South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Fountain Ledge

2013-04-29T14:19:57Z

Q20:

=== '''Africa Edge 21''' ===

'''Start:''' Just before the India Venster trail turns the corner from Africa to Fountain ledge there is a left facing corner. The first pitch ascends the right edge on the clean arête.

'''Pitch 1 12m 16'''

Climb the arête to the top of the buttress.
[[Image:Africa_Edge_1st_pitch.png|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 1''']]

[[Image:Africa_Edge_pitch_2_variations.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Africa Edge: '''Start of Pitch 2'''and pitches 3 to 5 on next buttress with the variations shown.]]

'''Pitch 2 15m 20 or 22'''

Ahead is the next buttress.

Start on the right on blocks under the huge overhang. Climb up into the corner and rail right onto the arête and round it to easier ground and continue easily to the top; or rail back left and 1.5m above the lip of the overhang. Then step up onto the face and continue delicately to the top. A third variation is climb up to the higher rail 3m above the lip of the overhang and rail left to the white face and the climb to the top.

'''Pitches 3 to 5'''

[[Image:Africa_Edge_Pitches_3_to_5_V4.png|200px|thumb|left|Africa Edge Pitches 3 to 5]]
'''Pitch 3 20m 21:'''

Step up on blocks to the rail on the right side of the arête and then do thin moves up to a good hold on the edge at about 4m. Place some pro including a half-in cam and an RP and a reasonably good rock 7 or 8 and then do a lie back move into an under cling to reach the next rail. Place protection on the left but swing round right on the arête to avoid the lichen covered rock on on the left. Attain the next rail, place high pro and again commit to the arête on the right edge to finish the pitch on exposed and airy moves. Stance on a good ledge.

'''Pitch 4 15m 20'''

Step round right and up onto the face on small holds to reach a thin rail. Continue up the arête to another large ledge.

'''Pitch 5 20m 22'''

Climb up to the obvious rail just right around from the main edge of the arête (see photo). Lay back up the right edge after placing a high micro-nut or RP and the step around to the right. Continue up a move and then back left into the crack and continue more easily to the bolted abseil point.

'''First ascent: January 2009'''

Pitches 3 to 5 Charles Edelstein and Tony Dick.
Pitch 1 Robert Breyer and Charles Edelstein
Pitch 2 Charles Edelstein

=== '''TATWOC 25''' ===

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.

[[Image:TATWOC_with_direct_finish_web_l.png|200px|thumb|right|'''TATWOC 25+ and Africa Edge 21 and Touch and Go 19''']]

'''Pitch 1 20m 23:'''

Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.

'''Pitch 2 20m 23:'''

Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
Pitch 3 25m 21:
Climb the grey face to a mantel onto a ledge. Climb straight up the left leaning crack to another ledge. Step right and up onto the undercut face and climb diagonally to the Touch and Go stance under the large overhang. Avoid drag with slings and climb through the Touch and Go roof to the right and step onto the face. Climb up slightly left for 3m and then stance on the Touch and Go stance.

'''Pitch 4 25m 25:'''

Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch. Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge. (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)

'''Descent:''' The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.

'''First ascent:''' 2008/9: Charles Edelstein,Tony Dick, Tini Versveld, Bruce Daniel, Adam Roff, Dave Vallet, Robert Breyer and Willem Le Roux were involved at various times. The acronym - Tired and Totally Wanked-ut Old Climbers - encompasses most of the participants who have an average age well in excess of 40 years of age!

First free ascent: Charles Edelstein 20 December 2008

==='''Arms Race Direct 25'''===

Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.

'''Pitches 2 and 3:'''

Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.

'''First ascent:'''

Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010

==='''La Vida 21'''===

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 18:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge.

Scramble 10m to the right to a big clean ledge with two knee-high blocks on it. At this point you are looking up at a clean white wall just below and right of the chamber.

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Step off the larger block onto the wall and make cruxy lay aways to get to the horizontal crack that leads to the chamber. This is the "dassie ledge" used by Cobblestones. Head up and left on the steep headwall to reach a large ledge with a recess.

'''Pitch 3 10m 19:'''

From the back of the recess move up and left to get through the overhang using the first notch. French Connection continues left to use the second notch. Holy Mackerel heads up the large crack in the back of the recess. Once established on the face above head up directly to the next ledge to belay here. The section above leads to the top of a free-standing pillar which is avoided. Walk left around the corner and into the gap behind the pillar to belay on the big chockstone.

'''Pitch 4 8m 18:'''

Head up the clean arete on the left to a platform that is the top of the second free-standing pillar.

'''Pitch 5 30m 20:'''

Step across onto the face to gain the block on the left. Head up and left on the steep white wall. Move left below the expanding flakes to avoid them. Move up to gain the steep grey face. Head slightly right and up to the top of the wall. NOTE: The original ascent climbed the expanding flakes at grade 22. This variation is not recommended due the fact that gear and handholds are reliant on the creaking flakes.

Scramble to the top or traverse 100m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009

==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''===

[[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]

'''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.

'''Pitch 1 12m 19:'''

Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right

'''Pitch 2 17m 21:'''

Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and the climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.

'''Pitch 3 10m 21:'''

Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a lay back move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".

'''Pitch 4 30m 22 or 22+:'''

Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".

Or climb straight through the roof on REM and higher up pull through the overlap 2m left of the crux of the dream.

'''Pitch 5 20m 14 or 22X:'''

Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.

'''Pitch 6 20m 18:'''

Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top; or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

'''First ascent:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010

==='''Roulette Arête 25, A2'''===

'''Start:''' At the extreme left end of Upper Fountain Ledge where one goes around the bulge to get to the start of Jacob's Ladder.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Climb the middle of the Roulette wall heading directly up and into the overhanging peapod. On the first rail head out left then up to the Roulette platform to stance.

'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''

Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.

'''Pitch 3 35m 19:'''

Head directly up. The route follows the proudest bulge on chicken heads and edges. Place gear when available. Not much to be had.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012

==='''The Squid and the Whale (31) *****'''===

[[File:Squid-and-the-Whale.jpg|350x467px|thumb|alt=Climbing routes on Fountain Ledge | The Squid and the Whale - Jeopardy - Double Jeopardy]]

One of the harder routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.

'''Start:''' Start on the staircase ledge about 5 meters to the right of the arête between Jeopardy and Jacobs ladder.

'''Pitch 1 40m (31):'''

Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the Roulette rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the Roulette ledge, rail right 2 meters and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings.
Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of Jeopardy to 2 more pegs and the Hook rail (the end of Jeopardy). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

'''Pitch 2:'''

Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

'''First ascent:''' J. Smith Feb 2013

=== '''Phantom Squeeze 25 R/X''' ===

A direct, sustained and rather committing route.

Start in the middle of the blank face between the start of ''Boltergeist'' and the arete of ''Don't Squeeze I'll Laugh''

'''Pitch 1 23R/X 15m:'''

Use a rail at belly height to access the face. Now you head straight up for 15m on small flakes and edges. Your first good piece is about ten metres up, so bring a helmet. Stance on a good ledge directly below a steep dihedral, which is on the same level as the ''Finale'' traverse.

'''Pitch 2 25 20m'''

Head for the overhanging dihedral feature. Climb through this to gain the ''Boltergeist'' traverse rail. Step 2m right and pull through the far right hand side of the roof on small edges, and tend left to establish on the face. Now head leftwards under the next roof and break through using a large undercling on its left hand side. Continue to the Staircase Ledge.

'''Pitch 3 24R 20m'''

To the right of the abseil anchors is a detached block/flake from which climbers used to abseil. Climb to the top of the block/flake and continue straight up the clean white face on small holds. This pitch is situated between the last pitches of ''Boltergeist'' and ''Staircase''. Apart from sharing the block at the start with ''Escalator'', it is an independent pitch.

'''FA''' Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey Jan 2013

[[File:phantomsqueeze.jpg|250px|thumb|centre| PS: Phantom Squeeze]]

==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]

'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 15m 18:'''

From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.

'''Pitch 2 35m 21:'''

Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.

'''Pitch 3 35m 16:'''

Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.

'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009

==='''Fountain Reach-Up 21'''===

'''Route info:'''

The route is an old aid route done by Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers in 1970 which has not been freed up until now.

[[Image:Fountain_reach-up.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Reach Up on Fountain Ridge]]

The route has three pitches which go at 15, 21 and 10.

'''Start:'''

The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof one can make a stance and then continue up easily.

'''First ascent:''' Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers

'''First free Ascent:''' Brandon Smith and Catherine Philips

Africa Ledge

2013-04-29T13:54:30Z

Q20: /* Right Face */

==Africa Ledge Proper==

=== '''COCK and Bull Buttress''' ===

This area is below and just left of Arrow Final (facing the mountain) . From the Tea Cave, walk back a short way along the path toward India Venster and you will find the buttress on the left.

[[Image:Cock and Bull Web size v1.JPG|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on the SW face]]

[[Image:Crankarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on East face]]

====''' Matador 25'''====

Start just left of ''Crank and Pull''. Climb the easy crack to the break. Using an undercling in the roof crank onto the steep face and slightly left to a rail. Continue up a steep layback to a wide rail and then fight straight up over the narrow roof onto the smooth face above.

'''FA:''' Richard Halsey, 16/02/2012

==='''Local Legend 24'''===

A hard and bouldery route that is serious to lead. It is named in honour of local legend David Davies.

'''Start:'''

The route is found on Africa Ledge, Table Mountain, and cuts through the zig-zags of Atlantic Crag. A couple of metres to the right of the Oddshouter’s Outing tea cave is the Ruminating Crag chimney. Immediately beyond the chimney is a pillar with an ugly brown crack and wall to its right. Local Legend commences a couple of metres further right in the centre of the white wall. Africa Link-Up starts in the same place and goes off to the right.

'''Pitch 1 30m 19:'''

Step off the large sloping block onto the centre of the left-facing wall. Ascend the face in the centre (tricky lead). At 15m reach a ledge then directly above ascend the right-facing wall finishing up its left edge to reach Upper Africa Ledge. Cross the ledge and scramble up 3m to stance on a big ledge one level below the overhanging white wall.

'''Pitch 2 12m 24:'''

Scramble up on the right to get to the overhanging recess. At this point the Atlantic Crag fourth pitch crack is 3m to the right. To the left is a massive undercut white wall. Ascend the recess trending rightwards, making use of the highest wired nut protection available. Turn the overhanging wall and with difficulty ascend the easier angled rock face above your last protection (crux). Head directly up easy ground to stance on the large ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 3 12m 22:'''

The face to the right is wildly undercut to start. Step up onto the microwave oven-sized block and clip the old piton. This pitch is an aid pitch on Little Jack Horner and the peg was placed in 1980. Stretch up to reach an edge with the left hand and a flat prong with the right. Crank hard to get up and ascend the difficult face towards the right. On easy ground head up and left and then right to a big ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 4 12m 18:'''

Head up broken ground to arrive at the big overhang above to the right of the hanging block. Rail out left on the block and then head up a crack to the ledge above. Walk rightwards to the end of the ledge.

'''Pitch 5 12m 20:'''

From the stance traverse to the right with hands at the level of the overhang to a bottomless recess. Pull into this recess. So far this is the famous crux of the classic Atlantic Crag. Now rail out wildly to the right to the dark and forbidding bottomless recess. Ascend this for 5m to a ledge. Continue up the steep wall ahead for another 4m to another blocky ledge and stance at the big detached flake.

Descent:

To abseil off the Africa Corner bolted anchors scramble up easy ground to the left for 25m. To finish at the cableway station scramble up to the right.

'''First ascent:'''

Hilton Davies, Neels Havenga and Andy Davies on 26 January 2011.

==='''Flaky Dog 21 '''===

[[Image:Flaky_Dog_Upper_Africa_Ledge_Table_Mountain_V1.png|200px|thumb|right|'''Flaky Dog 21''']]

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

'''Start:''' The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

'''Pitch 1 25m 21:'''

Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

'''Pitch 2 30m 21:'''

Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

'''First ascent:''' C Edelstein February 2007

==='''Mad Dog 22'''===

“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the ''African Lunch'' second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.

'''Mad Dog 30m 22:'''

30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.

'''First Ascent 16 February 2007:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer. 

==='''Vapour Trail (28)'''===

Upper Africa Ledge, Table Mountain

Located on the right hand side of Upper Africa Ledge almost directly under the Africa Corner abseils. It starts around the corner to the left of, and at the same level as, the crack pitch of Atlantic Crag.

'''Pitch 1 15m (28):'''

Start off blocks on the left end of the ledge. Reach up to a jug on the prow at the first rail. Rail right for 5m then up a recess to the left side of the upper roof. Rail right for 5m along the upper rail past the bulge and then pull through the roof using a wedged dinner plate and up to the big ledge above.

Gear: Critical cam (blue, 0.3 Camelot size) in lower rail before ascending the recess.

'''Pitch 2 20m (23):'''

On the left side of the ledge, above the recess of pitch 1, is a featured face with a shallow crack system. This is at the same level as, and a bit right of, pitch 1 of Mellow Steady Flow. Climb the crack system tending slightly left at the top to a small ledge. Scramble up and right to the abseil rings and stance there.

'''Pitch 3 35m (21):'''

Climbs straight up above the abseil rings. Ascend two short, white faces and a small, dark corner with a friendly layback crack to a ledge. Climb slightly left up the big, white block above to stance below a short, steep, white face.

'''Pitch 4 10m (22):'''

Climb easily to a small, blocky roof. Rail 1m right and go up a small corner/crack. Head back left and up on some juggy rails to the ledge with the top abseil rings. Can be combined with pitch 3 but the leader is out of sight of the belayer on the top moves and a long way up so a fall could result in hitting the blocks below. Probably best to split into two pitches.

'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2013)

[[File:Vapour_trail.jpg|frame|center|alt=Upper Africa Ledge, right hand side.|Upper Africa Ledge, right hand side. Blue = Vapour Trail Pink squares = Africa Corner abseil anchors]]

== Right Face ==

'''Access''': To access ''Prowling'' and ''Orion'', walk from the upper cable station towards Platteklip Gorge, passing two viewing areas with railings. Continue past the next lookout with a stone wall to the following lookout. From here scramble down to the top of the Africa Ampitheatre cliffs, and walk right (East) for about 50m on a ledge until you get to a drop-off above a gulley. There is an abseil point in situ overlooking the gulley, and a 40m abseil brings you to a ledge (abseiling directly above the prow will leave you hanging in space). Bring some screwgates and two 120cm slings to extend the anchor over edge so rope pulls easily. Walk about 10m back in the direction of the cable station to the base of ''Prowling'' and ''Orion''. For ''Beetle Juice'', scramble up and right to a small platform with a large, perched flake on the right. If needed, you can scramble out to the right of all the routes. 

[[File:prowlingarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre| P: Prowling, O:Orion, BJ: Beetle Juice, Arrow: abseil point]]

==='''Prowling (26)'''===

A long, steep prow near the last pitches of ''Right Face'' and clearly visible from Tafelberg Rd near the Platteklip Gorge parking.

