South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Lower Buttresses

2013-01-28T14:50:58Z

Lelikegogga:

==='''A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27/28'''===
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

Starts on the same ledge as for Manoeuvres By Moonlight (MBM) about 10m left of that route and climbs up trending slightly rightwards towards the prominent, large, overhanging nose above.

'''Pitch 1 12m 27/28:'''

Start just right of a large boulder with a jagged top edge. Use a flake on the wall to get to the roof, step left, and reach back into the rail in the roof behind you. Move out along the rail then reach right to the lip of the roof below an open book (fixed nut). Climb to the rail above and move right across the open book to a jam. Pull straight up onto the face and open book above. Stance above this at a threaded sling.

Gear: Beware of the large, jagged boulder. Place some cams at the base of the roof both left and right of the line to protect the first few moves until established in the roof.

'''Pitch 2 15m 23:'''

Move 3m right towards a small corner. Climb this and then through a small bulge to reach the MBM rail. Traverse 1m right along the rail and climb straight up the obvious layback flake. Continue through a short, smooth, bulging face/corner and up 5m to a good ledge.

'''Pitch 3 20m 12:'''

Scramble right and a little up below the large, overhanging nose to a good stance about 5m below and right of the nose (just down and right from a thin, balancing block).

'''Pitch 4 20m 24:'''

Climb up the block to a rail below a roof. Traverse left until it is possible to pull up into the corner on the right hand side of the nose. Rail left onto the exposed nose and climb the airy face and arete. Continue up to the top of the nose.

'''Descent:''' Either scramble up and walk off right or abseil directly down off a fixed point (small tree, 60m ropes) back to the starting ledge.

'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2012)

==='''Direct Pressure 28/29'''===
An obvious direct version to the first pitch of Cabin Pressure:
Start as for Cabin Pressure and climb straight up through the roof and over the slopy shelf joining Cabin Pressure again at the higher rail.

A short boulder problem with good gear and clean falls. Consensus grading needed. I think it's about the same or maybe a grade harder than Cabin Pressure's 1st pitch (definitely harder moves, but shorter and less fiddly with gear).

'''FA:''' Phlip Olivier (26 Jan 2013)

==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

'''Start:''' From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.

Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.

'''Pitch 1 30m 17:'''

Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.

'''Pitch 2 10m 22:'''

A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.

'''Pitch 3 30m 23:'''

Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.

'''Pitch 4 20m 22:'''

Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.

Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010

[[File:Arrow.jpg|frame|center|alt=Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area.|Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area. Blue = A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure Green = Moonlight Direct]]

==='''Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress'''===

Earlier ascents of this or similar lines have occurred but have not been written up. The route provides an nice straight line up steep rock. Unfortunatley while the second pitch provides fun climbing, the rock is rather vegitated. Hopefully more ascents will clean it up some what. The third pitch makes up for it, with great moves on an exposed wall.
Start in obvious recess 10m right of the start of Fraser’s Frontal.

'''Pitch 1 20m F2:'''

Starting at the wide crack, climb straight up clean rock, crossing two ledges to a stance beneath a roof, 4m left of the first stance on Fraser’s

'''Pitch 2 40m F3:'''

Climb up to the roof, passing it on the right. Climb approx. 10m up the (mossy) wall above to a ledge. Above & to the right is a small overhang capped by a nose. This nose can be passed on the either side but it’s more fun on the right. Climb diagonally right up the mossy wall until one reaches a prominent rail level with the 2nd stance of Frasers. Travers right to the same stance.

'''Pitch 3 35m G1/2:'''

Above is a shallow scoop running up the centre of the obviuos flat wall. A third of the way up the wall is a prominent arrow head flake (more solid than it looks !) Start beneath the flake, climbing diagonally leftward for about 5m before moving rightwards up to the flake. Climb onto the flake & then straight up the scoop above on small holds. Some small Camalots – around C3 # 0 – are very useful for this section. The wall is topped by a roof split by a hanging open book. Pull strenously up this to the top.

'''First ascent:'''

Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005

[[File:Lefthall-1.JPG]]
[[File:Lefthall-2.JPG]]

==='''Fun Factory 24'''===
Venster Buttress, Table Mountain

About the steepest rock on the lower buttresses, at the far right of the Venster Buttress.
Start about 3m right of ''Pappadum'', directly under the apex of the roof system above. Has some wild moves and plenty of exposure.

'''Pitch 1 30m 20:'''

Climb up the face about 3m right of the featured arete, tending slightly right through a vague V-shaped recess (created by blocks on the prow) and then easily up to a stance about 5m below the roofs.

'''Pitch 2 20m 24:'''

Head up past a huge rectangular block and then rail about 2m right at the base of a roof until able to pull up into the corner. At the ceiling, traverse right over the void and pull up to next rail. Move further right and balance up to establish on a small platform. Finish up and slightly right to a ledge.

Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos, 26 Mar 2011

'''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

Kalk Bay

2011-11-22T09:08:08Z

Lelikegogga:

37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.

== Gear ==
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== New Route Development (Bolting) ==
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. NB: Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.

== Getting there ==
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

East side: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove. 
West side: From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===
=== The Boatyard ===
Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher 
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 

2. Blood & Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis

=== Neptune's Cove ===

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.

=== Oyster Box ===
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]

[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16/5c FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

2c. Lurchin' to the Left 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis

6. Pocket Rocket 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis

[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]

1. Sinbad 18/6a FA Ross Suter

=== Mermaid Wall ===
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.

[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]

1. Jack in the Green 22/6c FA Beth Higgins

2. Songs from the Wood 18/6a FA Tony Lourens

3. City Rockers 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.

4. Mermaid 16/5c FA Ross Suter

=== The lower tier crags ===

[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]

=== Blackbeard's Cave ===
1. Open Project 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.

2. Dark Angel 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.

3. Xses 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.

3a. Excessive Xses 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.

4. Dickless Tics 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes

5. Space Wasp 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.

6. Sunset Arete 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeard's Cave and the Treasure Chest.

=== The Treasure Chest ===
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.

7. Open Project 8b?

8. Golden Eye 30/8a FA Nick Mathews

9. Wysiwig 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.

10. Tetris 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.

=== Mini Roof ===
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) 
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]
 
1. Roofie 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
2. Ninja Warrior 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.

Kalk Bay

2011-06-06T09:47:39Z

Lelikegogga:

37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.

== Gear ==
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

East side: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side: From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===
=== The Boatyard ===
Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher 
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis

=== Neptunes Cove ===

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.

=== Oyster Box ===
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]

[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16/5c FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis

6. Pocket Rocket 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis

[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]

1. Sinbad 18/6a FA Ross Suter

=== Mermaid Wall ===
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.

[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]

1. Jack in the Green 22/6c FA Beth Higgins

2. Songs from the Wood 18/6a FA Tony Lourens

3. City Rockers 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.

4. Mermaid 16/5c FA Ross Suter

=== The lower tier crags ===
(Topos coming soon!)

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
1. Open Project 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.

2. Dark Angel 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.

3. Xses 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.

3a. Excessive Xses 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.

4. Dickless Tics 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes

5. Space Wasp 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.

Sunset Arete 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.

=== The Treasure Chest ===
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.

1. Open Project 8b?

2. Golden Eye 30/8a FA Nick Mathews

3. Open Project 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.

4. Wysiwig 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.

5. Tetris 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.

=== Mini Roof ===
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) 
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]
 
1. Roofie 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
2. Ninja Warrior 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.

File:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg

2011-06-06T09:19:37Z

Lelikegogga: Mini roof as seen from west side parking

Mini roof as seen from west side parking

File:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg

2011-06-06T09:09:15Z

Lelikegogga:

Kalk Bay

2011-05-26T08:01:59Z

Lelikegogga:

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
The walk takes about 20 min. At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Just before the saddle, the path crosses some stone steps, on your left you will see a cairn marking a vague trail. Follow this over a rise onto rock slabs in a notch in the saddle. Go right and through the notch exiting it's left side. Folllow the trail up towards the crags. One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

== Route Update ==
See Western Cape Rock by Tony Lourens for detail on existing routes
=== Dockside ===
* Wide Ride (24) 
Right of Stowaway. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (23) 
Right of Little Fishies (#7 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Unnamed (25) 
Left of Import Tax (#8 in book). 
FA Unknown.

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26?) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs to be confirmed. It could be anything from 24-28. 
FA Phlip Olivier?

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-23T20:40:01Z

Lelikegogga: /* Neptunes Cove */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
The walk takes about 20 min. At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Just before the saddle, the path crosses some stone steps, on your left you will see a cairn marking a vague trail. Follow this over a rise onto rock slabs in a notch in the saddle. Go right and through the notch exiting it's left side. Folllow the trail up towards the crags. One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

== Route Update ==
See Western Cape Rock by Tony Lourens for detail on existing routes
=== Dockside ===
* Wide Ride (24) 
Right of Stowaway. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (23) 
Right of Little Fishies (#7 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Unnamed (25) 
Left of Import Tax (#8 in book). 
FA Unknown.

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26?) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs to be confirmed. It could be anything from 24-28. 
FA Phlip Olivier?

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of Was (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-23T20:37:43Z

Lelikegogga:

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
The walk takes about 20 min. At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Just before the saddle, the path crosses some stone steps, on your left you will see a cairn marking a vague trail. Follow this over a rise onto rock slabs in a notch in the saddle. Go right and through the notch exiting it's left side. Folllow the trail up towards the crags. One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

== Route Update ==
See Western Cape Rock by Tony Lourens for detail on existing routes
=== Dockside ===
* Wide Ride (24) 
Right of Stowaway. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (23) 
Right of Little Fishies (#7 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Unnamed (25) 
Left of Import Tax (#8 in book). 
FA Unknown.

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26?) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs to be confirmed. It could be anything from 24-28. 
FA Phlip Olivier.

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of Was (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-23T20:27:37Z

Lelikegogga:

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
The walk takes about 20 min. At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Just before the saddle, the path crosses some stone steps, on your left you will see a cairn marking a vague trail. Follow this over a rise onto rock slabs in a notch in the saddle. Go right and through the notch exiting it's left side. Folllow the trail up towards the crags. One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

== Route Update ==
See Western Cape Rock by Tony Lourens for detail on existing routes
=== Dockside ===
* Wide Ride (24) 
Right of Stowaway. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (23) 
Right of Little Fishies (#7 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Unnamed (25) 
Left of Import Tax (#8 in book). 
FA Unknown.

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart?
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26?) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs to be confirmed. It could be anything from 24-28. 
FA Phlip Olivier.
 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of Was (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

File:Paarl roadside crack 01.jpg

2011-03-25T13:09:00Z

Lelikegogga:

File:Gritstyle.jpg

2010-11-02T21:02:26Z

Lelikegogga:

File:Hidden gem.jpg

2010-11-02T21:00:28Z

Lelikegogga:

File:Crank prank.jpg

2010-11-02T20:57:26Z

Lelikegogga: