South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Yellowwood Amphitheatre

2013-04-11T08:09:09Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.726731
| Longitude = 19.208043
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = Summer
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Du Toits Kloof

}}
= Ethics =

The prevailing ethic for Yellowwood is tread lightly.

'''"Tread lightly" means no bolting''' of belay stances unless all possible alternatives have been completely exhausted. No placing of bolts for running belays that are not absolutely essential. No use of pitons, unless necessary. No use of power drills is accepted!

Climbers are asked to respect the prevailing ethic which is intended to preserve the aesthetic appeal of Yellowwood as a world-class Trad climbing destination.

'''It is essential for first time visitors to do an ascent of one of the existing classic trad routes to appreciate the committing and adventurous nature of the climbing at Yellowwood.''' Older routes such as '''Armageddon Time''' (and the direct), '''Blood is Sweeter than Honey''' and '''Time Warp''' are all test pieces for their grade. And newer routes such as '''Prime Time''' (and the direct) and '''Fantastic Time''' as well as "routes in progress" of which there at least 3, are no less demanding at the grade. '''Most, if not all the trad routes have at least one "R" (run-out) pitch but none are "X" rated. None have bolts. There is only one piece of fixed gear on all these routes (a peg on Blood is Sweeter than Honey) and there are no fixed stances!'''

A new route on Yellowwood, Fighting The Dark Side Of Gravity, has had all its bolts removed, except for two that are essential for the leader on Pitch 3. Two non-essential pitons have also been removed.

There has been much debate about Yellowwood and the most active Yellowwood climbers have talked extensively so as to settle the ethos of this high-value cliff.

In a recent meeting Adam Roff, Jeremy Samson and Hilton Davies distilled the following:

Yellowwood is a very special Trad climbing venue and there have been some mis-steps in route development at the crag. Newborn was bolted many years ago before locals had given much thought to bolting and ethics. It is a legacy that shall remain, but should not be seen as guidance for route development at Yellowwood. More recently four new routes have been established by visitors who have made extensive use of non-essential bolting. Whilst route development is encouraged, non-essential bolting is not; and these new routes are getting their non-essential bolts removed. They will remain as good adventurous routes.

'''Further Signatories:''' 
Willem le Roux 
Karl Hayden 
Stephen Davis 
Andy Davies 
Andy Wood 
Bruce Daniel 
Keith James 
Douw Steyn 
Ross Suter 
Rik de Decker 
Dirk Versfeld 
Paul Fatti 
Carl Kritzinger 
Rob Zipplies 
Scarre Cilliers 
Mark Berry 
Anthony Hall 
Mike Scott 
Kevin Smith 
Stewart Middlemiss 
Nic Good 
Charles Edelstein 
David Vallet 
Andy de Klerk 
Richard Behne 
Tienie Versfeld 
Alan Ross 
Chris Lomax 
John Alexander 
Evan Wiercx 
Ed February 
Andre Vercueil 
Bryant Roux 
Stuart Brown 
Dave Shewell 
Johnathan Gordon 
Stewart Noy 
Paul Schlotfeldt 
Clinton Martinengo 
Bobby Woods 
David Mercer 
Neels Havenga 
Justin Lawson 
Brian Weaver 
Johann Lanz 
Guy Paterson-Jones 

= How to get there =

Yellowwood Amphitheatre is in Du Toit's Kloof on the Worcester side of the Hugenot Tunnel, approximately an hour's drive from Cape Town. The amphitheatre is on the south side of the road (the N1). (It's on the right hand side if you are coming from Cape Town.) A path winds up the right-hand side of Yellowwood Ravine to reach the foot of the Amphitheatre. The walk-in is steep and takes about two hours. There is a water drip near the base of Yellowwood that is unreliable and seasonal - June to December

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

[[Du Toits Kloof]]

=== Getting There ===

Descent:
Walk right(looking in) to reach a system of gullies beyond the ridge. Scrambling and two rappells over short vertical sections gives access to a traverse line that leads back left to the bottom of the amphitheatre.

PLEASE NOTE TOPO PIC MAY BE INACCURATE!

[[Image:Yellowwood topo small3.jpg]]

== '''Descent''' ==
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.

[[DOWN TIME Rap Route]]
OR use the rap route (affectionately dubbed "Down Time"):

== Routes ==

* [[Tea Time (21 A0 or 24?) **]]
* [[FUN Time 20 ****]]
* [[Blood is Sweeter than Honey (22) ***]]
* [[New Born 29]]
* [[Prime Time Direct 24 *****]]
* [[Your Mother His Face]]
* [[Time Warp (20) **]]
* [[Time Warp Direct 26]]
* [[DOWN TIME Rap Route]]
* [[African Time - ''ain’t a straight line'' (25) ****]]
* [[Armageddon Time (23) ****]]
* [[Fantastic Time (23) *****]]
* [[The Second Coming (23) **]]
* [[Episode I - Fight Against The Dark Side Of Gravity]]
* [[Judgment Day]]
* [[Smalblaar Ridge ***** Grade F2]]

Category:Montagu

2013-03-03T05:54:56Z

Toprope: Replaced content with "Category:Western Cape"

[[Category:Western Cape]]

Bad Kloof

2013-02-17T09:19:49Z

Toprope:

>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page

=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

=Fees, Permits, Etc=
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
</display_points>

== The Penthouse ==
As seen from upriver looking downriver.
[[File:Waterworld_3.jpg|800px]]

The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|<Project>
|
|
|
|BB. C Martinengo.
|
|-
|2.
|Pet of the Month
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
|
|-
|3.
|Groping in the Dark
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== Waterworld ==

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

'''Waterworld History'''
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

[[File:Waterworld_4.jpg|800px]]

Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
|19/6a/6a+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|2.
|Arendsig
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|*****
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|3.
|Walk On By
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
|
|-
|4.
|Some Would Say
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
|
|-
|5.
|Simply Irresistable
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
|(Branches left)
|-
|6.
|The Singularity
|29/7c+
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
|(veers right)
|-
|7.
|Firestarter!
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|8.
|My Route Down By The River
|31/8a+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|9.
|Chongalolo
|Project
|
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
|
|-
|10.
|Twist And Crawl
|28/7c
|12 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
|
|-
|11.
|The Mission
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
|-
|12.
|Sidewinder
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|-
|13.
|Creepy Crawly
|20/6a+
|6 Bolts
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|
|}

== Peanut Gallery ==
Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.
[[File:Peanut_b.JPG|600px]]

Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Good Day for Basketball
|22/6c
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|Finding Ningo
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Duende
|32/8b
|
|
|FA. Matt Bush.
|
|}

== Lion Said ==
As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Short Cut
|21/6b+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|2.
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
|23/6c+
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Come Short
|25/7a+
|3 Bolts
|
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hello Aloe
|15/ 5b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|5.
|Devil Speak
|21/6b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
|
|}

== Sloth Crag ==
Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Sunshine Reggae
|15/5b
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
|-
|2.
|One For The Money
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown 2002.
|
|-
|3.
|Rattle and Hum
|24/7a
|5 bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Beautiful Day
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2002
|
|-
|5.
|Sloth
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996
|
|-
|6.
|If I Go It will Be Double
|24/7a
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
|-
|7.
|Throw The Chicken
|9/4
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|
|-
|8.
|Mediocre Youth
|21/6b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Smigelskis
|
|-
|9.
|Two For The Show
|17/5c
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002
|
|-
|10.
|Vision Thing
|23/6c+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2003
|
|}

== Supertubes ==
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

[[File:Supertubes1.JPG|800px]]

Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
|21/6b+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|The Dumper
|15/5b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|3.
|Beach Break
|19/6a+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Whoa She Poopie
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
|
|-
|5.
|Point Break
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Rad and Bad
|29/7c+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
|-
|7.
|Surf and Turf
|23/6c+
|7 Bolts
|
| <add FA>
|
|-
|8.
|Leap Tide
|27/7b+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
|Shares same chains as Thruster
|-
|9.
|Thruster
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
|
|-
|10.
|Triple Stinger
|26/7b
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
|
|-
|11.
|J-Bay
|28/7c
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|Wipe-Out
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
|-
|13.
|Hypoxia
|29/7c+
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
|
|-
|14.
|First Wave
|25/7a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
|
|-
|15.
| <unknown>
| <add details>
|
|
|
|}

<gallery>


File:Stu leaptide.jpg


</gallery>

== Pipeline ==
There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|2.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|3.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <Open Project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== South Park ==
The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace.
South Park Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
|7a/25
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
|
|-
|2.
|Who Killed Kenny?
|7b+/27
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
|
|}

== The Palace ==
The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|-
|1.
|Bad Cop, No Donut
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
|-
|2.
|Elegantly Wasted
|26/7b
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
|
|-
|3.
|S''1''0''2''
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
|
|-
|4.
|Icarus
|23/6c+
|
|
|BB&FA. S Brown. 2010
|
|-
|5.
|Lexi's Route
|25/7a+
|7 Bolts
|
| <unknown>
|
|-
|6.
|Cyberpunk
|25/7a+
|9 Bolts
|*****
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|7.
|MoonaBoos
|27/7b+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
|
|-
|8.
|Shagadelic
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 2000
|
|-
|9.
|Burning Chrome
|28/7c
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|10.
|Judge Dredd
|29/7c+
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
|
|-
|11.
|Strange Days
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
|
|-
|12.
|About Time
|27/7b+
|12 Bolts
|
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
|
|-
|13.
|The Activist
|30/8a
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|14.
|The Neuromancer
|23/6c+
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
|
|-
|15.
|Mad Max
|21/6b+
|14 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|-
|16.
|Psycho Ranger
|20/6b
|13 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
|}

== The Swamp ==
Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Gruff
|7b/26
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Route Do Me
|7b+/27
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
|
|-
|3.
|Gluttony
|7c+/29
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
|
|-
|4.
|Where Eagles Dare
|5c/16
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|5.
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
|5a/13
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
|On the slab.
|-
|6.
|Disprin
|25/7a+
|10 Bolts
|
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
|}

== Playground ==
Small crag right of The Swamp.
Playground Routes LEFT to Right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Jungle Gym Junkie
|5c/18
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
|
|-
|2.
|Jungle Jim
|6a/19
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|3.
|See Saw
|4/15
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
|
|-
|4.
|The Jester
|6c+/24
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
|
|-
|5.
|Party-on Wayne
|7a/25
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|Jus Klup Ut
|7b+/27
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|7.
|Powerplay
|7a+/25
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. E February. 1995.
|
|-
|8.
|Fun in the Sun
|6b+/22
|3 Bolts
|
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
|
|}

== Uriah Heep ==
Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Love Machine
|6b+/22
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stealin'
|6b+/22
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
|
|-
|3.
|Digital Bitch
|7b/26
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
|
|-
|4.
|Demons and Wizards
|7b+/28
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
|
|-
|5.
|Easy Living
|7b/26
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
|
|-
|6.
|November Afternoon
|6c/23
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
|-
|7.
|July Morning
|6b+/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|
|-
|8.
|Firefly
|6a/19
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
|
|}

== The Arete ==
On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savage Me
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1994
|
|}

== Berlin Wall ==
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.

Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Minefield
|6c/22
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|2.
|Vays und Meenz
|7a/24
|11 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
|
|-
|3.
|Streef Bogananoff
|7a/24
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
|
|-
|4.
|Hot Toddy Bension
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|5.
|Brandenburg Gate
|6b+/21
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jåger
|
|-
|6.
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
|27/7b+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|7.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|BB. Stuart Brown
|}

== Worlds Apart ==
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Reflections
|25/7a+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. R Suter. 1995
|
|-
|2.
|Project
|
|
|
|BB. R Suter
|
|-
|3.
|Delete Button
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
|
|-
|4.
|Yankee Rose
|29/7c+
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
|
|-
|5.
|Voices
|24/7a
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
|
|-
|6.
|Daze of Thunder
|28/7c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
|
|-
|7.
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
|32/8b
|7 Bolts
|
|<Open>
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
|-
|8.
|Whispering Echo
|10/4
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|9.
|Little Jack Horner
|15/5b
|8 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|10.
|Kojak
|18/6a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
|
|-
|11.
|Rolling Stones
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
|Retro bolted by S Brown
|-
|12.
|Sukmeov
|22/6c
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
|
|}

== Jurrasic Park ==
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Against the Grain
|7c/28
|7 Bolts
|
|FA. J Samson. 1995.
|
|-
|2.
|Jabulani
|7c/28
|9 Bolts
|
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
|
|-
|3.
|Big Bag Voodoo
|5/17
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|5.
|Mazawattee
|35/8c+
|
|
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
|
|-
|6.
|Nugget Slab
|18/6a
|8 Bolts
|
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
|On slab opposing overhang.
|}

== The Laundry ==
Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.

The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Super Blue
|24/7a
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
|
|-
|2.
|Stay Soft
|26/7b
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
|
|-
|3.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|4.
| <open project>
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== The Rage ==
Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.

The Rage Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Bullet in the Head
|31/8a+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
|This route is manufactured.
|}

== The Hotel ==
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.

The Hotel Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|The Key
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|-
|2.
|The bellboys, The bellboys
|26/7b
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
|
|-
|3.
|U Like Jamin?
|23/6c+
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
|-
|4.
|Rim Service
|24/7a
|6 Bolts
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
|
|}

== The Bar ==
The Bar Routes from Left to Right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1.
|Savanna
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|-
|2.
|Captain Morgan
|19/6a+
|4 Bolts
|
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
|
|}

>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

Category:Cederberg

2013-02-14T07:58:27Z

Toprope: Replaced content with "Category:Western Cape"

[[Category:Western Cape]]

Category:Tafelberg

2013-02-14T07:57:59Z

Toprope: Replaced content with "Category:Cederberg"

[[Category:Cederberg]]

Swartberg Pass

2013-01-31T08:17:59Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.294413
| Longitude = 22.051093
| Climbing Type = trad
| Rock Type = quartzite/sandstone
| Season =
| Province = Western Cape
| Area =

}}

= How to get there =

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =

[[Western Cape]]

==Download PDF==
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/ClimbZA_SwartbergPass.pdf Download the Swartberg Pass Topo] NB: this is a 922kb PDF

DON’T OPEN THE COFFIN

A new route in the Swartberg Pass
Groot Swartberg range

Location: The climb lies at the beginning of the Pass, on the Prince Albert side. From the PA/Klaarstroom road on the N side of the Swartberg, turn off onto the Pass road. About 1/2 km after the Cape Nature sign, rock walls close in on both sides of the road. About 100m further, park at the first lay-by on the RHS (this is where Deon’s routes are located). Walk up the road for about 60 meters, until a sharp right-angled turn to the right. Immediately where the road straightens out again, locate a short wall on the right, about 20m above the road. This wall is set well back from the road, and lies at the far (northern) side of a bushed ledge. The wall faces south, with a clearly visible crack system. To the left of this wall is a shattered arête that forms the RHS of Roadside Crag, the main face of which runs parallel to the road. (From slightly further up the road, the “coffin” at the start of Pitch 2 can clearly be seen, projecting out from the ledge high above).

Scramble up to the base of the short wall, easiest from a point on the corner of the road, below a large perched boulder.

Pitch 1. 18m. F1

Up the crack to belay on the lip above.

Pitch 2. 40m. F2

Continue up the edge to the large chockstone; step over this onto the small platform above. Make an exposed move left onto the arête itself, and pull up (beware loose block) to continue through a short dierdre, leading up to a point where the arête forms a horizontal ledge. Step off the huge flake at the end of this ledge, onto the “wrinkled” rock above. Trend left and then right around the corner to belay from easier rock.

Scramble up and then along the left hand side of the arête to gain a large ledge (running parallel to the road below), at the far end of which the massive coffin block balances precariously (opening it might dislodge it…).

Pitch 3. 40m. F1

About 3 m right of the coffin, take the crack (cairn) in the centre of the wall (a further crack runs parallel higher up), over a short break, and then trend leftwards, moving at one stage around a large rectangular block projecting out left. Continue up to the summit platform.

Descent: Scramble down west off the platform (some parties will rope for this). Continue scrambling along the knife-edge ridge for another 50 m until an easy break at the far end of the knife-edge allows access to the scree slopes leading down to the road (and pool!).

First Ascent: Basher Attwell, Carl Fatti, Brian Lambourne. 17 Sept 2010

Category:Table Mountain

2013-01-07T13:02:53Z

Toprope: Blanked the page

Montagu

2013-01-05T09:40:31Z

Toprope:

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Climbing in Montagu}}

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -33.784854
| Longitude = 20.116596
| Climbing Type = Sport, Multi-pitch Sport, Trad
| Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone
| Season = All year round
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Montagu

}}

Montagu is 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is the most developed sport climbing area in the Western Cape (if not the country). 100's of sport routes of all ranges of difficulty. +/-400 Single Pitch & a good few Multi-Pitch Sport Routes.

<h1>Climbing in Montagu</h1>
Montagu offers some of the best climbing in the Western Cape with many crags that vary in grade and steepness with excellent quality rock. Two hours drive from Cape Town, it rarely rains in Montagu and when Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing (Except for the occasional freak floods).
The small town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region). Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. It is now well known for climbing and mountain biking (among things).

* Click here for more information about Montagu on http://montagu.org.za
 

=Bolting / New Routes =

I’m sure everyone is aware of the [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5670&start=0&hilit=bosch 'closure of Bosch Kloof'].
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.

== Application info should include: ==
* Location of the route
* A picture of the route with the proposed route drawn in
* Whether or not there is an existing path to the new route?
* Have you bolted before?
* Your contact details

Your request will be processed as quickly as possible and you will be contacted with regards to your application.
Please send all new route applications to [mailto:info@climbing.co.za info@climbing.co.za] and make the subject New Routes Montagu.

As with the rest of the Western Cape, only 316 Stainless Steel rolled bolts are allowed to be used for bolting routes in Montagu. Check the [http://www.climb.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund/ Anchor Replacement Fund page] for more information.

= Getting there =
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R21.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you're now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right at the second set of traffic lights and take the R43 into Worcester, after going over the bridge, turn left at the high street traffic lights (2nd set) and follow the signs to Robertson and then onto Ashton and then Montagu. You should now be on the 'R60' road, Note that this road turns into the 'R62' after Ashton.
Be aware that the local traffic cops have been trapping in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.

= Accommodation & Food =

[http://www.debos.co.za De Bos] (Tel/Fax 023 614 2532, Cell 082 3325453). Camping is about R30 per person per night (includes cooking facilities)
The Barn costs R60 (minimum two nights stay) has bunk beds, includes cooking facilities (as of Jan 2009).
The Barn at De Bos is closed during winter to stable the horses. Camping and other self-catering accommodation is still available.
Bungelows are also available from R250.

[http://www.rainbowglen.co.za Rainbow Glen] (Tel 023 614 1294)
Double Rooms from R350 (per couple)

There are supermarkets in town (Spar, OK Foods, etc) and restaurants in Montagu.

= Classic Routes=

* The Gospel Express (17)
* Nuclear Waste (20)
* Wildcard(24)
* Thruster (26)
* Daze of Thunder (27/28)
* Cool Like That (29)

= Montagu Area Map =
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.711917,19.986355 | [[Oorlogs Kloof]]
-33.821941,20.149584 | [[Lost World]]
-33.814130, 20.099668|Forest
-33.814506, 20.100920|Twin Fins
-33.814052, 20.097529|Hilti
-33.812413, 20.097465|Ramset
-33.813149, 20.096663|Bosch
-33.814032, 20.092526|The Panel
-33.813778, 20.091539|Legoland
-33.781209, 20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
-33.813309, 20.101642|Skull
-33.814223, 20.089030|The Far Side
-33.802166, 20.095198|The Fort
-33.793572, 20.102257|The Bold & The Beautiful
-33.793292, 20.102420|The Alley
-33.797866, 20.101620|The Steeple
-33.801013, 20.108511|[[Cogmans Buttress]]
-33.804586, 20.108977|Eagles Folly Buttress
-33.800198, 20.108959|Castle in the Sky
-33.809996, 20.098951|The Matrix
-33.806475, 20.106508|The Shooting Gallery
-33.803112, 20.100117|Keur Kloof Entrance
-33.812488, 20.105046|The Rose Bowl
-33.811838, 20.107850|Joe's Garage
-33.813347, 20.111308|Vision
-33.816498, 20.120413|Heaven
-33.811933, 20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof
-33.783410, 20.099196|The Scoop
-33.779165, 20.112353|Eyssenhuis
-33.782461, 20.101328|Klipspringer Hut
-33.776248, 20.116096|Waterworld
-33.775864, 20.116799|Peanut Gallery
-33.775253, 20.117633|Sloth
-33.774655, 20.118121|Supertubes
-33.774854, 20.117176|Lion Said
-33.776000, 20.114984|The Penthouse
-33.773043, 20.120942|The Palace
-33.773276, 20.120052|South Park
-33.774591, 20.119560|The Pipeline
-33.771811, 20.118502|The Swamp
-33.771814, 20.117901|The Playground
-33.769928, 20.114097|Berlin Wall
-33.769408, 20.115578|Jurassic Park
-33.769769, 20.115271|Worlds Apart
-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap
-33.780232, 20.103545|The Cauldron
-33.779266, 20.112121|Donkerkloof Entrance
-33.836344,20.181406|[[Climbing on R62‎]]
</display_points>

= Climbing Areas =

==[[Bad Kloof]]==
Crags including: Berlin Wall, Jurrasic Park, Laundry, Lion Said, Peanut Gallery, Pipeline, Playground, Rage, Sloth, South Park, Supertubes, The Hotel, The Swamp, The Palace, Uriah Heep, Waterworld

==[[Bosch Kloof‎]]==
Crags including: Legoland, The Far Side, Bosch Crag, Ramset Crag, Forest Crag, Hilti Crag, Skull Crag, Twin Fins, The Panel Crags, Matrix

== [[Climbing on R62‎ | The Farm (Climbing on R62)]] ==
== [[Cogmans Kloof‎]] ==
** [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
** [[Cogmans Buttress]]
** [[Mystery Crag]]
** [[The Alley]]
** [[The Fort]]
** [[The Steeple]]

== [[Donker Kloof‎]]==
** [[The Cauldron]]
** [[The Scoop]]

== [[Guano Caves‎]] ==

==[[Keur Kloof‎]]==
** [[Heaven]]
** [[Jamaica]]
** [[Joe's Garage]]
** [[Rose Bowl]]
** [[The Lineup]]
** [[The Shooting Gallery]]
** [[Vision]]

== [[Lost World‎]]==

==[[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]==
Crags including: Buttock Buttress, Maverick Wall, Meatloaf Wall, Wildcard Buttress, Le Pique-nique Area, Snark Buttress, Cowboy Area, Cuts Both Ways Area, Tower of Babel

>> Back to [[Western Cape]] page

Swinburne

2012-12-22T06:24:03Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -28.22877
| Longitude = 29.16576
| Climbing Type = Sport, Trad and Bouldering
| Rock Type = Sandstone (Soft)
| Season = All year round
| Province = Free State
| Area = Swinburne
}}

[[Category:Free State Climbing Areas]]

== Basic Info ==
Swinburne is a little village just off the N3, south of Harrismith. It is a very beautiful area strewn with good boulders, some with bolted routes. The main mountain, Rensburgkop also has multi-pitch sport routes. There is a huge potential for new routes and bouldering in this area.

The Main Mountain can be seen in the image to the right as well as the boulders scattered around it. Keep in mind that the mountain extends much further southward and offers much more rock than can be seen here.

Access
The crags and boulders are on private property which is shared by the Bald Ibis Hiking Trail. Please call ahead if you plan to visit. Sometimes hikers or events block book the barn. The house can also be booked. When staying in the 2-bed rooms, the kitchen in the main house is at your disposal.

PLEASE CALL Elzeri on 058 672-1013 or 084 516 6820 TO BOOK, BEFORE ARRIVING and to get directions. She is sometimes out of cell range, please be patient and try again. Alternatively, try Frans (manager) 072 708 5965.

Please pay before leaving or we could loose access to this crag. Ansie accepts internet payments, or pay her directly when you're there.

You will see some GPS co-ordinates listed for certain problems, they are all using WGS84/Hartebeeshoek94 datum, all degrees and decimal minutes South then East. The area is open to bolting but please avoid any nesting sites of birds on the main crags.

== The Barn & Appin House ==
There is a barn in which we stay for R60 per night per person. Bunk beds, a gas stove, a fridge, firewood, hot water, hot showers and electricity are all provided. The barn can sleep about 20-25 people. You can also stay in the old farmhouse with bedding, kitchenware, a bar, a lapa and the works for R120 per person per night. The house sleeps about 12. There are now also rooms sleeping two with your own ablutions, bedding, kettle etc. also for R120 per person per night. The barn GPS is -28,22.877,29,16.576

== Food & Rest Day Stuff Etc. ==
The tiny town of Swinburne has a very basic shop and the 'Hound and Hare' restaurant and pub at the Riverview Country Lodge. There are several places to eat including a House of Coffees at the Montrose petrol station. A Steers can be found at the Caltex garage just after Montrose on the left. You can journey further into Harrismith to stock up on supplies or to go to their Spur or Nandos. Of course you could even give the 2-day hiking trail a bash or some of the shorter walks. The area is really beautiful with some small Yellowood forests, there is even a Bald Ibis Restaurant. This is also excellent mountain biking country.

== Safety & Medical ==
To date the area is very secure from theft etc. but please take the usual precautions. The soft sandstone rock tends to be quite soft and chunks can often break off. It is wise to use a helmet for belaying, especially on newer routes or when opening routes.The closest hospital is in Harrismith. At present there is no stretcher or first aid dump in the area. For serious accidents please call the MCSA Rescue team on 011 315-0203.

== Weather ==
Swinburne is within a few kilometres of the Drakensburg escarpment. As a result is attracts a variety of mountain weather. In other words it can be hot, cold, windy, misty or even snowy all in a day. Plan accordingly, bring sunblock, warm jackets, beanies etc.

== Ethics & Bolting ==
Testing was done on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes a certain kind of expansion bolt can be used. This was the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm, please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will NOT be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt can be used or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested.
Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts, there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Projects should be marked as such by placing the first bolt (preferably) or the top anchors and tying ribbon or tape around it. Since there are overseas visitors the usual 'I.P.' is often not understood.

== Route Guide ==

[[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Swinburne_route_guide.pdf Click here to download the Swinburne Route Guide]

[[Image:Swinburne_map.gif]]

Swinburne

2012-12-22T06:22:49Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -28.22877
| Longitude = 29.16576
| Climbing Type = Sport, Trad and Bouldering
| Rock Type = Sandstone (Soft)
| Season = All year round
| Province = Free State
| Area = Swineburne
}}

[[Category:Free State Climbing Areas]]

== Basic Info ==
Swinburne is a little village just off the N3, south of Harrismith. It is a very beautiful area strewn with good boulders, some with bolted routes. The main mountain, Rensburgkop also has multi-pitch sport routes. There is a huge potential for new routes and bouldering in this area.

The Main Mountain can be seen in the image to the right as well as the boulders scattered around it. Keep in mind that the mountain extends much further southward and offers much more rock than can be seen here.

Access
The crags and boulders are on private property which is shared by the Bald Ibis Hiking Trail. Please call ahead if you plan to visit. Sometimes hikers or events block book the barn. The house can also be booked. When staying in the 2-bed rooms, the kitchen in the main house is at your disposal.

PLEASE CALL Elzeri on 058 672-1013 or 084 516 6820 TO BOOK, BEFORE ARRIVING and to get directions. She is sometimes out of cell range, please be patient and try again. Alternatively, try Frans (manager) 072 708 5965.

Please pay before leaving or we could loose access to this crag. Ansie accepts internet payments, or pay her directly when you're there.

You will see some GPS co-ordinates listed for certain problems, they are all using WGS84/Hartebeeshoek94 datum, all degrees and decimal minutes South then East. The area is open to bolting but please avoid any nesting sites of birds on the main crags.

== The Barn & Appin House ==
There is a barn in which we stay for R60 per night per person. Bunk beds, a gas stove, a fridge, firewood, hot water, hot showers and electricity are all provided. The barn can sleep about 20-25 people. You can also stay in the old farmhouse with bedding, kitchenware, a bar, a lapa and the works for R120 per person per night. The house sleeps about 12. There are now also rooms sleeping two with your own ablutions, bedding, kettle etc. also for R120 per person per night. The barn GPS is -28,22.877,29,16.576

== Food & Rest Day Stuff Etc. ==
The tiny town of Swinburne has a very basic shop and the 'Hound and Hare' restaurant and pub at the Riverview Country Lodge. There are several places to eat including a House of Coffees at the Montrose petrol station. A Steers can be found at the Caltex garage just after Montrose on the left. You can journey further into Harrismith to stock up on supplies or to go to their Spur or Nandos. Of course you could even give the 2-day hiking trail a bash or some of the shorter walks. The area is really beautiful with some small Yellowood forests, there is even a Bald Ibis Restaurant. This is also excellent mountain biking country.

== Safety & Medical ==
To date the area is very secure from theft etc. but please take the usual precautions. The soft sandstone rock tends to be quite soft and chunks can often break off. It is wise to use a helmet for belaying, especially on newer routes or when opening routes.The closest hospital is in Harrismith. At present there is no stretcher or first aid dump in the area. For serious accidents please call the MCSA Rescue team on 011 315-0203.

== Weather ==
Swinburne is within a few kilometres of the Drakensburg escarpment. As a result is attracts a variety of mountain weather. In other words it can be hot, cold, windy, misty or even snowy all in a day. Plan accordingly, bring sunblock, warm jackets, beanies etc.

== Ethics & Bolting ==
Testing was done on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes a certain kind of expansion bolt can be used. This was the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm, please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will NOT be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt can be used or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested.
Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts, there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Projects should be marked as such by placing the first bolt (preferably) or the top anchors and tying ribbon or tape around it. Since there are overseas visitors the usual 'I.P.' is often not understood.

== Route Guide ==

[[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/Swinburne_route_guide.pdf Click here to download the Swinburne Route Guide]

[[Image:Swinburne_map.gif]]

Harrismith

2012-12-22T06:21:09Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -28.165111
| Longitude = 29.18228
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Sport & Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone/Dolerite
| Season = All year round
| Province = Free State
| Area = Harrismith

}}

[[Category:Free State Climbing Areas]]

[[File:20080413 harrismith.jpg]]

== For those of you who just want the PDF ==
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Harrismith_Mount_Everest_May_2012.pdf Click here to download the Harrismith Guide]

[[http://www.climbing.co.za/shop/order_eaglemountain.php Click here to purchase a printed copy of the Harrismith RD]]

Click here to download the bouldering guide for Mt Everest: [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/images/c/c6/Mt_Everest_Bouldering_Guide_%28May_2012%29.pdf Mt Everest Bouldering Guide (May 2012)]

== INTRODUCTION ==
This part of South Africa has some of the most dramatic and beautiful landscapes in the country. Views from the crags are huge, sweeping vistas of mountains and the endless Highveld plains under constantly changing skies; it is a must-climb for any south African or visiting climber!

There are currently about 140 fully bolted sport routes at Mount Everest. These range in grade from 7 to 29 (up to 7c+), the majority are below grade 20 (6b) so this is the perfect place for beginner and moderate grade climbers. There are more than a dozen fully bolted multi-pitch routes with 2 to 6 pitches, and about 20 trad routes for the adventurous. Then there is the POTENTIAL; there are dozens of unclimbed walls and boulders, lurking futuristic 30 somethings and easy stuff, just waiting to be developed. All this is located in a private game reserve with over a dozen types of antelope!
The rock is sandstone, much younger and quite a bit softer than the quartzites of Boven, the Magaliesberg or the Cape. It forms weird and wonderful shapes and is highly variable, from loose-ish shaley stuff to perfect pocketed solid and smooth walls. The climbing at the Dark Side is on dolerite, an igneous rock which forms columns and cracks, a very different experience.

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This guide is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources (see acknowledgments). However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will obviously become progressively more dated as time passes and climbers are personally responsible for ascertaining the situation and conditions prevailing at the time of their planned visit.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ==
From Gavin Peckham, "''The information in this guide has been obtained from various sources. These include the Mount Everest staff and the route book prepared by Ruth Behr from information collected by Clive Curson. This is available for inspection at the Reception and has subsequently been added to by many climbers. Further information was obtained from a guide of unspecified authorship that was published well over a decade ago. Alex Steyn, Jacques Raubenheimer and Gavin Raubenheimer provided information about many of the trad lines. Other assorted scraps of information were obtained from various climbers who I met at the crags.
We all owe a debt of gratitude to the various climbers who took the time, trouble and expense to bolt these routes and thus provide an excellent selection of safe climbing for the rest of us. In this regard, particular mention must be made of Mike Cartwright who put an enormous amount of time, effort and money into opening and bolting routes, especially in the initial stages of development at the venue. The following people have also made significant route opening and bolting contributions: Clive Curson, Grant Murray, Ian Guest, Mike Behr, Ruth Behr, Glen Harrison, Arno Naude, Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Gunther Migeotte, Gerhard Kruger, Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer. Sincere apologies to anyone who I might have missed.''"

== GETTING THERE ==
Mount Everest is located in the Free State just north of Harrismith. It is about 300 km southeast of Johannesburg and about 350 km northwest of Durban.

*'''From Durban:''' Follow the N3 and by-pass Harrismith on the ring-road. About 4 km north of the town, just past the top of a hill, the N3 intersects the R722. At this intersection there is a well sign-posted turnoff to the right labelled, "Verkykerskop". Follow this tarred road for about 13 km to a crossroad where it intersects with the S1204. At this intersection there is a "Mount Everest" sign. Turn right and follow the dirt road for about 5 km. The entrance to Mount Everest is a large, thatched gateway in a clump of trees on the right.

*'''From Johannesburg:''' Follow the N3 until you reach the small (hard to see turn off) for the S1204. This is a good gravel road, passable in all cars. Turn left onto this (toward the mountain!). After 500 m turn left again, then after 1 km turn right. Drive straight for 11 kilometres and you arrive at the cross-roads with the tar road (R722). Cross this and after 5 km you will arrive at the Mount Everest gate on the right. If you really don’t want to do the gravel or you miss the turn, continue to the R722 to "Verkykerskop" and follow the directions as from Durban. It is 17 kilometres longer.

== MAP ==
[[File:Harrismith guide 03.jpg]]

== Contact Details ==
The contact numbers are on the gate and you can ring one of these to gain access at any time. If you plan to arrive after dark, then please pre-arrange this with the owner.

Contact Details: Mount Everest
Tel: 0823005999 or 0836682472
E-mail: [mailto:info@goeverest.co.za info@goeverest.co.za] or [mailto:amanda.weyers70@gmail.com amanda.weyers70@gmail.com]
Web: [[http://www.goeverest.co.za www.goeverest.co.za]]

== ACCOMODATION AND FACILITIES ==
Campsites, caravan sites and self-catering chalets are available at very fair prices. You can obtain more information using the contact details given above. The chalets vary in size and sleep between 4 and 12 people; they are all of timber and really comfortable, some tucked up in the hillsides amongst the rocks, with amazing views. Booking is advisable if you want to make use of a chalet, but is not necessary if you are only planning to camp. All buildings and chalets are "SMOKE FREE" zones !

Please note that the resort does not have a restaurant, pub or TV facilities or a shop; for all of these you will have to go to Harrismith or one of the service stations on the N3 highway. Apart from rock climbing, you can hike or ride along a variety of trails (with your own mountain bike) or fish for bass in the dams (with your own rods). The setting is magnificent and the views are stunning, especially from the tops of the mountains. The bird watching is excellent and there is a good stock of various antelope.

== CLIMBING SAFETY ==
* The rock is soft and pieces do come off, small and large! Climbers and belayers should wear helmets. If you are watching don’t sit/stand below the climber and if you are belaying stay away from the ‘fall zone’ if you can, certainly if the climber is on a potentially loose section.

* Always double check your harness and knots and your belayer! And check your partners knots when it’s his/her time to climb.

* Walking along the top and reaching down to chains is dangerous; this is when accidents happen! If you are trying to retrieve gear or place draws from the top be very careful or reconsider.

* Some of the bolts are getting old, be wary with very rusty ones, especially chains!

* Never rely upon a single bolt. If you are unable to reach the chains and need to clean the climb, sacrifice two ‘bail biners’ and thread the rope through a bail biner clipped to the previous bolts as a back-up to the one you are lowering off.

* Watch out for others...if they are in a dangerous position tell them. Tell other climbers if they are doing something that is risky, they may be inexperienced.

'''The crags are NOT yours!! This special place must be treated with respect; not doing so could easily result in the closure of the crags. Please do your bit and stick to the following rules:'''

==RULES==
1. Climbers must report to reception on arrival and again before leaving the resort. No climbing is allowed on the climbing wall unless the prescribed fees have been paid. No climbing is allowed after sundown. No climbing at all is allowed at the Bushman Complex.

2. No pets (this is a game reserve, full of animals), loud music or open fires except in designated braai areas.

3. Camping is permitted only in the designated areas.

4. '''Do not drop any litter''', however small, '''including cigarette butts, finger tape''' and tissue paper! Take all this rubbish home with you. If you find rubbish, please pick it up, you are helping us all.

5. If you must take a crap at the crag, '''go at least 30 metres down-hill''' and away from the cliff and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt, sticks, rocks afterwards. Never do your business in a cave or corner. Do not leave toilet paper lying around; it must be buried or carry it out.

6. If you take a pee, '''do not''' do it close to the cliff, make sure it’s in a place that is not sheltered from rain, otherwise it stinks.

7. Small tick dots are fine but '''tick marks over 3 cm are an eyesore''' and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. Brush them off afterwards! Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route, especially if it’s a route that is sheltered from rain.

8. '''NEVER use wire brushes!!''' They will destroy this rock. A soft toothbrush is fine.

9. Respect others; try not to be too loud and think carefully about smoking, bringing your dogs or crying children to the crags; these things can spoil the pleasure for others.

10. ‘IP’ written on the rock in chalk or a piece of tape/plastic on the first bolt means the route is ‘In Progress’ and the route is a '''closed project'''. Do not try these climbs unless you have permission from the ‘’owner’’.

11. Do not remove other peoples draws from a route even if they have been hanging there for weeks. Some locals like to leave projects clipped-up. You may of course climb the routes using the draws left up.

12. If a section of rock is marked with an X, written in chalk, don’t touch those features as the X indicates that the rock is loose. Don’t try knock it off.

== WEATHER ==
You can have perfect conditions all year-round by choosing the right time at the right crag and by having the right clothes. Mt Everest is at 2000 metres above seal level. Summer here is warm but up to 10 degrees cooler (15 to 25 degrees) than places like Boven or the Durban crags (25 to >35 degrees). During summer storms build almost daily, but the rock dries very quickly; just run for cover when the storm gets close then enjoy the show! Winters days are usually magnificent, cold but sunny days and cold nights; daytime temps as little as 10 degree in the shade and plummeting to zero or well below at night. Winter snowfalls are not unknown. Occasional cold fronts sometimes bring cold, wet weather for several days at a time, just check the weather. The weather can be unpredictable and can deteriorate rapidly, it has a real mountain feel. But this is Africa, not Europe or North America; despite the grumbles of south African climbers the weather pretty amazing really! The wind can sometimes howl for hours, even on otherwise pleasant days. Fortunately, the various climbing areas have different aspects and you can usually find somewhere to escape from the wind, the cold or the sun.
'''Please go prepared for any eventuality!'''

== THE ROCK ==
The sandstones forming the cliffs belong to the 170 million year old Clarens Formation (or Cave Sandstone), belonging to the Karoo Supergroup. These rocks were laid down in an aeolian (desert) setting which arose during a period of climate warming and desiccation (imagine!). The cliffs were massive sand-dunes in a sand sea! Sometimes you will see funny grey blobs or pockets where these blobs have been dissolved; these blobs are carbonate nodules. The rock is mostly solid, especially up on the Eagles Head. However, always be slightly wary of loose looking flakes, large and small! Give them a tap; if it sounds hollow be very careful, expect the worst!
Above the sandstone of the Mooinoek Mountain you will see a thick grey-brown cap of dolerite. This is younger than the sandstone and was ‘intruded’ as sheets of molten rock into the sandstone, feeding the massive lava flows that formed overlying basalts (now eroded but preserved in the Drakensberg, forming the big dark cliffs there). The dolerite is a very hard crystalline green rock and typically forms huge columns with cracks.

== BOULDERING ==
Click here to download the bouldering guide for Mt Everest: [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/images/c/c6/Mt_Everest_Bouldering_Guide_%28May_2012%29.pdf Mt Everest Bouldering Guide (May 2012)]

I compiled this guide from the topos used during the 2009 NBL Finals held at Mt. Everest. Thanks to Dave Drummond and his team for establishing most of the problems and for writing them up. This guide is still incomplete. I am looking for the last couple of topos and all the route names and FAs. If you know a route's name or want to give it one, write it up on the wiki under new route info and I'll add it to the guide.

There is much good bouldering to be had at Mount Everest. Although bouldering at the resort is still in its infancy, over 120 problems have already been developed. The boulders are scattered throughout the resort but the main concentration is located in the vicinity of Cyclops Crag and Eagle Crag.
There is a wide variety of problems from low roofs to high slabs. Grades vary from very easy (3) to very hard (7c) with some even harder open projects. Although a bouldering pad is required for some of the problems, many can be climbed with only a spotter.
'''Climbing and bouldering in the Bushman Complex is strictly prohibited !'''

== NEW ROUTE INFO AND CORRECTIONS ==
Many of the RDs are rather vague. Some of them have been written down by the first ascentionists long after they were first opened. There are a few instances where I (Gavin Peckham) have received RDs for the same route from different sources and they did not even agree on the total number of pitches, let alone the details for any individual pitch! So, I'd be grateful if you can help by supplying any corrections, suggestions, useful information or constructive criticism.
More specifically, if you climb any route and find that the RDs or topos are vague, ambiguous or incorrect, then please undate this wiki. This will be greatly appreciated and will hopefully be of benefit and future service to climbers.

== Overview Map ==
[[File:Harrismith guide 05.gif]]
*[[Harrismith]]
**[[Eagle Mountain]]
***[[Comfort Zone]]
***[[Eagle Crag]]
***[[Eagle's Head]]
***[[The Nursery]]
**[[Mooihoek Mountain]]
***[[Betty's Boulder]]
***[[Comic Rock]]
***[[Happy Camper Boulder]]
***[[Picnic Boulder]]
***[[Serengeti Slab]]
***[[Slag Crag]]
***[[The Dark Side]]
***[[Wish You Were Here Face]]
**[[Mount Everest]]
***[[Alternative Rock]]
***[[Bonni Boulder]]
***[[Bushman Complex]]
***[[Central East Face]]
***[[Cyclops Crag]]
***[[Deep Freeze Boulder]]
***[[Fatter Pillar]]
***[[Gypsy Crag]]
***[[Heffalump Boulder]]
***[[Horned Toad Boulder]]
***[[Ostrich Egg Boulder]]
***[[Pocket City]]
***[[Refrigerator Boulder]]
***[[Sundeck Boulder]]
***[[The Far Side]]
***[[Thinner Pillar]]

>> Back to [[Free State]] page

Harrismith

2012-12-22T06:13:40Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -28.165111
| Longitude = 29.18228
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Sport & Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone/Dolerite
| Season = All year round
| Province = Free State
| Area = Harrismith

}}

[[Category:Free State]]

[[File:20080413 harrismith.jpg]]

== For those of you who just want the PDF ==
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Harrismith_Mount_Everest_May_2012.pdf Click here to download the Harrismith Guide]

[[http://www.climbing.co.za/shop/order_eaglemountain.php Click here to purchase a printed copy of the Harrismith RD]]

Click here to download the bouldering guide for Mt Everest: [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/images/c/c6/Mt_Everest_Bouldering_Guide_%28May_2012%29.pdf Mt Everest Bouldering Guide (May 2012)]

== INTRODUCTION ==
This part of South Africa has some of the most dramatic and beautiful landscapes in the country. Views from the crags are huge, sweeping vistas of mountains and the endless Highveld plains under constantly changing skies; it is a must-climb for any south African or visiting climber!

There are currently about 140 fully bolted sport routes at Mount Everest. These range in grade from 7 to 29 (up to 7c+), the majority are below grade 20 (6b) so this is the perfect place for beginner and moderate grade climbers. There are more than a dozen fully bolted multi-pitch routes with 2 to 6 pitches, and about 20 trad routes for the adventurous. Then there is the POTENTIAL; there are dozens of unclimbed walls and boulders, lurking futuristic 30 somethings and easy stuff, just waiting to be developed. All this is located in a private game reserve with over a dozen types of antelope!
The rock is sandstone, much younger and quite a bit softer than the quartzites of Boven, the Magaliesberg or the Cape. It forms weird and wonderful shapes and is highly variable, from loose-ish shaley stuff to perfect pocketed solid and smooth walls. The climbing at the Dark Side is on dolerite, an igneous rock which forms columns and cracks, a very different experience.

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This guide is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources (see acknowledgments). However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will obviously become progressively more dated as time passes and climbers are personally responsible for ascertaining the situation and conditions prevailing at the time of their planned visit.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ==
From Gavin Peckham, "''The information in this guide has been obtained from various sources. These include the Mount Everest staff and the route book prepared by Ruth Behr from information collected by Clive Curson. This is available for inspection at the Reception and has subsequently been added to by many climbers. Further information was obtained from a guide of unspecified authorship that was published well over a decade ago. Alex Steyn, Jacques Raubenheimer and Gavin Raubenheimer provided information about many of the trad lines. Other assorted scraps of information were obtained from various climbers who I met at the crags.
We all owe a debt of gratitude to the various climbers who took the time, trouble and expense to bolt these routes and thus provide an excellent selection of safe climbing for the rest of us. In this regard, particular mention must be made of Mike Cartwright who put an enormous amount of time, effort and money into opening and bolting routes, especially in the initial stages of development at the venue. The following people have also made significant route opening and bolting contributions: Clive Curson, Grant Murray, Ian Guest, Mike Behr, Ruth Behr, Glen Harrison, Arno Naude, Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Gunther Migeotte, Gerhard Kruger, Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer. Sincere apologies to anyone who I might have missed.''"

== GETTING THERE ==
Mount Everest is located in the Free State just north of Harrismith. It is about 300 km southeast of Johannesburg and about 350 km northwest of Durban.

*'''From Durban:''' Follow the N3 and by-pass Harrismith on the ring-road. About 4 km north of the town, just past the top of a hill, the N3 intersects the R722. At this intersection there is a well sign-posted turnoff to the right labelled, "Verkykerskop". Follow this tarred road for about 13 km to a crossroad where it intersects with the S1204. At this intersection there is a "Mount Everest" sign. Turn right and follow the dirt road for about 5 km. The entrance to Mount Everest is a large, thatched gateway in a clump of trees on the right.

*'''From Johannesburg:''' Follow the N3 until you reach the small (hard to see turn off) for the S1204. This is a good gravel road, passable in all cars. Turn left onto this (toward the mountain!). After 500 m turn left again, then after 1 km turn right. Drive straight for 11 kilometres and you arrive at the cross-roads with the tar road (R722). Cross this and after 5 km you will arrive at the Mount Everest gate on the right. If you really don’t want to do the gravel or you miss the turn, continue to the R722 to "Verkykerskop" and follow the directions as from Durban. It is 17 kilometres longer.

== MAP ==
[[File:Harrismith guide 03.jpg]]

== Contact Details ==
The contact numbers are on the gate and you can ring one of these to gain access at any time. If you plan to arrive after dark, then please pre-arrange this with the owner.

Contact Details: Mount Everest
Tel: 0823005999 or 0836682472
E-mail: [mailto:info@goeverest.co.za info@goeverest.co.za] or [mailto:amanda.weyers70@gmail.com amanda.weyers70@gmail.com]
Web: [[http://www.goeverest.co.za www.goeverest.co.za]]

== ACCOMODATION AND FACILITIES ==
Campsites, caravan sites and self-catering chalets are available at very fair prices. You can obtain more information using the contact details given above. The chalets vary in size and sleep between 4 and 12 people; they are all of timber and really comfortable, some tucked up in the hillsides amongst the rocks, with amazing views. Booking is advisable if you want to make use of a chalet, but is not necessary if you are only planning to camp. All buildings and chalets are "SMOKE FREE" zones !

Please note that the resort does not have a restaurant, pub or TV facilities or a shop; for all of these you will have to go to Harrismith or one of the service stations on the N3 highway. Apart from rock climbing, you can hike or ride along a variety of trails (with your own mountain bike) or fish for bass in the dams (with your own rods). The setting is magnificent and the views are stunning, especially from the tops of the mountains. The bird watching is excellent and there is a good stock of various antelope.

== CLIMBING SAFETY ==
* The rock is soft and pieces do come off, small and large! Climbers and belayers should wear helmets. If you are watching don’t sit/stand below the climber and if you are belaying stay away from the ‘fall zone’ if you can, certainly if the climber is on a potentially loose section.

* Always double check your harness and knots and your belayer! And check your partners knots when it’s his/her time to climb.

* Walking along the top and reaching down to chains is dangerous; this is when accidents happen! If you are trying to retrieve gear or place draws from the top be very careful or reconsider.

* Some of the bolts are getting old, be wary with very rusty ones, especially chains!

* Never rely upon a single bolt. If you are unable to reach the chains and need to clean the climb, sacrifice two ‘bail biners’ and thread the rope through a bail biner clipped to the previous bolts as a back-up to the one you are lowering off.

* Watch out for others...if they are in a dangerous position tell them. Tell other climbers if they are doing something that is risky, they may be inexperienced.

'''The crags are NOT yours!! This special place must be treated with respect; not doing so could easily result in the closure of the crags. Please do your bit and stick to the following rules:'''

==RULES==
1. Climbers must report to reception on arrival and again before leaving the resort. No climbing is allowed on the climbing wall unless the prescribed fees have been paid. No climbing is allowed after sundown. No climbing at all is allowed at the Bushman Complex.

2. No pets (this is a game reserve, full of animals), loud music or open fires except in designated braai areas.

3. Camping is permitted only in the designated areas.

4. '''Do not drop any litter''', however small, '''including cigarette butts, finger tape''' and tissue paper! Take all this rubbish home with you. If you find rubbish, please pick it up, you are helping us all.

5. If you must take a crap at the crag, '''go at least 30 metres down-hill''' and away from the cliff and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt, sticks, rocks afterwards. Never do your business in a cave or corner. Do not leave toilet paper lying around; it must be buried or carry it out.

6. If you take a pee, '''do not''' do it close to the cliff, make sure it’s in a place that is not sheltered from rain, otherwise it stinks.

7. Small tick dots are fine but '''tick marks over 3 cm are an eyesore''' and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. Brush them off afterwards! Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route, especially if it’s a route that is sheltered from rain.

8. '''NEVER use wire brushes!!''' They will destroy this rock. A soft toothbrush is fine.

9. Respect others; try not to be too loud and think carefully about smoking, bringing your dogs or crying children to the crags; these things can spoil the pleasure for others.

10. ‘IP’ written on the rock in chalk or a piece of tape/plastic on the first bolt means the route is ‘In Progress’ and the route is a '''closed project'''. Do not try these climbs unless you have permission from the ‘’owner’’.

11. Do not remove other peoples draws from a route even if they have been hanging there for weeks. Some locals like to leave projects clipped-up. You may of course climb the routes using the draws left up.

12. If a section of rock is marked with an X, written in chalk, don’t touch those features as the X indicates that the rock is loose. Don’t try knock it off.

== WEATHER ==
You can have perfect conditions all year-round by choosing the right time at the right crag and by having the right clothes. Mt Everest is at 2000 metres above seal level. Summer here is warm but up to 10 degrees cooler (15 to 25 degrees) than places like Boven or the Durban crags (25 to >35 degrees). During summer storms build almost daily, but the rock dries very quickly; just run for cover when the storm gets close then enjoy the show! Winters days are usually magnificent, cold but sunny days and cold nights; daytime temps as little as 10 degree in the shade and plummeting to zero or well below at night. Winter snowfalls are not unknown. Occasional cold fronts sometimes bring cold, wet weather for several days at a time, just check the weather. The weather can be unpredictable and can deteriorate rapidly, it has a real mountain feel. But this is Africa, not Europe or North America; despite the grumbles of south African climbers the weather pretty amazing really! The wind can sometimes howl for hours, even on otherwise pleasant days. Fortunately, the various climbing areas have different aspects and you can usually find somewhere to escape from the wind, the cold or the sun.
'''Please go prepared for any eventuality!'''

== THE ROCK ==
The sandstones forming the cliffs belong to the 170 million year old Clarens Formation (or Cave Sandstone), belonging to the Karoo Supergroup. These rocks were laid down in an aeolian (desert) setting which arose during a period of climate warming and desiccation (imagine!). The cliffs were massive sand-dunes in a sand sea! Sometimes you will see funny grey blobs or pockets where these blobs have been dissolved; these blobs are carbonate nodules. The rock is mostly solid, especially up on the Eagles Head. However, always be slightly wary of loose looking flakes, large and small! Give them a tap; if it sounds hollow be very careful, expect the worst!
Above the sandstone of the Mooinoek Mountain you will see a thick grey-brown cap of dolerite. This is younger than the sandstone and was ‘intruded’ as sheets of molten rock into the sandstone, feeding the massive lava flows that formed overlying basalts (now eroded but preserved in the Drakensberg, forming the big dark cliffs there). The dolerite is a very hard crystalline green rock and typically forms huge columns with cracks.

== BOULDERING ==
Click here to download the bouldering guide for Mt Everest: [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/images/c/c6/Mt_Everest_Bouldering_Guide_%28May_2012%29.pdf Mt Everest Bouldering Guide (May 2012)]

I compiled this guide from the topos used during the 2009 NBL Finals held at Mt. Everest. Thanks to Dave Drummond and his team for establishing most of the problems and for writing them up. This guide is still incomplete. I am looking for the last couple of topos and all the route names and FAs. If you know a route's name or want to give it one, write it up on the wiki under new route info and I'll add it to the guide.

There is much good bouldering to be had at Mount Everest. Although bouldering at the resort is still in its infancy, over 120 problems have already been developed. The boulders are scattered throughout the resort but the main concentration is located in the vicinity of Cyclops Crag and Eagle Crag.
There is a wide variety of problems from low roofs to high slabs. Grades vary from very easy (3) to very hard (7c) with some even harder open projects. Although a bouldering pad is required for some of the problems, many can be climbed with only a spotter.
'''Climbing and bouldering in the Bushman Complex is strictly prohibited !'''

== NEW ROUTE INFO AND CORRECTIONS ==
Many of the RDs are rather vague. Some of them have been written down by the first ascentionists long after they were first opened. There are a few instances where I (Gavin Peckham) have received RDs for the same route from different sources and they did not even agree on the total number of pitches, let alone the details for any individual pitch! So, I'd be grateful if you can help by supplying any corrections, suggestions, useful information or constructive criticism.
More specifically, if you climb any route and find that the RDs or topos are vague, ambiguous or incorrect, then please undate this wiki. This will be greatly appreciated and will hopefully be of benefit and future service to climbers.

== Overview Map ==
[[File:Harrismith guide 05.gif]]
*[[Harrismith]]
**[[Eagle Mountain]]
***[[Comfort Zone]]
***[[Eagle Crag]]
***[[Eagle's Head]]
***[[The Nursery]]
**[[Mooihoek Mountain]]
***[[Betty's Boulder]]
***[[Comic Rock]]
***[[Happy Camper Boulder]]
***[[Picnic Boulder]]
***[[Serengeti Slab]]
***[[Slag Crag]]
***[[The Dark Side]]
***[[Wish You Were Here Face]]
**[[Mount Everest]]
***[[Alternative Rock]]
***[[Bonni Boulder]]
***[[Bushman Complex]]
***[[Central East Face]]
***[[Cyclops Crag]]
***[[Deep Freeze Boulder]]
***[[Fatter Pillar]]
***[[Gypsy Crag]]
***[[Heffalump Boulder]]
***[[Horned Toad Boulder]]
***[[Ostrich Egg Boulder]]
***[[Pocket City]]
***[[Refrigerator Boulder]]
***[[Sundeck Boulder]]
***[[The Far Side]]
***[[Thinner Pillar]]

>> Back to [[Free State]] page

File:20080413 harrismith.jpg

2012-12-22T06:12:42Z

Toprope:

Rocklands

2012-12-22T05:45:53Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -32.14524
| Longitude = 19.033785
| Climbing Type = Bouldering & Sport
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season = Autumn, Winter, Spring
| Province = Western Cape
| Area = Rocklands

}}

Rocklands is undoubtedly famous for it's world class bouldering but this should not deter you from sampling the fine sport climbing. There is a large variety of quality climbing of all grades in both bouldering and sport climbing. All the sport routes are single pitch and you will have to do a small amount of walking to get to the different areas. Most of the original climbing is situated on Cape Nature Conservation (CNC) land and thus day permits must be obtained or a Wildcard from Cape Town or Porterville (small detour off the N7 on the way up). Many of the newer areas being developed are on private farms some which have small (30-40 rand)day fees.

== How to get there ==
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, take the N7 turnoff towards Malmesbury. Follow the N7 north for roughly 200km, eventually you come across a large dam after which you take the R364 turnoff towards Clanwilliam. Turn right at the T-junction and continue straight passed the town and up a small pass reaching a dirt road which is followed for about 16km until you hit another tar road. This is followed to the top off the pass where you'll spot a dirt road on the right. Park here and walk...

== Getting around ==
A car allows one to access the full range of areas in Rocklands. The bouldering is spread out along around 20 km of road. After parking there are generally with a number of clustered different sectors within walking distance of each other. Assuming one could get to the DePakhuys campsite, it would be possible to climb there without a car (300 or so problems within walking distance of the campground), though getting to town for supplies (26km) could be difficult unless other climbers provide transportation.

= Fees & Permits =

= Accommodation & Food =
Clanwilliam is the nearest town to resupply and is located about 20 minutes back down the road. It has everything you'll need in terms of camping, internet, restaurants and food but no climbing gear. Beancas currently has three computers for internet (slow but not horribly so)and the the gas station before the Shell has two.

Climbers generally either rent a house/cottage or camp. Most of the campground have cottages available for rent.

Currently, as of August 2008, the camping based climbing scene is centered at De Pakhuys with a large number of international climbers staying here. [http://www.depakhuys.com De Pakhuys] (phone 027 482 1468 or 027 482 1879) offers camping and cottages. It is 26km from Clanwilliam on the right after the paved road turns to dirt again, and [[De Pakhuys|bouldering area]] is on the farm. As of August 2008, camping is 40 Rand a night with a discount of 10 Rand if you stay over 7 days. There are flush toilets, hot showers, electricity, a fridge, sinks for dishwashing, a covered communal braai (BBQ) area, firewood, and wi-fi at the campsite. The camping also includes free access to the [[De Pakhuys|bouldering areas]] surrounding the campground, which normally has a fee of 30 Rand for access. Chalk can be purchased here and bouldering mats are for hire.

[http://www.alphaexcelsior.co.za/ Alpha Excelsior Guest Farm] is also a great alternative. It is down the other side of the pass about 1km from the ending of the tar road. Accommodation consists of self catering cottages (with optional breakfast) at R400 to R600 per cottage per night (April 2006). Contact Connie and Liz at conniedt@worldonline.co.za or phone 027 482 2700.

Another alternative is Klein Kliphuis (phone 027 482 2564) which offers camping and self-catering accommodation. Klein Kliphuis is about 11km from Clanwilliam (i.e., closer to Clanwilliam than the Kliphuis campsite). Rates are R30 per person per night (August 2008). This campsite is less sheltered from wind than the Kliphuis campsite.

If it opens again, the best place to stay would be the Kliphuis campsite (sites are R90/night). The campsite is just next to the Pakhuis Pass directly after the road changes from dirt to pavement at about 17km. Unfortunately, this campsite is currently closed (July 2007, August 2008). From talking to the farmer across the road it sounds like the campground will be closed until new management is found.

There are a number of supermarkets and restaurants in Clanwilliam, about 17km away. The supermarkets generally close around 7pm though basic supplies can be purchased at the gas station next to DeKelders until 9pm. There is also a butcher selling fresh meat, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biltong biltong] and even Ostrich Eggs (feeds 9 people) in town that closes at 5pm.

Cooking equipment can be purchased in Clanwilliam. The fuels Benzene, also known as white gas, and Paraffin, known as Kerosene can be bought in small quantities at the SuperSpar supermarket on the main street in town. Bulk quantities can be purchased at AgriMark, also known as the co-op which is on the right fork of the main road near the PriceClub supermarket. Gas-cartridges can be purchased there as well.

There are also a couple of restaurants in Clanwilliam with the 'Olifants Huis' (steak & pasta), Beancas (pizza & coffee) and De Kelder (burgers, beer & pizza)being my favorites.

The campsites also sell minimal amounts of basics at exhorbitant prices.

= Attractions & Activities =

= Map =
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-32.176484,18.891306||Clanwilliam
-32.149582,19.029239||Parking for [[:Category:Rocklands Sport Climbing]]
-32.138754,19.011923|Kliphuis Campsite
-32.164388,19.036406||Cedar Rouge
-32.164551,19.035612||Cattle Rustler & Orange Plasma
-32.160446,19.035891||The Island
</display_points>

 

= Closures =

*Black Shadow area

The Black Shadow area in Rocklands has been closed down due to graffiti on the boulders. MCSA is in communication with Klein Kliphuis and will be working on regaining access to this area via more effective means of keeping it clean and looking after it. In the meantime, we ask that you please do not climb at the Black Shadow area until further notice and kindly inform any other boulderers you meet who are intending to go there who might not be aware of the closure. We appreciate your compliance with the decision of the landowners to close this area for the time being.

== Classic Routes==
* Rubik's Cube (19)
* The Arête/ First Impressions (21)
* Orange Plasma (21)
* Ceder Rouge (24)
* Cattle Rustler (20)

== Rocklands Sport Climbing Areas ==
[[Rocklands Sport Climbing]] - Park as for Roadside Bouldering
* Crags included: Adultworld, Biscuit Wall, Black Slab, Cattle Rustler Area, Cedar Rouge Boulder, Chappelle Rock, Orange Plasma Wall, Outback Area, Rubik's Cube Wall, Skinner Boulder, Sunblock, The Bastille, The Fortress, The Island, Wildwest Wall

== Bouldering Areas ==
=== Road Crew|Bouldering - Road Crew ===
=== [[De Pakhuys|Bouldering - De Pakhuys]] ===

== Photos ==

[[Image:Rocklands1.jpg]]

[[Image:Rocklands2.jpg]]

== More Info==
Some of the routes (e.g. Alto Rouge 27 on the Sun Block) have really dodgy bolts. Be careful!

== Bolting ==
Bolting is allowed at Rocklands however a process needs to be followed - failure to comply to these regulations will result in the area being closed.
The procedure to bolt in Rocklands can be found here: http://alewis.its.uct.ac.za/mcsa/rock/manplan.html

>> Back to [[Western Cape]] page

[[Category: Western Cape]]

Rocklands Sport Climbing

2012-12-22T05:40:26Z

Toprope:

= Wildwest Wall =

This is the first wall as you walk in on your left (walk in takes 10 minutes from the gate))

[[Image:wild_west_wall_rocklands_.jpg]]

'''Routes'''
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|Lone Star
|19
|
|
|Amrei von Hase - 2007
|
|-
|2
|Hand jobs for holidays
|25
|
|
|Scott Miller - 2007
|
|-
|3
|Wild Bill Hitchcock
|26
|
|
|Paul Schlotfeldt - 1994
|
|-
|4
|Riding Shotgun
|24
|
|
|Mike Roberts - 1994
|
|-
|5
|Geronimo
|24
|
|
|Mike Roberts - 1994
|
|-
|6
|Bullet the blue sky
|24
|
|
|Malcolm Gowans - 2007
|
|-
|7
|Bullet the blue sky
|20
|
|
|Malcolm Gowans - 2007
|
|}

= Biscuit Wall =
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|Brandy Snaps
|6c/23
|5B
|
|1995 M Roberts
|
|-
|2
|Vanity Affair
|6a/19
|5B
|
|1995 R Quick
|
|}

To the right facing the road three new routes from right to left.
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|Start the Wave
|16
|
|
|S Miller
|
|-
|2
|Bandwidth
|19
|
|
|S Miller
|
|-
|3
|Sea Legs
|23
|
|
|S Miller
|
|}

= The Island =
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|Wet Pups
|5-/16
|5B
|
|1993 M Roberts
|
|-
|2
|Cracker
|17
|
|
|2007 S Miller
|
|-
|3
|Squeeze Play
|17/18
|
|
|2009 S Miller
|
|-
|4
|The Arête/ First Impressions
|6b/21
|5B
|
|1992 J Fisher / Original Name: First Impressions, FA Natural 1990, J Fisher/ R Suter
|
|-
|5
|Casting Illusions
|6a+/19
|6B
|
|1993 M Roberts
|
|-
|6
|Thoughtless Wanders
|6a/18
|6B
|
|1993 M Roberts
|
|}

= Black Slab =
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|Beam me up skhatie
|21
|
|
|
|
|-
|2
|Future Shock
|24
|
|
|
|
|}

[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/rocklands.pdf Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab] NB: this is a 217kb PDF

= Chappelle Rock =
# Greys Anatomy 17
# Orange Juice Jones 17
# I’m Rick James, Bitch! 21

[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/rocklands.pdf Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab] NB: this is a 217kb PDF

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Skinner Boulder =
# Skinless Arete 31
# Cowboy UP! 22
# Buckaroo 20
# USDA Prime 18
# Slap Happy 20
# Hot Pockets 21
# Cedars Arete 19

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Cedar Rouge Boulder =
# Chenin Blanc 6c/23 5B 1993 A Lainis
# Chateux Waga Waga 7b+/27 7B 1993 J Fisher
# Cedar Rouge 6c+/24 5B 1992 Paul Schlotfeldt
# Sauvignon Plonk 7a+/26 5B 1993 Dave Davies
# Bukketaube 7a/24 6B 1993 Paul Schlotfeldt

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Orange Plasma Wall =
32 09 52.8S 19 02 07.8E
* '''Orange Plasma''' 22
* '''Testarossa''' 26/27? - right hand route on Orange Plasma Wall - up the blank red wall on small crimps then through the heucos. Climb it like you drive the car, else it will spank you. 20m

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Cattle Rustler Area =
# Fickle Sickle 21 7b S Miller July 2010 (About 60 meters to the left and around the corner from Cattle rustler)
# Enter the Ninja 20 13b **28meters** S Miller May 2010 (About 50 meters to the left and around the corner from Cattle rustler)
# Cattle Rustler 6a+/20 6B 1994 D Shewell
# Cattle Hustler 24 S Miller Dec 09
# Hearing Damage 24 S Miller Dec 09
# Lefty Loosy 20 S Miller Dec 09
# Righty Tighty 19 S Miller Dec 09
# Sidewinder 7a+/26 6B 1995 Sean Maasch

[[File:Newroutescattlerustler.jpg]]

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Sunblock =
The Sunblock is about 50m to the right of the Orange Plasma Wall.
Routes from left to right:
* '''Alto Rouge''' 27 FA: Paul Schlotfelt, 1993
* '''A River Runs Through It''' 27 Deon Hugo, 2007
* '''Afterburn''' 26 Jeremy Samson, 2007
* '''Phalic Tan''' 30 FA: Jeremy Samson, 2005
* '''Blockout''' 26 FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994
* '''Coppertone''' 28 FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994
* '''Factor 15''' 29 FA: Todd Skinner, 1992

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Rubik's Cube Wall =
Routes from left to right:
# Smooth and Groovy 17 7B and anchors, FA: Bradley Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008
# ? 19 7B and anchors, FA:
# Rubik's Cube 19 6B and anchors, FA: Mike Roberts, 1992
# Crockett Rocket 22 7B and anchors, FA: Dave Davies, 1994
# ? 18 8B and anchors, FA:

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Outback Area =
# Billy the Kid 21 7B D Shewell 1994
# Stranger than Technicians 28 9B A De Klerk 1994

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= The Bastille =
[[Image:Gd_wc_TheBastille.jpg]]

# Unnamed#1 25 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
# Unnamed#2 23 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
# Unnamed#3 23 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
# Unnamed#4 22 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
# Unnamed#5 20 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
# Unnamed#6 17 2005 a visiting Swiss climber

[[Media:ClimbZA_BastilleV2.pdf‎]]

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= The Fortress =
# Backwater Utopia 6c+/23+ 8B 1992 J Samson, BB D Davies
# Magic Mushrooms 7c/28 8B 1994 Sean Maasch
# Soviet Dancer 7b/26 7B 1993 Sean Maasch
The Fortress Slab
# Braille Trail 6c+/24 4B 1993 Sean Maasch

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|
|
|
|
|
|
|}

= Adultworld =
Overhanging
45 Minute Uphill walk
GPS: -32.158538,19.025484
This fun little crag has been gagging to be climbed as it involves some titilating jug fondling. It has a pleasant base which provides ample room and positions for spectators to watch the climbers grunt and pant through these highly satisfying routes. It was discovered by Andy Davies and overhangs about 8m in 24m – don’t be fooled by the picture alongside.

== How to get there ==
At Rocklands, walk up to Bastille and then carry on West past the “Vice” overhang on your right through some boulders to “Armed Response”. Proceed South up a gentle slope along the faint path through more boulders for 100m and you will see the wall.

== Topo ==
[[File:Adultworld.jpg]]

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# BOLTS
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|-
|1
|Karma Sutra
|23
|
|
|equipped Andy & Esme Davies
|left hand route on AdultWorld - start off the block, up the groove with some interesting body positions then through the roof. 20m
|-
|2
|Just Push Play
|24
|
|
|equipped Andy & Esme Davies
|
|-
|3
|Stokstyf
|23
|
|
|equipped Andy & Esme Davies
|
|-
|4
|Naughty Housewives III
|22
|
|
|equipped Andy & Esme Davies
|
|-
|5
|Loslyf
|21
|
|
|equipped Andy & Esme Davies
|
|}

[[Category:Rocklands]]

Category:Rocklands

2012-12-22T05:39:32Z

Toprope: Replaced content with "Category:Western Cape"

[[Category:Western Cape]]

South African Climbing Wiki

2012-12-12T10:23:48Z

Toprope:

Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

Route/area guides are sorted into local areas per province, select the province below or select the exact area directly from the map below. You will be linked through to all the climbing related information including online route guides, climber recommended accommodation listings as well as other relevant stuff. For areas where there is a purchasable printed guide, we also provide a link to where the book can be bought.

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and should not be done without proper instruction. Please read our DISCLAIMER [http://www.climbing.co.za/disclaimer/ here] and below before reading or using any of our information.

Please help us to keep this site up to date and accurate! Any new routes, changes or images can be immediately update here by directly editing the Climb ZA wiki. (That way the info won’t be sitting around until a new guide may or may not be published.) To edit the wiki you need to have a [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ Climb ZA Forum] user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us an email with your Climb ZA Forum user name to [mailto:info@climbing.co.za?Subject=Please%20Add%20me%20to%20the%20Wiki%20Group%20&body=My%20Username%20is: info@climbing.co.za] and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

We use certain [http://www.climbing.co.za/climbing-routes-codes-conventions/ codes & conventions] – please check them out to better understand the guides. Have a look at our [http://www.climbing.co.za/sa-climbing-bouldering-grade-comparisons/ Grade Conversion] chart as well. If you need any help whatsoever then please email us with your question [mailto:info@climbing.co.za?Subject=Wiki%20Help%20&body=My%20Username%20is: info@climbing.co.za].

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This wiki is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this wiki, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources. However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== Rock Climbing in South Africa ==
South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry (except for when it floods). [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

== Access Considerations ==
A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths.

== Climbing Areas by Province==

[[File:Rsamap.png]]

===Eastern Cape===
Eastern Cape climbing offers a variety of different rock types. There are many small crags with good potential for new route development. There is an Eastern Cape section of the MCSA and the Rhodes University Mountain club.
*[[Eastern Cape|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Eastern Cape]]

===Free State===
Often thought to be a flat province but there is actually unlimited outcrops of sandstone mountains sometimes over 200m high. Mnt Everest Reserve & Swinburne offer good sport routes and bouldering in secure and beautiful settings.
*[[Free State|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Free State]]

===Gauteng===
This province is the smallest but also the most densely populated. Cities such as Johannesburg, Sandton and Pretoria are all situated here. There are several Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Johannesburg Section (+/- 750 members), MCSA Magaliesberg Section (+/- 450 members), the WITS University Mountain Club , the WITS Technikon Mountain Club, The RAU Mountain Club and a few others. The Johanneburg section of the Mountain Club of South Africa meets every Wednesday evening at 20h00 at their club house. Visitors are welcome to come along and meet other climbers and to get to know the local climbing scene. The address is Cnr Scott & Stirling Streets, Waverly, Johannesburg. There are also several climbing shops. A few indoor climbing gyms can also be found here.

There are a few small crags in the city areas but most of the good climbing in Gauteng is in the Magaliesberg. The Magaliesberg mountains range accross the northern part of Gauteng through to the eastern part of the Northwest Province.

*[[Gauteng|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Gauteng]]

===KwaZulu Natal===
This province includes the city of Durban around which you will find some excellent climbing areas. There are a few Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Kwazulu/Natal Section , Univeristy of Natal Club. Except for the odd rain and humid conditions this province provides good all-year round climbing. In the Eastern part of the province the Drakensberg mountains also provide a bit of mountaineering and ice climbing in winter.
*[[KwaZulu Natal|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in KwaZulu Natal]]

===Limpopo (Northern Province) ===
Home to some of the higher crags in South Africa including Blouberg a 400m high cliff.
*[[Limpopo Province|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Limpopo]]

===Mpumalanga===
This is a very beautiful province which includes one of our best sport climbing areas, The Restaurant. This area attracts year round visitors from around the world. It has become famous for its good selection of good quality routes that are easily accessible. Manoutsa, not too far from the Restaurant offers multi-pitch traditional climbing. Overall this province has a large amount of rock with very little of it developed. Beware, certain areas do have malaria (The Restaurant is usually pretty safe though). It is also recommended not to drink from & often not even swim in most of the rivers.
*[[Mpumalanga|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Mpumalanga]]

===Northwest Province===
The main climbing here is in the Magaliesberg which has over 1800 climbs, mostly multi-pitch trad routes in the beautiful kloofs (gorges). Access is mainly from Johannesburg and Pretoria.
*[[Northwest Province|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Northwest Province]]

===Western Cape===
The Cape is full of mountains and provides a mecca of climbing. Cape Town being the main centre is a good base to start from. There are a few clubs mainly the MCSA Cape Town Section which has over 1200 members and a bouldering wall in their club room. The University also has a good bouldering wall and there is a climbing gym in Cape Town too. Good climbing is only a few minutes drive from Cape Town and the furthermost areas about 4-5 hours away.

With winter rainfall which often sets in and hot conditions in summer, spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Most of the areas are relatively safe and guidebooks cover most of the areas and are available from the MCSA, Mountain Mail Order and the climbing stores. The best areas are Rocklands for bouldering, Montagu and Oudtshoorn for sport routes and Table Mountain and Cederberg for trad routes.
*[[Western Cape|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Western Cape]]

== Map of Climbing Areas ==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.784854,20.116596||[[Montagu]]
-33.371198,22.176535||[[Oudtshoorn]]
-32.14524,19.033785|[[Rocklands]]
-28.165111,29.18228|[[Harrismith]]
-25.633014,30.333323|[[Waterval_Boven]]
-29.480103,30.233831|[[Umgeni_Valley]]
-21.835528,15.195966|[[Spitzkoppe_%26_Pontoks]]
-33.94336,18.43895||[[Cape Town]]
-32.414168,19.207091||[[Tafelberg]]
-32.473745,19.275119||[[Wolfberg]]
-33.744683,18.942139||[[Paarl]]
-33.730684,19.172482||[[Hellfire]]
-33.726731,19.208043||[[Yellowood Amphitheatre]]
-34.332309,18.996581||[[Kleinmond]]
-17.816032,31.051369||[[Zimbabwe]]
-24.689739,25.8743||[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571,25.88034||[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882,25.66291||[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782,25.335712||[[Kanye]]
-24.775164,25.422507||[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
-24.431377,25.533019||[[Kobokwe Gorge]]
-22.203213,28.849642 ||[[Motlhabaneng]]
-25.849955,27.499466||[[Tonquani]]
-25.837904,27.523842||Easter Kloof
-25.850418,27.417412||Hamerkop
-25.848564,27.403851||Grootkloof
-25.810246,27.318192||Mhlabatini
-25.804682,27.310038||Fernkloof
-25.752435,27.711124||Kranskloof
-25.77927436042424,27.65782109655242||Trident
-25.82211783572647,27.54967596694304||Dome
-25.81651568593732,27.55628207221466||Likkewaan
-25.721431,27.849162||Chosspile
-29.761844,30.834281|[[Kloof Gorge]]
-29.819721,30.800747 |[[Winston Park]]
-29.863237,30.723817 |[[Shongweni Dam]]
-29.486603,30.238419|[[Howick Falls]]
-29.476516,30.269551|[[Umgeni Valley]]
-29.735092,30.68024|[[Monteseel]]
-23.081469, 29.038661|[[Blouberg]]
-23.943831, 28.9139|[[Wellingtons Dome]]
-23.931936, 29.125271|[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
</display_points>

== General Information ==
*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

South African Climbing Wiki

2012-12-12T06:10:18Z

Toprope:

Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

Route/area guides are sorted into local areas per province, select the province below or select the exact area directly from the map below. You will be linked through to all the climbing related information including online route guides, climber recommended accommodation listings as well as other relevant stuff. For areas where there is a purchasable printed guide, we also provide a link to where the book can be bought.

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and should not be done without proper instruction. Please read our DISCLAIMER [http://www.climbing.co.za/disclaimer/ here] and below before reading or using any of our information.

Please help us to keep this site up to date and accurate! Any new routes, changes or images can be immediately update here by directly editing the Climb ZA wiki. (That way the info won’t be sitting around until a new guide may or may not be published.) To edit the wiki you need to have a [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ Climb ZA Forum] user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us an email with your Climb ZA Forum user name to [mailto:info@climbing.co.za?Subject=Please%20Add%20me%20to%20the%20Wiki%20Group%20&body=My%20Username%20is: info@climbing.co.za] and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

We use certain with different label [http://www.climbing.co.za/climbing-routes-codes-conventions/ codes & conventions] – please check them out to better understand the guides. Have a look at our [http://www.climbing.co.za/sa-climbing-bouldering-grade-comparisons/ Grade Conversion] chart as well. If you need any help whatsoever then please email us with your question [mailto:info@climbing.co.za?Subject=Wiki%20Help%20&body=My%20Username%20is: info@climbing.co.za].

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This wiki is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this wiki, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources. However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== Rock Climbing in South Africa ==
South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry (except for when it floods). [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

== Access Considerations ==
A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths.

== Climbing Areas by Province==

[[File:Rsamap.png]]

===Eastern Cape===
Eastern Cape climbing offers a variety of different rock types. There are many small crags with good potential for new route development. There is an Eastern Cape section of the MCSA and the Rhodes University Mountain club.
*[[Eastern Cape|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Eastern Cape]]

===Free State===
Often thought to be a flat province but there is actually unlimited outcrops of sandstone mountains sometimes over 200m high. Mnt Everest Reserve & Swinburne offer good sport routes and bouldering in secure and beautiful settings.
*[[Free State|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Free State]]

===Gauteng===
This province is the smallest but also the most densely populated. Cities such as Johannesburg, Sandton and Pretoria are all situated here. There are several Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Johannesburg Section (+/- 750 members), MCSA Magaliesberg Section (+/- 450 members), the WITS University Mountain Club , the WITS Technikon Mountain Club, The RAU Mountain Club and a few others. The Johanneburg section of the Mountain Club of South Africa meets every Wednesday evening at 20h00 at their club house. Visitors are welcome to come along and meet other climbers and to get to know the local climbing scene. The address is Cnr Scott & Stirling Streets, Waverly, Johannesburg. There are also several climbing shops. A few indoor climbing gyms can also be found here.

There are a few small crags in the city areas but most of the good climbing in Gauteng is in the Magaliesberg. The Magaliesberg mountains range accross the northern part of Gauteng through to the eastern part of the Northwest Province.

*[[Gauteng|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Gauteng]]

===KwaZulu Natal===
This province includes the city of Durban around which you will find some excellent climbing areas. There are a few Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Kwazulu/Natal Section , Univeristy of Natal Club. Except for the odd rain and humid conditions this province provides good all-year round climbing. In the Eastern part of the province the Drakensberg mountains also provide a bit of mountaineering and ice climbing in winter.
*[[KwaZulu Natal|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in KwaZulu Natal]]

===Limpopo (Northern Province) ===
Home to some of the higher crags in South Africa including Blouberg a 400m high cliff.
*[[Limpopo Province|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Limpopo]]

===Mpumalanga===
This is a very beautiful province which includes one of our best sport climbing areas, The Restaurant. This area attracts year round visitors from around the world. It has become famous for its good selection of good quality routes that are easily accessible. Manoutsa, not too far from the Restaurant offers multi-pitch traditional climbing. Overall this province has a large amount of rock with very little of it developed. Beware, certain areas do have malaria (The Restaurant is usually pretty safe though). It is also recommended not to drink from & often not even swim in most of the rivers.
*[[Mpumalanga|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Mpumalanga]]

===Northwest Province===
The main climbing here is in the Magaliesberg which has over 1800 climbs, mostly multi-pitch trad routes in the beautiful kloofs (gorges). Access is mainly from Johannesburg and Pretoria.
*[[Northwest Province|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Northwest Province]]

===Western Cape===
The Cape is full of mountains and provides a mecca of climbing. Cape Town being the main centre is a good base to start from. There are a few clubs mainly the MCSA Cape Town Section which has over 1200 members and a bouldering wall in their club room. The University also has a good bouldering wall and there is a climbing gym in Cape Town too. Good climbing is only a few minutes drive from Cape Town and the furthermost areas about 4-5 hours away.

With winter rainfall which often sets in and hot conditions in summer, spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Most of the areas are relatively safe and guidebooks cover most of the areas and are available from the MCSA, Mountain Mail Order and the climbing stores. The best areas are Rocklands for bouldering, Montagu and Oudtshoorn for sport routes and Table Mountain and Cederberg for trad routes.
*[[Western Cape|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Western Cape]]

== Map of Climbing Areas ==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.784854,20.116596||[[Montagu]]
-33.371198,22.176535||[[Oudtshoorn]]
-32.14524,19.033785|[[Rocklands]]
-28.165111,29.18228|[[Harrismith]]
-25.633014,30.333323|[[Waterval_Boven]]
-29.480103,30.233831|[[Umgeni_Valley]]
-21.835528,15.195966|[[Spitzkoppe_%26_Pontoks]]
-33.94336,18.43895||[[Cape Town]]
-32.414168,19.207091||[[Tafelberg]]
-32.473745,19.275119||[[Wolfberg]]
-33.744683,18.942139||[[Paarl]]
-33.730684,19.172482||[[Hellfire]]
-33.726731,19.208043||[[Yellowood Amphitheatre]]
-34.332309,18.996581||[[Kleinmond]]
-17.816032,31.051369||[[Zimbabwe]]
-24.689739,25.8743||[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571,25.88034||[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882,25.66291||[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782,25.335712||[[Kanye]]
-24.775164,25.422507||[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
-24.431377,25.533019||[[Kobokwe Gorge]]
-22.203213,28.849642 ||[[Motlhabaneng]]
-25.849955,27.499466||[[Tonquani]]
-25.837904,27.523842||Easter Kloof
-25.850418,27.417412||Hamerkop
-25.848564,27.403851||Grootkloof
-25.810246,27.318192||Mhlabatini
-25.804682,27.310038||Fernkloof
-25.752435,27.711124||Kranskloof
-25.77927436042424,27.65782109655242||Trident
-25.82211783572647,27.54967596694304||Dome
-25.81651568593732,27.55628207221466||Likkewaan
-25.721431,27.849162||Chosspile
-29.761844,30.834281|[[Kloof Gorge]]
-29.819721,30.800747 |[[Winston Park]]
-29.863237,30.723817 |[[Shongweni Dam]]
-29.486603,30.238419|[[Howick Falls]]
-29.476516,30.269551|[[Umgeni Valley]]
-29.735092,30.68024|[[Monteseel]]
-23.081469, 29.038661|[[Blouberg]]
-23.943831, 28.9139|[[Wellingtons Dome]]
-23.931936, 29.125271|[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
</display_points>

== General Information ==
*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

Limpopo Province

2012-12-12T06:09:21Z

Toprope:

Limpopo Province is home to some of the higher crags in South Africa including Blouberg a 400m high cliff.

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-23.081469, 29.038661|[[Blouberg]]
-23.943831, 28.9139|[[Wellingtons Dome]]
-23.931936, 29.125271|[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]
</display_points>

= Limpopo Climbing Areas=
Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.

__NOTOC__

==[[Blouberg]]==
Big wall trad climbing with many excellent routes of upto 12 pitches on good rock. A truly African setting worth the long drive to get there. Its best not to venture out here alone, you would certainly get lost.

<gallery>
File:Blouberg North Wall Limpopo Province, South Africa.jpg|Blouberg
</gallery>

==[[Hanglip]]==
Multi-pitch trad climbs, rock quality not excellent but in a good isolated setting.

==[[Krantzberg]]==
Good multi-pitch trad routes on good rock.

==[[Makapansgat]]==
En route to Polokwane and is an ideal weekend trip, or a handy alternative if you’re rained off Blouberg. Its an all-trad venue with a super easy walk-in, very exposed, wild and beautiful camping, deep pools, high waterfalls and easy-to-access cragging. There is lots of new route potential.

==[[Ngopane (gaMashashane)]]==
Ngopane is a granite spire, nearly 100m in height, about 50 km to the north-east of Wellington's Dome, in the village of ga-Mashashane. The crag is in the middle of the village and the general reception there is friendly and chilled out. To date there are two routes up the Ngopane spire: one moderate three-pitch sport route to the summit with fantastic exposure and an easy 45m trad line almost half-way up the crag. There is also an easier scramble off the back of the crag from the top-out of the trad line.

==[[Thabaphaswa]]==
Single and multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane
<gallery>
File:Dome s.jpg|Thabaphaswa
</gallery>

==[[Wellingtons Dome]]==
Multi-pitch granite sport climbing near Mokopane with many good multi-pitch routes (up to 7P)
<gallery>
File:Wellingtons01s.jpg|Wellingtons Dome
</gallery>

File:Wellingtons01s.jpg

2012-12-12T06:02:05Z

Toprope:

South African Climbing Wiki

2012-12-11T15:25:51Z

Toprope:

Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

Route/area guides are sorted into local areas per province, select the province below or select the exact area directly from the map below. You will be linked through to all the climbing related information including online route guides, climber recommended accommodation listings as well as other relevant stuff. For areas where there is a purchasable printed guide, we also provide a link to where the book can be bought.

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and should not be done without proper instruction. Please read our DISCLAIMER [http://www.climbing.co.za/disclaimer/ here] and below before reading or using any of our information.

Please help us to keep this site up to date and accurate! Any new routes, changes or images can be immediately update here by directly editing the Climb ZA wiki. (That way the info won’t be sitting around until a new guide may or may not be published.) To edit the wiki you need to have a [http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ Climb ZA Forum] user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us an email with your Climb ZA Forum user name to [mailto:info@climbing.co.za?Subject=Please%20Add%20me%20to%20the%20Wiki%20Group%20&body=My%20Username%20is: info@climbing.co.za] and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

We use certain with different label [http://www.climbing.co.za/climbing-routes-codes-conventions/ codes & conventions] – please check them out to better understand the guides. Have a look at our [http://www.climbing.co.za/sa-climbing-bouldering-grade-comparisons/ Grade Conversion] chart as well. If you need any help whatsoever then please email us with your question [mailto:info@climbing.co.za?Subject=Wiki%20Help%20&body=My%20Username%20is: info@climbing.co.za].

== DISCLAIMER ==
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport in which you can be seriously injured or even killed.
This wiki is intended only for the use of experienced climbers who have the necessary expertise, experience and judgement to ensure their own safety.

Whilst we have made a reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this wiki, you make use of it entirely at your own risk. We are well aware that there are various errors in the descriptions and topos that we have scrounged from various sources. However, it is impossible for any one person to climb every one of these routes and check all the details. So, please regard this information as a guide only and exercise the necessary discretion.

The information in this guide will definitely change with time and is definitely NOT necessarily 100% accurate. These notes are simply an attempt to give you some idea of what to expect. It is up to YOU to determine the situation prevailing on each route you attempt and to exercise the necessary precautions.

== Rock Climbing in South Africa ==
South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry (except for when it floods). [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

== Access Considerations ==
A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths.

== Climbing Areas by Province==

[[File:Rsamap.png]]

===Eastern Cape===
Eastern Cape climbing offers a variety of different rock types. There are many small crags with good potential for new route development. There is an Eastern Cape section of the MCSA and the Rhodes University Mountain club.
*[[Eastern Cape|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Eastern Cape]]

===Free State===
Often thought to be a flat province but there is actually unlimited outcrops of sandstone mountains sometimes over 200m high. Mnt Everest Reserve & Swinburne offer good sport routes and bouldering in secure and beautiful settings.
*[[Free State|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Free State]]

===Gauteng===
This province is the smallest but also the most densely populated. Cities such as Johannesburg, Sandton and Pretoria are all situated here. There are several Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Johannesburg Section (+/- 750 members), MCSA Magaliesberg Section (+/- 450 members), the WITS University Mountain Club , the WITS Technikon Mountain Club, The RAU Mountain Club and a few others. The Johanneburg section of the Mountain Club of South Africa meets every Wednesday evening at 20h00 at their club house. Visitors are welcome to come along and meet other climbers and to get to know the local climbing scene. The address is Cnr Scott & Stirling Streets, Waverly, Johannesburg. There are also several climbing shops. A few indoor climbing gyms can also be found here.

There are a few small crags in the city areas but most of the good climbing in Gauteng is in the Magaliesberg. The Magaliesberg mountains range accross the northern part of Gauteng through to the eastern part of the Northwest Province.

*[[Gauteng|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Gauteng]]

===KwaZulu Natal===
This province includes the city of Durban around which you will find some excellent climbing areas. There are a few Climbing related clubs in the area including the MCSA Kwazulu/Natal Section , Univeristy of Natal Club. Except for the odd rain and humid conditions this province provides good all-year round climbing. In the Eastern part of the province the Drakensberg mountains also provide a bit of mountaineering and ice climbing in winter.
*[[KwaZulu Natal|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in KwaZulu Natal]]

===Limpopo (Northern Province) ===
Home to some of the higher crags in South Africa including Blouberg a 400m high cliff.
*[[Limpopo Province|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Limpopo]]

===Mpumalanga===
This is a very beautiful province which includes one of our best sport climbing areas, The Restaurant. This area attracts year round visitors from around the world. It has become famous for its good selection of good quality routes that are easily accessible. Manoutsa, not too far from the Restaurant offers multi-pitch traditional climbing. Overall this province has a large amount of rock with very little of it developed. Beware, certain areas do have malaria (The Restaurant is usually pretty safe though). It is also recommended not to drink from & often not even swim in most of the rivers.
*[[Mpumalanga|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in Mpumalanga]]

===Northwest Province===
The main climbing here is in the Magaliesberg which has over 1800 climbs, mostly multi-pitch trad routes in the beautiful kloofs (gorges). Access is mainly from Johannesburg and Pretoria.
*[[Northwest Province|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Northwest Province]]

===Western Cape===
The Cape is full of mountains and provides a mecca of climbing. Cape Town being the main centre is a good base to start from. There are a few clubs mainly the MCSA Cape Town Section which has over 1200 members and a bouldering wall in their club room. The University also has a good bouldering wall and there is a climbing gym in Cape Town too. Good climbing is only a few minutes drive from Cape Town and the furthermost areas about 4-5 hours away.

With winter rainfall which often sets in and hot conditions in summer, spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Most of the areas are relatively safe and guidebooks cover most of the areas and are available from the MCSA, Mountain Mail Order and the climbing stores. The best areas are Rocklands for bouldering, Montagu and Oudtshoorn for sport routes and Table Mountain and Cederberg for trad routes.
*[[Western Cape|Click here to see full details of all the climbing areas in the Western Cape]]

== Map of Climbing Areas ==

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.784854,20.116596||[[Montagu]]
-33.371198,22.176535||[[Oudtshoorn]]
-32.14524,19.033785|[[Rocklands]]
-28.165111,29.18228|[[Harrismith]]
-25.633014,30.333323|[[Waterval_Boven]]
-29.480103,30.233831|[[Umgeni_Valley]]
-21.835528,15.195966|[[Spitzkoppe_%26_Pontoks]]
-33.94336,18.43895||[[Cape Town]]
-32.414168,19.207091||[[Tafelberg]]
-32.473745,19.275119||[[Wolfberg]]
-33.744683,18.942139||[[Paarl]]
-33.730684,19.172482||[[Hellfire]]
-33.726731,19.208043||[[Yellowood Amphitheatre]]
-34.332309,18.996581||[[Kleinmond]]
-17.816032,31.051369||[[Zimbabwe]]
-24.689739,25.8743||[[Kgale Hill]]
-24.5571,25.88034||[[Mmopane Hill]]
-24.83882,25.66291||[[Mogonye]]
-24.952782,25.335712||[[Kanye]]
-24.775164,25.422507||[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
-24.431377,25.533019||[[Kobokwe Gorge]]
-22.203213,28.849642 ||[[Motlhabaneng]]
-25.849955,27.499466||[[Tonquani]]
-25.837904,27.523842||Easter Kloof
-25.850418,27.417412||Hamerkop
-25.848564,27.403851||Grootkloof
-25.810246,27.318192||Mhlabatini
-25.804682,27.310038||Fernkloof
-25.752435,27.711124||Kranskloof
-25.77927436042424,27.65782109655242||Trident
-25.82211783572647,27.54967596694304||Dome
-25.81651568593732,27.55628207221466||Likkewaan
-25.721431,27.849162||Chosspile
-29.761844,30.834281|[[Kloof Gorge]]
-29.819721,30.800747 |[[Winston Park]]
-29.863237,30.723817 |[[Shongweni Dam]]
-29.486603,30.238419|[[Howick Falls]]
-29.476516,30.269551|[[Umgeni Valley]]
-29.735092,30.68024|[[Monteseel]]
</display_points>

== General Information ==
*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

File:Rsamap.png

2012-12-11T15:00:21Z

Toprope:

Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance

2012-11-16T12:21:47Z

Toprope:

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.924301, 24.249397 |Bobbejaankop
-33.927547, 24.268979 |African Rennaissance
</display_points>

Eastern Cape

2012-11-16T11:53:47Z

Toprope:

Eastern Cape climbing offers a variety of different rock types. There are many small crags with good potential for new route development.

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
</display_points>

= Eastern Cape Climbing Areas=
Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.

__NOTOC__

==[[Alicedale]]==
Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
<gallery>
File:Clm0161b.jpg|Bouldering at Alicedale
</gallery>

==[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]==

==[[Buffalo River]]==
Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.

==[[Cape St Francis]]==

==Cockscombe==
A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes are found here. Check with the MCSA for access conditions.
<gallery>
File:Lsc0041b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 21
File:Clm0075b.jpg|Gorge 20, Cockscombe
File:Lsc0040b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 9
File:Clm0074b.jpg|Gorge 12, Cockscombe
</gallery>

==Coffee Bay==
Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.

==Compassberg==
Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.

==Coombs==
Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking

==Crag-X Grahamstown==
Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
<gallery>
File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
</gallery>

==[[Fort Fordyce]]==
A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.

==Graaf Reinet==
Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.

==Grootrivierpoort==
At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Hellspoort==
Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!

==[[Hogsback]]==
Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
<gallery>
File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
</gallery>

==[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]==
Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.

==Joubertina==
Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Keinrivier==

==Lady Slipper==
Some quartzite bouldering on a few boulders and about 90 trad lines up on the mountain. It is about 40km from Port Elizabeth.
<gallery>
File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
File:Clm0091b.jpg|Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'
File:Clm0163b.jpg|Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

</gallery>

==Lalapanzi==
A dolorite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been openned so far.

==[[Morgan Bay]]==
Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.

==[[NSA, East London]]==
In East London, some sandtone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.

==[[Pinnacle Gorge]]==
Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
<gallery>
File:Clm0166b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0165b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0159b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge
</gallery>

==Pompies Pillar==
A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.

==The Grots==
Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.

==[[The Shire]]==

==Van Staden's Gorge==

==Vanstadensriver Dam==
About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
<gallery>
File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach
</gallery>

==[[Windmill Hole]]==
In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

==Yellow Sands==
About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolorite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.

=Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs=
There is an Eastern Cape section of the [http://eas.mcsa.org.za MCSA] and the [http://www.ru.ac.za/sportsadmin/sportsclubs/mountain/ Rhodes University Mountain club].

Howissen's Poort/Scoops

2012-11-16T11:36:37Z

Toprope:

==Download PDF==
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/Howissen_Poort_Scoops.pdf Download the Howissen Poort Topo by D.C.Marshall] NB: this is a 57kb PDF

[[File:Howissons map.jpg]]

LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or climb.co.za. The landowners accept no liability what so ever. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own…take care!

NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: Please note that this is a web based guide, easy to change, so send corrections, additions & adjustments to marshall@qsafrica.co.za . You are welcome to print this out, e-mail or use the info for a better guide. Feel free! Please send me a copy.

Thanks to Kevan Watkins, Jeremy Colenso, Martin Renz & especially Keith James for giving route information & general historical snippets.
.
DIRECTIONS: Howissen’s Poort is situated 8km out of Grahamstown on the N2 to Port Elizabeth. About a km down the hill from the Stony Crescent Hotel. At the Berg River bridge there is a parking area next to an old quarry, on the opposite side of the road to the hotel. Although the caves are very close to the car park, they do not look good at all till you cross the stream.

WALK IN: About 40 seconds max.

ACCESS: No access restrictions.

HISTORY: As far as we know, this crag was discovered by Keith James…way back. Initially its potential was only recognized as a bouldering or training area. Later after much gardening some routes were bolted. The wasp problem was sorted, taping a bluet stove onto a stick. Re-bolting was sponsored by the MCSA (Marshall Clan of South Africa).

TIME & WEATHER: Shaded most of the day. Can be very cold in winter. The caves seep badly a few days after heavy rain & can become quite sandy after seeping.

POTENTIAL: There is still a fair amount of potential for new routes. Between the lower caves. To the R of the smaller cave & the L of the Main Cave.

GENERAL: 42 bolted routes and some very poor trad.

ROCK TYPE: Sandstone & quartzite mix.

HAZARDS: Area is reasonably safe, but take the usual precautions as the crags are on the national road. The caves tend to attract wanders, vagrants & Rhodes students… they are mostly harmless. There are some times turds in the smaller cave. Watch out for these, they are not fun to stand in.

ENVIRONMENTAL: There is lots of trash at Howissen’s. Please do your little bit & take some of it home with you. Spend 5 minutes filling a bag to take home, you will influence your mates & they will join you. In time it will make every bit of difference. Believe….
SANCF members please note that graffiti is not tolerated by MCSA or Eastern Cape climbers at all. Please do not add to the existing graffiti in either crag. The MCSA is in the process of removing the existing graffiti & are taking Kung-fu lessons.

ACCOMMODATION: There are a hundred and one places to stay in Grahamstown. The best would be to stay at the old jail back packers. They have a sweet pub, full of hippies, student & tourists.

[[File:Howissons small cave.jpg]]
SMALL CAVE

This is the sandy cave closest to the main road.
1. Crystals Crack – 17 Martin Rehm 15.01.2011 (7B&C)
2. Hande Hoch Fritz – 17 Martin Rehm 16.01.2011 (4B&C)
3. Fringe Benefits – 21* Keith James May 1995 (4B&C)
Re-bolted & extended by Juan-dray Marshall.
4. Sputnik – 26** Jeremy Colenso May 1995 (5B&C)
Re-bolted & extended by Juan-dray Marshall.
5. Body Parts – 29** Jeremy Colenso May 1995 (5B&C)
Re-bolted & extended by Juan-dray Marshall.

6. Mr Woggligog – 29 Martin Renz 2004 (6B&C)
Link route.
7. Madam Golliwog – 27* Shannon Law May 1995 (7B&C)
Re-bolted & extended by Juan-dray Marshall.

8. But Here I Am – 28*
Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C)
9. Another Roadside Attraction – 22**
Keith James April 1995 (5B&C)
This was the first route to be bolted at Howissen’s. Re-bolted & extended by Juan-dray Marshall.
10. Ma se Antie – 28*
Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C)
11. L.O.V.E. Machine – 28
Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C)
12. Ek Koekeloer Jou – 20
Stefan Kramer 16.01.2011 (6B&C)
13. Ek Sommer Moer Jou – 19
Stefan Kramer 16.01.2011 (6B&C)
14. Tattooed Madman – 20
Terrance Travaskis

[[File:Howissons main cave.jpg]]
MAIN CAVE

This is a few meters up stream of the small cave. The “vertical” lines in between the caves are included in the Main Cave.
1. Hallowed be Thy Name – 19
Keith James 2004 (3B&C)
2. Legion – 19
Keith James 2010 (4B&C)
3. The Shallows – 20
Keith James 2004 (6B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall.
4. Has Been – 21 Keith James November 2004 (7B&C)
Extended by Derek Marshall.
5. Gymrat – 20* Keith James 1995 (6B&C)
Extended by Derek Marshall.
6. Invisible Elephant – 21 D.C.Marshall 2001 (7B&C)
7. Do The Dassie – 21 Martin Rehm 15.01.2011 (7B&C)
8. The Savant – 17 Marc Scáafer (6B&C)
9. Savage – 20 D.C.Marshall 26.02.2011 (1B&C)
Extension through the roof.
10. Slash – 17 Marc Scáafer (5B&C)
11. Burn – 22* D.C.Marshall 26.02.2011 (2B&C)
12. Émigré – 22 Keith James 1998 (6B&C)
Re-bolted & re-directed by Derek Marshall.

13. Paglia’s Pursuit – 21* Keith James (5B&C)
Re-bolted & re-directed by Derek Marshall.
14. Blasphemy – 22** Keith James May 1995 (6B&C)
This is the route with the hand size jug glued onto it. Re-bolted & extended by Derek Marshall.
15. Heresy – 24** Keith James May 1995 (6B&C)
This route was opened with a glue-on hold at the crux at 23. This was later removed by Kevan Watkins, making Heresy a 24. Re-bolted & extended by Derek Marshall.
16. Avatar – 22** Keith James May 1995 (6B&C)
This was the first bolted line in the Main Cave. Re-bolted by Juan-dray Marshall.
17. Fat Boys Aerobic Workout – 29*** Jeremy Colenso 1995 (6B&C)
Bolted by Keith & Jeremy in late 1995. Jeremy Colenso & Shannon Law gave it consensus grade of 29. Later Rhodes students upped the grade to 30. Notably an Italian, Alfredo D’ Matteis (social researcher in PE townships, in 98/99) flashed it, and then later soloed it. He also soloed all the other routes in the big cave. Paul Brouard on-sighted it, but left it at 30. Re-bolted & sent in 2011 by Juan-dray Marshall who was 15 at the time.
18. Skinny Toppies – 30*** Juan-dray Marshall 19.02.2011 (9B&C)
Bolted D.C.Marshall
19. Texas Kak Huis – 25 Juan-Dray Marshall 23.01.2011 (5B&C)
Bolted D.C.Marshall.
20. Wake Up The King – 24 Juan-Dray Marshall 05.02.2011 (5B&C)
21. Amaqwaba – 22 D.C.Marshall 05.02.2011 (4B&C)
22. Live Like an Animal – 21 D.C.Marshall 05.02.2011 (4B&C)
23. Gaan Kak in Die Mielies – 20 Stefan Kramer 23.01.2011 (2B&C)

[[File:Howissons upper caves.jpg]]
UPPER CAVES

This is on a flat ledge about 25m above the stream. A reasonable path starts at the LH side of the Main Cave.
1. Valcross – 19 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 22/02/2002 (4B&C)
2. Brighter Day – 22 D.C.Marshall & C.Bester 22/02/2002 (5B&C)
3. Strangers on the Street – 19 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 23/02/2002 (5B&C)
4. Templar Renegade – 20 D.C.Marshall & A.E.Luck 23/02/2002 (6B&C)
5. Offal – 14
A.E.Luck & C.Bester 22/02/2002 (T)
Up shelves to a large cave slot. Traverse L under roof & out.
6. No More – 14
A.E.Luck & C.Bester 22/02/2002 (T)
Up groove, then R under roof & out to the R of roof.
7. Bring Your Jeans – 16 C.Bester & D.C.Marshall 22/02/2002 (5B&C)

File:Howissons upper caves.jpg

2012-11-16T11:35:58Z

Toprope: Howissons Upper Caves

Howissons Upper Caves

File:Howissons main cave.jpg

2012-11-16T11:34:03Z

Toprope: Howissons Main Cave

Howissons Main Cave

File:Howissons small cave.jpg

2012-11-16T11:31:20Z

Toprope: Howissons Small Cave

Howissons Small Cave

File:Howissons map.jpg

2012-11-16T11:29:15Z

Toprope: Howissen’s Poort Map

Howissen’s Poort Map

Alicedale

2012-11-16T11:02:58Z

Toprope: Created page with " The bouldering is located 3km from the small town Alicedale (roughly 100km from Port Elizabeth and 60km from Grahamstown). Please note the following mega important access a..."

The bouldering is located 3km from the small town Alicedale (roughly 100km from Port Elizabeth and 60km from Grahamstown).

Please note the following mega important access arraignments:

The Alicedale boulders are privately owned. There are currently no access restrictions, but the farmer has requested that anybody bouldering at Alicedale contact him before going onto his property. He has asked that all contact be through Dricus Bezuidenhout dricusbezuidenhout@gmail.com or SMS 0834469819.

Remember; this is private land & we don’t have rights to be there. So please take note of the following:

*be mega polite & don’t inconvenience the farmer in any way.
*don’t make fires, litter, play music or do anything stupid.
*don’t damage the fence as you climb over
*limit damage to plants, only where it is absolutely necessary to access a problem.
*don’t interfere with any animals wild or domestic.

The Rock, Weather, Landings, Walk-ins and Bugs Rock: Quartzite Sandstone mix
The Weather: Summer: Hot and dry, but you can climb in the shaded areas
in Area 2 or early mornings and later afternoons.
Winter: Winter is the ideal season to climb all day long. Better friction, less rain and less bugs. But it can still reach 30 degrees out there. So come prepared.
A bonus of Alicedale is that, it might rain in PE or Grahamstown, but it has a very high chance of being dry in Alicedale. So take a chance and have a look. You are more than likely to be in luck.

Landings:
Unfortunately Alicedale is no Fontainebleau. But the landings on a whole are pretty good, but for some problems will require more than one pad and spotter. So please be intelligent and be safe.

Walk-ins:
Alicedale is ideal for lazy bums. For Area 1 & 2, if it takes you more than 7 minutes, then you must be in a wheelchair. (That‘s 7 minutes even if you get lost.)

Bugs:
Ticks are a problem, especially in summer and after rains. Some insect repellent is advised. During spring, as the flower come out, so do the bees, in force. They tend to be quite aggressive. Otherwise there are spiders, snakes and scorpions out there. Keep an eye out.

Eastern Cape

2012-11-16T11:01:17Z

Toprope:

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
</display_points>

= Eastern Cape Climbing Areas=
Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.

__NOTOC__

==[[Alicedale]]==
Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
<gallery>
File:Clm0161b.jpg|Bouldering at Alicedale
</gallery>

==[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]==

==[[Buffalo River]]==
Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.

==[[Cape St Francis]]==

==Cockscombe==
A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes are found here. Check with the MCSA for access conditions.
<gallery>
File:Lsc0041b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 21
File:Clm0075b.jpg|Gorge 20, Cockscombe
File:Lsc0040b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 9
File:Clm0074b.jpg|Gorge 12, Cockscombe
</gallery>

==Coffee Bay==
Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.

==Compassberg==
Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.

==Coombs==
Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking

==Crag-X Grahamstown==
Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
<gallery>
File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
</gallery>

==[[Fort Fordyce]]==
A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.

==Graaf Reinet==
Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.

==Grootrivierpoort==
At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Hellspoort==
Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!

==[[Hogsback]]==
Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
<gallery>
File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
</gallery>

==[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]==
Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.

==Joubertina==
Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Keinrivier==

==Lady Slipper==
Some quartzite bouldering on a few boulders and about 90 trad lines up on the mountain. It is about 40km from Port Elizabeth.
<gallery>
File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
File:Clm0091b.jpg|Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'
File:Clm0163b.jpg|Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

</gallery>

==Lalapanzi==
A dolorite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been openned so far.

==[[Morgan Bay]]==
Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.

==[[NSA, East London]]==
In East London, some sandtone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.

==[[Pinnacle Gorge]]==
Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
<gallery>
File:Clm0166b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0165b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0159b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge
</gallery>

==Pompies Pillar==
A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.

==The Grots==
Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.

==[[The Shire]]==

==Van Staden's Gorge==

==Vanstadensriver Dam==
About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
<gallery>
File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach
</gallery>

==[[Windmill Hole]]==
In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

==Yellow Sands==
About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolorite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.

Eastern Cape

2012-11-16T10:57:52Z

Toprope:

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
</display_points>

= Eastern Cape Climbing Areas=
Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.

__NOTOC__

==Alicedale==
Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
<gallery>
File:Clm0161b.jpg|Bouldering at Alicedale
</gallery>

==[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]==

==[[Buffalo River]]==
Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.

==[[Cape St Francis]]==

==Cockscombe==
A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes are found here. Check with the MCSA for access conditions.
<gallery>
File:Lsc0041b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 21
File:Clm0075b.jpg|Gorge 20, Cockscombe
File:Lsc0040b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 9
File:Clm0074b.jpg|Gorge 12, Cockscombe
</gallery>

==Coffee Bay==
Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.

==Compassberg==
Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.

==Coombs==
Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking

==Crag-X Grahamstown==
Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
<gallery>
File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
</gallery>

==[[Fort Fordyce]]==
A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.

==Graaf Reinet==
Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.

==Grootrivierpoort==
At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Hellspoort==
Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!

==[[Hogsback]]==
Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
<gallery>
File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
</gallery>

==[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]==
Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.

==Joubertina==
Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Keinrivier==

==Lady Slipper==
Some quartzite bouldering on a few boulders and about 90 trad lines up on the mountain. It is about 40km from Port Elizabeth.
<gallery>
File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
File:Clm0091b.jpg|Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'
File:Clm0163b.jpg|Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

</gallery>

==Lalapanzi==
A dolorite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been openned so far.

==[[Morgan Bay]]==
Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.

==[[NSA, East London]]==
In East London, some sandtone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.

==[[Pinnacle Gorge]]==
Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
<gallery>
File:Clm0166b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0165b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0159b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge
</gallery>

==Pompies Pillar==
A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.

==The Grots==
Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.

==[[The Shire]]==

==Van Staden's Gorge==

==Vanstadensriver Dam==
About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
<gallery>
File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach
</gallery>

==[[Windmill Hole]]==
In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

==Yellow Sands==
About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolorite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.

Eastern Cape

2012-11-16T10:31:02Z

Toprope:

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
</display_points>

= Eastern Cape Climbing Areas=
__NOTOC__

==Alicedale==
Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
<gallery>
File:Clm0161b.jpg|Bouldering at Alicedale
</gallery>

==[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]==

==[[Buffalo River]]==
Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.

==[[Cape St Francis]]==

==Cockscombe==
A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes are found here. Check with the MCSA for access conditions.
<gallery>
File:Lsc0041b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 21
File:Clm0075b.jpg|Gorge 20, Cockscombe
File:Lsc0040b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 9
File:Clm0074b.jpg|Gorge 12, Cockscombe
</gallery>

==Coffee Bay==
Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.

==Compassberg==
Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.

==Coombs==
Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking

==Crag-X Grahamstown==
Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
<gallery>
File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
</gallery>

==[[Fort Fordyce]]==
A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.

==Graaf Reinet==
Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.

==Grootrivierpoort==
At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Hellspoort==
Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!

==[[Hogsback]]==
Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
<gallery>
File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
</gallery>

==[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]==
Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.

==Joubertina==
Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Keinrivier==

==Lady Slipper==
Some quartzite bouldering on a few boulders and about 90 trad lines up on the mountain. It is about 40km from Port Elizabeth.
<gallery>
File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
File:Clm0091b.jpg|Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'
File:Clm0163b.jpg|Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

</gallery>

==Lalapanzi==
A dolorite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been openned so far.

==[[Morgan Bay]]==
Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.

==[[NSA, East London]]==
In East London, some sandtone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.

==[[Pinnacle Gorge]]==
Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
<gallery>
File:Clm0166b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0165b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0159b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge
</gallery>

==Pompies Pillar==
A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.

==The Grots==
Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.

==[[The Shire]]==

==Van Staden's Gorge==

==Vanstadensriver Dam==
About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
<gallery>
File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach
</gallery>

==[[Windmill Hole]]==
In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

==Yellow Sands==
About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolorite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.

Eastern Cape

2012-11-16T10:29:12Z

Toprope:

<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
</display_points>

= Eastern Cape Climbing Areas===
__NOTOC__

==Alicedale==
Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
<gallery>
File:Clm0161b.jpg|Bouldering at Alicedale
</gallery>

==[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]==

==[[Buffalo River]]==
Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.

==[[Cape St Francis]]==

==Cockscombe==
A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes are found here. Check with the MCSA for access conditions.
<gallery>
File:Lsc0041b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 21
File:Clm0075b.jpg|Gorge 20, Cockscombe
File:Lsc0040b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 9
File:Clm0074b.jpg|Gorge 12, Cockscombe
</gallery>

==Coffee Bay==
Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.

==Compassberg==
Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.

==Coombs==
Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking

==Crag-X Grahamstown==
Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
<gallery>
File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
</gallery>

==[[Fort Fordyce]]==
A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.

==Graaf Reinet==
Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.

==Grootrivierpoort==
At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Hellspoort==
Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!

==[[Hogsback]]==
Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
<gallery>
File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
</gallery>

==[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]==
Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.

==Joubertina==
Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.

==Keinrivier==

==Lady Slipper==
Some quartzite bouldering on a few boulders and about 90 trad lines up on the mountain. It is about 40km from Port Elizabeth.
<gallery>
File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
File:Clm0091b.jpg|Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'
File:Clm0163b.jpg|Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

</gallery>

==Lalapanzi==
A dolorite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been openned so far.

==[[Morgan Bay]]==
Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.

==[[NSA, East London]]==
In East London, some sandtone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.

==[[Pinnacle Gorge]]==
Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
<gallery>
File:Clm0166b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0165b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC
File:Clm0159b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge
</gallery>

==Pompies Pillar==
A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.

==The Grots==
Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.

==[[The Shire]]==

==Van Staden's Gorge==

==Vanstadensriver Dam==
About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
<gallery>
File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach
</gallery>

==[[Windmill Hole]]==
In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.

==Yellow Sands==
About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolorite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.

File:Clm0161b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:28:09Z

Toprope: Bouldering at Alicedale

Bouldering at Alicedale

File:Lsc0041b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:27:02Z

Toprope: Cockscombe, Gorge 21

Cockscombe, Gorge 21

File:Clm0075b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:25:52Z

Toprope: Gorge 20, Cockscombe

Gorge 20, Cockscombe

File:Lsc0040b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:25:01Z

Toprope: Cockscombe, Gorge 9

Cockscombe, Gorge 9

File:Clm0074b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:24:09Z

Toprope: Gorge 12, Cockscombe

Gorge 12, Cockscombe

File:Clm0090b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:22:28Z

Toprope: 'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown

'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown

File:Clm0167b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:20:25Z

Toprope: Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC

Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC

File:Clm0164b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:19:10Z

Toprope: Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

File:Clm0091b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:18:19Z

Toprope: Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'

Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'

File:Clm0163b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:16:42Z

Toprope: Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape

File:Clm0159b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:15:32Z

Toprope: Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge

Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge

File:Clm0165b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:14:26Z

Toprope: Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC

Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC

File:Clm0166b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:11:50Z

Toprope: The Pinnacle, Pinnacle Gorge

The Pinnacle, Pinnacle Gorge

File:Clm0160b.jpg

2012-11-16T10:10:08Z

Toprope: Hydrophilic, The Beach, Vanstadensriver Dam

Hydrophilic, The Beach, Vanstadensriver Dam

Blouberg

2012-11-15T19:04:16Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -23.081469
| Longitude = 29.038661
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season =
| Province = Limpopo
| Area = Blouberg

}}
Big wall trad climbing with many excellent routes of upto 12 pitches on good rock. A truly African setting worth the long drive to get there. Its best not to venture out here alone, you would certainly get lost.

[[Image:Blouberg North Wall Limpopo Province, South Africa.jpg|right]]

=Route Guide=
[[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Blouberg_Route_Guide_6_2011_12_12.pdf | Click here to download the Blouberg Route Guide by Hector Pringle]]

[[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Blouberg_photo_topo_Rev_0.pdf | Click here to download the Blouberg Photo Guide by Hector Pringle]]

=Directions=

==Walking Directions==
There basically two different walk-ins: African Ivory and Frans' Kraal. The African Ivory route tackles the mountain from the south and basically foolows the big watercourse, the source of which is the top pools near the cave. The Frans' Kraal route comes in from the east, and heads up a biggish river valley, then gets onto the ridge forming the valley bank. Once the big plateau is reached, the route goes clockwise around the southern Donjon, up to the top plateau.

General consensus is that Fran's Kraal is by far the better walk. You start ascending almost immediately on this walk, as opposed to African Ivory where it takes ages to reach the first steep bit. It is probably equally likely to get lost on either walk.

==Frans' Kraal==

Parking is no longer at Frans' Kraal, but rather at Isaac's Kraal. Isaac is a relative of Frans (son? nephew? grandson?) and the road virtually runs into his place. (The Rondawels have gone). His property is guarded by a fence with "white metal gates". From the house walk down the road towards the mountain (i.e. in a westerly direction. You'll pass Frans' Kraal (a white house) on your LHS about 100m down the road. Cross the small river at some big smooth boulders. Carry on along the very big path until the big thorn trees start. Just after entering the thron tree forest, turn onto the well worn path that goes up the hill.

Follow the path up the hill until a kraal on your RHS. There should be a path veering left at this stage, following a contour. Follow this path until it veers right up the hill, next to the main river (usually running). The path becomes steep now, staying on the true left of the river, until it levels off slightly and crosses the river. It usually takes 15-25 mins to get to this point.

There should be a very well worn path on the other side, heading south (i.e. away from the river). Head slightly left through the trees to find a good path that gradually takes you onto a ridge. A bit up this path it suddenly opens up and you get a good view of the plain below. Shortly after this, stick to the right and (there are many paths splitting and joining here - they all go more or less the same way, except for the left most one which goes the wrong way). You should now be heading due west again, up a steady ridge. This path is very eroded at times. Eventually, it will level off, go through a small dip past a little stream, and then up a short steep, boulder hopping section through trees until a contour path running north-south is reached. Turn left (south) onto the contour path. It usually takes about an hour to get here.

From here follow paths - and there are more than one option - and head for the middle of the Donjan visible ahead. You are ultimately heading for the left side of the Donjan. If you start heading too far east i.e. towards the right side of the Donjan and the obvious saddle, then you have gone too far. Go back west.

You should be amongst some massive yellowwoods. The perrenial drip of clean water is just higher up. The biggest tree around marks the start of the next section of the walk. It usually takes about 1hr30 to get to the drip.

From behind the big tree, find the path over the boulders and over a big fallen yellowwood trunk. It start off heading south, then turns sharp right and goes very steeply up the boulders. At the top of the steep stuff is a big boulder cave. Follow the path into the thorn tree forest. You cant really go wrong here. After about ten minutes you should pop out the trees onto the beautiful Blouberg plateau.

Choose your own way across the plateau. There is one path that goes at a low level (left) and another easier one, if you can find it, at a high. contour, level (right). Just head in the general direction of the crags due south. You'll find the river immediately below the crags. Turn upstream (right) and follow the river up the little kloof. Climb out on the true right of the kloof. Follow the path up the little valley, veer rightwards over a small ridge into a second small valley, and climb onto the ridge on the other side. Follow this ridge up to a big boulder. Climb the boulder and contour right to the cave. The whole walk usually takes about 2hr30 if you are au fait with the route and anything up to 8 hours if you are not!

=Water=

There is perrenial water in the main pool bleow the BAPM butress. From the cave, walk down the little kloof. Stick in the river bed (bare rock) and carry on downstream for a few minutes. The main pool is in the shade of a big tree.

If you don't want to walk that far, take a length of rubber tube with and use it to drain water out of the small pools that form in the small kloof below the cave. This is useful in the spring months when water is particularly scarce.

There is sometimes water on the summit, near the top of Hey Jude. Dont rely on it though cos its often dry.

=Start of Routes=

Walking down the ramp the first obvious good section of rock above is a big orangey/pink amphitheatre (Lost Tribe Area), about 120 m high. The ramp bottoms out just after walking over some exposed rock under a bulging overhang with a single tree root growing down it. Follow the path as it curves to the left, up then down the boulder hopping at the base of the obvious gulley (Great Gulley). Go up and leftish to the base of the big, steep, scary wall (Wall of White Light) with grass slopes beneath it. Wall of White Light starts approximately halfway between popping out of the bushes and the very obvious corner that leads to a sloping grass ledge 80m up. Psycho Reptile starts towards the right of Wall of White Light. Future Shock, Moonlight, Moonlight Direct, Crack of Adventure and Road to Nowhere all start up the obvious corner. Carry on past bad choss at base of wall until under a massive roof 70m up (Solar Eclipse). Scatterlings breaks through just to the right of the big roof. Eight Miles High starts up cracks just right of Scatterlings. Hey Jude (Bushpig, Tequila Sunrise and Moonshadow share Hey Jude’s start) starts in corner formed by big flake. Hey Jude climbs corner for 5m then steps right and up slabs. Last moon is the very obvious grey corner (40m high) with gnarly crack, about 30m right of big roof. Just around the corner to the right of this is the break taken by Something of Value. Look out for the two bolts on Wow Fuck just to the left of SOV (bolts are about 25m up on a very blank-looking headwall, above a groove). Moonraker starts 15m right of SOV, at big flakes.

=Classic Routes=
25 Tequila Sunrise - steals a few pitches from other routes plus some new pitches. Pretty much a direct line with mostly great gear.

24 Eight Miles High - Awesome, probably the best route on the wall. The pitch off the grass ledge is stiff for 22 and gear isn't great.

22 Scatterlings - Suberb sustained route. The final finger crack is immaculate and technical.

21 Something of Value - Very direct route (if the Tequila Sunrise variation is used instead of the original pitches 5&6). Tricky offwidth at the top.

21 Teddy Bears' Picnic - Excellent sustained route. Bomber gear all the way with a very exposed traverse on pitch 7. Pitch 8 has 2 bolts (replaced in Sept 2005).

20 Hey Jude - Good technical climing on the crux, mixed with thrashing crack climbing higher up. Well protected route, and the off-width isnt that bad.

19 Last Moon - Hard, awesome first pitch (more like 20), and the higher pitches on chickenhead faces are absolutely brilliant. Mostly good gear.

21 Big Corner - Great climbing on excellent rock. It's worth doing the Maleboch scramble to avoid the original first pitches.

22 Moonlight Direct - Good climbing. Long and hard grade 22 pitch with some suspect rock on the easy pitch off the grass ledge

20 Bushpig - A fast route at grade 20 with some fun chimneys towards the top. Follows the rap ladder. The grade 20-pitch of Hey Jude forms the crux.

19 Moonraker - Crux pitch is long and awesome with varied climbing. Pitches up to the grassy ledge are tricky

=Bouldering=

There is a great bouldering area in the small valley thet heads up towards Avalon (bolted route, 26). When standing in the cave, Avalon is the striking yellow wall to the north east. To get to the bouldering, walk to the top pools. Head eastwards for a minute or two over the grassy meadow. The bouldering valley will open up on your right, with the Avalon wall forming the head of the valley.

Another good bouldering area is near the bottom pools. From the cave go down the little kloof. Stick on the true left of the river and find your way down to the bottom pools. About 150 m downstream of the big pot-hole pool, on the true left of the river is a 5 m high gently overhanging wall. The wall is maybe 50 m wide.

=Cave Area Climbs=

On the true right of the bouldering valley leading up to Avalon is a very nice 16 hand and finger crack, Grand Illusion, (about 30 m below Avalon) opened by Mike Cartwright in 1990. Theres a good 21 on the face just to the left of the crack as follows:

Start about 2 m left of Grand Illusion. Climb up then follow the grips up and leftwards to get gear on the arete. Finish up rightwards to top out. This was opened on pre-placed gear. Gear is minimal and not very good.
FA: Steve Crowe, April 2005

All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. This is a great route. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28)

=Tips for Some of the Routes=

==Something of Value (21)==
The 2nd pitch after the grass ledge goes up to a rail, then rails left to a corner. The original route climbs the corner for 3 m then buggers off left across an unprotected slab. This is hard and scary 21. Intead of traversing left, continue climbing the corner to the small roof that caps it. Step up and right to a peg, then some slab moves to another peg until able to move up and right into the main corner feature. Follow the corner to the overhang and pull this to get into the corner of the 6th pitch of SOV. Climb the easy (15) corner to the jumbo ledge. This pitch is from Tequila Sunrise and gets ***** with very good gear and wild steep climbing. Its also about grade 21.

==Teddy Bears' Picnic (21)==
The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These were replaced with new 10 mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.

==Dreams of White Dogs (26)and Dog of Thunder (30A0) ==
[[Image:Dreams of White Dogs topo.JPG||800px‎]]

Blouberg

2012-11-15T19:03:57Z

Toprope:

{{Infobox Area
| Latitude = -23.081469
| Longitude = 29.038661
| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
| Rock Type = Sandstone
| Season =
| Province = Limopop
| Area = Blouberg

}}
Big wall trad climbing with many excellent routes of upto 12 pitches on good rock. A truly African setting worth the long drive to get there. Its best not to venture out here alone, you would certainly get lost.

[[Image:Blouberg North Wall Limpopo Province, South Africa.jpg|right]]

=Route Guide=
[[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Blouberg_Route_Guide_6_2011_12_12.pdf | Click here to download the Blouberg Route Guide by Hector Pringle]]

[[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Blouberg_photo_topo_Rev_0.pdf | Click here to download the Blouberg Photo Guide by Hector Pringle]]

=Directions=

==Walking Directions==
There basically two different walk-ins: African Ivory and Frans' Kraal. The African Ivory route tackles the mountain from the south and basically foolows the big watercourse, the source of which is the top pools near the cave. The Frans' Kraal route comes in from the east, and heads up a biggish river valley, then gets onto the ridge forming the valley bank. Once the big plateau is reached, the route goes clockwise around the southern Donjon, up to the top plateau.

General consensus is that Fran's Kraal is by far the better walk. You start ascending almost immediately on this walk, as opposed to African Ivory where it takes ages to reach the first steep bit. It is probably equally likely to get lost on either walk.

==Frans' Kraal==

Parking is no longer at Frans' Kraal, but rather at Isaac's Kraal. Isaac is a relative of Frans (son? nephew? grandson?) and the road virtually runs into his place. (The Rondawels have gone). His property is guarded by a fence with "white metal gates". From the house walk down the road towards the mountain (i.e. in a westerly direction. You'll pass Frans' Kraal (a white house) on your LHS about 100m down the road. Cross the small river at some big smooth boulders. Carry on along the very big path until the big thorn trees start. Just after entering the thron tree forest, turn onto the well worn path that goes up the hill.

Follow the path up the hill until a kraal on your RHS. There should be a path veering left at this stage, following a contour. Follow this path until it veers right up the hill, next to the main river (usually running). The path becomes steep now, staying on the true left of the river, until it levels off slightly and crosses the river. It usually takes 15-25 mins to get to this point.

There should be a very well worn path on the other side, heading south (i.e. away from the river). Head slightly left through the trees to find a good path that gradually takes you onto a ridge. A bit up this path it suddenly opens up and you get a good view of the plain below. Shortly after this, stick to the right and (there are many paths splitting and joining here - they all go more or less the same way, except for the left most one which goes the wrong way). You should now be heading due west again, up a steady ridge. This path is very eroded at times. Eventually, it will level off, go through a small dip past a little stream, and then up a short steep, boulder hopping section through trees until a contour path running north-south is reached. Turn left (south) onto the contour path. It usually takes about an hour to get here.

From here follow paths - and there are more than one option - and head for the middle of the Donjan visible ahead. You are ultimately heading for the left side of the Donjan. If you start heading too far east i.e. towards the right side of the Donjan and the obvious saddle, then you have gone too far. Go back west.

You should be amongst some massive yellowwoods. The perrenial drip of clean water is just higher up. The biggest tree around marks the start of the next section of the walk. It usually takes about 1hr30 to get to the drip.

From behind the big tree, find the path over the boulders and over a big fallen yellowwood trunk. It start off heading south, then turns sharp right and goes very steeply up the boulders. At the top of the steep stuff is a big boulder cave. Follow the path into the thorn tree forest. You cant really go wrong here. After about ten minutes you should pop out the trees onto the beautiful Blouberg plateau.

Choose your own way across the plateau. There is one path that goes at a low level (left) and another easier one, if you can find it, at a high. contour, level (right). Just head in the general direction of the crags due south. You'll find the river immediately below the crags. Turn upstream (right) and follow the river up the little kloof. Climb out on the true right of the kloof. Follow the path up the little valley, veer rightwards over a small ridge into a second small valley, and climb onto the ridge on the other side. Follow this ridge up to a big boulder. Climb the boulder and contour right to the cave. The whole walk usually takes about 2hr30 if you are au fait with the route and anything up to 8 hours if you are not!

=Water=

There is perrenial water in the main pool bleow the BAPM butress. From the cave, walk down the little kloof. Stick in the river bed (bare rock) and carry on downstream for a few minutes. The main pool is in the shade of a big tree.

If you don't want to walk that far, take a length of rubber tube with and use it to drain water out of the small pools that form in the small kloof below the cave. This is useful in the spring months when water is particularly scarce.

There is sometimes water on the summit, near the top of Hey Jude. Dont rely on it though cos its often dry.

=Start of Routes=

Walking down the ramp the first obvious good section of rock above is a big orangey/pink amphitheatre (Lost Tribe Area), about 120 m high. The ramp bottoms out just after walking over some exposed rock under a bulging overhang with a single tree root growing down it. Follow the path as it curves to the left, up then down the boulder hopping at the base of the obvious gulley (Great Gulley). Go up and leftish to the base of the big, steep, scary wall (Wall of White Light) with grass slopes beneath it. Wall of White Light starts approximately halfway between popping out of the bushes and the very obvious corner that leads to a sloping grass ledge 80m up. Psycho Reptile starts towards the right of Wall of White Light. Future Shock, Moonlight, Moonlight Direct, Crack of Adventure and Road to Nowhere all start up the obvious corner. Carry on past bad choss at base of wall until under a massive roof 70m up (Solar Eclipse). Scatterlings breaks through just to the right of the big roof. Eight Miles High starts up cracks just right of Scatterlings. Hey Jude (Bushpig, Tequila Sunrise and Moonshadow share Hey Jude’s start) starts in corner formed by big flake. Hey Jude climbs corner for 5m then steps right and up slabs. Last moon is the very obvious grey corner (40m high) with gnarly crack, about 30m right of big roof. Just around the corner to the right of this is the break taken by Something of Value. Look out for the two bolts on Wow Fuck just to the left of SOV (bolts are about 25m up on a very blank-looking headwall, above a groove). Moonraker starts 15m right of SOV, at big flakes.

=Classic Routes=
25 Tequila Sunrise - steals a few pitches from other routes plus some new pitches. Pretty much a direct line with mostly great gear.

24 Eight Miles High - Awesome, probably the best route on the wall. The pitch off the grass ledge is stiff for 22 and gear isn't great.

22 Scatterlings - Suberb sustained route. The final finger crack is immaculate and technical.

21 Something of Value - Very direct route (if the Tequila Sunrise variation is used instead of the original pitches 5&6). Tricky offwidth at the top.

21 Teddy Bears' Picnic - Excellent sustained route. Bomber gear all the way with a very exposed traverse on pitch 7. Pitch 8 has 2 bolts (replaced in Sept 2005).

20 Hey Jude - Good technical climing on the crux, mixed with thrashing crack climbing higher up. Well protected route, and the off-width isnt that bad.

19 Last Moon - Hard, awesome first pitch (more like 20), and the higher pitches on chickenhead faces are absolutely brilliant. Mostly good gear.

21 Big Corner - Great climbing on excellent rock. It's worth doing the Maleboch scramble to avoid the original first pitches.

22 Moonlight Direct - Good climbing. Long and hard grade 22 pitch with some suspect rock on the easy pitch off the grass ledge

20 Bushpig - A fast route at grade 20 with some fun chimneys towards the top. Follows the rap ladder. The grade 20-pitch of Hey Jude forms the crux.

19 Moonraker - Crux pitch is long and awesome with varied climbing. Pitches up to the grassy ledge are tricky

=Bouldering=

There is a great bouldering area in the small valley thet heads up towards Avalon (bolted route, 26). When standing in the cave, Avalon is the striking yellow wall to the north east. To get to the bouldering, walk to the top pools. Head eastwards for a minute or two over the grassy meadow. The bouldering valley will open up on your right, with the Avalon wall forming the head of the valley.

Another good bouldering area is near the bottom pools. From the cave go down the little kloof. Stick on the true left of the river and find your way down to the bottom pools. About 150 m downstream of the big pot-hole pool, on the true left of the river is a 5 m high gently overhanging wall. The wall is maybe 50 m wide.

=Cave Area Climbs=

On the true right of the bouldering valley leading up to Avalon is a very nice 16 hand and finger crack, Grand Illusion, (about 30 m below Avalon) opened by Mike Cartwright in 1990. Theres a good 21 on the face just to the left of the crack as follows:

Start about 2 m left of Grand Illusion. Climb up then follow the grips up and leftwards to get gear on the arete. Finish up rightwards to top out. This was opened on pre-placed gear. Gear is minimal and not very good.
FA: Steve Crowe, April 2005

All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. This is a great route. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28)

=Tips for Some of the Routes=

==Something of Value (21)==
The 2nd pitch after the grass ledge goes up to a rail, then rails left to a corner. The original route climbs the corner for 3 m then buggers off left across an unprotected slab. This is hard and scary 21. Intead of traversing left, continue climbing the corner to the small roof that caps it. Step up and right to a peg, then some slab moves to another peg until able to move up and right into the main corner feature. Follow the corner to the overhang and pull this to get into the corner of the 6th pitch of SOV. Climb the easy (15) corner to the jumbo ledge. This pitch is from Tequila Sunrise and gets ***** with very good gear and wild steep climbing. Its also about grade 21.

==Teddy Bears' Picnic (21)==
The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These were replaced with new 10 mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.

==Dreams of White Dogs (26)and Dog of Thunder (30A0) ==
[[Image:Dreams of White Dogs topo.JPG||800px‎]]

Template:Infobox Area

2012-11-15T08:31:00Z

Toprope:

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