps to a small ripple-marked ledge.
4. 18m D 7 Move left into recess to top of buttress.
First Ascent: 1966 P Fatti, D Cretchley, D Wildman, C Fatti and IMcLarty

* '''SPACE WALK 21 (G2+) L **** [N]'''
This route takes the next buttress downstream of Bullit, i.e. the buttress with the largest red overhang on top and the large rotten recess to the right. Start in the middle
front of the buttress.
1. 20m F1 13 Scramble up to a convenient belay ledge.
2. 30m G1 19 Climb the main break, fairly easily at first and the with difficulty. Move right into the undercut jam crack at the overhang, and through to a good belay ledge below the top roofs.
3. 25m G2+ 21 Climb out easily to left onto a thin crawling ledge. Wriggle out until able to flop out into a handrail position. Traverse left until able to pull through the roofs on small holds. Continue straight up through to the top.
Note: The climb has a common start with Markwell.
First Ascent: 1979 C Lomax and D Cheesmond

* '''GOOD DOG 20 (G2) R ***** [N]'''
Start about 10m downstream of Space Walk. Scramble easily up a grey slab to a ledge and belay around a large tree which is 3 metres downstream of a corner.
1. 25m G1 19 Climb delicately up a smooth face to a large square roof. At the roof move right onto a rail which has some large blocks on it. Move back onto the original lineand continue up to stance on a polished sloping ledge in a corner.
2. 20m G1 19 Up the corner for 2m then move right and up. Traverse easily to a stance common with Space Walk.
3. 15m G2 20 From the ledge move up onto a triangular block. Reach high for a jug and traverse left to a stance on the top.
Note: Opened without aid, falls or pre-abseiling. For its grade, a spectacular and mind-shattering climb. A bold lead.
First Ascent: Oct 1983 Charles Edelstein, A Lambert

* '''ONVERWACHT 19 (G1) R * [N]'''
Start on the true righthand side of the kloof, about 30m downstream from Mhlabatini Chimney. The climb goes up a grey buttress with a small overhang 6m above the stream and capped by a large red overhang 45m up.
1. 30m G1 19 Climb up to a tree 2.5m above the stream and on the lefthand side of the buttress and then move up diagonally right underneath the overhang. Traverse 3m right and then move up through the overhang using a small ledge as hand and foothold, and continue up for a further 3m on small holds to where a nut runner is placed in a vertical crack. Move delicately right for 2m and then up the shallow depression for 1.5m before moving diagonally back up left to a small tree on the face. Continue up for 5m to a ledge on the lefthand side of the buttress. From here either climb straight up with difficulty through a small overhang to the large ledge 5m above or, (easier), traverse left around the corner and then up to the ledge.
2. 30m E2 10 Climb up the large red overhang, bypass it on the right and then traverse back left on to the nose above the overhang. Continue straight up to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1971 L P Fatti and E Druschke

* '''ONVERWACHT : ALTERNATIVE START 20 (G2) R [N]'''
Start about 6m right of the original start, on top of a boulder just to the left of a prominent corner, and just right of an arete with a small overhang about 3m up.
1. 30m G2 20 Climb up delicately to where protection can be placed in a horizontal crack at the level of the overhang. Swing left and move up the arete past overhang via two handholds, before being forced back right on to the smooth face. A very delicate move enables one to reach a good handhold and climb up on to an awkward ledge. Traverse left 3m to join the original route just below the next overhang.
First Ascent: 1983 L P Fatti and D Peters.

* '''VOORSTRAAT 15 (F2) R [N]'''
The climb starts about 45m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY and below the downstream end of a very large overhang.
1. 18m E2 10 Climb grey slab and continue up over roots before traversing left into corner.
2. 15m F2 15 Climb overhanging open book to tree stance.
3. 9m E2 10 Traverse to right and then up face to top
First Ascent: Jun 1960 B Penzhorn, M Urban, P Street and R Charlton

* '''INDOCTRINATION 17 (F3,M0) R ** [N]'''
The climb starts on the opposite side of the huge boulder marking the start of The Lesson. It is on the true righthand side of the kloof, at the same level as Kloof Descent.
1. 22m F3,M0 17 Start up a smooth open book recess to the left of a large tree. Several tricky moves up the fault above lead to a blank wall about 20m up. Using a small nut for aid, move up until able to do an awkward mantleshelf on to a tiny stance.
2. 30m F2 15 Directly above the stance is a wedge of rock forming a small overhang. Climb over the overhang before moving to the right around the corner. Move up and right via a tricky mantleshelf to a large ledge. To the right is a large loose overhanging recess; avoid this by moving left and up to a tree below an overhang. From the treestep left until able to climb up easily over some stacked blocks to a large platform.
3. 20m E2 10 Climb up the crack in the face above. Follow the easiest line to the top.
First Ascent: May 1977 L P Fatti and R H Smithers

* '''THE LESSON 20 (G2) L * [N]'''
The route starts from the top of the huge boulder, just upstream from Gaboom.
1. 15m F3 17 From the top of the boulder a few tricky moves right lead to the base of the obvious shallow chimney. A difficult move gives access into the chimney. Climb up and exit to the left onto a large ledge.
2. 18m G2 20 From the righthand side of the ledge climb up for 2m using downward sloping holds. Next traverse right across the smooth face to a point where one can place a small nut in a vertical crack. Stretch across right for the piton (in place) which enables one to move right onto good holds. Traverse right and climb up the break to a large tree at the base of an obvious open book.
3. 25m F1 13 Climb up the open book exiting to the left. Move right over a short wall and then right around the corner. Climb the arete to the top.
First Ascent: Jul 1976 R Smithers and L P Fatti Mar 1983 FFA C Edelstein and J Brown.