*'''Pitch 1. 40m (26)''' Start under a short vertical crack and move up to a hand rail. Traverse a few meters left until you can pull up to a platform and walk left to below the prow. Use the crack and sidepulls to gain a good rail. Pull up about 1m to a horizontal slot (medium cam), where you move left across the arete, and continue up on the left to the next ledge. From the right of the block on the halfway ledge, move 2m up and then slightly right to a good sidepull in the steep, grey scoop. Some hard moves straight up lead to a thin rail below a small roof. Use a sloper above the roof to move left and strenuously up to good holds. Continue up easily to the left of the diving board (wobbles). Finish out right over the void using a good rail and side pulls. 

'''FA''': R. Halsey, J.Smith & D. Steyn, 9/03/2012

'''FFA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 11/03/2012

==='''Orion (24)'''===

Features a cool 4m roof with great exposure.

*'''Pitch 1. 25m (21)''' Start as for ''Prowling'', but climb straight up to the ledge via a wide vertical crack. Now follow a left tending crack, which starts very thin (with good holds on the right) to a good rail. Move ~1.5m right until below a tiny roof. Pull up and right to good holds on the right of the tiny roof. Continue up the right side of a white bulge to stance on a small ledge with a large horn on the left.

*'''Pitch 2. 20m (24)''' Head straight up for ~6m to a wide rail. Traverse ~2m left until you can pull up to the good rail in the roof (small/medium cams). Move out on this rail until it terminates, then reach a good hold in the roof. Crank to some good holds over the lip, do some circus moves and pull onto the face above. Stance ~8m up at a huge boulder. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 28/01/2013

==='''Beetle Juice (22)'''===

Tackles a strenuous horizontal rail under a roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 30m (22)''' From the little platform, head straight up and then use the hand jam rail that heads out left under the roof to the lip. Pull up on great holds and continue easily to stance at the top under a convenient overhang formed by a boulder. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & C. Martinengo, 04/03/2013

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

File:Phantomsqueeze.jpg

2013-04-29T13:43:35Z

Q20:

Spout

2013-04-09T20:23:15Z

Q20: /* West Face */

__TOC__

=== West Face ===
[[File:Tafelberg Spout West Face small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Spout, West face.|Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Blue = Vital Statistix Red = Bazooka Rodeo]]

[[Image:spout2.jpg|400px]]

Tafelberg, Spout, West Face: 1. Vital Statistix 2. Bazooka Rodeo

==== Vital Statistix (22) **** ====

Spout West Face

Features a strenuous start followed by a good mix of climbing styles. Start in the same place as ''Dogmatix''.

*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (22)''' Start up ''Dogmatix'' for ~3m. At the rail below the roof traverse ~3m right until able to pull strenuously up into a corner. Follow the corner for several meters and then step left and up to a stance on a ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (20)''' Head straight up and then slightly right to pull through the thin roof at its narrowest point. Continue up slabs and a tiny corner (micro cams useful) to a gargantuan ledge.

*'''Pitch 3. 40 m (18)''' Start 7m right of ''Dogmatix'' at a monster pocket containing a small cairn. Climb up to a break, then up on orange flakes to the right of a projecting block. Continue up a short corner to a ledge, then another 5m to the next large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 15 m (16)''' Use a massive layback flake to gain a ledge, then move left to a prominent corner. Climb the recess to the roof, step left, and up to a rail. Pull right and over the roof and then easily up to a ledge.

'''Descent''': The descent scramble / abseil is about 30m in front of you when you top out.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (March 2013)

==== Bazooka Rodeo (25) **** ====

Spout, West Face

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing.
Start about 15m right of ''Dogmatix'', below a pocketed roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (25)''' Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (18)''' Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (19)''' Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40m (20)''' Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30m (19)''' Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

*'''Pitch 6. 15m (20)''' Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

'''FA''': Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).

==== Aqua Spring (22) *** ====

Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. At the good rail where the rock above deteriorates in quality, rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m).

'''FA''': R. Halsey 31/12/11

[[Image:aqua.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Aqua Spring''

=== Near the Cave ===

==== Candle Man (23) *** ====

A short, fun route right near the cave. Good sunset jaunt. From the Sundowner platform above the cave, walk about 30m further back past some large boulders, to an undercut corner capped by a roof with a hand crack on the right.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (23)''' Starting on the left, pull up to a rail and make some bouldery moves to gain the corner. Head up to the roof, rail right and use the roof crack to gain an easy ramp above. Stance at a nice platform.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (15)''' Head up just left of a vague arete, and then easily to stance at some large blocks. After belaying, walk ~10m toward the Pillar Box, over some blocks, to the base of vertical crack.

*'''Pitch 3. 10m (22)''' Climb the crack to a ledge, then tackle a short but steep wall with a vertical finger crack crossed by a horizontal hand crack.

'''Descent''': Tops out right at a tat abseil point. One rap gets you all the way down. Alternatively scramble off left onto the standard descent route.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2013)

{|
|[[File:spout1.jpg|frame|alt=Tafelberg, Spout, Section above Spout Cave|Spout Cave and the north end of the Spout Blue = Candleman]]
|[[File:candleman.jpg|frame|alt=Candleman|Yellow = Candleman]]
|}

==== Pocket Aces (21) **** ====

A steep and pumpy route on great holds. From the Cave, walk toward the Solitare wall, and you will find the route on your right after ~200m, just left of ''Tinkerbell''. Scramble up a knobbly groove to the base.

Starting just left of a hollow, use a break to gain a rail ~3m up. Pull through a narrow roof to the steep face above with pockets. Straight up to the roof, then follow the right tending crack out of the roof to a narrow ledge at the top.

Descent: walk left to join the standard Spout descent route.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Joe Möhle(Dec 2012)

[[Image:pocketaces.jpg|250px]]
 PA. ''Pocket Aces''

=== Ecstacy Wall ===

A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route ''Thumbelina''. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up ''The Central Route''. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.

==== Flaming Woozel (24/25) **** ====

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 12/11/2011

[[Image:woozel.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Flaming Woozel''

=== Solitaire ===

[[Image:solitaire.jpg|300px]]

Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. ''The Inventor'', 2. ''The Cynic'', 3. ''Go Go Gadget''

The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.

==== The Inventor (21) *** ====
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 6/11/11

==== The Cynic (18) ***(*) ====
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.

'''FA''': J. Möhle 6/11/11

==== Flying High (24) **** ====

Start just left of ''Go Go Gadget'' and climb straight up to the first ledge. Reach up to a hand rail, then straight up via gymnastic moves to and from the huge horizontal pocket (in the grey rock with an orange stripe coming down from its centre). Easily to top. Great climbing, pity about the ledge. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 12/02/2012

==== Go Go Gadget (23) **** ====
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 7/11/11

==== Any Takers? (16) *** ====

This is an obvious line that has probably been climbed before but not recorded. It has good, easy climbing and is recorded for completion.

Scramble up a large boulder about 5m left of ''Pinstripe Sweet''. Step onto the face and follow the wide crack, layback and flake to the top.

U. Pitsch & R. Halsey 12/02/2012

====Pinstripe Sweet (23) ***====

Start about 2m left of ''Solitare''. Climb a blunt arete to a ledge. Follow the thin black water streak with some committing moves above the ledge. About half way up the streak you need to make a move left and up for 1m to a thin crack on a flake, before moving right again. At the next ledge move slightly right to a vague corner and then easily to the top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 29/01/2012

>> Back to [[Tafelberg]] page

[[Category:Tafelberg]]

File:Spout2.jpg

2013-04-09T20:18:51Z

Q20:

Lion's Head

2013-03-13T09:19:02Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===

For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.

[[File:bantryarea.jpg|450px|thumb|centre| G: Greyscaling, SL: Stuffed Lion, FF: Fin Fiesta, JC: Jet Cygnet]]

==== Greyscaling (18) *** ====
Start ~5m left of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a corner crack. Climb straight up the white face to a ledge. Continue straight over blocky terrain to the base of a steep, brown layback crack. After a few meters, when the crack peters out, continue straight up, and easily to the top. The lower sections of this route have surely been done before. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Fin Fiesta (19) **** ====
Start ~4m right of ''Stuffed Lion'' directly below the centre of a roof ~10m up. Climb the short face to a ledge, step 1m left and up to a rail below the roof. (There is a loose block to the right, treat with respect). Pull through the roof using large, solid flakes over the lip to the next rail. Move up and right using an undercling and a jug to the base of a wide crack. Continue up and left to a ledge, and then over a bulge (large pocket on the left). Tend slightly right to the vague arete for a few moves, then step left and straight up to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey & S. Jack 31/12/2012 

==== The Jet Cygnet (20) *** ====
Start ~6m right of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a bush in vague corner.
P1, 20m (20). Climb up, step right over the bush and up to a ledge. Step left to a recess, then up to a white, hanging pillar. Move carefully across the pillar to the right, then up to a small roof below a short, brown face. Some tricky reaches bring you to the next roof. Pull through this on good holds, then tend left to a good ledge. Stance below a corner. This will be a grade or two harder if you are short.
P2, 15m (15). Climb the crack system in the corner, near the top head left to a wide ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Asteroid (23) **** ====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== My Naut is better than your Naut" (18) **** ====
Single pitch, 35m, bang in the middle between Cosmonaut & Aquanaut's pitches right of the Gendarme. Start 1,5m left of Aquanaut and hold the line to the ledge. From the ledge pull into the layback crack below the triangular roof 3-4m up; climb through the middle of the roof on good jugs; step left and go straight up the open book to the next roof; step out left from under the roof and go straight up, staying to the right of Cosmonaut. Hold your line up to the abseil anchors. The name came up after a debate on which knot to abseil off.
FA: B.Smith, W.Boshoff & C. Philips 05/02/2013

==== Lion Sedge (21) ***====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== Simbarama (22) ***** ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Feel Ion (23) *** ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== Night Puff (21) *** ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== Mane Course (25) **** ====

Excellent single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. Almost 5 star. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Pride Breaker (24) *** ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== Godsend (23) *** ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably easier if you are tall. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (25), ''Pride Breaker'' (24) and ''Godsend'' (23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== BBD - Boris The Bullet Dodger (15) ** ====
20m Natural - The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of ''Cold War''. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.
FA: Arno van der Heever & Willem Boshoff 17 February 2012

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of ''Power Struggle''. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of ''Power Struggle'' and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of ''Uncle Albert'' and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ** ====
Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between ''Rodney'' and ''Ayoba''.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
Starts as per ''Political Solution''. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
This route lies about midway between ''Power Struggle'' and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face of ''Ayoba''. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 15a - Creekers (15) ** ====
From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 15b Yellow Canary 20m (13) **** ====
Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing ''Creekers'' and finish up the layback crack to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen, 25/03/2012

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of ''Luvely Jubbly''.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of ''The Craving''.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Lions_Head_RD_April_2012.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

Power Struggle-Political Solution Area Photo:
1. ''Windy Block'' (14), 2. ''Name to Follow'' (15), 3. ''Feathered Delight'' (16), 4. ''Ayoba'' (22), 5. ''Political Solution'' (16).

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Fly Bye (19) *** ====
Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. 
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Swindled Swoon (22) *** ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== Bender Blender (22) **** ====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

====The Man Comes Around (20)====
The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.

FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11

==== Cash's King (27) ====

Starts 3-4m right of ''Mean Eyed Cat'' (about 1.5m right of the tip of the Geo-Cache Cave). The route diligently follows a fault from a left facing prow on the lip, all the way to the fault's termination at the top of the crag. Climb through the first roof, then head straight up beneath a larger roof above. Reach through this to some good holds in a rail above, about 1m left of the end of that roof. Stand up on the lip and continue following the fault to the top. This route is very height dependant, and is most likely impossible for anyone shorter than 185cm. 
Note: A 0.5 Camalot or equivalent is useful for the rail over the second roof. 
FA: W. Gans 09/06/2012 

==== Cash Connection (19) **** ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== Grit-Slide (24R) *** ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

=== White Face Sector ===

Start on the rock band where the upper pitches of ''White Face'' are found.

==== Duly Noted, (17) ====
Pitch 1: 15m, 17: 3m right of ''Wailing Wall'' P2 and 2m left of the main fault up ''White Face'' is a break running straight to a roof. Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2: 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of ''Wailing Wall''. Continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.

The route was opened as a single, long pitch.
FA: W Gans, 14/10/2012

File:Bantryarea.jpg

2013-03-13T09:14:48Z

Q20:

Africa Ledge

2013-03-07T15:24:50Z

Q20: /* Right Face */

==Africa Ledge Proper==

=== '''COCK and Bull Buttress''' ===

This area is below and just left of Arrow Final (facing the mountain) . From the Tea Cave, walk back a short way along the path toward India Venster and you will find the buttress on the left.

[[Image:Cock and Bull Web size v1.JPG|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on the SW face]]

[[Image:Crankarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on East face]]

====''' Matador 25'''====

Start just left of ''Crank and Pull''. Climb the easy crack to the break. Using an undercling in the roof crank onto the steep face and slightly left to a rail. Continue up a steep layback to a wide rail and then fight straight up over the narrow roof onto the smooth face above.

'''FA:''' Richard Halsey, 16/02/2012

==='''Local Legend 24'''===

A hard and bouldery route that is serious to lead. It is named in honour of local legend David Davies.

'''Start:'''

The route is found on Africa Ledge, Table Mountain, and cuts through the zig-zags of Atlantic Crag. A couple of metres to the right of the Oddshouter’s Outing tea cave is the Ruminating Crag chimney. Immediately beyond the chimney is a pillar with an ugly brown crack and wall to its right. Local Legend commences a couple of metres further right in the centre of the white wall. Africa Link-Up starts in the same place and goes off to the right.

'''Pitch 1 30m 19:'''

Step off the large sloping block onto the centre of the left-facing wall. Ascend the face in the centre (tricky lead). At 15m reach a ledge then directly above ascend the right-facing wall finishing up its left edge to reach Upper Africa Ledge. Cross the ledge and scramble up 3m to stance on a big ledge one level below the overhanging white wall.

'''Pitch 2 12m 24:'''

Scramble up on the right to get to the overhanging recess. At this point the Atlantic Crag fourth pitch crack is 3m to the right. To the left is a massive undercut white wall. Ascend the recess trending rightwards, making use of the highest wired nut protection available. Turn the overhanging wall and with difficulty ascend the easier angled rock face above your last protection (crux). Head directly up easy ground to stance on the large ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 3 12m 22:'''

The face to the right is wildly undercut to start. Step up onto the microwave oven-sized block and clip the old piton. This pitch is an aid pitch on Little Jack Horner and the peg was placed in 1980. Stretch up to reach an edge with the left hand and a flat prong with the right. Crank hard to get up and ascend the difficult face towards the right. On easy ground head up and left and then right to a big ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 4 12m 18:'''

Head up broken ground to arrive at the big overhang above to the right of the hanging block. Rail out left on the block and then head up a crack to the ledge above. Walk rightwards to the end of the ledge.

'''Pitch 5 12m 20:'''

From the stance traverse to the right with hands at the level of the overhang to a bottomless recess. Pull into this recess. So far this is the famous crux of the classic Atlantic Crag. Now rail out wildly to the right to the dark and forbidding bottomless recess. Ascend this for 5m to a ledge. Continue up the steep wall ahead for another 4m to another blocky ledge and stance at the big detached flake.

Descent:

To abseil off the Africa Corner bolted anchors scramble up easy ground to the left for 25m. To finish at the cableway station scramble up to the right.

'''First ascent:'''

Hilton Davies, Neels Havenga and Andy Davies on 26 January 2011.

