South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Sanddrif

2013-01-03T11:20:49Z

Scott:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -32.488172
| Longitude = 19.267398
| Climbing Type = Trad and Sport
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Cederberg

}}

= How to get there =
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, then take the N7 turnoff towards Malmesbury. Stay on this road past Piketberg and over the mountain pass. About 25 minutes past Citrusdal, take the Cedarberg; Algeria turnoff. Follow this dirt road (past Algeria campsite) for another +- 33 Kms until you get to Dwarsrivier farm. (normally about a 45 minute drive).

= Fees & Permits =
Contact details for Sanddrif Campsite:
* Tel: +27 (0)27 482 2825
* Fax: +27 (0)27 482 1188
* Email: [mailto:sanddrif@cederbergwine.com sanddrif@cederbergwine.com]
* Web: [http://www.cederbergwine.com www.cederbergwine.com]

You must obtain a permit to go up to the cracks area. You can obtain a permit at the Sanddrif reception desk (you need one if you are going walking as well) or you can contact MCSA in Cape Town.

= Accommodation & Food =
The last big town you pass is Citrusdal, this town or the petrol station (100 meters after the turnoff to Citrusdal) is the last place to grab any supplies. Camping at Wolfberg (Sanddrif Campsite) is extremely pleasant, with a big green field for tents. There are fireplaces and hot showers/toilet facilities. Cottages are available, sleep six people and supply the following: Basic cooking utensils, eating crockery/cutlery, fridge with a small freezer, beds (no bedding). The area does get visited a lot so you should definitely book before going out (especially holidays). You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip.
As this is a wine farm, excellent wine is available by the bottle or case (this can lead to late starts however!)

Stay at Sanddrif Campsite. The owners stay at Dwarsrivier Farm, just up the road.
A small selection of food is available and excellent selection of wine can be bought at the reception office. Fire wood is also available.
[http://cederbergwine.com/sanddrif| Click here for Sanddrif / Wolfberg Accommodation]

= Attractions & Activities =
Superb quality Trad climbing on hard sandstone, gear placements are solid. Multi Pitch Trad Routes on stunning rocks and a sport crag at the base. The drive is +/- 2½ hours drive from Cape Town up the N7 highway and the a 45 minute drive on a dirt road. A 45min walk gets you to the base of the climbing.
There is good bouldering in the Valley of the Gods. There are many places to go for a swim, one of the best spots however is Malgat.

The Rock is Superb quality Sandstone. The climbing is multi pitch using Trad gear. The routes are typically between four and seven pitches long. The rock is awesome compact sandstone with great friction. Once you have summitted, you will need to walk back down (you may also have to jump a small crevasse :). The walk up to the climbing area can be anything from 20 to 60 minutes depending. Ask at Reception where the path starts (very straightforward). Some of the routes offer an awesome amount of exposure (suck it up while you can). Grades vary from 3/10 - 7a+/25.

At the bottom of the mountain is a sport crag called [http://www.climb.co.za/wiki/index.php?title=Sanddrif 'Sanddrif'] there are a number of bolted routes there.

= Map =

= Routes =

Sanddrif Crag has some great easier (up to grade 22/23) routes - its a five star climbing venue!

From the last route in Western Cape Rock guide on the left of the crag "impaled on the wall" go left 5 meters 
Starting in the chimney crack is Bananarama 6 bolts grade (18) 
Ayoba.....for Petes sake (21) First three bolts of Bananarama then step left and follow bolts to the top of wall 
Venus (20) 7 bolts 
Way left about 18 meters is Monkey Love 5 bolts (16) 
A further 3 meters to the left is Milo Monkey 5 bolts (17) 
 
From the last route in Western Cape Rock guide on the right of the crag go right 5 meters 
Finding Neo 9 bolts (23)
 

= Weeds Area =
* Pixie Dust (15) Scott Miller 2012 (not on topo below, 3 meters right of information superhighway)
* Information Superhighway (15) Scott Miller 2011
* MILF (21) Scott Miller 2011
* Arachniphobia (22) Adnan Awad 2011
* U-turn (16) Justin Lawson 2011
* Lunatic Fringe (20) Scott Miller 2012 (not on topo below, about 5 meters left of U-turn)
* The Gruffalo (18) Scott Miller 2011

[[File:sandriff_2011_december.jpg]]

[[File:sanddrif_2760.jpg| The path starts about 10 meters after this sign, follow the cairns to the crag]]

[[File:sanddrif_2761.jpg]]

[[File:sanddrif_2721.jpg]]

[[File:sanddrif_2744.jpg]]

[[Category:Wolfberg]]

The Mine

2012-09-10T18:49:57Z

Scott:

{{Infobox Crag
| Latitude = -34.092628
| Longitude = 18.4408
| Climbing Type = Sport
| Gradient = Overhanging
| Walkin = 20 minutes uphill
| Aspect = Afternoon shade
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Cape Town
}}

The Mine is one of the most popular sport crags in the Cape Peninsula. The rock is a hard sandstone with most routes involving at least one or two overhangs. Holds are generally small and you will need some good finger strength here. The view from the crag is wonderful and there is plenty of space to roam around at the bottom of the crag. The crag generally dries out quickly after rain (in one or two days). If it is not too hot, all day climbing is not a problem here. Be sure to make a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are more than 25m long.

= How to get there =
To get to the Mine, drive up Ou Kaapse Weg from the Cape Town side and take the first turnoff to the left (after a few hundered metres). Park at the next turnoff to the right and walk up to the badly eroded dirt rode (15 minutes) and then take the path to the left which leads to the crag.

'''Be careful when parking there''' though, recently cars parked there have been broken in to. If you have a 4x4-type vehicle it might be better to drive farther up that dirt road. Alternatively it has been suggested that you park at the entrance of the naval base and endure the longer walk (about 500m). [http://climbing.co.za/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=643 See Climb ZA Thread]

= Topo =
[[Image:The_mine_far.JPG|center|Photo of The Mine crag, taken from the approach dirt road.]]

= Route List =

Routes are listed from left to right.

===Far Left Sector===

There are a couple of routes several hundred metres to the left of the main crag:
* '''Frank''' 31 David Pothier 1994
* '''Curt''' 28 BB Jimbo Smith and Jeremy Samson FA Jimbo Smith 2012 (branch left at third bolt on Frank, climb past 2 more bolts to a ledge, down climb to clean)
* '''The Highwayman''' 22 Kirsti Donald 1994

===Left Sector===

* '''Whispering Winds''' 21 J T Forbes 1997
* '''Trade Winds''' 20 John Alexander 1992
* '''30 Something''' 25 John Alexander 1992
* '''King Freddie''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1992
* '''Locomotion''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1992
* '''Shut Up and Climb''' 26 Jeremy Colenso 1992
* '''Fantasia''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Diabolo''' 26 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to Lambada, starting on the lower level
* '''Lambada''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Touché Pussycat''' 23 Pete Becker 1993 An alternate start to Quillerimo, starting on the lower level
* '''Quillerimo''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991
* '''Bolero''' 27 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Puffadder''' 22 Douglas Ward 1991
* '''Grand Illusion''' 19 Arno Purves 1991

===Middle Sector===

* '''Pink Harmonica''' 19 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003 Climb the first half of ''A Song Named Desire'' to the chains at the base of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall.
* '''A Song Named Desire''' 24 Keith Forbes 2004 An extension to ''Pink Harmonica'' that goes to the top of the ''Red Guitar'' Wall. Stay off the slab to the left.
* '''Red Guitar on Fire''' 25 Guy Hollwill 1991 A classic! This route has been rebolted by the Anchor Replacement Fund.
* '''The Scenic Route''' 28 Jeremy Colenso 1993 An add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head left after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''The Happy Hooker''' 27 Paul Schlodtfeldt 1992
* '''69ing Your Saucy Secretary''' 28 Andrew Davies 1992 Another add-on to ''Happy Hooker''. Head right after ''Happy Hooker''.
* '''Jimmy and the Big Boys''' 24 Graham and Tim Shillington 1994 Name inspired by the TV show Married with Children
* '''Sickle Moon''' 22 Malcom Gowans 1994 This route has been rebolted by the Anchor Replacement Fund.
* '''Chocolate Mousse''' 30 Sean Maasch 1995
* '''All Mine''' 22 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Airbag''' 21 Scott Miller Dec 2004
* '''Kool Sans the Gang''' 23 Guy Hollwill 1997 ''Kool and the Gang'' was an artificial route with two plastic holds bolted into the roof. Public outcry led to the holds being removed. Brown spraypaint can still be seen in the roof where the plastic holds were. ''Kool Sans the Gang'' ends at the base of this roof.
* '''YEBO!''' 18 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Paff Udder''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 2004 Extension to ''Yebo''. Goes right of ''Kool Sans the Gang'' but uses the same anchors.
* '''Saddam's Bad Hair Day''' 21 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Revenge of the Paas Haasie''' 20 Scott Miller and Naureen Goheer 2003
* '''Bin Ha''' 23 Scott Miller Dec 2004

===Right Sector===

* '''Too Pumped to Come''' 26 Sean Maasch 1994
* '''All that Glitters is Gold''' 27 Guy Hollwill 1991 Start up ''Swan Lake'' then keep going straight up to the top of the wall. Less popular than ''Swan Lake'', which heads right near the top.
* '''Swan Lake''' 25 Jeremy Colenso 1991 Finishes at the ''Gift of Wings'' chains.
* '''A Gift of Wings''' 28 Guy Hollwill 1991 A classic!
* '''Mono''' 28 Adrian Kohler 1993 Start up ''Gift of Wings'' then go rightwards through the big cavity in the roof.
* '''Green Peas''' 30 Jeremy Colenso 1994 Crux is a manufactured mono.
* '''Felching is Fun''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1993
* '''Cunning Linguistics''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1993
* '''Pigeon''' 28 Jeremy Samson 1997

===Lower Tier===

Routes on the short, steep lower tier starting beneath Swan Lake:
* '''Daring Winter''' 24 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bang Bang Paris''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Symphony in 3 Movements''' 24 Guy Hollwill 1991
* '''Diesel Dieter Does It''' 24 Dieter Wiemar 1998
* '''The Flying Dutchman''' 30 Sean Maasch 1998
* '''Separate Reality''' 23 Arno Purves 1991
* '''Bohemian Summer''' 27 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1991
* '''Bubble''' 31 Sean Maasch 1997
* '''Stubble''' 25 Prof Steve Bradshaw 1992
* '''Bearded Clam''' 19 Grant Sakinofsky 1994 -**Bolts are looking rusty**
* '''Iron Helps Us Play''' 23 Gordon Forbes 1994 -**Bolts are looking rusty**

There are a couple of longer routes further to the right:
* '''Route 44''' 22 David Davies 2004
* '''Uriah''' 19 Simon Larsen 1994

== Photos ==

[[Image:ClimbingAtTheMine.jpg|center|frame|Jimmy and the Big Boys (23)]]

[[Image:WoodRgf.jpg|center|frame|Mike Wood climbing Red Guitar (25)]]

[[Image:FreeSolo.jpg|center|frame|Red Guitar (25)]]

[[Image:Jeep.jpg|center|frame|You'll need a Jeep to drive up to the top]]

[[Category:Cape Town]]

File:Newroutescattlerustler.jpg

2012-08-13T08:18:44Z

Scott:

File:Sport rooiberg.jpg

2010-12-09T13:36:21Z

Scott:

South African Climbing Wiki

2010-09-19T08:55:47Z

Scott:

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
** [[Tafelberg]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Rooiberg Nuwerust Rest Camp]]
**[[Krakadouw]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Towerkop]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]
*[[Thaba Nchu]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]
*[[The Keg]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).