* '''THE LESSON - DIRECT 21 (G2) L [N]'''
Instead of crossing the blank face, continue up the crack and through the chimney crack above. A lack of handholds makes this route technical and strenuous and is somewhat more difficult than freeing the original aid (21 G2).
First Ascent: Mar 1983 C Edelstein and M Brunke.

* '''GABOOM 19 (G1,M1) L ** [N]'''
Start from a chimney between the large boulder and the kloof wall at Kloof Descent.
1. 9m F2 15 Climb across rightwards to a tree. Continue rightwards with an awkward mantleshelf onto a large ledge and tree belay.
2. 28m G1,M1 19 Ascend the layback crack on the left of the tree (5m) then step left and up to a protruding ledge below a short steep wall. Climb the recess on its left using a nut to gain the ledge above the steep wall. Move up the groove, step right and up to the bulge. Swing left into a short groove with a good jamming crack and up this to the overhang. Move back right into the original groove and up to a large ledge and peg belay.
3. 9m F2 15 Gain the horizontal break in the left wall and up into the cubbyhole. Move across left, around the arete and along the ledge to a belay in the corner above the tree.
4 22m F2 15 Ascend the corner and traverse right below the overhang to a small tree. Move up 1.5m and up right onto a slab, then up a short steep groove. Continue up rightwards to the top.
Note: A Fine route, pitch 2 providing sustained climbing with great variety on good rock. Pitch 2 has since been climbed free (21 G2).
First Ascent: Aug 1968 A D Barley, P Haupt and M Sanders.

* '''RIVERS OF RAIN 27 (H3/I1) L *** [N]'''
Start 10m downstream of Gaboom from a sandy patch.
1. 20m F3 17 Up tree on white rock to a muddy ledge. Walk left to tree. Up tree until forced back onto rock. Continue up to ledge beneath very overhanging corner/ crack on left.
2. 10m H3/I1 27 Climb the corner/crack.
First Ascent: Mar 1986 Pitch 1 K Smith and S Bradshaw. Pitch 2 S Bradshaw.

* '''KLOOF DESCENT 5 (C) R [N]'''
An easy route on the right of the kloof next to a group of large boulders.
First Ascent: Nov 1957 R Forsyth

* '''CATCH 22 (G3) R ** [N]'''
The climbing involves the obvious roof crack opposite Gaboom. Start 8m downstream of the Kloof Descent group of large boulders.
1. 30m F3 17 Climb up for a few metres, traverse right to break through a small overlap, traverse back left and climb up to the base of a short buttress. Climb this to a ledge, from which a traverse of 5m left is made to a ledge just below and to the right of the roof crack.
2. 10m G3 22 Move left and up to the roof, negotiate the crack, and climb the wall above to a ledge on the right.
Note: Which pitch is the catch.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 G Mallory and K M Smith.

* '''THE FINAL CUT 25 (H2) L **** [N]'''
The route takes the very obvious purple-streaked overhanging corner to the left of The Root on the Hypotenuse.
Scramble 10m up to the obvious large ledge below the obvious corner.
1. 25m H2 25 Up the very sustained corner to belay in the tree.
First Ascent: Nov 1984 S Bradshaw and A Jardin.

* '''THE ROOT ON THE HYPOTENUSE 13 (F1) L ** [N]'''
Start 18m downstream of Kloof Descent at the base of a huge recess below a large projecting overhang. Scramble 3m to a large ledge.
1. 9m E2 10 Ascend the V-groove using the numerous tree roots where necessary, to a large ledge on the left. Tree belay.
2. 9m E3 11 Move back across the top of the groove and diagonally right to a ledge on the arete. Peg belay.
3. 9m F1 13 From the ledge make an awkward move into the recess and continue traversing right to a tree which is used to gain the ledge above. Peg belay.
4. 15m E2 10 From the right end of the ledge move up a few metres and traverse right 3m until the wall can be climbed to a large detached block. Continue up to a large chockstone belay below the "prominent white overhang" (Pitch 1 stance of Concave).
5. 15m F1 13 Traverse right round the arete then make an awkward move across behind the tree to a ledge. Flake belay above.
6. 18m E1 8 Ascend the flake behind and climb up leftwards through trees to a ledge and tree belay.
7. 9m F1 13 Climb the yellow wall on the left of the recess using a good flake then difficult moves to the top.
Note: The route is entirely on good rock and traverses diagonally right under the large overhangs. The roots on pitches 1 and 2 are a nuisance but the rock underneath provides sound holds.
First Ascent: Jul 1968 A D Barley and Miss M van Steenderen.

* '''CONCAVE 15 (F2) L [N]'''
The climb starts below a prominent white overhang (shown on kloof plan). Scramble 5m to tree belay.
1. 18m F2 15 Walk upstream 3m to a small nose which gives access to ledge 3m above. Move up a further 1m to larger but off-balance ledge. Climb 5m over slightly overhanging face - high handholds up to the right. After 3m of easier rock to foot of recess mantleshelf 1.5m into open book. Continue 9m up series of small recesses to ledge.
2. 22m F2 15 Climb steep corner on small but good holds (delicate take-off) to ledge under large overhang.
3. 22m F2 15 Climb 12m up steep but broken crack to ledge above chockstone. Continue up crack a further 6mto small ledge at foot of open book. Traverse right 3m around corner (this can be made at two levels) into another open book. This is climbed for 3m to beacon.
First Ascent: Nov 1960 R Kinsley and B van der Riet

* '''COMMUNIST CONVERT 17 (F3) L [N]'''
15 F2 if Pitch 7 avoided
18m upstream of the large tree is a large cave at 18m which is the initial objective of the climb. Start between the cave and the tree.
1. 6m E2 10 Use the sapling to gain the large ledge.
2. 18m F1 13 Traverse 9m left to the base of the V-groove below the cave. Ascend the groove by laybacking and using the pinnacle flakes on the left wall. Belay in the cave.
3. 9m F2 15 Traverse 5m left from the cave and up to a narrow ledge. From the right end of the ledge make a difficult move up, then slightly left to the long ledge under the overhang.
4. 18m D 7 Traverse to the left round the arete and slant up and along the top ledge to a block and tree belay.
5. 17m E2 10 Move up into the groove capped by a tree, pass the detached block, step right and up the rib to large ledge and chock belay below the top overhang.
6. 17m F1 13 Climb directly up the wall behind, then up the shallow cracks (half red, half white - conversion imminent) to a large ledge below the overhang split by a chimney.
7. 9m F3 17 Climb up the recess to the overhang and move out until a very difficult move into the chimney can be made. Red converts easily to the top.
Note: Non-converts can avoid the last pitch by an easy slab on the left.
First Ascent: May 1968 A D Barley and Miss M van Steenderen.

* '''TREESY DOES IT 19 (G1) L [N]'''
About 30m upstream from The Yark and 30m downstream from Communist Convert is a tree growing up beside a face which has an overhang about 10m up.
1. 18m G1 19 Move up face for about 5m making liberal use of tree. Move onto ledges and then up and leftward onto ledge just below overhang. Traverse leftward with difficulty to ledge at base of a corner.
2. 15m F2 15 Climb strenuously up corner for about 5m and then right onto ledge. Move easily up face to large ledge and then walk right to large tree.
3. 40m F1 13 Move up face for 6m then to right into base of recess. Climb up past large tree to a larger tree about 12m up. Continue up recess system and then up face to top.
First Ascent: Jun 1974 L P Fatti and A McGarr

* '''YARK 16 (F2) L [N]'''
37m upstream of ESCAPE ROUTE a large single root slants down the left wall from 15m to the kloof bed. 6m upstream of this is a crack starting at 5m and slanting up left.
1. 16 (F2) 22m Start from a boulder and move awkwardly up rightwards to the base of the slanting crack. Ascend the crack 5m and traverse left under a nose and then up 3m until a swing right can be made onto the nose. Traverse a few metres to a tree belay almost above the start.
2. 13 (F1) 9m Move back left and up a recess then ascend the rib directly above the stance to a ledge and peg belay.
3. 15 (F2) 15m Move diagonally up right for 5m then up the steep wall on good holds. Move left below a bulge and up to a large ledge and chockstone belay.
4. 6 (D) 12m Scramble to the top.
First Ascent: Jun 1969 AD Barley, M White, Miss M van Steenderen

* '''CRYING OVER MEMORIES 25 (H2) L **** [N]'''
Bold climbing up the tenuous flake-line left of TOTAL ONSNORT.
1. 15m H2 25 Start 2m left of Total On-Snort. Head slightly leftwards to peg. Straight up flakes (exiting left at the top).
First Ascent: May 1986 S Bradshaw.

* '''TOTAL ON-SNORT 25 (H2) L **** [N,P]'''
This route is situated on the short overhanging face 60m upstream of the wade pool on the true left side of the kloof i.e. 20m or so upstream of Futch on the same side of the kloof. Scramble up onto the rock ledges below the start of Futch and walk left past Dirrigible Dog. Scramble up about 4m to below the short face.
1. 15m H2 25 Start on the right and climb the obvious crack to a peg, move up with difficulty to good holds. Continue to the top.
2. Opened with multiple falls.
3. Excellent climbing - only shortcoming of the route is that it is short.
4. Maybe harder than 25 H2.
Note: 1 Peg left in-situ, placed on abseil.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 C Edelstein.

* '''MYTH OF FINGERPRINTS 26 (H3) L [B,N]'''
Climbs the face to the right of TOTAL ON-SNORT.
First Ascent: 1987 Roger Natrass

* '''DUSTY DOG 17 (F3) L [N]'''
Start on the arete 10m to the left of Futch.
1. 20m F3 17 Pull up awkwardly over the bulge. Climb the recess to under the large overhang. Traverse the face and exit right.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 C Edelstein and M Greenslade.

* '''FUDGE 11 (E3) L [N]'''
Approximately 10m upstream of Futch on the same side is a very aesthetic open book 10m above stream level. From the base of Futch scramble up to base of open book.
1. 12m E3 11 Climb open book to top (pleasant but short) - from here a variety of routes led to the top.
First Ascent: Oct 1985 S Middlemiss and P S Greenfield.

* '''PERAMBULATING PUP 18 (G1) L [N]'''
About 5m to the right of Dusty Dog is a large block with a medium sized tree growing behind it, start at its base.
1. 20m G1 18 Climb up 3m to the overhang, move right and up in the corner on excellent jams.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 C Edelstein and M Greenslade.

* '''DIRIGIBLE DOG 23 (H1) L [N]'''
The start is 5m to the right of Perambulating Pup beneath a bulging overhang. A thin crack starts in the bulge of the overhang and widens further up - to about 4 cm.
1. 20m H1 23 Start with a difficult move from the left to a good hand hold, and then move easily to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 1986 C Edelstein and M Greenslade.

* '''DIAMONDS IN THE DAWN 22 (G3) R *** [N]'''
This route is the righthand of three cracks on a buttress about 100m downstream of The Final Cut but on the true right. The buttress is at the top of the kloof. The route takes an off-width-looking crack and is discernable from the river. Approach from the top.
1. 15m G3 22 Easily up to the roof. Pull through and continue up the crack.
First Ascent: Oct 1986 S Bradshaw and G Mallory.

* '''DAIRY BELL 17 (F3) L * [N]'''
A short route with some interesting roof moves. The route starts 8m to the left of Futch.
1. 15m F3 17 From the large sloping ledge 4m above the stream mantleshelf into a short open book. Step 1m right and continue straight up to the roof. The roof is climbed by pulling through on a detached block on the left.
2. Scramble to easier ground or abseil down Escape Route.
First Ascent: Dec 1982 G Mallory and E Haig.

* '''FUTCH 20 (G2) L * [N]'''
Takes the impressive off-width crack through the roof just upstream of the cave next to Escape Route. The grade varies from 17 F3 for a small climber with experience in off-width climbing, to 22 G3 for a larger fellow!
1. 15m G2 20 Start from boulder left of the cave and climb left onto a ledge in the corner (wet in summer). Ascend the open book on a loose sounding flake to the roof. Enter the crack awkwardly and wriggle strenuously to the top.
2. ?m D 6 Scramble right to Escape Route and descend.
First Ascent: Dec 1982 J Schoonees, G Mallory, H van Eeden and JvanEeden.

* '''ESCAPE ROUTE 7 (D) R [N]'''
Above the lower pool a boulder blocks the kloof. This provides a means of escape to the left when going down the kloof by a climb of 18m on roots and ridge.
First Ascent: Nov 1957 E Scholes

* '''THE ACCESS TRAVERSE 10 (E2) R [N]'''
This allows access to the kloof from the lower campsite and traverses above the lower pool and boulder which prevent access to the kloof. (See plan).
Start 9m downstream of the pool and ascend 3m then traverse diagonally right to a sapling immediately above the pool. Step down and right under an overhang then uprightwards to a block runner. Descend diagonally right and jump onto the large boulder.
The next pool may be passed on its true left (facing downstream) by ascending ledges.
First Ascent: Unknown

* '''FIRE AND ICE 19 (G1) R [N]'''
This route is on the true right side of the kloof just 50m upstream of Golden Gate. It takes the break up a grey face which is touched by the branches of a large tree about 18m above the level of the stream. It then continues up the centre of an orange buttress (not visible from the stream).
1. 40m F3 17 Climb the break to a large overhang and continue up to the right of the overhang (the large branches of the tree will be just behind you). Continue up and slightly left on easy ground to below an overhanging crack.
2. 30m G1 19 Climb the overhanging crack to easy ground and then climb the arete directly above on good jugs on its right edge.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.

* '''TREACHERY AND TREASON 18 (G1) R * [N]'''
The route is about 75m downstream of the wade pool at the bottom of Mhlabatini. It starts immediately upstream of a short steep grey wall (30m downstream of Fire & Ice).
1. 20m F1 13 Start up a messy recess and pull past a steeper section to gain a stance.
2. 25m E1 10 Scramble diagonally right to reach a ledge below an impressive orange and white face on a downstream facing buttress.
3. 20m G1 18 Climb a thin crack in the face left of the buttress.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 G Mallory and S Mallory.

* '''UP YOURS 17 (F3) R [N]'''
The climb is situated 40m upstream from the Golden Gate buttress and 45m downstream from the big pool blocking the bottom of the kloof. The climb is on the true righthand side of the kloof and 5m downstream from a recess and large tree that leans over from the left. Start from a boulder in the river below an overlap.
1. 20m F3 17 Climb up to the overlap and through easily to the left. Move across right to a short steep face and climb this to the corner under the prominent overhang. Swing across left and down, then climb the ramp and face to a cubby hole. (At this point, the tree from the other side of the kloof reaches the rock.)
2. 35 F1 13 Move 3m to the left and climb straight up easy rock to a recess between the buttress on the right and large block on the left. Climb onto the block and then move up and around to the left and climb a recess until it is possible to move across right to a large ledge below a corner.
3. 20m E2 10 Climb the corner to a cubby hole. Climb into the cubby hole and then up a crack to top of buttress. Scramble to the top.
First Ascent: Jun 1981 C Shuttleworth and H Boshoff.

* '''FIDO 11 (F1) R [N]'''
Start 30m upstream from The Golden Gate, in an openbook formed by an undercut buttress.
1. 30m F1 11 Climb the righthand wall of an openbook, capped by a large overhang 20m up. Climb 10m to small tree growing on face then traverse to left side and around onto the face of the buttress. Straight up on good holds to stance with tree belay.
2. 25m E2 9 Climb straight up in corner to large stance with tree belay.
3. 10m C 5 Scramble to top.
First Ascent: Aug 1985 B Schumacher and J Ferrington.

* '''THE GOLDEN GATE 15 (F2) R [N]'''
The route ascends the Gatepost Buttress at the lower end of the kloof and immediately above the lower campsite.
Scramble up from the downstream side to a ledge under the buttress. Start below a thin black crack 3m right of the blunt undercut arete.
1. 15m F1 13 Ascend diagonally left to the arete and up this then diagonally left to belay below the chimney.
2. 10m F2 15 Make an awkward initial move up the chimney then continue up to a tree belay on the right.
3. 15m E2 10 Move 5m right and up a curving crack then across left on good holds to finish.
Alternative starts:
1a ?m F3 17 Start 3m left of the blunt arete and ascend a slanting crack to gain the arete.
1b ?m F2 15 Start 5m left of the blunt arete and ascend the corner for 5m then right and up to the arete.
Note: Below the Gatepost Buttress on the left is a small buttress providing many 30m problems of varying difficulty.
First Ascent: Aug 1968 K Fletcher, R Duff and party

* '''LOVE JUGS 20 (G2) R [N]'''
The route takes the line up the middle of the buttress known as Golden Gate at the bottom campsite. The Golden Gate is the large orange rock buttress visible from the road.
1. 35m G2 20 Start 2m to the right of corner on the northern aspect of the buttress. A difficult move up and then more easily to a large ledge. Above is another break. Do an awkward move up and then move diagonally up right to jumbo ledge. Climb the obvious slanting crack 2m right of the wriggle chimney and move right before the next huge ledge.
Note: The last pitch is common with that of Golden Gate.
First Ascent: May 1985 C Edelstein and T Gluck.

* '''SUBTLE 15 (F2) [N]'''
These are three short routes left of Clever (just round the corner). Subtle takes the open book on the left. Innuendo straddles through the small roof in the middle and Oblique takes the right-slanting crack on the right.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.

* '''INUENDO 15 (F2) [N]'''
These are three short routes left of Clever (just round the corner). Subtle takes the open book on the left. Innuendo straddles through the small roof in the middle and Oblique takes the right-slanting crack on the right.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.

* '''OBLIQUE 17 (F3) [N]'''
These are three short routes left of Clever (just round the corner). Subtle takes the open book on the left. Innuendo straddles through the small roof in the middle and Oblique takes the right-slanting crack on the right.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.

* '''CLEVER 15 (F2) L [N]'''
On the rock buttress, on the true left side of the kloof, just downstream from the lower campsite is an obvious crack-line with a small tree half-way up.
1. 20m F2 15 Move up from the slabs onto the face and then into the crack and continue up to the ledge and tree. Continue up the inverted-V and then up easy rock to the top.
First Ascent: Apr 1982 C Edelstein, R van Dijk and J Lever.

* '''BULLION 18 (G1) L ** [N]'''
This route is below the lower campsite (between Cleaver and Credit Card Cult). It takes a line up a striking orange face flanked on either side by recesses.
1. 8m G1 19 Start in the middle of a grey slab and climb on thin holds to a stance at a tree.
2. 15m G1 18 Start on blocks on left and climb up 3m before moving 1m right. Climb straight up from there.
First Ascent: Jun 1985 G Mallory and S Mallory.

* '''GRINALDUS 19 (G1) L [N]'''
This route is situated on the first rock buttress you come to on the true left side of the kloof just downstream of the lower campsite. Start 3m to the right of Clever just to the left of an overhang which is about 8m above the ground.
1. 20m G1 19 Start below a short face. Pull-up on good holds onto the face to below a small overhang, swing right and continue up the right-facing open book to a metre or so below the overhang. Swing left onto the arete and continue up the left facing open book to below an overhang (consisting of a jutting-out slab of rock). Pull through the overhang on the right.
First Ascent: Apr 1982 C Edelstein, R van Dijk.

* '''AND THEN THERE WERE THREE 13 (F1) L [N]'''
Situated on the small buttress in the lower part of Mhlabatini, just downstream of the lower campsite and on the true lefthand side of the kloof. Approximately 12m downstream of Grinaldus is a wide very shallow open book, the faces of which are grey.
1. 38m F1 13 The route ascends the right face of the open book (fairly thin). Move up diagonally rightwards to the large grassy ledge at the base of the two chimneys above (4m). Ascend the rough knobbled face to the right of the righthand chimney to the summit.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 T P Willmot and S Kelsey.

* '''NOT SO MUCH TO FLY AS TO PLUMMET 17 (F3) L *** [N]'''
Approximately 8m downstream of AND THEN THERE WERE THREE is a deep vegetated chimney. Left of this is a grey slab topped by a pronounced steep-looking red face bound on the right by a sharp arete.
1. 38m F3 17 The route ascends the left of the grey slab to the ledge above with tree, just below the red face (4m). Continue up the red face starting at its left extremity and moving up diagonally rightwards (thin) to the rounded nose above. Immediately above the nose is a crack system. Ascend this to the top, finishing as for AND THEN THERE WHERE THREE.
Note: A pleasant short route with good exposure on the face.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 T P Willmot and S Kelsey.

* '''HAIRY FISH 11 (E3) L [N]'''
Approximately 1 metre downstream of Not So Much to Fly as to Plummet is a broken open book leading to a chimney on the right of the sharp arete. The route ascends the
book and the chimney to the top. A pleasant route although a bit chossy lower down.
1. 24m E3 11 Move up the open book to the base of the chimney. Gain the chimney by stepping right and up. Bridge up, bearing right as the chimney widens. As the angle eases, ascend the red face on the right to the top.
First Ascent: Apr 1985 S Kelsey, M T Willmot and T P Willmot.

* '''EASY DOG 13 (F1) L [N]'''
30m downstream from Grinaldus on the same side of the kloof is a south-facing open book. Climb this easily.
First Ascent: 1983 C Edelstein.

* '''THE CREDIT CARD CULT 20 (G2) L [N]'''
This route starts 5m to the left of Overdraft and takes the thin line through the centre of the orange face. (25m)
First Ascent: Jun 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.

* '''OVERDRAFT 17 (F3) L [N]'''
10m left of Prime Rate is an undercut orange face. On the right arete of the face is a break. Climb this starting with an awkward move. (25m)
First Ascent: Jun 1985 C Edelstein and G Mallory.

* '''PRIME RATE 21 (G2) L [N]'''
On the same side as Grinaldus, about 100m downstream two roofs are visible - the first about 15m above the stream bed, the second 10m above the first. Scramble up to a stance below the first roof. Step off a block and do a difficult move through and up to a ledge (tree belay)under the next roof. An immaculate move takes you through the next roof. (25m)
First Ascent: 1983 C Edelstein, J Brown and T Holt.

[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/mhlabatini.html SACIN site - Mhlabatini]

Fern Kloof (sport and trad)

2010-11-02T20:37:06Z

Hector: Created page with '= Access = Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp.…'

= Access =
Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp. When the highway gets to a 4-way stop at a Zenex garage turn right towards Tarlton. Follow the road to a T-junction at another Zenex Garage and Oak Tree shop where you turn right. Follow this road until you see a sign to "Bekker Skole", turn left (if you get to a T-junction before this turn you missed it by a few km. Pass "Bekker Skole" and turn right at the next T-junction. Follow this road towards Rustenburg until it curves and goes around a dam. A few kilometres further you take a right turn (The first right after the dam). Follow this road and after passing "The Wigwam" resort on your right look carefully for the "Bergheim" sign, also on your right. If you get to a tar road turning left you have gone a bit too far. This resort offers good camping facilities and there are a few chalets.There is secure parking for day visitors and a short flat path to the sport crags. The natural climbs requires a steep, hot walk or a tricky and damp ascent through the kloof. To access the kloof goto the bottom right corner of the campsite, climb over the fence and follow the path, always keep right until you get into the kloof.

= Routes/ Gradings =
There are about 82 climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32. There are several classic sport routes which are relatively hard and steep, but good quality as well as many multi-pitch natural climbs of moderate grade.

= Aspect =
The kloof is shaded and cool all year round with plenty of running water. You can climb all year round just avoiding the occasional thunderstorm in summer. In the sport crags wasps like to gather in the cracks in winter, but if not provoked never seem to sting.

= Notes =
This kloof is steep & scenically attractive featuring many natural lines and harder sport routes of grade 24 including a few classic routes such as Faberge and Stormwatch. Access is through the Bergheim camp ground. Park in the campsite. You can walk to a gate and along a road until you get to a good path leading toward the kloof. You can see the kloof directly in front of you as you walk along the path. There is always plenty of water in the kloof. The bolted sport routes are found in the lower areas all below the large pool.

= Route guide =
[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/fernkloof.html SACIN site - Fern kloof]

= New Routes =
[Culled from Forum: http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28905&t=5840 ]

Crouching Cricket
Post subject: FernkloofPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:37 am

I am heading off to Fernkloof this weekend to sample some of the climbing there and I'm hoping that someone can help with some route info. There is a section of rock either between the lower area and mirror mirror area or just after the mirror mirror area (Been a while so I forgot where exactly it is). There a number of routes on this section of rock that aren't on the route guide; does anyone know info about these climbs?

Heinrich
Post subject: Re: FernkloofPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 4:06 pm

There is one addition to the lower section of Fernkloof, a project by Neil Margetts - a link-up between True Sailing is Dead and Lawyers, Guns and Money.

On the Mirror-Mirror wall (Middle sector), there are two "new" routes:
Bambi and the Broken Leg 22 is just to the right of Erik Rieman's open-book 26. It follows the rightmost crack and onto the arete. great route. Just right (and around the corner) of Bambi, you will find an unknown and very technical 19 - good warm-up. good route.

On the far left of the Mirror-Mirror section you will find Paul Brouard's ultra-hard Aqualung - this is the leftmost line. Goes at 32 or so. Right of this is Andrew Pedley's project - think it's open, but check with him. Will be VERY hard, in the regions of 32, i guess? to the right of this you'll find the classic Acromax 29, and just right of Acromax there are two new routes - both bolted by Neil. Their crades are in the regions of 24/25. One's name is Lost Ruby (Neil's African Grey escaped when he bolted it...), don't know the other's name. Both are fun routes, not to be under-estimated!

That's about it. Not much more space for new routes, it's filled to the brim!

shorti
Post subject: Re: FernkloofPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 4:35 pm

>>Heinrich wrote:
>>Just right (and around the corner) of Bambi, you will find an unknown and very technical 19 - good warm-up. good >>route.

It's name is Reflected Sins - also one of Neil's routes if I'm not mistaken.

Grootkloof (trad)

2010-11-02T20:33:08Z

Hector: Created page with '= Access = This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Contact the MCSA for access details. = Routes/ Gradings = The…'

= Access =
This kloof is owned by the [[MCSA]] and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Contact the [[MCSA]] for access details.

= Routes/ Gradings =
There are 129 traditional climbs here, mostly single pitch routes but generally of very high quality. A few routes are bolted or have some bolts but many of them are very badly rusted. The grades vary from 5 to 28 with some really good classics at most grades.

= Aspect =
Water is always available in the river. It is usually quite shaded and cool in the kloof.

= Notes =
The usual approach is through Ysterhoutkloof (Kleinkloof), the customary camping kloof, and then scrambling into Grootkloof via Grootkloof Gully at grade 8. Water is always available as the stream flows strongly throughout the year. The meet point is 20m upstream from the base of the gully, next to a large 15m high rock buttress in the kloof. Walking upstream from the meet point is straightforward; alternative access to the upper end of the kloof being via Easy Gully. Access downstream necessitates wading, and climbing or abseiling down Pool Descent 10 to get past a 20m waterfall. Continuing lower down the kloof requires frequent wading. Slab gully on the true left provides alternative access to the lower part of the kloof, requiring one abseil; otherwise one can walk into the kloof from where it opens out about 75m downstream. On the true right-hand side, Woody Gully provides easy access into the upper part of the kloof, and Walking Gully into the lower part. The watercourse opposite Grootkloof Gully provides a convenient 7 descent to the meet point for climbs on the right-hand side. One should scramble down the true left-hand side of this watercourse to enter it about 25m up from Phoenix. For those not familiar with this descent, an abseil down the last 15m is recommended. A unique feature of the kloof is a huge suspended chockstone with trees growing on it straddling the whole kloof midway between Sonderbroek and Trumpet. The climbs are up to 60m in height and the rock is generally excellent. There is a good selection of climbs in all grades. BLACK EAGLES nest from April to October inclusive and the following climbs should NOT be done during this period. NEW ERA CRACK, LILLIPUT RIDGE and THE CRYSTAL SHIP.

= Route guide =
[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/grootkloof.html SACIN site - Groot kloof]

Boulder Kloof (trad)

2010-11-02T20:29:46Z

Hector: Created page with '= Access = This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see MCSA page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. = Routes/ Gradings = There are a…'

= Access =
This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see [[MCSA]] page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex.

= Routes/ Gradings =
There are about 60 traditional climbs here, mostly single pitch routes but generally of very high quality. The grades vary from 8 to 27 and many routes in the early twenties can be found here including many good classics.

= Aspect =
Sometimes water can be found in the kloof but usually one needs to get close to the intersection with Tonquani. Climbing is good all year round.

