South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Trad Hit List

2012-12-07T12:45:37Z

Keith:

This is a list of the best trad routes in South Africa: any grade, anything goes, can have a bolt here or there but must be primarily trad.

(I'm going to keep on editing my list (below) with suggestions that are made at http://www.climb.co.za/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2961 
Alternatively, log in to add to the list.

=== Wolfberg ===
* Energy Crisis (20)
* Celestial Journey (22)
* Alone in Space (22)
* Eclipse (13)
* Knobless Robot (18)
* Satisfaction Guaranteed (19)

=== Tafelberg ===
* Big Groove (20)
* Comes a Time (20)
* Baboon Speak (21)
* Rooibosch (18)
* Pillar Box Standard Route (17)
* Woodrow Arete (18)

=== Krakadouw ===
* King Kong 21/22
* Ichthyasaurus 21/22
* Austrolopethicus

=== Table Mountain ===
* Triple Indirect
* Jacobs Ladder 17
* Roulette 19
* African Lunch 23
* Magnetic Wall 19
* Atlantic Crag
* The Dream
* Bombay Duck 17

=== Lions Head granite ===
* Millions
* Bastille Crack (20)

=== Lion's Head Sandstone ===
* Clifton Crest (15)
* Beware The Dark Horse (18)

=== Lakeside Pinnacle ===
*Crack of Dawn (17)

=== Muizenberg Crag ===
* Crackle
* No Name Brand
* Understairs and Dilettante

=== Du Toits Kloof ===
* Exposure in the F Major
* No more bells
* Renaissance

=== Yellowwood Amphitheatre ===
* Armageddon Time

=== Hellfire ===
* Hellfire (the route) 24
* Burnout
* Aurora (19)
* Joker Smoker (17)

=== Montagu ===
* Technicolour Darkness [area closed]
* Nuclear Waste [area closed]

=== Karbonaaitjieskraal ===
* Rastarock
* Divine Dog

=== Manoutsa ===
* Hard Rock Cafe (18)

=== Blyderivier ===
* Green Bottle (19)
* Prelude to Luka (20)
* Book of Baloo (21)
* Silver Ribbon (18)
* Sundance Kid (19)
* The Iron Curtain (24)
* Cactus Dykes (20)
* Buried Treasure (20)
* Mother Nature's Necessities (19)
Check the Blydepoort Classics RD for more.

=== Blouberg ===
* Eight Miles High (24)
* Dog Day in Heaven (25/6)
* Hey Jude (21)
* Dreams of White Dogs (26)
* Dog of Thunder (30 A0)

=== Kransberg ===
* Aasvoël's End (17 R)
* Angel Recess (15)

=== Magaliesberg ===
====Mhalbs====
*Space Walk (21)
*Crystal Fire (23)
*Egowhip (23)
*Straight Edge (16)
*Final Cut (25)

====Upper Tonquani====
*Last Rites (19 X)
*Red Corner (17)
*Hawks Eye (13)
*The Moke (17)
*Hyperadrenia (20)
*Alchemy (22)
====Cedarberg====
*Boggle (19)
*Difficult Shapes and Passive Rythms (21)
*Tigatrix (18)
*Hangdog (21)
*Golden Balls (15)
*Butterfly (16)
*Twist & Shout (28)
*Cedarberg Corner Direct (13)
====Boulder====
*Dogstyle (23)
*Sabre (19)
*Raging Bull (20)
*Slipstream (18)
*Blood and Chocolate (18)
====Kranskloof====
*The Cruise (22)
*Golden Goose (17)
*The Swarm (direct finish) (19)
*Pistol (18)
*Arch of Time (24)
*Clime of the Century (20)
*Foetus (17)
====Lower Tonquani====
*Hourglass (17)
*Exstacy (17)
*Doppler Effect (21)
*Circuit Breaker (22)
*Just Hot (23)
*More Monkey Than Funkey (21)
*Red Column (15)
*Sands of Time (19 R)
*Gnasher (19)
*Question of Balance (21)
====Fernkloof====
*Fernkloof Pinnacle (17)
*Dextrose
*Lazarus
====Hamerkop====
*Quintessence (22)
*One Crack Mind (19)
*Amazing Grace Direct (18 X)
*The Beer Hunter (20 X)
====Eureka Dome====
*Aftermath
====Dome====
*Fallen Angel
*Devil's Advocate
*Magic Dragon
*Muffin Direct
*Time Limit
====Grootkloof====
*Isolation Pinnacle (11)
*Dive Bomber (direct)
====Castle Gorge====
*Donner en Bliksem (20)
====Trident====
*Apex
*Swiss Army Knife (17 R)

=== Wilgepoort ===
* The Key (Direct first pitch) (21)
* Cabernet/Muscadel Crack combination (18)
* McFats LGP

===The Hell===
*To Hell with skin

===Magageni===
*Snakeskin Arete (20)

=== Mary (E Cape) ===
* The Legend (26)

=== Paarl Rocks ===
* Stem Gem - 22

=== The Berg ===
* The North Face Route on Sentinel Peak (also called the Angus-Leppan Route)
* Devil's Tooth.
* Mponjwana, Standard Route.
* The Bell, Hoper's Route.
* The Pyramid, Standard Route.
* The Column, Escarpment Arête.
* The Monk's Cowl, Standard and Barry's Route.
* The Injasuti Western Triplet, North West Ridge Route.
* Giant's Castle, Schole's Route.
* Giant's Castle, Makaza and the Main Loteni Couloir (ice routes).
* Not so auto (on Monks cowl)

=== Boven ===
* Heart of China (23)
* Al's Bells (19)

=== Monteseel ===
* Powderfinger
* Fiddler in the roof
* Granny's souped up wheelchair

=== Pinnacle Gorge ===
* Lycra Trea
* Por_noster
* Slow ecstasy
* Snip Snip
* Fingercrack
* Think Pink

=== Nagas Gorge ===
* Old man's ecstasy
* Moonjig

=== Lady Slipper ===
* MacKegnie's madness
* Twinkletoes
* Flashdance

=== Hogsback ===
* Fame and fashion

=== Both gorges in EC ===

Trad Hit List

2012-12-07T12:42:51Z

Keith:

=== A list of best Trad routes in ZA - Any grade, anything goes, can have a bolt here or there but must be primarily Trad ===

(I'm going to keep on editing my list (below) with suggestions that are made at http://www.climb.co.za/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2961 
Alternatively, login to add to the list.

=== Wolfberg ===
* Energy Crisis (20)
* Celestial Journey (22)
* Alone in Space (22)
* Eclipse (13)
* Knobless Robot (18)
* Satisfaction Guaranteed (19)

=== Tafelberg ===
* Big Groove (20)
* Comes a Time (20)
* Baboon Speak (21)
* Rooibosch (18)
* Pillar Box Standard Route (17)
* Woodrow Arete (18)

=== Krakadouw ===
* King Kong 21/22
* Ichthyasaurus 21/22
* Austrolopethicus

=== Table Mountain ===
* Triple Indirect
* Jacobs Ladder 17
* Roulette 19
* African Lunch 23
* Magnetic Wall 19
* Atlantic Crag
* The Dream
* Bombay Duck 17

=== Lions Head granite ===
* Millions (1Cool
* Bastille Crack (20)

=== Lion's Head Sandstone ===
* Clifton Crest (15)
* Beware The Dark Horse (18)

=== Lakeside Pinnacle ===
*Crack of Dawn (17)

=== Muizenberg Crag ===
* Crackle
* No Name Brand
* Understairs and Dilettante

=== Du Toits Kloof ===
* Exposure in the F Major
* No more bells
* Renaissance

=== Yellowwood Amphitheatre ===
* Armageddon Time

=== Hellfire ===
* Hellfire (the route) 24
* Burnout
* Aurora (19)
* Joker Smoker (17)

