South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Renaissance G2/M3 ***** 1977

2013-01-23T13:47:21Z

Nic le maitre:

It runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the center. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-West, under the conspicuous triangular roof (but using the right-hand edge of the ramp). The broad pillar ahead is climbed up its left-hand side (jamming cracks), and crossed to the right on top. Thereafter, the excellent middle section of the wall is climbed in a line trending slightly to the right, through the only roof in this part. (North by North-West is crossed to the right of the A1 traverse, pitch 11. This leads straight up to the huge red overhangs, which are negotiated via the break seen from the valley, running diagonally through from right to left. Grey rock is reached, which leads with difficulty on to a steep wall to the left of the rock fall scar.

Start under the enormous triangular roof, behind a tree where the Recess route goes up leftwards. Climb and scramble 15m diagonally to the right to ledges on the right-hand ramp.

1) 35m F1: Climb the right-hand side of the ramp to a tree

2) 40m F2: Above the tree, swing to the right (F3) onto a nose, then continue up the right-hand side of the ramp

3) 40m F3: Climb up to a recess tot he right of of a small blocky roof, then layback strenuously through the gap. Continue up the ramp

4) 30m F2: Continue up clean rock to a big ledge
Traverse 15m right to the left-hand side of a broad pillar

5) 35m G2: Climb the jamming cracks strenuously to the top of the pillar
From the right-hand side of the pillar, climb to a ledge (E3), then traverse 15m to the right to a stance below a jagged jamming crack. The route now heads for the crack system leading slightly to the right towards the triangular roof (the only roof on this part of the wall).

6) 40m G2 with one aid move: Ignore the jagged crack , and starting with one nut for aid, climb the vertical wall on the left. Move to the right on flakes after 4m, then climb up a good thin crack for 10m (peg runner left in), until a thin traverse to the right leads to a break up on good holds trending diagonally to the right. Stance 10m up the break.

7) 30m F3: Continue up the break, which turns into a semi-chimney, and belay on the ledge to the right (left is the A1 traverse of N by N-W)

8) 35m G1 and M2): Take off up blocky rock rock from the right-hand side of the ledge, then climb the crack leading to the right-hand side of the red roof (bong left in place). Aid through the flared crack in the block in the roof (3 nuts), up to a rail under the final roof, where a hanging stance can be made on the right to avoid rope drag

9)15m F3: Climb the small ledge on the right and up on tiny holds to a roof. Move left (tricky) and climb a crack to a ledge. Belay on the right

10) 35m F3: Traverse to the right, past a block, the ascend the wall round the corner on square holds, with occasional runners, ending in a difficult mantleshelf move onto a ledge.

11) 35m F3: Above is a large coffin-overhang below all the other overhangs. Climb straight up to the left-hand edge of the overhang, up the crack leading past on the left, until a step to the right leads onto the top of the overhang. Climb up to a rail under smaller roofs, then traverse to the left for 10m (delicate) to a stance amongst blocks

12) 40m G1: Traverse 15m to the left along rails, until flakes lead to a recess and up to a roof (good runner). Hand traverse to the left to a narrow ledge below a grey face. Directly below, through the red overhangs is the Bong pitch of N by N-W

13) 30m G2 and M3: Climb the compact grey face from the left-hand edge of the grey face, with occasional good runners (three nuts for aid). Stance slightly to the right of the previous stance

14) 15m F3: Follow a handrail round a corner to the right to a hidden crack leading to a roof. Traverse to the right along another rail to the skyline Move 20m to the right to a steep grey face to the left of the old rockfall scar.

15) 40m F2: Climb diagonally to the right to reach rails leading back to the left across the grey face, then climb steep blocky rock to a chimney.

16) 20m E: Climb the chimney and traverse to the left under a roof to a ledge.

The final ledge is one rope length higher. Two finishes are possible.

17a)45m F3: Traverse 15m to the left to a stance and the corner of the wall. Round the corner, pass a huge flake, the continue diagonally to the left, climbing steeply to a traverse across an exposed grey face. Make difficult moves off a rounded ledge and up diagonally to the left on steep rock to the final ledge (reached directly below an enormous rectangular roof on the right-hand side of the tower above.

Traverse to the right for two rope lengths into the grassy bay above the North-West face.
17b)45m F1: traverse to the right under the roof on pitch 16 and ascend a pleasant grey face to the walk off ledge. Finish to the right in the grassy bay.

"The climb should only be attempted by a leader capable of mastering the most difficult of present day (1977) G routes."
"It is advisable for any party attempting this route to be familiar with the technique of prussiking."

D Cheesmond and A Dick, 12 November 1977
MCSA Journal 1977 p69-71

Renaissance G2/M3 ***** 1977

2013-01-23T13:45:46Z

Nic le maitre:

It runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the center. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-West, under the conspicuous triangular roof (but using the right-hand edge of the ramp). The broad pillar ahead is climbed up its left-hand side (jamming cracks), and crossed to the right on top. Thereafter, the excellent middle section of the wall is climbed in a line trending slightly to the right, through the only roof in this part. (North by North-West is crossed to the right of the A1 traverse, pitch 11. This leads straight up to the huge red overhangs, which are negotiated via the break seen from the valley, running diagonally through from right to left. Grey rock is reached, which leads with difficulty on to a steep wall to the left of the rock fall scar.

Start under the enormous triangular roof, behind a tree where the Recess route goes up leftwards. Climb and scramble 15m diagonally to the right to ledges on the right-hand ramp.
1) 35m F1: Climb the right-hand side of the ramp to a tree
2) 40m F2: Above the tree, swing to the right (F3) onto a nose, then continue up the right-hand side of the ramp
3) 40m F3: Climb up to a recess tot he right of of a small blocky roof, then layback strenuously through the gap. Continue up the ramp
4) 30m F2: Continue up clean rock to a big ledge
Traverse 15m right to the left-hand side of a broad pillar
5) 35m G2: Climb the jamming cracks strenuously to the top of the pillar
From the right-hand side of the pillar, climb to a ledge (E3), then traverse 15m to the right to a stance below a jagged jamming crack. The route now heads for the crack system leading slightly to the right towards the triangular roof (the only roof on this part of the wall).
6) 40m G2 with one aid move: Ignore the jagged crack , and starting with one nut for aid, climb the vertical wall on the left. Move to the right on flakes after 4m, then climb up a good thin crack for 10m (peg runner left in), until a thin traverse to the right leads to a break up on good holds trending diagonally to the right. Stance 10m up the break.
7) 30m F3: Continue up the break, which turns into a semi-chimney, and belay on the ledge to the right (left is the A1 traverse of N by N-W)
8) 35m G1 and M2): Take off up blocky rock rock from the right-hand side of the ledge, then climb the crack leading to the right-hand side of the red roof (bong left in place). Aid through the flared crack in the block in the roof (3 nuts), up to a rail under the final roof, where a hanging stance can be made on the right to avoid rope drag
9)15m F3: Climb the small ledge on the right and up on tiny holds to a roof. Move left (tricky) and climb a crack to a ledge. Belay on the right
10) 35m F3: Traverse to the right, past a block, the ascend the wall round the corner on square holds, with occasional runners, ending in a difficult mantleshelf move onto a ledge.
11) 35m F3: Above is a large coffin-overhang below all the other overhangs. Climb straight up to the left-hand edge of the overhang, up the crack leading past on the left, until a step to the right leads onto the top of the overhang. Climb up to a rail under smaller roofs, then traverse to the left for 10m (delicate) to a stance amongst blocks
12) 40m G1: Traverse 15m to the left along rails, until flakes lead to a recess and up to a roof (good runner). Hand traverse to the left to a narrow ledge below a grey face. Directly below, through the red overhangs is the Bong pitch of N by N-W
13) 30m G2 and M3: Climb the compact grey face from the left-hand edge of the grey face, with occasional good runners (three nuts for aid). Stance slightly to the right of the previous stance
14) 15m F3: Follow a handrail round a corner to the right to a hidden crack leading to a roof. Traverse to the right along another rail to the skyline Move 20m to the right to a steep grey face to the left of the old rockfall scar.
15) 40m F2: Climb diagonally to the right to reach rails leading back to the left across the grey face, then climb steep blocky rock to a chimney.
16) 20m E: Climb the chimney and traverse to the left under a roof to a ledge.
The final ledge is one rope length higher. Two finishes are possible.
17a)45m F3: Traverse 15m to the left to a stance and the corner of the wall. Round the corner, pass a huge flake, the continue diagonally to the left, climbing steeply to a traverse across an exposed grey face. Make difficult moves off a rounded ledge and up diagonally to the left on steep rock to the final ledge (reached directly below an enormous rectangular roof on the right-hand side of the tower above.
Traverse to the right for two rope lengths into the grassy bay above the North-West face.
17b)45m F1: traverse to the right under the roof on pitch 16 and ascend a pleasant grey face to the walk off ledge. Finish to the right in the grassy bay.

"The climb should only be attempted by a leader capable of mastering the most difficult of present day (1977) G routes."
"It is advisable for any party attempting this route to be familiar with the technique of prussiking."

D Cheesmond and A Dick, 12 November 1977
MCSA Journal 1977 p69-71

Renaissance G2/M3 ***** 1977

2013-01-23T13:43:39Z

Nic le maitre: Created page with "It runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the center. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-..."

It runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the center. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-West, under the conspicuous triangular roof (but using the right-hand edge of the ramp). The broad pillar ahead is climbed up its left-hand side (jamming cracks), and crossed to the right on top. Thereafter, the excellent middle section of the wall is climbed in a line trending slightly to the right, through the only roof in this part. (North by North-West is crossed to the right of the A1 traverse, pitch 11. This leads straight up to the huge red overhangs, which are negotiated via the break seen from the valley, running diagonally through from right to left. Grey rock is reached, which leads with difficulty on to a steep wall to the left of the rock fall scar.

Start under the enormous triangular roof, behind a tree where the Recess route goes up leftwards. Climb and scramble 15m diagonally to the right to ledges on the right-hand ramp.
1) 35m F1: Climb the right-hand side of the ramp to a tree
2) 40m F2: Above the tree, swing to the right (F3) onto a nose, then continue up the right-hand side of the ramp
3) 40m F3: Climb up to a recess tot he right of of a small blocky roof, then layback strenuously through the gap. Continue up the ramp
4) 30m F2: Continue up clean rock to a big ledge
Traverse 15m right to the left-hand side of a broad pillar
5) 35m G2: Climb the jamming cracks strenuously to the top of the pillar
From the right-hand side of the pillar, climb to a ledge (E3), then traverse 15m to the right to a stance below a jagged jamming crack. The route now heads for
the crack system leading slightly to the right towards the triangular roof (the only roof on this part of the wall).
6) 40m G2 with one aid move: Ignore the jagged crack , and starting with one nut for aid, climb the vertical wall on the left. Move to the right on flakes after 4m, then
climb up a good thin crack for 10m (peg runner left in), until a thin traverse to the right leads to a break up on good holds trending
diagonally to the right. Stance 10m up the break.
7) 30m F3: Continue up the break, which turns into a semi-chimney, and belay on the ledge to the right (left is the A1 traverse of N by N-W)
8) 35m G1 and M2): Take off up blocky rock rock from the right-hand side of the ledge, then climb the crack leading to the right-hand side of the red roof (bong left in
place). Aid through the flared crack in the block in the roof (3 nuts), up to a rail under the final roof, where a hanging stance can be made on the right
to avoid rope drag
9)15m F3: Climb the small ledge on the right and up on tiny holds to a roof. Move left (tricky) and climb a crack to a ledge. Belay on the right
10) 35m F3: Traverse to the right, past a block, the ascend the wall round the corner on square holds, with occasional runners, ending in a difficult mantleshelf move onto
a ledge.
11) 35m F3: Above is a large coffin-overhang below all the other overhangs. Climb straight up to the left-hand edge of the overhang, up the crack leading past on the left,
until a step to the right leads onto the top of the overhang. Climb up to a rail under smaller roofs, then traverse to the left for 10m (delicate) to a stance
amongst blocks
12) 40m G1: Traverse 15m to the left along rails, until flakes lead to a recess and up to a roof (good runner). Hand traverse to the left to a narrow ledge below a grey
face. Directly below, through the red overhangs is the Bong pitch of N by N-W
13) 30m G2 and M3: Climb the compact grey face from the left-hand edge of the grey face, with occasional good runners (three nuts for aid). Stance slightly to the right of
the previous stance
14) 15m F3: Follow a handrail round a corner to the right to a hidden crack leading to a roof. Traverse to the right along another rail to the skyline
Move 20m to the right to a steep grey face to the left of the old rockfall scar.
15) 40m F2: Climb diagonally to the right to reach rails leading back to the left across the grey face, then climb steep blocky rock to a chimney.
16) 20m E: Climb the chimney and traverse to the left under a roof to a ledge.
The final ledge is one rope length higher. Two finishes are possible.
17a)45m F3: Traverse 15m to the left to a stance and the corner of the wall. Round the corner, pass a huge flake, the continue diagonally to the left, climbing steeply to
a traverse across an exposed grey face. Make difficult moves off a rounded ledge and up diagonally to the left on steep rock to the final ledge (reached
directly below an enormous rectangular roof on the right-hand side of the tower above.
Traverse to the right for two rope lengths into the grassy bay above the North-West face.
17b)45m F1: traverse to the right under the roof on pitch 16 and ascend a pleasant grey face to the walk off ledge. Finish to the right in the grassy bay.

"The climb should only be attempted by a leader capable of mastering the most difficult of present day (1977) G routes."
"It is advisable for any party attempting this route to be familiar with the technique of prussiking."

D Cheesmond and A Dick, 12 November 1977
MCSA Journal 1977 p69-71

Du Toits Kloof

2013-01-23T12:56:33Z

Nic le maitre: /* Du Toits Peak Massif - Du Toits Peak */

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.723769
| Longitude = 19.151545
| Climbing Type = Multi-Pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = When it hasn't rained and isn't going to rain.
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Du Toits Kloof

}}

This impressive valley with it's huge sandstone walls contains some great country routes. The only drawback to this area is that in most cases you have to do a long slog up the mountain side to get to the rock. But do not let this fact stop you from exploring this vast and beautiful area. It offers some of the most challenging traditional climbing in South Africa and still has more first ascents waiting for the intrepid climber.

multi-pitch traditional climbing on the 'Du Toits Peak Massif' with +/-38 Routes, the 'Haelhoek Sneeukop Massiff' with +/-17 Routes and the 'Witteberg' which has +/-15 Routes.

2-4 hours depending on where you are going.

== Gear ==
Full rack of friends and nuts, long slings useful to avoid rope drag. Rope: 50m /60m - double ropes are recommended. A helmet is also a MUST.

==The climbing ==
It's country climbing, the less popular routes often have vegetation and other 'stuff' growing, lurking on them.
The rock is generally good, although you may come across small patches of not so nice sections.

The climbing in Yellowwood amphitheatre is particularly good
Bouldering can be found on the Worcestor side of the tunnel at the end of the pass (just before things get flat - look right to see a large boulder field.
= How to get there =
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, drive past Paarl and you will get within a kilometre of the mountains. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R18) or driving over the pass which is very scenic. Once on the other side of the mountain, you will come to the Du Toits Kloof Hotel.
To get to the MCSA hut: Turn around so you are driving back towards Cape Town and take the road as for the pass, just after you take the turn off is a road leading to the MCSA hut.

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =
There is the Du Toits Kloof Hotel and the MCSA hut. There have been reports of car break-ins at the MCSA hut, so dont leave anything inside your car

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =
[[File:DuToits.jpg|800px]]

== Notes ==
The climbing is situated on Cape Nature Conservation (CNC) land and permits can be obtained prior to going. You MUST obtain a Cape Nature Conservation permit to climb at this area. Contact the CNC (www.capenature.org.za)or MCSA for details.
E-mail: mcsacapetown@iafrica.com
Tel: (27-21) - 465 3412 (10:00-14:00)

Route Info
Slanghoek Peak
A Private Universe 22,A1 (*****) D Davies, H Davies, M Lloyd-Sim, 2002

Slanghoek Needle
North Ridge of Slanghoek Needle, 18 (***), D Davies and H Davies, 1998

== INTRODUCTION TO THE GUIDE BELOW ==
This guide contains detailed descriptions for a selection of routes in the journals of the Mountin club of south afria up to 1983. This personal selection has been made on the basis of a routes popularity, the fact that it is regarded as a mojor route is merely because it is enjoyable. A complete list of the climbs follows this introduction.

== Grading ==
The grade of each route is shown at the top of each description and indicates the overall severity of the climb. It is not an indication of the difficulty of the hardest move on the route. Free pitches are graded from "c" to "h" with the grades "e" to "h" being expanded by numerals 1 to 3. The letter "m" is used to indicate a mechanical (artificial) pitch supplemented by the numerals 0 to 3.

== Star Grading ==
In addition to giving each route an overall grading, to indicate its seriousness, a system of star grading has been included. The star grading is a critical rating of the merit of the climb and its overall enjoyment.

#(*) a climb of little merit
#(**) a reasonable route
#(***) a good route, worthwhile repeating
#(****) an excellent route
#(*****) an outstanding experience on rock

== Starts ==
Each description contains details of the approach to the route and the main features mentioned are indicated on the map.