= Notes =
The kloof joins Lower Tonquani just before Cedarberg. The meet spot is below the climb Comanici. The nearest perennial supply of water is at the junction with Lower Tonquani. Climbs are generally of a very high standard on good quality, steep rock but tend to be short.

= Route guide =
[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/boulder.html SACIN site - Boulder kloof]

Cederberg Kloof (trad)

2010-11-02T20:25:57Z

Hector: Created page with '= Routes/ Gradings = Over 100 natural climbs exist here, mostly multi-pitch natural lines. Routes of close to 100m high can be found at the junction of the kloof with Tonquani. T…'

= Routes/ Gradings =
Over 100 natural climbs exist here, mostly multi-pitch natural lines. Routes of close to 100m high can be found at the junction of the kloof with Tonquani. The grades vary from 5 to 30 with the bulk of the routes in the 17-20 range.

= Aspect =
A good stream flows down the whole kloof which is quite long, like all other kloofs it is mostly shaded by forests. Climbing is good all year round. Heavy rains can make the kloof dangerous.

= Route Guide =
[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/cedarberg.html SACIN site - Cedarberg]

= New Routes =

'''Apperture 19 **** [N]'''
Downstream from Tigatrix there is a large arch on the true left. Hangdog climbs the centre of the left pillar of the arch. Sidewalk climbs the inside (upstream) corner of the right pillar, then rails right. This route takes the front of the right hand pillar, then the shallow open book and crack on the left arête of the right hand pillar.
Start from the large flat-topped boulder just above the nice swimming pool. This is directly below Hangdog. Scramble up to a grassy ledge, scramble/traverse right to a corner and scramble/climb up to a good platform below the right hand pillar. It might be a good idea to use a rope for this scramble.

1. 19, 30m Climb the face on the front of the pillar to below the big roof. Rail left to the arête and pull around the overhang to get into the base of the shallow open book. Step right to a foot ledge and climb the thin crack until able to step back left into the shallow open book. Climb to the rail and rail right to the arête (shared with Sidewalk). Step right onto the front of the pillar and climb jugs to the top.

Notes:
* 1. Small cams and wires are useful.
* 2. The route was cleaned of loose rock before being led.

* FA: Hector Pringle, Rushad Nanavatty November 2008.

'''Life after Enlightenment 27 *** [N]'''
Just right of "Strange days", this is an extention to Shaun Harris' boulder problem "Green Beetle" (7A+), found just left of the right-facing, black-streaked dihedral at the old MCSA meet spot. The line is very intimidating, as the gear placements are few and far between, with a possible deck fall if you miss the rail after the redpoint crux.

1. 27, 15m Climb "Green Beetle", and then continue straight up. The route is naturally divided into three sections, followed by a top-out scramble. The middle section is the redpoint crux, with a very reachy move to a good rail (between the all three sections are good rails - the only places on the route to get in gear). Luckily the gear between section one and two is bomber, but the problem here is that your are well above your gear (small cam and a nut) when you go for the second rail, and the first gear rail is only 3.5m above deck. The second half of the route is super easy and also well protected. sling the tree before the run-out scramble and finish the route.

Notes:
1. Take extreme care if you place on lead, as decking is a serious possibility with a bad belay.
2. The route was top-roped before being led.
3. Gear was placed on lead, except one piece, to protect the second section, to prevent the possible deck mentioned.
FA: Heinrich Kahl, 28 March 2009.

'''Black Karma 25 *** [N]'''

1. 25, 15m Just right of "Life after Enlightenment" there is a right-facing, black-streaked dihedral, with a roof. The route goes straight up the dihedral and through the roof, onto a ledge. From this ledge, climb "Scotman's Safari" (9) to top out.

Notes:
1. Gear was placed on lead.
FA. Heinrich Kahl, 4 October, 2008.

Lower Tonquani (trad)

2010-11-02T20:19:47Z

Hector: Created page with '= Access = This is also an MCSA owned kloof and is the continuation of Upper Tonquani going downstream. Permits should be obtained - see the MCSA page for details. It is…'

= Access =
This is also an [[MCSA]] owned kloof and is the continuation of Upper Tonquani going downstream. Permits should be obtained - see the [[MCSA]] page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the [[MCSA]] for more access details.

= Routes/ Gradings =
This is a long section of the kloof with 132 natural routes. The climbs are mostly multi-pitch natural lines. These routes see grades from 7 to 26. Some 90m and higher climbs can be found in the area where Cedarberg intersects Tonquani.

= Aspect =
There is plenty of water and moving up and down the kloof usually results in you getting wet. Climbing is good all year round.

= Notes =
The access traverse above the pools between Upper and Lower Tonquani (C) is over polished rock and is hazardous to inexperienced parties. The lower meet point is at the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction. The longest climbs are in the area of the Cedarberg junction with climbs of up to 90m. The rock is generally excellent and water is always available.

= Route guide =
[http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/lowertonq.html SACIN site - Lower Tonquani kloof]

Upper Tonquani (trad)

2010-11-02T20:17:01Z

Hector:

Upper Tonquani (trad)

2010-11-02T20:09:39Z