=== Montagu ===
* Technicolour Darkness [area closed]
* Nuclear Waste [area closed]

=== Karbonaaitjieskraal ===
* Rastarock
* Divine Dog

=== Manoutsa ===
* Hard Rock Cafe (18)

=== Blyderivier ===
* Green Bottle (19)
* Prelude to Luka (20)
* Book of Baloo (21)
* Silver Ribbon (18)
* Sundance Kid (19)
* The Iron Curtain (24)
* Cactus Dykes (20)
* Buried Treasure (20)
* Mother Nature's Necessities (19)
(Check the Blydepoort Classics RD for more)

=== Blouberg ===
* Eight Miles High (24)
* Dog Day in Heaven (25/6)
* Hey Jude (21)
* Dreams of White Dogs (26)
* Dog of Thunder (30 A0)

=== Kransberg ===
* Aasvoël's End (17 R)
* Angel Recess (15)

=== Magaliesberg ===
====Mhalbs====
*Space Walk (21)
*Crystal Fire (23)
*Egowhip (23)
*Straight Edge (16)
*Final Cut (25)

====Upper Tonquani====
*Last Rites (19 X)
*Red Corner (17)
*Hawks Eye (13)
*The Moke (17)
*Hyperadrenia (20)
*Alchemy (22)
====Cedarberg====
*Boggle (19)
*Difficult Shapes and Passive Rythms (21)
*Tigatrix (18)
*Hangdog (21)
*Golden Balls (15)
*Butterfly (16)
*Twist & Shout (28)
*Cedarberg Corner Direct (13)
====Boulder====
*Dogstyle (23)
*Sabre (19)
*Raging Bull (20)
*Slipstream (18)
*Blood and Chocolate (18)
====Kranskloof====
*The Cruise (22)
*Golden Goose (17)
*The Swarm (direct finish) (19)
*Pistol (18)
*Arch of Time (24)
*Clime of the Century (20)
*Foetus (17)
====Lower Tonquani====
*Hourglass (17)
*Exstacy (17)
*Doppler Effect (21)
*Circuit Breaker (22)
*Just Hot (23)
*More Monkey Than Funkey (21)
*Red Column (15)
*Sands of Time (19 R)
*Gnasher (19)
*Question of Balance (21)
====Fernkloof====
*Fernkloof Pinnacle (17)
*Dextrose
*Lazarus
====Hamerkop====
*Quintessence (22)
*One Crack Mind (19)
*Amazing Grace Direct (18 X)
*The Beer Hunter (20 X)
====Eureka Dome====
*Aftermath
====Dome====
*Fallen Angel
*Devil's Advocate
*Magic Dragon
*Muffin Direct
*Time Limit
====Grootkloof====
*Isolation Pinnacle (11)
*Dive Bomber (direct)
* Castle Gorge====
*Donner en Bliksem (20)
====Trident====
*Apex
*Swiss Army Knife (17 R)

=== Wilgepoort ===
* The Key (Direct first pitch) (21)
* Cabernet/Muscadel Crack combination (18)
* McFats LGP

===The Hell===
*To Hell with skin

===Magageni===
*Snakeskin Arete (20)

=== Mary (E Cape) ===
* The Legend (26)

=== Paarl Rocks ===
* Stem Gem - 22

=== The Berg ===
* The North Face Route on Sentinel Peak (also called the Angus-Leppan Route)
* Devil's Tooth.
* Mponjwana, Standard Route.
* The Bell, Hoper's Route.
* The Pyramid, Standard Route.
* The Column, Escarpment Arête.
* The Monk's Cowl, Standard and Barry's Route.
* The Injasuti Western Triplet, North West Ridge Route.
* Giant's Castle, Schole's Route.
* Giant's Castle, Makaza and the Main Loteni Couloir (ice routes).
* Not so auto (on Monks cowl)

=== Boven ===
* Heart of China (23)
* Al's Bells (19)

=== Monteseel ===
* Powderfinger
* Fiddler in the roof
* Granny's souped up wheelchair

=== Pinnacle Gorge ===
* Lycra Trea
* Por_noster
* Slow ecstasy
* Snip Snip
* Fingercrack
* Think Pink

=== Nagas Gorge ===
* Old man's ecstasy
* Moonjig

=== Lady Slipper ===
* MacKegnie's madness
* Twinkletoes
* Flashdance

=== Hogsback ===
* Fame and fashion

=== Both gorges in EC ===

The Mine

2012-09-11T13:34:46Z

Keith:

{{Infobox Crag
| Latitude = -34.092628
| Longitude = 18.4408
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Gradient = Overhanging
| Walkin = 20 minutes uphill
| Aspect = Afternoon shade
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Cape Town
}}

The Mine is one of the most popular sport crags in the Cape Peninsula. The rock is a hard sandstone with most routes involving at least one or two overhangs. The view from the crag is wonderful and there is plenty of space to roam around at the bottom of the crag. The crag generally dries out quickly after rain (in one or two days). If it is not too hot, all day climbing is not a problem here. Be sure to make a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are more than 25m long.

= How to get there =
Drive up Ou Kaapse Weg from the Cape Town side and take the first turnoff to the left (after a few hundered metres). Park at the next turnoff to the right and walk up to the badly eroded dirt road (15 minutes) and then take the path to the left which leads to the crag.

'''Be careful when parking''' as there have been break-ins. If you have a 4x4-type vehicle it might be better to drive farther up that dirt road. Alternatively park near the entrance of the naval base and endure the longer walk (about 500m). [http://climbing.co.za/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=643 See Climb ZA Thread]

= Topo =
[[Image:The_mine_far.JPG|center|Photo of The Mine crag, taken from the approach dirt road.]]

= Route List =

Routes are listed from left to right.

===Far Left Sector===

There are a couple of routes several hundred metres to the left of the main crag:

* '''Curt''' 28 Jimbo Smith 2012 Branch left at third bolt on ''Frank''. Climb past two more bolts to a ledge. Down-climb to clean. (Bolted by Jimbo Smith and Jeremy Samson.)
* '''Frank''' 31 David Pothier 1994 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''The Highwayman''' 22 Kirsti Donald 1994

===Left Sector===

* '''Whispering Winds''' 21 Jason Temple Forbes 1997 Alternative start to ''Trade Winds''.
* '''Trade Winds''' 20 John Alexander 1992 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''30 Something''' 25 John Alexander 1992
* '''King Freddie''' 24 Guy Holwill 1992
* '''Locomotion''' 24 Guy Holwill 1992
* '''Shut Up and Climb Geek''' 26 Jeremy Colenso 1992 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Fantasia''' 24 Guy Holwill 1991 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Diabolo''' 26 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to 'Lambada', starting on the lower level
* '''Lambada''' 24 Guy Holwill 1991 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Touché Pussycat''' 23 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to ''Quillerimo'', starting on the lower level
* '''Quillerimo''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Bolero''' 27 Guy Holwill 1991 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Puffadder''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Grand Illusion''' 19 Arno Purves 1991 [ARF glue-ins]

===Middle Sector===

* '''Pink Harmonica''' 19 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003 Climb the first half of ''A Song Named Desire'' to the chains at the base of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall.
* '''A Song Named Desire''' 24 Keith Forbes 2004 An extension to ''Pink Harmonica'' that goes to the top of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall. Stay off the slab to the left.
* '''Red Guitar on Fire''' 25 Guy Holwill 1991 [ARF glue-ins] A classic!
* '''The Scenic Route''' 28 Jeremy Colenso 1993 An add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head left after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''The Happy Hooker''' 27 Paul Schlodtfeldt 1992 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''69ing Your Saucy Secretary''' 28 Andrew Davies 1992 Another add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head right after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''Jimmy and the Big Boys''' 24 Graham and Tim Shillington 1994 [ARF glue-ins] Name from a ''Married with Children'' line.
* '''Sickle Moon''' 22 Malcom Gowans 1994 [ARF glue-ins]
* '''Chocolate Mousse''' 30 Sean Maasch 1995
* '''All Mine''' 22 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Airbag''' 21 Scott Miller Dec 2004
* '''Kool Sans the Gang''' 23 Guy Holwill 1997 ''Kool and the Gang'' was an artificial route with two plastic holds bolted into the roof. Public outcry led to the holds being removed. Brown spraypaint can still be seen in the roof where the plastic holds were. ''Kool Sans the Gang'' ends at the base of this roof.
* '''Yebo!''' 18 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Paff Udder''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 2004 Extension to ''Yebo''. Goes right of ''Kool Sans the Gang'' but uses the same anchors.
* '''Saddam's Bad Hair Day''' 21 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Revenge of the Paas Haasie''' 20 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Bin Ha''' 23 Scott Miller Dec 2004

===Right Sector===

* '''Too Pumped to Come''' 26 Sean Maasch 1994
* '''All that Glitters is Gold''' 27 Guy Holwill 1991 [ARF glue-ins] Start up ''Swan Lake'' then keep going straight up to the top of the wall.
* '''Swan Lake''' 25 Jeremy Colenso 1991 [ARF glue-ins] Finishes at the ''Gift of Wings'' chains.
* '''A Gift of Wings''' 28 Guy Holwill 1991 [ARF glue-ins] A classic!
* '''Mono''' 28 Adrian Kohler 1993 Start up ''Gift of Wings'' then go rightwards through the big cavity in the roof.
* '''Green Peas''' 30 Jeremy Colenso 1994 Crux is a manufactured mono.
* '''Felching is Fun''' 24 Guy Holwill 1993
* '''Cunning Linguistics''' 24 Guy Holwill 1993
* '''Pigeon''' 28 Jeremy Samson 1997

===Lower Tier===

Routes on the short, steep lower tier starting beneath Swan Lake:
* '''Daring Winter''' 24 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bang Bang Paris''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Symphony in Three Movements''' 24 Guy Holwill 1991
* '''Diesel Dieter Does It''' 24 Dieter Wiemar 1998
* '''The Flying Dutchman''' 30 Sean Maasch 1998
* '''Separate Reality''' 23 Arno Purves 1991
* '''Bohemian Summer''' 27 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bubble''' 31 Sean Maasch 1997
* '''Stubble''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1992
* '''Bearded Clam''' 19 Grant Sakinofsky 1994 ''Bolts are looking rusty''
* '''Iron Helps Us Play''' 23 Gordon Forbes 1994 ''Bolts are looking rusty''

There are a couple of longer routes further to the right:
* '''Route 44''' 22 David Davies 2004
* '''Uriah''' 19 Simon Larsen 1994

[[Category:Cape Town]]

The Mine

2012-09-09T16:06:39Z

Keith:

{{Infobox Crag
| Latitude = -34.092628
| Longitude = 18.4408
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Gradient = Overhanging
| Walkin = 20 minutes uphill
| Aspect = Afternoon shade
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Cape Town
}}

The Mine is one of the most popular sport crags in the Cape Peninsula. The rock is a hard sandstone with most routes involving at least one or two overhangs. Holds are generally small and you will need some good finger strength here. The view from the crag is wonderful and there is plenty of space to roam around at the bottom of the crag. The crag generally dries out quickly after rain (in one or two days). If it is not too hot, all day climbing is not a problem here. Be sure to make a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are more than 25m long.

= How to get there =
To get to the Mine, drive up Ou Kaapse Weg from the Cape Town side and take the first turnoff to the left (after a few hundered metres). Park at the next turnoff to the right and walk up to the badly eroded dirt rode (15 minutes) and then take the path to the left which leads to the crag.

'''Be careful when parking there''' though, recently cars parked there have been broken in to. If you have a 4x4-type vehicle it might be better to drive farther up that dirt road. Alternatively it has been suggested that you park at the entrance of the naval base and endure the longer walk (about 500m). [http://climbing.co.za/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=643 See Climb ZA Thread]

= Topo =
[[Image:The_mine_far.JPG|center|Photo of The Mine crag, taken from the approach dirt road.]]

= Route List =

Routes are listed from left to right.

===Far Left Sector===

There are a couple of routes several hundred metres to the left of the main crag:
* '''Frank''' 31 David Pothier 1994
* '''Curt''' 28 BB Jimbo Smith and Jeremy Samson FA Jimbo Smith 2012 (branch left at third bolt on Frank, climb past 2 more bolts to a ledge, down climb to clean)
* '''The Highwayman''' 22 Kirsti Donald 1994

===Left Sector===

* '''Whispering Winds''' 21 J T Forbes 1997
* '''Trade Winds''' 20 John Alexander 1992
* '''30 Something''' 25 John Alexander 1992
* '''King Freddie''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1992
* '''Locomotion''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1992
* '''Shut Up and Climb''' 26 Jeremy Colenso 1992
* '''Fantasia''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Diabolo''' 26 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to Lambada, starting on the lower level
* '''Lambada''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Touché Pussycat''' 23 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to Quillerimo, starting on the lower level
* '''Quillerimo''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991
* '''Bolero''' 27 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Puffadder''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991
* '''Grand Illusion''' 19 Arno Purves 1991

===Middle Sector===

* '''Pink Harmonica''' 19 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003 Climb the first half of ''A Song Named Desire'' to the chains at the base of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall.
* '''A Song Named Desire''' 24 Keith Forbes 2004 An extension to ''Pink Harmonica'' that goes to the top of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall. Stay off the slab to the left.
* '''Red Guitar on Fire''' 25 Guy Hollwill 1991 A classic! This route has been rebolted by the Anchor Replacement Fund.
* '''The Scenic Route''' 28 Jeremy Colenso 1993 An add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head left after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''The Happy Hooker''' 27 Paul Schlodtfeldt 1992
* '''69ing Your Saucy Secretary''' 28 Andrew Davies 1992 Another add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head right after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''Jimmy and the Big Boys''' 24 Graham and Tim Shillington 1994 Name inspired by the TV show Married with Children
* '''Sickle Moon''' 22 Malcom Gowans 1994 This route has been rebolted by the Anchor Replacement Fund.
* '''Chocolate Mousse''' 30 Sean Maasch 1995
* '''All Mine''' 22 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Unknown#1''' 22 Unknown
* '''Kool Sans the Gang''' 23 Guy Hollwill 1997 ''Kool and the Gang'' was an artificial route with two plastic holds bolted into the roof. Public outcry led to the holds being removed. Brown spraypaint can still be seen in the roof where the plastic holds were. ''Kool Sans the Gang'' ends at the base of this roof.
* '''YEBO!''' 18 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Paff Udder''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 2004 Extension to ''Yebo''. Goes right of ''Kool Sans the Gang'' but uses the same anchors.
* '''Saddam's Bad Hair Day''' 21 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Revenge of the Paas Haasie''' 20 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003

===Right Sector===

* '''Too Pumped to Come''' 26 Sean Maasch 1994
* '''All that Glitters is Gold''' 27 Guy Hollwill 1991 Start up ''Swan Lake'' then keep going straight up to the top of the wall. Less popular than ''Swan Lake'', which heads right near the top.
* '''Swan Lake''' 25 Jeremy Colenso 1991 Finishes at the ''Gift of Wings'' chains.
* '''A Gift of Wings''' 28 Guy Hollwill 1991 A classic!
* '''Mono''' 28 Adrian Kohler 1993 Start up ''Gift of Wings'' then go rightwards through the big cavity in the roof.
* '''Green Peas''' 30 Jeremy Colenso 1994 Crux is a manufactured mono.
* '''Felching is Fun''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1993
* '''Cunning Linguistics''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1993
* '''Pigeon''' 28 Jeremy Samson 1997

===Lower Tier===

Routes on the short, steep lower tier starting beneath Swan Lake:
* '''Daring Winter''' 24 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bang Bang Paris''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Symphony in 3 Movements''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Diesel Dieter Does It''' 24 Dieter Wiemar 1998
* '''The Flying Dutchman''' 30 Sean Maasch 1998
* '''Separate Reality''' 23 Arno Purves 1991
* '''Bohemian Summer''' 27 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bubble''' 31 Sean Maasch 1997
* '''Stubble''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1992
* '''Bearded Clam''' 19 Grant Sakinofsky 1994 -**Bolts are looking rusty**
* '''Iron Helps Us Play''' 23 Gordon Forbes 1994 -**Bolts are looking rusty**

There are a couple of longer routes further to the right:
* '''Route 44''' 22 David Davies 2004
* '''Uriah''' 19 Simon Larsen 1994

== Photos ==

[[Image:ClimbingAtTheMine.jpg|center|frame|Jimmy and the Big Boys (23)]]

[[Image:WoodRgf.jpg|center|frame|Mike Wood climbing Red Guitar (25)]]

[[Image:FreeSolo.jpg|center|frame|Red Guitar (25)]]

[[Image:Jeep.jpg|center|frame|You'll need a Jeep to drive up to the top]]

[[Category:Cape Town]]

The Mine

2012-03-30T05:48:50Z

Keith: it's 2012 now

{{Infobox Crag
| Latitude = -34.092628
| Longitude = 18.4408
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Gradient = Overhanging
| Walkin = 20 minutes uphill
| Aspect = Afternoon shade
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Cape Town
}}

The Mine is one of the most popular sport crags in the Cape Peninsula. The rock is a hard sandstone with most routes involving at least one or two overhangs. Holds are generally small and you will need some good finger strength here. The view from the crag is wonderful and there is plenty of space to roam around at the bottom of the crag. The crag generally dries out quickly after rain (in one or two days). If it is not too hot, all day climbing is not a problem here. Be sure to make a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are more than 25m long.

= How to get there =
To get to the Mine, drive up Ou Kaapse Weg from the Cape Town side and take the first turnoff to the left (after a few hundered metres). Park at the next turnoff to the right and walk up to the badly eroded dirt rode (15 minutes) and then take the path to the left which leads to the crag.

'''Be careful when parking there''' though, recently cars parked there have been broken in to. If you have a 4x4-type vehicle it might be better to drive farther up that dirt road. Alternatively it has been suggested that you park at the entrance of the naval base and endure the longer walk (about 500m). [http://climbing.co.za/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=643 See Climb ZA Thread]

= Topo =
[[Image:The_mine_far.JPG|center|Photo of The Mine crag, taken from the approach dirt road.]]

= Route List =

Routes are listed from left to right.

===Far Left Sector===

There are a couple of routes several hundred metres to the left of the main crag:
* '''Frank''' 31 David Pothier 1994
* '''Curt''' 28 BB Jimbo Smith and Jeremy Samson FA Jimbo Smith 2012 (branch right at third bolt on Frank, climb past 2 more bolts to a ledge, down climb to clean)
* '''The Highwayman''' 22 Kirsti Donald 1994

===Left Sector===

* '''Whispering Winds''' 21 J T Forbes 1997
* '''Trade Winds''' 20 John Alexander 1992
* '''30 Something''' 25 John Alexander 1992
* '''King Freddie''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1992
* '''Locomotion''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1992
* '''Shut Up and Climb''' 26 Jeremy Colenso 1992
* '''Fantasia''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Diabolo''' 26 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to Lambada, starting on the lower level
* '''Lambada''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Touché Pussycat''' 23 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to Quillerimo, starting on the lower level
* '''Quillerimo''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991
* '''Bolero''' 27 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Puffadder''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991
* '''Grand Illusion''' 19 Arno Purves 1991

===Middle Sector===

* '''Pink Harmonica''' 19 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003 Climb the first half of ''A Song Named Desire'' to the chains at the base of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall.
* '''A Song Named Desire''' 24 Keith Forbes 2004 An extension to ''Pink Harmonica'' that goes to the top of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall. Stay off the slab to the left.
* '''Red Guitar on Fire''' 25 Guy Hollwill 1991 A classic! This route has been rebolted by the Anchor Replacement Fund.
* '''The Scenic Route''' 28 Jeremy Colenso 1993 An add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head left after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''The Happy Hooker''' 27 Paul Schlodtfeldt 1992
* '''69ing Your Saucy Secretary''' 28 Andrew Davies 1992 Another add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head right after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''Jimmy and the Big Boys''' 24 Graham and Tim Shillington 1994 Name inspired by the TV show Married with Children
* '''Sickle Moon''' 22 Malcom Gowans 1994 This route has been rebolted by the Anchor Replacement Fund.
* '''Chocolate Mousse''' 30 Sean Maasch 1995
* '''All Mine''' 22 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Unknown#1''' 22 Unknown
* '''Kool Sans the Gang''' 23 Guy Hollwill 1997 ''Kool and the Gang'' was an artificial route with two plastic holds bolted into the roof. Public outcry led to the holds being removed. Brown spraypaint can still be seen in the roof where the plastic holds were. ''Kool Sans the Gang'' ends at the base of this roof.
* '''YEBO!''' 18 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Paff Udder''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 2004 Extension to ''Yebo''. Goes right of ''Kool Sans the Gang'' but uses the same anchors.
* '''Saddam's Bad Hair Day''' 21 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Revenge of the Paas Haasie''' 20 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003

===Right Sector===

* '''Too Pumped to Come''' 26 Sean Maasch 1994
* '''All that Glitters is Gold''' 27 Guy Hollwill 1991 Start up ''Swan Lake'' then keep going straight up to the top of the wall. Less popular than ''Swan Lake'', which heads right near the top.
* '''Swan Lake''' 25 Jeremy Colenso 1991 Finishes at the ''Gift of Wings'' chains.
* '''A Gift of Wings''' 28 Guy Hollwill 1991 A classic!
* '''Mono''' 28 Adrian Kohler 1993 Start up ''Gift of Wings'' then go rightwards through the big cavity in the roof.
* '''Green Peas''' 30 Jeremy Colenso 1994 Crux is a manufactured mono.
* '''Felching is Fun''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1993
* '''Cunning Linguistics''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1993
* '''Pigeon''' 28 Jeremy Samson 1997

===Lower Tier===

Routes on the short, steep lower tier starting beneath Swan Lake:
* '''Daring Winter''' 24 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bang Bang Paris''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Symphony in 3 Movements''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Diesel Dieter Does It''' 24 Dieter Wiemar 1998
* '''The Flying Dutchman''' 30 Sean Maasch 1998
* '''Separate Reality''' 23 Arno Purves 1991
* '''Bohemian Summer''' 27 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bubble''' 31 Sean Maasch 1997
* '''Stubble''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1992
* '''Bearded Clam''' 19 Grant Sakinofsky 1994 -**Bolts are looking rusty**
* '''Iron Helps Us Play''' 23 Gordon Forbes 1994 -**Bolts are looking rusty**

There are a couple of longer routes further to the right:
* '''Route 44''' 22 David Davies 2004
* '''Uriah''' 19 Simon Larsen 1994

== Photos ==

[[Image:ClimbingAtTheMine.jpg|center|frame|Jimmy and the Big Boys (23)]]

[[Image:WoodRgf.jpg|center|frame|Mike Wood climbing Red Guitar (25)]]

[[Image:FreeSolo.jpg|center|frame|Red Guitar (25)]]

[[Image:Jeep.jpg|center|frame|You'll need a Jeep to drive up to the top]]

[[Category:Cape Town]]

The Underside

2010-06-19T17:10:57Z

Keith:

The Underside is a new (2006) sport crag being developed by Guy Holwill and others. It is above the Mine and below Topside (hence the name). The crag consists of a series of roofs that can be seen from Ou Kaapse Weg.

==Download PDF Topo==
[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/ClimbZA_Underside_Jan08.pdf Download the Underside Topo]

== Approach ==
Park at the top of Ou Kaapse Weg, on the Muizenberg side. Parking costs R5 per car (October 2006). Walk past the old boulder (i.e., the [[Silvermine Boulder]]) to the end of the road, follow the big path up the hill, turn left on top and walk for about 5 mins until you see a clump of boulders about 20m off the path on the right (you might see chalk). These are the Turtle boulders. If you get to the fork in the path (near the big overhang) you have gone several hundered metres too far.

From the Turtle boulders turn left (down). Follow the "path" to a big ledge (approx 100m), then go right along the big ledge for approx 150m before going down a small gully. Keep following the path down and right. For the Faithless Wall - keep going along the big ledge. It all becomes very obvious on your second visit.

== Routes ==
===Killers Wall===
* '''Hot Fuss''' 21 5B Andrew Koch January 2006
* '''Smile Like You Mean It''' 22 5B Guy Holwill January 2006
* '''Mr Brightside''' 22 5B Guy Holwill January 2006

===Middle Buttress===
* '''Life's Too Short''' 24 3B Guy Holwill April 2006
* '''When You Were Young''' 21 7B Guy Holwill November 2006

===Beginners' Wall===
* '''Absolute Beginners''' 15 3B Andrew Koch January 2006
* '''Beginners Luck''' 14 3B Patrick McCann January 2006
* '''The Love Generation''' 19 3B Guy Holwill January 2006
* '''Woza Moya''' 19 5B Doug Ward February 2006

===Underside Wall===
* '''Hey Jupiter''' 34 7B (grade to be confirmed) Steven Bradshaw June 2009
This route is totally awesome. The buttress is made of bullet hard smooth grey sandstone, and it overhangs at 45 degrees. It takes the only line of holds up the buttress.
* '''How Peculiar''' 20 5B Guy Holwill January 2006
* '''Bullet in a Bible''' 23 4B Guy Holwill January 2008
* '''American Idiot''' 27 5B Guy Holwill March 2006
* Project 6B Andrew Koch
* Project 9B Mark Johnston Route thru the long, black roof crack
* Project Patrick McCann
* '''Tyrant''' 24 7B Doug Ward March 2006 Sustained. Not a giveaway at 24.

===Rightside Wall===
* Project Steve Downing
* '''Abigail''' 18 5B M vd Westhuizen February 2006

===Faithless Wall===
* '''Muhammed Ali''' 21 3B Guy Holwill May 2006 Just above and slightly left of the Faithless Wall
* Project '''Tarantula''' 5B Guy Holwill through the roof
* IR '''Irreverence''' 25 5B Guy Holwill June 2006
* SM '''Salva Mea''' 22 4B Guy Holwill April 2006
* DA '''Drifting Away''' 19 4B Guy Holwill April 2006
* IWM1 ''' Want More (Part 1)''' 21 4B Doug Ward June 2006
* IWM2 '''I Want More (Part 2)''' aka '''Mass Destruction''' 25 5B Guy Holwill September 2006 Follows the route up the steep prow on the right of the crag, then goes thru the roof at the top

Sport Hit List

2009-06-02T08:53:54Z

Keith: New page: South Africa's best sport routes, listed by difficulty: ''[please add to the list]'' *'''Barricade''' 33 at The Wave Cave *'''Godzilla''' 31 at God No! Wall, Waterval Boven *'''L'...

South Africa's best sport routes, listed by difficulty:
''[please add to the list]''

*'''Barricade''' 33 at [[The Wave Cave]]
*'''Godzilla''' 31 at God No! Wall, [[Waterval Boven]]
*'''L'Abraxsas''' 30 at Oorlogs Kloof, [[Montagu]]
*'''El Nino''' 30 at [[Oudtshoorn]]
*'''Paragon''' 30 at [[The Wave Cave]]
*'''The Activist''' 30 at the Palace, [[Bad Kloof]], [[Montagu]]
*'''Snapdragon''' 29 at the Superbowl, [[Waterval Boven]]
*'''Shouting Stage''' 29 at the Steeple, [[Montagu]]
*'''Cool Like That''' 28 at the Scoop, [[Montagu]]
*'''A Gift of Wings''' 28 at [[The Mine]]
*'''Lotter's Desire''' 27 at the Superbowl, [[Waterval Boven]]
*'''Daze of Thunder''' 27 at the Worlds Apart, [[Bad Kloof]], [[Montagu]]
*'''The Gift''' 27 at the Restaurant, [[Waterval Boven]]
*'''Gecko Blaster''' 26 at [[Peers Cave]]
*'''Red Guitar on Fire''' 25 at [[The Mine]]
*'''Poisson Flambe''' 25 at [[The Hole]]
*'''Wildcard''' 24 at Oorlogs Kloof, [[Montagu]]
*'''Cape Fear''' 24 at [[The Hole]]
*'''Cedar Rouge''' 23 at the [[Rocklands]]
*'''Orange Plasma''' 22 at the [[Rocklands]]
*'''Sterling Silver''' 21 at [[Silvermine Crags | Silvermine]]
*'''Little Dutch Boy''' 19 at [[Paarl Rocks]]
*'''Sands of Time''' 17 at [[Paarl Rocks]]

Waterval Boven

2009-05-22T17:40:48Z

Keith:

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== Getting There ==

<googlemap lat="-25.642" lon="30.3288" zoom="11">
-25.642, 30.3288, Waterval-Boven, South Africa
</googlemap>

If you are coming from outside Gauteng or Mpumalunga, the best city to fly to is either Nelspruit or Johannesburg. Nelspruit is closer to Waterval Boven, but flying to Johannesburg may be cheaper.

* From Nelspruit: follow the sign for Machadodorp, Witbank or even Johannesburg. Once on the N4 keep going straight for about 95km and take turn off on your left for Waterval Boven.

* From Johannesburg: drive east on the N12 (take direction Boksburg out of the airport), then follow the N4 to Waterval Boven.

For bookings and info, visit the [http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope] office next to the third stop sign after entering the town of Waterval Boven.

[[Image:volker.jpg|288px|frame|center|Volker Schweinbenz on AS THE WORLD DISAPPEARS (26) on the Last Crag of the Century]]

== Accommodation and Food==

A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags ([http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets]) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals. 
[http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope]: Tel: 013 257 0363, climb@rocrope.com

The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4547]. Rather stay at the [http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets] on top of the Wonderland crags.

Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.

== Safety ==
'''Malaria''' 
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.

'''Snakes and spiders''' 
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.

'''Crime''' 
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.

There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).

'''Emergency Phone Numbers''' 
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203.
This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.

Local Rescue Services:
*072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)
*082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg
*013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police
*013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital

Also useful:
*10111 - SA Police
*10117 - Ambulance
*082 911 - Emergency

== Rest Day Activities ==

''' Krugerhof ''' 
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).

''' Sudwala Caves ''' 
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.

''' The Kruger National Park ''' 
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.

''' Hiking ''' 
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.

''' Bouldering ''' 
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.

''' Paragliding ''' 
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.

''' Mountain Biking ''' 
The hills around town offer exciting mountain biking opportunities with existing trails.

''' Horse Riding ''' 
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.

''' Fly Fishing ''' 
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.

== Route Updates ==

These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy.

[[Image: Guide book.jpg|288px|frame|center|Get your copy before it goes out of print.]]

===Waterfall Area===
==== The Last Crag of the Century ====

15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A]
Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.
FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D]
Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
FA: Jens Richter 2005

21) CAFFEINE JITTERS 15 *** [12D]
This route is now rebolted and lots of fun for the WHOLE family!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001 (BB) Jaco Myburgh & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D]
Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.
FA: Bine Tittel 2005

==== The Junkyard ====
82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N]
At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.
FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006

82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N]
Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.
FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N]
Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N]
Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004

85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N]
20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N]
The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.
FA: Jens Richter 2003

85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N]
Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.
FA: Jens Richter 2005

85.6) SCRABBLE 18 *** [N]
Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.
FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003

85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N]
Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N]
30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004

85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N]
Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

===Wonderland===
==== Tranquilitas ====
===== The Creche =====

347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D]
Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007

347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D]
Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.43) MEL 11 *** [8D]
Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.47) ME TARZAN, YOU JANE 16 **** [9D]
Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.5) JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D]
Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.6) CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D]
Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.65) FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D]
Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: Brad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

347.7) EXCUSE ME, WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D]
Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007
===== Good And Evil Area =====
355.5) NEW ROUTE 12 ???
This route starts up on a ledge halfway up the crag, right of COOL RUNNINGS. [Please provide the details if you opened this line.]

===== Malaria Area =====

355.6) PROJECT ???

357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D]
Starts 5m left of Atlantis. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004

357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D]
Starts about 15m left of S.W.A.T. Team. FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.6) S.W.A.T. Team 23 *** [10D]
Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003

357.7) ELDORADO 27 **** [11D]
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery take you to the chains. Possibly solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

363.3) ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D]
Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.4) EVELYN 18 *** [12D]
Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.45) BALANCE OF POWER 22 **** [8D]
Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

363.5) ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D]
A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

===== Grunt Area =====

363.6) FUG 22 **** [?D]
New route well indicated on the rock. FA: Unknown 2005

363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D]
One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007

363.7) ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D]
The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: Unknown 2005

363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D]
The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005

367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D]
Starts on a pile of rocks 3m right of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003

367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D]
Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

===== Rubik's Cube Boulders =====

369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D]
Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the moiddle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross move, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

369.4) PIT FIGHTER 31 *****
Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. Probably 7C+ boulder. Fantastic power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009

369.5) RUBIK'S CUBE 28 **** [6D]
Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

==== Baboon Buttress ====
Closed Project: [Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.

Closed Project: [7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully

369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D]
First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

369.5) TRENCH TOWN 15 *** [5D] DRIES
Slab on arête in descent gully. FA:C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006

369.6) ADAM 22 **** [6D]
From the ledge halfway down the descent gully, climb slanting feature. FA:Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007

370.3) ONE LOVE 22 *** [5D]
Climb the face just right of the cave. FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006

370.35) ALMOST USCHI 22 **** [6D]
Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007

370.4) GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 **** [9D] DRIES
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006

370.47) RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D]
From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.5) LUCKY LEILA 22 *** [12] DRIES
Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004

370.55) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 1 17 ** [5D]
From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.56) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 2 21 *** [8D]
Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.6) QINA 19 *** [???] DRIES
Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

370.65) NO MORE DYNAMO 20 *** [8D]
Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

371.3) SLAVE SPECIES 25 *** [6D] DRY
Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

371.5) PRETENDERS 24 **** [8D] DRY
Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007

371.6) GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *** [9D] DRIES
Shares first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at original anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004

372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS
Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

372.4) LEGENDS 25 *** [6D] DRY
Nice face climb, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.5) JAMANI 19 *** [6D] DRY
Fine dihedral with a good crack. Finish below the roof. FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006

372.6) SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D]
Long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrament. FA: Alard Hufner 2007

372.6(a) SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D??]
Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008

372.6(b) THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D]
Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just righ of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008

372.6(c) TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D]
Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009

==== Rainy Day Wall ====
372.7(1) WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D]
Starts about 2m left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008.

372.7) HEROES 25/26 *** [9D] DRY
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this and up the wall above to below the upper roof. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.7a) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Anchors placed June 2008. Plan is to head for the obvious arete.

372.8) DREAMERS 23 *** [11D] DRY
Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 *** [14D]
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Grade to be confirmed. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.

372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D]
Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.

372.8c) Closed Project
Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash

372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D] Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. FA: Glenn Harrison 2007

373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 ***
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.

373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 27 *** (lots)
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring

373.3)GODZILLA 31 ***** (14D)
Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.

373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D]
The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner

373.5) THE BEAST aka THE ANIMAL TRAP 32 ***** [16D]
Start up Monster and take the rigt hand break at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'animal trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Low in the grade. Brilliant. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008

373.5b) SPACE CADET 30 ***** (18D)
8a for the effort! A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. Takes a cunning line through very steep ground to gain access to a wonderful headwall. A bit of everything from technical arete, burly roof, knarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roofy section - that way drag is negligable. Half height lower off. 70 m rope needed to lower in one. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2009.

373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 (12D)***
Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008

373.7) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs. Bolted in June 2008.

373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D]
Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008

373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 ** [4D]
A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright

373.9b) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D]
This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007

373.9c) TOKOLOSIE 30 ***** [14D]
Probably 30. Sustanined and with lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.

373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 *** (13D)
Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Top third ges dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.

==== The God No! Wall ====
375.4) VORPAL SWORD 30**** (16D) The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. Brilliant. Need a 70 m rope. FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008

375.5) HELL YEAH! 27*** [17D]
A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route. FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006

==== Hallucinogen Wall ====
391.5) TWO CAM SAM 23 ***
Start in the corner up to loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007

394.5) MANSLAVES 15 ***
Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D]
Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003

395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D]
Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006

407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D]
Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004

424.4) SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D]
Takes the trad line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter 2003

424.5) THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D]
The hidden line 4m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004

439.5) CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D]
Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.5) (THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D]
Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.7) MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D]
Climb the grove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

443.5) DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D]
Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005

447.1) UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 *** [7D]
Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash

==== Reunion Wall ====
On the walk from Hallucinogen to Superbowl a small crag is found on the left.

457.4) I DEXE 24 **** [10D]
The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel 2005

457.5) CACTUS PALLACE 23 ***** [10D]
The obvious bolted line diagonally up right. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004

457.6) FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 **** [8D]
The parallel route to the right of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Jens Richter 2005

==== The Superbowl ====
457.7) KIMCHI 27 **** [11D]
FA: Dan Honeymann 2007

457.8) DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 *** [13D]
Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005

461) ***Correction***
GIANTS, back down to 26, if you use the correct beta!

461.9) KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D]
Starts on RUDE BUSHMAN and then go left. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D]
Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007

463.5) HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D]
Between Lotter's Desire and Tugela Blue. An interesting line that requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork and a bit of intestinal fortitude. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005

464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D]
Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006

464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D]
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004

467) *update* TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES 26
Eish, enough now! We all agree for a change, eh? The drop-in anchors could do with replacing...

471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D]
New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006

471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D]
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003

==== The Left Wing ====
486) NEW YORK CHOCOLATE FUDGE CRUNCH 18 *** [10D]
The small u-bolt anchors have been extended to make lowering off easier. Thanks.

==== The Theater ====
503) Kindred Spirits 25 **** [9D]
Re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. A GREAT line, now with shiny new bolts! Climb it. FA: Grant Murray '92

==== The Stone Philosopher Area ====
This crag is around the corner from JOY DIVISION.

507.4) COLLAPSE OF REASON 22 *** [10D]
The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.5) RISE OF FAITH 22 *** [10D]
The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.6) UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D]
Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007

Yellow Wood Amphitheatre

2009-05-22T08:16:01Z

Keith: Redirecting to Yellowwood Amphitheatre

#REDIRECT [[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]

File:JeremyOnNewBorn.jpg

2009-05-22T08:12:07Z

Keith:

South African Climbing Wiki

2009-05-22T08:09:33Z

Keith: /* Western Cape */

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum username and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current username to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] Permits and Access
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Krakadow]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*Cape Peninsula
A note on the weather: If the wind is blowing SE which is common in summer, we have what Cape-Climbers refer to as the "Schlorck Factor" at some of the crags; the rock becomes so slippery and even damp that it seems as if someone smeared oil onto the holds. Climbing is near impossible unless you have a bucket of chalk to compensate! This effect is caused by sea water being blown onto the crags (from afar that is).

Crags affected: The Mine, The Hole, Silvermine Crags, Elsies Peak, Kalk Bay Crags, Peers Cave...

The rock friction is rarely if ever altered on the climbs that start at the "Ledge" on Table Mountain.

When the North Wester blows, it generally means that bad weather is on the way (but it could take a day or two to arrive.) The air can be warm and balmy before the clouds race in from the Atlantic. If Lions Head mountain is covered in cloud there is a high chance its going to rain in the next couple of hours.

When a so called cold "front" approaches then the best escape is to head to Montagu where a rain shadow protects the area from rain. As the front moves in from the sea over the peninsula there will be some delay before it gets to Paarl and then the Du Toit's Kloof range will also hold back the front for half a day or so. So one can climb at Paarl Rocks or Hellfire crag for a morning or afternoon. Unfortunately, as the "front" approaches it can get very windy in the Du Toit's pass as it acts as a chute.

The Cedarberg can also be considered but depending on the size of the front, it can rain there too.

Of the crags within an hour two of Cape Town, Karbonaatjies Kraal is the last crag to be affected by wet weather.
*[[India Venster Trail]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
***Towerkop

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]]
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Mutango Lodge]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

South African Climbing Wiki

2009-05-22T07:43:08Z

Keith:

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum username and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current username to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] Permits and Access
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*[[Du Toits Kloof]]
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing]]
**[[Yellow Wood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Krakadow]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*Cape Peninsula
A note on the weather: If the wind is blowing SE which is common in summer, we have what Cape-Climbers refer to as the "Schlorck Factor" at some of the crags; the rock becomes so slippery and even damp that it seems as if someone smeared oil onto the holds. Climbing is near impossible unless you have a bucket of chalk to compensate! This effect is caused by sea water being blown onto the crags (from afar that is).

Crags affected: The Mine, The Hole, Silvermine Crags, Elsies Peak, Kalk Bay Crags, Peers Cave...

The rock friction is rarely if ever altered on the climbs that start at the "Ledge" on Table Mountain.

When the North Wester blows, it generally means that bad weather is on the way (but it could take a day or two to arrive.) The air can be warm and balmy before the clouds race in from the Atlantic. If Lions Head mountain is covered in cloud there is a high chance its going to rain in the next couple of hours.

When a so called cold "front" approaches then the best escape is to head to Montagu where a rain shadow protects the area from rain. As the front moves in from the sea over the peninsula there will be some delay before it gets to Paarl and then the Du Toit's Kloof range will also hold back the front for half a day or so. So one can climb at Paarl Rocks or Hellfire crag for a morning or afternoon. Unfortunately, as the "front" approaches it can get very windy in the Du Toit's pass as it acts as a chute.

The Cedarberg can also be considered but depending on the size of the front, it can rain there too.

Of the crags within an hour two of Cape Town, Karbonaatjies Kraal is the last crag to be affected by wet weather.
*[[India Venster Trail]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
***Towerkop

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]]
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Mutango Lodge]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
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Waterval Boven

2009-05-22T07:41:42Z

Keith:

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== Getting There ==

<googlemap lat="-25.642" lon="30.3288" zoom="11">
-25.642, 30.3288, Waterval-Boven, South Africa
</googlemap>

If you are coming from outside Gauteng or Mpumalunga, the best city to fly to is either Nelspruit or Johannesburg. Nelspruit is closer to Waterval Boven, but flying to Johannesburg may be cheaper.

* From Nelspruit: follow the sign for Machadodorp, Witbank or even Johannesburg. Once on the N4 keep going straight for about 95km and take turn off on your left for Waterval Boven.

* From Johannesburg: drive east on the N12 (take direction Boksburg out of the airport), then follow the N4 to Waterval Boven.

For bookings and info, visit the [http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope] office next to the third stop sign after entering the town of Waterval Boven.

[[Image:volker.jpg|288px|frame|center|Volker Schweinbenz on AS THE WORLD DISAPPEARS (26) on the Last Crag of the Century]]

== Accommodation and Food==

A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags ([http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets]) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals. 
[http://www.rocrope.com Roc 'n Rope]: Tel: 013 257 0363, climb@rocrope.com

The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4547]. Rather stay at the [http://www.rocrope.com/tranquilitas.html Tranquillitas Chalets] on top of the Wonderland crags.

Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.

== Safety ==
'''Malaria''' 
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.

'''Snakes and spiders''' 
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.

'''Crime''' 
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.

There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).

'''Emergency Phone Numbers''' 
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203.
This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.

Local Rescue Services:
*072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)
*082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg
*013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police
*013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital

Also useful:
*10111 - SA Police
*10117 - Ambulance
*082 911 - Emergency

== Rest Day Activities ==

''' Krugerhof ''' 
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).

''' Sudwala Caves ''' 
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.

''' The Kruger National Park ''' 
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.

''' Hiking ''' 
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.

''' Bouldering ''' 
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.

''' Paragliding ''' 
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.

''' Mountain Biking ''' 
The hills around town offer exciting mountain biking opportunities with existing trails.

''' Horse Riding ''' 
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.

''' Fly Fishing ''' 
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.

== Route Updates ==

These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy.

[[Image: Guide book.jpg|288px|frame|center|Get your copy before it goes out of print.]]

===Waterfall Area===
==== The Last Crag of the Century ====

15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A]
Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.
FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009

19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D]
Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!
FA: Jens Richter 2005

21) CAFFEINE JITTERS 15 *** [12D]
This route is now rebolted and lots of fun for the WHOLE family!
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001 (BB) Jaco Myburgh & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D]
Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.
FA: Bine Tittel 2005

==== The Junkyard ====
82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N]
At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.
FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006

82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N]
Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.
FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N]
Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N]
Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004

85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N]
20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N]
The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag.
FA: Jens Richter 2003

85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N]
Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.
FA: Jens Richter 2005

85.6) SCRABBLE 18 *** [N]
Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.
FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003

85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N]
Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004

85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N]
30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004

85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N]
Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

===Wonderland===
==== Tranquilitas ====
===== The Creche =====

347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D]
Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007

347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D]
Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.43) MEL 11 *** [8D]
Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.47) ME TARZAN, YOU JANE 16 **** [9D]
Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.5) JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D]
Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.6) CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D]
Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

347.65) FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D]
Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: Brad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

347.7) EXCUSE ME, WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D]
Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007
===== Good And Evil Area =====
355.5) NEW ROUTE 12 ???
This route starts up on a ledge halfway up the crag, right of COOL RUNNINGS. [Please provide the details if you opened this line.]

===== Malaria Area =====

355.6) PROJECT ???

357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D]
Starts 5m left of Atlantis. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004

357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D]
Starts about 15m left of S.W.A.T. Team. FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

357.6) S.W.A.T. Team 23 *** [10D]
Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003

357.7) ELDORADO 27 **** [11D]
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery take you to the chains. Possibly solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley 2004

363.3) ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D]
Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.4) EVELYN 18 *** [12D]
Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

363.45) BALANCE OF POWER 22 **** [8D]
Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

363.5) ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D]
A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006

===== Grunt Area =====

363.6) FUG 22 **** [?D]
New route well indicated on the rock. FA: Unknown 2005

363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D]
One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007

363.7) ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D]
The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: Unknown 2005

363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D]
The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005

367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D]
Starts on a pile of rocks 3m right of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003

367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D]
Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003

===== Rubik's Cube Boulders =====

369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D]
Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the moiddle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross move, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

369.4) PIT FIGHTER 31 *****
Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. Probably 7C+ boulder. Fantastic power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009

369.5) RUBIK'S CUBE 28 **** [6D]
Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008

==== Baboon Buttress ====
Closed Project: [Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.

Closed Project: [7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully

369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D]
First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008

369.5) TRENCH TOWN 15 *** [5D] DRIES
Slab on arête in descent gully. FA:C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006

369.6) ADAM 22 **** [6D]
From the ledge halfway down the descent gully, climb slanting feature. FA:Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007

370.3) ONE LOVE 22 *** [5D]
Climb the face just right of the cave. FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006

370.35) ALMOST USCHI 22 **** [6D]
Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007

370.4) GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 **** [9D] DRIES
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006

370.47) RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D]
From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.5) LUCKY LEILA 22 *** [12] DRIES
Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004

370.55) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 1 17 ** [5D]
From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.56) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 2 21 *** [8D]
Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

370.6) QINA 19 *** [???] DRIES
Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

370.65) NO MORE DYNAMO 20 *** [8D]
Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007

371.3) SLAVE SPECIES 25 *** [6D] DRY
Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

371.5) PRETENDERS 24 **** [8D] DRY
Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007

371.6) GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *** [9D] DRIES
Shares first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at original anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004

372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS
Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006

372.4) LEGENDS 25 *** [6D] DRY
Nice face climb, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.5) JAMANI 19 *** [6D] DRY
Fine dihedral with a good crack. Finish below the roof. FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006

372.6) SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D]
Long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrament. FA: Alard Hufner 2007

372.6(a) SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D??]
Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008

372.6(b) THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D]
Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just righ of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008

372.6(c) TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D]
Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009

==== Rainy Day Wall ====
372.7(1) WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D]
Starts about 2m left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008.

372.7) HEROES 25/26 *** [9D] DRY
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this and up the wall above to below the upper roof. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006

372.7a) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Anchors placed June 2008. Plan is to head for the obvious arete.

372.8) DREAMERS 23 *** [11D] DRY
Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007

372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 *** [14D]
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Grade to be confirmed. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.

372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D]
Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.

372.8c) Closed Project
Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash

372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D] Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. FA: Glenn Harrison 2007

373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 ***
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.

373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 27 *** (lots)
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring

373.3)GODZILLA 31 ***** (14D)
Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.

373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D]
The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner

373.5) THE BEAST aka THE ANIMAL TRAP 32 ***** [16D]
Start up Monster and take the rigt hand break at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'animal trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Low in the grade. Brilliant. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008

373.5b) SPACE CADET 30 ***** (18D)
8a for the effort! A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. Takes a cunning line through very steep ground to gain access to a wonderful headwall. A bit of everything from technical arete, burly roof, knarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roofy section - that way drag is negligable. Half height lower off. 70 m rope needed to lower in one. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2009.

373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 (12D)***
Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008

373.7) Closed Project [Mark Millar]
Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs. Bolted in June 2008.

373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D]
Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008

373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 ** [4D]
A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright

373.9b) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D]
This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007

373.9c) TOKOLOSIE 30 ***** [14D]
Probably 30. Sustanined and with lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.

373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 *** (13D)
Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Top third ges dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.

==== The God No! Wall ====
375.4) VORPAL SWORD 30**** (16D) The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. Brilliant. Need a 70 m rope. FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008

375.5) HELL YEAH! 27*** [17D]
A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route. FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006

=== Hallucinogen Wall ===
391.5) TWO CAM SAM 23 ***
Start in the corner up to loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007

394.5) MANSLAVES 15 ***
Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D]
Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003

395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D]
Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006

407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D]
Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004

424.4) SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D]
Takes the trad line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter 2003

424.5) THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D]
The hidden line 4m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004

439.5) CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D]
Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.5) (THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D]
Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005

442.7) MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D]
Climb the grove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008

443.5) DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D]
Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005

447.1) UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 *** [7D]
Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash

==== Reunion Wall ====
On the walk from Hallucinogen to Superbowl a small crag is found on the left.

457.4) I DEXE 24 **** [10D]
The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel 2005

457.5) CACTUS PALLACE 23 ***** [10D]
The obvious bolted line diagonally up right. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004

457.6) FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 **** [8D]
The parallel route to the right of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Jens Richter 2005

==== The Superbowl ====
457.7) KIMCHI 27 **** [11D]
FA: Dan Honeymann 2007

457.8) DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 *** [13D]
Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005

461) ***Correction***
GIANTS, back down to 26, if you use the correct beta!

461.9) KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D]
Starts on RUDE BUSHMAN and then go left. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004

462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D]
Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007

463.5) HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D]
Between Lotter's Desire and Tugela Blue. An interesting line that requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork and a bit of intestinal fortitude. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005

464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D]
Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006

464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D]
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004

467) *update* TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES 26
Eish, enough now! We all agree for a change, eh? The drop-in anchors could do with replacing...

471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D]
New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006

471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D]
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003

==== The Left Wing ====
486) NEW YORK CHOCOLATE FUDGE CRUNCH 18 *** [10D]
The small u-bolt anchors have been extended to make lowering off easier. Thanks.

==== The Theater ====
503) Kindred Spirits 25 **** [9D]
Re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. A GREAT line, now with shiny new bolts! Climb it. FA: Grant Murray '92

==== The Stone Philosopher Area ====
This crag is around the corner from JOY DIVISION.

507.4) COLLAPSE OF REASON 22 *** [10D]
The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.5) RISE OF FAITH 22 *** [10D]
The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005

507.6) UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D]
Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007

Yellow Wood Amphitheatre

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Keith: New page: '''Prime Time Direct 24''' Prime Direct Yellow Wood Amphitheatre '''Start''' The best way to find...

'''Prime Time Direct 24'''

[[Image:Prime_Time_Direct_Yellowwood_colour_Dec_2008_with_stances_web large.png|frame|Prime Direct Yellow Wood Amphitheatre]]

'''Start'''

The best way to find the start is to have a good look at the photograph. It starts almost directly below the rectangular overhang in the middle of the Amphitheatre. Above at about 5m is a shallow left facing corner.

'''Pitch 1: 25m 21'''

Climb up the corner until it gets to a tenuous stemming move. Continue up to a ledge on blocks. Or move left across the slab on good holds to a crack system and continue to the rail. Move back right to the blocks and then from the right side continue up the overlap above. Diagonal up left and do a tricky move into the short right facing corner to a good belay.

'''Pitch 2: 35m 24'''

This is sustained and varied and exciting pitch as good as any on Yellow Wood. Climb up to the rectangular overhang and then swing out left onto a thin rail. Have some tiny cams ready. Crank up and then do a tenuous stemming move to get to the easier ground below the large left facing corner. Continue up the corner with some funky moves to a rail under the overhang and rail right onto the exposed arete. Climb straight up from the edge to a rail about 4m above. Move right a couple of meters and then head diagonally up right on a low angle slab. Belay on a good ledge on the left.

First Ascent: Charles Edelstein and Dave Vallet December 2008

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