South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Gamkaberg

2013-05-27T21:00:29Z

Johannlanz:

Gamkaberg

2013-05-27T20:56:30Z

Johannlanz:

Gamkaberg

2013-05-27T20:51:16Z

Johannlanz:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.68577
| Longitude = 21.89821
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Gamkaberg

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

[[Western Cape]]

'''Gamkaberg''' offers good quality, single and multi-pitch, trad climbing with a doddle of an approach and easy descents in beautiful, pristine surroundings, with nice, comfortable camping. A very relaxing, family-friendly venue.

''Very Important: there are potential sensitivities from reserve management about climbing at Gamkaberg, and so it is best to keep a very low profile about climbing there. Don't openly display climbing equipment around the office, camp site or walk-in and don't tell staff that you are rock climbing, simply say that you are hiking. Gamkaberg is a pristine and beautiful wilderness environment. Please climb with the respect that this place deserves at all times.

'''Don't even think about bolting anything!'''''

Gamkaberg is a nature reserve in the Little Karoo managed by Cape Nature and is located south of the R62 between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, fairly near (east of) the Calitzdorp Hot Springs. The reserve offers extremely nice (but pricey) Eco Lodge bush camp accommodation, as well as a Stables dormitory and a small ordinary camp site - all beautifully maintained and well equipped. You can also make day visits. For accommodation info and a map of how to get there see: http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves.htm?reserve=Gamkaberg+Nature+Reserve. The reserve (but not the climbing) was also featured in the March – May 2010 issue of SA Mountain Sport.

The climbing is in Tierkloof on very good quality, hard quartzitic sandstone similar to Montagu but with many beautiful, vertical finger cracks. Access is a short, level walk along a manicured hiking trail which runs up the kloof. A total of 35 routes have been opened so far, with potential for many more, both within the developed area and higher up the kloof.

For a comprehensive, updated Route Directory in pdf format click here:[https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37021273/GamkabergRD130527.pdf]

[[Image:Gamka Map.jpg]]

'''Nappy rash (16) **'''

FA: Paul Lochner & Johann Lanz April 2003

This route is located on a pillar at the base of the scree running up to the Purity wall.

20m (16): Climb more or less on the right hand aréte of the pillar, from the streambed

'''Purity (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

25m (21): Climb the leftward tending break up the main part of the lower wall and exit left onto the aréte.

The longer rightward tending break awaits a brave ascent (and/or some pegs).

'''Finger food (16) ***'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2003

This route is located towards the left hand side of the wall with multiple vertical cracks on the opposite side and slightly upstream of the Purity wall.

38m (16): Aim for the immaculate looking crack above and then climb it.

'''Forbearance (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

This route is located upstream of Finger food, around the corner on the higher south facing part of the wall. Scramble up from the stream bed and left along sloping ground below the first tier of the wall. Start towards the left side of the wall.

1. 20m (17): Climb the clean, thin, rightwards tending corner crack to the top. The next pitch starts across the ledge to the right.

2. 25m (21): Climb the leftward tending crack and break starting in the middle of the wall. Move up and slightly right into the slightly rightwards tending splitter finger crack and climb it to the ledge.

3. 20m (19): Climb straight up into the vertical finger crack running up the middle of the face and climb it to the top.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 can easily be combined into one.

'''George Pinnacle (14) ***'''

FA: Greg and Cheryl Devine, January 2012

The climb is situated on the true right under the highest part of the crag. A short flat-topped pinnacle stands 300mm away from the main wall and is about 25 metres high.

30m (14): Climb the upstream-facing corner/chimney/gap affair to the top of the pinnacle. From the top, step onto the main wall and climb up to a recess. Scramble along the upstream ledges to the gully.

'''Surprise (14) **'''

First Ascent: Greg and Cheryl Devine, January 2012

The climb is situated opposite George Pinnacle on the left of the gully, looking up. The climb has as its objective the square-cut break halfway up.

25m (14): Climb over the easy rock until the fun starts at the square, smooth chimney. Break out left at the top of this. A surprise indeed. Abseil off the obvious tree 10m short of the top.

'''Sixties Rock (14) **'''

FA: Greg and Cheryl Devine, December 2011

The climb is situated on the true right, 40 metres before Kiddies Corner and where the path enters under a thick canopy, close to the vertical rock wall. Start at a small nose at ground level. (Cairn)

25m (14): Climb straight up to a ledge with a horizontal tree. Two lines then present, a corner and a crack. The crack was climbed to the top. Walk off in a downstream direction.

'''Kiddies Corner Sector'''

'''Wail (13) **'''

FA: Sebastian Lanz April 2011

18m (13): Climb the right hand aréte and face just left of it.

'''A plus (15) ***'''

FA: Matthew Lochner April 2011

18m (15): Climb straight up the middle of the face, to the right of the Wail aréte.

'''Lightning flash (9) **'''

15m (9): Climb the crack in the face to the right of the corner, right of A plus, and continue up left past ledges.

'''Achey Flakey Fart (14) ***'''

FA: Willie Koen & Tony Lourens, Jan 2012

'''Stone Wall Sector'''

Superb climbing on an inspiring sweep of rock. Climbs described from left to right

'''Touchstone (22) *****''' (grade needs confirmation)

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

25m (22): From the ground climb left up the cubbyhole rail, then takes the crack immediately left of Written in stone and follows it through where it pinches into a seam (crux). Near the top where the wall steepens and the crack goes diagonally right, climb straight up on good holds and a clean exit onto the ledge (shared with Written in stone).

'''Written in stone (21) *****''' (grade needs confirmation)

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

25m (21): Takes the crack from the very right hand edge of the ledge & overhang cutting into the bottom left hand side of the wall, several meters above the ground. Near the top where the wall steepens and the crack goes diagonally right, cut slightly left and up on good holds and a clean exit onto the ledge (shared with Touchstone).

There are 2 combination variations on the above 2 routes. Crossing from one crack system to the other at the X on the topo allows you to either miss the crux of both routes (starting on Touchstone, and then moving right) to climb '''Stone ease (19)'''; or climb both cruxes (starting on Written in stone, and then moving left) to climb the very sustained '''Double stone (22)'''.

'''Project'''

Note: The gear on the stone wall is excellent, but it is mostly small to medium nuts, not cams, and the climbing is steep and sustained, making any lead a challenge for its grade.

'''Stone Wallah (14) ***½'''

FA: Sebastian & Johann Lanz December 2011

23m (14): The crack that starts up a corner and then through an overhang and straight up the face of the column that stands immediately to the right of the Stone wall.

'''Stone edge (16) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

23m (16): The arete immediately right of Stone wallah. Start up the tree and step onto the arete.

'''Cavegirl Crack (14) *'''

FA: Greg and Cheryl Devine, December 2011

The climb is situated on the true left. At the narrowest part of the kloof, beyond Kiddies Corner, there is a ground-level cave/overhang. Just upstream of the cave there is a sloping buttress with a wide bushy crack going all the way up.

25m (14): Climb straight up the crack, watching out for some scree halfway. The rock looks a bit dodgy but in fact isn’t and yields a surprisingly nice route. Scramble off the ledge in an upstream direction and down the gully.

'''Crystal cove 18 ** 20m'''

FA Chris Morgan-Wilson solo 15/03/2012

The climb is situated on the wall below "Jacqueline's wall"

Climb the face between the cracks and find the crystal alcove then up to the overhang , squeeze right through the gap
The sting is in the tail

[[Image:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg]]

Nappy Rash (16)

[[Image:Gamka Purity.jpg]]

Purity (21)

[[Image:Gamka Finger Food.jpg]]

Finger Food (16)

[[Image:Gamka Forebearance.jpg]]

Forebearance (17,21,19)

[[Image:Gamka Kiddies.jpg]]

Kiddies Corner with Wail (13), left & A-plus (15), right

[[Image:Gamka Stone Wall.jpg]]

The superb Stone wall: L to R: Touchstone (22); Written in stone (21); Project; Stone Wallah (14); Stone edge (16)

Gamkaberg

2013-05-27T20:40:27Z

Johannlanz:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.68577
| Longitude = 21.89821
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Gamkaberg

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

[[Western Cape]]

'''Gamkaberg''' offers good quality, single and multi-pitch, trad climbing with a doddle of an approach and easy descents in beautiful, pristine surroundings, with nice, comfortable camping. A very relaxing, family-friendly venue.

Very Important: there are potential sensitivities from reserve management about climbing at Gamkaberg, and so it is best to keep a very low profile about climbing there. Don't openly display climbing equipment around the office, camp site or walk-in and don't tell staff that you are rock climbing, simply say that you are hiking. Gamkaberg is a pristine and beautiful wilderness environment. Please climb with the respect that this place deserves at all times.

Don't even think about bolting anything!

Gamkaberg is a nature reserve in the Little Karoo managed by Cape Nature and is located south of the R62 between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, fairly near (east of) the Calitzdorp Hot Springs. The reserve offers extremely nice (but pricey) Eco Lodge bush camp accommodation, as well as a Stables dormitory and a small ordinary camp site - all beautifully maintained and well equipped. You can also make day visits. For accommodation info and a map of how to get there see: http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves.htm?reserve=Gamkaberg+Nature+Reserve. The reserve (but not the climbing) was also featured in the March – May 2010 issue of SA Mountain Sport.

The climbing is in Tierkloof on very good quality, hard quartzitic sandstone similar to Montagu but with many beautiful, vertical finger cracks. Access is a short, level walk along a manicured hiking trail which runs up the kloof. A total of 35 routes have been opened so far, with potential for many more, both within the developed area and higher up the kloof.

For a comprehensive, updated Route Directory in pdf format click here:

[[Image:Gamka Map.jpg]]

'''Nappy rash (16) **'''

FA: Paul Lochner & Johann Lanz April 2003

This route is located on a pillar at the base of the scree running up to the Purity wall.

20m (16): Climb more or less on the right hand aréte of the pillar, from the streambed

'''Purity (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

25m (21): Climb the leftward tending break up the main part of the lower wall and exit left onto the aréte.

The longer rightward tending break awaits a brave ascent (and/or some pegs).

'''Finger food (16) ***'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2003

This route is located towards the left hand side of the wall with multiple vertical cracks on the opposite side and slightly upstream of the Purity wall.

38m (16): Aim for the immaculate looking crack above and then climb it.

'''Forbearance (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

This route is located upstream of Finger food, around the corner on the higher south facing part of the wall. Scramble up from the stream bed and left along sloping ground below the first tier of the wall. Start towards the left side of the wall.

1. 20m (17): Climb the clean, thin, rightwards tending corner crack to the top. The next pitch starts across the ledge to the right.

2. 25m (21): Climb the leftward tending crack and break starting in the middle of the wall. Move up and slightly right into the slightly rightwards tending splitter finger crack and climb it to the ledge.

3. 20m (19): Climb straight up into the vertical finger crack running up the middle of the face and climb it to the top.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 can easily be combined into one.

'''George Pinnacle (14) ***'''

FA: Greg and Cheryl Devine, January 2012

The climb is situated on the true right under the highest part of the crag. A short flat-topped pinnacle stands 300mm away from the main wall and is about 25 metres high.

30m (14): Climb the upstream-facing corner/chimney/gap affair to the top of the pinnacle. From the top, step onto the main wall and climb up to a recess. Scramble along the upstream ledges to the gully.

'''Surprise (14) **'''

First Ascent: Greg and Cheryl Devine, January 2012

The climb is situated opposite George Pinnacle on the left of the gully, looking up. The climb has as its objective the square-cut break halfway up.

25m (14): Climb over the easy rock until the fun starts at the square, smooth chimney. Break out left at the top of this. A surprise indeed. Abseil off the obvious tree 10m short of the top.

'''Sixties Rock (14) **'''

FA: Greg and Cheryl Devine, December 2011

The climb is situated on the true right, 40 metres before Kiddies Corner and where the path enters under a thick canopy, close to the vertical rock wall. Start at a small nose at ground level. (Cairn)

25m (14): Climb straight up to a ledge with a horizontal tree. Two lines then present, a corner and a crack. The crack was climbed to the top. Walk off in a downstream direction.

'''Kiddies Corner Sector'''

'''Wail (13) **'''

FA: Sebastian Lanz April 2011

18m (13): Climb the right hand aréte and face just left of it.

'''A plus (15) ***'''

FA: Matthew Lochner April 2011

18m (15): Climb straight up the middle of the face, to the right of the Wail aréte.

'''Lightning flash (9) **'''

15m (9): Climb the crack in the face to the right of the corner, right of A plus, and continue up left past ledges.

'''Achey Flakey Fart (14) ***'''

FA: Willie Koen & Tony Lourens, Jan 2012

'''Stone Wall Sector'''

Superb climbing on an inspiring sweep of rock. Climbs described from left to right

'''Touchstone (22) *****''' (grade needs confirmation)

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

25m (22): From the ground climb left up the cubbyhole rail, then takes the crack immediately left of Written in stone and follows it through where it pinches into a seam (crux). Near the top where the wall steepens and the crack goes diagonally right, climb straight up on good holds and a clean exit onto the ledge (shared with Written in stone).

'''Written in stone (21) *****''' (grade needs confirmation)

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

25m (21): Takes the crack from the very right hand edge of the ledge & overhang cutting into the bottom left hand side of the wall, several meters above the ground. Near the top where the wall steepens and the crack goes diagonally right, cut slightly left and up on good holds and a clean exit onto the ledge (shared with Touchstone).

There are 2 combination variations on the above 2 routes. Crossing from one crack system to the other at the X on the topo allows you to either miss the crux of both routes (starting on Touchstone, and then moving right) to climb '''Stone ease (19)'''; or climb both cruxes (starting on Written in stone, and then moving left) to climb the very sustained '''Double stone (22)'''.

'''Project'''

Note: The gear on the stone wall is excellent, but it is mostly small to medium nuts, not cams, and the climbing is steep and sustained, making any lead a challenge for its grade.

'''Stone Wallah (14) ***½'''

FA: Sebastian & Johann Lanz December 2011

23m (14): The crack that starts up a corner and then through an overhang and straight up the face of the column that stands immediately to the right of the Stone wall.

'''Stone edge (16) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

23m (16): The arete immediately right of Stone wallah. Start up the tree and step onto the arete.

'''Cavegirl Crack (14) *'''

FA: Greg and Cheryl Devine, December 2011

The climb is situated on the true left. At the narrowest part of the kloof, beyond Kiddies Corner, there is a ground-level cave/overhang. Just upstream of the cave there is a sloping buttress with a wide bushy crack going all the way up.

25m (14): Climb straight up the crack, watching out for some scree halfway. The rock looks a bit dodgy but in fact isn’t and yields a surprisingly nice route. Scramble off the ledge in an upstream direction and down the gully.

'''Crystal cove 18 ** 20m'''

FA Chris Morgan-Wilson solo 15/03/2012

The climb is situated on the wall below "Jacqueline's wall"

Climb the face between the cracks and find the crystal alcove then up to the overhang , squeeze right through the gap
The sting is in the tail

[[Image:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg]]

Nappy Rash (16)

[[Image:Gamka Purity.jpg]]

Purity (21)

[[Image:Gamka Finger Food.jpg]]

Finger Food (16)

[[Image:Gamka Forebearance.jpg]]

Forebearance (17,21,19)

[[Image:Gamka Kiddies.jpg]]

Kiddies Corner with Wail (13), left & A-plus (15), right

[[Image:Gamka Stone Wall.jpg]]

The superb Stone wall: L to R: Touchstone (22); Written in stone (21); Project; Stone Wallah (14); Stone edge (16)

African Time - ''ain’t a straight line'' (25) ****

2013-03-30T21:28:41Z

Johannlanz:

The route offers great quality climbing particularly from pitch 3. After making the halfway ledge, we found that other climbers had nabbed our intended continuation. After making a few abortive (and white-knuckle) attempts at a direct continuation, we eventually, in African Time, meandered towards other parts of the wall to resume our route on less-crowded rock.

The route starts approximately 40m left of Armageddon Time and about 10 meters right of a big flat boulder surrounded by Wild Peach trees. This is almost directly below the left hand edge of the large stepped roofs of Armageddon’s third pitch. The route follows close to a fairly obvious, vegetated, chossy looking, straight-line break that runs up the first half of the wall at about 10 degrees left of vertical. At the third pitch it rails right (through the large left-facing corner) and continues up a clean crack line that runs parallel and about 8 meters right of the main vegetated break.

'''Pitch 1:''' 45m, (20) This pitch starts up easy ground (loose flakes) in the very shallow recess, which forms the start of the break. Continue on small holds up the steepest part of the seam past an old peg. Higher up, pull steeply to a small bushy ledge. Follow the main vegetated vertical break above for about 10 meters, to where it steepens. Rail left at an orange patch of rock below a small roof and up, to stance on a good ledge in a recess (gear for the stance can be found several meters further up).

'''Pitch 2:''' 35m, (20) From the ledge climb a few meters up and right to a small ledge. Climb a steep, reachy finger crack for several meters until it is possible to step out right onto the arête. Climb the arête to a ledge at the bottom left of the large Armageddon roofs. From the ledge step left across the vegetated recess and then up it for about 10 meters to a hanging stance at the level of the first, thin rail that goes out right, across the overhanging, leftwards facing wall.

'''Pitch 3:''' 30m (22). Rail right for 5 meters to the skyline arête. The rail is thinnest at the start (crux) and widens later. Move up 5 meters to a ledge. Then climb up past a small roof (thin), and up to gain the clean, leftwards-trending crack up to a big, comfortable ledge.

'''Pitch 4:''' 45m (21). The route continues straight up the clean, leftwards tending crack line about 6 meters in from the left hand edge of the ledge. Climb this through layback moves, and two small roofs, to continue above leftwards around a small, blunt arête into less steep ground in a recess. Stem up the steep crack to gain a good rail 5 meters higher. Move up and slightly right to finish up a layback and thin face moves (the sting in the tail) to gain the halfway ledge.

The route continues way over to the right (towards Smalblaar Ridge). Walk along the ledge past Armageddon and the exposed step-over. Approximately 15 meters beyond this is an obvious break, where a steep vertical, very grassed-up crack leads into a roof. Three meters right of this is a leftwards tending, thin finger crack which runs up to the right hand side of the roof.

'''Pitch 5:''' 45m, (23). Climb the finger crack. Follow the wider crack above, through another roof and straight up to a big ledge.

'''Pitch 6:''' 35m, (25). Continue straight up the line of the last pitch for about 5 meters. Trend left on small ledges and faces to reach the base of the obvious overhanging crack just left of the big corner. Climb the crack (crux) and go left to a ledge above.

'''Pitch 7:''' 25m, (22). Go left along the ledge for about 3 meters. Climb the vertical finger crack, through 2 small roofs. Traverse a few meters left across the face above to gain (thin) a crack that is followed easily up to a ledge below a roof.

'''Pitch 8:''' 30m, (21). Climb the overhanging chimney / crack through the roof from the ledge (hard), into thin cracks in a face above and then straight up to a ledge. Climb one of the water runnels on the next face up to the top.

First Ascent: Johann Lanz and Robert Zipplies, February 2012

'''Descent'''

EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.

OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route

African Time - ''ain’t a straight line'' (25) ****

2013-03-30T21:24:06Z

Johannlanz: Created page with "The route offers great quality climbing particularly from pitch 3. After making the halfway ledge, we found that other climbers had nabbed our intended continuation. After mak..."

The route offers great quality climbing particularly from pitch 3. After making the halfway ledge, we found that other climbers had nabbed our intended continuation. After making a few abortive (and white-knuckle) attempts at a direct continuation, we eventually, in African Time, meandered towards other parts of the wall to resume our route on less-crowded rock.

The route starts approximately 40m left of Armageddon Time and about 10 meters right of a big flat boulder surrounded by Wild Peach trees. This is almost directly below the left hand edge of the large stepped roofs of Armageddon’s third pitch. The route follows close to a fairly obvious, vegetated, chossy looking, straight-line break that runs up the first half of the wall at about 10 degrees left of vertical. At the third pitch it rails right (through the large left-facing corner) and continues up a clean crack line that runs parallel and about 8 meters right of the main vegetated break.

Pitch 1: 45m, (20) This pitch starts up easy ground (loose flakes) in the very shallow recess, which forms the start of the break. Continue on small holds up the steepest part of the seam past an old peg. Higher up, pull steeply to a small bushy ledge. Follow the main vegetated vertical break above for about 10 meters, to where it steepens. Rail left at an orange patch of rock below a small roof and up, to stance on a good ledge in a recess (gear for the stance can be found several meters further up).

Pitch 2: 35m, (20) From the ledge climb a few meters up and right to a small ledge. Climb a steep, reachy finger crack for several meters until it is possible to step out right onto the arête. Climb the arête to a ledge at the bottom left of the large Armageddon roofs. From the ledge step left across the vegetated recess and then up it for about 10 meters to a hanging stance at the level of the first, thin rail that goes out right, across the overhanging, leftwards facing wall.

Pitch 3: 30m (22). Rail right for 5 meters to the skyline arête. The rail is thinnest at the start (crux) and widens later. Move up 5 meters to a ledge. Then climb up past a small roof (thin), and up to gain the clean, leftwards-trending crack up to a big, comfortable ledge.

Pitch 4: 45m (21). The route continues straight up the clean, leftwards tending crack line about 6 meters in from the left hand edge of the ledge. Climb this through layback moves, and two small roofs, to continue above leftwards around a small, blunt arête into less steep ground in a recess. Stem up the steep crack to gain a good rail 5 meters higher. Move up and slightly right to finish up a layback and thin face moves (the sting in the tail) to gain the halfway ledge.

The route continues way over to the right (towards Smalblaar Ridge). Walk along the ledge past Armageddon and the exposed step-over. Approximately 15 meters beyond this is an obvious break, where a steep vertical, very grassed-up crack leads into a roof. Three meters right of this is a leftwards tending, thin finger crack which runs up to the right hand side of the roof.

Pitch 5: 45m, (23). Climb the finger crack. Follow the wider crack above, through another roof and straight up to a big ledge.

Pitch 6: 35m, (25). Continue straight up the line of the last pitch for about 5 meters. Trend left on small ledges and faces to reach the base of the obvious overhanging crack just left of the big corner. Climb the crack (crux) and go left to a ledge above.

Pitch 7: 25m, (22). Go left along the ledge for about 3 meters. Climb the vertical finger crack, through 2 small roofs. Traverse a few meters left across the face above to gain (thin) a crack that is followed easily up to a ledge below a roof.

Pitch 8: 30m, (21). Climb the overhanging chimney / crack through the roof from the ledge (hard), into thin cracks in a face above and then straight up to a ledge. Climb one of the water runnels on the next face up to the top.

First Ascent: Johann Lanz and Robert Zipplies, February 2012
[edit] Descent

EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.

OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route

Yellowwood Amphitheatre

2013-03-29T16:22:35Z

Johannlanz:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.726731
| Longitude = 19.208043
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = Summer
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Du Toits Kloof

}}
= Ethics =

The prevailing ethic for Yellowwood is tread lightly.

'''"Tread lightly" means no bolting''' of belay stances unless all possible alternatives have been completely exhausted. No placing of bolts for running belays that are not absolutely essential. No use of pitons, unless necessary. No use of power drills is accepted!

Climbers are asked to respect the prevailing ethic which is intended to preserve the aesthetic appeal of Yellowwood as a world-class Trad climbing destination.

'''It is essential for first time visitors to do an ascent of one of the existing classic trad routes to appreciate the committing and adventurous nature of the climbing at Yellowwood.''' Older routes such as '''Armageddon Time''' (and the direct), '''Blood is Sweeter than Honey''' and '''Time Warp''' are all test pieces for their grade. And newer routes such as '''Prime Time''' (and the direct) and '''Fantastic Time''' as well as "routes in progress" of which there at least 3, are no less demanding at the grade. '''Most, if not all the trad routes have at least one "R" (run-out) pitch but none are "X" rated. None have bolts. There is only one piece of fixed gear on all these routes (a peg on Blood is Sweeter than Honey) and there are no fixed stances!'''

A new route on Yellowwood, Fighting The Dark Side Of Gravity, has had all its bolts removed, except for two that are essential for the leader on Pitch 3. Two non-essential pitons have also been removed.

There has been much debate about Yellowwood and the most active Yellowwood climbers have talked extensively so as to settle the ethos of this high-value cliff.

In a recent meeting Adam Roff, Jeremy Samson and Hilton Davies distilled the following:

Yellowwood is a very special Trad climbing venue and there have been some mis-steps in route development at the crag. Newborn was bolted many years ago before locals had given much thought to bolting and ethics. It is a legacy that shall remain, but should not be seen as guidance for route development at Yellowwood. More recently four new routes have been established by visitors who have made extensive use of non-essential bolting. Whilst route development is encouraged, non-essential bolting is not; and these new routes are getting their non-essential bolts removed. They will remain as good adventurous routes.

'''Further Signatories:''' 
Willem le Roux 
Karl Hayden 
Stephen Davis 
Andy Davies 
Andy Wood 
Bruce Daniel 
Keith James 
Douw Steyn 
Ross Suter 
Rik de Decker 
Dirk Versfeld 
Paul Fatti 
Carl Kritzinger 
Rob Zipplies 
Scarre Cilliers 
Mark Berry 
Anthony Hall 
Mike Scott 
Kevin Smith 
Stewart Middlemiss 
Nic Good 
Charles Edelstein 
David Vallet 
Andy de Klerk 
Richard Behne 
Tienie Versfeld 
Alan Ross 
Chris Lomax 
John Alexander 
Evan Wiercx 
Ed February 
Andre Vercueil 
Bryant Roux 
Stuart Brown 
Dave Shewell 
Johnathan Gordon 
Stewart Noy 
Paul Schlotfeldt 
Clinton Martinengo 
Bobby Woods 
David Mercer 
Neels Havenga 
Justin Lawson 
Brian Weaver 
Johann Lanz 
Guy Paterson-Jones 

= How to get there =

Yellowwood Amphitheatre is in Du Toit's Kloof on the Worcester side of the Hugenot Tunnel, approximately an hour's drive from Cape Town. The amphitheatre is on the south side of the road (the N1). (It's on the right hand side if you are coming from Cape Town.) A path winds up the right-hand side of Yellowwood Ravine to reach the foot of the Amphitheatre. The walk-in is steep and takes about two hours. There is a water drip near the base of Yellowwood that is unreliable and seasonal - June to December

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

[[Du Toits Kloof]]

=== Getting There ===

Descent:
Walk right(looking in) to reach a system of gullies beyond the ridge. Scrambling and two rappells over short vertical sections gives access to a traverse line that leads back left to the bottom of the amphitheatre.

PLEASE NOTE TOPO PIC MAY BE INACCURATE!

[[Image:Yellowwood topo small3.jpg]]

== '''Descent''' ==
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.

[[DOWN TIME Rap Route]]
OR use the rap route (affectionately dubbed "Down Time"):

== Routes ==

* [[African Time - ''ain’t a straight line'' (25) ****]]
* [[Armageddon Time (23) ****]]
* [[Blood is Sweeter than Honey (22) ***]]
* [[DOWN TIME Rap Route]]
* [[Episode I - Fight Against The Dark Side Of Gravity]]
* [[Fantastic Time (23) *****]]
* [[FUN Time 20 ****]]
* [[Judgment Day]]
* [[New Born 29]]
* [[Prime Time Direct 24 *****]]
* [[Smalblaar Ridge ***** Grade F2]]
* [[Tea Time (21 A0 or 24?) **]]
* [[The Second Coming (23) **]]
* [[Time Warp (20) **]]
* [[Time Warp Direct 26]]
* [[Your Mother His Face]]

African Time - ain’t a straight line (23, A0) ***

2013-03-29T16:17:03Z

Johannlanz:

[[Image:African Time Topo''.jpg|frame|African Time Topo]]

The route offers great quality climbing particularly from pitch 3. After making the halfway ledge, we found that other climbers had nabbed our intended continuation. After making a few abortive (and white-knuckle) attempts at a direct continuation, we eventually, in African Time, meandered towards other parts of the wall to resume our route on less-crowded rock.