==='''Flaky Dog 21 '''===

[[Image:Flaky_Dog_Upper_Africa_Ledge_Table_Mountain_V1.png|200px|thumb|right|'''Flaky Dog 21''']]

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

'''Start:''' The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

'''Pitch 1 25m 21:'''

Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

'''Pitch 2 30m 21:'''

Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

'''First ascent:''' C Edelstein February 2007

==='''Mad Dog 22'''===

“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the ''Africa Lunch'' second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.

'''Mad Dog 30m 22:'''

30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.

'''First Ascent 16 February 2007:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer. 

==='''Vapour Trail (28)'''===

Upper Africa Ledge, Table Mountain

Located on the right hand side of Upper Africa Ledge almost directly under the Africa Corner abseils. It starts around the corner to the left of, and at the same level as, the crack pitch of Atlantic Crag.

'''Pitch 1 15m (28):'''

Start off blocks on the left end of the ledge. Reach up to a jug on the prow at the first rail. Rail right for 5m then up a recess to the left side of the upper roof. Rail right for 5m along the upper rail past the bulge and then pull through the roof using a wedged dinner plate and up to the big ledge above.

Gear: Critical cam (blue, 0.3 Camelot size) in lower rail before ascending the recess.

'''Pitch 2 20m (23):'''

On the left side of the ledge, above the recess of pitch 1, is a featured face with a shallow crack system. This is at the same level as, and a bit right of, pitch 1 of Mellow Steady Flow. Climb the crack system tending slightly left at the top to a small ledge. Scramble up and right to the abseil rings and stance there.

'''Pitch 3 35m (21):'''

Climbs straight up above the abseil rings. Ascend two short, white faces and a small, dark corner with a friendly layback crack to a ledge. Climb slightly left up the big, white block above to stance below a short, steep, white face.

'''Pitch 4 10m (22):'''

Climb easily to a small, blocky roof. Rail 1m right and go up a small corner/crack. Head back left and up on some juggy rails to the ledge with the top abseil rings. Can be combined with pitch 3 but the leader is out of sight of the belayer on the top moves and a long way up so a fall could result in hitting the blocks below. Probably best to split into two pitches.

'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2013)

[[File:Vapour_trail.jpg|frame|center|alt=Upper Africa Ledge, right hand side.|Upper Africa Ledge, right hand side. Blue = Vapour Trail Pink squares = Africa Corner abseil anchors]]

== Right Face ==

'''Access''': To access ''Prowling'' and ''Orion'', walk from the upper cable station towards Platteklip Gorge, passing two viewing areas with railings. Continue past the next lookout with a stone wall to the following lookout. From here scramble down to the top of the Africa Ampitheatre cliffs, and walk right (East) for about 50m on a ledge until you get to a drop-off above a gulley. There is an abseil point in situ overlooking the gulley, and a 40m abseil brings you to a ledge (abseiling directly above the prow will leave you hanging in space). Bring some screwgates and two 120cm slings to extend the anchor over edge so rope pulls easily. Walk about 10m back in the direction of the cable station to the base of ''Prowling'' and ''Orion''. For ''Beetle Juice'', scramble up and right to a small platform with a large, perched flake on the right. If needed, you can scramble out to the right of all the routes. 

[[File:prowlingarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre| P: Prowling, O:Orion, Arrow: abseil point]]

==='''Prowling (26)'''===

A long, steep prow near the last pitches of ''Right Face'' and clearly visible from Tafelberg Rd near the Platteklip Gorge parking.

*'''Pitch 1. 40m (26)''' Start under a short vertical crack and move up to a hand rail. Traverse a few meters left until you can pull up to a platform and walk left to below the prow. Use the crack and sidepulls to gain a good rail. Pull up about 1m to a horizontal slot (medium cam), where you move left across the arete, and continue up on the left to the next ledge. From the right of the block on the halfway ledge, move 2m up and then slightly right to a good sidepull in the steep, grey scoop. Some hard moves straight up lead to a thin rail below a small roof. Use a sloper above the roof to move left and strenuously up to good holds. Continue up easily to the left of the diving board (wobbles). Finish out right over the void using a good rail and side pulls. 

'''FA''': R. Halsey, J.Smith & D. Steyn, 9/03/2012

'''FFA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 11/03/2012

==='''Orion (23-25??)'''===

Features a cool 4m roof with great exposure.

*'''Pitch 1. 25m (21)''' Start as for ''Prowling'', but climb straight up to the ledge via a wide vertical crack. Now follow a left tending crack, which starts very thin (with good holds on the right) to a good rail. Move ~1.5m right until below a tiny roof. Pull up and right to good holds on the right of the tiny roof. Continue up the right side of a white bulge to stance on a small ledge with a large horn on the left.

*'''Pitch 2. 20m (23-25???)''' Head straight up for ~6m to a wide rail. Traverse ~2m left until you can pull up to the good rail in the roof (small/medium cams). Move out on this rail until it terminates, then reach a good hold in the roof. Crank to some good holds over the lip, do some circus moves and pull onto the face above. Stance ~8m up at a huge boulder. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 28/01/2013

==='''Beetle Juice (22??)'''===

Tackles a strenuous horizontal rail under a roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 30m (22??)''' From the little platform, head straight up and then use the hand jam rail that heads out left under the roof to the lip. Pull up on great holds and continue easily to stance at the top under a convenient overhang formed by a boulder. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & C. Martinengo, 04/03/2013

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

File:Prowlingarea.jpg

2013-03-07T15:04:11Z

Q20:

Lion's Head

2013-02-07T16:04:55Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===

For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.

==== Greyscaling (18) *** ====
Start ~5m left of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a corner crack. Climb straight up the white face to a ledge. Continue straight over blocky terrain to the base of a steep, brown layback crack. After a few meters, when the crack peters out, continue straight up, and easily to the top. The lower sections of this route have surely been done before. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Fin Fiesta (19) **** ====
Start ~4m right of ''Stuffed Lion'' directly below the centre of a roof ~10m up. Climb the short face to a ledge, step 1m left and up to a rail below the roof. (There is a loose block to the right, treat with respect). Pull through the roof using large, solid flakes over the lip to the next rail. Move up and right using an undercling and a jug to the base of a wide crack. Continue up and left to a ledge, and then over a bulge (large pocket on the left). Tend slightly right to the vague arete for a few moves, then step left and straight up to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey & S. Jack 31/12/2012 

==== The Jet Cygnet (20) *** ====
Start ~6m right of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a bush in vague corner.
P1, 20m (20). Climb up, step right over the bush and up to a ledge. Step left to a recess, then up to a white, hanging pillar. Move carefully across the pillar to the right, then up to a small roof below a short, brown face. Some tricky reaches bring you to the next roof. Pull through this on good holds, then tend left to a good ledge. Stance below a corner. This will be a grade or two harder if you are short.
P2, 15m (15). Climb the crack system in the corner, near the top head left to a wide ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Asteroid (23) **** ====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== My Naut is better than your Naut" (18) **** ====
Single pitch, 35m, bang in the middle between Cosmonaut & Aquanaut's pitches right of the Gendarme. Start 1,5m left of Aquanaut and hold the line to the ledge. From the ledge pull into the layback crack below the triangular roof 3-4m up; climb through the middle of the roof on good jugs; step left and go straight up the open book to the next roof; step out left from under the roof and go straight up, staying to the right of Cosmonaut. Hold your line up to the abseil anchors. The name came up after a debate on which knot to abseil off.
FA: B.Smith, W.Boshoff & C. Philips 05/02/2013

==== Lion Sedge (21) ***====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== Simbarama (22) ***** ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Feel Ion (23) *** ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== Night Puff (21) *** ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== Mane Course (25) **** ====

Excellent single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. Almost 5 star. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Pride Breaker (24) *** ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== Godsend (23) *** ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably easier if you are tall. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (25), ''Pride Breaker'' (24) and ''Godsend'' (23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== BBD - Boris The Bullet Dodger (15) ** ====
20m Natural - The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of ''Cold War''. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.
FA: Arno van der Heever & Willem Boshoff 17 February 2012

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of ''Power Struggle''. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of ''Power Struggle'' and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of ''Uncle Albert'' and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ** ====
Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between ''Rodney'' and ''Ayoba''.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
Starts as per ''Political Solution''. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
This route lies about midway between ''Power Struggle'' and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face of ''Ayoba''. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 15a - Creekers (15) ** ====
From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 15b Yellow Canary 20m (13) **** ====
Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing ''Creekers'' and finish up the layback crack to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen, 25/03/2012

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of ''Luvely Jubbly''.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of ''The Craving''.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Lions_Head_RD_April_2012.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

Power Struggle-Political Solution Area Photo:
1. ''Windy Block'' (14), 2. ''Name to Follow'' (15), 3. ''Feathered Delight'' (16), 4. ''Ayoba'' (22), 5. ''Political Solution'' (16).

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Fly Bye (19) *** ====
Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. 
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Swindled Swoon (22) *** ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== Bender Blender (22) **** ====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

====The Man Comes Around (20)====
The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.

FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11

==== Cash's King (27) ====

Starts 3-4m right of ''Mean Eyed Cat'' (about 1.5m right of the tip of the Geo-Cache Cave). The route diligently follows a fault from a left facing prow on the lip, all the way to the fault's termination at the top of the crag. Climb through the first roof, then head straight up beneath a larger roof above. Reach through this to some good holds in a rail above, about 1m left of the end of that roof. Stand up on the lip and continue following the fault to the top. This route is very height dependant, and is most likely impossible for anyone shorter than 185cm. 
Note: A 0.5 Camalot or equivalent is useful for the rail over the second roof. 
FA: W. Gans 09/06/2012 

==== Cash Connection (19) **** ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== Grit-Slide (24R) *** ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

=== White Face Sector ===

Start on the rock band where the upper pitches of ''White Face'' are found.

==== Duly Noted, (17) ====
Pitch 1: 15m, 17: 3m right of ''Wailing Wall'' P2 and 2m left of the main fault up ''White Face'' is a break running straight to a roof. Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2: 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of ''Wailing Wall''. Continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.

The route was opened as a single, long pitch.
FA: W Gans, 14/10/2012

Africa Ledge

2013-01-30T11:30:50Z

Q20:

==Africa Ledge Proper==

=== '''COCK and Bull Buttress''' ===

This area is below and just left of Arrow Final (facing the mountain) . From the Tea Cave, walk back a short way along the path toward India Venster and you will find the buttress on the left.

[[Image:Cock and Bull Web size v1.JPG|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on the SW face]]

[[Image:Crankarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on East face]]

====''' Matador 25'''====

Start just left of ''Crank and Pull''. Climb the easy crack to the break. Using an undercling in the roof crank onto the steep face and slightly left to a rail. Continue up a steep layback to a wide rail and then fight straight up over the narrow roof onto the smooth face above.

'''FA:''' Richard Halsey, 16/02/2012

==='''Local Legend 24'''===

A hard and bouldery route that is serious to lead. It is named in honour of local legend David Davies.

'''Start:'''

The route is found on Africa Ledge, Table Mountain, and cuts through the zig-zags of Atlantic Crag. A couple of metres to the right of the Oddshouter’s Outing tea cave is the Ruminating Crag chimney. Immediately beyond the chimney is a pillar with an ugly brown crack and wall to its right. Local Legend commences a couple of metres further right in the centre of the white wall. Africa Link-Up starts in the same place and goes off to the right.

'''Pitch 1 30m 19:'''

Step off the large sloping block onto the centre of the left-facing wall. Ascend the face in the centre (tricky lead). At 15m reach a ledge then directly above ascend the right-facing wall finishing up its left edge to reach Upper Africa Ledge. Cross the ledge and scramble up 3m to stance on a big ledge one level below the overhanging white wall.

'''Pitch 2 12m 24:'''

Scramble up on the right to get to the overhanging recess. At this point the Atlantic Crag fourth pitch crack is 3m to the right. To the left is a massive undercut white wall. Ascend the recess trending rightwards, making use of the highest wired nut protection available. Turn the overhanging wall and with difficulty ascend the easier angled rock face above your last protection (crux). Head directly up easy ground to stance on the large ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 3 12m 22:'''

The face to the right is wildly undercut to start. Step up onto the microwave oven-sized block and clip the old piton. This pitch is an aid pitch on Little Jack Horner and the peg was placed in 1980. Stretch up to reach an edge with the left hand and a flat prong with the right. Crank hard to get up and ascend the difficult face towards the right. On easy ground head up and left and then right to a big ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 4 12m 18:'''

Head up broken ground to arrive at the big overhang above to the right of the hanging block. Rail out left on the block and then head up a crack to the ledge above. Walk rightwards to the end of the ledge.

'''Pitch 5 12m 20:'''

From the stance traverse to the right with hands at the level of the overhang to a bottomless recess. Pull into this recess. So far this is the famous crux of the classic Atlantic Crag. Now rail out wildly to the right to the dark and forbidding bottomless recess. Ascend this for 5m to a ledge. Continue up the steep wall ahead for another 4m to another blocky ledge and stance at the big detached flake.

Descent:

To abseil off the Africa Corner bolted anchors scramble up easy ground to the left for 25m. To finish at the cableway station scramble up to the right.

'''First ascent:'''

Hilton Davies, Neels Havenga and Andy Davies on 26 January 2011.

==='''Flaky Dog 21 '''===

[[Image:Flaky_Dog_Upper_Africa_Ledge_Table_Mountain_V1.png|200px|thumb|right|'''Flaky Dog 21''']]

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

'''Start:''' The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

'''Pitch 1 25m 21:'''

Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

'''Pitch 2 30m 21:'''

Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

'''First ascent:''' C Edelstein February 2007

==='''Mad Dog 22'''===

“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the ''Africa Lunch'' second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.

'''Mad Dog 30m 22:'''

30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.

'''First Ascent 16 February 2007:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer. 

==='''Vapour Trail (28)'''===

Upper Africa Ledge, Table Mountain

Located on the right hand side of Upper Africa Ledge almost directly under the Africa Corner abseils. It starts around the corner to the left of, and at the same level as, the crack pitch of Atlantic Crag.

'''Pitch 1 15m (28):'''

Start off blocks on the left end of the ledge. Reach up to a jug on the prow at the first rail. Rail right for 5m then up a recess to the left side of the upper roof. Rail right for 5m along the upper rail past the bulge and then pull through the roof using a wedged dinner plate and up to the big ledge above.

Gear: Critical cam (blue, 0.3 Camelot size) in lower rail before ascending the recess.

'''Pitch 2 20m (23):'''

On the left side of the ledge, above the recess of pitch 1, is a featured face with a shallow crack system. This is at the same level as, and a bit right of, pitch 1 of Mellow Steady Flow. Climb the crack system tending slightly left at the top to a small ledge. Scramble up and right to the abseil rings and stance there.

'''Pitch 3 35m (21):'''

Climbs straight up above the abseil rings. Ascend two short, white faces and a small, dark corner with a friendly layback crack to a ledge. Climb slightly left up the big, white block above to stance below a short, steep, white face.

'''Pitch 4 10m (22):'''

Climb easily to a small, blocky roof. Rail 1m right and go up a small corner/crack. Head back left and up on some juggy rails to the ledge with the top abseil rings. Can be combined with pitch 3 but the leader is out of sight of the belayer on the top moves and a long way up so a fall could result in hitting the blocks below. Probably best to split into two pitches.

'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2013)

[[File:Vapour_trail.jpg|frame|center|alt=Upper Africa Ledge, right hand side.|Upper Africa Ledge, right hand side. Blue = Vapour Trail Pink squares = Africa Corner abseil anchors]]

== Right Face ==

'''Access''': To access ''Prowling'' and ''Orion'', walk from the upper cable station towards Platteklip Gorge, passing two viewing areas with railings. Continue past the next lookout with a stone wall to the following lookout. From here scramble down to the top of the Africa Ampitheatre cliffs, and walk right (East) for about 50m on a ledge until you get to a drop-off above a gulley. There is an abseil point in situ overlooking the gulley, and a 40m abseil brings you to a ledge (abseiling directly above the prow will leave you hanging in space). Bring some screwgates and two 120cm slings to extend the anchor over edge so rope pulls easily. Walk about 10m back in the direction of the cable station to the base of the routes. If needed, you can scramble out to the right of the routes. 

[[File:orion.jpg|300px|thumb|centre| P: Prowling, O:Orion, Arrow: abseil point]]

==='''Prowling (26)'''===

A long, steep prow near the last pitches of ''Right Face'' and clearly visible from Tafelberg Rd near the Platteklip Gorge parking.

*'''Pitch 1. 40m (26)''' Start under a short vertical crack and move up to a hand rail. Traverse a few meters left until you can pull up to a platform and walk left to below the prow. Use the crack and sidepulls to gain a good rail. Pull up about 1m to a horizontal slot (medium cam), where you move left across the arete, and continue up on the left to the next ledge. From the right of the block on the halfway ledge, move 2m up and then slightly right to a good sidepull in the steep, grey scoop. Some hard moves straight up lead to a thin rail below a small roof. Use a sloper above the roof to move left and strenuously up to good holds. Continue up easily to the left of the diving board (wobbles). Finish out right over the void using a good rail and side pulls. 

'''FA''': R. Halsey, J.Smith & D. Steyn, 9/03/2012

'''FFA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 11/03/2012

==='''Orion (25?)'''===

Features a cool 4m roof with great exposure.

*'''Pitch 1. 25m (21)''' Start as for ''Prowling'', but climb straight up to the ledge via a wide vertical crack. Now follow a left tending crack, which starts very thin (with good holds on the right) to a good rail. Move ~1.5m right until below a tiny roof. Pull up and right to good holds on the right of the tiny roof. Continue up the right side of a white bulge to stance on a small ledge with a large horn on the left.

*'''Pitch 2. 20m (25?)''' Head straight up for ~6m to a wide rail. Traverse ~2m left until you can pull up to the good rail in the roof (small/medium cams). Move out on this rail until it terminates, then reach a good hold in the roof. Crank to some good holds over the lip, do some circus moves and pull onto the face above. Stance ~8m up at a huge boulder. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 28/01/2013

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

File:Orion.jpg

2013-01-30T10:37:49Z

Q20:

Lower Buttresses

2013-01-28T15:26:46Z

Q20:

==='''A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27/28'''===
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

Starts on the same ledge as for Manoeuvres By Moonlight (MBM) about 10m left of that route and climbs up trending slightly rightwards towards the prominent, large, overhanging nose above.

'''Pitch 1 12m 27/28:'''

Start just right of a large boulder with a jagged top edge. Use a flake on the wall to get to the roof, step left, and reach back into the rail in the roof behind you. Move out along the rail then reach right to the lip of the roof below an open book (fixed nut). Climb to the rail above and move right across the open book to a jam. Pull straight up onto the face and open book above. Stance above this at a threaded sling.

Gear: Beware of the large, jagged boulder. Place some cams at the base of the roof both left and right of the line to protect the first few moves until established in the roof.

'''Pitch 2 15m 23:'''

Move 3m right towards a small corner. Climb this and then through a small bulge to reach the MBM rail. Traverse 1m right along the rail and climb straight up the obvious layback flake. Continue through a short, smooth, bulging face/corner and up 5m to a good ledge.

'''Pitch 3 20m 12:'''

Scramble right and a little up below the large, overhanging nose to a good stance about 5m below and right of the nose (just down and right from a thin, balancing block).

'''Pitch 4 20m 24:'''

Climb up the block to a rail below a roof. Traverse left until it is possible to pull up into the corner on the right hand side of the nose. Rail left onto the exposed nose and climb the airy face and arete. Continue up to the top of the nose.

'''Descent:''' Either scramble up and walk off right or abseil directly down off a fixed point (small tree, 60m ropes) back to the starting ledge.

'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2012)

==='''Direct Pressure 28/29'''===
An obvious direct version to the first pitch of Cabin Pressure:
Start as for Cabin Pressure and climb straight up through the roof and over the slopy shelf joining Cabin Pressure again at the higher rail.

A short boulder problem with good gear and clean falls. Consensus grading needed. I think it's about the same or maybe a grade harder than Cabin Pressure's 1st pitch (definitely harder moves, but shorter and less fiddly with gear).

'''FA:''' Phlip Olivier (26 Jan 2013)

==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

'''Start:''' From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.

Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.

'''Pitch 1 30m 17:'''

Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.

'''Pitch 2 10m 22:'''

A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.

'''Pitch 3 30m 23:'''

Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.

'''Pitch 4 20m 22:'''

Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.

Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010

[[File:Arrow.jpg|frame|center|alt=Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area.|Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area. Blue = A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure Green = Moonlight Direct]]

==='''Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress'''===

Earlier ascents of this or similar lines have occurred but have not been written up. The route provides an nice straight line up steep rock. Unfortunatley while the second pitch provides fun climbing, the rock is rather vegitated. Hopefully more ascents will clean it up some what. The third pitch makes up for it, with great moves on an exposed wall.
Start in obvious recess 10m right of the start of Fraser’s Frontal.

'''Pitch 1 20m F2:'''

Starting at the wide crack, climb straight up clean rock, crossing two ledges to a stance beneath a roof, 4m left of the first stance on Fraser’s

'''Pitch 2 40m F3:'''

Climb up to the roof, passing it on the right. Climb approx. 10m up the (mossy) wall above to a ledge. Above & to the right is a small overhang capped by a nose. This nose can be passed on the either side but it’s more fun on the right. Climb diagonally right up the mossy wall until one reaches a prominent rail level with the 2nd stance of Frasers. Travers right to the same stance.

'''Pitch 3 35m G1/2:'''

Above is a shallow scoop running up the centre of the obviuos flat wall. A third of the way up the wall is a prominent arrow head flake (more solid than it looks !) Start beneath the flake, climbing diagonally leftward for about 5m before moving rightwards up to the flake. Climb onto the flake & then straight up the scoop above on small holds. Some small Camalots – around C3 # 0 – are very useful for this section. The wall is topped by a roof split by a hanging open book. Pull strenously up this to the top.

'''First ascent:'''

Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005

[[File:Lefthall-1.JPG|450px]]
[[File:Lefthall-2.JPG|450px]]

==='''Fun Factory 24'''===
Venster Buttress, Table Mountain

About the steepest rock on the lower buttresses, at the far right of the Venster Buttress.
Start about 3m right of ''Pappadum'', directly under the apex of the roof system above. Has some wild moves and plenty of exposure.

'''Pitch 1 30m 20:'''

Climb up the face about 3m right of the featured arete, tending slightly right through a vague V-shaped recess (created by blocks on the prow) and then easily up to a stance about 5m below the roofs.

'''Pitch 2 20m 24:'''

Head up past a huge rectangular block and then rail about 2m right at the base of a roof until able to pull up into the corner. At the ceiling, traverse right over the void and pull up to next rail. Move further right and balance up to establish on a small platform. Finish up and slightly right to a ledge.

Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos, 26 Mar 2011, '''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012

[[File:funfactory.jpg|300px]]

FF: Fun Factory, Venster Buttress

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

File:Funfactory.jpg

2013-01-28T15:17:35Z

Q20:

Spout

2013-01-27T14:25:59Z

Q20:

=== West Face ===
[[Image:spout.jpg|450px]]

Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. 1. Bazooka Rodeo

==== Bazooka Rodeo (25) **** ====

Spout, West Face

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing.
Start about 15m right of ''Dogmatix'', below a pocketed roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (25)''' Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (18)''' Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (19)''' Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40m (20)''' Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30m (19)''' Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

*'''Pitch 6. 15m (20)''' Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

'''FA''': Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).

==== Aqua Spring (22) *** ====

Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. At the good rail where the rock above deteriorates in quality, rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m).

'''FA''': R. Halsey 31/12/11

[[Image:aqua.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Aqua Spring''

=== Near the Cave ===

==== Candle Man (23) *** ====

A short, fun route right near the cave. Good sunset jaunt. From the Sundowner platform above the cave, walk about 30m further back past some large boulders, to an undercut corner capped by a roof with a hand crack on the right.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (23)''' Starting on the left, pull up to a rail and make some bouldery moves to gain the corner. Head up to the roof, rail right and use the roof crack to gain an easy ramp above. Stance at a nice platform.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (15)''' Head up just left of a vague arete, and then easily to stance at some large blocks. After belaying, walk ~10m toward the Pillar Box, over some blocks, to the base of vertical crack.

*'''Pitch 3. 10m (22)''' Climb the crack to a ledge, then tackle a short but steep wall with a vertical finger crack crossed by a horizontal hand crack. .

Descent: Tops out right at a tat abseil point. One rap gets you all the way down. Alternatively scramble off left onto the standard descent route.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2013)

==== Pocket Aces (21) **** ====

A steep and pumpy route on great holds. From the Cave, walk toward the Solitare wall, and you will find the route on your right after ~200m, just left of ''Tinkerbell''. Scramble up a knobbly groove to the base.

Starting just left of a hollow, use a break to gain a rail ~3m up. Pull through a narrow roof to the steep face above with pockets. Straight up to the roof, then follow the right tending crack out of the roof to a narrow ledge at the top.

Descent: walk left to join the standard Spout descent route.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Joe Möhle(Dec 2012)

[[Image:pocketaces.jpg|250px]]
 PA. ''Pocket Aces''

=== Ecstacy Wall ===

A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route ''Thumbelina''. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up ''The Central Route''. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.

==== Flaming Woozel (24/25) **** ====

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 12/11/2011

[[Image:woozel.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Flaming Woozel''

=== Solitaire ===

[[Image:solitaire.jpg|300px]]

Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. ''The Inventor'', 2. ''The Cynic'', 3. ''Go Go Gadget''

The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.

==== The Inventor (21) *** ====
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 6/11/11

==== The Cynic (18) ***(*) ====
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.

'''FA''': J. Möhle 6/11/11

==== Flying High (24) **** ====

Start just left of ''Go Go Gadget'' and climb straight up to the first ledge. Reach up to a hand rail, then straight up via gymnastic moves to and from the huge horizontal pocket (in the grey rock with an orange stripe coming down from its centre). Easily to top. Great climbing, pity about the ledge. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 12/02/2012

==== Go Go Gadget (23) **** ====
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 7/11/11

==== Any Takers? (16) *** ====

This is an obvious line that has probably been climbed before but not recorded. It has good, easy climbing and is recorded for completion.

Scramble up a large boulder about 5m left of ''Pinstripe Sweet''. Step onto the face and follow the wide crack, layback and flake to the top.

U. Pitsch & R. Halsey 12/02/2012

====Pinstripe Sweet (23) ***====

Start about 2m left of ''Solitare''. Climb a blunt arete to a ledge. Follow the thin black water streak with some committing moves above the ledge. About half way up the streak you need to make a move left and up for 1m to a thin crack on a flake, before moving right again. At the next ledge move slightly right to a vague corner and then easily to the top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 29/01/2012

[[Category:Tafelberg]]

File:Pocketaces.jpg

2013-01-27T14:11:00Z

Q20:

Tafelberg Main Wall

2013-01-27T13:54:11Z

Q20:

[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Maidens Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Blue = Amarula Orange = Make Tea Not War Magenta = Danger Shrew Red = Dithering Heights]]

[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Frontal Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Magenta = Danger Shrew Red = Dithering Heights Blue = The Swan Green = Stargate Yellow = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe Orange = The Jedi Fish Cyan = Vuvuzela]]
 

[[File:mainwallright2.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Cyan = Vuvuzela Blue = Freedom Feather Yellow = Boombox Red = Whistling Woozle]]

=== Amarula (23) **** ===

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)

*'''Pitch 1. 25m (19)''' Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge.
*'''Pitch 2. 30m (23)''' An undercut start off of a big horn (there used to be two horns). Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and climb the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right and carry on straight up to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
*''' Pitch 3 25m (21)''' Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
*'''Pitch 4. 50m (18)''' Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

A line between Mothers and Cosy Corner. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great, but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (17)''' Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
*'''Pitch 2. 45 m (20)''' Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.

*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (17)''' The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (18)''' Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)

=== Danger Shrew (24) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (24)''' Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.

*'''Pitch 2. 55 m (21)''' Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.

*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (19)''' In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)

=== Dithering Heights (25) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (21)''' From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (25)''' The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (18)''' Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (18)''' Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (21)''' Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2011)

=== The Swan (24) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left). Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.

*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (24)''' From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge. Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.

*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (23)''' Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 25 m (20)''' Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (21)''' 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.

'''FA''': Adam Roff, Douw Steyn, Gosia Lipinska (Pitches 1 & 2) (2010)

=== Stargate (20) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.

*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (18)''' From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (20)''' Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

=== Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe (24) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (21)''' Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (23)''' Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse". Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.

*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (24)''' Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40 m (21)''' Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.

*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (23)''' Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

'''FA''': Adam Roff, Francie Buhrmann, Gosia Lipinska (2008) 
'''FFA''': Gosia Lipinska, Douw Steyn, Willem le Roux (2009)

=== Iridium Flash (26/27) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

The route breaks through the big roof between ''Grappler'' and ''The Frontal'' with steep and spectacular climbing.
Starts ~30m left of ''The Frontal'', just left of a big roof and under a hook shaped feature at the base of a layback crack. Some extra medium size cams are useful on pitch 2.

*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (23)''' Head up ~5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ~2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double layer roof above.

*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (26/27)''' The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ~7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ~2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams). Consensus grading needed.

*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (16)''' Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Start just right of ''Sorcerer''. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right facing corner. At the top step left onto the gray face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with ''Sorcerer'').

*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (20)''' Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with ''Jedi Fish'' P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ~15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2013)

=== The Jedi Fish (20) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of ''Sorcerer''. Start a few meters
left of ''Tafelberg Frontal'' at a 'tower' cairn.

*'''Pitch 1. 42 m (20)''' Climb straight up for 2 m on a red face with pockets leading to a grey wall. Pleasant grad 12 climbing to a ledge. Continue up little ledges aiming for the open book on the right (''Sorcerer'' takes the easier line even further right). Climb the open book to the roof, take 2 steps to the left and pull through to good holds just left of a lonely small bush. Step right and move up the face to a good stance 10 m above the roof (tower cairn).

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (19)''' A tricky move gets one onto the face. Follow a faint straight line of red lichen and then a white streak to a block on a ledge. Say 'Hello' to the 'Fish jumping out of the waves'-feature below a layback crack. Use the fish's back, delicately, to gain the crack, follow that to a hollow sounding flake and another one with better rock. Move left below the little roof and up to the ledge. Stance at the splitter crack.

