South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Klein Winterhoek

2012-12-16T09:00:47Z

Hilton: /* Routes */

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude =
| Longitude =
| Climbing Type =
| Rock Type =
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area =
}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

= Routes =

[[Category:Western Cape]]
The mountain is characterized by the prominent frontal ridge that is visible from Cape Town, and by the enormous overhanging amphitheatre on the eastern side of the peak.

The routes on the mountain in chronological order of first ascent are:

Right Hand Ridge (there is no official name of this route around to the right from the amphitheatre)

FA: Londt and Stokoe, November 1920

Klein Winterhoek Frontal

FA: George Londt, Frank Berrisford, RS Yates and Stanley Morton, 31 December 1920

9 pitches, grade 15

Left-Hand Arete

FA: Hans Graafland and Mike Scott, December 1969

17 short pitches, grade 16 A2

The Times They Are A-Changing

FA: Dave Cheesmond, Chris Lomax and Greg Lacey, April 1978

12 pitches, original grade 20 A2, freed at 21

First route on the amphitheatre, on the right side

Oceans of Fear

FA: Andrew de Klerk and Greg Lacey, April 1983

First One-Day ascent: Douw Steyn and Jeremy Colenso, 1992

FFA: Andrew de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1994

13 pitches, original grade 20 A3, freed at 28

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Wall of Silence

FA: Andrew de Klerk (solo), Jan-Feb 1986

13 pitches, grade 21 A4

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Children of the Sky

FA: Jeremy Colenso and Jeremy Samson, September 1987

14 pitches, grade 23 A3

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Gorillas in the Mist

FA: Jeremy Colenso and M Reid, 1989

about 10 - 12 pitches, grade 17

The rib right of The Times They are a-Changing

Art of Hearts

FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Mohle, Mar-Apr 2011

grade 25R A3

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Rapture

FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, March 2012

13 pitches, grade 23

On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.

Rainy Day Ridge

FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, April 2012

8 pitches, grade 18

Starts at Camp Roger in the gully next to the stream, ascends the ridge and finishes just below the amphitheatre. Suitable to be combined with the Frontal Route for a long moderate route of about 20 pitches.

== '''Descent''' ==

From the summit head north-east along the summit ridge to the nek, alternatively before the nek follow beacons down the face over the ridge for a short-cut into the gully. Descend the gully. Some way down traverse right over a ridge to avoid the waterfall a bit further downstream. Camp site is directly below.

Klein Winterhoek

2012-12-16T08:57:27Z

Hilton: /* Routes */

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude =
| Longitude =
| Climbing Type =
| Rock Type =
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area =
}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

= Routes =

[[Category:Western Cape]]
The mountain is characterized by the prominent frontal ridge that is visible from Cape Town, and by the enormous overhanging amphitheatre on the eastern side of the peak.

The routes on the mountain in chronological order of first ascent are:

Right Hand Ridge (there is no official name of this route around to the right from the amphitheatre)

FA: Londt and Stokoe, November 1920

Klein Winterhoek Frontal

FA: George Londt, Frank Berrisford, RS Yates and Stanley Morton, 31 December 1920

9 pitches, grade 15

Left-Hand Arete

FA: Hans Graafland and Mike Scott, December 1969

17 short pitches, grade 16 A2

The Times They Are A-Changing

FA: Dave Cheesmond, Chris Lomax and Greg Lacey, April 1978

12 pitches, original grade 20 A2, freed at 21

First route on the amphitheatre, on the right side

Oceans of Fear

FA: Andrew de Klerk and Greg Lacey, April 1983

First One-Day ascent: Douw Steyn and Jeremy Colenso, 1992

FFA: Andrew de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1994

13 pitches, original grade 20 A3, freed at 28

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Wall of Silence

FA: Andrew de Klerk (solo), Jan-Feb 1986

13 pitches, grade 21 A4

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Children of the Sky

FA: Jeremy Colenso and Jeremy Samson, September 1987

14 pitches, grade 23 A3

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Art of Hearts

FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Mohle, Mar-Apr 2011

grade 25R A3

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Rapture

FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, March 2012

13 pitches, grade 23

On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.

Rainy Day Ridge

FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, April 2012

8 pitches, grade 18

Starts at Camp Roger in the gully next to the stream, ascends the ridge and finishes just below the amphitheatre. Suitable to be combined with the Frontal Route for a long moderate route of about 20 pitches.

== '''Descent''' ==

From the summit head north-east along the summit ridge to the nek, alternatively before the nek follow beacons down the face over the ridge for a short-cut into the gully. Descend the gully. Some way down traverse right over a ridge to avoid the waterfall a bit further downstream. Camp site is directly below.

Hout Bay

2012-12-11T16:39:09Z

Hilton: /* Route Info */

Variable climbing from nice sport climbing at Skoorsteenkop to multi-pitch tradding, some on big walls.
The climbing is located in quite a number of areas.

== Gear ==
Usual sport climbing or tradding racks. On trad routes wear a helmet and use double ropes.

== The climbing ==
The sport climbing is single pitch. The trad climbing is mostly old sandstone with some loose rock in certain areas. Chapman's Peak is quite serious and while some parts of The Sentinel are really good, other parts are grim.

== Getting there ==
From Cape Town go via the coastal route passing Llandudno else via Constantia Nek.

== Notes ==

== Contact ==
For access to Skoorsteenkop you need a gate key to pass through an estate. Contact Mountain Mail Order/Seven Summits for the key. Tel 021 790 6026.

== Routes ==

Many of the old routes are described in journals of the Mountain Club of South Africa.

== Bokkemanskloof, Hout Bay, Cape ==

Access:

Park at the top of the exceedingly steep Blue Valley Avenue which leads up through the Bokkemanskloof housing estate. Find the path to the left of the end of the road. Head up to the prominent buttress up on the left.

Route:

Pitch 1: 25m 16. Good climbing on excellent vertical rock to the platform above.

Pitch 2: 20m 16. Directly up.

Pitches 3: 100m 10/11. scramble directly up on good rock.

Pitch 4: 40m 16. Climb up the middle of the headwall .

Descent:

From the top walk down the valley on either side of the ridge.

First Ascent:

Eric Maguire, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 5 July 1997.

== Chapman’s Left Edge ==

Chapman’s Peak, Hout Bay, Cape

Access:

The crag is the spectacular one above the road that leads from Hout Bay to Noordhoek. Park at the appropriate siding on Chapman’s Peak Pass. Walk and scramble up a steep gorge which leads to the base of the lefthand edge of the crag. This route heads up the good white rock on the left of the face and then to the centre of the headwall in a dramatic situation.

Route:

Pitches 1 to 6: 250m 10 to 15. Climb the wall which leads continually rightwards.

Pitch 7: 50m 16. Stance in the centre of the main amphitheatre and head directly up the centre of the headwall. At the roof head out to the right, then up to the top.

Descent:

From the top head left to the top of the mountain. Descend the north-east side facing Hout Bay, on a good path. At a big junction take a left turn to walk back down to the road.

First Ascent:

David Davies and Hilton Davies, Christmas 1996.

== Skoorsteenkop ==
A nice crag in the Hout Bay valley

The old access no longer works. Local residents have received permission to gate their area for security reasons. See the new arrangement below.

+/-15 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 5 to 6c+. 25min walk up to crags. Sandstone

=== Season ===
Great on hot summer days (best in the afternoon), but this crag should be avoided when the wind blows as it is very exposed.

=== Gear ===
50m / 60m rope and sport rack

=== The climbing ===
Mostly vertical faces with a couple of small overhangs to get around.

=== Getting there ===

To get there, From Constantia Nek head down Main Road into Hout Bay for four and a half kilometres, passing the Oakhurst Farm Park and Greenacres Close.
Turn left into Hughenden Road - up the road for 50m
Then left into Whittlers Way.
Follow Whittlers way for about 700 metres until just beyond Peterhof Close, where a locked gale can be found on the right, between number 30 and 32 Whittlers Way (opposite the entrance to No. 37 Whittlers Way). This gate gives access to a strip of land which is a servitude belonging the waterworks department, which leads to another locked gate, and then the pipe track, which is also a waterworks servitude.
Once crossed, you are on the mountain.

Walk up for 100 metres to the contour track. Head left a little way and then straight up to the obvious fortress-like buttress above.

You will need an access code for for the locked gates (see below).

If you wish to continue further there are some cairns that lead to the top of Skoorsteenberg, but there is no path beyond Skoorsteenkop.
The museum offers this route as' part of its walking programme.

"Access is only allowed during daylight hours, as there are security beams in the area and people crossing could d cause problems for the adjacent land owners who are trying to keep their properties safe. "He also urges the public to leave all gates locked once they have passed through them, and to be safety conscious while in the area.
There are two locks and you can get the code from Watchcon (021 7909333) Please keep the gates locked and don't use after dark.

The access code for the gate can be obtained from the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA), Watchcon or Gerfried Nebe. Call MCSA on 021 465 3412 between 10 am and 2 pm from Monday to Friday, Watchcon on 021 790 9333 or Gerfried Nebe on 021 790 3877.
[Suffix: don't call the MCSA. just call watchcon. - Robert].

== Route Info ==
Skoorsteenkop Routes -

*In Gods Country 6c/ 25m
*Stairway to Heaven 5+/ 25m
*Rapture 6b+/ 22m
*Guru 6b+/ 20m
*Babylon /18 N 20m
*Lichen or Not 6b/ 18m
*Mustang Sally 6b/ 15m
*Breaking Point 6c/ 18m
*V 6b/ 20m
*Cereal Killer 6b/ 20m
*Shining Way 5+/ 20m

'''New route'''

*First Gear 6a+/20 FA: R. Halsey 24/05/2010

Short, fun route on isolated face just right of ''Lichen it or Not'', in a nice position above the gully.

Fight through crack in the roof above ledge, then follow rails in the centre of the face to top.

[[Image:First_gear.JPG]]

== The Sentinel ==
Twilight of an Idol - Originally opened by Guy Holwill and John Orrock as a 10 pitch aid route in 1989. Freed (except pitch 4) by Guy and Dave Pothier in 1992. Most pitches listed here are quite short. It awaits a completely free ascent...

== Route Info ==

The feature to look for is the rail going leftwards thru the big roof on pitch 4.

P1 – easy 40m: Climb/scramble to the big ledge

P2 – 26: Climb the short sandy wall to the hand-crack thru the roof (might be soft for the grade)

P3 – 20: Climb the crack dihedral to the ledge below the big roofs.

P4 – A1: Climb the big dihedral to below the roof, then rail out leftwards to a stance just around the lip. This should go free 24-26 ish – but it's quite intimidating.

P5 to P9 18: Climb the face straight up tending slightly rightwards – you'll eventually end up on a great ledge at the base of a clean dihedral (this can be done in 2 rope-lengths rather than 4 pitches)

P10 – 22: Climb the dihedral.

Walk off right along the big ledge (one section where you need to take care).

Onsight Free Ascent by Guy Paterson-Jones and Hilton Davies on 31 March 2012. Grades given:
P1 : solo
P2 : 25 (maybe 24)
P3 : 20
P4 : 23
P5-P9: moderate
P10 : 22

Lower Buttresses

2012-07-04T17:00:23Z

Hilton:

==='''Fun Factory 24'''===
Venster Buttress, Table Mountain

About the steepest rock on the lower buttresses, at the far right of the Venster Buttress.
Start about 3m right of ''Pappadum'', directly under the apex of the roof system above. Has some wild moves and plenty of exposure.

'''Pitch 1 30m 20:'''

Climb up the face about 3m right of the featured arete, tending slightly right through a vague V-shaped recess (created by blocks on the prow) and then easily up to a stance about 5m below the roofs.

'''Pitch 2 20m 24:'''

Head up past a huge rectangular block and then rail about 2m right at the base of a roof until able to pull up into the corner. At the ceiling, traverse right over the void and pull up to next rail. Move further right and balance up to establish on a small platform. Finish up and slightly right to a ledge.

Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos, 26 Mar 2011

'''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
 

==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

'''Start:''' From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.

Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.

'''Pitch 1 30m 17:'''

Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.

'''Pitch 2 10m 22:'''

A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.

'''Pitch 3 30m 23:'''

Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.

'''Pitch 4 20m 22:'''

Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.

Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010

==='''Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress'''===

Earlier ascents of this or similar lines have occurred but have not been written up. The route provides an nice straight line up steep rock. Unfortunatley while the second pitch provides fun climbing, the rock is rather vegitated. Hopefully more ascents will clean it up some what. The third pitch makes up for it, with great moves on an exposed wall.
Start in obvious recess 10m right of the start of Fraser’s Frontal.

'''Pitch 1 20m F2:'''

Starting at the wide crack, climb straight up clean rock, crossing two ledges to a stance beneath a roof, 4m left of the first stance on Fraser’s

'''Pitch 2 40m F3:'''

Climb up to the roof, passing it on the right. Climb approx. 10m up the (mossy) wall above to a ledge. Above & to the right is a small overhang capped by a nose. This nose can be passed on the either side but it’s more fun on the right. Climb diagonally right up the mossy wall until one reaches a prominent rail level with the 2nd stance of Frasers. Travers right to the same stance.

'''Pitch 3 35m G1/2:'''

Above is a shallow scoop running up the centre of the obviuos flat wall. A third of the way up the wall is a prominent arrow head flake (more solid than it looks !) Start beneath the flake, climbing diagonally leftward for about 5m before moving rightwards up to the flake. Climb onto the flake & then straight up the scoop above on small holds. Some small Camalots – around C3 # 0 – are very useful for this section. The wall is topped by a roof split by a hanging open book. Pull strenously up this to the top.

'''First ascent:'''

Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005

[[File:Lefthall-1.JPG]]
[[File:Lefthall-2.JPG]]

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

Fountain Ledge

2012-07-04T16:51:40Z

Hilton:

=== '''TATWOC 25''' ===

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.

[[Image:TATWOC_with_direct_finish_web_l.png|200px|thumb|right|'''TATWOC 25+ and Africa Edge 21 and Touch and Go 19''']]

'''Pitch 1 20m 23:'''

Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.

'''Pitch 2 20m 23:'''

Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
Pitch 3 25m 21:
Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.

'''Pitch 4 25m 25:'''

Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)

'''Descent:''' The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.

'''First ascent:''' 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!

First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008

=== '''Africa Edge 21''' ===

'''Start:''' Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.

'''Pitch 1 12m 16'''

Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
[[Image:Africa_Edge_1st_pitch.png|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 1''']]

[[Image:Africa_Edge_pitch_2_variations.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 2'''and pitches 3 to 5 on next buttress with the variations shown.]]

'''Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22'''

Ahead is the next buttress.

Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.

'''Pitches 3 to 5'''

[[Image:Africa_Edge_Pitches_3_to_5_V4.png|200px|thumb|left|Africa Edge Pitches 3 to 5]]
'''Pitch 3 20m 21:'''

Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.

'''Pitch 4 15m 20'''

Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.

'''Pitch 5 20m 22'''

Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.

'''First ascent: January 2009'''

Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick.
Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein
Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein

==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 15m 18:'''

From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.

'''Pitch 2 35m 21:'''

Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.

'''Pitch 3 35m 16:'''

Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009

==='''La Vida 21'''===

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 18:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.

Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.

'''Pitch 3 10m 19:'''

From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.

'''Pitch 4 8m 18:'''

Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.

'''Pitch 5 30m 20:'''

Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.

Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009

==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''=== [[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 19:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.

'''Pitch 3 10m 21:'''

Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".

'''Pitch 4 30m 22 or 22+:'''

Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".

Or climb straight through the roof on REM and higher up pull through the overlap 2m left of the crux of the dream.

'''Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:'''

Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.

'''Pitch 6 20m 18:'''

Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010

==='''Roulette Arête 25,A2'''===

'''Start:''' At the extreme left end of Upper Fountain Ledge where one goes around the bulge to get to the start of Jacob's Ladder.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Climb the middle of the Roulette wall heading directly up and into the overhanging peapod. On the first rail head out left then up to the Roulette platform to stance.

'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''

Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.

'''Pitch 3 35m 19:'''

Head directly up. The route follows the proudest bulge on chicken heads and edges. Place gear when available. Not much to be had.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

File:Roulette Arete.JPG

2012-07-04T16:48:45Z

Hilton:

File:Two Cents Slab upper section.JPG

2009-06-01T15:11:32Z

Hilton:

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2009-04-03T13:08:56Z

Hilton: Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge ending at Lower Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain

Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge ending at Lower Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain

File:Fountain Fandango, 21.JPG

2009-02-24T13:44:30Z

Hilton:

Lion's Head

2009-02-16T14:58:34Z

Hilton:

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Note that some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope, always put a knot in the end of the rope). A visiting Scottish climber lost his life due to this aspect. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Lion's Head Granite ==
== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness /23 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Teatime is Over 7a/24 1B
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

== Lion's Head Sandstone ==
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== Routes ==

Most of the routes are described in journals of the Mountain Club of South Africa. A guide book for Lion's Head is going to hit the shelves soon.

== Very New Routes ==

Power Struggle Area

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.

POWER STRUGGLE 23 20m Natural

This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

COLD WAR 16 20m Natural

This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

KALASHNIKOV 18 20m Natural

This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

POLITICAL SOLUTION 16 20m Natural

This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line. The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

Geo-Cache Sector

JOHNNY CACHE (22/23)
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

JOHNNY CACHE WIMP-OUT (18)
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

FELIX (19)
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

SCRATCH POLE (15)
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

Silvermine Crags

2009-01-26T10:55:38Z

Hilton: /* Lower Silvermine Crag */

[[image:Map_ct_silver.gif|right]]
Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawltey Towers for some harder stuff.
*±80 single pitch sport routes
*Grades 4 to 7b+
*10 to 25 minute walk-in
These are some of the best crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, superb rock quality and brilliant routes.

== Season ==
All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are '''higher than 25m'''.

== The climbing ==
Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

== Getting There ==
From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R15 to get into the reserve (January 2009). A Wild card also gets you in.
Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.[http://www.capenature.org.za/index.php?fArticleId=10]

== Areas ==
=== Lower Silvermine Crag ===
[[Image:Silverminelower.gif]]

Routes from L to R
Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the abseil point. The are abseil anchors which you can use to safely get you to the base of the crag. NB: You have to abseil to get to this crag.

*A - Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B,C) M Gowans
*B - Vortex 6a+/20 (7B,C) T Lourens
*C - Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B,C)
*D - Nimbus 6a/19 (6B,C)
*D.25 - Lord of The Ring 16 (10B,C), Brad Davies. A fantastic introductory route, closely bolted.
*D.50 - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
*D.75 - a new route to the right of My Precious,21, Sean Maasch
*E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)
*E.50 - Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
*F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)
*G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)
*H - Rough Rider 15 (6B,C)
*I - Flakes 15 (6B,C)
*J - Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B,C)
*K - Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B,C)
*L - Odideah 6a/18 (8B,C)
*M - Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B,C)
*N - The Gift /16 (7B,C)
*O - Hard as it Gets 17 (7B,C)
*P - Wings of Desire (Project) (3B,C)
*Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19 (6B,C)

=== Blaze of Glory ===
Routes from L to R

*Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m
*Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m
*Drop Zone 6a/19 15m
*Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m
*Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m
*Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m
*Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m
*Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m

=== Silvermine Main Crag ===
'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Mind the Gap 21''' (12 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005 to the left of Argent
* '''Argent''' 16 Richard Behne
* '''Argentum''' 19 Richard Behne
* '''Jono Gordon's Route''' 22 Jono Gordon This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Mercury''' 26 Richard Behne This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Pistolero''' 20 Patrick McCann
* '''Josie Get Your Gun''' 21 Patrick McCann Hard if you're short
* '''Cool Hand Luke''' 18 Patrick McCann
* '''Male Country''' 24 Jayson Orton
* '''No Man's Land''' 24 John Alexander
* '''Sterling Silver''' 21 John Alexander A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Revealyomango''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Train Spotting''' 28 Guy Holwill
* '''Silver Streak''' 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
* '''Dragonfly''' 26 Mike Roberts
* '''Trance Dance''' 23 Malcolm Gowans
* '''Kirika ''' 23 Greg Hart, 2006 The grey streaks, crack and roof right of Trance Dance. The first two bolts are not in the best of rock.

'''Photos'''

[[Image:SterlingSilver.JPG|frame|center|Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke]]

[[Image:KeithOnSterling.jpg|frame|center|Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies]]

=== Fawltey Towers ===
To get to Fawltey Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.

From left to right:
* '''Moose's Head''' 23 Guy Holwill
* '''The Psychiatrist''' 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Corked''' 19 Jayson Orton
* '''Duck Surprise''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Communication Breakdown''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Lemonade''' 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
* '''Playin' Hookie''' 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
* '''Sthpoonz''' 20 Jayson Orton
* '''Waldorf Salad''' 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
* '''Brahm's Third Racket''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Basil the Rat''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Toreador of Torquay''' 21 Patrick McCann
* '''name?''' 21/22 It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling.
* '''False Alarm''' 26 Jayson Orton
* '''Don't Mention the War''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Fire Alarm 23''' (7 bolts) Scott Miller, February 2005
* '''The Germans''' 27 Guy Holwill
* '''Bravest Orangutan in Britain''' 22 Gordon Forbes
* '''Not Yet Major''' 25 Guy Holwill
* '''Lord Melbury''' 25 Robyn Holwill
* '''Boff''' 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Poff''' 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)

[[Image:FawlteyTowers.jpg|center|frame|Climbing at Fawltey Towers]]
[[Image:LordMelburyUndercling.jpg|center|frame|Battling the undercling on ''Lord Melbury'']]