== Descent ==
Not every route contains details on how to get off the mountain and it may be necessary to refer to the other descriptions in the area for this information

== Access ==
Climbers are dependent on the goodwill of private landowners and the Department of Forestry for access to all the routes in the guide. Their permission must be obtained in advance for the privilege of access. In addition there are certain rules of general behaviour that climbers are expected to adhere to ,viz:

#1. Apply for access during office hours, not very early or late in the day. Arrive at a reasonable time, do not disturb resident landowners; if required introduce yourself and park in an agreed place.
#2. close gates, respect fences, animals, ploughed lands and orchards.
#3. Do not damage the ecology in any way, make fires or pullet drinking water.
#4. Remove all your liter

Main access contacts for this year are as follows. Where Forestry permission is required, contact the Hawequas State Forest Office.

The MCSA owns the property in the Du Toits Kloof and Agtertafelberg area for the huts but this gives members rights of access only to the huts. Additionally the MCSA owns a share of the land which includes parts of the Slanghoek, Witteberg and the other peaks but members are still expected to observe the courtesouy of t advising the Department of forestry and other landowners that they are in the area.

== List of routes ==
The following is a (hopefully) complete list of all known climbing routes in the Du Toits Kloof area, together with a reference to the year in which the climb id described in the Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa. The routes marked with an asterisk appear in this guide book.

=== Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - Donkerkloof and Haelhoek ===
* 1. Spire Aloe Ridge 1965
* 2. Bella Donna F2 ** 1959
* 3. Blockbuster G1 * 1966
* 4. [[Central Diedre]] - Donkerkloof **** Grade G1/M1 A Dick and R Fuggle (First Acsent) 1969
* 5. Flight of the Bats 1977
* 6. Haelhoek Spire Frontal (Williams) F2 ** 1965
* 7. Haelhoek Spire (Schaff) 1947
* 8. New Dimensions -

=== Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - National Road Routes ===
* 1. Bella Vista F2 * 1958
* 2. Gully Route 1946
* 3. Huguenot Butress (Berrisford) 1946
* 4. Huguenot Buttress Frontal 1947
* 5. Left Central Butress 1946
* 6. Left Wing F2 ** 1973
* 7. Mia's Poort 1946
* 8. Right Central Buttress 1946

=== Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - Du Toits Kloof Pass (Crest) ===
* 1. The toothbrush 1972

=== Witteberg ===
* 1. Berrisfors Route 1935
* 2. Camerons Route E2 *** 1959
* 3. Cascades C *** 1952
* 4. [[Exposure]] in the 'F' Major - Witteberg ***** Grade 17/F3 K fletcher, H Graffland, H Snyders and G Ward 1963
* 5. [[Firecracker F3/M2 * 1974]]
* 6. Freddie 1962
* 7. Grufts route 1959
* 8. Howes Howell's Route 1935
* 9. Madonna 1959
* 10. Nieboch -
* 11. Pins and Needles F2 ** 1968
* 12. [[Pisa Wall]] - Witteberg **** Grade 16/F2 H Graafland and H Snijders 1960
* 13. [[Thunderbolt]] **** G1 H Graafland and M Scott 1967
* 14. [[Thunderbolt Direct]] - Witteberg ***** A1 G1/M2 A Dick and R Fuggle 1970
* 15. Too Late to be Cautious 1959

=== Molenaarsberg ===
* 1. Berrisfords Easy Routes 1932
* 2. Cleft Buttress 1950
* 3. Evans route E1 ** 1963
* 4. Fortress E3 * 1959
* 5. Honey and Hartleys Ridge F2 ** 1966
* 6. Keens Ridge F2 *** 1948
* 7. Left Turret on the fortess 1982
* 8. Millstone wall F3 *** 1960
* 9. Phalanx F1 ** 1964
* 10. Pinnacles Travers D ** 1930
* 11. Watson's South West Route C/D * 1950

=== Slanghoek Peak ===
* 1. Amphitheatre Buttress F1 *** 1961
* 2. Amphitheathre Buttress Direct 1966
* 3. Edge 1967
* 4. Frontal 1932
* 5. Klettershue and Abseil 1963
* 6. Slanghoek Needle Nek F1 * 1932
* 7. Yellow Amphitheathre F3 1978
* 8. [[A Private Universe]] 550m 22,A1 ***** David Davies, Hilton Davies, Matt Lloyd-Sim, 2002

=== Slanghoek Needle ===
* 1. Lotz's Route from Du Toits 1959
* 2. [[North Ridge of Slanghoek Needle]] *** 18, 300m Hilton Davies, David Davies 29 March 1998

=== Slanghoek Pile ===
* 1. Frontal 1938

=== Slanghoek Ridge Peak ===
* 1. Cattells Frontal 1937
* 2. Snijders Frontal 1961

=== Du Toits Peak Massif - De La Bat Ridge===
* 1. Bat Gully 1962
* 2. Black Waterflal Face F2 ** 1965
* 3. Dalibor 1969
* 4. De La Bat Ravine 1962
* 5. De La Bat Ridge 1962
* 6. Dr Falke 1969
* 7. [[Fledermaus]] - De La Bat Ridge ***** Grade 10/E2 (C Inglis, B Quail and P White 1958)
* 8. Left Wing 1962
* 9. Mephistopheles 1962
* 10. Pipstrello 1967
* 11. Red Faced Waterfall F2 **** 1981
* 12. Red Ravine 1962
* 13. Red Ridge 1962
* 14. Right Wing 1962
* 15. Rigioletto F1 *** 1962
* 16. Blood is sweeter than Honey
* 17. New Born
* 18. Prime Time
* 19. Time Warp G1/M1 *** 1977
* 20. Second Coming/Fighting the dark side of gravity
* 21. Armageddon Time]]
* 17. [[Smalblaar Ridge]] F2 *** 1953
* 18. Yellowwood Crack 1962
* 19. Yellowwood Ravine 1962

=== Du Toits Peak Massif - Chess Pieces ===
* 1. [[No More Bells]]
* 2. Castle F1 **** 1966
* 3. Knight F1 ** 1967
* 4. Rooks Pawn F2 *** 1967

=== Du Toits Peak Massif - Du Toits Peak ===
* 4. Chilonga G3 ** 1983
* 5. Currys Frontal D ** 1948
* 6. Jabberwock Ridge 1954
* 7. Left Buttress F2 ** 1974
* 8. North West Face G1 ***** 1950
* 9. North By North West G2/M1 ***** 1971
* 10. North by North West Direct H1 ** 1983
* 11. [[Renaissance G2/M3 ***** 1977]]
* 12. Recess Route 1966

=== Du Toits Peak Massif - Agtertafelberg Area ===
* 1. Column F2 ** 1967
* 2. Minaret 1972
* 3. Pink Panther F2 ** 1967
* 4. Sabre E1 ** 1965
* 5. Scoop F2 ** 1971
* 6. Turret Traverse 1974
* 7. Vibramatic 1967

=== Deception Peak ===
* 1. Ambidexter 1972
* 2. Berrisfords Route 1948
* 3. Deception Direct F1 ** 1972
* 4. Fang Route (Buckland) 1949
* 5. Fang Route (Fletcher) 1961
* 6. Goerge Londts Route 1930
* 7. More Deception D 1975
* 8. Mortons Route 1931

[[Western Cape]]

Smalblaar Ridge

2012-10-05T09:20:24Z

Nic le maitre:

Smalblaar Ridge (F), Du Toits Peak

M. P. Mamacos 1952 (MCSA Journal 1952)

To the east of and overlooking the Forestry Non-European camp site between Molenaarsberg and Du Toit's Peak rises a ridge which has probably been looked on as a prospective by most rock climbers who have passed that way, and who realize that ridges like that of the Klein Winterhoek do not sprout from every peak. From some angles the ridge appears to culminate in a very sharp knife edge, while from others it appears to be merely the left hand end of a series of white turrets which in themselves seem to offer ample scope for rock climbing.

We parked the car about half a mile beyond the camp site and made our way up to the lower part of the ridge which includes a certain amount of rock scrambling and since their is no obvious line of ascent, a description of of the one followed would be of little interest. Suffice it to say that we eventually arrived at the foot of a gendarme which was the last obstacle between us and the final steep rock; and having reached this point, we stopped to survey the impossibilities ahead.
The ridge was indeed a knife edge and a well honed one at that. Near the bottom was a smooth grey slab about 80ft high containing two very vertical cracks the left hand of which looked perhaps wide enough to admit a piton but hopelessly inadequate for hands and feet. Some 200 feet higher, our only hope was a bottomless crack which would have to be approached from below via a smooth slab on which it seemed, one would hardly be able to gain a hold, let alone lean out in order to pull oneself into the crack - which did not seem wide enough anyway. The prospect looked so hopeless that we were all but unanimous that we should turn back while there was yet time to spend the rest of the day wallowing in the pools below. However we skirted the gendarme to the left and climbed up to the neck between it and the knife edge, at which arbitrary point we started roping. Some mild climbing brought us to the bottom of the grey slab. The crack was about 6 inches wide and easily climbable, the main difficulty of the pitch being near the top where the crack peters out. The next pitch, although easy, was most spectacular; an 800ft sheer drop was to be noticed under the right arm and one of 1200ft under the left. There was a stance at the foot of the bottomless crack and although very exposed, the crack was sufficiently wide to accommodate the average body comfortably. At this point there exists an excellent chock stone belay, but a piton was driven in lightly to hold the packs. Unfortunately, the efforts of the last man to extricate it were even lighter and the piton remains to supplement our beacons. There was little further hindrance to our upward progress and and we arrived at the top of the ridge about 3.5 hours after leaving the gendarme, the standard of rockwork having nowhere exceeded mild F with leader belays everywhere. A stone pushed gently outward from our last stance could be seen to fall freely for fully 1200ft.

It was now apparent that the easiest approach to the foot of the knife edge is up the ravine on the Worcester side of the ridge, which would be a pure slog and therefore probably much less interesting.

We descended the backs of the ridges in the direction of Worcester and covering easy ground fairly quickly, arrived at the nearest farm 1.5 hours later. A short walk to the National Road and a diligent plying of thumbs soon had us back at the car.

Detailed description of the climb from the neck behind the gendarme

1st Pitch, E, 70ft: Up the prominent fault to the left of the crest.

2nd Pitch, F, 80ft: A grey face with two prominent vertical cracks. Up the left hand crack.

3rd Pitch, D, 50ft: Up the crest of rib.

4th Pitch, E, 40ft: Up to overhang, straddle around rib to left and continue to foot of bottomless crack.

5th Pitch, F, 40ft: Up bottomless crack to stance at foot of chimney.

6th Pitch, E, 80ft: Up chimney past a large chockstone and scramble to stance at top of climb.

[[Category: Du Toits Kloof]]

Smalblaar Ridge

2012-10-05T09:16:42Z

Nic le maitre: Created page with "Smalblaar Ridge (F), Du Toits Peak M. P. Mamacos 1952 (MCSA Journal 1952) To the east of and overlooking the Forestry Non-European camp site between Molenaarsberg and Du Toi..."

MCSA

2010-06-09T12:16:08Z

Nic le maitre: /* SEARCH AND RESCUE */

The '''Mountain Club of South Africa''' (MCSA) is the largest and oldest mountaineering club in South Africa. It facilitates and organises various mountaineering activities including rock climbing and hiking). The MCSA is involved in mountain search and rescue, training, conservation of mountain areas and the procurement of access for mountaineering.

== HISTORY ==
The MCSA was founded in 1891 and hence is one of the oldest mountaineering clubs in the world. The MCSA is one of only two mountain clubs in Africa which are affiliated to the world mountaineering body, the UIAA. Members of the MCSA have climbed and hiked on all the major mountain ranges throughout the world. Since its inception, the MCSA has published an annual journal. The MCSA Journal is one of the oldest mountain club journals still being published on an annual basis.

The Club is organised into 14 sections geographically spread over South Africa and Namibia and has more than 4000 members.
*Amajuba
*Cape Town
*Eastern Province
*Free State
*Hottentots Holland
*Johannesburg
*KwaZulu-Natal
*Magaliesberg
*Namibia
*Paarl/Wellington
*South Cape
*Stellenbosch
*Tygerberg
*Worcester

The objectives of the Mountain Club of South Africa are to further the interests of mountaineering in South Africa and elsewhere, and in doing so inter alia to:

* Organise and facilitate mountaineering

* Procure and protect real rights in and access to mountains and mountain areas

* Initiate and support actions towards protecting the natural beauty and wilderness character of mountains and to promote their effective conservation management

* Promote the safety and training of mountaineers

* Organise search and rescue parties

* Promote the study of mountains and their environments, the preservation of historical and archaeological sites on them and the dissemination of information on mountains and mountaineering.

== SEARCH AND RESCUE ==
MCSA Search & Rescue is a volunteer run organisation formed under the auspices of the MCSA and funded by MCSA members and donations. We offer wilderness rescue services to bona fide emergencies without charge as a community service. We work in conjunction with other public and private emergency services agencies such as the South African Air Force, WSAR, Off Road Rescue Unit, K9 Rescue, Police, Fire Services, Private Medical services and many others.

MCSA Search and Rescue's area of specialisation lies in the mountains. We therefore are able to respond to incidents in a mountainous or wilderness area which involves missing, overdue, stuck or injured persons.

For emergencies contact:
* Western Cape: Tel 10177 or 021 937 0300
* South Cape (Plettenberg Bay/Knysna/George): Tel 10177
* Eastern Province (Port Elizabeth): Tel 10177 or Convenor: 082 990 7626
* Kwazulu Natal (Durban / Pietermartitzburg): Tel 0800 005-133
* Gauteng / Free State / North West / Limpopo / Mpumalanga: Primary Tel 074 125 1385, Secondary Tel: 074 163 3952 Alternatively contact Metro on Tel 011 315-0203

== PERMITS TO VISIT THE MAGALIESBERG ==
The MCSA (specifically the Johannesburg and Magaliesberg Sections) owns and manages several of the kloofs in the Magaliesberg. Access to these kloofs is controlled for conservation reasons. Up to 20 persons per day can visit a kloof via a permit system (depending on which kloof). A fee of R15 per person per day is charged which goes towards conservation work on the properties (e.g. eradication of alien vegetation as well as fire breaks). MCSA members does not require permits to access MCSA properties when carrying their membership cards, in addition each MCSA member may be accompanied by a guest. '''Note that no facilities are provided and paths are not marked. '''

== HELP KEEP OUR ACCESS OPEN ==
A great deal of work is done by the MCSA to keep access to climbing areas open, please adhere to all access arrangements and help keep climbing and hiking areas open to all. We are seeing many climbing areas overseas losing access and the same is happening in South Africa. Please support our efforts and help stem the trend.

Please contact the MCSA before visiting unknown climbing areas which might be sensitive to access, very often negotions are in progress and you visiting the area can upset them or even close the access. Always keep noise levels down at climbing areas, never litter, preserve the fauna and flora, do your ablutions far from rivers and bury them thoroughly. Remember that fires are usually prohibited in most areas, please respect this and other access conditions the owners may have set (e.g. in many areas you may only arrive and leave in daylight hours).

Above all remember that many of the properties you climb on are privately owned and upsetting the owner (which has proved to be very easy) often causes them to close access.

== PERMITS & ACCESS CONTACT DETAILS ==
{| style="width:75%" border="1" cellpadding="2"
!width="30"|Area
!width="30"|Contact name
!width="30"|Contact details
|-
|-
|Castle Gorge||Club Administrator of Johannesburg Hiking Club|| (t) 087 940 1903 (f) 086 685 5746 (Mon-Fri, 08h00-12h00) [mailto:jhc@mweb.co.za jhc@mweb.co.za] - [http://www.jhbhiking.org.za jhbhiking.org.za]
|-
|Dome||Kari Lowl||087 808 3729 (Mon-Fri 08h00-10h00)
|-
|Grootkloof||Kari Lowl||087 808 3729 (Mon-Fri 08h00-10h00)
|-
|Mhlabatini||Kari Lowl||087 808 3729 (Mon-Fri 08h00-10h00)
|-
|Tonquani complex (incl. Cederberg Kloof and Boulder Kloof)||Uschi Magg||(011) 807 1310 (Uschi Mon-Fri, 08h00-10h00)
|-
|Wolkberg (Hut)||Uschi Magg (For members only)||(011) 807-1310 (Uschi Mon-Fri, 08h00-10h00)
|-
|Other||Uschi Magg||(011) 807-1310 (Uschi Mon-Fri, 08h00-10h00)
|-
|}

== LINKS ==
'''[http://www.mcsa.org.za http://www.mcsa.org.za]'''
'''[http://www.theuiaa.org http://www.theuiaa.org]'''

File:In to valley.jpg

2009-10-19T13:55:56Z

Nic le maitre:

File:Out of valley.jpg

2009-10-19T13:42:10Z

Nic le maitre:

File:Entire route.jpg

2009-10-19T13:39:31Z

Nic le maitre:

File:Above the first rock band.jpg

2009-10-19T13:37:22Z

Nic le maitre:

File:Agtertafeberg to Deception Peak.jpg

2009-10-13T09:36:33Z

Nic le maitre:

Wolwerivier

2009-07-02T08:23:08Z

Nic le maitre: New page: == Wolverivier == This crag is on private land and you may NOT just arrive and start climbing. You must get permission first. To arrange access to this crag please contact Rob Stewardson o...

== Wolverivier ==
This crag is on private land and you may NOT just arrive and start climbing. You must get permission first.
To arrange access to this crag please contact Rob Stewardson on zero eight two four six two one four five one or cheri-rob (at) absamail (dot) co (dot) za.
PLEASE RESPECT THIS, IF YOU DO NOT WE WILL LOSE ACCESS TOTALLY

File:Driving Miss Daisy Area.jpg

2009-02-16T18:10:28Z

Nic le maitre: