South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

King's Kloof

2011-03-11T10:31:15Z

Tapster: /* King’s Kloof NW */

'''West Rand sport climbing in an unspoilt, tranquil valley near Krugersdorp.'''

'''N.B. THIS GUIDE IS VERY MUCH A WORK IN PROGRESS. PLEASE BEAR WITH US AS WE UPDATE THE INFORMATION'''

[[File:DSC00191b.JPG]]

A view of King's Kloof looking South, taken from the top of the North East sector. The camps of Rocky Valley and Achterbergh can be seen on the right and left respectively.

== Seasons ==

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

== Rock and topography ==

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river.
Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

== Gear ==

60 metre rope and up to 12 quickdraws. So far there are 5x25m climbs and one link-up of 31m, in addition to many shorter lines.
Extra slings and screwgates may be useful for use with the belay safety bolts.
Climbs are equipped with the finest stainless steel hangers made in SA, attached by Hilti HSA-R M10x68mm stainless steel bolts, for your climbing pleasure!
8mm Maillons rated at 15kN are used at anchors and/or rated galvanized chain. Many hangers are painted to lessen environmental impact, more will be painted over time.

== Getting there ==

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp

From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

[[File:Rocky Valley Map.jpg]]

== Booking in ==

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

== Accommodation ==

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

== Guide conventions ==

Route names are followed by the consensus grade and (number of bolts + two anchors). Thus you will know how many quickdraws you need to climb the route and you can choose an appropriate belay method at the anchors.
‘S’ indicates that a safety bolt has been provided on the climb. Routes are described left to right.
Comments on grades, etc are welcomed at http://www.climb.co.za/forum/ under ‘Area Updates and New Routes’. Be nice, we’ve done our best!

== The climbing ==

The climbing is divided into four areas: Kings Kloof NW, NE, SW and SE. The river runs downstream pretty much northwards so the arrangement of the areas should be obvious. There is a prominent sign along the path to King’s Kloof NW which shows the climbing areas. Currently the most developed area is NW, with routes appearing at NE and soon some harder routes at SE. Watch this guide for updates.

[[File:Climbing info.jpg]]

== Special Access Conditions ==

Access has been granted through negotiation with the two religious organisations who own the land. There must be no alcohol at the crag and names of new routes must have respectful Christian connotations. Remember: the Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away (Job 1:21) so please heed these conditions. Please read ‘Crag Rules’.

== Crag Rules ==

In order to make sure we always have access to this crag, the following rules must be adhered to when visiting the area.

** No alcohol permitted.
** Take home all litter and refuse, (including '''''all''''' fruit peels and cigarette butts).
** No unnecessary destroying of vegetation.
** No interference with any animal life.
** No fires.
** No soap or any other detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river.
** No playing of loud music/radios.
** No Graffiti or any defacing of the rocks.
** Toilet activities must be more than 60m from any permanent water and no trace must be visible after the activity. It is preferable that no toilet paper at all is left at Rocky Valley.
** Be polite and courteous to all staff and management of the land owners.
** The area is to be used for climbing and the following other activities are not permitted: fishing, quad or any other motorised biking, hunting, and any other activity which does not comply with the law of the country or the rules of the landowner.

== King’s Kloof NW ==

From the parking area take the path downstream until you can see a rising rock ramp with the obvious chain scramble at the top.

Care with rope management, drag, sharp edges, top-roping and pendulums – so that’s about everything, really!

'''River face''': pass to the right of the rock ramp, taking the path to a steep and broken face.

'''DAMNATION (15M) 17* [?B+A]''' 
Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. The start can be wet in Summer. First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2010.

'''Main faces''': Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble

There are at least three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will probably be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping here so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!

'''Open Project – not yet bolted'''

'''Open Project – not yet bolted'''

'''Neil’s Project 24? – not yet bolted'''

The next two routes start just before the chain scramble:

'''EVE VARIATION (25M) 18** [9B+A] S''' 
The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ADAM'S RIB (25M) 16** [8B+A] S''' 
Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

And, above the chain scramble:

'''WALL OF JERICHO (15M) 14*** [5B+A] S''' 
Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN (10M) 15*** [5B+A] S''' 
Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner.. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE SERPENT (10M) 20** [5B+A] S''' 
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the headwall; easier if you’re tall.. First Ascent: David Tapp, July 2010

'''THE APPLE (8M) 21*** [6B+A] S''' 
Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains. First ascent: David Tapp January 2011

'''ELIJAH'S FLYING CHARIOT (7M) 21** [5B+A] S''' Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, August 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''GENESIS (6M) 18** [5B+A] S''' 
Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ZACHARIAS' TREE (5M) 19* [4B+A]''' 
This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier. . First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''R.I.V. (25M) 13*** [8B+A] S''' 
Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges! First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''DRAGON SLAYERS (12M) 15 [5B+A] No star rating yet'''
Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

'''CRAZY FLYING DEMONS (12M) 13 [5B+A] No star rating yet''' 
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011
Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

'''Variation 19 No star rating yet''' 
Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:

'''HELLFIRE (15M) 23*** [7B+A] S''' 
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp

Neil’s project (Hellfire Direct)

Dave’s project (17m) 21??(6B+A)

'''TURN OR BURN (17M) 23**** [6B+A] S''' 
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010

'''ARMAGEDDON (23M) 19*** [7B+A] S''' 
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''THE WAGES OF SIN (20M) 22**** [6B+A]''' 
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010

'''GOLGOTHA (25M) 18**** [10B+A]''' 
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE FOURTH BEAST (7M) 18 [?B+A]''' 
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.

'''VARIATION 15 No star rating yet''' 
Move up on large holds as for the main climb. Continue up and traverse left into the groove on good holds. First ascent?

'''THE FOUR HORSEMEN (25M) 12*** [8B+A]''' 
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''VARIATION 15''' 
An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''CRUCIFIXION(15m) 21*** [7B+A]''' 
This climb is way right of the last one but the cave it's in is an obvious feature.
Start just left of the bigger cave on the far right of the crag. Move up (with difficulty if short) to an off-balance rest and then do a series of strenuous moves right to get established on the headwall. Climb the headwall trending left to the chains. First ascent Neil Margetts Feb 2011

== King’s Kloof NE ==

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalypts.
The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''THREE WISE MEN (20M) 15 No star rating yet [?B+A]''' 
Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''ANGEL OF MERCY (11M) 17 No star rating yet [?B+A]''' 
Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''NARROW IS THE GATE (22M) 13 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' 
Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011

'''STRAIGHT IS THE WAY (8M) 19/20? No star rating yet [?B,A]''' 
Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains.
All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s. Bolted by David Tapp Feb 2011.

King's Kloof

2011-03-11T10:21:45Z

Tapster: /* King’s Kloof NW */

'''West Rand sport climbing in an unspoilt, tranquil valley near Krugersdorp.'''

'''N.B. THIS GUIDE IS VERY MUCH A WORK IN PROGRESS. PLEASE BEAR WITH US AS WE UPDATE THE INFORMATION'''

[[File:DSC00191b.JPG]]

A view of King's Kloof looking South, taken from the top of the North East sector. The camps of Rocky Valley and Achterbergh can be seen on the right and left respectively.

== Seasons ==

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

== Rock and topography ==

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river.
Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

== Gear ==

60 metre rope and up to 12 quickdraws. So far there are 5x25m climbs and one link-up of 31m, in addition to many shorter lines.
Extra slings and screwgates may be useful for use with the belay safety bolts.
Climbs are equipped with the finest stainless steel hangers made in SA, attached by Hilti HSA-R M10x68mm stainless steel bolts, for your climbing pleasure!
8mm Maillons rated at 15kN are used at anchors and/or rated galvanized chain. Many hangers are painted to lessen environmental impact, more will be painted over time.

== Getting there ==

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp

From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

[[File:Rocky Valley Map.jpg]]

== Booking in ==

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

== Accommodation ==

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

== Guide conventions ==

Route names are followed by the consensus grade and (number of bolts + two anchors). Thus you will know how many quickdraws you need to climb the route and you can choose an appropriate belay method at the anchors.
‘S’ indicates that a safety bolt has been provided on the climb. Routes are described left to right.
Comments on grades, etc are welcomed at http://www.climb.co.za/forum/ under ‘Area Updates and New Routes’. Be nice, we’ve done our best!

== The climbing ==

The climbing is divided into four areas: Kings Kloof NW, NE, SW and SE. The river runs downstream pretty much northwards so the arrangement of the areas should be obvious. There is a prominent sign along the path to King’s Kloof NW which shows the climbing areas. Currently the most developed area is NW, with routes appearing at NE and soon some harder routes at SE. Watch this guide for updates.

[[File:Climbing info.jpg]]

== Special Access Conditions ==

Access has been granted through negotiation with the two religious organisations who own the land. There must be no alcohol at the crag and names of new routes must have respectful Christian connotations. Remember: the Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away (Job 1:21) so please heed these conditions. Please read ‘Crag Rules’.

== Crag Rules ==

In order to make sure we always have access to this crag, the following rules must be adhered to when visiting the area.

** No alcohol permitted.
** Take home all litter and refuse, (including '''''all''''' fruit peels and cigarette butts).
** No unnecessary destroying of vegetation.
** No interference with any animal life.
** No fires.
** No soap or any other detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river.
** No playing of loud music/radios.
** No Graffiti or any defacing of the rocks.
** Toilet activities must be more than 60m from any permanent water and no trace must be visible after the activity. It is preferable that no toilet paper at all is left at Rocky Valley.
** Be polite and courteous to all staff and management of the land owners.
** The area is to be used for climbing and the following other activities are not permitted: fishing, quad or any other motorised biking, hunting, and any other activity which does not comply with the law of the country or the rules of the landowner.

== King’s Kloof NW ==

From the parking area take the path downstream until you can see a rising rock ramp with the obvious chain scramble at the top.

Care with rope management, drag, sharp edges, top-roping and pendulums – so that’s about everything, really!

'''River face''': pass to the right of the rock ramp, taking the path to a steep and broken face.

'''DAMNATION (15M) 17* [?B+A]''' 
Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. The start can be wet in Summer. First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2010.

'''Main faces''': Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble

There are at least three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will probably be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping here so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!

'''Open Project – not yet bolted'''

'''Open Project – not yet bolted'''

'''Neil’s Project 24? – not yet bolted'''

The next two routes start just before the chain scramble:

'''EVE VARIATION (25M) 18** [9B+A] S''' 
The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ADAM'S RIB (25M) 16** [8B+A] S''' 
Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

And, above the chain scramble:

'''WALL OF JERICHO (15M) 14*** [5B+A] S''' 
Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN (10M) 15*** [5B+A] S''' 
Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner.. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE SERPENT (10M) 20** [5B+A] S''' 
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the headwall; easier if you’re tall.. First Ascent: David Tapp, July 2010

'''THE APPLE (8M) 21*** [6B+A] S''' 
Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains. First ascent: David Tapp January 2011

'''ELIJAH'S FLYING CHARIOT (7M) 21** [5B+A] S''' Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, August 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''GENESIS (6M) 18** [5B+A] S''' 
Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ZACHARIAS' TREE (5M) 19* [4B+A]''' 
This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier. . First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''R.I.V. (25M) 13*** [8B+A] S''' 
Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges! First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''DRAGON SLAYERS (12M) 15 [5B+A] No star rating yet'''
Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

'''CRAZY FLYING DEMONS (12M) 13 [5B+A] No star rating yet''' 
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011
Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

'''Variation 19 No star rating yet''' 
Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:

'''HELLFIRE (15M) 23*** [7B+A] S''' 
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp

Neil’s project (Hellfire Direct)

Dave’s project (17m) 21??(6B+A)

'''TURN OR BURN (17M) 23**** [6B+A] S''' 
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010

'''ARMAGEDDON (23M) 19*** [7B+A] S''' 
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''THE WAGES OF SIN (20M) 22**** [6B+A]''' 
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010

'''GOLGOTHA (25M) 18**** [10B+A]''' 
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE FOURTH BEAST (7M) 18 [?B+A]''' 
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.

'''VARIATION 15 No star rating yet''' 
Move up on large holds as for the main climb. Continue up and traverse left into the groove on good holds. First ascent?

'''THE FOUR HORSEMEN (25M) 12*** [8B+A]''' 
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''VARIATION 15''' 
An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''CRUCIFIXION(15m) 21*** [7B+A]''' 
This climb is way right of the last one but the cave it's in is an obvious feature.
Start just left of the bigger cave on the far right of the crag. Move up (with difficulty if short) to an off-balance rest and then do a series of strenous moves right to get established on the headwall. Climb the headwall trending left to the chains. First ascent Neil Margetts Feb 2011

== King’s Kloof NE ==

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalypts.
The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''THREE WISE MEN (20M) 15 No star rating yet [?B+A]''' 
Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''ANGEL OF MERCY (11M) 17 No star rating yet [?B+A]''' 
Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''NARROW IS THE GATE (22M) 13 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' 
Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011

'''STRAIGHT IS THE WAY (8M) 19/20? No star rating yet [?B,A]''' 
Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains.
All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s. Bolted by David Tapp Feb 2011.

South African Climbing Wiki

2011-03-08T15:14:28Z

Tapster:

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

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== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
** [[Tafelberg]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[The Pup and Maltese Cross]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Rooiberg Nuwerust Rest Camp]]
**[[Krakadouw]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*[[Cape Peninsula]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Towerkop]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]
*[[Thaba Nchu]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]
*[[Mzinyathi Falls]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Magageni]]
*[[Wilgepoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]
*[[Manuotsa (JG Strydom Tunnel)]]
*[[Buffalo Gorge]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]] (Mutango Lodge)
*[[King's Kloof]] '''NEW!!!''' 
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]
*[[The Keg]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]
*[[Brandberg Orabeskopf]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).

2011-03-08T14:04:01Z

Tapster:

'''West Rand sport climbing in an unspoilt, tranquil valley near Krugersdorp.'''

'''N.B. THIS GUIDE IS VERY MUCH A WORK IN PROGRESS. PLEASE BEAR WITH US AS WE UPDATE THE INFORMATION'''

[[File:DSC00191b.JPG]]
A view of King's Kloof looking South, taken from the top of the North East sector. The camps of Rocky Valley and Achterbergh can be seen on the right and left respectively.

== Seasons ==

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

== Rock and topography ==

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river.
Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

== Gear ==

60 metre rope and up to 12 quickdraws. So far there are 5x25m climbs and one link-up of 31m, in addition to many shorter lines.
Extra slings and screwgates may be useful for use with the belay safety bolts.
Climbs are equipped with the finest stainless steel hangers made in SA, attached by Hilti HSA-R M10x68mm stainless steel bolts, for your climbing pleasure!
8mm Maillons rated at 15kN are used at anchors and/or rated galvanized chain. Many hangers are painted to lessen environmental impact, more will be painted over time.

== Getting there ==

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp

From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

[[File:Rocky Valley Map.jpg]]

== Booking in ==

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

== Accommodation ==

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

== Guide conventions ==

Route names are followed by the consensus grade and (number of bolts + two anchors). Thus you will know how many quickdraws you need to climb the route and you can choose an appropriate belay method at the anchors.
‘S’ indicates that a safety bolt has been provided on the climb. Routes are described left to right.
Comments on grades, etc are welcomed at http://www.climb.co.za/forum/ under ‘Area Updates and New Routes’. Be nice, we’ve done our best!

== The climbing ==

The climbing is divided into four areas: Kings Kloof NW, NE, SW and SE. The river runs downstream pretty much northwards so the arrangement of the areas should be obvious. There is a prominent sign along the path to King’s Kloof NW which shows the climbing areas. Currently the most developed area is NW, with routes appearing at NE and soon some harder routes at SE. Watch this guide for updates.

[[File:Climbing info.jpg]]

== Special Access Conditions ==

Access has been granted through negotiation with the two religious organisations who own the land. There must be no alcohol at the crag and names of new routes must have respectful Christian connotations. Remember: the Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away (Job 1:21) so please heed these conditions. Please read ‘Crag Rules’.

== King’s Kloof NW ==

From the parking area take the path downstream until you can see a rising rock ramp with the obvious chain scramble at the top.

Care with rope management, drag, sharp edges, top-roping and pendulums – so that’s about everything, really!

'''River face''': pass to the right of the rock ramp, taking the path to a steep and broken face.

'''DAMNATION (15M) 17* [?B+A]''' 
Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. The start can be wet in Summer. First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2010.

'''Main faces''': Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble

There are at least three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will probably be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping here so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!

Open Project – not yet bolted (?B+A)
Open Project – not yet bolted (?B+A)
The Disciple (Neil’s Project) 24? – not yet bolted (?B+A)

The next two routes start just before the chain scramble:

'''EVE VARIATION (25M) 18** [9B+A] S''' 
The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ADAM'S RIB (25M) 16** [8B+A] S''' 
Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

And, above the chain scramble:

'''WALL OF JERICHO (15M) 14*** [5B+A] S''' 
Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN (10M) 15*** [%B+A] S''' 
Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner.. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE SERPENT (10M) 20** [5B+A] S''' 
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the headwall; easier if you’re tall.. First Ascent: David Tapp, July 2010

'''THE APPLE (8M) 21*** [6B+A] S''' 
Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains. First ascent: David Tapp January 2011

'''ELIJAH'S FLYING CHARIOT (6M) 21** [5B+A] S''' Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, August 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''GENESIS (7M) 18** [5B+A] S''' 
Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''ZACHARIAS' TREE (5M) 19* [4B+A]''' 
This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier. . First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''R.I.V. (25M) 13*** [8B+A] S''' 
Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges! First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''DRAGON SLAYERS (12M) 15 [5B+A] No star rating yet'''West Rand sport climbing in an unspoilt, tranquil valley near Krugersdorp.'''

'''CRAZY FLYING DEMONS (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Crazy Flying Demons 13 (12m) (5B+A)
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011
Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:

'''HELLFIRE (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Hellfire (15m) 23 (7B+A) S ***
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp

Neil’s project

Dave’s project (17m) 21??(6B+A)

'''TURN OR BURN (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Turn or Burn (17m) 23 (6B+A) S ****
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010

'''ARMAGEDDON (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Armageddon (23m) 19 (7B +A) S ***
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''THE WAGES OF SIN(15M) 17* [?B,A]''' The Wages of Sin (20m) 22 (6B +A) ****
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010

'''GOLGOTHA (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Golgotha (25m) 18 (10B+A) ****
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE FOURTH BEAST(15M) 17* [?B,A]''' The Fourth Beast (7m) 19 (?B+A)
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.

'''VARIATION (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Variation 15 ….details???

'''THE FOUR HORSEMEN (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' The Four Horsemen (25M) 12 (8B+A) ***?
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''VARIATION (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Variation 15: There is an alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the bolts. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''CRAZY FLYING DEMONS (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Crazy Flying Demons 13 (12m) (5B+A)
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011
Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:

'''HELLFIRE (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Hellfire (15m) 23 (7B+A) S ***
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp

Neil’s project

Dave’s project (17m) 21??(6B+A)

'''TURN OR BURN (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Turn or Burn (17m) 23 (6B+A) S ****
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010

'''ARMAGEDDON (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Armageddon (23m) 19 (7B +A) S ***
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''THE WAGES OF SIN(15M) 17* [?B,A]''' The Wages of Sin (20m) 22 (6B +A) ****
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010

'''GOLGOTHA (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' Golgotha (25m) 18 (10B+A) ****
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

'''THE FOURTH BEAST(15M) 17* [?B,A]''' The Fourth Beast (7m) 19 (?B+A)
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.

'''VARIATION (15M) 17 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' Variation 15 ….details???

'''THE FOUR HORSEMEN (15M) 17* [?B,A]''' The Four Horsemen (25M) 12 (8B+A) ***?
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

'''VARIATION (15M) 17 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' Variation 15: There is an alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the bolts. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''King’s Kloof NE'''

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalypts.
The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''THREE WISE MEN (15M) 17 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' Three Wise Men (20m) 15 (?B+A)
Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

'''ANGEL OF MERCY (15M) 17 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' Angel of Mercy (11m) 17 (?B+A)
Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

'''NARROW IS THE GATE(15M) 17 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' Narrow is the Gate (22m) 13 (?B+A)
Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011

'''STRAIGHT IS THE WAY (15M) 17 No star rating yet [?B,A]''' Straight is the Way (8m) 19/20 (4B?+A)
Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains.
All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s. Bolted by David Tapp Feb 2011.

File:Climbing info.jpg

2011-03-08T14:01:07Z

Tapster:

King's Kloof

2011-03-08T13:01:37Z

Tapster:

'''West Rand sport climbing in an unspoilt, tranquil valley near Krugersdorp.'''

[[File:DSC00191b.JPG]]

== Seasons ==

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter - a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

== Rock and topography ==

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river.
Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

== Gear ==

60 metre rope and up to 12 quickdraws. So far there are 5x25m climbs and one link-up of 31m, in addition to many shorter lines.
Extra slings and screwgates may be useful for use with the belay safety bolts.
Climbs are equipped with the finest stainless steel hangers made in SA, attached by Hilti HSA-R M10x68mm stainless steel bolts, for your climbing pleasure!
8mm Maillons rated at 15kN are used at anchors and/or rated galvanized chain. Many hangers are painted to lessen environmental impact, more will be painted over time.

4. Getting there

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp

From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. For now, please park considerately on each side of the road before the bridge.

[[File:Rocky Valley Map.jpg]]

5. Booking in

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

6. Accommodation

is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

7. Guide conventions

Route names are followed by the consensus grade and (number of bolts + two anchors). Thus you will know how many quickdraws you need to climb the route and you can choose an appropriate belay method at the anchors.
‘S’ indicates that a safety bolt has been provided on the climb. Routes are described left to right.
Comments on grades, etc are welcomed at http://www.climb.co.za/forum/ under ‘Area Updates and New Routes’. Be nice, we’ve done our best!

8. The climbing

The climbing is divided into four areas: Kings Kloof NW, NE, SW and SE. The river runs downstream pretty much northwards so the arrangement of the areas should be obvious. There is a prominent sign along the path to King’s Kloof NW which shows the climbing areas. Currently the most developed area is NW, with routes appearing at NE and soon some harder routes at SE. Watch this guide for updates.

9. Special Access Conditions

Access has been granted through negotiation with the two religious organisations who own the land. There must be no alcohol at the crag and names of new routes must have respectful Christian connotations. Remember: the Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away (Job 1:21) so please heed these conditions. Please read ‘Crag Rules’.

N.B. check number of bolts!!

King’s Kloof NW
From the parking area take the path downstream until you can see a rising rock ramp with the obvious chain scramble at the top.

Care with rope management, drag, sharp edges, top-roping and pendulums – so that’s about everything, really!
River face: pass to the right of the rock ramp, taking the path to a steep and broken face.
Damnation (15m) 17 (?B+A) *
Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2010

Main faces: Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble
There are three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping them so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!
Open Project – not yet bolted (?B+A)
Open Project – not yet bolted (?B+A)
The Disciple (Neil’s Project) 24? – not yet bolted (?B+A)

The next two routes start just before the chain scramble:
Eve Variation (25m) 18 (9B+A) S. **
The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010
Adam’s Rib (25m) 16 (8B+A) S **
Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010
And, above the chain scramble:
Wall of Jericho (15m) 14 (5B+A) S ***
Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010
Stairway to Heaven 15 (10m) (5B+A) S ***
Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner.. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010
The Serpent 20 (10m) (5B+A) S **
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the headwall; easier if you’re tall.. First Ascent: David Tapp, July 2010
The Apple 21 (8m) (6B+A) S.
Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains. First ascent: David Tapp January 2011
Elijah’s Flying Chariot 21 (6m) (5B+A) S ** Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, August 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.
Genesis 18 (5m) (5B+A) S **
Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010
Zacharias’ Tree (5m) 19 (4B+A) **
This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier. . First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

Daryl’s climb – takes the short, deep crack. 15??
R.I.V. 13 (25m) (8B+A) S **
Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges! First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

Dragon Slayers 15 (12m) (5B+A)
Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

Crazy Flying Demons 13 (12m) (5B+A)
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011
Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:
Hellfire (15m) 23 (7B+A) S ***
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp
Hellfire Direct (variation) Neil’s project
Start just left of Number of the Beast and climb straight up from the right to join Hellfire
Number of the Beast (Dave’s project) (17m) 21??(6B+A) ***?
Start as for Turn or Burn. After clipping the second bolt move left across the corner onto a slab. Climb up through the overhang and boldly up the headwall to the top. First Ascent: David Tapp
Turn or Burn (17m) 23 (6B+A) S ****
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010
Armageddon (23m) 19 (7B +A) S ***
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.
The Wages of Sin (20m) 22 (6B +A) ****
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010
Golgotha (25m) 18 (10B+A) ****
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010
The Fourth Beast (7m) 19 (?B+A)
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.
Variation 15 ….details???
The Four Horsemen (25M) 12 (8B+A) ***?
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.
Variation 15: There is an alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the bolts. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

King’s Kloof NE
Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalypts.
The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!
Three Wise Men (20m) 15 (?B+A)
Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.
Angel of Mercy (11m) 17 (?B+A)
Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.
Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!
Narrow is the Gate (22m) 13 (?B+A)
Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011
Straight is the Way (8m) 19/20 (4B?+A)
Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains.
All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s. Bolted by David Tapp Feb 2011.

King's Kloof

2011-03-08T12:59:04Z

Tapster:

File:DSC00191b.JPG

2011-03-08T12:56:56Z

Tapster: uploaded a new version of "File:DSC00191b.JPG": A view of King's Kloof looking South, taken from the top of the North East sector. The camps of Rocky Valley and Achterbergh can be seen on the right and left respectively.

2011-03-08T12:21:48Z

Tapster:

King's Kloof

2011-03-08T12:12:36Z

Tapster: Created page with ''klij'

'klij

2010-01-11T07:19:09Z

Tapster: /* Harry Potter Area */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite & sandstone rock above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Hard Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==
'''The owners of Chosspile (or Harties) have contacted us and are not happy about climbers accessing to climbing from the dam wall side. Please go through the main entrance at the picnic site and pay the R40.'''

To get to the crags you need to get into the Crocodile River picnic site, usually this costs R40 per car. No booking is necessary. From the dam wall driving away from the quaint town of Hartebeespoort turn right at the first stop street towards Brits. There is an Engen garage on your left. Follow the road for about 1-2 km until you cross over a river. Take the first right after this dip, pay the guard and follow the road to the right then straight. Park when the road runs out and find the path going along the water. It forks after 100-200m where there is a small flat rock with ripples in it to your right. Turn left here and then stay right, the path goes up a short rocky scree slope. Follow the path staying parallel to the water channel, just after some rocks you will see a steel weir gate where you cross. Scramble up the rock slightly right and back onto a path, follow this up to the crags.

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the area lower and much further to the left from the main crag. You can either walk left from the main crag until you reach this crag or cross the weir which can be a bit muddy or deep at times. The crag is basically uphill from the ablutions as you drive in to the usual parking spot. Currently the best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the end of the car parking in the picnic area, then head up the path which traverses up and right and takes you alongside a concrete sluice channel. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. Turn left at a split in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. There is still more potential for routes at most grades. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown (in brackets) after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MURTLE 23 *** [7D,A]''' (The original grade was given before a significant jug on the lip of the overhang was literally unearthed. Suggested new grade 20)
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
10m to the right of Moaning Murtle. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make the start safer.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''''New Route'' 15 [?D,A]''' 
The extreme left hand route, in the corner area. Probably the longest route in the Harry Potter area. A lovely climb with a airy feel in its upper section. Climb the pillar/crack straight up to the tree and enormous flake. Disappear behind the flake up a groove to a steep finish and the chains. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.

'''NEW ROUTE -- 23''' 
Heads up the 15 then breaks right towards the spectacular hanging slab. Some have commented on the runout at the top but if you can get onto the slab it's straightforward from there (if you climb 23!).

'''PROJECT''' -- soon to be completed. Hands off! :0)

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
The first route on the face proper.
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

A variation of Slitherin heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. See warning below about missing chain. Suggested grade 17

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Beware: at the moment (10.1.10) there's only one chain! Use at your own discretion.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''''New Route'' 16 [?D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Climb straight to the chains. Care at the start when moving left into a small niche and also when moving off the large ledge at 2/3 height.(Bolted and first ascent by Neil Margetts)

A long way to the right is....

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts about 10m to the right of the new 16. Starts on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the gully. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the routes including the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''DONT DECK 23 **** [B,A,R]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark olver. A classic route.

'''DONT DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DONT DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Oliver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''FOSSIL FUEL 32 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag to the right of the main gully. These are the first climbs you come to when following the usual walk in, basically the crags to the right of the gully.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock.
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

The Chosspile

2010-01-11T07:15:44Z

Tapster: /* Harry Potter Area */

Sport and some Trad clmbing on quartzite & sandstone rock above the Hartebeespoort Dam.

== Season ==
All year round. Hot in summer with occasional thunderstorms, climb in the shade and you should be fine. In winter it gets warm during the day and cool in the evenings.

== Rock ==
Hard Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & 50m rope
The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.

== Getting there / Access ==
'''The owners of Chosspile (or Harties) have contacted us and are not happy about climbers accessing to climbing from the dam wall side. Please go through the main entrance at the picnic site and pay the R40.'''

To get to the crags you need to get into the Crocodile River picnic site, usually this costs R40 per car. No booking is necessary. From the dam wall driving away from the quaint town of Hartebeespoort turn right at the first stop street towards Brits. There is an Engen garage on your left. Follow the road for about 1-2 km until you cross over a river. Take the first right after this dip, pay the guard and follow the road to the right then straight. Park when the road runs out and find the path going along the water. It forks after 100-200m where there is a small flat rock with ripples in it to your right. Turn left here and then stay right, the path goes up a short rocky scree slope. Follow the path staying parallel to the water channel, just after some rocks you will see a steel weir gate where you cross. Scramble up the rock slightly right and back onto a path, follow this up to the crags.

== References ==
SA Mountain Magazine - Issue No. 5 June 2003. A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]

== Route Guide ==
'''Here follows the route guide as sourced directly from [http://www.saclimb.co.za www.saclimb.co.za]'''

== Harry Potter Area ==

This is the area lower and much further to the left from the main crag. You can either walk left from the main crag until you reach this crag or cross the weir which can be a bit muddy or deep at times. The crag is basically uphill from the ablutions as you drive in to the usual parking spot. Currently the best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the end of the car parking in the picnic area, then head up the path which traverses up and right and takes you alongside a concrete sluice channel. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. Turn left at a split in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. There is still more potential for routes at most grades. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.

10th January 2010: The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown (in brackets) after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!

Climbs are described left to right.

'''DRAKO 24 ** [7D,A]''' 
1. 21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
2. 21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.
First Ascent: Unknown. Retro-bolted by Rory Lowther

'''BOLTS FROM THE BLUE 15 [N]''' 
1. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Wessel, Cara

'''HARRY POTHEAD 19 *** [6D,A]''' 
Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HOGWARTS WARTED HOG 23 *** [9D,A]''' 
Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''CHAMBER OF SECRETS 25 *** [8D,A]''' 
Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
First Ascent: Steve Dunnet BB: Rory Lowther

'''DOBBY 23/24 *** [8D,A]''' 
Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther BB: Debbie Mulder

'''DODGY GLUE 19 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.

'''MAN THANG 24 *** [B,A]''' 
To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.

'''THE PHILOSOPHERS STONE 20 **** [8D,A]''' (this route was originally called The Philosophers Stoned. The name given here may be a typo. Suggested new grade 21, due to the sustained nature of the route)
Starts 3m right of Man Thang. Climb the overhanging start, to the arete on the right. Stay slightly left of the arete following bolts to a cruxy last move with a decent jug.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HARRY GOES TRADING 13 ** [N]''' 
Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''MOANING MURTLE 23 *** [7D,A]''' (The original grade was given before a significant jug on the lip of the overhang was literally unearthed. Suggested new grade 20)
Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''SPONGIFY 22 ** [8D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 21)
10m to the right of Moaning Murtle. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make the start safer.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''VOLTAMOR 19 **** [8D,A]''' (Suggested: only two stars)
Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''DIFFINDO 20 ** [7D,A]''' 
Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

'''''New Route'' 15 [?D,A]''' 
The extreme left hand route, in the corner area. Probably the longest route in the Harry Potter area. A lovely climb with a airy feel in its upper section. Climb the pillar/crack straight up to the tree and enormous flake. Disappear behind the flake up a groove to a steep finish and the chains. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.

Unnamed new route -- 23, heads up the 15 then breaks right towards the spectacular hanging slab. Some have commented on the runout at the top but if you can get onto the slab it's straightforward from there (if you climb 23!).

Project -- soon to be completed. Hands off! :0)

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE LEFT HAND 13 [7D,A]''' 
The first route on the face proper.
Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan

'''HARRY CATASTROPHE RIGHT HAND 15 [6D,A]''' 
Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
First Ascent: May 2004 Mike Grant

'''SLITHERIN 14 **** [10D,A]''' 
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

A variation of Slitherin heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. See warning below about missing chain. Suggested grade 17

'''RAVENS CLAW 17 *** [9D,A]''' 
Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Beware: at the moment (10.1.10) there's only one chain! Use at your own discretion.
First Ascent: Roland Magg

'''GRIFFENDORE 17 *** [10D,A]''' 
This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''HUFF 'N PUFF 18 *** [9D,A]''' (Suggested new grade 19)
Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
First Ascent: Rory Lowther

'''''New Route'' 16 [?D,A]''' 
Starts 2m right of Huff 'n' Puff. Climb straight to the chains. Care at the start when moving left into a small niche and also when moving off the large ledge at 2/3 height.(Bolted and first ascent by Neil Margetts)

A long way to the right is....

'''CRAMCAKES AND SCUMBAGS 20 [6D,A]''' 
Starts about 10m to the right of the new 16. Starts on a rocky ledge in a corner. It has a tricky start and an easier top out.
First Ascent: 2004 Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham

== Lord of The Rings ==
This is the central 'cave' area just left of the gully. This was the first developed area and sports the majority of the routes including the hardest lines and some projects. The crag is shaded most of the day, gets some sun late afternoon.

'''PIPE WEED 22 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
First Ascent: Dewald Kloppers

'''FRODO 18 **** [9D,A]''' 
Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth

'''A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS 21 **** [B,A]''' 
The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. Excellent route.

'''VOICES OF SARUMAN 23 * [B,A]''' 
Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.

'''GANDALF 25 *** [B,A]''' 
A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN, tends slightly right with a single crux move. Used to be 26, but is easy 25.

'''MOURN NOT OVERMUCH 25 *** [B,A]''' 
About 2m right of GANDALF, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF.

'''HALFLING 27''' 
Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. Bouldery.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley

'''GOLLUM 25 **** [B,A]''' 
1m right of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, tending slightly rightward, quite cruxy. Take care of the lower-off as the edges are sharp on the rope. Was 24 but is 7a. Great climb.

'''UNKNOWN 26 [B]''' 
The second pitch to GOLLUM, no details available.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Was Sean Cremen's project but is now open, has the first bolt placed at the base. Starts 2m right of GOLLUM and angles slighlty right to join BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS. Ends on same chains as BULLY.

'''BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS 28 *** [10D,A]''' 
Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the face. Great. Low in grade.
First Ascent: Peter Lazarus

'''TYRANASAURUS PEX 27 *** (B)''' 
Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006

'''PIETER'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Pieter Martin's project started in 2001. Scrambles up as for BULLY FOR BRONTASAURUS and then right from the cave, through the roof on the first x bolts of Richard's old project and then up the bulge to the top.
First Ascent: BB Pieter Martin

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Starts from the same cave as BULLY heading right through the roofs. This will be fairly hard and the rusted bolts need to be replaced. Please use stainless steel Hilti anchors! This was Richard Lord's old project.

'''DONT DECK 23 **** [B,A,R]''' 
This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL. It ends below a roof where another route continues but we have no details for it. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark olver. A classic route.

'''DONT DECK EXTENSION 27 *** [B]''' 
Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DONT DECK but avoid the top corner. Traverse right and then climb through the final roof section of FOSSIL FUEL. Mark Oliver's old project.
First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)

'''FOSSIL FUEL 32 *** [B,A]''' 
Starts on some smooth coloured rock on the sloping slab about 5-6m left of GRIMSLADE. Some thin moves tending leftward and up to the roof and then through it. Not great for lowering off, take care. Some of the drop-in bolts also need replacing. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating. Get the the beta and its low in grade.
First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus)

'''RALPH'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Ralph Brucher's project just right of FOSSIL FUEL started a few years back! This one is also into the thirties, probably harder than FOSSIL FUEL.

'''OPEN PROJECT [B,A]''' 
Project bolted by Pieter Martin just right of RALPH'S PROJECT, this is into the thirties!

'''COLIN CRABTREE'S PROJECT [B,A]''' 
The steep line between GRIMSLADE and PIETER MARTIN'S PROJECT, this will probably go in the thirties too. Started by Colin in 2002.

'''GRIMSLADE 27 (7b+) ** [6D,A]''' 
This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 but concensus is 27 now that the key rest hold before the crux broke off.

'''UNFINISHED BUSINESS 23/24 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route needs the first bolt cheat-clipped. Starts just right of GRIMSLADE climbing diagonally right and then finishing up about 1m left of where HOBBITRY IN ARMS FINISHES. Take care not to venture onto HOBBITRY IN ARMS as it makes the route much easier, also do not start the route too far right either.

'''HOBBITRY IN ARMS 20 ** [6D,A]''' 
A short line with some long moves.

'''RAMBLE ON 18 ** [B,A]''' 
The rightmost route on this section of the crag starting just left of the gully and just right of a large crack in ther crag. Take care there is still some loose rock on this climb. It is marked as a 19 on the rock.
 

== Wall Of Aglarond ==
The rightmost section of crag to the right of the main gully. These are the first climbs you come to when following the usual walk in, basically the crags to the right of the gully.

'''SEVENTEEN 17 ** [B,A,R]''' 
This route is between RAMBLE ON & LADY OF LORIEN. From RAMBLE ON go back over the gully and carry on at the same level until you get to the base of the next cliff on your right. The first bolt is very high, please take care.

'''THE KING OF THE GOLDEDN HALL 17 ** [8D,A]''' 
Starts 3 metres to the left of MR GAMGEE. Keep left, and use the topout on the small roof.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''MR GAMGEE 20 ** [9D,A]''' 
Crux is reachy, but fun. Route has its own topouts, dont use TKOTGH's topout.
First Ascent: Apr 2003 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''TARRAWANKIE 19 *** [9D,A]''' 
The route starts about 10m on the same crag and to the left of LADY OF LORIEN. A pleasantly sustained climb with some fine moves to get over the first nose.
First Ascent: Sep 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LEGOLAS 22 **** [14D,A]''' 
A splendid route almost reaching 25m with a number of stylish moves on some fairly sizable grips. Keep left at the small roof. Gets quite pumpy at the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit

'''LADY OF LORIEN 22 *** [11D,A]''' 
As you walk up the normal path to the crag you will get to a cliff right of the main crag, it is well before you cross a small gully and at a lower level to the main crag. As the path gets to the base of the cliff walk a little left & you should see this line of bolts. A long and pumpy, but fun 22.

'''ARAGORN 21 *** [14D,A]''' 
Two types of climbing styles on this route. A bouldery climb to a flat area in the middle, and then some balancing needed to proceed past the crux. Interesting.
First Ascent: Nov 2002 Andries Smit & Derek Pienaar

'''UNKNOWN 22/23 [B,A]''' 
This route goes up left of a recess.
First Ascent: Unknown.

'''SAURON 18 ** [7D,A]''' 
This route has the first bolt quite high, take care as the second bolt is placed on a hollow section of rock.
First Ascent: Unknown

'''BLUE FLOWERS 15 ** [6D,A]''' 
The route is about 20m right of SAURON on a low slab with a crack running down the middle.
First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth