South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance

2010-06-30T17:26:08Z

Vince egan: Created page with '<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-33.92748" lon="24.259787" zoom="14"> (A) -33.924301, 24.249397 Bobbejaankop (B) -33.927547, 24.268979 African Rennaissance </googlemap>'

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-33.92748" lon="24.259787" zoom="14">
(A) -33.924301, 24.249397
Bobbejaankop
(B) -33.927547, 24.268979
African Rennaissance
</googlemap>

Kleinrivier

2010-06-30T17:19:36Z

Vince egan:

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-33.710489" lon="23.836727" zoom="13">
(A) -33.721022, 23.842514
Leopard Rock
(B) -33.720803, 23.843137
Pinky-Purple Wall
(C) -33.698696, 23.828052
Immolation Wall
(D) -33.715464, 23.842755
Guest House
(E) -33.715785, 23.843001
Camp Site
</googlemap>

2010-04-25T16:23:08Z

Vince egan:

[[Image: Ngopane.jpg]]
== Routes: ==
To date there are two routes up the Ngopane spire: one moderate three-pitch sport route to the summit with fantastic exposure and an easy 45m trad line almost half-way up the crag. There is also an easier scramble off the back of the crag from the top-out of the trad line.
[[Image: ngopane_routes_1+2.jpg]]
'''1. Mma-Mogašwa (11, trad, 45m)''' 
Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's eastern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders). ''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - October 2009''

'''2. Lekgowa, You're Going to Fall! (16, sport, 3 pitches, 100m)''' 
This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete. 
- Pitch 1 (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance. 
- Pitch 2 (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge. 
- Pitch 3 (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull a bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors. 
- Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground. 
''FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan - 1 April, 2010 [BB: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan]''

== Location: ==
Ngopane is a granite spire, nearly 100m in height, about 50 km to the north-east of Wellington's Dome, in the village of ga-Mashashane. The crag is in the middle of the village and the general reception there is friendly and chilled out.
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-23.931936" lon="29.125271" zoom="16">
</googlemap>

== Access: ==
Access is currently being negotiated via Kgoshi Mashashane - watch this spot for details! Note that, regardless of the access agreement agreed to, all climbers need to report at the tribal authority office before climbing. Need more details? - contact Vince at vince.egan@gmail.com.

Vince egan: /* Eastern Cape */

[[Image:Map_main.gif|right]]
Welcome to the '''ClimbZA Routes Wiki''', an online rock climbing guide that '''you can edit'''. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes.

To edit the wiki you need to have a forum user name and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current user name to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

== General Information ==

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. [[Oudtshoorn]] crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in [[Montagu]], a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. [[Waterval Boven]] is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous [[The Wave Cave|Wave Cave]] at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at [[Rocklands]] in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

*[[MCSA]] (search and rescue, permits and access)
*[[Bolting information]]

==Areas==

=== Western Cape ===
*Du Toit's Kloof
**[[Hellfire]]
**[[Country Climbing|Multipitch Climbs]]
**[[Yellowwood Amphitheatre]]
*[[Bain's Kloof]]
*Cederberg
**[[Bushman's Kloof Nature Reserve]]
**[[Vanrhynsdorp]]
** [[Tafelberg]]
**[[Wolfberg]]
**[[Truitjieskraal]]
**[[Krakadow]]
**Rocklands Area
***[[Rocklands]]
***[[De Pakhuys]]
***[[Riethuis]]
**[[Winterbach]]
*[[Montagu]]
*[[Swellendam]]
*[[Swartberg Pass]]
*Cape Peninsula
A note on the weather: If the wind is blowing SE which is common in summer, we have what Cape-Climbers refer to as the "Schlorck Factor" at some of the crags; the rock becomes so slippery and even damp that it seems as if someone smeared oil onto the holds. Climbing is near impossible unless you have a bucket of chalk to compensate! This effect is caused by sea water being blown onto the crags (from afar that is).

Crags affected: The Mine, The Hole, Silvermine Crags, Elsies Peak, Kalk Bay Crags, Peers Cave...

The rock friction is rarely if ever altered on the climbs that start at the "Ledge" on Table Mountain.

When the North Wester blows, it generally means that bad weather is on the way (but it could take a day or two to arrive.) The air can be warm and balmy before the clouds race in from the Atlantic. If Lions Head mountain is covered in cloud there is a high chance its going to rain in the next couple of hours.

When a so called cold "front" approaches then the best escape is to head to Montagu where a rain shadow protects the area from rain. As the front moves in from the sea over the peninsula there will be some delay before it gets to Paarl and then the Du Toit's Kloof range will also hold back the front for half a day or so. So one can climb at Paarl Rocks or Hellfire crag for a morning or afternoon. Unfortunately, as the "front" approaches it can get very windy in the Du Toit's pass as it acts as a chute.

The Cedarberg can also be considered but depending on the size of the front, it can rain there too.

Of the crags within an hour two of Cape Town, Karbonaatjies Kraal is the last crag to be affected by wet weather.
*[[India Venster Trail]]
**[[The Mine]]
**[[The Underside]]
**[[Foreign Policy]]
**[[Silvermine Crags]]
**[[Elsies Peak]]
**[[Higgovale Quarry]]
**[[Hout Bay]] - Bokkemanskloof, Chapman's Peak, Skoorsteenkop, The Sentinel
**[[Kalk Bay]]
**[[Lakeside Pinnacle]]
**[[Lion's Head]] - Granite & Sandstone
**[[Muizenberg Buttress]]
**[[Peers Cave]]
**[[Table Mountain]]
**[[The Hole]]
** Peninsula Bouldering Areas
***[[New Joshua Tree]]
***[[Silvermine Boulder]]
***[[Topside]]
***[[Llandudno]]
***[[Redhill]]
*[[Paarl Rocks]]
*[[Oudtshoorn]]
*[[Karbonaatjieskraal]]
*[[Kleinmond]]
*[[Elands Bay]]
*[[Towerkop]]

=== Eastern Cape ===
*[[Kleinrivier]]
*[[Bobbejaankop]]
*[[Cape St Francis]]
*[[Fort Fordyce]]
*[[Hogsback]]
*[[Morgan Bay]]
*[[Pinnacle Gorge]]
*[[The Shire]]
*[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]
*[[Windmill Hole]]
*[[NSA, East London]]
*[[Buffalo River]]

=== Free State ===
*[[Langberg]]
*[[Eagle Mountain|Harrismith - Eagle Mountain]] (formally known as Mount Everest)
*[[Swinburne]]

=== KwaZulu Natal ===
*[[The Wave Cave|Shongweni - The Wave Cave]]
*[[Shongweni Dam]]
*[[Monteseel]]
*[[Kloof Gorge]]
*[[Drakensberg]]
*[[White Umfolozi River]]
*[[Howick Falls]]
*[[Umgeni Valley]]
*[[Winston Park]]

=== Limpopo Province===
*[[Blouberg]]
*[[Wellingtons Dome]]
*[[Makapansgat]]

=== Mpumalanga ===
*[[Waterval Boven]]
*[[Sabie Gorge]]
*[[Blydepoort]]
*[[Jim's Crag, Olifantshoek]]
*[[Wilgerpoort]]
*[[Ngwempisi]]
*[[GoldRush Bouldering]]
*[[Croc River Canyon]]

=== Gauteng ===
*[[Bronkies]]
*[[Bobbejaans Berg]]
*[[Melville Koppies]]
*[[The Glade]]
*[[Mutango Lodge]]
*[[Northcliff]]
*[[Plumbago Nature Reserve Bouldering]]
*[[Radioactive]]
*[[Strubens Valley]]
*[[Strubens 2]]
*[[The Chosspile]]

=== Northwest Province ===
* [[Magaliesberg]]
* [[Potchefstroom Crag]]
* [[Wigwam]]
* [[Secret Garden Bouldering]]

=== Namibia ===
*[[Spitzkoppe & Pontoks]]
*[[Aussenkehr]]

=== [[Botswana]] ===
*[[Kgale Hill]]
*[[Mmopane Hill]]
*[[Mogonye]]
*[[Kanye]]
*[[Moshupa and Thamaga]]
*[[Otse]]
*[[Tswapong Hills]]
*[[Motlhabaneng]]

=== [[Lesotho]] ===

==Route Hit List==

* [[Trad Hit List]]
* [[Sport Hit List]]

==Editing the Wiki==

===Naming a New Article===

Choose a '''specific name''' for your '''new article'''. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of [[Special:Popularpages|popular pages]], then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "[[Bronkies]]," "[[Waterval Boven]]," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "<nowiki>[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]</nowiki>" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a ''link'' that says [[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]], (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

===Further Information===
Consult the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Meta-Wiki Editing Help] for further information on wiki editing.

==Note==
Google maps currently does not work on [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climb.co.za/wiki]: Use the [http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki www.climbing.co.za/wiki] URL instead (i.e. climb''ing'' instead of climb).