South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Spitzkoppe & Pontoks

2012-02-02T19:34:46Z

Jacobkn:

[[File:Sptiz4a.JPG]]

The inselberg Spitzkoppe in Namibia is one of three granite plutons in southern Africa. The others are Sheba's Breast in Swaziland and Paarl Rock. These were formed by subterranean volcanic activity years ago and were slowly exposed as the surrounding ground eroded away. The word "inselberg" means, literally, island mountain, and apt description of Spitzkoppe. Not only does it, like Paarl Rock, stand out from the surrounding plain, it is also truly isolated. One has to travel through kilometers of flat remorselessly hot, treeless desert to get there and the first thing most people do on reaching the berg is to spend some time just soaking up the shade. Spitzkoppe is well worth visiting just to drink in the incredible scenery. However, many visitors have more exciting agendas. The bird watching is excellent as, although there is no standing water the trees at the foot of the berg make this a veritable oasis and the long. sheer granite faces offer some of the best climbing on the subcontinent.

== The climbing ==
Many of the nicely rounded domes offer exciting but safe scrambling for the not too-adventurous and offer spectacular views from their summits. Ore skilled climbers can plan a long climbing holiday with out ever leaving this one small spot. Naturally protected pitched of 200m or more, ranging from a relatively easy grade 16 to an exacting grade 24, are plentiful and there are a number of sport climbing pitches as well.

== Getting there ==
To get there, take the B2 which leads from Swakopmund to Okahandja, then turn off to Uis Mine on the 1930 (this is a road number, not a date) and follow the gravel road for bout 20 km. The turn-off to the Spitzkoppe is on your left. It's hard to get lost - you can see the berg for miles.

== Food and accommodation ==
For many years this was a favourite spot for just camping out in the open wherever you found a spot, but the local community has recently built a basic campsite with fireplaces, refuse bins and pit toilets. (Probably as a reaction to the inability of many urbanites to camp hygenically in the wilderness.) It is still pretty casual though. You just rock up (no pun intended) and take any available site. If you fancy a more cultural experience, you may rent one of the purpose-built traditional Damara-style huts. This is still an out-of-the-way spot, though, so take all your own supplies, including water.

Check out natron.net for camping & prices

== Guide Books / Articles ==
Spitzkoppe and Pontoks, Namibia - A Climber's Paradise, 2010 ([http://www.samountainsport.co.za/bluemountain/books.php?CatID=14 Blue Mountain Publishers])

Spitzkoppe & Pontoks - a climber's guide by Eckhardt Haber, 2001 (Blue Mountain Publishers) A comprehensive traditional and sport climbing guide to Spitzkoppe and Pontoks in Namibia (Out of print)

[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Spitzkoppe_RD_Extracts_MCSA_Journals.pdf Some RD’s and Journal articles not in Eckhardt Haber’s route guide]

[http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/namibia.htm Alards Big Wall Climbing Page]

[http://www.climb.co.za/2010/02/royale-flush/ Trip report of a route on the SW Wall, Royal Flush]

== References ==
The information above is an taken from an article published in the Sunday Times by Jennifer Stern.

File:Sptiz4a.JPG

2012-02-02T19:32:49Z

Jacobkn: Spitzkoppe and Pontoks, Namibia

Spitzkoppe and Pontoks, Namibia

Kobokwe Gorge

2012-02-02T19:08:35Z

Jacobkn:

Kobokwe Gorge is near Molepolole in [[Botswana]], just off the road to Thamaga.

[[File:Molepolole.jpg]]

There is a path up to Livingstone & Sechele's cave, and there are climbs beside the cave entrance and further round to the right.

==Getting There==
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.431377, 25.533019|Kobokwe Gorge
</display_points>

*Kobokwe Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.431377|25.533019|Kobokwe+Gorge}}

[[Category:Botswana]]

Motlhabaneng

2012-02-02T19:07:40Z

Jacobkn:

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern [[Botswana]].

==Eastern Tower==

[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

[[Image:Mot1.JPG|600px]]
*2 BABIRWA LINE 16 (N) 25m **
Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.
First Ascent Carl Bauer 2009

*3 MAVENDA LINE 23 (N) 25m ***
Located on the North face of the south tower is an obvious open book about halfway up. There is a very tricky overhang with a crack running through it to get over. Only toproped so far using aid to get over the overhang.

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-22.203213, 28.849642 |Motlhabaneng
</display_points>



*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

[[Category:Botswana]]

Tswapong Hills

2012-02-02T19:07:14Z

Jacobkn:

The Tswapong Hills are to the North of Gaborone [[Botswana]], and contain many gorges.

[[Image:Tswapong 0678.JPG|350px]]

This image is near the village of Mosweu

==Getting There==
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-22.647334, 27.630632| Tswapong Hills Approx
</display_points>


*A Tswapong Hills: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

NB exact location to be confirmed

[[Category:Botswana]]

Moshupa and Thamaga

2012-02-02T19:06:42Z

Jacobkn:

[[Image:Thamaga3918.JPG|600px]]

Lots of bouldering opportunities exist in these two villages just off the main road from Gaborone to Kanye, [[Botswana]]

==Getting There==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.775164, 25.422507|Moshupa
-24.663047, 25.538192|Thamaga
</display_points>



*A Moshupa: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*B Thamaga: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}

[[Category:Botswana]]

Kanye

2012-02-02T19:06:18Z

Jacobkn:

[[Image:Kanye 1124.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.952782, 25.335712| Kanye Gorge
</display_points>



*A Kanye Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}

[[Category:Botswana]]

Mogonye

2012-02-02T19:05:51Z

Jacobkn:

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

[[Image:Mogonye_routes.jpg|800px]]

The cliffs are North facing, so best for winter climbing. The walk in takes just over an hour.

*1 LETLHALE 15 (N) 45m
To the right of the gulley and left of the overhangs take the most obvious route up going round a large block at midheight.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

*2 UNNAMED 16 (N) 50m (2 pitches) **
Follow obvious fractured open book over large blocks and past small tree to get to the large, spacious ledge/walkway half way up the cliff – a good place for a first stance as the next section is way off-line to the left. Walk across to the face on the left to set up second stance at a cracked boulder sitting on the ledge. Head up over a poorly protected yet interesting vault-type move that takes you over horizontal cracks and into an open book at the bottom of the obvious narrow crack on the pillar face. Admit defeat to the chossy crack and continue up open book on the left. A number of slings are required here to reduce rope drag. Climb out from between the large jutting block on the left and the main cliff face. Once atop the block follow the obvious line to your left, which takes you to the top. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*3 UNNAMED 18 (N) 50m (2 pitches) ***
Start off on the boulder and head diagonally up and to the right. Traverse through an unpleasant bushy section to end up beneath the obvious large chimney. Climb straight up through yet more bushes on the left of the small pillar to gain a small ledge at the base of the chimney – Beware of wasp nests!! Climb up chimney (good hex, nut and cam placements in the cracks) and make a tricky exit at the top, mostly using holds on the left-hand face and a foothold on the right’. Excellent stance in the cave directly above the chimney, with a sling thread anchor and spacious ledges. Traverse right along the ledge/walkway to the second stance at the base of another obvious chimney, protectable with mid-range cams. Head up through the chimney (both small and large cams go well) and straight up along the obvious fracture line which turns into a blocky gulley towards the top. Excellent boulder and tree anchors just below the summit. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*4 NKA MO DIRA 16 (N) 50m
To the left of the drip through the break in the overhangs to a stance in a recess. From here back out through the crack at the back of the recess and up the pillar and flake to the right.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

*5 UNNAMED 19 (TR) 40m
Direct line up through the less steep overhangs. Nice climbing.

*6 UNNAMED 21 (TR) 40m
Direct line up through one of the largest roofs. Looks improbable but there are good horizontal breaks where you need them.

*7 DIKELEDI 17 (N) 40m
To the left of the largest set of overhangs. Up under the leftmost overhang before the recess. There is a small jump off a ledge to a large ledge (unless you're tall) then up to the left of the overhang there is a recess. Come back out right before the tree on a ledge. Take short clean 90 degree open book for the crux finish to ledge on right of open book. Done in 2 pitches.

First Ascent Carl Bauer Jan 2010

* DESCENT ROUTE - Leopard’s Lair Escape Gulley
Large, obvious bushy gulley situated between lines 1 and 2. Scramble and down-climb past a narrow, deep cave. Bear left as you’re walking down (West) and down climb a tricky section to end up in the leaning tree. Continue down past the larger cave to a small tree on the edge of a steep rock dropoff. Rapell off this tree, over the boulder and down. Rope pulls easily.

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.83882, 25.66291|Mannyelanong Cliffs
-24.85917, 25.68662|Mmamotshwane Gorge
</display_points>



*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

[[Category:Botswana]]

Mmopane Hill

2012-02-02T19:05:11Z

Jacobkn:

Mmopane Hill is located close to Gaborone Airport in [[Botswana]]

[[Image:Mmopane_6991a.JPG|600px]]

==Getting There==
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.557102, 25.880342|[[Mmopane Hill]]
</display_points>



*A Mmopane Hill: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}

[[Category:Botswana]]

Kgale Hill

2012-02-02T19:04:10Z

Jacobkn:

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas and several anchors and bolted routes. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope, though you may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. In over ten years of climbing, we have had one incident of a non-violent mugging of two climbers (2011 - no climbing equipment taken) - please don't take valuables when climbing. The rocks are sometimes used by traditional churches, please act respectfully.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.
{{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 12 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 21 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top. The left is the standard route and has the chains at the top. The right hand variation has a slightly harder step across move onto a sloping shelf.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 24 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained climbing.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it but easier on the overhanging bulges.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005. Also lead on trad Carl Bauer 2009.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section. Very dodgy gear for the face on the first section.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. MAPALASTINA 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. KWANTLE 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. ITEKA 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. SEKOPO 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

First Ascent: Falco Filotto 2010

15. BEIBELE 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

MOLORA 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

MENO 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

MARININI 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

[[Category:Botswana]]

Botswana

2012-02-01T17:11:29Z

Jacobkn: /* Getting There */

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the [[Kobokwe Gorge]] in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.689739, 25.8743|[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571, 25.88034|[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882, 25.66291|[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782, 25.335712|[[Kanye]]
-24.775164, 25.422507|[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
-24.431377, 25.533019|[[Kobokwe Gorge]]}}
</display_points>



* [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
* [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
* [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
* [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
* [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
* [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
* [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}
* [[Kobokwe Gorge]]: {{maplinks|-24.431377|25.533019|Kobokwe+Gorge}}
* [[Tswapong Hills]]: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html. This information has now all been transferred onto the wiki and more.

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Kobokwe Gorge

2012-02-01T17:05:53Z

Jacobkn:

File:Molepolole.jpg

2012-02-01T17:01:21Z

Jacobkn: uploaded a new version of "File:Molepolole.jpg"

Kobokwe Gorge near Molepolole, Botswana

Kobokwe Gorge

2012-02-01T16:58:57Z

Jacobkn: Created page with "Kobokwe Gorge is near Molepolole, just off the road to Thamaga. File:Molepolole.jpg There is a path up to Livingstone & Sechele's cave, and there are climbs beside the c..."

Kobokwe Gorge is near Molepolole, just off the road to Thamaga.

[[File:Molepolole.jpg]]

There is a path up to Livingstone & Sechele's cave, and there are climbs beside the cave entrance and further round to the right.

==Getting There==
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.431377, 25.533019|Kobokwe Gorge
</display_points>

*Kobokwe Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.431377|25.533019|Kobokwe+Gorge}}

File:Molepolole.jpg

2012-02-01T16:53:11Z

Jacobkn: uploaded a new version of "File:Molepolole.jpg"

Kobokwe Gorge near Molepolole, Botswana

File:Molepolole.jpg

2012-02-01T16:45:14Z

Jacobkn: Kobokwe Gorge near Molepolole, Botswana

Kobokwe Gorge near Molepolole, Botswana

Botswana

2012-02-01T16:40:38Z

Jacobkn:

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the [[Kobokwe Gorge]] in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.689739, 25.8743|[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571, 25.88034|[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882, 25.66291|[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782, 25.335712|[[Kanye]]
-24.775164, 25.422507|[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
</display_points>



*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
*F [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*G [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}
*H [[Tswapong Hills]]: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html. This information has now all been transferred onto the wiki and more.

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Test

2012-02-01T14:06:28Z

Jacobkn:

Test map of South Africa routes

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">

Western Cape
-31,12| Du Toit's Kloof
-31,12| Bain's Kloof
-32.136083, 19.003167| Cederberg
-31,12| Montagu
-31,12| Swellendam
-31,12| Swartberg Pass
-34.075428, 18.400680| Silvermine Crags
-33.957323, 18.403806| Table Mountain
-33.935097, 18.389091| Lions Head
-33.742638, 18.944238| Paarl Rocks
-31,12| Oudtshoorn
-31,12| Karbonaatjieskraal
-31,12| Kleinmond
-32.324193, 18.321437| Elands Bay (guess)

Eastern Cape
-34.209668, 24.827499| Cape St Francis
-32.680127, 26.489441| Fort Fordyce approx
-32.595174, 26.932255| Hogsback approx
-32.703172, 28.335967| Morgan Bay approx
-31,12| Pinnacle Gorge
-31,12| The Shire
-31,12| Howissen's Poort/Scoops
-31,12| Windmill Hole
-31,12| NSA, East London
-31,12| Buffalo River

Free State
-31,12| Langberg
-28.152119, 29.156987| Harrismith - Eagle Mountain (formally known as Mount Everest)
-28.348343, 29.274631| Swinburne approx

KwaZulu Natal
-29.871987, 30.728844| Shongweni - The Wave Cave (approx)
-31,12| Monteseel
-31,12| Kloof Gorge
-31,12| Drakensberg
-31,12| White Umfolozi River
-31,12| Howick Falls
-31,12| Umgeni Valley
-31,12| Winston Park

Limpopo Province
-23.075497, 28.981787| Blouberg approx
-23.9411, 28.9163| Wellingtons Dome
-31,12| Makapansgat

Mpumalanga
-25.643233, 30.329406| Waterval Boven
-31,12| Sabie Gorge
-31,12| Blydepoort
-31,12| Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek
-31,12| Wilgerpoort not found
-26.685886, 30.692174| Ngwempisi
-31,12| GoldRush Bouldering
-31,12| Croc River Canyon

Gauteng
-31,12| Bronkies
-25.539298, 28.458876| Bobbejaans Berg approx
-31,12| Melville Koppies
-31,12| The Glade
-31,12| Northcliff
-31,12| Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering
-25.807585, 27.905605| Radioactive
-31,12| Strubens Valley
-31,12| Strubens 2
-25.723013, 27.849498| The Chosspile

Northwest Province
-25.845255, 27.496380| Magaliesberg
-31,12| Potchefstroom Crag
-31,12| Wigwam
-25.647891, 27.816262| Secret Garden Bouldering very approx

Namibia
-21.835489, 15.197130| Spitzkoppe & Pontoks
-31,12| Aussenkehr

Botswana
-24.689739, 25.8743| Kgale Hill
-24.5571, 25.88034| Mmopane Hill
-24.83882, 25.66291| Mogonye
-24.85917, 25.68662| Mogonye
-24.952782, 25.335712| Kanye
-24.775164, 25.422507| Moshupa and Thamaga
-24.663047, 25.538192| Moshupa and Thamaga
-22.647334, 27.630632| Tswapong Hills
</display_points>

Motlhabaneng

2012-02-01T13:55:41Z

Jacobkn: /* Getting There */

Tswapong Hills

2012-02-01T13:54:10Z

Jacobkn: /* Getting There */

Moshupa and Thamaga

2012-02-01T13:51:38Z

Jacobkn: /* Getting There */

Kanye

2012-02-01T13:50:14Z

Jacobkn: /* Getting There */

Mogonye

2012-02-01T13:48:19Z

Jacobkn: /* Getting There */

Mmopane Hill

2012-02-01T13:44:25Z

Jacobkn:

Botswana

2012-02-01T13:41:08Z

Jacobkn:

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.689739, 25.8743|[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571, 25.88034|[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882, 25.66291|[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782, 25.335712|[[Kanye]]
-24.775164, 25.422507|[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
</display_points>



*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
*F [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*G [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}
*H [[Tswapong Hills]]: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html. This information has now all been transferred onto the wiki and more.

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Botswana

2012-02-01T07:06:54Z

Jacobkn:

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-24.689739, 25.8743|[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571, 25.88034|[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882, 25.66291|[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782, 25.335712|[[Kanye]]
-24.775164, 25.422507|[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
</display_points>

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.5237" lon="25.927734" zoom="7">
(A) -24.689739, 25.8743, Kgale Hill
Kgale Hill
(B) -24.5571, 25.88034, Mmopane Hill
Mmopane Hill
(C) -24.83882, 25.66291, Mogonye
Mannyelanong Cliffs, Mogonye
(D) -24.85917, 25.68662, Mogonye
Mmamotshwane Gorge, Mogonye
(E) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
Kanye Gorge
(F) -24.775164, 25.422507, Moshupa and Thamaga
Moshupa
(G) -24.663047, 25.538192, Moshupa and Thamaga
Thamaga
(H) -22.647334, 27.630632, Tswapong Hills
Tswapong Hills
</googlemap>

*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
*F [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*G [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}
*H [[Tswapong Hills]]: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html. This information has now all been transferred onto the wiki and more.

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Kgale Hill

2012-02-01T06:59:00Z

Jacobkn:

Kgale Hill

2012-02-01T06:58:29Z

Jacobkn:

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas and several anchors and bolted routes. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope, though you may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. In over ten years of climbing, we have had one incident of a non-violent mugging of two climbers (2011 - no climbing equipment taken) - please don't take valuables when climbing. The rocks are sometimes used by traditional churches, please act resepectfully.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.
{{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 12 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 21 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top. The left is the standard route and has the chains at the top. The right hand variation has a slightly harder step across move onto a sloping shelf.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 24 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained climbing.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it but easier on the overhanging bulges.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005. Also lead on trad Carl Bauer 2009.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section. Very dodgy gear for the face on the first section.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. MAPALASTINA 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. KWANTLE 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. ITEKA 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. SEKOPO 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

First Ascent: Falco Filotto 2010

15. BEIBELE 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

MOLORA 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

MENO 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

MARININI 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

File:Mogonye routes.jpg

2010-02-02T18:35:09Z

Jacobkn: uploaded a new version of "Image:Mogonye routes.jpg"

Mogonye Botswana

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-17T11:42:33Z

Jacobkn: /* Eastern Tower */

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern [[Botswana]].

==Eastern Tower==

[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

[[Image:Mot1.JPG|600px]]
*2 BABIRWA LINE 16 (N) 25m **
Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.
First Ascent Carl Bauer 2009

*3 MAVENDA LINE 23 (N) 25m ***
Located on the North face of the south tower is an obvious open book about halfway up. There is a very tricky overhang with a crack running through it to get over. Only toproped so far using aid to get over the overhang.

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.203213" lon=" 28.849642" zoom="13">
(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

Mogonye

2009-06-10T16:43:11Z

Jacobkn: /* Mannyelanong Cliffs */

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

[[Image:Mogonye_routes.jpg|800px]]

The cliffs are North facing, so best for winter climbing. The walk in takes just over an hour.

*1 to be added

*2 UNNAMED 16 (N) 60m (2 pitches) **
Follow obvious fractured open book over large blocks and past small tree to get to the large, spacious ledge/walkway half way up the cliff – a good place for a first stance as the next section is way off-line to the left. Walk across to the face on the left to set up second stance at a cracked boulder sitting on the ledge. Head up over a poorly protected yet interesting vault-type move that takes you over horizontal cracks and into an open book at the bottom of the obvious narrow crack on the pillar face. Admit defeat to the chossy crack and continue up open book on the left. A number of slings are required here to reduce rope drag. Climb out from between the large jutting block on the left and the main cliff face. Once atop the block follow the obvious line to your left, which takes you to the top. Walk off to an exit. First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

*3 UNNAMED 18 (N) 60m (2 pitches) ***
Start off on the boulder and head diagonally up and to the right. Traverse through an unpleasant bushy section to end up beneath the obvious large chimney. Climb straight up through yet more bushes on the left of the small pillar to gain a small ledge at the base of the chimney – Beware of wasp nests!! Climb up chimney (good hex, nut and cam placements in the cracks) and make a tricky exit at the top, mostly using holds on the left-hand face and a foothold on the right’. Excellent stance in the cave directly above the chimney, with a sling thread anchor and spacious ledges. Travesrse right along the ledge/walkway to the second stance at the base of another obvious chimney, protectable with mid-range cams. Head up through the chimney (both small and large cams go well) and straight up along the obvious fracture line which turns into a blocky gulley towards the top. Excellent boulder and tree anchors just below the summit. Walk off to an exit.

*4 to be added

*5 to be added

* DESCENT ROUTE - Leopard’s Lair Escape Gulley
Large, obvious bushy gulley situated between lines 1 and 2. Scramble and down-climb past a narrow, deep cave. Bear left as you’re walking down (West) and down climb a tricky section to end up in the leaning tree. Continue down past the larger cave to a small tree on the edge of a steep rock dropoff. Rapell off this tree, over the boulder and down. Rope pulls easily.

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
Mannyelanong Cliffs
(B) -24.85917, 25.68662
Something Gorge
6#B2758BC5
-24.83882, 25.66291
-24.831286, 25.664008
-24.824664, 25.662892
</googlemap>

*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-10T16:31:57Z

Jacobkn: /* Motlhabaneng - Masekga */

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern [[Botswana]].

==Eastern Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.203213" lon=" 28.849642" zoom="13">
(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-10T16:12:37Z

Jacobkn: /* Eastern Tower */

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area.

==Eastern Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****
Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.203213" lon=" 28.849642" zoom="13">
(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

Motlhabaneng

2009-06-10T05:36:48Z

Jacobkn: New page: ==Motlhabaneng - Masekga== 600px Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area. ==Eastern Tower== [[Image:Motlhabaneng_sout...

==Motlhabaneng - Masekga==
[[Image:Mothlabaneng_vista.jpg|600px]]

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area.

==Eastern Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_south_routes.jpg|600px]]
*1 ‘Masesotho Line’ 18 - single pitch trad. First Ascent Guy Williams 2009 ****

Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.

Requires 60m rope.

==Western Tower==
[[Image:Motlhabaneng_north.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.203213" lon=" 28.849642" zoom="13">
(A) -22.203213, 28.849642
Motlhabaneng
</googlemap>

*A Motlhabaneng: {{maplinks|-22.203213|28.849642|Motlhabaneng}}

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)

File:Motlhabaneng south routes.jpg

2009-06-10T05:29:45Z

Jacobkn:

File:Motlhabaneng north.jpg

2009-06-10T05:20:59Z

Jacobkn: Motlhabaneng Botswana

Motlhabaneng Botswana

File:Mothlabaneng vista.jpg

2009-06-10T05:19:19Z

Jacobkn: Mothlabaneng Botswana

Mothlabaneng Botswana

File:Mogonye routes.jpg

2009-06-10T05:15:15Z

Jacobkn: uploaded a new version of "Image:Mogonye routes.jpg"

Mogonye Botswana

Mogonye

2009-06-08T16:45:30Z

Jacobkn: /* Mannyelanong Cliffs */

Mogonye

2009-06-08T16:39:04Z

Jacobkn: /* Mannyelanong Cliffs */

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

[[Image:Mogonye_routes.jpg|600px]]

*1 to be added

*2 to be added

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
Mannyelanong Cliffs
(B) -24.85917, 25.68662
Something Gorge
6#B2758BC5
-24.83882, 25.66291
-24.831286, 25.664008
-24.824664, 25.662892
</googlemap>

*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

File:Mogonye routes.jpg

2009-06-08T16:31:42Z

Jacobkn: Mogonye Botswana

Mogonye Botswana

Kgale Hill

2009-05-27T05:21:14Z

Jacobkn:

Kgale Hill is in Gaborone [[Botswana]].The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

[[Image:Kgale_2.jpg]]

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

== Getting There ==
Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.
{{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}

== The Black Rocks ==
This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

[[Image:Blacktc.jpg]]

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

===TRIPLE CHIN AREA===

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top, both about the same level of difficulty.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 23 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained face climbing

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section.

Climbed on top rope only.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

===CUBICLE AREA===

[[Image:blackright.jpg]]

7. DIPILO TSA PELA 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (N) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer May 2009.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. PELA PAPA 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

12. PELA KWA PELE 16 (N) 18m

Around the corner to the right of the previous route is a slab with a layback corner at the right edge. Go up the layback and then traverse left 2m and follow the fault up to the chains for Hannibal's Lobotomy

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2009.

==THE RED ROCKS==

This area is above and to the left of the black rocks and the climbs are longest at the left hand side facing the rock and shortest at the right as the height tapers to nothing.

[[Image:redleft2.jpg]]

1a. THOKO VARIATION 15 (N,A) 24m

The route starts and ends as for Thoko but avoids the crux block by going round the left of it.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

1. THOKO 20 (TR,A) 24m

The route starts on the left of the red area. Climb up the first block and from here move up to a small alcove under a right leaning crack. Climb this crack with difficulty (crux) to get on top of the second set of blocks. From here climb to the steep granulated ramp and traverse this to the right.

Climbed on top rope only

2. MORUBISI 16 (N,A) 23m

The route starts to the right of Thoko. Climb up the first block and from here move up the crack filled with chockstones with a face to your right to finish at the same place as Thoko. Slings round chockstones make good pro.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

3. PHATLA 19 (N) 22m

The route starts to the right of Morubisi. Climb up the first block and from here climb the thin crack in the large boulder to get onto this boulder. From here climb the overhanging layback crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Jacob Knight Nov 2007.

4. LATLHA 15 (N) 20m

The route starts to the right of Phatla. Climb up the gulley between boulder and face to a ledge and then up the jumbled rocks in the gulley.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho 2004.

5. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 19m

The route starts 2m to the left of Kwela. Climb up the first block and from here keep to the face without using the blocks to the left crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on very thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

6. KWELA 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts right under the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. Climb up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here climb to the left of the tree between the rock and a branch. Without using the tree this is the crux. Continue up the left hand side of the crack on the arete. The variation to this is to climb using the crack after getting above the tree.

Climbed on top rope

7. UNNAMED 20 (TR) 19m

The route starts as for Kwela up to the ledge right under the shepherds tree. From here move out onto the slab to the right and keep to the middle of the slab crossing one horizontal crack line. This climb is on thin face holds.

Climbed on top rope only

8. KO GAE 17 (N) 19m

The route can be easily found by locating the large shepherd’s tree growing from the rock about 5m above the base of the cliff. To the right of this there is a large downward pointing flake on the side of a crack. Climb up the crack and over the flake. Follow the crack straight up to the higher shepherd’s tree growing from the rock face at the top of the cliff.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho. May 2003.

9. NEXT DOOR 15 (N,A) 20m

This route starts about 4m to the right of Ko Gae and goes up some blocks to the right of a slightly projecting nose. Step round or climb up over the nose. From here head for the finish of Ko Gae. The crux is at the start where some jamming in the crack is required. A more interesting alternative near the top is to make the airy step left around the nose and then climb back right over the top of it.

First Ascent: Anton Makgetho and Carl Bauer. May 2003.

10. PLUMBLINE 22 (6B,A) 18m

The route goes up the middle of the face to the right of Next Door starting up the thin crack. The route goes directly up using a combination of thin face holds and holds in the crack surmounting a small overhanging lip near the top.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

11. RUSTY HINGE 20 (6B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from plumbline. It moves up the wide open book and over the block in the middle by the use of sideways and undercut holds.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005. Now also led on trad gear by Robert Daffe 2005.

12. UNNAMED 25 (7B,A) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the face with the crux near the bottom.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005

13. SCRAPE 20 (TR) 18m

The route is round the corner to the right from rusty hinge. It moves up the obvious off width crack. An infuriating crack bound to take some skin off.

Climbed on top rope only

14. UNNAMED 23 (TR,A) 16m

Facing scrape there is a face with a blank start up to a ledge. Start round to the left and hand traverse onto the ledge to gain the crack. Then straight up the crack to the chains at the top.

Climbed on top rope only

15. UNNAMED 17 (N,A) 14m

At the far right hand side of the red rocks the route goes up the first obvious crack at the back of a shallow open book to chains at the top

First Ascent: Robert Daffe. April 2005.

==THE UPPER TIER==

There are a number of interesting climbs in this area but it gets very hot on a summer afternoon.

[[Image:uppertier.jpg]]

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 18m

Just around the corner from Rotisserie is a flared crack leading up to a cubby hole under a block. Start by traversing into the crack on the ledge from the left by balancy moves. From here go up the crack to the cubby hole.

ROTISSERIE 21 (N) 13m

At the far left hand side of the top area is a buttress facing West with a short leaning offwidth crack in it and a couple of horizontal cracks. From the large blocks at the base of the offwidth do a hand traverse left to the smaller vertical crack. Climb this to another horizontal ledge and then to the top strenusously.

HOT DOG 18 (TR) 10m

Take the offwidth crack directly to the top

PIZZA 21 (TR) 13m

To the right of Hot dog there is a slab which can be taken directly to the top with a difficult start on thin holds.

TSELA 18 (N) 22m

To the left of aperture there is a small finger crack up to a ledge followed by a larger crack.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer 2004.

APERTURE 19 (N) 22m

At the left side of the upper tier there is a splayed recess under a roof. The climb goes up to the roof and then out under the roof to the right. Requires a couple of big friends for protection of the roof.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe and Carl Bauer April 2005.

MACLEANS 20 (N,A) 25m

This is a trad climb variation to colgate which requires you to go up the crack at the left to place pro before exiting at the same flake as colgate.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe May 2005.

COLGATE 21 (7B,A) 25m

There is a buttress in the middle of the upper tier with a very large projecting block on the top and a flake on it's left side. This sports climb starts directly under the flake and has an interesting ending squeezing out between the flake and the block.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe April 2005.

UNNAMED 22 (TR) 21m

Around the corner from Colgate is a face with a crack on the right near a vertical block. Take the crack up to the blank face. The slightly sloping face is difficult.

Climbed on top rope only.

UNNAMED 20 (TR) 18m

The next buttress has a prominent ridge which can be climbed to the top.

Test

2009-05-26T17:09:35Z

Jacobkn: New page: Test map of South Africa routes <googlemap version="0.9" lat="-28.420391" lon="22.543945" zoom="5"> Western Cape -31,12, Du Toit's Kloof -31,12, Bain's Kloof -32.136083, 19.003167, Cederb...

Test map of South Africa routes

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-28.420391" lon="22.543945" zoom="5">
Western Cape
-31,12, Du Toit's Kloof
-31,12, Bain's Kloof
-32.136083, 19.003167, Cederberg
-31,12, Montagu
-31,12, Swellendam
-31,12, Swartberg Pass
-34.075428, 18.400680, Silvermine Crags
-33.957323, 18.403806, Table Mountain
-33.935097, 18.389091, Lions Head
-33.742638, 18.944238, Paarl Rocks
-31,12, Oudtshoorn
-31,12, Karbonaatjieskraal
-31,12, Kleinmond
-32.324193, 18.321437, Elands Bay (guess)

Eastern Cape
-34.209668, 24.827499, Cape St Francis
-32.680127, 26.489441, Fort Fordyce approx
-32.595174, 26.932255, Hogsback approx
-32.703172, 28.335967, Morgan Bay approx
-31,12, Pinnacle Gorge
-31,12, The Shire
-31,12, Howissen's Poort/Scoops
-31,12, Windmill Hole
-31,12, NSA, East London
-31,12, Buffalo River

Free State
-31,12, Langberg
-28.152119, 29.156987, Harrismith - Eagle Mountain (formally known as Mount Everest)
-28.348343, 29.274631, Swinburne approx

KwaZulu Natal
-29.871987, 30.728844, Shongweni - The Wave Cave (approx)
-31,12, Monteseel
-31,12, Kloof Gorge
-31,12, Drakensberg
-31,12, White Umfolozi River
-31,12, Howick Falls
-31,12, Umgeni Valley
-31,12, Winston Park

Limpopo Province
-23.075497, 28.981787, Blouberg approx
-23.9411, 28.9163, Wellingtons Dome
-31,12, Makapansgat

Mpumalanga
-25.643233, 30.329406, Waterval Boven
-31,12, Sabie Gorge
-31,12, Blydepoort
-31,12, Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek
-31,12, Wilgerpoort not found
-26.685886, 30.692174, Ngwempisi
-31,12, GoldRush Bouldering
-31,12, Croc River Canyon

Gauteng
-31,12, Bronkies
-25.539298, 28.458876, Bobbejaans Berg approx
-31,12, Melville Koppies
-31,12, The Glade
-31,12, Northcliff
-31,12, -31,12, Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering
-25.807585, 27.905605, Radioactive
-31,12, Strubens Valley
-31,12, Strubens 2
-25.723013, 27.849498, The Chosspile

Northwest Province
-25.845255, 27.496380, Magaliesberg
-31,12, Potchefstroom Crag
-31,12, Wigwam
-25.647891, 27.816262, Secret Garden Bouldering very approx

Namibia
-21.835489, 15.197130, Spitzkoppe & Pontoks
-31,12, Aussenkehr

Botswana
-24.689739, 25.8743, Kgale Hill
-24.5571, 25.88034, Mmopane Hill
-24.83882, 25.66291, Mogonye
-24.85917, 25.68662, Mogonye
-24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
-24.775164, 25.422507, Moshupa and Thamaga
-24.663047, 25.538192, Moshupa and Thamaga
-22.647334, 27.630632, Tswapong Hills
</googlemap>

Tswapong Hills

2009-05-24T07:51:55Z

Jacobkn:

The Tswapong Hills are to the North of Gaborone [[Botswana]], and contain many gorges.

[[Image:Tswapong 0678.JPG|350px]]

This image is near the village of Mosweu

==Getting There==
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-22.648552" lon="27.633362" zoom="13">
(A) -22.647334, 27.630632, Tswapong Hills
Tswapong Hills
</googlemap>

*A Tswapong Hills: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

NB exact location to be confirmed

Botswana

2009-05-24T07:48:25Z

Jacobkn:

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.5237" lon="25.927734" zoom="7">
(A) -24.689739, 25.8743, Kgale Hill
Kgale Hill
(B) -24.5571, 25.88034, Mmopane Hill
Mmopane Hill
(C) -24.83882, 25.66291, Mogonye
Mannyelanong Cliffs, Mogonye
(D) -24.85917, 25.68662, Mogonye
Mmamotshwane Gorge, Mogonye
(E) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
Kanye Gorge
(F) -24.775164, 25.422507, Moshupa and Thamaga
Moshupa
(G) -24.663047, 25.538192, Moshupa and Thamaga
Thamaga
(H) -22.647334, 27.630632, Tswapong Hills
Tswapong Hills
</googlemap>

*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
*F [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*G [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}
*H [[Tswapong Hills]]: {{maplinks|-22.647334|27.630632|Tswapong+Hills}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Botswana

2009-05-24T07:18:13Z

Jacobkn:

Most people will associate Botswana with the vast flat Kalahari Desert but there are a good number of rock outcrops around the country. Right in the capital Gaborone, there is [[Kgale Hill]] which has a number of cliffs of up to 25m high with several bolted routes as well as trad routes. About 40km to the South is the village of [[Mogonye]] with several promising cliffs which are just being explored. About 60km further South there is a group of hills surrounding a village called [[Otse]]. Other climbing areas include the gorge at [[Kanye]] (90km from Gaborone), the Kobokwe Gorge in Molepolole, and the [[Tswapong Hills]] (250km north of Gaborone) with a number of gorges in it.[[Moshupa and Thamaga]] south of Gaborone offer easily accessible bouldering. There are a surprising number of gorges and outcrops along the Eastern edge of the country, including [[Motlhabaneng]], which the Kalahari Mountain Club has been unearthing over the years.

==Getting There==
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.666986" lon="25.743713" zoom="9">
(A) -24.689739, 25.8743, Kgale Hill
Kgale Hill
(B) -24.5571, 25.88034, Mmopane Hill
Mmopane Hill
(C) -24.83882, 25.66291, Mogonye
Mannyelanong Cliffs, Mogonye
(D) -24.85917, 25.68662, Mogonye
Mmamotshwane Gorge, Mogonye
(E) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
Kanye Gorge
(F) -24.775164, 25.422507, Moshupa and Thamaga
Moshupa
(G) -24.663047, 25.538192, Moshupa and Thamaga
Thamaga
</googlemap>

*A [[Kgale Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.689739|25.874300|Kgale+Hill}}
*B [[Mmopane Hill]]: {{maplinks|-24.55710|25.88034|Mmopane+Hill}}
*C [[Mogonye]] - Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*D [[Mogonye]] - Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}
*E [[Kanye]] Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}
*F [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Moshupa]]: {{maplinks|-24.775164|25.422507|Moshupa}}
*G [[Moshupa and Thamaga|Thamaga]]: {{maplinks|-24.663047|25.538192|Thamaga}}

The most accessible climbing area is [[Kgale Hill]] which faces the new Game City shopping complex in Gaborone.

== Guide Books/References ==
RD compiled by Carl Bauer - http://www.bauerconsultbotswana.com/Climbing/climbBot1.html

== Notes ==
A word of environmental caution: Rocks in Botswana are scarce and this means that the ecosystems on these rocks are unique. If we are going to climb on them we should tread lightly. In other parts of the world where rock is plentiful rock climbers do not have access to rock because some climbers have been disrespectful of the environment. The following advice may seem obvious but it is not so to everyone:

Nesting birds should be given a wide berth. We should not climb anywhere near them as some, like the vultures at Otse, are under threat of extinction. See [http://www.birdlifebotswana.org.bw/ Birdlife Botswana's website]. There are also many unique plants and trees on and around the rocks and these should be left intact. Needless to say let's not leave litter and if you see some you could even take it away.

Kanye

2009-05-24T07:15:46Z

Jacobkn: New page: 600px ==Getting There== <googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.953923" lon="25.339451" zoom="14"> (A) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye Kanye Gorge </googlemap> *A Kanye G...

[[Image:Kanye 1124.jpg|600px]]

==Getting There==
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.953923" lon="25.339451" zoom="14">
(A) -24.952782, 25.335712, Kanye
Kanye Gorge
</googlemap>

*A Kanye Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.952782|25.335712|Kanye+Gorge}}

File:Kanye 1124.jpg

2009-05-24T07:12:27Z

Jacobkn: Kanye Gorge, Botswana

Kanye Gorge, Botswana

Mogonye

2009-05-24T07:05:51Z

Jacobkn: /* Mmamotshwane Gorge */

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
Mannyelanong Cliffs
(B) -24.85917, 25.68662
Something Gorge
6#B2758BC5
-24.83882, 25.66291
-24.831286, 25.664008
-24.824664, 25.662892
</googlemap>

*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

Mogonye

2009-05-24T07:05:11Z

Jacobkn: /* Mmamotshwane Gorge */

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, [[Botswana]]. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

==Mannyelanong Cliffs==

[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]

==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]
Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

==Getting There==

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
Mannyelanong Cliffs
(B) -24.85917, 25.68662
Something Gorge
6#B2758BC5
-24.83882, 25.66291
-24.831286, 25.664008
-24.824664, 25.662892
</googlemap>

*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
*B Mmamotshwane Gorge: {{maplinks|-24.85917|25.68662|Mmamotshwane+Gorge}}

Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.

Tswapong Hills

2009-05-24T07:02:12Z

Jacobkn: New page: The Tswapong Hills are to the North of Gaborone Botswana, and contain many gorges. 350px This image is near the village of Mosweu, exact location to be co...

The Tswapong Hills are to the North of Gaborone [[Botswana]], and contain many gorges.

[[Image:Tswapong 0678.JPG|350px]]

This image is near the village of Mosweu, exact location to be confirmed