*'''Pitch 3. 40 m (19)''' Climb the splitter crack and over some blocks. Tend leftwards to avoid the roof, 2 moves up into a leftwards slanting break. Don't follow the break all the way, instead move right onto the face. Straight up to the top. The last 10 climbing meters are on superb orange, featured rock.
'''FA''': Anita Hintringer and Uwe Pitsch (Feb 2012).

=== Vuvuzela (23) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.

*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (20)''' Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).

*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (19)''' Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (23)''' Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.

*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (22)''' Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.

'''FA''': Adam Roff and Francie Buhrmann (2008) FFA of Pitch 5: Douw Steyn and Ant Hall (2009)

=== Freedom Feather (21) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Another line starting above the massive roof just right of Tafelberg Frontal. Do the first two pitches of the Frontal and walk right along the ledge to about 10m left of where Boomerang goes up. Start at the right hand end of some roofs above you, about 1m right of an obvious recessed corner, and below a white nose.

*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (16)''' Head directly up to the white nose just right of the corner. Reach up to an awesome jug on the tip of the nose and climb up to a big ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 35 m (19)''' Pull up onto the face above the stance and up a small, left-facing corner system towards the right hand side of a detached roof that is almost an arch. Rail 2m right to skirt the roof and up to a ledge.

*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (20)''' The Improbable Pitch. Start off a block a few metres left of where you just came up. Climb up to the second rail then traverse left past an obvious vertical crack. At some loose blocks head up and slightly left to a small stance.

*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (21)''' Head straight up past some delicate moves to a huge ledge. Could be combined with the previous pitch.

*'''Pitch 5. 20 m (21)''' Walk about 8m left to some blocks at the base of a blunt, white nose with layback cracks on either side. Climb up the easier right hand side until able to reach across to the left side. Climb up to a small overlap. Pull through and head up to the base of an impossible looking, smooth, round corner below the summit. Traverse 8m left past a short finger crack to a small stance below a recessed crack.

*'''Pitch 6. 10 m (17)''' Climb the crack and a delicate move to finish.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (January 2012)

=== Boombox (24) ***(*) ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of ''Boomerang Direct''. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of ''Boomerang'' begins.

*'''Pitch 1. 10 m (17)''' Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m).

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (21)''' Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it.

*'''Pitch 3. 25m (17)''' Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right hand side of the roof at big upside down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (24)''' This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meter higher at the base of a wide, left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade.

*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (17)''' Climb the arched crack to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Uwe Pitsch (Oct 2011). FFA of Pitch 4: Richard Halsey.

=== Whistling Woozle (22) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Another route starting off the ledge above the huge roof right of the Frontal. Start at the right hand end of the ledge (as for Boombox).

*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (17)''' Start as for Boombox directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Continue to traverse right below a white dihedral then diagonally up and right to a ledge below a big, vertical crack capped by a double roof.

*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (22)''' About 3m right of the crack climb straight up to a narrow roof with an obvious undercling on the lip. Pull through to the rail below the next roof. Move 1m right then up into the break through the top roof. A beefy layback leads up to stance on a small ledge with a bush.

*'''Pitch 3. 35 m (19)''' Climb straight up to the black roof about 10m up. Pull through on flakes at the widest part. Go up past one big ledge to a second, massive ledge below an obvious corner crack system right of a big roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 35 m (20)''' Climb the corner crack system exiting right at the top onto a tiny corner ledge. Tricky pull past a layback. Climb the face right of the obvious, black corner crack heading to the right of a projecting arete. Up the grey corner to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2012)

>> Back to [[Tafelberg]] page

Africa Ledge

2013-01-09T19:02:43Z

Q20: /* Prowling 26 */

=== '''COCK and Bull Buttress''' ===

This area is below and just left of Arrow Final (facing the mountain) . From the Tea Cave, walk back a short way along the path toward India Venster and you will find the buttress on the left.

[[Image:Cock and Bull Web size v1.JPG|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on the SW face]]

[[Image:Crankarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on East face]]

====''' Matador 25'''====

Start just left of ''Crank and Pull''. Climb the easy crack to the break. Using an undercling in the roof crank onto the steep face and slightly left to a rail. Continue up a steep layback to a wide rail and then fight straight up over the narrow roof onto the smooth face above.

'''FA:''' Richard Halsey, 16/02/2012

==='''Local Legend 24'''===

A hard and bouldery route that is serious to lead. It is named in honour of local legend David Davies.

'''Start:'''

The route is found on Africa Ledge, Table Mountain, and cuts through the zig-zags of Atlantic Crag. A couple of metres to the right of the Oddshouter’s Outing tea cave is the Ruminating Crag chimney. Immediately beyond the chimney is a pillar with an ugly brown crack and wall to its right. Local Legend commences a couple of metres further right in the centre of the white wall. Africa Link-Up starts in the same place and goes off to the right.

'''Pitch 1 30m 19:'''

Step off the large sloping block onto the centre of the left-facing wall. Ascend the face in the centre (tricky lead). At 15m reach a ledge then directly above ascend the right-facing wall finishing up its left edge to reach Upper Africa Ledge. Cross the ledge and scramble up 3m to stance on a big ledge one level below the overhanging white wall.

'''Pitch 2 12m 24:'''

Scramble up on the right to get to the overhanging recess. At this point the Atlantic Crag fourth pitch crack is 3m to the right. To the left is a massive undercut white wall. Ascend the recess trending rightwards, making use of the highest wired nut protection available. Turn the overhanging wall and with difficulty ascend the easier angled rock face above your last protection (crux). Head directly up easy ground to stance on the large ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 3 12m 22:'''

The face to the right is wildly undercut to start. Step up onto the microwave oven-sized block and clip the old piton. This pitch is an aid pitch on Little Jack Horner and the peg was placed in 1980. Stretch up to reach an edge with the left hand and a flat prong with the right. Crank hard to get up and ascend the difficult face towards the right. On easy ground head up and left and then right to a big ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 4 12m 18:'''

Head up broken ground to arrive at the big overhang above to the right of the hanging block. Rail out left on the block and then head up a crack to the ledge above. Walk rightwards to the end of the ledge.

'''Pitch 5 12m 20:'''

From the stance traverse to the right with hands at the level of the overhang to a bottomless recess. Pull into this recess. So far this is the famous crux of the classic Atlantic Crag. Now rail out wildly to the right to the dark and forbidding bottomless recess. Ascend this for 5m to a ledge. Continue up the steep wall ahead for another 4m to another blocky ledge and stance at the big detached flake.

Descent:

To abseil off the Africa Corner bolted anchors scramble up easy ground to the left for 25m. To finish at the cableway station scramble up to the right.

'''First ascent:'''

Hilton Davies, Neels Havenga and Andy Davies on 26 January 2011.

==='''Flaky Dog 21 '''===

[[Image:Flaky_Dog_Upper_Africa_Ledge_Table_Mountain_V1.png|200px|thumb|right|'''Flaky Dog 21''']]

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

'''Start:''' The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

'''Pitch 1 25m 21:'''

Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

'''Pitch 2 30m 21:'''

Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

'''First ascent:''' C Edelstein February 2007

==='''Mad Dog 22'''===

“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the ''Africa Lunch'' second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.

'''Mad Dog 30m 22:'''

30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.

'''First Ascent 16 February 2007:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer. 

==='''Prowling 26'''===

A long, steep prow near the last pitches of ''Right Face'' and clearly visible from Tafelberg Rd near the Platteklip Gorge parking.

[[Image:Prowlingrd.JPG|250px|thumb|left|'''Prowling (26)''']]

'''Access''': From the upper cable station, walk towards Platteklip Gorge, passing two viewing areas with railings. Continue past the next lookout with a stone wall to the following lookout. From here scramble down to the top of the Africa Ampitheatre cliffs, and walk right (East) for about 50m on a ledge until you get to a drop-off above a gulley. There is an abseil point in situ overlooking the gulley, and a 40m abseil brings you to a ledge (abseiling directly above the prow will leave you hanging in space). Bring some screwgates and two 120cm slings to extend the anchor over edge so rope pulls easily. Walk about 10m back in the direction of the cable station to the base of the route.

'''Route''': 40m. Start under a short vertical crack and move up to a hand rail. Traverse a few meters left until you can pull up to a platform and walk left to below the prow. Use the crack and sidepulls to gain a good rail. Pull up about 1m to a horizontal slot (medium cam), where you move left across the arete, and continue up on the left to the next ledge. From the right of the block on the halfway ledge, move 2m up and then slightly right to a good sidepull in the steep, grey scoop. Some hard moves straight up lead to a thin rail below a small roof. Use a sloper above the roof to move left and strenuously up to good holds. Continue up easily to the left of the diving board (wobbles). Finish out right over the void using a good rail and side pulls. 

'''FA''': R. Halsey, J.Smith & D. Steyn 9/03/2012

'''FFA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 11/03/2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

Lion's Head

2013-01-07T20:08:24Z

Q20:

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===

For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.

==== Greyscaling (18) *** ====
Start ~5m left of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a corner crack. Climb straight up the white face to a ledge. Continue straight over blocky terrain to the base of a steep, brown layback crack. After a few meters, when the crack peters out, continue straight up, and easily to the top. The lower sections of this route have surely been done before. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Fin Fiesta (19) **** ====
Start ~4m right of ''Stuffed Lion'' directly below the centre of a roof ~10m up. Climb the short face to a ledge, step 1m left and up to a rail below the roof. (There is a loose block to the right, treat with respect). Pull through the roof using large, solid flakes over the lip to the next rail. Move up and right using an undercling and a jug to the base of a wide crack. Continue up and left to a ledge, and then over a bulge (large pocket on the left). Tend slightly right to the vague arete for a few moves, then step left and straight up to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey & S. Jack 31/12/2012 

==== The Jet Cygnet (20) *** ====
Start ~6m right of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a bush in vague corner.
P1, 20m (20). Climb up, step right over the bush and up to a ledge. Step left to a recess, then up to a white, hanging pillar. Move carefully across the pillar to the right, then up to a small roof below a short, brown face. Some tricky reaches bring you to the next roof. Pull through this on good holds, then tend left to a good ledge. Stance below a corner. This will be a grade or two harder if you are short.
P2, 15m (15). Climb the crack system in the corner, near the top head left to a wide ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Asteroid (23) **** ====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== Lion Sedge (21) ***====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== Simbarama (22) ***** ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Feel Ion (23) *** ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== Night Puff (21) *** ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== Mane Course (26) ****====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Pride Breaker (25) *** ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. Concensus grading needed . 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== Godsend (23) *** ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably easier if you are tall. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (26), ''Pride Breaker'' (25) and ''Godsend'' (23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== BBD - Boris The Bullet Dodger (15) ** ====
20m Natural - The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of ''Cold War''. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.
FA: Arno van der Heever & Willem Boshoff 17 February 2012

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of ''Power Struggle''. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of ''Power Struggle'' and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of ''Uncle Albert'' and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ** ====
Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between ''Rodney'' and ''Ayoba''.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
Starts as per ''Political Solution''. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
This route lies about midway between ''Power Struggle'' and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face of ''Ayoba''. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 15a - Creekers (15) ** ====
From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 15b Yellow Canary 20m (13) **** ====
Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing ''Creekers'' and finish up the layback crack to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen, 25/03/2012

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of ''Luvely Jubbly''.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of ''The Craving''.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Lions_Head_RD_April_2012.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

Power Struggle-Political Solution Area Photo:
1. ''Windy Block'' (14), 2. ''Name to Follow'' (15), 3. ''Feathered Delight'' (16), 4. ''Ayoba'' (22), 5. ''Political Solution'' (16).

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Fly Bye (19) *** ====
Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. 
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Swindled Swoon (22) *** ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== Bender Blender (22) **** ====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

====The Man Comes Around (20)====
The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.

FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11

==== Cash's King (27) ====

Starts 3-4m right of ''Mean Eyed Cat'' (about 1.5m right of the tip of the Geo-Cache Cave). The route diligently follows a fault from a left facing prow on the lip, all the way to the fault's termination at the top of the crag. Climb through the first roof, then head straight up beneath a larger roof above. Reach through this to some good holds in a rail above, about 1m left of the end of that roof. Stand up on the lip and continue following the fault to the top. This route is very height dependant, and is most likely impossible for anyone shorter than 185cm. 
Note: A 0.5 Camalot or equivalent is useful for the rail over the second roof. 
FA: W. Gans 09/06/2012 

==== Cash Connection (19) **** ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== Grit-Slide (24R) *** ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

=== White Face Sector ===

Start on the rock band where the upper pitches of ''White Face'' are found.

==== Duly Noted, (17) ====
Pitch 1: 15m, 17: 3m right of ''Wailing Wall'' P2 and 2m left of the main fault up ''White Face'' is a break running straight to a roof. Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2: 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of ''Wailing Wall''. Continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.

The route was opened as a single, long pitch.
FA: W Gans, 14/10/2012

Lion's Head

2013-01-07T19:58:09Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===

For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.

==== Greyscaling (18) *** ====
Start ~5m left of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a corner crack. Climb straight up the white face to a ledge. Continue straight over blocky terrain to the base of a steep, brown layback crack. After a few meters, when the crack peters out, continue straight up, and easily to the top. The lower sections of this route have surely been done before. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Fin Fiesta (19) **** ====
Start ~4m right of ''Stuffed Lion'' directly below the centre of a roof ~10m up. Climb the short face to a ledge, step 1m left and up to a rail below the roof. (There is a loose block to the right, treat with respect). Pull through the roof using large, solid flakes over the lip to the next rail. Move up and right using an undercling and a jug to the base of a wide crack. Continue up and left to a ledge, and then over a bulge (large pocket on the left). Tend slightly right to the vague arete for a few moves, then step left and straight up to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey & S. Jack 31/12/2012 

==== The Jet Cygnet (20) *** ====
Start ~6m right of ''Stuffed Lion'', just left of a bush in vague corner.
P1, 20m (20). Climb up, step right over the bush and up to a ledge. Step left to a recess, then up to a white, hanging pillar. Move carefully across the pillar to the right, then up to a small roof below a short, brown face. Some tricky reaches bring you to the next roof. Pull through this on good holds, then tend left to a good ledge. Stance below a corner. This will be a grade or two harder if you are short.
P2, 15m (15). Climb the crack system in the corner, near the top head left to a wide ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012 

==== Asteroid (23) **** ====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== Lion Sedge (21) ***====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== Simbarama (22) ***** ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Feel Ion (23) *** ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== Night Puff (21) *** ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== Mane Course (26) ****====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Pride Breaker (25) *** ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. Concensus grading needed . 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== Godsend (23) *** ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably easier if you are tall. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (26), ''Pride Breaker'' (25) and ''Godsend'' (23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== BBD - Boris The Bullet Dodger (15) ** ====
20m Natural - The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of ''Cold War''. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.
FA: Arno van der Heever & Willem Boshoff 17 February 2012

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of ''Power Struggle''. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of ''Power Struggle'' and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of ''Uncle Albert'' and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ** ====
Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between ''Rodney'' and ''Ayoba''.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
Starts as per ''Political Solution''. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
This route lies about midway between ''Power Struggle'' and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face of ''Ayoba''. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 15a - Creekers (15) ** ====
From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 15b Yellow Canary 20m (13) **** ====
Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing ''Creekers'' and finish up the layback crack to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen, 25/03/2012

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of ''Luvely Jubbly''.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of ''The Craving''.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Lions_Head_RD_April_2012.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

Power Struggle-Political Solution Area Photo:
1. ''Windy Block'' (14), 2. ''Name to Follow'' (15), 3. ''Feathered Delight'' (16), 4. ''Ayoba'' (22), 5. ''Political Solution'' (16).

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Fly Bye (19) *** ====
Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. 
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Swindled Swoon (22) *** ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== Bender Blender (22) **** ====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

====The Man Comes Around (20)====
The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.

FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11

==== Cash's King (27) ====

Starts 3-4m right of ''Mean Eyed Cat'' (about 1.5m right of the tip of the Geo-Cache Cave). The route diligently follows a fault from a left facing prow on the lip, all the way to the fault's termination at the top of the crag. Climb through the first roof, then head straight up beneath a larger roof above. Reach through this to some good holds in a rail above, about 1m left of the end of that roof. Stand up on the lip and continue following the fault to the top. This route is very height dependant, and is most likely impossible for anyone shorter than 185cm. 
Note: A 0.5 Camalot or equivalent is useful for the rail over the second roof. 
FA: W. Gans 09/06/2012 

==== Cash Connection (19) **** ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== Grit-Slide (24R) *** ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

== ====White Face Sector====

----

'''Duly Noted, (17)'''
Pitch 1: 15m, 17: 3m right of Wailing wall and 2m left of the main fault up White Face is a break running straight to a roof. Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2: 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of Wailing Wall. continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.

The route was opened as a single, long pitch.
FA: W Gans, 14/10/2012

Africa Ledge

2012-11-22T21:00:12Z

Q20:

=== '''COCK and Bull Buttress''' ===

This area is below and just left of Arrow Final (facing the mountain) . From the Tea Cave, walk back a short way along the path toward India Venster and you will find the buttress on the left.

[[Image:Cock and Bull Web size v1.JPG|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on the SW face]]

[[Image:Crankarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on East face]]

====''' Matador 25'''====

Start just left of ''Crank and Pull''. Climb the easy crack to the break. Using an undercling in the roof crank onto the steep face and slightly left to a rail. Continue up a steep layback to a wide rail and then fight straight up over the narrow roof onto the smooth face above.

'''FA:''' Richard Halsey, 16/02/2012

==='''Local Legend 24'''===

A hard and bouldery route that is serious to lead. It is named in honour of local legend David Davies.

'''Start:'''

The route is found on Africa Ledge, Table Mountain, and cuts through the zig-zags of Atlantic Crag. A couple of metres to the right of the Oddshouter’s Outing tea cave is the Ruminating Crag chimney. Immediately beyond the chimney is a pillar with an ugly brown crack and wall to its right. Local Legend commences a couple of metres further right in the centre of the white wall. Africa Link-Up starts in the same place and goes off to the right.

'''Pitch 1 30m 19:'''

Step off the large sloping block onto the centre of the left-facing wall. Ascend the face in the centre (tricky lead). At 15m reach a ledge then directly above ascend the right-facing wall finishing up its left edge to reach Upper Africa Ledge. Cross the ledge and scramble up 3m to stance on a big ledge one level below the overhanging white wall.

'''Pitch 2 12m 24:'''

Scramble up on the right to get to the overhanging recess. At this point the Atlantic Crag fourth pitch crack is 3m to the right. To the left is a massive undercut white wall. Ascend the recess trending rightwards, making use of the highest wired nut protection available. Turn the overhanging wall and with difficulty ascend the easier angled rock face above your last protection (crux). Head directly up easy ground to stance on the large ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 3 12m 22:'''

The face to the right is wildly undercut to start. Step up onto the microwave oven-sized block and clip the old piton. This pitch is an aid pitch on Little Jack Horner and the peg was placed in 1980. Stretch up to reach an edge with the left hand and a flat prong with the right. Crank hard to get up and ascend the difficult face towards the right. On easy ground head up and left and then right to a big ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 4 12m 18:'''

Head up broken ground to arrive at the big overhang above to the right of the hanging block. Rail out left on the block and then head up a crack to the ledge above. Walk rightwards to the end of the ledge.

'''Pitch 5 12m 20:'''

From the stance traverse to the right with hands at the level of the overhang to a bottomless recess. Pull into this recess. So far this is the famous crux of the classic Atlantic Crag. Now rail out wildly to the right to the dark and forbidding bottomless recess. Ascend this for 5m to a ledge. Continue up the steep wall ahead for another 4m to another blocky ledge and stance at the big detached flake.

Descent:

To abseil off the Africa Corner bolted anchors scramble up easy ground to the left for 25m. To finish at the cableway station scramble up to the right.

'''First ascent:'''

Hilton Davies, Neels Havenga and Andy Davies on 26 January 2011.

==='''Arms Race Direct 25'''===

Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.

'''Pitches 2 and 3:'''

Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.

'''First ascent:'''

Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010

==='''Flaky Dog 21 '''===

[[Image:Flaky_Dog_Upper_Africa_Ledge_Table_Mountain_V1.png|200px|thumb|right|'''Flaky Dog 21''']]

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

'''Start:''' The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

'''Pitch 1 25m 21:'''

Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

'''Pitch 2 30m 21:'''

Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

'''First ascent:''' C Edelstein February 2007

==='''Mad Dog 22'''===

“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the ''Africa Lunch'' second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.

'''Mad Dog 30m 22:'''

30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.

'''First Ascent 16 February 2007:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer. 

==='''Prowling 26'''===

A long, steep prow near the last pitches of ''Right Face'' and clearly visible from Tafelberg Rd near the Platteklip Gorge parking.

[[Image:Prowlingrd.JPG|250px|thumb|left|'''Prowling (26)''']]

'''Access''': From the upper cable station, walk towards Platteklip Gorge, passing two viewing areas with railings. Continue past the next lookout with a stone wall to the following lookout. From here scramble down to the top of the Africa Ampitheatre cliffs, and walk right (East) for about 50m on a ledge until you get to a drop-off above a gulley. There is an abseil point in situ overlooking the gulley, and a 40m abseil brings you to a ledge (abseiling directly above the prow will leave you hanging in space). Bring some screwgates and two 120cm slings to extend the anchor over edge so rope pulls easily. Walk about 10m back in the direction of the cable station to the base of the route.

'''Route''': 40m. Start under a short vertical crack and move up to a hand rail. Traverse a few meters left until you can pull up to a platform and walk left to below the prow. Use the crack and sidepulls to gain a good rail. Pull up about 1m to a horizontal slot (medium cam), where you move left across the arete, and continue up on the left to the next ledge. Step right and ascend up and slightly right to a good sidepull in the steep, grey scoop. Some hard moves straight up lead to a thin rail below a small roof. Use a sloper above the roof to move left and strenuously up to good holds. Up easily to the left of the diving board (wobbles). Finish out right over the void using a good rail and side pulls. 
Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey, J.Smith & D. Steyn 9/03/2012

'''FFA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 11/03/2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

Lion's Head

2012-06-15T10:46:52Z

Q20:

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===

==== Asteroid (23)====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== Lion Sedge (21)====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== Simbarama (22) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Feel Ion (23) ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== Night Puff (21) ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== Mane Course (26)====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== Pride Breaker (25) ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. Concensus grading needed . 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== Godsend (23) ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably easier if you are tall. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (26), ''Pride Breaker'' (25) and ''Godsend'' (23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== BBD - Boris The Bullet Dodger (15) ** ====
20m Natural - The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of ''Cold War''. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.
FA: Arno van der Heever & Willem Boshoff 17 February 2012

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of ''Power Struggle''. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of ''Power Struggle'' and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the ''Power Struggle'' platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of ''Uncle Albert'' and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ====
Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between ''Rodney'' and ''Ayoba''.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
Starts as per ''Political Solution''. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
This route lies about midway between ''Power Struggle'' and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face of ''Ayoba''. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 15a - Creekers (15) ====
From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 15b Yellow Canary 20m (13) **** ====
Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing ''Creekers'' and finish up the layback crack to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen, 25/03/2012

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of ''Luvely Jubbly''.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of ''The Craving''.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Lions_Head_RD_April_2012.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

Power Struggle-Political Solution Area Photo:
1. ''Windy Block'' (14), 2. ''Name to Follow'' (15), 3. ''Feathered Delight'' (16), 4. ''Ayoba'' (22), 5. ''Political Solution'' (16).

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Fly Bye (19) ====
Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. 
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Swindled Swoon (22) ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== Bender Blender (22)====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

==== Cash's King (27?) ====

Starts 3-4m right of ''Mean Eyed Cat'' (about 1.5m right of the tip of the Geo-Cache Cave). The route diligently follows a fault from a left facing prow on the lip, all the way to the fault's termination at the top of the crag. Climb through the first roof, then head straight up beneath a larger roof above. Reach through this to some good holds in a rail above, about 1m left of the end of that roof. Stand up on the lip and continue following the fault to the top. This route is very height dependant, and is most likely impossible for anyone shorter than 185cm, meaning the grade holds little value, however concensus would be most welcome. 
Note: A 0.5 Camalot or equivalent is useful for the rail over the second roof. 
FA: W. Gans 09/06/2012 

==== Cash Connection (19) ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== Grit-Slide (24R) ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

Waterval Boven

2012-05-15T11:19:36Z

Q20:

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

== The Waterval Boven Guide ==

This guide covers everything.

[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_May_2012.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated December 2011.]

== Add New Routes below: ==

'''Baboon Buttress'''

Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011

Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012

RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011

'''Hallucinogen Wall'''

ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012

Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones. Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack. Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack. Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ. Possibly easier if you are tall.
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.

Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010

'''Superbowl'''

Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.

The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.

== New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide ==

'''He-Man Area'''

These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing ''Cotapaxi'', walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.

*SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

*SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up ''Skeletor''. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.

'''God No! Wall'''

*THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top. FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.

Africa Ledge

2012-03-14T20:10:28Z

Q20:

=== '''COCK and Bull Buttress''' ===

[[Image:Cock and Bull Web size v1.JPG|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on the SW face]]

[[Image:Crankarea.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|Routes on East face]]

====''' Matador 25'''====

Start just left of ''Crank and Pull''. Climb the easy crack to the break. Using an undercling in the roof crank onto the steep face and slightly left to a rail. Continue up a steep layback to a wide rail and then fight straight up over the narrow roof onto the smooth face above.

'''FA:''' Richard Halsey, 16/02/2012

==='''Local Legend 24'''===

A hard and bouldery route that is serious to lead. It is named in honour of local legend David Davies.

'''Start:'''

The route is found on Africa Ledge, Table Mountain, and cuts through the zig-zags of Atlantic Crag. A couple of metres to the right of the Oddshouter’s Outing tea cave is the Ruminating Crag chimney. Immediately beyond the chimney is a pillar with an ugly brown crack and wall to its right. Local Legend commences a couple of metres further right in the centre of the white wall. Africa Link-Up starts in the same place and goes off to the right.

'''Pitch 1 30m 19:'''

Step off the large sloping block onto the centre of the left-facing wall. Ascend the face in the centre (tricky lead). At 15m reach a ledge then directly above ascend the right-facing wall finishing up its left edge to reach Upper Africa Ledge. Cross the ledge and scramble up 3m to stance on a big ledge one level below the overhanging white wall.

'''Pitch 2 12m 24:'''

Scramble up on the right to get to the overhanging recess. At this point the Atlantic Crag fourth pitch crack is 3m to the right. To the left is a massive undercut white wall. Ascend the recess trending rightwards, making use of the highest wired nut protection available. Turn the overhanging wall and with difficulty ascend the easier angled rock face above your last protection (crux). Head directly up easy ground to stance on the large ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 3 12m 22:'''

The face to the right is wildly undercut to start. Step up onto the microwave oven-sized block and clip the old piton. This pitch is an aid pitch on Little Jack Horner and the peg was placed in 1980. Stretch up to reach an edge with the left hand and a flat prong with the right. Crank hard to get up and ascend the difficult face towards the right. On easy ground head up and left and then right to a big ledge. This pitch is a serious lead.

'''Pitch 4 12m 18:'''

Head up broken ground to arrive at the big overhang above to the right of the hanging block. Rail out left on the block and then head up a crack to the ledge above. Walk rightwards to the end of the ledge.

'''Pitch 5 12m 20:'''

From the stance traverse to the right with hands at the level of the overhang to a bottomless recess. Pull into this recess. So far this is the famous crux of the classic Atlantic Crag. Now rail out wildly to the right to the dark and forbidding bottomless recess. Ascend this for 5m to a ledge. Continue up the steep wall ahead for another 4m to another blocky ledge and stance at the big detached flake.

Descent:

To abseil off the Africa Corner bolted anchors scramble up easy ground to the left for 25m. To finish at the cableway station scramble up to the right.

'''First ascent:'''

Hilton Davies, Neels Havenga and Andy Davies on 26 January 2011.

==='''Arms Race Direct 25'''===

Skips the grade 18 scramble to the start of the real first pitch and instead extends the crux pitch by adding a hard, direct start. Below and slightly right of the grade 23 crux pitch is a leftward-trending, thin layback crack starting just above a small roof split by a vertical crack. Start 5m below this roof.

'''Pitch 1 20m 25:'''

Scramble up to the roof. Place a bomber wire just around the lip and some small gear a bit higher, then pull through and into the layback crack. Continue up and into the overhanging groove that forms the crux pitch of the original route.

'''Pitches 2 and 3:'''

Next two pitches the same as for the original Arms Race.

'''First ascent:'''

Douw Steyn and Willem le Roux, December 2010

==='''Flaky Dog 21 '''===

[[Image:Flaky_Dog_Upper_Africa_Ledge_Table_Mountain_V1.png|200px|thumb|right|'''Flaky Dog 21''']]

Despite the lichen that plasters the second pitch of the climb, this route has the potential to become a classic if it is “climbed into condition”. It is a moderate 2 pitch route that involves classic sustained TM climbing on steep rock, with excellent protection.

'''Start:''' The route starts just to the right of the Africa Gullet crack on the upper Africa ledge.

'''Pitch 1 25m 21:'''

Climb the face just to the right of Gullet’s crack to a cruxy section. (One can cheat by straddling across Gullet’s crack). Pass this to a good rail. Rail right to steep juggy rock that leads you to a stance. Belay off the abseil bolts.

'''Pitch 2 30m 21:'''

Climb the “staggered crack” that diagonals up to the left to a grassy stance. Don’t stop here but rail easily left above Odd Shouters crux and then up to a stance. Continue wandering easily to the top back to the abseil anchors.

'''First ascent:''' C Edelstein February 2007

==='''Mad Dog 22'''===

“Mad Dog” is a direct variation of the ''Africa Lunch'' second pitch. It is easier as it avoids the pumpy lie back at the top of Lunch but has its moments particularly for the “on-sight” lead.

'''Mad Dog 30m 22:'''

30m 22: Climb the overhanging lie back crack of the start of the second pitch of Africa Lunch. At the second peg continue straight up past the next rail to where Africa lunch moves right. Continue straight up using some mentally challenging flakes into the easy groove that leads directly to the fixed peg and nut abseil point.

'''First Ascent 16 February 2007:''' Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer. 

==='''Prowling 26'''===

A long, steep prow near the last pitches of ''Right Face'' and clearly visible from Tafelberg Rd near the Platteklip Gorge parking.

[[Image:Prowlingrd.JPG|250px|thumb|left|'''Prowling (26)''']]

'''Access''': From the upper cable station, walk towards Platteklip Gorge, passing two viewing areas with railings. Continue past the next lookout with a stone wall to the following lookout. From here scramble down to the top of the Africa Ampitheatre cliffs, and walk right (East) for about 50m on a ledge until you get to a drop-off above a gulley. There is an abseil point in situ overlooking the gulley, and a 40m abseil brings you to a ledge (abseiling directly above the prow will leave you hanging in space). Walk about 10m back in the direction of the cable station to the base of the route.

'''Route''': 40m. Start under a short vertical crack and move up to a hand rail. Traverse a few meters left until you can pull up to a platform and walk left to below the prow. Use the crack and sidepulls to gain a good rail. Pull up about 1m to a horizontal slot, where you move left across the arete, and continue up to the next ledge. Ascend up and slightly right to a good sidepull in the steep, grey scoop. Some hard moves straight up lead to a thin rail below a small roof. Use a sloper above the roof to move left and strenuously up to good holds. Up easily to the left of the diving board (wobbles). Finish out right over the void using a good rail and side pulls. 
Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey, J.Smith & D. Steyn 9/03/2012

'''FFA''': R. Halsey & J. Möhle, 11/03/2012

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

File:Owlrd.jpg

2012-03-14T19:37:48Z

Q20:

File:Prowlingrd.JPG

2012-03-14T19:36:57Z

Q20:

Descent Gulley

2012-03-05T19:35:18Z

Q20:

Shy Zebra (23) ***

Climbs between the two black streaks on the wall just left of the ''Comes a Time'' wall. Start up some laybacks to the left of the gulley, for about 5m, until you can traverse left across the right-hand black streak. Pull up in between the black streaks and climb straight up to the top. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 10/02/2012

[[Image:Zebra1rd.jpg|250px]] 
Top section of ''Shy Zebra''

[[Category:Tafelberg]]

Lower Buttresses

2012-02-29T14:45:22Z

Q20:

==='''Fun Factory 24'''===
Venster Buttress, Table Mountain

About the steepest rock on the lower buttresses, at the far right of the Venster Buttress.
Start about 3m right of ''Pappadum'', directly under the apex of the roof system above. Has some wild moves and plenty of exposure.

'''Pitch 1 30m 20:'''

Climb up the face about 3m right of the featured arete, tending slightly right through a vague V-shaped recess (created by blocks on the prow) and then easily up to a stance about 5m below the roofs.

'''Pitch 2 20m 24:'''

Head up past a huge rectangular block and then rail about 2m right at the base of a roof until able to pull up into the corner. At the ceiling, traverse right over the void and pull up to next rail. Move further right and balance up to establish on a small platform. Finish up and slightly right to a ledge.

Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos, 26 Mar 2011

'''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
 

==='''Moonlight Direct 24'''===
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

'''Start:''' From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.

Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.

'''Pitch 1 30m 17:'''

Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.

'''Pitch 2 10m 23:'''

A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.

'''Pitch 3 30m 24:'''

Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.

'''Pitch 4 20m 24:'''

Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.

Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.

'''First ascent:''' Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010

==='''Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress'''===

Earlier ascents of this or similar lines have occurred but have not been written up. The route provides an nice straight line up steep rock. Unfortunatley while the second pitch provides fun climbing, the rock is rather vegitated. Hopefully more ascents will clean it up some what. The third pitch makes up for it, with great moves on an exposed wall.
Start in obvious recess 10m right of the start of Fraser’s Frontal.

'''Pitch 1 20m F2:'''

Starting at the wide crack, climb straight up clean rock, crossing two ledges to a stance beneath a roof, 4m left of the first stance on Fraser’s

'''Pitch 2 40m F3:'''

Climb up to the roof, passing it on the right. Climb approx. 10m up the (mossy) wall above to a ledge. Above & to the right is a small overhang capped by a nose. This nose can be passed on the either side but it’s more fun on the right. Climb diagonally right up the mossy wall until one reaches a prominent rail level with the 2nd stance of Frasers. Travers right to the same stance.

'''Pitch 3 35m G1/2:'''

Above is a shallow scoop running up the centre of the obviuos flat wall. A third of the way up the wall is a prominent arrow head flake (more solid than it looks !) Start beneath the flake, climbing diagonally leftward for about 5m before moving rightwards up to the flake. Climb onto the flake & then straight up the scoop above on small holds. Some small Camalots – around C3 # 0 – are very useful for this section. The wall is topped by a roof split by a hanging open book. Pull strenously up this to the top.

'''First ascent:'''

Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005

[[File:Lefthall-1.JPG]]
[[File:Lefthall-2.JPG]]

[[Category:Table Mountain]]

Spout

2012-02-29T14:05:55Z

Q20:

=== West face ===
[[Image:spout.jpg|450px]]

Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. 1. Bazooka Rodeo

==== Bazooka Rodeo (25) **** ====

Spout, West Face

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing.
Start about 15m right of ''Dogmatix'', below a pocketed roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (25)''' Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (18)''' Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (19)''' Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40m (20)''' Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30m (19)''' Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

*'''Pitch 6. 15m (20)''' Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

'''FA''': Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).

==== Aqua Spring (22) *** ====

Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. At the good rail where the rock above deteriorates in quality, rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m).

'''FA''': R. Halsey 31/12/11

[[Image:aqua.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Aqua Spring''

=== Ecstacy Wall ===

A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route ''Thumbelina''. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up ''The Central Route''. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.

==== Flaming Woozel (24/25) **** ====

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 12/11/2011

[[Image:woozel.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Flaming Woozel''

=== Solitaire ===

[[Image:solitaire.jpg|300px]]

Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. ''The Inventor'', 2. ''The Cynic'', 3. ''Go Go Gadget''

The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.

==== The Inventor (21) *** ====
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 6/11/11

==== The Cynic (18) ***(*) ====
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.

'''FA''': J. Möhle 6/11/11

==== Flying High (24) **** ====

Start just left of ''Go Go Gadget'' and climb straight up to the first ledge. Reach up to a hand rail, then straight up via gymnastic moves to and from the huge horizontal pocket (in the grey rock with an orange stripe coming down from its centre). Easily to top. Great climbing, pity about the ledge. Consensus grading needed.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 12/02/2012

==== Go Go Gadget (23) **** ====
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey 7/11/11

==== Any Takers? (16) *** ====

This is an obvious line that has probably been climbed before but not recorded. It has good, easy climbing and is recorded for completion.

Scramble up a large boulder about 5m left of ''Pinstripe Sweet''. Step onto the face and follow the wide crack, layback and flake to the top.

U. Pitsch & R. Halsey 12/02/2012

====Pinstripe Sweet (23) ***====

Start about 2m left of ''Solitare''. Climb a blunt arete to a ledge. Follow the thin black water streak with some committing moves above the ledge. About half way up the streak you need to make a move left and up for 1m to a thin crack on a flake, before moving right again. At the next ledge move slightly right to a vague corner and then easily to the top.

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 29/01/2012

[[Category:Tafelberg]]

Black Ice Area

2012-02-29T13:10:58Z

Q20:

[[Image:Ghost1rd.jpg|350px]] 

=== Ghost Rider (24) *** ===

Features a committing rising traverse and a grand finale through the roof.

Scramble up the left side of the large block left of ''Lord Foul's Bane''. Pull onto the steep face and slightly left to a vertical crack (on the left side of a small roof). Move up to a depression where you can more or less stand. Fiddle in some small gear and then make a scary traverse left on a good edge with sloping foot holds. Pull up to the next rail, traverse another meter or so left and pull up to another rail. Continue left on a good foot ledge until it terminates.Long slings useful on the traverse. At this point there is a large roof above and to the left. Make a bold move up to the large under cling, move left over the roof using a projecting block, and then slightly left and up to a rail below the final roof. Crank and mantle over the roof and then easily up and left to belay at the left side of the large cave.

(Technically only about grade 22, but the route grade takes into account the overall difficultly and run-out nature of some sections)

'''FA''': R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 13/02/2012

[[File:Tafelberg South Wall Blue Planet Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector.|Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Yellow = Spice Dice]]

=== Spice Dice (22) ***** ===

Black Ice Area, Tafelberg

A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.

*'''Pitch 1. 50 m (22)''' Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

=== Diced Ice (22) ***** ===

Black Ice Area, Tafelberg

Below the Black Ice route is a trapezoid (triangle with a flat top) shaped roof. Start on the left side of this.

*'''Pitch 1. 50 m (22)''' Climb up 2m to the wide rail under the roof (a friend size 4 or bigger is useful, but not essential), move out leftwards around the corner and continue railing for about 2 meters (strenuous), before thin feet allow you to climb onto the narrow ledge. Alternatively, do a harder (a grade or two) move in the recess at the start of the narrow ledge. From the ledge, continue for about 15m at grade 19 up to a tiny triangular belay ledge just up and right from a small right-facing red corner.
*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (19)''' Continue climbing straight up, doing a stretchy move for a good hold to get through the blank rock band, and continue upwards aiming for the rightward trending layback flake just next to the abseil point.

'''FA''': Uwe Pitsch, Robert Zipplies, 1 January 2012.

[[Category:Tafelberg]]

File:Zebra1rd.jpg

2012-02-23T10:53:48Z

Q20:

File:Ghost1rd.jpg

2012-02-23T10:52:19Z

Q20:

Africa Ledge

2012-02-16T08:09:17Z

Q20:

File:Crankarea.jpg

2012-02-16T07:42:31Z

Q20:

File:Nohorizonmed.jpg

2012-02-06T21:35:55Z

Q20:

Lion's Head

2012-02-05T22:05:56Z

Q20: /* Lion's Head Sandstone */

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Note that some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope, always put a knot in the end of the rope). A visiting Scottish climber lost his life due to this aspect. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness /23 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Teatime is Over 7a/24 1B
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
FA: R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
 Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches 

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===
 
==== ''Asteroid'' (23)====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== ''Lion Sedge'' (21)====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== ''Simbarama'' (22) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== '' Feel Ion'' (23) ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== ''Night Puff'' (21) ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== ''Mane Course'' (25/26)====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== ''Pride Breaker '' (24/25) ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. Concensus grading needed . 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== ''Godsend'' (22/23) ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably harder if you are short. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (25/26), ''Pride Breaker'' (24/25) and ''Godsend''(22/23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Updated route list as of 14/11/2011. Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of Uncle Albert and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ====
Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between Rodney and Ayoba.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer, Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 15A - Creekers (15) ====
From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. 
FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of Luvely Jubbly.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of The Craving.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Power struggle nov 2011.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

==== Political Solution (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== Ayoba (22) ====
20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION.
After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Feathered Delight (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== {Name to follow} (15) ====
20m Natural [Photo 2] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Windy Block (14) ====
20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov.
{Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Fly Bye (19) ====
Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. 
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== ''Swindled Swoon'' (22) ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== ''Bender Blender'' (22)====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

==== ''Cash Connection'' (19) ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

Tafelberg

2012-01-09T15:45:48Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

= Logistics =

The best information is in the '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' guide book by ''Tony Lourens'', available from most climbing shops.

Just about the best trad climbing around!

= Ethics =

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. '''No bolting is allowed at all'''.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

=New Routes=

== Main Wall ==

[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Maidens Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Orange = Make Tea Not War Magenta = Danger Shrew Red = Dithering Heights]]

[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Frontal Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Red = Dithering Heights Blue = The Swan Green = Stargate Yellow = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe Cyan = Vuvuzela]]
 

[[File:mainwallright2.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). 40, Lime = Boombox]]

=== Amarula (23) **** ===

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)

*'''Pitch 1. 25m 19''' Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge. Stance 3m left
*'''Pitch 2. 30m 23''' An undercut start off of two big horns (big pull) Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and hand-jam up the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right to find a long crimp, and use either an undercling above and/or a finger pocket on the left to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
*''' Pitch 3 25m 21''' Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
*'''Pitch 4. 50m 18''' Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

A line between Mothers and Cosy Corner. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great, but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (17)''' Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
*'''Pitch 2. 45 m (20)''' Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.

*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (17)''' The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (18)''' Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)

=== Danger Shrew (24) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (24)''' Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.

*'''Pitch 2. 55 m (21)''' Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.

*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (19)''' In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)

=== Dithering Heights (25) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (21)''' From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (25)''' The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (18)''' Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (18)''' Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (21)''' Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2011)

=== The Swan (24) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left). Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.

*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (24)''' From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge. Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.

*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (23)''' Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 25 m (20)''' Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (21)''' 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.

'''FA''': Adam Roff, Douw Steyn, Gosia Lipinska (Pitches 1 & 2) (2010)

=== Stargate (20) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.

*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (18)''' From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (20)''' Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

=== Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe (24) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (21)''' Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (23)''' Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse". Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.

*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (24)''' Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40 m (21)''' Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.

*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (23)''' Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

'''FA''': Adam Roff, Francie Buhrmann, Gosia Lipinska (2008) 
'''FFA''': Gosia Lipinska, Douw Steyn, Willem le Roux (2009)

=== Vuvuzela (23) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.

*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (20)''' Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).

*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (19)''' Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (23)''' Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.

*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (22)''' Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.

'''FA''': Adam Roff and Francie Buhrmann (2008) FFA of Pitch 5: Douw Steyn and Ant Hall (2009)

=== Boombox (24) ***(*) ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of ''Boomerang Direct''. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of ''Boomerang'' begins.

*'''Pitch 1. 10 m (17)''' Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m).

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (21)''' Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it.

*'''Pitch 3. 25m (17)''' Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right hand side of the roof at big upside down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (24)''' This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meter higher at the base of a wide, left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade.

*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (17)''' Climb the arched crack to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Uwe Pitsch (Oct 2011). FFA of Pitch 4: Richard Halsey.

== Black Ice Area ==

[[File:Tafelberg South Wall Blue Planet Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector.|Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Yellow = Spice Dice]]

=== Spice Dice (22) ***** ===

Black Ice Area, Tafelberg

A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.

*'''Pitch 1. 50 m (22)''' Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

== Big Groove Sector ==

[[Image:groove.jpg|250px]]

Tafelberg, Big Groove sector. 1. Groove Amandla

=== Groove Amandla (26) **** ===

Big Groove Sector

Amandla! Great stuff. Start about 20m right of ''Big Groove P1'', on some boulders below an obvious V in the roof above.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (26)''' The Bugger pitch. Climb the left tending crack to a triangular platform. Move up to the roof and fight your way through the V-shaped break. Climb a few meters further to the blocky ledge and stance several meters left below the two cracks about 1.5m apart.

*'''Pitch 2. 35 m (25)''' The Super pitch. Climb the two left tending cracks each side of a rib to a small roof. Crank through the bulge on the left side of the roof (crux) and up, to gain a narrow ledge with a half-moon shaped feature in the middle. More tricky moves on the short face to the left of the half moon lead you to a large layback flake and crack system above. Stance in a corner below a triangular roof.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (18)''' The Victory lap. Traverse right and slightly up to the huge flake feature on the right of the wall. Climb up this and the interesting shapes above until you can traverse right below a large rectangular block. Move up and left to exit via a chimney to the top.

Note: Two micro cams (black alien or equivalent) are useful, one to protect each of the crux sections on pitch 2. If you are not up to the challenge of pitch 1, or don't what to be completely exhausted for the rest of the route, you can access the excellent second pitch from ''Big Groove''.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Joe Möhle (Nov 2011).

== Spout ==

=== West face ===
[[Image:spout.jpg|450px]]

Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. 1. Bazooka Rodeo

==== Bazooka Rodeo (25) **** ====

Spout, West Face

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing.
Start about 15m right of ''Dogmatix'', below a pocketed roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (25)''' Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (18)''' Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (19)''' Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40m (20)''' Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30m (19)''' Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

*'''Pitch 6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

'''FA''': Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).

==== Aqua Spring (22) *** ====

Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. At the good rail where the rock above deteriorates in quality, rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m).

FA: R. Halsey 31/12/11

[[Image:aqua.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Aqua Spring''

=== Ecstacy Wall ===

A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route ''Thumbelina''. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up ''The Central Route''. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.

==== Flaming Woozel (24/25) **** ====

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

[[Image:woozel.jpg|250px]]
 1. ''Flaming Woozel''

FA: R. Halsey 12/11/2011

=== Solitaire ===

[[Image:solitaire.jpg|300px]]

Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. ''The Inventor'', 2. ''The Cynic'', 3. ''Go Go Gadget''

The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.

==== The Inventor (21) *** ====
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.

FA: R. Halsey 6/11/11

==== The Cynic (18) ***(*) ====
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.

FA J. Möhle 6/11/11

==== Go Go Gadget (23) **** ====
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.

FA: R. Halsey 7/11/11

== Pillar Box ==

=== Painted Desert (26) **** ===
Climb the aesthetic line between '' Time Stone'' and '' Woodro''. Start up a small recess and step right. Use small layback edges to reach a thin rail where you move about 1m right and climb straight up where the orange rock on the left meets the grey rock on the right. A tiny cam (black alien or equivalent) is useful to protect the lower crux, while a large wingspan is handy - for the top crux in particular.

R. Halsey 10/12/11

=== The Amber Phantom (24) *** ===
Climb the face between ''The Edge of Time'' and ''Serenity, Tranquility, Peace''. Start up the first few moves on the arete, but then move right and up into a dark brown recess. Climb straight up the blank face above on edges to a good hand rail, where you move slightly right. Pull up to the next rail and then straight up to the top.

R. Halsey 30/12/11

[[Image:pillarbox.jpg|680px]]
 1. ''Painted Desert'', 2. ''The Amber Phantom''. Flanking routes are indicated with hatched lines.

== Apathy Wall ==
[[Image:apathy.jpg|680px]]

Apathy wall. 12. Mucho Gusto 13. Shack Shake

Some new route variations:

=== Mucho Gusto (23) *** ===
Climb the 'Africa Shield', move right under the roof, and up the crack on Gusto. Then do the 'Metolius move' left and across the face, up the small corner on Gusto to a narrow ledge. Traverse left at the rail until the blunt arete, and straight up to the top.

R. Halsey 23/10/2011

=== Shack Shake (21) *** ===
Step off the boulder onto the face and climb directly to the Hackaroo layback, then straight up a crack to a small roof. Reach right to another crack, pull up and tend right up a vague corner. Straight to top.

R. Halsey 22/10/2011

 Two easy but fun routes on a short face perpendicular and about 30m right of the Apathy wall.
 Either rap from a good mushroom to the right of ''Sundial'', or scramble down opposite ''Arete route''.

[[Image:hour.jpg|200px]]

1. Hourglass 2. Sundial

*Hourglass (17) ** R. Halsey 23/10/2011
*Sundial (15) ** U. Pitsch 23/10/2011

File:Woozel.jpg

2012-01-09T14:46:13Z

Q20:

File:Pillarbox.jpg

2012-01-09T14:44:31Z

Q20:

File:Aqua.jpg

2012-01-09T14:43:37Z

Q20:

Lion's Head

2011-11-23T09:02:44Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

=General info=

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is [[Lion's Head Granite|Granite]] and the other is [[Lion's Head Sandstone|Sandstone]]. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

== Guide book ==
'''A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head''', David Mercer, 2008.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

== Food and accommodation ==
Nothing there mate.

== Notes ==
Note that some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope, always put a knot in the end of the rope). A visiting Scottish climber lost his life due to this aspect. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

= Lion's Head Granite =

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

== Notes ==
Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

== Routes ==

Popular routes:

*Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
*Millions /19 Natural
*Heart of Darkness /23 Natural
*Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
*Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
*Scratch /17 Natural
*De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
*Teatime is Over 7a/24 1B
*Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
*Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
*Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
*Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

=== New routes ===

* ''Raincheck'' 15 R/X (N) 
Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance.
(I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.)
Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro. 
FA: R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010 

*''Itch Factor'' 19R (N) 

The blunt arete between ''Tea-Trolley Crack'' and ''Daylight Robbery''. 
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top. 
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010 

*''White Knuckle Wafer'' 19R (N) 

Start a few meters right of ''Knuckleduster''. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious. 
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010 

==== Encore Boulder ====
 Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches 

*''On Cord'' 16 (N) 
A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers). 
R. Halsey 29/3/2011 

= Lion's Head Sandstone =
The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

== Getting there ==
Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

== New Routes ==

=== Clifton Sector ===
 
==== ''Asteroid'' (23)====

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. 
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011 

==== ''Lion Sedge'' (21)====

Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. 
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

==== ''Simbarama'' (22) ====

Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. 
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== '' Feel Ion'' (23) ====

Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. 
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

==== ''Night Puff'' (21) ====

Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. 
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011 

[[Image:Simbarama2.jpg|350px]] 
From left: ''Simbarama'' (22), ''Feel Ion'' (23) and ''Night Puff'' (21) 
Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.

==== ''Mane Course'' (25/26)====

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. 
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed. 

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

==== ''Pride Breaker '' (24/25) ====

Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''. 
Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. Concensus grading needed . 

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

==== ''Godsend'' (22/23) ====

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. 
Start about 3m right of ''Pride Breaker'' and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably harder if you are short. 

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

[[Image:mane.jpg|400px]] 
From left: ''Mane Course'' (25/26), ''Pride Breaker'' (24/25) and ''Godsend''(22/23). 
Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

=== Power Struggle Area ===

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres.
(Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Updated route list as of 14/11/2011. Routes are described from left to right.

==== 1 - Heatwave 25m (12) ** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

==== 2 - Cold War (16) ====
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

==== 3 - Power Struggle (23) ====
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 4 - Kalashnikov (18) ====
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

==== 5 - Heavy Breather 25m (16) *** ====
FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

==== 6 - Windy Block 20m (14) ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 7 - Name to Come 20m (15) *** ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 8 - The Inspirer 20m (16) *** ====
Start at a grey easy looking face.
Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top.
FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

==== 9 - Feathered Delight 20m (16) *** ====
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== 10 - Uncle Albert 20m (15) *** ====
Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it.
A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top.
FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

==== 11 - Rodney 20m (16) *** ====
Start just around the corner to the right of Uncle Albert and to the left of a flakey crack.
A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow.
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

==== 12 - Silke 25m (12) ** ====
Start to the right of a block roughly midway between Rodney and Ayoba.
Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top.
FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

==== 13 - Ayoba 20m (22) ====
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== 14 - Political Solution 20m (16) ====
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer, Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== 15 - Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) **** ====
Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution.
Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route!
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

==== 16 - The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of Luvely Jubbly.
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
Great route!
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

==== 17 - Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
Start up the next break to the right of The Craving.
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

[[Image:Power struggle nov 2011.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]

[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]

==== Political Solution (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

==== Ayoba (22) ====
20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION.
After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
Follow the thin crack to the top.
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Feathered Delight (16) ====
20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

==== {Name to follow} (15) ====
20m Natural [Photo 2] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

==== Windy Block (14) ====
20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov.
{Detailed Description to Follow}
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

=== Geo-Cache Sector ===

==== Superstition (22R) ====
A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
 NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
 FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Felix (19)====
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== Scratch Pole (15)====
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

==== ''Swindled Swoon'' (22) ====

Start halfway between ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11

[[Image:sswoon.jpg|200px]] 
''Swindled Swoon'' (22) 

==== ''Bender Blender'' (22)====
The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. 
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011 

[[Image:bender.jpg|200px]] 
''Bender Blender'' (22) .

==== ''Cash Connection'' (19) ====

Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. 
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011 

==== ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) ====

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. 
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence. 
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011 

[[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]] 
''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) .

File:Sswoon.jpg

2011-11-23T07:48:16Z

Q20:

File:Mane.jpg

2011-11-23T07:47:27Z

Q20:

Tafelberg

2011-11-18T13:46:55Z

Q20:

= Logistics =

The best information is in the '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' guide book by ''Tony Lourens'', available from most climbing shops.

Just about the best trad climbing around!

= Ethics =

Tafelberg is a pure trad area. '''No bolting is allowed at all'''.

There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.

=New Routes=

== Main Wall ==

[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Maidens Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Orange = Make Tea Not War Magenta = Danger Shrew Red = Dithering Heights]]

[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Frontal Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Red = Dithering Heights Blue = The Swan Green = Stargate Yellow = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe Cyan = Vuvuzela]]
 

[[File:mainwallright2.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). 40, Lime = Boombox]]

=== Amarula (23) **** ===

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)

*'''Pitch 1. 25m 19''' Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge. Stance 3m left
*'''Pitch 2. 30m 23''' An undercut start off of two big horns (big pull) Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and hand-jam up the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right to find a long crimp, and use either an undercling above and/or a finger pocket on the left to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
*''' Pitch 3 25m 21''' Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
*'''Pitch 4. 50m 18''' Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

A line between Mothers and Cosy Corner. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great, but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (17)''' Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
*'''Pitch 2. 45 m (20)''' Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.

*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (17)''' The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (18)''' Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)

=== Danger Shrew (24) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (24)''' Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.

*'''Pitch 2. 55 m (21)''' Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.

*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (19)''' In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)

=== Dithering Heights (25) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (21)''' From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (25)''' The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (18)''' Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (18)''' Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (21)''' Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2011)

=== The Swan (24) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left). Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.

*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (24)''' From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge. Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.

*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (23)''' Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 25 m (20)''' Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (21)''' 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.

'''FA''': Adam Roff, Douw Steyn, Gosia Lipinska (Pitches 1 & 2) (2010)

=== Stargate (20) **** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.

*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (18)''' From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (20)''' Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

=== Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe (24) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (21)''' Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (23)''' Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse". Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.

*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (24)''' Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40 m (21)''' Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.

*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (23)''' Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

'''FA''': Adam Roff, Francie Buhrmann, Gosia Lipinska (2008) 
'''FFA''': Gosia Lipinska, Douw Steyn, Willem le Roux (2009)

=== Vuvuzela (23) ***** ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.

*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (20)''' Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).

*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (19)''' Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)

*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (23)''' Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.

*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (22)''' Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.

'''FA''': Adam Roff and Francie Buhrmann (2008) FFA of Pitch 5: Douw Steyn and Ant Hall (2009)

=== Boombox (24) ***(*) ===

Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of ''Boomerang Direct''. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of ''Boomerang'' begins.

*'''Pitch 1. 10 m (17)''' Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m).

*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (21)''' Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it.

*'''Pitch 3. 25m (17)''' Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right hand side of the roof at big upside down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (24)''' This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meter higher at the base of a wide, left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade.

*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (17)''' Climb the arched crack to the top.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Uwe Pitsch (Oct 2011). FFA of Pitch 4: Richard Halsey.

== Black Ice Area ==

[[File:Tafelberg South Wall Blue Planet Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector.|Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). Yellow = Spice Dice]]

=== Spice Dice (22) ***** ===

Black Ice Area, Tafelberg

A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.

*'''Pitch 1. 50 m (22)''' Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

== Big Groove Sector ==

[[Image:groove.jpg|250px]]

Tafelberg, Big Groove sector. 1. Groove Amandla

=== Groove Amandla (26) **** ===

Big Groove Sector

Amandla! Great stuff. Start about 20m right of ''Big Groove P1'', on some boulders below an obvious V in the roof above.

*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (26)''' The Bugger pitch. Climb the left tending crack to a triangular platform. Move up to the roof and fight your way through the V-shaped break. Climb a few meters further to the blocky ledge and stance several meters left below the two cracks about 1.5m apart.

*'''Pitch 2. 35 m (25)''' The Super pitch. Climb the two left tending cracks each side of a rib to a small roof. Crank through the bulge on the left side of the roof (crux) and up, to gain a narrow ledge with a half-moon shaped feature in the middle. More tricky moves on the short face to the left of the half moon lead you to a large layback flake and crack system above. Stance in a corner below a triangular roof.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (18)''' The Victory lap. Traverse right and slightly up to the huge flake feature on the right of the wall. Climb up this and the interesting shapes above until you can traverse right below a large rectangular block. Move up and left to exit via a chimney to the top.

Note: Two micro cams (black alien or equivalent) are useful, one to protect each of the crux sections on pitch 2. If you are not up to the challenge of pitch 1, or don't what to be completely exhausted for the rest of the route, you can access the excellent second pitch from ''Big Groove''.

'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Joe Möhle (Nov 2011).

== Spout ==

=== West face ===
[[Image:spout.jpg|450px]]

Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. 1. Bazooka Rodeo

==== Bazooka Rodeo (25) **** ====

Spout, West Face

A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing.
Start about 15m right of ''Dogmatix'', below a pocketed roof.

*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (25)''' Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.

*'''Pitch 2. 10m (18)''' Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.

*'''Pitch 3. 15m (19)''' Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.

*'''Pitch 4. 40m (20)''' Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.

*'''Pitch 5. 30m (19)''' Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.

*'''Pitch 6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.

'''FA''': Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).

=== Ecstacy Wall ===

A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route ''Thumbelina''. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up ''The Central Route''. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.

==== Flaming Woozel (24/25) **** ====

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

FA: R. Halsey 12/11/2011

=== Solitaire ===

[[Image:solitaire.jpg|300px]]

Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. The Inventor, 2. The Cynic, 3. Go Go Gadget

The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.

==== The Inventor (21)*** ====
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.

FA: R. Halsey 6/11/11

==== The Cynic (18)***(*) ====
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.

FA J. Möhle 6/11/11

==== Go Go Gadget (23)**** ====
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crack onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.

FA: R. Halsey 7/11/11

== Apathy Wall ==
[[Image:apathy.jpg|680px]]

Apathy wall. 12. Mucho Gusto 13. Shack Shake

Some new route variations:

=== Mucho Gusto (23)*** ===
Climb the 'Africa Shield', move right under the roof, and up the crack on Gusto. Then do the 'Metolius move' left and across the face, up the small corner on Gusto to a narrow ledge. Traverse left at the rail until the blunt arete, and straight up to the top.

R. Halsey 23/10/2011

=== Shack Shake (21)*** ===
Step off the boulder onto the face and climb directly to the Hackaroo layback, then straight up a crack to a small roof. Reach right to another crack, pull up and tend right up a vague corner. Straight to top.

R. Halsey 22/10/2011

 Two easy but fun routes on a short face perpendicular and about 30m right of the Apathy wall.
 Either rap from a good mushroom to the right of ''Sundial'', or scramble down opposite ''Arete route''.

[[Image:hour.jpg|200px]]

1. Hourglass 2. Sundial

*Hourglass** (17) R. Halsey 23/10/2011
*Sundial** (15) U. Pitsch 23/10/2011

Tafelberg

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