The route starts approximately 40m left of Armageddon Time and about 10 meters right of a big flat boulder surrounded by Wild Peach trees. This is almost directly below the left hand edge of the large stepped roofs of Armageddon’s third pitch. The route follows close to a fairly obvious, vegetated, chossy looking, straight-line break that runs up the first half of the wall at about 10 degrees left of vertical. At the third pitch it rails right (through the large left-facing corner) and continues up a clean crack line that runs parallel and about 8 meters right of the main vegetated break.

* Pitch 1: 45m, (20) This pitch starts up easy ground (loose flakes) in the very shallow recess, which forms the start of the break. Continue on small holds up the steepest part of the seam past an old peg. Higher up, pull steeply to a small bushy ledge. Follow the main vegetated vertical break above for about 10 meters, to where it steepens. Rail left at an orange patch of rock below a small roof and up, to stance on a good ledge in a recess (gear for the stance can be found several meters further up).

* Pitch 2: 35m, (20) From the ledge climb a few meters up and right to a small ledge. Climb a steep, reachy finger crack for several meters until it is possible to step out right onto the arête. Climb the arête to a ledge at the bottom left of the large Armageddon roofs. From the ledge step left across the vegetated recess and then up it for about 10 meters to a hanging stance at the level of the first, thin rail that goes out right, across the overhanging, leftwards facing wall.

* Pitch 3: 30m (22). Rail right for 5 meters to the skyline arête. The rail is thinnest at the start (crux) and widens later. Move up 5 meters to a ledge. Then climb up past a small roof (thin), and up to gain the clean, leftwards-trending crack up to a big, comfortable ledge.

* Pitch 4: 45m (21). The route continues straight up the clean, leftwards tending crack line about 6 meters in from the left hand edge of the ledge. Climb this through layback moves, and two small roofs, to continue above leftwards around a small, blunt arête into less steep ground in a recess. Stem up the steep crack to gain a good rail 5 meters higher. Move up and slightly right to finish up a layback and thin face moves (the sting in the tail) to gain the halfway ledge.

The route continues way over to the right (towards Smalblaar Ridge). Walk along the ledge past Armageddon and the exposed step-over. Approximately 15 meters beyond this is an obvious break, where a steep vertical, very grassed-up crack leads into a roof. Three meters right of this is a leftwards tending, thin finger crack which runs up to the right hand side of the roof.

* Pitch 5: 45m, (23). Climb the finger crack. Follow the wider crack above, through another roof and straight up to a big ledge.

* Pitch 6: 35m, (25). Continue straight up the line of the last pitch for about 5 meters. Trend left on small ledges and faces to reach the base of the obvious overhanging crack just left of the big corner. Climb the crack (crux) and go left to a ledge above.

* Pitch 7: 25m, (22). Go left along the ledge for about 3 meters. Climb the vertical finger crack, through 2 small roofs. Traverse a few meters left across the face above to gain (thin) a crack that is followed easily up to a ledge below a roof.

* Pitch 8: 30m, (21). Climb the overhanging chimney / crack through the roof from the ledge (hard), into thin cracks in a face above and then straight up to a ledge. Climb one of the water runnels on the next face up to the top.

First Ascent: Johann Lanz and Robert Zipplies, February 2012''

== '''Descent''' ==
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.

OR use the [[DOWN TIME Rap Route]]

[[Category:Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]

Girl Next Door 24

2013-03-29T15:49:18Z

Johannlanz: Created page with "'''Girl Next Door ****''' (The Castle, left turret) 164m; 24 Climb the first pitch of No More Bells or another route to the big upper ledge. The route starts roughly in the m..."

'''Girl Next Door ****'''
(The Castle, left turret)
164m; 24

Climb the first pitch of No More Bells or another route to the big upper ledge. The route starts roughly in the middle of the wall from the upper ledge, to the right of “No More Bells”. It crosses “No More Bells” near that route's second stance and climbs the rest of the wall between that route and “In Your Honour”. Right of centre there is a high, rectangular recess (yellow at the top), capped by a roof. On the face to the left of the recess, and right of a prominent left-facing corner, there are a number of vertical cracks. The route takes the middle crack, which blanks out about 15 meters up.

'''Pitch 1:''' 36m, 19. Climb the crack and continue for a meter or two after it blanks out to reach a rail, then move right into cracks Continue up to a roof, pull through and then follow the right hand crack line. Avoid the slightly messy recessed part of the crack higher up by moving rightwards onto a very featured face. Stance at the top of this below the roof.

'''Pitch 2:''' 40m, 21. Climb the break on the right hand side of the roof above and slightly left of the stance (Bells and Whistles climbs the crack 2 meters to the right) on good holds leading into a crack in a leftward facing corner, and then up easier ground onto a platform below the next steep section. Traverse left for 4 meters, up in a corner and then diagonally left on small holds to the rail below the steep rock. On the left there is a yellow recess flanked by 2 parallel cracks. Climb these, moving right through the small roof. Follow the break above for about 8 meters to a small ledge. This pitch can be divided into two.

'''Pitch 3:''' 28m, 21. Climb the finger crack continuation of the break and then up easier ground above up to a ledge below the roofs. Traverse left for about 12 metres to the end of the large ledge.

'''Pitch 4:''' 30m, 24. From the left hand edge of the ledge, climb 3 meters up the break (shared with “In Your Honour” before it traverses left and up). Continue straight up through the slightly overhanding corner (strenuous). Follow the break, moving rightwards at about 15 meters and then straight up again through steep rock to stance on a small sloping ledge below where the wall steepens significantly, to the large roof at the top.

'''Pitch 5:''' 30m, 19. Make an airy rightward traverse in the good rail 1 meter above the ledge out to a good prong and continue traversing around the corner for about 3 meters. Climb the face above on a flake diagonally rightwards up to a rail and bush. Climb into the large crack on the right, up for 2 meters and then onto the face to the right of the large crack, which is climbed straight up to the top.

FA: Johann Lanz & Robert Zipplies; April 2011.

Chess Pieces

2013-03-29T15:46:28Z

Johannlanz: /* Routes */

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude =
| Longitude =
| Climbing Type =
| Rock Type =
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area =

}}
[http://www.climb.co.za/2010/04/climbing-the-chess-pieces/ In April 2010, Robert Zipplies and Malcolm Gowans wrote an online article about climbing at the Chess Pieces. The routes here are new since that article.]
= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

== Routes ==
* [[Knight Rider 22 (N)]]
* [[No More Bells]]
*[[Girl Next Door 24]]

[[Du Toits Kloof]]

File:The Stone Wall.jpg

2011-12-21T22:24:43Z

Johannlanz:

Gamkaberg

2011-12-21T21:40:01Z

Johannlanz:

'''Note:''' I would love to stay informed of any route development, so if you open something new either enter it here, or mail info to me and I will keep this RD updated. Thanks johannlanz at vodamail dot co dot za.

Good quality, multi-pitch, trad climbing with a doddle of an approach and easy descents in beautiful, pristine surroundings, with nice, comfortable camping. A very relaxing, family friendly venue.

Gamkaberg is a nature reserve in the Little Karoo managed by Cape Nature and is located south of the R62 between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, fairly near (east of) the Calitzdorp Hot Springs. The reserve offers extremely nice (but pricey) Bush camp accommodation, as well as a basic stables cottage and a small ordinary camp site. For accommodation info and a map of how to get there see: http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves.htm?reserve=Gamkaberg+Nature+Reserve. The reserve (but not the climbing) was also featured in the March – May 2010 issue of SA Mountain Sport.

The climbing is in Tierkloof on very good quality, hard sandstone similar to Montagu but with many beautiful, vertical finger cracks. Access is a short, level walk along a manicured hiking trail which runs up the kloof. Only a few routes have been opened so far, but a fair amount of potential exists for routes from single pitch to 3 or 4 pitches long.

Most of the climbs are on shady south faces. There is lots of shade in the kloof. There is very little water in the kloof - take all drinking requirements.

'''Decent from all routes:''' pick a tree and rapp off – there are suitable trees on ledges everywhere on the crags.

'''Approach:''' From the camp site and reserve reception (GPS: S33.670838 E21.888915)
take the most direct route up the Pied Barbet walking trail which runs up the wide kloof (start up the road, take first hiking trail right, take a left to avoid going up the side of valley, and then stick to the bottom of the valley). A less than 2 km stroll takes you to the start of the narrow part of Tierkloof – leave the Pied Barbet trail to follow the trail up the kloof towards Oukraal and the Overhang. A minute or 2 up the kloof you reach the bench (GPS: S33.68577 E21.89821). If you are staying at the Tierkloof Eco-lodge it is only a 5 minute walk to the bench.

The Purity wall is the awesome looking wall (right hand stream bank facing down) that you look directly up at from the bench.

Existing climbs are listed from the bottom of the kloof running up.

[[Image:Gamka Map.jpg]]

'''Nappy rash (16) **'''

FA: Paul Lochner & Johann Lanz April 2003

This route is located on a pillar at the base of the scree running up to the Purity wall.

20m (16): Climb more or less on the right hand aréte of the pillar, from the streambed

'''Purity (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

25m (21): Climb the leftward tending break up the main part of the lower wall and exit left onto the aréte.

The longer rightward tending break awaits a brave ascent (and/or some pegs).

'''Finger food (16) ***'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2003

This route is located towards the left hand side of the wall with multiple vertical cracks on the opposite side and slightly upstream of the Purity wall.

38m (16): Aim for the immaculate looking crack above and then climb it.

'''Forbearance (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

This route is located upstream of Finger food, around the corner on the higher south facing part of the wall. Scramble up from the stream bed and left along sloping ground below the first tier of the wall. Start towards the left side of the wall.

1. 20m (17): Climb the clean, thin, rightwards tending corner crack to the top. The next pitch starts across the ledge to the right.

2. 25m (21): Climb the leftward tending crack and break starting in the middle of the wall. Move up and slightly right into the slightly rightwards tending splitter finger crack and climb it to the ledge.

3. 20m (19): Climb straight up into the vertical finger crack running up the middle of the face and climb it to the top.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 can easily be combined into one.

'''Kiddies Corner Sector'''

'''Wail (13) **'''

FA: Sebastian Lanz April 2011

18m (13): Climb the right hand aréte and face just left of it.

'''A plus (15) ***'''

FA: Matthew Lochner April 2011

18m (15): Climb straight up the middle of the face, to the right of the Wail aréte.

'''Lightning flash (9) **'''

15m (9): Climb the crack in the face to the right of the corner, right of A plus, and continue up left past ledges.

'''Stone Wall Sector'''

Superb climbing on an inspiring sweep of rock. Climbs described from left to right

'''Touchstone (22) *****''' (grade needs confirmation)

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

25m (22): From the ground climb left up the cubbyhole rail, then takes the crack immediately left of Written in stone and follows it through where it pinches into a seam (crux). Near the top where the wall steepens and the crack goes diagonally right, climb straight up on good holds and a clean exit onto the ledge (shared with Written in stone).

'''Written in stone (21) *****''' (grade needs confirmation)

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

25m (21): Takes the crack from the very right hand edge of the ledge & overhang cutting into the bottom left hand side of the wall, several meters above the ground. Near the top where the wall steepens and the crack goes diagonally right, cut slightly left and up on good holds and a clean exit onto the ledge (shared with Touchstone).

There are 2 combination variations on the above 2 routes. Crossing from one crack system to the other at the X on the topo allows you to either miss the crux of both routes (starting on Touchstone, and then moving right) to climb '''Stone ease (19)'''; or climb both cruxes (starting on Written in stone, and then moving left) to climb the very sustained '''Double stone (22)'''.

'''Project'''

Note: The gear on the stone wall is excellent, but it is mostly small to medium nuts, not cams, and the climbing is steep and sustained, making any lead a challenge for its grade.

'''Stone Wallah (14) ***½'''

FA: Sebastian & Johann Lanz December 2011

23m (14): The crack that starts up a corner and then through an overhang and straight up the face of the column that stands immediately to the right of the Stone wall.

'''Stone edge (16) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz December 2011

23m (16): The arete immediately right of Stone wallah. Start up the tree and step onto the arete.

[[Image:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg]]

Nappy Rash (16)

[[Image:Gamka Purity.jpg]]

Purity (21)

[[Image:Gamka Finger Food.jpg]]

Finger Food (16)

[[Image:Gamka Forebearance.jpg]]

Forebearance (17,21,19)

[[Image:Gamka Kiddies.jpg]]

Kiddies Corner with Wail (13), left & A-plus (15), right

[[Image:Gamka Stone Wall.jpg]]

The superb Stone wall: L to R: Touchstone (22); Written in stone (21); Project; Stone Wallah (14); Stone edge (16)

File:Gamka Stone Wall.jpg

2011-12-21T21:35:27Z

Johannlanz:

File:Gamka Map.jpg

2011-12-21T21:33:33Z

Johannlanz: uploaded a new version of "File:Gamka Map.jpg"

Gamkaberg

2011-12-21T21:27:54Z

Johannlanz:

South African Climbing Wiki

2011-12-09T11:41:18Z

Johannlanz:

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Nursery Ravine]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[The Hole]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Redhill]]
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Krakadouw]]
**[[Tafelberg]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
***[[Rocklands]]
**[[Rooiberg Nuwerust Rest Camp]]
**[[Sanddrif]]
**[[The Pup and Maltese Cross]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
**[[Winterbach]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Towerkop]]
*[[Gamkaberg]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]
*[[Thaba Nchu]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]
*[[Mzinyathi Falls]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Magageni]]
*[[Wilgepoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]
*[[Manuotsa (JG Strydom Tunnel)]]
*[[Buffalo Gorge]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[Ezemvelo]]
*[[King's Kloof]] '''NEW!!!''' 
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[The Keg]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

Gamkaberg

2011-12-05T09:30:43Z

Johannlanz:

Gamkaberg

2011-11-30T21:44:37Z

Johannlanz:

Good quality, multi-pitch, trad climbing with a doddle of an approach and easy descents in beautiful, pristine surroundings, with nice, comfortable camping. A very relaxing, family friendly venue.

Gamkaberg is a nature reserve in the Little Karoo managed by Cape Nature and is located south of the R62 between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, fairly near (east of) the Calitzdorp Hot Springs. The reserve offers extremely nice (but pricey) Bush camp accommodation, as well as a basic stables cottage and a small ordinary camp site. For accommodation info and a map of how to get there see: http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves.htm?reserve=Gamkaberg+Nature+Reserve. The reserve (but not the climbing) was also featured in the March – May 2010 issue of SA Mountain Sport.

The climbing is in Tierkloof on very good quality, hard sandstone similar to Montagu but with many beautiful, vertical finger cracks. Access is a short, level walk along a manicured hiking trail which runs up the kloof. Only a few routes have been opened so far, but a fair amount of potential exists for routes from single pitch to 3 or 4 pitches long.

Most of the climbs are on shady south faces. There is lots of shade in the kloof. There is very little water in the kloof - take all drinking requirements.

'''Decent from all routes:''' pick a tree and rapp off – there are suitable trees on ledges everywhere on the crags.

'''Approach:''' From the camp site and reserve reception (GPS: S33.670838 E21.888915)
take the most direct route up the Pied Barbet walking trail which runs up the wide kloof (start up the road, take first hiking trail right, take a left to avoid going up the side of valley, and then stick to the bottom of the valley). A less than 2 km stroll takes you to the start of the narrow part of Tierkloof – leave the Pied Barbet trail to follow the trail up the kloof towards Oukraal and the Overhang. A minute or 2 up the kloof you reach the bench (GPS: S33.68577 E21.89821). If you are staying at the Tierkloof Eco-lodge it is only a 5 minute walk to the bench.

The Purity wall is the awesome looking wall (right hand stream bank facing down) that you look directly up at from the bench.

Existing climbs are listed from the bottom of the kloof running up.

[[Image:Gamka Map.jpg]]

'''Nappy rash (16) **'''

FA: Paul Lochner & Johann Lanz April 2003

This route is located on a pillar at the base of the scree running up to the Purity wall.

20m (16): Climb more or less on the right hand aréte of the pillar, from the streambed

'''Purity (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

25m (21): Climb the leftward tending break up the main part of the lower wall and exit left onto the aréte.

The longer rightward tending break awaits a brave ascent (and/or some pegs).

'''Finger food (16) ***'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2003

This route is located towards the left hand side of the wall with multiple vertical cracks on the opposite side and slightly upstream of the Purity wall.

38m (16): Aim for the immaculate looking crack above and then climb it.

'''Forbearance (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

This route is located upstream of Finger food, around the corner on the higher south facing part of the wall. Scramble up from the stream bed and left along sloping ground below the first tier of the wall. Start towards the left side of the wall.

1. 20m (17): Climb the clean, thin, rightwards tending corner crack to the top. The next pitch starts across the ledge to the right.

2. 25m (21): Climb the leftward tending crack and break starting in the middle of the wall. Move up and slightly right into the slightly rightwards tending splitter finger crack and climb it to the ledge.

3. 20m (19): Climb straight up into the vertical finger crack running up the middle of the face and climb it to the top.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 can easily be combined into one.

'''Kiddies Corner Sector'''

'''Wail (13) **'''

FA: Sebastian Lanz

18m (13): Climb the right hand aréte and face just left of it.

'''A plus (15) ***'''

FA: Matthew Lochner

18m (15): Climb straight up the middle of the face, to the right of the Wail aréte.

'''Lightning flash (9) **'''

15m (9): Climb the crack in the face to the right of the corner, right of A plus, and continue up left past ledges.

[[Image:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg]]

Nappy Rash (16)

[[Image:Gamka Purity.jpg]]

Purity (21)

[[Image:Gamka Finger Food.jpg]]

Finger Food (16)

[[Image:Gamka Forebearance.jpg]]

Forebearance (17,21,19)

[[Image:Gamka Kiddies.jpg]]

Kiddies Corner with Wail (13), left & A-plus (15), right

File:Gamka Kiddies.jpg

2011-11-30T21:42:39Z

Johannlanz:

File:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg

2011-11-30T21:40:42Z

Johannlanz: uploaded a new version of "File:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg"

Gamkaberg

2011-11-30T21:31:26Z

Johannlanz:

File:Gamka Forebearance.jpg

2011-11-30T21:27:53Z

Johannlanz:

File:Gamka Finger Food.jpg

2011-11-30T20:31:40Z

Johannlanz:

Gamkaberg

2011-11-30T20:28:26Z

Johannlanz:

Good quality, multi-pitch, trad climbing with a doddle of an approach and easy descents in beautiful, pristine surroundings, with nice, comfortable camping. A very relaxing, family friendly venue.

Gamkaberg is a nature reserve in the Little Karoo managed by Cape Nature and is located south of the R62 between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, fairly near (east of) the Calitzdorp Hot Springs. The reserve offers extremely nice (but pricey) Bush camp accommodation, as well as a basic stables cottage and a small ordinary camp site. For accommodation info and a map of how to get there see: http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves.htm?reserve=Gamkaberg+Nature+Reserve. The reserve (but not the climbing) was also featured in the March – May 2010 issue of SA Mountain Sport.

The climbing is in Tierkloof on very good quality, hard sandstone similar to Montagu but with many beautiful, vertical finger cracks. Access is a short, level walk along a manicured hiking trail which runs up the kloof. Only a few routes have been opened so far, but a fair amount of potential exists for routes from single pitch to 3 or 4 pitches long.

Most of the climbs are on shady south faces. There is lots of shade in the kloof. There is very little water in the kloof - take all drinking requirements.

'''Decent from all routes:''' pick a tree and rapp off – there are suitable trees on ledges everywhere on the crags.

'''Approach:''' From the camp site and reserve reception (GPS: S33.670838 E21.888915)
take the most direct route up the Pied Barbet walking trail which runs up the wide kloof (start up the road, take first hiking trail right, take a left to avoid going up the side of valley, and then stick to the bottom of the valley). A less than 2 km stroll takes you to the start of the narrow part of Tierkloof – leave the Pied Barbet trail to follow the trail up the kloof towards Oukraal and the Overhang. A minute or 2 up the kloof you reach the bench (GPS: S33.68577 E21.89821). If you are staying at the Tierkloof Eco-lodge it is only a 5 minute walk to the bench.

The Purity wall is the awesome looking wall (right hand stream bank facing down) that you look directly up at from the bench.

Existing climbs are listed from the bottom of the kloof running up.

[[Image:Gamka Map.jpg]]

'''Nappy rash (16) **'''

FA: Paul Lochner & Johann Lanz April 2003

This route is located on a pillar at the base of the scree running up to the Purity wall.

20m (16): Climb more or less on the right hand aréte of the pillar, from the streambed

'''Purity (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

25m (21): Climb the leftward tending break up the main part of the lower wall and exit left onto the aréte.

The longer rightward tending break awaits a brave ascent (and/or some pegs).

'''Finger food (16) ***'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2003

This route is located towards the left hand side of the wall with multiple vertical cracks on the opposite side and slightly upstream of the Purity wall.

38m (16): Aim for the immaculate looking crack above and then climb it.

'''Forbearance (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

This route is located upstream of Finger food, around the corner on the higher south facing part of the wall. Scramble up from the stream bed and left along sloping ground below the first tier of the wall. Start towards the left side of the wall.

1. 20m (17): Climb the clean, thin, rightwards tending corner crack to the top. The next pitch starts across the ledge to the right.

2. 25m (21): Climb the leftward tending crack and break starting in the middle of the wall. Move up and slightly right into the slightly rightwards tending splitter finger crack and climb it to the ledge.

3. 20m (19): Climb straight up into the vertical finger crack running up the middle of the face and climb it to the top.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 can easily be combined into one.

'''Kiddies Corner Sector'''

'''Wail (13) **'''

FA: Sebastian Lanz

18m (13): Climb the right hand aréte and face just left of it.

'''A plus (15) ***'''

FA: Matthew Lochner

18m (15): Climb straight up the middle of the face, to the right of the Wail aréte.

'''Lightning flash (9) **'''

15m (9): Climb the crack in the face to the right of the corner, right of A plus, and continue up left past ledges.

[[Image:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg]]

[[Image:Gamka Purity.jpg]]

[[Image:Gamka Finger Food.jpg]]

File:Gamka Purity.jpg

2011-11-30T20:25:27Z

Johannlanz: Purity (21)

Purity (21)

File:Gamka Nappy Rash.jpg

2011-11-30T20:17:30Z

Johannlanz:

Gamkaberg

2011-11-30T20:12:58Z

Johannlanz:

File:Gamka Map.jpg

2011-11-30T20:06:54Z

Johannlanz:

South African Climbing Wiki

2011-11-30T19:59:26Z

Johannlanz: /* Western Cape */

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Nursery Ravine]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Redhill]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Krakadouw]]
**[[Tafelberg]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
***[[Rocklands]]
**[[Rooiberg Nuwerust Rest Camp]]
**[[Sanddrif]]
**[[The Pup and Maltese Cross]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
**[[Winterbach]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Towerkop]]
*[[Gamkaberg]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]
*[[Thaba Nchu]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]
*[[Mzinyathi Falls]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Magageni]]
*[[Wilgepoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]
*[[Manuotsa (JG Strydom Tunnel)]]
*[[Buffalo Gorge]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[Ezemvelo]]
*[[King's Kloof]] '''NEW!!!''' 
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[The Keg]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

Gamkaberg

2011-11-30T19:43:17Z

Johannlanz: Gamkaberg - friendly trad climbing venue in Little Karoo

Good quality, multi-pitch, trad climbing with a doddle of an approach and easy descents in beautiful, pristine surroundings, with nice, comfortable camping. A very relaxing, family friendly venue.

Gamkaberg is a nature reserve in the Little Karoo managed by Cape Nature and is located south of the R62 between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, fairly near (east of) the Calitzdorp Hot Springs. The reserve offers extremely nice (but pricey) Bush camp accommodation, as well as a basic stables cottage and a small ordinary camp site. For accommodation info and a map of how to get there see: http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves.htm?reserve=Gamkaberg+Nature+Reserve. The reserve (but not the climbing) was also featured in the March – May 2010 issue of SA Mountain Sport.

The climbing is in Tierkloof on very good quality, hard sandstone similar to Montagu but with many beautiful, vertical finger cracks. Access is a short, level walk along a manicured hiking trail which runs up the kloof. Only a few routes have been opened so far, but a fair amount of potential exists for routes from single pitch to 3 or 4 pitches long.

Most of the climbs are on shady south faces. There is lots of shade in the kloof. There is very little water in the kloof - take all drinking requirements.

'''Decent from all routes:''' pick a tree and rapp off – there are suitable trees on ledges everywhere on the crags.

'''Approach:''' From the camp site and reserve reception (GPS: S33.670838 E21.888915)
take the most direct route up the Pied Barbet walking trail which runs up the wide kloof (start up the road, take first hiking trail right, take a left to avoid going up the side of valley, and then stick to the bottom of the valley). A less than 2 km stroll takes you to the start of the narrow part of Tierkloof – leave the Pied Barbet trail to follow the trail up the kloof towards Oukraal and the Overhang. A minute or 2 up the kloof you reach the bench (GPS: S33.68577 E21.89821). If you are staying at the Tierkloof Eco-lodge it is only a 5 minute walk to the bench.

The Purity wall is the awesome looking wall (right hand stream bank facing down) that you look directly up at from the bench.

Existing climbs are listed from the bottom of the kloof running up.

'''Nappy rash (16) **'''

FA: Paul Lochner & Johann Lanz April 2003

This route is located on a pillar at the base of the scree running up to the Purity wall.

20m (16): Climb more or less on the right hand aréte of the pillar, from the streambed

'''Purity (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

25m (21): Climb the leftward tending break up the main part of the lower wall and exit left onto the aréte.

The longer rightward tending break awaits a brave ascent (and/or some pegs).

'''Finger food (16) ***'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2003

This route is located towards the left hand side of the wall with multiple vertical cracks on the opposite side and slightly upstream of the Purity wall.

38m (16): Aim for the immaculate looking crack above and then climb it.

'''Forbearance (21) ****'''

FA: Johann Lanz & Paul Lochner April 2011

This route is located upstream of Finger food, around the corner on the higher south facing part of the wall. Scramble up from the stream bed and left along sloping ground below the first tier of the wall. Start towards the left side of the wall.

1. 20m (17): Climb the clean, thin, rightwards tending corner crack to the top. The next pitch starts across the ledge to the right.

2. 25m (21): Climb the leftward tending crack and break starting in the middle of the wall. Move up and slightly right into the slightly rightwards tending splitter finger crack and climb it to the ledge.

3. 20m (19): Climb straight up into the vertical finger crack running up the middle of the face and climb it to the top.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 can easily be combined into one.

'''Kiddies Corner Sector'''

'''Wail (13) **'''

FA: Sebastian Lanz

18m (13): Climb the right hand aréte and face just left of it.

'''A plus (15) ***'''

FA: Matthew Lochner

18m (15): Climb straight up the middle of the face, to the right of the Wail aréte.

'''Lightning flash (9) **'''

15m (9): Climb the crack in the face to the right of the corner, right of A plus, and continue up left past ledges.

File:African Time Topo.jpg

2011-06-23T11:22:50Z

Johannlanz: African Time Topo

African Time Topo