South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Waterval Boven

2013-03-13T07:42:43Z

Justin:

Waterval Boven

2013-03-13T05:07:00Z

Justin:

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== The Waterval Boven Guide ==

This guide covers everything.

[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/WatervalBovenGuide20130311.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated March 2013.]

== Add New Routes below: ==

'''Baboon Buttress'''

Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011

Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012

RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011

HYPOPNEA 25 *** (6D,A) From the ledge at the chains of Dreamers (23), un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left to more chains. If you do this and Dreamers as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013

'''Hallucinogen Wall'''

ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012

Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones. Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack. Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack. Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ. Possibly easier if you are tall.
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.

Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010

'''Superbowl'''

Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.

The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.

== New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide ==

'''He-Man Area'''

These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing ''Cotapaxi'', walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.

*SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

*SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up ''Skeletor''. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

'''God No! Wall'''

*THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top. FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.

*MUTATION 32 ***** (17D,A) Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height. From the letterbox 'rest' do the big move as for Beast but continue straight up and claw your way through the cracks with your core roaring at you and your feet desperately searching for anything to stand on. An instant classic at the God No Wall. One of the best lines in Boven. Downgraded after an easier sequence found a way to skip a 6 move boulder problem in the crux.
FA: Brian Weaver, June 2012

'''Superbowl'''
*THE NEXT GENERATION 33 ***** (12D,A) The route previously known as 'The Broject' starts up the easy pillar 5m right of Hack and Slay. A short easy face leads into Boven's answer to Rocklands roof bouldering. Get creative and enjoy something unique to Boven. A massive thanks goes to my Big Bro - Dewald Kloppers - for bolting the line and letting me try it with him. FA: Marc Flex Efune, December 2012, BB Dewald Kloppers

'''Theatre'''
*MANKINI BLUE 26 *** (8D,A) Climb Bikini Red for two bolts then move left and up via 1-2 small holds. A crimpers delight. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2012

'''Breakfast crag'''
*KIRI 18 *** (5D,A)To the right of CRACK UP, around the corner. Climb the arete on the left. BB: Sharon Benade FA: Johan Moelich, July 2012

File:Seamster Buttress approach.jpg

2013-02-28T11:46:58Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Seamster Buttress approach.jpg": Seamster Buttress Approach

Seamster Buttress approach

File:Seamster Buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T11:45:45Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Seamster Buttress 01.jpg": Seamster Buttress Topo

Seamster Buttress

File:Old school homemade bolts.jpg

2013-02-28T11:43:59Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Old school homemade bolts.jpg": Old school homemade hangers and bolts

old school homemade bolts

File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T11:43:05Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg": Canasta Buttress Topo

Canasta Buttress

File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T11:42:08Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg": old school homemade climbing bolts

Canasta Buttress

File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T11:39:52Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg": Canasta Buttress Topo

Canasta Buttress

File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T11:37:58Z

Justin: uploaded a new version of "File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg": Canasta Buttress Topo

Canasta Buttress

Seamster Buttress

2013-02-28T11:35:12Z

Justin: Created page with "Seamster Buttress [[File:Seamster Buttress approach.jpg|frame|right|alt=Alt Oorlogs Kloof|Seamster Buttres..."

[[File:Seamster Buttress 01.jpg|frame|right|alt=Alt Oorlogs Kloof|Seamster Buttress]]

[[File:Seamster Buttress approach.jpg|frame|right|alt=Alt Oorlogs Kloof|Seamster Buttress Approach]]

This newly developed crag is situated high up the hill to the right of the Snark buttress, approximately half way between Snark and the obvious shield at the top of the ridge, and is recognisable by its distinct cricket bat shape.

= Approach =
It is best to first walk up to the Mischief and Thuggery area. From there walk across the slope and slightly up, to what look like the obvious scramble, to get up to the height of the base of the buttress. You will find a fixed line up the scramble (you can hand over hand up this but it’s best to use a jumar and sling). 
At the top of the fixed line walk down the ramp for ten meters and you will come to the base. Alternatively you can first walk to Snark Buttress and from Snark walk straight up the hill till you come to the fixed line. 
Like Snark, it gets late afternoon shade.

= Routes=

* 1 Seamster 29 (7c+) [10B]. The left hand line. You can step onto the shoulder at 2/3rd height. FA: Clinton Martinengo Jan 2013.
* 2 Seamstress (closed project) [10B]. The right hand line. FA: Clinton Martinengo Jan 2013.

= More route Potential =
If you can climb 29 the Seamster is well worth the walk-in. It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt - it will be obvious why once you are there. 
There is a stick left up at the base. 
There is a beautiful looking seam on the wall just to the right that’s begging to be bolted and climbed. I think it will go at around the mid 20s; it’s up for the taking.

File:Seamster Buttress approach.jpg

2013-02-28T11:32:50Z

Justin: Seamster Buttress approach

Seamster Buttress approach

File:Seamster Buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T11:31:30Z

Justin: Seamster Buttress

Seamster Buttress

Canasta Buttress

2013-02-28T11:25:23Z

Justin: Created page with "Canasta Buttress [[File:old school homemade bolts.jpg|frame|right|alt=Alt Oorlogs Kloof|The homemade hanger..."

[[File:canasta buttress 01.jpg|frame|right|alt=Alt Oorlogs Kloof|Canasta Buttress]]

[[File:old school homemade bolts.jpg|frame|right|alt=Alt Oorlogs Kloof|The homemade hangers which have been replaced]]

The Canasta buttress is situated about 150 meters up the hill from Wildcard Buttress. The routes are short and powerful, between four to six bolts long.
On the whole the routes and rock are of good quality and have old school gradings, so be warned. 
Routes are described from left to right.

* 1 Golden Sickle 27 (7b+) [4B] FA: Guy Holwill 1991.
* 2 Project [5B] FA: Steve Bradshaw 2013.
* 3 Maverick 25 (7a+) [6B] FA: Jeremy Samson 1989. Opened on preplaced nuts and later bolted by Guy Holwill in 1991.
* 4 Collin Mozart the Demented Puppet 24 (7a) [5B] FA: Guy Holwill 1991. Opened on trad gear and two bolts.
* 5 Canasta 27 (7b+) [5B] FA: Jeremy Colenso 1989 Opened on trad gear and one bolt.

These routes were bolted in the early days of sport climbing so hand drilled drop-in bolts and homemade aluminium hangers were used. Needless to say these routes were no longer safe.

In December of 2012 Clinton Martinengo rebolted all the routes and also completely bolted both Colin Mozart and Canasta, converting them into fully equipped sport routes. 
Guy Holwill sponsored all the bolts, hangers, anchors and drill bits.

Oorlogs Kloof

2013-02-28T11:15:36Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.717451
| Longitude = 19.982325
| Climbing Type = Trad and Sport
| Rock Type = Sandstone/Quartzite
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Montagu

}}

= How to get there =
- [http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=R318&daddr=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&hl=en&ll=-33.700016,19.996378&spn=0.003637,0.008256&sll=-33.73371,20.061545&sspn=0.116348,0.264187&geocode=FQPO_f0drBIxAQ%3BFYp7_P0d5PYyASnrJ_dH4kXSHTFoIP2K65uYag&oq=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&t=h&mra=ls&z=18|Directions via Google Map]

From Montagu, drive out on the R318 for approximately 19km's (going towards the Keisie valley). After you pass the Keisie Primary School, your turn off is approximately 1.4km's on your left. Follow a dirt road (the dirt road double backs on the 318).
Stop at the first farm house on your left, announce yourself and ask permission to drive up to the climbing Oorlogs Kloof. Drive up the road for another +- 8Km's until you get to a sandy parking area (a high clearance vehicle is best to take on this road - otherwise drive as far you are keen and then park on the side of the road.
See map below

= Fees & Permits =
Please announce yourself at the farm house and ask permission to climb in the kloof.
No fees or permits are required to climb at Oorlogs Kloof

= Accommodation & Food =
See the [[Montagu]] main page

= Attractions & Activities =
See the [[Montagu]] main page

= Map =
- Driving from Montagu [http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=R318&daddr=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&hl=en&ll=-33.700016,19.996378&spn=0.003637,0.008256&sll=-33.73371,20.061545&sspn=0.116348,0.264187&geocode=FQPO_f0drBIxAQ%3BFYp7_P0d5PYyASnrJ_dH4kXSHTFoIP2K65uYag&oq=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&t=h&mra=ls&z=18|Directions via Google Map]

[[File:Oorlogs kloof directions.jpg]]

= Areas =

** [[Buttock Buttress]]
** [[Maverick Wall]]
** [[Meatloaf Wall]]
** [[Wildcard Buttress]]
** [[Le Pique-nique Area]]
** [[Snark Buttress]]
** [[Cowboy Area]]
** [[Cuts Both Ways Area]]
** [[Tower of Babel]]
** [[Canasta Buttress]]
** [[Seamster Buttress]]

[[Category:Montagu]]

Montagu

2013-02-28T11:13:33Z

Justin:

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Climbing in Montagu}}

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.784854
| Longitude = 20.116596
| Climbing Type = Sport, Multi-pitch Sport, Trad
| Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Montagu

}}

Montagu is 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is the most developed sport climbing area in the Western Cape (if not the country). 100's of sport routes of all ranges of difficulty. +/-400 Single Pitch & a good few Multi-Pitch Sport Routes.

<h1>Climbing in Montagu</h1>
Montagu offers some of the best climbing in the Western Cape with many crags that vary in grade and steepness with excellent quality rock. Two hours drive from Cape Town, it rarely rains in Montagu and when Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing (Except for the occasional freak floods).
The small town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region). Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. It is now well known for climbing and mountain biking (among things).

* Click here for more information about Montagu on http://montagu.org.za
 

=Bolting / New Routes =

I’m sure everyone is aware of the [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5670&start=0&hilit=bosch 'closure of Bosch Kloof'].
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.

== Application info should include: ==
* Location of the route
* A picture of the route with the proposed route drawn in
* Whether or not there is an existing path to the new route?
* Have you bolted before?
* Your contact details

Your request will be processed as quickly as possible and you will be contacted with regards to your application.
Please send all new route applications to [mailto:info@climbing.co.za info@climbing.co.za] and make the subject New Routes Montagu.

As with the rest of the Western Cape, only 316 Stainless Steel rolled bolts are allowed to be used for bolting routes in Montagu. Check the [http://www.climb.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund/ Anchor Replacement Fund page] for more information.

= Getting there =
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R21.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you're now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right at the second set of traffic lights and take the R43 into Worcester, after going over the bridge, turn left at the high street traffic lights (2nd set) and follow the signs to Robertson and then onto Ashton and then Montagu. You should now be on the 'R60' road, Note that this road turns into the 'R62' after Ashton.
Be aware that the local traffic cops have been trapping in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.

= Accommodation & Food =

[http://www.debos.co.za De Bos] (Tel/Fax 023 614 2532, Cell 082 3325453). Camping is about R30 per person per night (includes cooking facilities)
The Barn costs R60 (minimum two nights stay) has bunk beds, includes cooking facilities (as of Jan 2009).
The Barn at De Bos is closed during winter to stable the horses. Camping and other self-catering accommodation is still available.
Bungelows are also available from R250.

[http://www.rainbowglen.co.za Rainbow Glen] (Tel 023 614 1294)
Double Rooms from R350 (per couple)

There are supermarkets in town (Spar, OK Foods, etc) and restaurants in Montagu.

= Classic Routes=

* The Gospel Express (17)
* Nuclear Waste (20)
* Wildcard(24)
* Thruster (26)
* Daze of Thunder (27/28)
* Cool Like That (29)

= Montagu Area Map =
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.711917,19.986355 | [[Oorlogs Kloof]]
-33.821941,20.149584 | [[Lost World]]
-33.814130, 20.099668|Forest
-33.814506, 20.100920|Twin Fins
-33.814052, 20.097529|Hilti
-33.812413, 20.097465|Ramset
-33.813149, 20.096663|Bosch
-33.814032, 20.092526|The Panel
-33.813778, 20.091539|Legoland
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.813309, 20.101642|Skull
-33.814223, 20.089030|The Far Side
-33.802166, 20.095198|The Fort
-33.793572, 20.102257|The Bold & The Beautiful
-33.793292, 20.102420|The Alley
-33.797866, 20.101620|The Steeple
-33.801013, 20.108511|[[Cogmans Buttress]]
-33.804586, 20.108977|Eagles Folly Buttress
-33.800198, 20.108959|Castle in the Sky
-33.809996, 20.098951|The Matrix
-33.806475, 20.106508|The Shooting Gallery
-33.803112, 20.100117|Keur Kloof Entrance
-33.812488, 20.105046|The Rose Bowl
-33.811838, 20.107850|Joe's Garage
-33.813347, 20.111308|Vision
-33.816498, 20.120413|Heaven
-33.811933, 20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof
-33.783410, 20.099196|The Scoop
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.782461, 20.101328|Klipspringer Hut
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
-33.780232, 20.103545|The Cauldron
-33.779266, 20.112121|Donkerkloof Entrance
-33.836344,20.181406|[[Climbing on R62‎]]
</display_points>

= Climbing Areas =

==[[Bad Kloof]]==
Crags including: Berlin Wall, Jurrasic Park, Laundry, Lion Said, Peanut Gallery, Pipeline, Playground, Rage, Sloth, South Park, Supertubes, The Hotel, The Swamp, The Palace, Uriah Heep, Waterworld

==[[Bosch Kloof‎]]==
Crags including: Legoland, The Far Side, Bosch Crag, Ramset Crag, Forest Crag, Hilti Crag, Skull Crag, Twin Fins, The Panel Crags, Matrix

== [[Climbing on R62‎ | The Farm (Climbing on R62)]] ==
== [[Cogmans Kloof‎]] ==
** [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
** [[Cogmans Buttress]]
** [[Mystery Crag]]
** [[The Alley]]
** [[The Fort]]
** [[The Steeple]]

== [[Donker Kloof‎]]==

Crags containing: The Cauldron and The Scoop.

== [[Guano Caves‎]] ==

==[[Keur Kloof‎]]==
** [[Heaven]]
** [[Jamaica]]
** [[Joe's Garage]]
** [[Rose Bowl]]
** [[The Lineup]]
** [[The Shooting Gallery]]
** [[Vision]]

== [[Lost World‎]]==

==[[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]==
** [[Buttock Buttress]]
** [[Maverick Wall]]
** [[Meatloaf Wall]]
** [[Wildcard Buttress]]
** [[Le Pique-nique Area]]
** [[Snark Buttress]]
** [[Cowboy Area]]
** [[Cuts Both Ways Area]]
** [[Tower of Babel]]
** [[Canasta Buttress]]
** [[Seamster Buttress]]

>> Back to [[Western Cape]] page

Oorlogs Kloof

2013-02-28T11:09:48Z

Justin:

Buttock Buttress, Maverick Wall, Meatloaf Wall, Wildcard Buttress, Le Pique-nique Area, Snark Buttress, Cowboy Area, Cuts Both Ways Area, Tower of Babel, Canasta Buttress, Seamster Buttress
{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.717451
| Longitude = 19.982325
| Climbing Type = Trad and Sport
| Rock Type = Sandstone/Quartzite
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Montagu

}}

= How to get there =
- [http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=R318&daddr=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&hl=en&ll=-33.700016,19.996378&spn=0.003637,0.008256&sll=-33.73371,20.061545&sspn=0.116348,0.264187&geocode=FQPO_f0drBIxAQ%3BFYp7_P0d5PYyASnrJ_dH4kXSHTFoIP2K65uYag&oq=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&t=h&mra=ls&z=18|Directions via Google Map]

From Montagu, drive out on the R318 for approximately 19km's (going towards the Keisie valley). After you pass the Keisie Primary School, your turn off is approximately 1.4km's on your left. Follow a dirt road (the dirt road double backs on the 318).
Stop at the first farm house on your left, announce yourself and ask permission to drive up to the climbing Oorlogs Kloof. Drive up the road for another +- 8Km's until you get to a sandy parking area (a high clearance vehicle is best to take on this road - otherwise drive as far you are keen and then park on the side of the road.
See map below

= Fees & Permits =
Please announce yourself at the farm house and ask permission to climb in the kloof.
No fees or permits are required to climb at Oorlogs Kloof

= Accommodation & Food =
See the [[Montagu]] main page

= Attractions & Activities =
See the [[Montagu]] main page

= Map =
- Driving from Montagu [http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=R318&daddr=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&hl=en&ll=-33.700016,19.996378&spn=0.003637,0.008256&sll=-33.73371,20.061545&sspn=0.116348,0.264187&geocode=FQPO_f0drBIxAQ%3BFYp7_P0d5PYyASnrJ_dH4kXSHTFoIP2K65uYag&oq=Montagu,+Western+Cape,+South+Africa&t=h&mra=ls&z=18|Directions via Google Map]

[[File:Oorlogs kloof directions.jpg]]

File:Old school homemade bolts.jpg

2013-02-28T11:00:04Z

Justin: old school homemade bolts

old school homemade bolts

File:Canasta buttress 01.jpg

2013-02-28T10:57:27Z

Justin: Canasta Buttress

Canasta Buttress

File:Oorlogs kloof directions.jpg

2013-02-28T10:52:33Z

Justin: Oorlogs kloof directions

Oorlogs kloof directions

Fountain Ledge

2013-02-27T13:07:18Z

Justin: /* The Squid and the Whale (31) ***** */

=== '''Africa Edge 21''' ===

'''Start:''' Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.

'''Pitch 1 12m 16'''

Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
[[Image:Africa_Edge_1st_pitch.png|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 1''']]

[[Image:Africa_Edge_pitch_2_variations.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 2'''and pitches 3 to 5 on next buttress with the variations shown.]]

'''Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22'''

Ahead is the next buttress.

Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.

'''Pitches 3 to 5'''

[[Image:Africa_Edge_Pitches_3_to_5_V4.png|200px|thumb|left|Africa Edge Pitches 3 to 5]]
'''Pitch 3 20m 21:'''

Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.

'''Pitch 4 15m 20'''

Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.

'''Pitch 5 20m 22'''

Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.

'''First ascent: January 2009'''

Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick.
Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein
Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein

=== '''TATWOC 25''' ===

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.

[[Image:TATWOC_with_direct_finish_web_l.png|200px|thumb|right|'''TATWOC 25+ and Africa Edge 21 and Touch and Go 19''']]

'''Pitch 1 20m 23:'''

Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.

'''Pitch 2 20m 23:'''

Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
Pitch 3 25m 21:
Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.

'''Pitch 4 25m 25:'''

Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)

'''Descent:''' The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.

'''First ascent:''' 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!

First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008

==='''Arms Race Direct 25'''===

Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.

'''Pitches 2 and 3:'''

Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.

'''First ascent:'''

Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010

==='''La Vida 21'''===

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 18:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.

Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.

'''Pitch 3 10m 19:'''

From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.

'''Pitch 4 8m 18:'''

Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.

'''Pitch 5 30m 20:'''

Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.

Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009

==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''===

[[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 19:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.

'''Pitch 3 10m 21:'''

Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".

'''Pitch 4 30m 22 or 22+:'''

Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".

Or climb straight through the roof on REM and higher up pull through the overlap 2m left of the crux of the dream.

'''Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:'''

Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.

'''Pitch 6 20m 18:'''

Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010

==='''Roulette Arête 25, A2'''===

'''Start:''' At the extreme left end of Upper Fountain Ledge where one goes around the bulge to get to the start of Jacob's Ladder.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Climb the middle of the Roulette wall heading directly up and into the overhanging peapod. On the first rail head out left then up to the Roulette platform to stance.

'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''

Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.

'''Pitch 3 35m 19:'''

Head directly up. The route follows the proudest bulge on chicken heads and edges. Place gear when available. Not much to be had.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

==='''The Squid and the Whale (31) *****'''===

[[File:Squid-and-the-Whale.jpg|350x467px|thumb|alt=Climbing routes on Fountain Ledge | The Squid and the Whale - Jeopardy - Double Jeopardy]]

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

One of the hardest routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.

'''Start:''' Start on the staircase ledge about 5 meters to the right of the arête between Jeopardy and Jacobs ladder.

'''Pitch 1 40m (31):'''

Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the Roulette rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the Roulette ledge, rail right 2 meters and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings.
Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of Jeopardy to 2 more pegs and the Hook rail (the end of Jeopardy). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

'''Pitch 2:'''

Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

'''First ascent:''' J. Smith Feb 2013

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 15m 18:'''

From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.

'''Pitch 2 35m 21:'''

Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.

'''Pitch 3 35m 16:'''

Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009

==='''Fountain Reach-Up 21'''===

'''Route info:'''

The route is an old aid route done by Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers in 1970 which has not been freed up until now.

[[Image:Fountain_reach-up.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Reach Up on Fountain Ridge]]

The route has three pitches which go at 15, 21 and 10.

'''Start:'''

The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof one can make a stance and then continue up easily.

'''First ascent:''' Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers

'''First free Ascent:''' Brandon Smith and Catherine Philips

Fountain Ledge

2013-02-27T11:55:07Z

Justin:

=== '''Africa Edge 21''' ===

'''Start:''' Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.

'''Pitch 1 12m 16'''

Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
[[Image:Africa_Edge_1st_pitch.png|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 1''']]

[[Image:Africa_Edge_pitch_2_variations.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 2'''and pitches 3 to 5 on next buttress with the variations shown.]]

'''Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22'''

Ahead is the next buttress.

Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.

'''Pitches 3 to 5'''

[[Image:Africa_Edge_Pitches_3_to_5_V4.png|200px|thumb|left|Africa Edge Pitches 3 to 5]]
'''Pitch 3 20m 21:'''

Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.

'''Pitch 4 15m 20'''

Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.

'''Pitch 5 20m 22'''

Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.

'''First ascent: January 2009'''

Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick.
Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein
Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein

=== '''TATWOC 25''' ===

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.

[[Image:TATWOC_with_direct_finish_web_l.png|200px|thumb|right|'''TATWOC 25+ and Africa Edge 21 and Touch and Go 19''']]

'''Pitch 1 20m 23:'''

Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.

'''Pitch 2 20m 23:'''

Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
Pitch 3 25m 21:
Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.

'''Pitch 4 25m 25:'''

Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)

'''Descent:''' The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.

'''First ascent:''' 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!

First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008

==='''Arms Race Direct 25'''===

Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.

'''Pitches 2 and 3:'''

Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.

'''First ascent:'''

Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010

==='''La Vida 21'''===

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 18:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.

Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.

'''Pitch 3 10m 19:'''

From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.

'''Pitch 4 8m 18:'''

Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.

'''Pitch 5 30m 20:'''

Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.

Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009

==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''===

[[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 19:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.

'''Pitch 3 10m 21:'''

Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".

'''Pitch 4 30m 22 or 22+:'''

Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".

Or climb straight through the roof on REM and higher up pull through the overlap 2m left of the crux of the dream.

'''Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:'''

Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.

'''Pitch 6 20m 18:'''

Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010

==='''Roulette Arête 25, A2'''===

'''Start:''' At the extreme left end of Upper Fountain Ledge where one goes around the bulge to get to the start of Jacob's Ladder.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Climb the middle of the Roulette wall heading directly up and into the overhanging peapod. On the first rail head out left then up to the Roulette platform to stance.

'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''

Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.

'''Pitch 3 35m 19:'''

Head directly up. The route follows the proudest bulge on chicken heads and edges. Place gear when available. Not much to be had.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

==='''The Squid and the Whale (31) *****'''===

[[File:Squid-and-the-Whale.jpg|350x467px|thumb|alt=Climbing routes on Fountain Ledge | The Squid and the Whale - Jeopardy - Double Jeopardy]]

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

One of the hardest routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.

'''Start:''' Start on the staircase ledge about 5 meters to the right of the arête between Jeopardy and Jacobs ladder.

'''Pitch 1 40m (31):'''

Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the Roulette rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the Roulette ledge, rail right 2 meters and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings.
Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of Jeopardy to 2 more pegs and the Hook rail (the end of Jeopardy). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''

Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.

'''Pitch 2:'''

Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

'''First ascent:''' J. Smith Feb 2013

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 15m 18:'''

From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.

'''Pitch 2 35m 21:'''

Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.

'''Pitch 3 35m 16:'''

Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009

==='''Fountain Reach-Up 21'''===

'''Route info:'''

The route is an old aid route done by Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers in 1970 which has not been freed up until now.

[[Image:Fountain_reach-up.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Reach Up on Fountain Ridge]]

The route has three pitches which go at 15, 21 and 10.

'''Start:'''

The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof one can make a stance and then continue up easily.

'''First ascent:''' Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers

'''First free Ascent:''' Brandon Smith and Catherine Philips

File:Squid-and-the-Whale.jpg

2013-02-27T11:36:36Z

Justin: The Squid and the Whale. Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain

The Squid and the Whale. Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain

Fountain Ledge

2013-02-18T09:39:36Z

Justin:

=== '''Africa Edge 21''' ===

'''Start:''' Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.

'''Pitch 1 12m 16'''

Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
[[Image:Africa_Edge_1st_pitch.png|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 1''']]

[[Image:Africa_Edge_pitch_2_variations.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 2'''and pitches 3 to 5 on next buttress with the variations shown.]]

'''Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22'''

Ahead is the next buttress.

Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.

'''Pitches 3 to 5'''

[[Image:Africa_Edge_Pitches_3_to_5_V4.png|200px|thumb|left|Africa Edge Pitches 3 to 5]]
'''Pitch 3 20m 21:'''

Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.

'''Pitch 4 15m 20'''

Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.

'''Pitch 5 20m 22'''

Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.

'''First ascent: January 2009'''

Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick.
Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein
Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein

=== '''TATWOC 25''' ===

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.

[[Image:TATWOC_with_direct_finish_web_l.png|200px|thumb|right|'''TATWOC 25+ and Africa Edge 21 and Touch and Go 19''']]

'''Pitch 1 20m 23:'''

Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.

'''Pitch 2 20m 23:'''

Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
Pitch 3 25m 21:
Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.

'''Pitch 4 25m 25:'''

Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)

'''Descent:''' The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.

'''First ascent:''' 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!

First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008

==='''Arms Race Direct 25'''===

Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.

'''Pitches 2 and 3:'''

Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.

'''First ascent:'''

Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010

==='''La Vida 21'''===

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 18:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.

Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.

'''Pitch 3 10m 19:'''

From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.

'''Pitch 4 8m 18:'''

Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.

'''Pitch 5 30m 20:'''

Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.

Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009

==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''===

[[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 19:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.

'''Pitch 3 10m 21:'''

Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".

'''Pitch 4 30m 22 or 22+:'''

Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".

Or climb straight through the roof on REM and higher up pull through the overlap 2m left of the crux of the dream.

'''Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:'''

Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.

'''Pitch 6 20m 18:'''

Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010

==='''Roulette Arête 25, A2'''===

'''Start:''' At the extreme left end of Upper Fountain Ledge where one goes around the bulge to get to the start of Jacob's Ladder.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Climb the middle of the Roulette wall heading directly up and into the overhanging peapod. On the first rail head out left then up to the Roulette platform to stance.

'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''

Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.

'''Pitch 3 35m 19:'''

Head directly up. The route follows the proudest bulge on chicken heads and edges. Place gear when available. Not much to be had.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 15m 18:'''

From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.

'''Pitch 2 35m 21:'''

Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.

'''Pitch 3 35m 16:'''

Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009

==='''Fountain Reach Up 21'''===

'''Route info:'''

The route is an old aid route done by Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers in 1970 which has not been freed up until now.

[[Image:Fountain_reach-up.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Reach Up on Fountain Ridge]]

The route has three pitches which go at 15, 21 and 10.

'''Start:'''

The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof we made a stance and then continued up easily.

'''First ascent:''' Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers

'''First free Ascent:''' (Brandon Smith) and Catherine Philips

File:Fountain reach-up.jpg

2013-02-18T09:34:13Z

Justin: fountain Reach Up topo

fountain Reach Up topo

Climbing on R62

2013-01-04T10:53:01Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.784854
| Longitude = 20.116596
| Climbing Type = Sport, Multi-pitch, Trad
| Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Montagu

}}

= How to get there = Take the road towards Barrydale, after Guano Caves turnoff, keep an eye out for a gate with a sign that reads 'Rock Climbing on R62'

= Fees & Permits = R20 per day - Call the farmer BEFORE you go - 082 681 5570

= Accommodation & Food = Montagu

= Attractions & Activities = Montagu

= Map =

[[File:Climbing on R62.jpg]]

[[File:Climbing on R62 crag.jpg]] 
Above is a photo of the entrance to the farm - The climbing is in the kloof between the two yellow arrows (ignore the arrows - they are irrelevant)

>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

Rocklands

2012-12-12T10:11:42Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -32.14524
| Longitude = 19.033785
| Climbing Type = Bouldering & Sport
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = Autumn, Winter, Spring
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Rocklands

}}

Rocklands is undoubtedly famous for it's world class bouldering but this should not deter you from sampling the fine sport climbing. There is a large variety of quality climbing of all grades in both bouldering and sport climbing. All the sport routes are single pitch and you will have to do a small amount of walking to get to the different areas. Most of the original climbing is situated on Cape Nature Conservation (CNC) land and thus day permits must be obtained or a Wildcard from Cape Town or Porterville (small detour off the N7 on the way up). Many of the newer areas being developed are on private farms some which have small (30-40 rand)day fees.

== How to get there ==
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, take the N7 turnoff towards Malmesbury. Follow the N7 north for roughly 200km, eventually you come across a large dam after which you take the R364 turnoff towards Clanwilliam. Turn right at the T-junction and continue straight passed the town and up a small pass reaching a dirt road which is followed for about 16km until you hit another tar road. This is followed to the top off the pass where you'll spot a dirt road on the right. Park here and walk...

== Getting around ==
A car allows one to access the full range of areas in Rocklands. The bouldering is spread out along around 20 km of road. After parking there are generally with a number of clustered different sectors within walking distance of each other. Assuming one could get to the DePakhuys campsite, it would be possible to climb there without a car (300 or so problems within walking distance of the campground), though getting to town for supplies (26km) could be difficult unless other climbers provide transportation.

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =
Clanwilliam is the nearest town to resupply and is located about 20 minutes back down the road. It has everything you'll need in terms of camping, internet, restaurants and food but no climbing gear. Beancas currently has three computers for internet (slow but not horribly so)and the the gas station before the Shell has two.

Climbers generally either rent a house/cottage or camp. Most of the campground have cottages available for rent.

Currently, as of August 2008, the camping based climbing scene is centered at De Pakhuys with a large number of international climbers staying here. [http://www.depakhuys.com De Pakhuys] (phone 027 482 1468 or 027 482 1879) offers camping and cottages. It is 26km from Clanwilliam on the right after the paved road turns to dirt again, and [[De Pakhuys|bouldering area]] is on the farm. As of August 2008, camping is 40 Rand a night with a discount of 10 Rand if you stay over 7 days. There are flush toilets, hot showers, electricity, a fridge, sinks for dishwashing, a covered communal braai (BBQ) area, firewood, and wi-fi at the campsite. The camping also includes free access to the [[De Pakhuys|bouldering areas]] surrounding the campground, which normally has a fee of 30 Rand for access. Chalk can be purchased here and bouldering mats are for hire.

[http://www.alphaexcelsior.co.za/ Alpha Excelsior Guest Farm] is also a great alternative. It is down the other side of the pass about 1km from the ending of the tar road. Accommodation consists of self catering cottages (with optional breakfast) at R400 to R600 per cottage per night (April 2006). Contact Connie and Liz at conniedt@worldonline.co.za or phone 027 482 2700.

Another alternative is Klein Kliphuis (phone 027 482 2564) which offers camping and self-catering accommodation. Klein Kliphuis is about 11km from Clanwilliam (i.e., closer to Clanwilliam than the Kliphuis campsite). Rates are R30 per person per night (August 2008). This campsite is less sheltered from wind than the Kliphuis campsite.

If it opens again, the best place to stay would be the Kliphuis campsite (sites are R90/night). The campsite is just next to the Pakhuis Pass directly after the road changes from dirt to pavement at about 17km. Unfortunately, this campsite is currently closed (July 2007, August 2008). From talking to the farmer across the road it sounds like the campground will be closed until new management is found.

There are a number of supermarkets and restaurants in Clanwilliam, about 17km away. The supermarkets generally close around 7pm though basic supplies can be purchased at the gas station next to DeKelders until 9pm. There is also a butcher selling fresh meat, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biltong biltong] and even Ostrich Eggs (feeds 9 people) in town that closes at 5pm.

Cooking equipment can be purchased in Clanwilliam. The fuels Benzene, also known as white gas, and Paraffin, known as Kerosene can be bought in small quantities at the SuperSpar supermarket on the main street in town. Bulk quantities can be purchased at AgriMark, also known as the co-op which is on the right fork of the main road near the PriceClub supermarket. Gas-cartridges can be purchased there as well.

There are also a couple of restaurants in Clanwilliam with the 'Olifants Huis' (steak & pasta), Beancas (pizza & coffee) and De Kelder (burgers, beer & pizza)being my favorites.

The campsites also sell minimal amounts of basics at exhorbitant prices.

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-32.176484,18.891306||Clanwilliam
-32.149582,19.029239||Parking for [[:Category:Rocklands Sport Climbing]]
-32.138754,19.011923|Kliphuis Campsite
-32.164388,19.036406||Cedar Rouge
-32.164551,19.035612||Cattle Rustler & Orange Plasma
-32.160446,19.035891||The Island
</display_points>

 

= Closures =

*Black Shadow area

The Black Shadow area in Rocklands has been closed down due to graffiti on the boulders. MCSA is in communication with Klein Kliphuis and will be working on regaining access to this area via more effective means of keeping it clean and looking after it. In the meantime, we ask that you please do not climb at the Black Shadow area until further notice and kindly inform any other boulderers you meet who are intending to go there who might not be aware of the closure. We appreciate your compliance with the decision of the landowners to close this area for the time being.

== Classic Routes==
* Rubik's Cube (19)
* The Arête/ First Impressions (21)
* Orange Plasma (21)
* Ceder Rouge (24)
* Cattle Rustler (20)

== Rocklands Sport Climbing Areas ==
[[Rocklands Sport Climbing]] - Park as for Roadside Bouldering
* Crags included: Adultworld, Biscuit Wall, Black Slab, Cattle Rustler Area, Cedar Rouge Boulder, Chappelle Rock, Orange Plasma Wall, Outback Area, Rubik's Cube Wall, Skinner Boulder, Sunblock, The Bastille, The Fortress, The Island, Wildwest Wall

== Bouldering Areas ==
=== Road Crew|Bouldering - Road Crew ===
=== [[De Pakhuys|Bouldering - De Pakhuys]] ===

== Photos ==

[[Image:Rocklands1.jpg]]

[[Image:Rocklands2.jpg]]

== More Info==
Some of the routes (e.g. Alto Rouge 27 on the Sun Block) have really dodgy bolts. Be careful!

== Bolting ==
Bolting is allowed at Rocklands however a process needs to be followed - failure to comply to these regulations will result in the area being closed.
The procedure to bolt in Rocklands can be found here: http://alewis.its.uct.ac.za/mcsa/rock/manplan.html

>> Back to [[Western Cape]] page

Bronkies

2012-12-04T06:20:39Z

Justin:

[[Image:Bronkies_rightside.JPG]]
A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

== Getting there ==

From JHB:
* ''Either'' take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.
* ''Or'' take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.
''(Original directions courtesy of [http://www.climb.co.za climb za])''

== Access rules and arrangements ==
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:
* R20 for adults
* R10 for school going children above 12 years old
* R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:
* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though)
* '''NO FIRES''' are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)
* '''NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING''' - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours
* Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. '''PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS'''
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from the river, paths and climbing routes. Burry / carefully burn toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* No guns allowed
* In case of any accident / emergency call MCSA Mountain Search and Rescue on 074 125 1385 or alternatively 074 163 3952
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above

== Route Info ==
Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="20"|Route Name
!width="15"|Grade
!width="15"|Bolts
!width="15"|Height
!width="35"|Notes
|-
|-
|Tickled Pink ||12 *** ||.||.||.
|-
|Ranger's Delight||14 ** ||.||.||.
|-
|Fragile Ego ||17 *** ||5D,A||.|| downgraded from 18
|-
|Straight and Narrow||21 **||5D,A||.||Keep straight in line with the bolts!
|-
|Gert's Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|No More Freeloaders||15 ***||7D,A||.||.
|-
|Pumpkin Time||17||4D,A||.|| Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section
|-
|Modern Warfare||??||??||.|| ??
|-
|Fully||12 **||.||.||.
|-
|Kief||11 **||7D,A||.||Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!
|-
|Pumba's Delight||12 *||.||.||Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)
|-
|Maggies Nose||14 *||.||.||Upgraded from 7 (be fair to the new guys) - this route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag
|-
|When I was young I had this dilemma||20 ***||7D,A||.||Formerly known as as 'Derek's Dilemma' - Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.
|-
|Austin's Mojo||15 ***||7D,A||.||downgraded from 16
|-
|Mini Me||17 ***||.||.||downgraded from 18
|-
|Rastus||18 *||.||.||.Upgraded from 17
|-
|Man's Best Friend||15 **||.||.||Trad.
|-
|The Fallen Boot||15 ****||.||.||Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.
|-
|Gunning for Crows||16 ***||.||.||downgraded from 17
|-
|George's Bush||20 ***||9D,A||23m||Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.
|-
|Venus Fly Trap||18??||9D||.||New route, FA??BB??
|-
|Kate's Moss||17 ***||6D,A||.||Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t!
|-
|Tom's Cruise||16**||8D||.||FA/BB Guenther Bargon, Could be 17
|-
|Joint Venture||22 ***||11D||.||.
|-
|Yellow Submarine||24 ***||.||20m ||Powerful start!
|-
|After Burn||26 ****||.||.||.
|-
|Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose||25 ****||.||.||Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on.
|-
|Rat Kid||25 ****||.||.||Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.
|-
|Black Pearl||28 ***||.||.||Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer. First Ascent David Wade.
|-
|Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)||20 ***||.||18m ||Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish
|-
|Mostly Harmless||21 ***||.||25m ||.
|-
|Elton's John||21 ****||13D||20m ||.
|-
|Blue Boots||14 **||.||15m ||.
|-
|Wild Apricot||15 ***||.||.||.
|-
|Naked Orange||21 ***||.||.||downgraded from 22
|-
|Green Machine||18 ***||.||.||Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.
|-
|Footloose||25 **||5D ||.||For the boulderers! Short and powerfull!
|-
|The Shining||25 **||6D ||.||Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).
|-
|Bruce||22 ||.||27m||Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.
|-
|Rule Number One||22 ***||.||.||Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.
|-
|Wasabi||23 ***||12D||.||Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.
|-
|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches
|-
|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.
|-
|Fire Fly||24 ***||.||.||Overhanging and quite sustained.
|-
|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy!
|-
|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained.
|-
|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!
|-
|The Silence Of The Lambs||25 ***||.||.||Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: David Wade.
|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
! colspan="5" align="Left"|
A no-bolting policy is in place in the area either side of the Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles) nest. Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting.

Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010):
"We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter.
We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non breeding season to limit disturbance.
We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the area, and if at all posible, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have a relationship with eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc.
Any help on these matters would be appreciated.

Walter NESER, Vulpro, http://www.vultureconservation.co.za, email: wneser at gmail dot com"

Quote from Neil Smith:
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

I hope that this is of some assistance.
Regards,
Neil Smith
Manager Conservation Division
Birdlife South Africa
Tel: (0) 11 789 1122
Fax: 0866572891
Mobile (0) 82 859 3788"

Eagle update (May 2011):

Walter Neser had difficulties with the red tape and authorities and that he was not able to secure a chick for 2011 (the breeding season for black Eagles is already underway so it is too late already for 2011). He is still hopeful that a spare chick could be placed there in 2012 (it would then fledge at around Sept 2012).

Some stats on the Black Eagles population status in the Magaliesberg and surrounds: indications are that of the 13 odd confirmed breeding pairs of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg and immediate surrounds that was known to breed there in 1984 (David Allan) declined to just 2 in a 2004 study (Craig Whittington-Jones)- bottom line: there are very few left. The MCSA Magaliesberg Section has, via the Richard Watmough Memorial fund, commissioned an aerial survey (i.e. micro lights) of the Magaliesberg to confirm the population status of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg area. The results are not yet available.

|-
! colspan="5" style="background:yellow;"|End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest
|-
|Paranoia||23 ***||9D ||.||Upgraded from 22
|-
|Devil's Concubine||22 ****||13D||.||Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple
|-
|Devil's Disciple||21 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Hello "Clarice"||22 *****||11D ||.||.
|-
|Stone Dogs||21 **||11D||.||Intense start, eases up after that.
|-
|The Dark Half||22 ***||6D ||.||Short, but sure to get you pumped!
|-
|Insomnia||24 ***||7D ||.||Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".
|-
|Lamb to the Slaughter||20 ***||11D ||.||.
|-
|Hannibal Lecter||23 ***||10D ||.||Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence.
|-
|Memoirs of a Belay Bunny||22 ****||.||.||Cool route. Facey start with a pumpy finish through the roofs.
|-
|If Women Were Gods||20 ****||14D||.||A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained!
|-
|Urban Raptors||24 ***||13D||.||.
|-
|Grim Reaper||20 ***||8D ||.||Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19
|-
|Rock Flower||16 **||10D||.||Grade adjusted from 17.
|-
|Squeaker||16 ***||.||.||Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.
|-
|P.M.S.||20 ***||.||.||Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.
|-
|Devil's Advocate||26 ***||.||.||. Very powerfull and bouldery crux.
|-
|Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)||Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.||.||.||.FA:Put your name here!
|-
|Ex Girlfriend's Crack||19 ***||.||.||For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!
|-
|Angry Dragon||21||.||.||
|-
|The Bat||24***||11D||.||Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade. First Ascent: David Wade.
|-
|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|}

Krakadouw

2012-12-03T10:51:05Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -32.200019
| Longitude = 19.087143
| Climbing Type =
| Rock Type =
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area =

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

Tired of the crowds? Need some time away? Look no further than Krakadouw....

Krakadouw is an area of the Northern Cedarberg. It is similar to the better known Tafelberg and Wolfberg climbing areas, but has a different, more remote vibe. The walk-in is easier than tafelberg, but takes about as long. The climbing takes place on amphitheaters on the Southern and Western sides of the Groot Krakadouw peak, as well as some single pitch routes on middle Krakadouw. You'll need a Cape Nature Conservation permit. No bolting allowed, and no fires. Need further convincing? Picture gallery [[http://www.climb.co.za/gallery2/thumbnails.php?album=40, here]]

=Getting there=
==Driving (3h45m)==
[[http://maps.google.co.za/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Cape+Town,+South+Africa&daddr=-32.140734,19.187622+to:Unknown+road&hl=en&geocode=FUBd-v0dMh4ZASmVgcs2_1rMHTHgbY-Q1vgABA%3B%3BFZy-FP4d1DEjAQ&mra=dpe&mrcr=0&mrsp=1&sz=9&via=1&sll=-33.028105,18.751295&sspn=2.307286,4.490662&ie=UTF8&ll=-32.223839,19.207535&spn=0.582043,1.122665&t=h&z=11, gmap]]

Drive up the N7 for 215km.

Take the R364, passing through Clanwilliam and over the Pakhuis pass (Rocklands). Turn right after 42km on to a gravel road towards Wuppertal / Biedouw.

Turn right after 26km towards Heuningvlei (signposted), then follow the signs to Heuningvlei.

Just after the final descent and stream crossing, about 1km before Heuningvlei village you will notice a turn-off to the left (not signposted).

Turn left and drive about 300m up the road where you can take a road to the right. About 75m up this road you will see a gate and a Cape Nature Conservation signboard. Park in the cleared area before the gate on the right.

NB: GPS maps think that the 11km road directly from Pakhuis to Heuningvlei village is do-able. Unless you have friends in the CNC, keys for the gates and a good 4x4/donkey cart you'll need to follow the directions above...

NBB: Safe parking at the Heuningvlei village - [http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/12/crime-at-krakadouw See: Crime at Krakadouw]

==Walking in (3hr)==
From the parking lot, follow the road to the Heuningvlei hut (a small stone hut). From the hut, leave the road and cross the marshy stream (heading South) and walk up a steep, clearly defined path to vlakte.

On this vlakte there is an obvious pointy beacon. Here, you must choose whether to follow the path to the summit, or to take the climbers track to the neck between groot and middel Krakadouw.

Summit path (clearly marked): From the beacon on the vlakte just above the hut follow the path along the vlakte. You will pass though a line of cedar trees and the path will take you up a valley towards the summit. From the top of the valley (last reliable water) you can follow a cairned path towards the Southern trig beacon (some scrambling required). Roughly 250m NE of the S summit beacon there is an obvious S facing cave which can sleep several people.

Climbers Path to Nek: From the beacon on the vlakte just above the hut leave the summit path and walk towards and through a clump of dead cedar trees. Walk up a sandy gully and onto another vlakte. Keeping a cedar grove on your right head up the valley towards the nek following the cairns. Camp on the Nek or traverse towards the amphitheaters to a small bivvy cave.

=General Climbing Info=
==GPS Coordinates==

===Parking===
32.21235S; 19.10594E
===Veldwagters Hut===
32.21519S; 19.08976E (Good for overnight, Close to water)

===Path Junction===
32.2196S; 19.08487E (Keep Left/South for Summit, Keep Right/West for Saddle)

===Saddle Camp (Middle Krakadouw)===
32.22861S; 19.06724E (Sheltered, but NOT rainproof)

===Saddle Water===
32.22618S; 19.07009E (Drip under a rock. Reasonably constant)

===Groot Krakadouw - Cave marked in RED on Summit Map===
32.2395S; 19.06323E (Good Cave. Sleeps 5 to 7. Water close by)

===Abseil Point at Gendarme (Approximate)===
32.235820S; 19.062416E

==Climbing Locality==
[[File:Krakadouwlocality.JPG|600px|thumb|centre|Krakadouw locality]]]

Map drawn by Mike Hislop, 1992 journal.

==Summit Map==
[[File:Krakadouw Summit Map.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Krakadouw Summit Map]]

Map Origin Ernst Lotz 
[https://5833782957114143788-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/mcsaste/argief/NuusbriefNo-263.pdf?attachauth=ANoY7coplLE-xjeqbG5QOo0RLQVHmh56ivoY2an34qJBQOWTdivzSwBOFXCRQDd1WbS0j8a2-z7ew-xiLEoZSTL82WJ_l85iB2pxTmowQsFScgfyNr1H6o14X_M_lKFrYpZ0eX91ITDe9siLVccaY4giKo4YsYNnhYdW7IO1sYan2MwDZQUfq3VdyeJx27h_yPSfSzIooFQXhHgCNzXET6xYKm7Py-DLFQ%3D%3D&attredirects=0 Ernst Lotz - Click here for more information on this climbing legend]

==Descent Notes==
Version 1: Follow stone beacons from the trig survey summit, down to a grassy vlakte. A beacon indicates where one breaks left, towards Clanwilliam, down a subsidiary gully. From here, follow from 'Wolfberg Cracks-like' passages, climbing down chockstones until eventually emerging the massive grey tower separating the two climbing amphitheaters. Follow the right hand (i.e. Heuningvlei side) gully behind it, down more chockstones till above the saddle halfway up the tower. Three abseils down on the Heuningvlei side to get down. Note: The directions are given as one descends, facing outwards. Written by Mike Scott, 1988 MCSA journal.

Version 2: Walk and scramble into the large grass filled gully between the main and subsidiary amphitheaters. Follow this towards the wall. Water will be found here. Just after this point stay left and scramble down into a grassy gully. Follow this to a point where you can traverse right (facing out). Just above and to the right of the gendarme a good abseil anchor shall be found (look around for it). 30m takes you into the gap. The next abseil anchor is towards the subsidiary amphitheater. Author unknown!

==MCSA Journal Articles==
Smith, K.M. King Kong. A new route on the Krakadouw Amphitheatre,
Cedarberg. 83: 69, 1980. Tec.

Smith, Kevin. Some recent climbing at the Cedarberg Krakadouw.
Nobody-sauras; Juggernaut; Rastus; Leviathan. 86: 94-96, 1983. Tec.

Lomax, Chris. New routes on the Krakadouw, Cedarberg, Cape. Monkey
Tricks; Kayaman. 86: 97-98, 1983. Tec.

de Klerk, Andrew. New routes at Krakadouw. God of Thunder;
Icthyasaurus. 87: 137, 1984. Tec.

de Klerk, Andrew. New routes at Cedarberg Krakadouw. Exodus; Random
Winds; Total Eclipse. 89: 140, 1986. Tec.

Curson, Clive. New roofs in the Cedarberg. Coming of age; Chicane. 90:
124-125, 1987. Tec.

Scott, Michael. Krakadouw Amphitheatre. An updated description. 91:
139, 1988. Tec.

Middlemiss, Stewart. A new route on Krakadouw. Hanging Round. 91: 145,
1988. Tec.

Shewell, D.V. New routes in the Cederberg. Clash of Wants. 91: 142, 1988.

Hislop, Mike. More Routes On Krakadouw. 94: 188-189, 1991. Map, Tec. 2 rtes.

February, Ed. Monkey Tricks. Krakadouw, Cederberg. 94: 199, 1991. Tec.

=Topos=
Neither the artist nor origin of these drawings are no known to the poster.

==Australopithecus and The Last of the Great Explorers - 23==
"Another masterpiece in route finding. The absolute must do"
FA: T. Versfeld, E February, C. Jackson - 1993

[[File:Australopithecus Continued.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Australopithecus 23]]

[[File:Australopithecus and The Last of the Great Exploreres - 23.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Australopithecus 23]]

==Gorilla Grooves - 22==
' "A totally anthropoid experience!!!" D. Cheesmond in his 50 Selected Routes '
FA: G. Orilla, G. Lacey, D. Cheesmond - 1977

[[File:Gorilla Grooves 22.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Gorilla Grooves 22]]

==Icthyosaurus - 21==
"The obvious layback crack up the amphitheater. Mega!"
FA: E. February, A. de Klerk, T Versveld - 1983

[[File:Icthyosaurus 21.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Icthyosaurus 21]]

==Piltdown Man - 21==
(Previously: On Hold)
FA: L. Rust, T. Versveld - 2001
"Just Pull down man!"

[[File:Piltdown Man 21.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Piltdown Man 21]]

>> Back to [[Cederberg]] page

Vanrhynsdorp

2012-11-29T06:48:27Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -31.594913
| Longitude = 18.743248
| Climbing Type = Trad and Sport
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = All year
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Vanrhynsdorp

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

== General Info ==

Also know as Gifberg.

=== How to get there ===

[[Image:map_to_Vanrhynsdorp.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Map to Vanrhynsdorp]]

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-31.69195" lon="18.844299" zoom="11">
-31.782521, 18.894746, Waterfall Resort
-31.755649, 18.987293, Baievlei Crags
</googlemap>

=== Access & Restrictions ===

*WATERVAL
To gain access to “Waterval” simply contact the lady in charge: 027 219 1005

It is a guest farm with rustic chalets and camping (the fee for camping is calculated in a complicated way)

http://www.watervalresort.co.za/

*BAIEVLEI
To gain access to “baievlei” you’ll have to chat to Johan’s (the owner) son. Jaco 0272191472.

To get to the “baievlei” crags you’ll either have to walk about 1km or have a serious 4x4.

** Please be courteous to everyone there and respect the land and its owners
** NOTE that both Waterval and Baievlei's main water supply/catchment is at the individual crags. Please keep it clean.

== Area Map ==
[[Image:Area_-map.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Area Map]]

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-31.77931" lon="18.889983" zoom="16">
-31.782666, 18.894982, Waterfall Resort
-31.780532, 18.884211, First Gully
-31.781226, 18.884532, Johan's 19
-31.78097, 18.887515, Lowest Pool
-31.78004, 18.886271, Warm Water Waltz
-31.777632, 18.889167, Boom Straat
-31.779365, 18.889039, Waterfall Storybook
</googlemap>

== Upper Waterfall Area ==

=== Waterval Storieboek – (19) ===
FA: July 2007 - Phlip Olivier, Johann Papendorf, Johan Burger

On the main buttress to the right of the waterfall and left of the big overhang is a open book with two vertical cracks on either side of a column. Climb the left crack.

*Pitch 1) ‘16’ Start on the grey lichenous face heading left to the small chimney / off width. Stance at top Chimney / off width on a small ledge.
*Pitch 2) ‘18’ Climb the layback crack to a small ledge with a tree. Climb the face directly above the crack and to the left of the tree to a big ledge under a big roof and stance
*Pitch 3) ‘19’ Walk 5m to the right and climb the crack into a corner with small roofs. Pull through the roofs to the summit.

Decent: Head right to the gully and path leading down and back to the waterfall.

[[Image:Waterval_Storieboek.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Waterval Storieboek]]

=== Warm Water Waltz – (22) ===
FA: October 2007 - Phlip Olivier, Johann Papendorf.

Multipitch sport route breaking through the roofs to the left of the waterfall requiring 13 ‘draws

*Pitch 1) ‘22’ 30m
*Pitch 2) ‘20’ 27m
*Pitch 3) ‘21’ 21m
*Bolts kindly sponsored by the MCSA Hottentots Holland Section.
[[Image:Warm_Water_Waltz.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Warm Water Waltz]]

=== Grovel Road - (22) ===
FA: October 2012 - Albert Smit, Craig Turvey, Rufaan de Bruyn & Louis Smit.

On the Upper Waterfall Ledge, to the right of the waterfall and to the left of the big overhang is an open book with 2 vertical cracks either side of the column. Climb the right crack. This is a 45m off width, so bring your biggest friends along.

*Pitch 1 (16) 22m
Start at the right hand base of the column and head up into the crack, a nice ledge on your right is reached after 22m.

*Pitch 2 (19) 24m
Continue up the crack. At the little roof, head leftwards up into the off width, on to a big ledge, shared with Waterval Sorieboek. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined if your rack lasts.

*Pitch 3 (22) 15m
Walk 12m right along the ledge until you reach a tree where the ledge tapers out. Break through the small roof and continue up into the recess. Head leftwards at the top overhang to top out.
An alternative finish would be to join the last pitch of “Waterval Storieboek”.

[[Image:Grovel road.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Grovel Road]]

== Driving Miss Daisy Area ==

On the buttress to the far right of the waterfall.
Approach either by following the path past the waterfall to the top and following the plateau or by crossing the river via the jeep track and making your way directly over the hill. There is no path for the second option, but is probably closer and quicker.

=== Driving Miss Daisy - '17' ===
October 2007

Johann Papendorf, Phlip Olivier

*Pitch 1) ‘15’ Between a red face on the right and a grey face on the left is a ledge above a tree. Climb the white face to gain a crack. Follow the crack to the ledge 15m up.
*Pitch 2) ‘17’ Follow the crack and finish by pulling though a small roof.

=== Little Miss Sunshine - '17' ===
June 2008

Nicholas Le Maitre, Dirk Kruger

*Pitch 1) ‘15’ Climb the face of the left of P1 of 'Driving Miss Daisy'. Climb the corner to the large ledge 15m up.
*Pitch 2) ‘17’ Climb from the extreme righthand edge of the belay ledge. Climb the face via the rails and the vertical crack. Finish by pulling through a small roof.

=== Herbie Goes Offroad - '19R' ===
June 2008

Johann Papendorf, Phlip Olivier

*Pitch 1) '19'
*Pitch 2) '18R'

[[File:Driving Miss Daisy Area.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Driving Miss Daisy Area]]

== Boom Straat ==

Getting There: +/- 40min
Follow the footpath along the river past the 1st pool and up to the gully to the left of the waterfall. Continue up the gully and top out to the right. Move along the top till you reach the waterfall. Follow the river against the stream staying to the left of the kloof. At the fork, scramble down into the kloof and head down the right hand branch. At the next fork the crag is on your left.

Info:
All the routes at this crag use natural gear. An easy scramble around the left of the crag gives you access to the top for putting up a top rope or retrieving gear at the end of the day.

Routes:
=== - 1 - With a little help from my Friends (15) ===
Climb the tree till you can reach the rail. Continue to top / FA (2008), Nic Le Maitre
=== - 1 - (Direct) - Without help from my friends (20) ===
Ignore the tree / FA (2008), Phlip Olivier

=== - 2 - Passing the Pocket (18) ===
FA (2008), Phlip Olivier
=== - 3 - Fire in the Sky (17) ===
FA (2008), Phlip Olivier
=== - 4 - Deep Purple (16) ===
FA (2008), Phlip Olivier
=== - 5 - Smoke on the Water (17) ===
FA (2008), Johann Papendorf
=== - 6 - Get me to the Church on Time (18) ===
FA (2008), Phlip Olivier

[[Image:Boomstraat.png|600px|thumb|centre|Boom-st]]

== First Gully Area ==

First Gully

Getting there: Follow the footpath along the river past the 1st pool, then past the turn to the 2nd pool keeping left to the path and up to the gully.

Info: There is a mixture of Sport and Trad routes at this gully. I do not know the names of these routes and am just putting down the names we normally use to refer to them.

[[Image:1st Gully 1.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|First Gully Area A]]

[[Image:1st gully 3.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|First Gully Area B]]

Routes:
=== - 1 - Johan’s 19 (20) ===
[[Image:Johan's-19.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Johan's 19]]
*Natural
*FA (200?), Johan Burger & Co
*FFA (2008), Johann Panpendorf & Phlip Olivier.

A fantastic 3 pitch grade 20
This route can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. It is a beautiful dihedral. An easy description for it will be: “Follow the dihedral crack to the top.”

=== - 2 - The Pinnacle Route (17) ===
[[Image:1st gully 2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|The Pinnacle Route]]
*Sport / FA (200?), Johan Botha & Co.
*As you enter the gully this fully equipped sport route is on the obvious pinnacle to the left.

=== - 3 - The Extension to the Pinnacle (18) ===
*Sport / FA (200?), Johan Botha & Co.
*Start at the top of the pinnacle. You can either walk around to the top or do route #2 and #3 as one.

=== - 4 - The Easy Trad Route (16) ===
*Natural with Chains / FA (200?), Johan Botha & Co.
*To the right of #3. Follow the easiest way to the anchors at the top.

=== - 5 - The Easy Trad Route Direct (19) ===
*Natural with Chains / FA (2007), Johann Papendorf.
*Climb the direct line to the anchors.

[[Image:1st gully 4.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Johan's 20 & Fransie's Arete]]
=== - 6 - Johan’s 20 (20/21) ===
*Sport / FA (200?), Johan Botha & Co.
*This route is on the opposite side of the gully. You’ll pass it if you opt to walk from #2 to #3.

=== - 7 - Fransie Buurman’s Arete (19?) ===
*Natural / FA (2007), Fransie Buurman.
*Climb the obvious arête.

== Lowest Pool Area ==

[[File:Lowest Pool copy.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Lowest Pool Area]]

=== AquaDucks – '20' ===
*First Ascent: Johann Papendorf. April 2010

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left.
Gain the “Grey Ledge” via first moves of “Teardrops from Heaven” (RD to follow)
From the “Grey Ledge” find the obvious corner crack.

*Climb the corner crack in 1 pitch.

Descent: Rap from the prow in 25m to gain the Grey Ledge. Alternatively, scramble up 10m and follow the path down.

[[File:AquaDucks_20_-_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|AquaDucks]]

=== Teardrops From Heaven - '11' ===
*First Ascent: Johann Papendorf, Dalene Viljoen, Ulli Deutschlander, Phlip Olivier. April 2010

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Scramble until the bottom of the Grey Ledge.

*Pitch 1) ‘11’ Gain the Grey ledge and traverse right. Climb to the next large ledge and walk right to right of the big block.
*Pitch 2) ‘11’ Climb towards a 2m tall crack. Climb the crack. Traverse into the exposure until below an obvious short corner. Climb the corner to a ledge under roofs. Walk past the blocks on the ledge and stance at the end of the ledge.
*Pitch 3) ‘11’ Step onto the black blocks. Step right and climb to the top.

It is recommended to climb only when the waterfall is completely dry, but it may be possible to climb if there is a small waterfall.

=== Half Jack - '23' ===
*First Ascent: Phlip Olivier. April 2010

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left.
Gain the “Grey Ledge” via first moves of “Teardrops from Heaven”
Walk to the right most edge of the “Grey Ledge”

* Head up and right till the black and grey ledges run out. On the face in front of you you'll find an ear-shaped flake. Use this and slopy rails to gain the roof above. Pull through this and the next roof, over a thin black face and onto the big ledge shared with “Teardrops from Heaven”. From a block on the ledge pull strenuously through the roof onto a short black face leading to the top.

Descent: Follow the path down. Alternatively rap 52m from the lip of the fall.

== Baievlei ==

[[Image:Baievlei.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Baievlei (see above for access arrangements]]

=== 1st Upon a time – ‘19’ ===
January 2007

Phlip Olivier, Johann Papendorf.

Start in the small corner on the Column.

*Pitch 1) ‘18’ Follow the corner and crack to a hand traverse. Traverse left to a ledge under a roof. Stance on the upper right block.
*Pitch 2) ‘19’ Take off from the block and move right onto the face and break past the roof. Continue on the face through rails to a big ledge. (rap anchor under blocks)
*Pitch 3) ‘19’ Climb the face, keeping to the right. Through difficult and deep rails. Pass some vegetation. Continue on the face on the right to a ledge with a bottomless chimney.
*Pitch 4) ‘18’ Climb the chimney on the left. Pull through the overhangs and step onto the face left of the chimney. Continue up the arête to the top.

[[Image:1st_2nd_Vanrhynsdorp.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|1st and 2nd]]

=== A Second Coming – ‘20’ ===
May 2007

Phlip Olivier, Johann Papendorf.

*Pitch 1) ‘20’ Start just to the left of the arête 10m from to the right of the corner. Climb thorough the break in the small roof. Continue up the face on the left to a dassie ledge 12m up. Traverse right onto the arête. Climb up and left to the bottom of the white patch. Handjam traverse to the right. Climb up past the left of the roof to a ledge and a stance under a big roof.
*Pitch 2) ‘18’ Climb in the corner directly above the stance and up to the roof (#4 cam). Traverse out right onto the nose. Climb the rails straight up to the blank face. Hanging stance.
*Pitch 3) ‘17’ Traverse right until able to continue up onto the big ledge with the massive blocks. Walk to the right of the ledge and climb up to a small horizontal fin. Move left past the fin and immediately up to a good ledge and stance.
*Pitch 4) ‘16’ Step up to the left and climb towards the arête. Climb the arête and face to the top.

=== 3 to Thunder – ‘24’ ===
FA: July 2007
Phlip Olivier, Johann Papendorf.
FFA: April 2010
Phlip Olivier

Below the RD for the first ascent.
*Gain the “Thunder Ledge” via “Initiation Scramble” (D grade).

*Follow the main rightward leaning crack in the middle of the face in 3 pitches.

*Pitch 1) ‘21’ Stance under a small roof against a slab.
*Pitch 2) ‘24’ Stance on the ledge.
*Pitch 3) ‘23’ Follow the crack to the top. Finish through the overhangs to the left.

Alternative RD (As per 1st free ascent)
*Pitch 1) ‘24’
*Follow the main crack,
*Traverse the handjams under the roof,
*follow the crack through the roof to the main ledge.
*Stance on the ledge.

*Pitch 2) ‘23’
*Follow the crack to the top.
*Finish through the overhangs to the left.

[[File:3_to_Thunder_small.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|3 to Thunder]]
+
[[File:3_To_Thunder_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|3 to Thunder]]

Check out [http://www.climb.co.za/article.asp?id=135 Pics of climbing at Vanrhynsdorp]

>> Back to [[Cederberg]] page

File:Grovel road.jpg

2012-11-29T06:46:19Z

Justin: Grovel Road at Vanrhynsdorp Waterval - Rock Climbing

Grovel Road at Vanrhynsdorp Waterval - Rock Climbing

Llandudno

2012-11-09T13:31:46Z

Justin:

Llandudno is best known for it short desperate slab climbing above dodgy bolts from the 80's. But more recently it is being frequented by a new generation of climbers looking for new urban bouldering areas. If nothing else it's a sweet spot to chill with your buddies after a good training session and watch the sun go down over the sea.

=== Season ===
All year round

=== Rock ===
Very rough granite that contains large crystals which are used as holds

=== Gear ===
Sport climbing: Short rope and not many draws but BIG balls! Bouldering: A crashpad, loads of chalk and super skin!

People have been climbing on the short hard slabs on the right of the beach for ages but in the last few years there been little to no action as the bolts have become increasingly fragile. With the popularity of bouldering Llundudnio too has been seeing ever increasing traffic from people rediscovering the surprisingly featured rock. There are loads of quality problems hidden amongst the jumbled boulders on both side of the beach just waiting...

=== The climbing ===
The sport climbing is on near vertical slab with rough crystals as holds. It is highly technical and quite hard for the grade as many of the origanal holds have come off over the years. The bolts are old and fragile and you DO risk serious injury if they break. Toproping is a popular alternative or a means to gauge the route before it is attempted on lead. There is a large variety of boulder problems to choose from but most require either brass balls or short term memory.

=== Getting there ===
From Cape Town, take the Atlanic coast road past Camps Bay towards Hout Bay. Turn into Llandudno before Hout Bay.

=== Food and accommodation ===
Sundowners at the famous La Med is always an option after a day at Llundudno!

=== Guide Books/References ===
The previous edition of Western Cape Crags written by Guy Holwill contains most of the routes. As for the boulders, not much is known about who has done what over the years until Joe Möhle published a PDF guide
* [http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Llandudno_Bouldering_Guide_Feb_2012.pdf Click here to download the Llandudno Bouldering by Joe Möhle]

=== Notes ===
Excellent beach to swim at. Mind the dumping waves and stay away from the surfers. Challenge: prove you're a hard man and keep your head underwater for 10 seconds.

[[file:Llandudno_bouldering.jpg‎]] 
Above: Above: Joe Möhle getting some big air on Zero Gravity 7B+. Photo by Jimbo Smith

File:Llandudno bouldering.jpg

2012-11-09T13:30:33Z

Justin: Joe Möhle getting some big air on Zero Gravity 7B+ at Llandudno. Photo by Jimbo Smith

Joe Möhle getting some big air on Zero Gravity 7B+ at Llandudno. Photo by Jimbo Smith

Bobbejaans Berg

2012-11-08T12:06:27Z

Justin:

* Attention:
This crag is unfortunately closed.
MCSA is attempting/negotiating with the owner and the situation is a bit delicate.
Please stay away till further notice

Forum topic here: [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48548&t=9341 Bobbejaansberg/Mutango Lodge closed.]

== Getting there ==

Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20.
Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps.
Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.

A map is available on [http://www.mutango.co.za Mutango Lodge] - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.

GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E

[[Image:Bb3s.jpg|Bb3s.jpg|BobbejaansBerg main crag]]

== Notes ==
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.

NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply.
The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.

== Access rules and arrangements ==
This crag is unfortunately closed.
MCSA is attempting/negotiating with the owner and the situation is a bit delicate.
Please stay away till further notice

Forum topic here: [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48548&t=9341 Bobbejaansberg/Mutango Lodge closed.]
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.

Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners '''first'''

* Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
* You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
* '''Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of April 2012'''
* Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
* Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
* Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
* NO FIRES are allowed
* Reduce disturbance to animals
* No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
* Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
* Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
* Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
* Respect other visitors
* Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
* Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
* '''No graffiti will be tolerated.'''

The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above.
Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.

Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
* To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
* Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
* At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
* Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.

Contact persons (manager):
* Stephan 082 577 2643

== Route Info ==
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners.
Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above.
Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.

* UB = U-bolt
* C = Chains

{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="35%"|Route Name
!width="5%"|Grade
!width="5%"|Bolts
!width="5%"|Height
!width="50%"|Notes
|-
|-
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.
|-
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney
|-
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!
|-
|SnailTrail||18||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Up swiftly||22||+- 11D, C||.||.
|-
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"
|-
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.
|-
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.
|-
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer
|-
|Project||.||.||.||.
|-
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts ||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.
|-
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||'''NO CHAINS''', 2nd bolt rather high
|-
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.
|-
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished
|-
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||'''Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts'''
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?
|-
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rooky||17||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Curtain||18||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Entertainer||22||7+D, UB||.||.
|-
|Rockstar||21||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.
|-
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed
|-
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.
|-
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed
|-
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.
|-
|.||.||.||.||.
|-
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33759#p33728 See post by Brian]
|-
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.
|-
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius
|-
|Rooikappie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Trompie||10||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Heidi||13||7D, UB||.||.
|-
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.
|-
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.
|-
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.
|-
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.
|-
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)
|}

Boulder Area

[[File:Rough Map of Bobbejaan's berg.png]]

Building in top left corner is the ablution block in the caravan park. Trail begins at a "White Spot" of paint on a rock under the trees. Follow the dots to the various areas.

[[File:Warmup Area.jpeg]]
Swatting Mosquitos: 7A. Start on thin crimps and head up slopers. FA: Adam Ludford 2011.

Farside Traverse: 7A+. Start as for Swatting Mosquitos and head right avoiding the big ledge at the top. Top out as for Midway Traverse. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Midway Traverse: 6c+. Begin on square hold, move up and traverse right on slopey holds above the roof. Top out to the right on big ledges. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.

Unknown Dyno: 6C. Start to the left of the tree on crimps, just to upper ledge and top out. FA: PUT YOUR NAME HERE!!

[[File:Blindside Boulder.jpeg]]

[[File:Blindside Arete Start.jpeg]]

Blindside Arete: 7C. Begin with left hand in small undercling on the edge of roof, right hand in the slot crimp. Pull up, move up and left. Top out on flat holds on top. FA: Adam Ludford 2011. Downgraded to 7C after some more experience.

[[File:Acrophobia 7C+.jpg]]

Acrophobia: 7C. Begin hugging the feature. Work your way up through the overhang and top out. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right until you down-climb after topping out. FA: Brian Weaver 2011. Downgraded to 7C after some more experience.

Cable Way Crags

2012-09-18T21:34:25Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area

| Latitude = -25.719614
| Longitude = 27.884581
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Rock Type =
| Season = All year round
| Province = Gauteng
| Area = Hartebeesport dam

}}

== General ==

A new crag for easy to moderate climbs within 45 minutes of Joburg and Pretoria! A guidebook is available to the new Cableway Crags near Hartebeespoort. Pierre Carter and friends have put up about 15 climbs graded between 10 and 23. The crags are accessed from the top cable-car station, or by walking up from the bottom of the hill.

Access has been carefully arranged so please stick to the rules in the guide and be sure to to sign the register book kept at the Cableway ticket office at the bottom of the hill. Enjoy the climbing and please provide feedback via the forum.

The rock is fairly shattered / and lose in places but will improve with traffic. Wear helmets and be careful!

All bolts were kindly supplied by the MCSA Johannesburg and Magaliesberg Sections. If you are climbing on them, you should really become a member in support of their continuing efforts to develop and protect our crags.

== How to get there ==
Find your way to the Aerial Cable way near Hartebeesport dam.

== Fees & Permits ==
Visitors must sign the access book at the cableway ticket office and or Adventure shop located in the bottom cableway the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover, with the indemnity form for signing inside.

== Accommodation & Food ==

== Attractions & Activities ==

== Bolting / New Routes ==

A no-bolting policy is in place in the area to the West of the cableway, nesting Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles). Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting.

== PDF Guide ==

* [http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Cable_Way_Crags_Guide_Sep_2012.pdf Download the PDF topo here]

[[Category:Gauteng]]

Cable Way Crags

2012-09-17T11:09:05Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area

| Latitude = -25.719614
| Longitude = 27.884581
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Rock Type =
| Season = All year round
| Province = Gauteng
| Area = Hartebeesport dam

}}

== General ==

This area of easy and moderate climbs has been developed by Pierre Carter and friends. It is a convenient distance from Joburg and Pretoria. At the time of writing, there are not too many climbs open yet but there is lots of potential at the bottom and further East along the ridge. The rock is fairly shattered / and lose in places but will improve with traffic. Wear helmets and be careful!

All bolts were kindly supplied by the MCSA Johannesburg and Magaliesberg Sections. If you are climbing on them, you should really become a member in support of their continuing efforts to develop and protect our crags.

== How to get there ==
Find your way to the Aerial Cable way near Hartebeesport dam.

== Fees & Permits ==
Visitors must sign the access book at the cableway ticket office and or Adventure shop located in the bottom cableway the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover, with the indemnity form for signing inside.

== Accommodation & Food ==

== Attractions & Activities ==

== Bolting / New Routes ==

A no-bolting policy is in place in the area to the West of the cableway, nesting Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles). Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting.

== PDF Guide ==

* [http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Cable_Way_Crags_Guide_Sep_2012.pdf Download the PDF topo here]

[[Category:Gauteng]]

Cable Way Crags

2012-09-17T10:41:23Z

Justin: Created page with "{{Infobox Area | Latitude = -25.719614 | Longitude = 27.884581 | Climbing Type = Sport | Rock Type = | Season = All year round ..."

{{Infobox Area

| Latitude = -25.719614
| Longitude = 27.884581
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Rock Type =
| Season = All year round
| Province = Gauteng
| Area = Hartebeesport dam

}}

= How to get there =
Find your way to the Aerial Cable way near Hartebeesport dam.

= Fees & Permits =
Visitors must sign the access book at the cableway ticket office and or Adventure shop located in the bottom cableway the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover, with the indemnity form for signing inside.

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

[[Category:Gauteng]]

Ngomakurira

2012-09-02T15:15:02Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -17.559919
| Longitude = 31.240253
| Climbing Type = Sport, Trad, Multi-pitch
| Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province =
| Area =

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

Areas: 
- Madison Wall 
- The Main Wall 
- The Ramp 
- Cartoon Valley 
- Hagars Bowl 
- Picnic Climbs 

* [http://www.climb.co.za/pdf/Ngomakurira_climbing_guide.pdf Click here for the Ngomakurira Route Description]

[[Category:Zimbabwe]]

Ngomakurira

2012-09-02T15:07:23Z

Justin: Created page with " {{Infobox Area | Latitude = -17.559919 | Longitude = 31.240253 | Climbing Type = Sport, Trad, Multi-pitch | Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone ..."

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -17.559919
| Longitude = 31.240253
| Climbing Type = Sport, Trad, Multi-pitch
| Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province =
| Area =

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

Areas:
- Madison Wall
- The Main Wall
- The Ramp
- Cartoon Valley
- Hagars Bowl
- Picnic Climbs
[[Category:Zimbabwe]]

South African Climbing Wiki

2012-09-02T14:57:28Z

Justin:

Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''.
To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This wiki is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this wiki, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources. However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== Rock Climbing in South Africa ==
South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[:Category:Oudtshoorn|Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[:Category:Montagu|Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry (except for when it floods). [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[:Category:Rocklands|Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

== Access Considerations ==
A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths.

__NOTOC__
<table width="1000"><tr>
<td valign="top" width="180">

'''Climbing Area by Province'''
* [[:Category:Western Cape|Western Cape]]
* [[:Category:Eastern Cape|Eastern Cape]]
* [[:Category:Free State|Free State]]
* [[:Category:KwaZulu Natal|KwaZulu Natal]]
* [[:Category:Limpopo Province|Limpopo Province]]
* [[:Category:Mpumalanga|Mpumalanga]]
* [[:Category:Gauteng|Gauteng]]
* [[:Category:Northwest Province|Northwest Province]]
* [[:Category:Namibia|Namibia]]
* [[:Category:Botswana|Botswana]]
* [[:Category:Lesotho|Lesotho]]
* [[:Category:Zimbabwe|Zimbabwe]]
</td>
<td valign="top" width="180">
'''Quicklinks'''
* [[:Category:Montagu|Montagu]]
* [[Harrismith]]
* [[Waterval Boven]]
* [[:Category:Rocklands|Rocklands]]
* [[:Category:Cape_Town|Cape Town]]
</td>
</tr></table>

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.784854,20.116596||[[:Category:Montagu]]
-33.371198,22.176535||[[:Category:Oudtshoorn]]
-32.14524,19.033785|[[:Category:Rocklands]]
-28.165111,29.18228|[[Harrismith]]
-25.633014,30.333323|[[Waterval_Boven]]
-29.480103,30.233831|[[Umgeni_Valley]]
-21.835528,15.195966|[[Spitzkoppe_%26_Pontoks]]
-33.94336,18.43895||[[:Category:Cape Town]]
-32.414168,19.207091||[[:Category:Tafelberg]]
-32.473745,19.275119||[[:Category:Wolfberg]]
-33.744683,18.942139||[[:Category:Paarl]]
-33.730684,19.172482||[[:Category:Hellfire]]
-33.726731,19.208043||[[:Category:Yellowood Amphitheatre]]
-34.332309,18.996581||[[:Category:Kleinmond]]
</display_points>

== General Information ==
*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

File:Climbing on R62 crag.jpg

2012-08-25T10:39:57Z

Justin:

File:Climbing on R62.jpg

2012-08-25T10:38:27Z

Justin: Climbing on R62, Montagu - Topo

Climbing on R62, Montagu - Topo

Kloof Gorge

2012-08-23T11:02:52Z

Justin:

Areas

* The Boneyard [http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/kloof/boneyard]
* Rumdoodle [http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/kloof/rumdoodle]
* Boothill
* The Cellar
* The Gutter
* The Canyon [http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/climbing/route-guides/kloof/canyon---rds]
* The Laboratory
* The Powerhouse

''' Please note: '''

* Seasonal closure of The Canyon – Kloof Gorge [http://www.climb.co.za/2011/10/kloof-gorge-seasonal-closure-of-the-canyon/]

Climbers are reminded of the closure of The Canyon in the Kloof Gorge annually, from 16 August to 31 December.

The ban on climbing has started slightly earlier this year as the first eagle was seen in the canyon on 6 August and the partner made an appearance on 20 August.

The crag is closed during this period as a pair of Wahlbergs Eagles are nesting close by. Failure to comply with this restriction could result in the permanent closure of the crag.

Your cooperation is appreciated.

Kind regards,

Waldo Bekker 
Manager Krantzkloof Nature Reserve 
T: 031 764 3515 or 082 412 1101

Silvermine Crags

2012-06-07T07:19:19Z

Justin:

[[image:Map_ct_silver.gif|right]]
Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawltey Towers for some harder stuff.
*±80 single pitch sport routes
*Grades 4 to 7b+
*10 to 25 minute walk-in
These are some of the best crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, superb rock quality and brilliant routes.

== Season ==
All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon

== Entry Times ==
07:00 - 18:00 Summer (October - March) Exit at 19:00 
08:00 - 17:00 Winter (April - September) Exit at 18:00 
Activities after hours / Late exit: R500 fine

== Contact ==
Tel +27 21 701 8692 
Emergency Tel: +27 86 110 6417 
Email: [mailto:tablemountain@sanparks.org tablemountain@sanparks.org] 
Website: [http://www.tmnp.co.za tmnp.co.za]

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are '''higher than 25m'''.

== The climbing ==
Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

== Getting There ==
From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R30.00 to get into the reserve (February 2012). A Wild card also gets you in.
Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.[http://www.capenature.org.za/wildcard.htm Wildcard]

== Areas ==
=== Lower Silvermine Crag ===
[[Image:silverminelower.gif]]

Routes from L to R
Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the path down and abseil point. The path down to the crag goes on the right (when the crag below you). You can also abseil into this crag, The abseil anchors are safely set back about 1 meter from the edge (a doubled 50 meter rope will get you to the bottom)

''Cloud Nine Wall:''
*A - Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B,C) M Gowans
*B - Vortex 6a+/20 (7B,C) T Lourens
*C - Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B,C)
*D - Nimbus 6a/19 (6B,C)
*D.25 - Lord of The Ring 16 (10B,C), Brad Davies. A fantastic introductory route, closely bolted.
*D.50 - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
*D.75 - Right of My Precious 21 Sean Maasch

''Main/ Original Sector:''

*E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)
*E.50 - Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
*E.75 - Mantra 13/14 Gavin Peckham and Brian Lambourne (30/03/08) [11B; C]
*F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)
*G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)
*H - Rough Rider 15 (6B,C)
*I - Flakes 15 (6B,C)
*J - Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B,C)
*K - Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B,C)
*L - Obideah 6a/18 (8B,C)
* Between the Lines 6a+/20
*M - Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B,C)
*N - The Gift /16 (7B,C)
*O - Hard as it Gets 17 (7B,C)
*Vlad the Impaler 6a/19
*P - Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book) (3B,C)
*Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19
''8 Mile Ledge: (Half way up Wet Dreams, traverse to the ledge on left)''
*Chris Kirkpatrick 21
*Two Trailer Park Girls 22
*Oh, There Goes Gravity 23
*Oh, There Goes Gravity-direct 25

''The Pumphouse:''
*Rest the Brakes 18
*Spitfire 23
*In Your Face 21
*London Burning 7a (grade consensus needed) J. Samson pre July 2010
*Cursed 19
*Piglet Garden 17
*Snitch 18

=== Blaze of Glory ===
Routes from L to R

*Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m
*Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m
*Drop Zone 6a/19 15m
*Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m
*Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m
*Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m
*Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m
*Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m

=== Silvermine Main Crag ===
'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Mind the Gap 21''' (12 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005 to the left of Argent
* '''Argent''' 16 Richard Behne
* '''Argentum''' 19 Richard Behne
* '''Jono Gordon's Route''' 22 Jono Gordon This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Mercury''' 26 Richard Behne This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Pistolero''' 20 Patrick McCann
* '''Josie Get Your Gun''' 21 Patrick McCann Hard if you're short
* '''Cool Hand Luke''' 18 Patrick McCann
* '''Male Country''' 24 Jayson Orton
* '''No Man's Land''' 24 John Alexander
* '''Sterling Silver''' 21 John Alexander A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Revealyomango''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Train Spotting''' 28 Guy Holwill
* '''Silver Streak''' 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
* '''Dragonfly''' 26 Mike Roberts
* '''Trance Dance''' 23 Malcolm Gowans
* '''Kirika ''' 23 Greg Hart, 2006 The grey streaks, crack and roof right of Trance Dance. The first two bolts are not in the best of rock.

'''Photos'''

[[Image:SterlingSilver.JPG|frame|center|Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke]]

[[Image:KeithOnSterling.jpg|frame|center|Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies]]

=== Silverminor Crag ===
Access to Silverminor is from the Main Crag:
*From the open terrace between 'Cool Hand Luke' and 'No Man's Land', step down and follow the vague path down and left along a ledge, to access the routes.

'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Trite quicky''' 19 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Souldery bart''' 18 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Tad ho''' 23 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Mong love''' 17 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Giden hem''' 21 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012

[[Image:Silverminor craglet topo.jpg|frame|center|Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans]]

'''Photos'''

[[Image:Beth-Higgins-toping-out-600.jpg|frame|center|Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans]]

=== Fawltey Towers ===
To get to Fawltey Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.

From left to right:
* '''Moose's Head''' 23 Guy Holwill
* '''The Psychiatrist''' 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Corked''' 19 Jayson Orton
* '''Duck Surprise''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Communication Breakdown''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Lemonade''' 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
* '''Playin' Hookie''' 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
* '''Sthpoonz''' 20 Jayson Orton
* '''Waldorf Salad''' 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
* '''Brahm's Third Racket''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Basil the Rat''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Toreador of Torquay''' 21 Patrick McCann
* '''name?''' 21/22 It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling.
* '''False Alarm''' 26 Jayson Orton
* '''Don't Mention the War''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Fire Alarm 23''' (7 bolts) Scott Miller, February 2005
* '''The Germans''' 27 Guy Holwill
* '''Bravest Orangutan in Britain''' 22 Gordon Forbes
* '''Not Yet Major''' 25 Guy Holwill
* '''Lord Melbury''' 25 Robyn Holwill
* '''Boff''' 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Poff''' 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)

[[Image:FawlteyTowers.jpg|center|frame|Climbing at Fawltey Towers]]
[[Image:LordMelburyUndercling.jpg|center|frame|Battling the undercling on ''Lord Melbury'']]

Silvermine Crags

2012-06-06T09:45:37Z

Justin:

[[image:Map_ct_silver.gif|right]]
Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawltey Towers for some harder stuff.
*±80 single pitch sport routes
*Grades 4 to 7b+
*10 to 25 minute walk-in
These are some of the best crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, superb rock quality and brilliant routes.

== Season ==
All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are '''higher than 25m'''.

== The climbing ==
Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

== Getting There ==
From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R30.00 to get into the reserve (February 2012). A Wild card also gets you in.
Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.[http://www.capenature.org.za/wildcard.htm Wildcard]

== Areas ==
=== Lower Silvermine Crag ===
[[Image:silverminelower.gif]]

Routes from L to R
Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the path down and abseil point. The path down to the crag goes on the right (when the crag below you). You can also abseil into this crag, The abseil anchors are safely set back about 1 meter from the edge (a doubled 50 meter rope will get you to the bottom)

''Cloud Nine Wall:''
*A - Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B,C) M Gowans
*B - Vortex 6a+/20 (7B,C) T Lourens
*C - Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B,C)
*D - Nimbus 6a/19 (6B,C)
*D.25 - Lord of The Ring 16 (10B,C), Brad Davies. A fantastic introductory route, closely bolted.
*D.50 - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
*D.75 - Right of My Precious 21 Sean Maasch

''Main/ Original Sector:''

*E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)
*E.50 - Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
*E.75 - Mantra 13/14 Gavin Peckham and Brian Lambourne (30/03/08) [11B; C]
*F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)
*G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)
*H - Rough Rider 15 (6B,C)
*I - Flakes 15 (6B,C)
*J - Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B,C)
*K - Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B,C)
*L - Obideah 6a/18 (8B,C)
* Between the Lines 6a+/20
*M - Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B,C)
*N - The Gift /16 (7B,C)
*O - Hard as it Gets 17 (7B,C)
*Vlad the Impaler 6a/19
*P - Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book) (Project) (3B,C)
''8 Mile Ledge:''
*Chris Kirkpatrick 21
*Two Trailer Park Girls 22
*Oh, There Goes Gravity 23
*Oh, There Goes Gravity-direct 25
*Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19
''The Pumphouse:''
*Rest the Brakes 18
*Spitfire 23
*In Your Face 21
*London Burning 7a (grade consensus needed) J. Samson pre July 2010
*Cursed 19
*Piglet Garden 17
*Snitch 18

=== Blaze of Glory ===
Routes from L to R

*Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m
*Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m
*Drop Zone 6a/19 15m
*Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m
*Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m
*Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m
*Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m
*Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m

=== Silvermine Main Crag ===
'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Mind the Gap 21''' (12 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005 to the left of Argent
* '''Argent''' 16 Richard Behne
* '''Argentum''' 19 Richard Behne
* '''Jono Gordon's Route''' 22 Jono Gordon This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Mercury''' 26 Richard Behne This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Pistolero''' 20 Patrick McCann
* '''Josie Get Your Gun''' 21 Patrick McCann Hard if you're short
* '''Cool Hand Luke''' 18 Patrick McCann
* '''Male Country''' 24 Jayson Orton
* '''No Man's Land''' 24 John Alexander
* '''Sterling Silver''' 21 John Alexander A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Revealyomango''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Train Spotting''' 28 Guy Holwill
* '''Silver Streak''' 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
* '''Dragonfly''' 26 Mike Roberts
* '''Trance Dance''' 23 Malcolm Gowans
* '''Kirika ''' 23 Greg Hart, 2006 The grey streaks, crack and roof right of Trance Dance. The first two bolts are not in the best of rock.

'''Photos'''

[[Image:SterlingSilver.JPG|frame|center|Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke]]

[[Image:KeithOnSterling.jpg|frame|center|Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies]]

=== Silverminor Crag ===
Access to Silverminor is from the Main Crag:
*From the open terrace between 'Cool Hand Luke' and 'No Man's Land', step down and follow the vague path down and left along a ledge, to access the routes.

'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Trite quicky''' 19 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Souldery bart''' 18 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Tad ho''' 23 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Mong love''' 17 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Giden gem''' 21 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012

[[Image:Silverminor craglet topo.jpg|frame|center|Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans]]

'''Photos'''

[[Image:Beth-Higgins-toping-out-600.jpg|frame|center|Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans]]

=== Fawltey Towers ===
To get to Fawltey Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.

From left to right:
* '''Moose's Head''' 23 Guy Holwill
* '''The Psychiatrist''' 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Corked''' 19 Jayson Orton
* '''Duck Surprise''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Communication Breakdown''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Lemonade''' 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
* '''Playin' Hookie''' 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
* '''Sthpoonz''' 20 Jayson Orton
* '''Waldorf Salad''' 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
* '''Brahm's Third Racket''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Basil the Rat''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Toreador of Torquay''' 21 Patrick McCann
* '''name?''' 21/22 It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling.
* '''False Alarm''' 26 Jayson Orton
* '''Don't Mention the War''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Fire Alarm 23''' (7 bolts) Scott Miller, February 2005
* '''The Germans''' 27 Guy Holwill
* '''Bravest Orangutan in Britain''' 22 Gordon Forbes
* '''Not Yet Major''' 25 Guy Holwill
* '''Lord Melbury''' 25 Robyn Holwill
* '''Boff''' 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Poff''' 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)

[[Image:FawlteyTowers.jpg|center|frame|Climbing at Fawltey Towers]]
[[Image:LordMelburyUndercling.jpg|center|frame|Battling the undercling on ''Lord Melbury'']]

Silvermine Crags

2012-06-06T08:09:06Z

Justin:

[[image:Map_ct_silver.gif|right]]
Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawltey Towers for some harder stuff.
*±80 single pitch sport routes
*Grades 4 to 7b+
*10 to 25 minute walk-in
These are some of the best crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, superb rock quality and brilliant routes.

== Season ==
All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are '''higher than 25m'''.

== The climbing ==
Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

== Getting There ==
From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R30.00 to get into the reserve (February 2012). A Wild card also gets you in.
Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.[http://www.capenature.org.za/wildcard.htm Wildcard]

== Areas ==
=== Lower Silvermine Crag ===
[[Image:silverminelower.gif]]

Routes from L to R
Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the path down and abseil point. The path down to the crag goes on the right (when the crag below you). You can also abseil into this crag, The abseil anchors are safely set back about 1 meter from the edge (a doubled 50 meter rope will get you to the bottom)

''Cloud Nine Wall:''
*A - Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B,C) M Gowans
*B - Vortex 6a+/20 (7B,C) T Lourens
*C - Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B,C)
*D - Nimbus 6a/19 (6B,C)
*D.25 - Lord of The Ring 16 (10B,C), Brad Davies. A fantastic introductory route, closely bolted.
*D.50 - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
*D.75 - Right of My Precious 21 Sean Maasch

''Main/ Original Sector:''

*E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)
*E.50 - Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
*E.75 - Mantra 13/14 Gavin Peckham and Brian Lambourne (30/03/08) [11B; C]
*F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)
*G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)
*H - Rough Rider 15 (6B,C)
*I - Flakes 15 (6B,C)
*J - Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B,C)
*K - Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B,C)
*L - Obideah 6a/18 (8B,C)
* Between the Lines 6a+/20
*M - Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B,C)
*N - The Gift /16 (7B,C)
*O - Hard as it Gets 17 (7B,C)
*Vlad the Impaler 6a/19
*P - Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book) (Project) (3B,C)
''8 Mile Ledge:''
*Chris Kirkpatrick 21
*Two Trailer Park Girls 22
*Oh, There Goes Gravity 23
*Oh, There Goes Gravity-direct 25
*Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19
''The Pumphouse:''
*Rest the Brakes 18
*Spitfire 23
*In Your Face 21
*London Burning 7a (grade consensus needed) J. Samson pre July 2010
*Cursed 19
*Piglet Garden 17
*Snitch 18

=== Blaze of Glory ===
Routes from L to R

*Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m
*Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m
*Drop Zone 6a/19 15m
*Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m
*Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m
*Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m
*Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m
*Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m

=== Silvermine Main Crag ===
'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Mind the Gap 21''' (12 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005 to the left of Argent
* '''Argent''' 16 Richard Behne
* '''Argentum''' 19 Richard Behne
* '''Jono Gordon's Route''' 22 Jono Gordon This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Mercury''' 26 Richard Behne This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Pistolero''' 20 Patrick McCann
* '''Josie Get Your Gun''' 21 Patrick McCann Hard if you're short
* '''Cool Hand Luke''' 18 Patrick McCann
* '''Male Country''' 24 Jayson Orton
* '''No Man's Land''' 24 John Alexander
* '''Sterling Silver''' 21 John Alexander A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
* '''Revealyomango''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Train Spotting''' 28 Guy Holwill
* '''Silver Streak''' 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
* '''Dragonfly''' 26 Mike Roberts
* '''Trance Dance''' 23 Malcolm Gowans
* '''Kirika ''' 23 Greg Hart, 2006 The grey streaks, crack and roof right of Trance Dance. The first two bolts are not in the best of rock.

'''Photos'''

[[Image:SterlingSilver.JPG|frame|center|Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke]]

[[Image:KeithOnSterling.jpg|frame|center|Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies]]

=== Silverminor Crag ===
Access to Silverminor is from the Main Crag:
*From the open terrace between 'Cool Hand Luke' and 'No Man's Land', step down and follow the vague path down and left along a ledge, to access the routes.

'''Routes'''
From left to right:
* '''Trite quicky''' 19 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes 2012
* '''Souldery bart''' 18 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes 2012
* '''Tad ho''' 23 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes 2012
* '''Mong love''' 17 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes 2012
* '''Giden gem''' 21 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes 2012

[[Image:Silverminor craglet topo.jpg|frame|center|Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans]]

'''Photos'''

[[Image:Beth-Higgins-toping-out-600.jpg|frame|center|Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans]]

=== Fawltey Towers ===
To get to Fawltey Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.

From left to right:
* '''Moose's Head''' 23 Guy Holwill
* '''The Psychiatrist''' 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Corked''' 19 Jayson Orton
* '''Duck Surprise''' 20 Tony Lourens
* '''Communication Breakdown''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Lemonade''' 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
* '''Playin' Hookie''' 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
* '''Sthpoonz''' 20 Jayson Orton
* '''Waldorf Salad''' 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
* '''Brahm's Third Racket''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Basil the Rat''' 23 Jayson Orton
* '''Toreador of Torquay''' 21 Patrick McCann
* '''name?''' 21/22 It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling.
* '''False Alarm''' 26 Jayson Orton
* '''Don't Mention the War''' 26 Guy Holwill
* '''Fire Alarm 23''' (7 bolts) Scott Miller, February 2005
* '''The Germans''' 27 Guy Holwill
* '''Bravest Orangutan in Britain''' 22 Gordon Forbes
* '''Not Yet Major''' 25 Guy Holwill
* '''Lord Melbury''' 25 Robyn Holwill
* '''Boff''' 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
* '''Poff''' 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)

[[Image:FawlteyTowers.jpg|center|frame|Climbing at Fawltey Towers]]
[[Image:LordMelburyUndercling.jpg|center|frame|Battling the undercling on ''Lord Melbury'']]

File:Beth-Higgins-toping-out-600.jpg

2012-06-06T07:57:05Z

Justin: Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans

Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans

File:Silverminor craglet topo.jpg

2012-06-06T07:27:57Z

Justin: Silverminor Crag topo

Silverminor Crag topo

Harrismith

2012-05-21T09:40:16Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -28.165111
| Longitude = 29.18228
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Sport & Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone/Dolerite
| Season = All year round
| Province = Free State
| Area = Harrismith

}}
== For those of you who just want the PDF ==
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Harrismith_Mount_Everest_May_2012.pdf Click here to download the Harrismith Guide]

[[http://www.climbing.co.za/shop/order_eaglemountain.php Click here to purchase a printed copy of the Harrismith RD]]

== INTRODUCTION ==
This part of South Africa has some of the most dramatic and beautiful landscapes in the country. Views from the crags are huge, sweeping vistas of mountains and the endless Highveld plains under constantly changing skies; it is a must-climb for any south African or visiting climber!

There are currently about 140 fully bolted sport routes at Mount Everest. These range in grade from 7 to 29 (up to 7c+), the majority are below grade 20 (6b) so this is the perfect place for beginner and moderate grade climbers. There are more than a dozen fully bolted multi-pitch routes with 2 to 6 pitches, and about 20 trad routes for the adventurous. Then there is the POTENTIAL; there are dozens of unclimbed walls and boulders, lurking futuristic 30 somethings and easy stuff, just waiting to be developed. All this is located in a private game reserve with over a dozen types of antelope!
The rock is sandstone, much younger and quite a bit softer than the quartzites of Boven, the Magaliesberg or the Cape. It forms weird and wonderful shapes and is highly variable, from loose-ish shaley stuff to perfect pocketed solid and smooth walls. The climbing at the Dark Side is on dolerite, an igneous rock which forms columns and cracks, a very different experience.

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This guide is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources (see acknowledgments). However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will obviously become progressively more dated as time passes and climbers are personally responsible for ascertaining the situation and conditions prevailing at the time of their planned visit.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ==
From Gavin Peckham, "''The information in this guide has been obtained from various sources. These include the Mount Everest staff and the route book prepared by Ruth Behr from information collected by Clive Curson. This is available for inspection at the Reception and has subsequently been added to by many climbers. Further information was obtained from a guide of unspecified authorship that was published well over a decade ago. Alex Steyn, Jacques Raubenheimer and Gavin Raubenheimer provided information about many of the trad lines. Other assorted scraps of information were obtained from various climbers who I met at the crags.
We all owe a debt of gratitude to the various climbers who took the time, trouble and expense to bolt these routes and thus provide an excellent selection of safe climbing for the rest of us. In this regard, particular mention must be made of Mike Cartwright who put an enormous amount of time, effort and money into opening and bolting routes, especially in the initial stages of development at the venue. The following people have also made significant route opening and bolting contributions: Clive Curson, Grant Murray, Ian Guest, Mike Behr, Ruth Behr, Glen Harrison, Arno Naude, Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Gunther Migeotte, Gerhard Kruger, Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer. Sincere apologies to anyone who I might have missed.''"

== GETTING THERE ==
Mount Everest is located in the Free State just north of Harrismith. It is about 300 km southeast of Johannesburg and about 350 km northwest of Durban.

*'''From Durban:''' Follow the N3 and by-pass Harrismith on the ring-road. About 4 km north of the town, just past the top of a hill, the N3 intersects the R722. At this intersection there is a well sign-posted turnoff to the right labelled, "Verkykerskop". Follow this tarred road for about 13 km to a crossroad where it intersects with the S1204. At this intersection there is a "Mount Everest" sign. Turn right and follow the dirt road for about 5 km. The entrance to Mount Everest is a large, thatched gateway in a clump of trees on the right.

*'''From Johannesburg:''' Follow the N3 until you reach the small (hard to see turn off) for the S1204. This is a good gravel road, passable in all cars. Turn left onto this (toward the mountain!). After 500 m turn left again, then after 1 km turn right. Drive straight for 11 kilometres and you arrive at the cross-roads with the tar road (R722). Cross this and after 5 km you will arrive at the Mount Everest gate on the right. If you really don’t want to do the gravel or you miss the turn, continue to the R722 to "Verkykerskop" and follow the directions as from Durban. It is 17 kilometres longer.

== MAP ==
[[File:Harrismith guide 03.jpg]]

== Contact Details ==
The contact numbers are on the gate and you can ring one of these to gain access at any time. If you plan to arrive after dark, then please pre-arrange this with the owner.

Contact Details: Mount Everest
Tel: 0823005999 or 0836682472
E-mail: [mailto:info@goeverest.co.za info@goeverest.co.za] or [mailto:amanda.weyers70@gmail.com amanda.weyers70@gmail.com]
Web: [[http://www.goeverest.co.za www.goeverest.co.za]]

== ACCOMODATION AND FACILITIES ==
Campsites, caravan sites and self-catering chalets are available at very fair prices. You can obtain more information using the contact details given above. The chalets vary in size and sleep between 4 and 12 people; they are all of timber and really comfortable, some tucked up in the hillsides amongst the rocks, with amazing views. Booking is advisable if you want to make use of a chalet, but is not necessary if you are only planning to camp. All buildings and chalets are "SMOKE FREE" zones !

Please note that the resort does not have a restaurant, pub or TV facilities or a shop; for all of these you will have to go to Harrismith or one of the service stations on the N3 highway. Apart from rock climbing, you can hike or ride along a variety of trails (with your own mountain bike) or fish for bass in the dams (with your own rods). The setting is magnificent and the views are stunning, especially from the tops of the mountains. The bird watching is excellent and there is a good stock of various antelope.

== CLIMBING SAFETY ==
* The rock is soft and pieces do come off, small and large! Climbers and belayers should wear helmets. If you are watching don’t sit/stand below the climber and if you are belaying stay away from the ‘fall zone’ if you can, certainly if the climber is on a potentially loose section.

* Always double check your harness and knots and your belayer! And check your partners knots when it’s his/her time to climb.

* Walking along the top and reaching down to chains is dangerous; this is when accidents happen! If you are trying to retrieve gear or place draws from the top be very careful or reconsider.

* Some of the bolts are getting old, be wary with very rusty ones, especially chains!

* Never rely upon a single bolt. If you are unable to reach the chains and need to clean the climb, sacrifice two ‘bail biners’ and thread the rope through a bail biner clipped to the previous bolts as a back-up to the one you are lowering off.

* Watch out for others...if they are in a dangerous position tell them. Tell other climbers if they are doing something that is risky, they may be inexperienced.

'''The crags are NOT yours!! This special place must be treated with respect; not doing so could easily result in the closure of the crags. Please do your bit and stick to the following rules:'''

==RULES==
1. Climbers must report to reception on arrival and again before leaving the resort. No climbing is allowed on the climbing wall unless the prescribed fees have been paid. No climbing is allowed after sundown. No climbing at all is allowed at the Bushman Complex.

2. No pets (this is a game reserve, full of animals), loud music or open fires except in designated braai areas.

3. Camping is permitted only in the designated areas.

4. '''Do not drop any litter''', however small, '''including cigarette butts, finger tape''' and tissue paper! Take all this rubbish home with you. If you find rubbish, please pick it up, you are helping us all.

5. If you must take a crap at the crag, '''go at least 30 metres down-hill''' and away from the cliff and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt, sticks, rocks afterwards. Never do your business in a cave or corner. Do not leave toilet paper lying around; it must be buried or carry it out.

6. If you take a pee, '''do not''' do it close to the cliff, make sure it’s in a place that is not sheltered from rain, otherwise it stinks.

7. Small tick dots are fine but '''tick marks over 3 cm are an eyesore''' and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. Brush them off afterwards! Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route, especially if it’s a route that is sheltered from rain.

8. '''NEVER use wire brushes!!''' They will destroy this rock. A soft toothbrush is fine.

9. Respect others; try not to be too loud and think carefully about smoking, bringing your dogs or crying children to the crags; these things can spoil the pleasure for others.

10. ‘IP’ written on the rock in chalk or a piece of tape/plastic on the first bolt means the route is ‘In Progress’ and the route is a '''closed project'''. Do not try these climbs unless you have permission from the ‘’owner’’.

11. Do not remove other peoples draws from a route even if they have been hanging there for weeks. Some locals like to leave projects clipped-up. You may of course climb the routes using the draws left up.

12. If a section of rock is marked with an X, written in chalk, don’t touch those features as the X indicates that the rock is loose. Don’t try knock it off.

== WEATHER ==
You can have perfect conditions all year-round by choosing the right time at the right crag and by having the right clothes. Mt Everest is at 2000 metres above seal level. Summer here is warm but up to 10 degrees cooler (15 to 25 degrees) than places like Boven or the Durban crags (25 to >35 degrees). During summer storms build almost daily, but the rock dries very quickly; just run for cover when the storm gets close then enjoy the show! Winters days are usually magnificent, cold but sunny days and cold nights; daytime temps as little as 10 degree in the shade and plummeting to zero or well below at night. Winter snowfalls are not unknown. Occasional cold fronts sometimes bring cold, wet weather for several days at a time, just check the weather. The weather can be unpredictable and can deteriorate rapidly, it has a real mountain feel. But this is Africa, not Europe or North America; despite the grumbles of south African climbers the weather pretty amazing really! The wind can sometimes howl for hours, even on otherwise pleasant days. Fortunately, the various climbing areas have different aspects and you can usually find somewhere to escape from the wind, the cold or the sun.
'''Please go prepared for any eventuality!'''

== THE ROCK ==
The sandstones forming the cliffs belong to the 170 million year old Clarens Formation (or Cave Sandstone), belonging to the Karoo Supergroup. These rocks were laid down in an aeolian (desert) setting which arose during a period of climate warming and desiccation (imagine!). The cliffs were massive sand-dunes in a sand sea! Sometimes you will see funny grey blobs or pockets where these blobs have been dissolved; these blobs are carbonate nodules. The rock is mostly solid, especially up on the Eagles Head. However, always be slightly wary of loose looking flakes, large and small! Give them a tap; if it sounds hollow be very careful, expect the worst!
Above the sandstone of the Mooinoek Mountain you will see a thick grey-brown cap of dolerite. This is younger than the sandstone and was ‘intruded’ as sheets of molten rock into the sandstone, feeding the massive lava flows that formed overlying basalts (now eroded but preserved in the Drakensberg, forming the big dark cliffs there). The dolerite is a very hard crystalline green rock and typically forms huge columns with cracks.

== BOULDERING ==
There is much good bouldering to be had at Mount Everest. Although bouldering at the resort is still in its infancy, over 120 problems have already been developed. The boulders are scattered throughout the resort but the main concentration is located in the vicinity of Cyclops Crag and Eagle Crag.
There is a wide variety of problems from low roofs to high slabs. Grades vary from very easy (3) to very hard (7c) with some even harder open projects. Although a bouldering pad is required for some of the problems, many can be climbed with only a spotter.
'''Climbing and bouldering in the Bushman Complex is strictly prohibited !'''

== NEW ROUTE INFO AND CORRECTIONS ==
Many of the RDs are rather vague. Some of them have been written down by the first ascentionists long after they were first opened. There are a few instances where I have received RDs for the same route from different sources and they did not even agree on the total number of pitches, let alone the details for any individual pitch! So, I'd be grateful if you can help by supplying any corrections, suggestions, useful information or constructive criticism.
More specifically, if you climb any route and find that the RDs or topos are vague, ambiguous or incorrect, then please send me your suggestions and updated information. This will be greatly appreciated and will hopefully be of benefit and future service to climbers.

== NEW ROUTE INFO AND CORRECTIONS ==
Many of the RDs are rather vague. Some of them have been written down by the first ascentionists long after they were first opened. There are a few instances where I (Gavin Peckham) have received RDs for the same route from different sources and they did not even agree on the total number of pitches, let alone the details for any individual pitch! So, I'd be grateful if you can help by supplying any corrections, suggestions, useful information or constructive criticism.
More specifically, if you climb any route and find that the RDs or topos are vague, ambiguous or incorrect, then please undate this wiki. This will be greatly appreciated and will hopefully be of benefit and future service to climbers.

== Overview Map ==
[[File:Harrismith guide 05.gif]]

== Mooihoek Mountain ==
Info about [[Mooihoek Mountain]]
<categorytree mode=pages>Mooihoek Mountain</categorytree>

== Mount Everest==
Info about [[Mount Everest]]
<categorytree mode=pages>Mount Everest</categorytree>

== Eagle Mountain ==
Info about [[Eagle Mountain]]
<categorytree mode=pages>Eagle Mountain</categorytree>

[[Category:Free State]]

Hermanus

2012-05-10T13:18:11Z

Justin:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -34.402944
| Longitude = 19.249706
| Climbing Type = Single Pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Hermanus

}}

= How to get there =
From Hermanus town centre take the road to Stanford. After the last roundabout in Hermanus, you pass the Spar on your left and then a 7/11 shop. Take a left turn into 7th Avenue and park at the end of the road.

APPROACH:
From the car park you walk up rightwards towards a water pump station. Here you veer leftwards for about 100m's to join the contour path. Take the higher split at the fork. Walk on for about l0 minutes until you see the obvious steep crag on your left, about 200m above the path.

= Fees & Permits =
None

= Accommodation & Food =
Hermanus has shops, etc

= Attractions & Activities =
Many, this is a popular tourist town! Great for whale watching, visit the information bureau.

= Map =
See Below

CRYSTAL DREAM PALACE - Fernkloof, Hermanus.
By Joe Möhle

1 John's Route 19 **
Start on the ramp below the left hand ar6te of the Main Wall. Climb the arête, exiting on the left higher up to finish on great jugs.
FA: Richard Halsey 2O12.

2 Bionic Psyche 23 ***
Start just to the left and one step down from Rising Force, about 5m inside of John's Route. Climb to an obvious horizontal rail/letterbox about 80cm long. Do a few powerful moves to gain bigger holds, and continue to the top just inside of the arête.
FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Möhle 2O12.

3 Fire The Priest 25 ****
Start on the same thin crack as Rising Force. At the jugs about 3m up, head straight on to the obvious hole in the wall. From here you step right, avoiding the line of Bionic Psyche.
FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Möhle 2O12.

4 Rising Force 27 ****
Start on the thin crack below the most obvious crack in the centre of the Main Wall. Use fingerlocks to start and step right to gain the base of the main crack and climb this feature to the top.
FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999.

5 All The Small Things 27 ***
Start about 3m inside of the right hand arête. Use slopers and crimps to gain the second crack on the wall (this one starts about 5m off the ground). Climb the crack to the top. The gear is marginal on this one, and it has yet to be repeated.
FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999

6 Be Quick Or Be Dead 31 *****
A five star power-endurance test piece! Climb the blunt arête on the right of the Main Wall. As of May 2012 the route has had only two ascents, both on pre-placed gear.
FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999.

7 Project

8 Awkward Religion 17 **
Start on the fins and ramps just right of the Main Wall and head for the roof split by an obvious crack. Pull through the roof and onto the face above (with your back to the Main Wall) and tend rightwards to the arête.
FA: Clinton Martinengo 2O12.

9 God Of All Things 16 *** 'r'
Climb the left hand ar6te of the Middle Pillar until you run out of holds. Then step right onto the face of the pillar and continue to the top.
FA: Joe Möhle 2O12.

10 Wings Of Steel 24 ***
Start just inside of the right hand ar6te of the Middle Pillar. Climb up to a break and step right onto the ar6te. Pull through the small roof and then step left onto the face. Continue to the top.
FA: Clinton Martinengo 1999.

11 Country Dream 13 **
Climb the crack and blocks to the small overhanging chimney/off width. Pull through the crack and continue to the top.
FA: Joe Möhle and Jamie Smith 2012.
 

[[File:Crystal_dream_palace_01.jpg]]

[[File:Crystal_dream_palace_02.jpg]]

[[File:P1010371.JPG]] 
Photo above by Jimbo Smith

[[Category:Western Cape]]

File:P1010371.JPG

2012-05-10T13:16:16Z

Justin: Hermanus Crag. Photo by Jimbo Smith

Hermanus Crag. Photo by Jimbo Smith

Hermanus

2012-05-07T10:25:30Z

Justin: Created page with "{{Infobox Area | Latitude = -34.402944 | Longitude = 19.249706 | Climbing Type = Single Pitch Trad | Rock Type = Sandstone | Season = A..."