South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki - User contributions [en]

File:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg

2011-06-13T18:19:55Z

Xmod:

Kalk Bay

2011-06-13T18:18:41Z

Xmod: /* The lower tier crags */

37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.

== Gear ==
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== New Route Development (Bolting) ==
There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. NB: Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.

== Getting there ==
Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

East side: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side: From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).
=== The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags ===
=== The Boatyard ===
Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher 
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis

=== Neptunes Cove ===

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.

=== Oyster Box ===
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]

[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16/5c FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis

6. Pocket Rocket 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis

[[image:Sinbad.jpg]]

1. Sinbad 18/6a FA Ross Suter

=== Mermaid Wall ===
This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.

[[image:Mermaid wall.jpg]]

1. Jack in the Green 22/6c FA Beth Higgins

2. Songs from the Wood 18/6a FA Tony Lourens

3. City Rockers 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.

4. Mermaid 16/5c FA Ross Suter

=== The lower tier crags ===

[[image:K Bay lower tier topo3.jpg]]

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
1. Open Project 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.

2. Dark Angel 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.

3. Xses 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.

3a. Excessive Xses 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.

4. Dickless Tics 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes

5. Space Wasp 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.

6. Sunset Arete 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.

=== The Treasure Chest ===
One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.

7. Open Project 8b?

8. Golden Eye 30/8a FA Nick Mathews

9. Wysiwig 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.

10. Tetris 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.

=== Mini Roof ===
Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking) 
[[image:Kalkbay mini roof.jpg|600px]]
[[image:Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg|340px]]
 
1. Roofie 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
2. Ninja Warrior 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.

Kalk Bay

2011-06-13T18:18:03Z

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T20:23:31Z

Xmod: /* Topos / Routes */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).
=== The Boatyard ===
Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher 
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown 
Right of cave from the raised ledge.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.

=== Oyster Box ===
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]

[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16 FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis

6. Pocket Rocket 26/7b FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T20:19:10Z

Xmod: /* The climbing */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown 
Right of cave from the raised ledge.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.

=== Oyster Box ===
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]

[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16 FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis

6. Pocket Rocket 26/7b FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T20:18:13Z

Xmod: /* Gear */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

[[image:Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg]]

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

[[image:Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg]]

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown 
Right of cave from the raised ledge.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.

=== Oyster Box ===
[[image:Oyster Box.jpg]]

[[image:Catfish to Art of War.jpg]]

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16 FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis

6. Pocket Rocket 26/7b FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

File:Catfish to Art of War.jpg

2011-05-29T20:17:03Z

Xmod:

File:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg

2011-05-29T19:05:22Z

Xmod:

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T19:03:47Z

Xmod: /* Dockside */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

Right Sector

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west).jpg]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T18:59:39Z

Xmod: /* Dockside */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
Left Sector

[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west.jpg)]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T18:57:42Z

Xmod: /* Dockside */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

Left Sector

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west.jpg)]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T18:52:28Z

Xmod: /* Dockside */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west.jpeg)]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

File:Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg

2011-05-29T18:43:06Z

Xmod:

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T18:37:38Z

Xmod: /* Dockside */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter. Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub! 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

[[image:Dockside right sector (from east)]]

[[image:Dockside right sector (from west)]]

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Kalk Bay

2011-05-29T18:32:13Z

Xmod: /* Route Update */

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Season ==
Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

== Rock ==
Sandstone

== Gear ==
Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

== The climbing ==
This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

== Getting there ==
East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove. 
West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg]]

== Topos / Routes ==
=== Dockside ===
[[image:Dockside left sector.jpg]]

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter 

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis 

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis 

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner. 

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart 

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Unknown 

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Unknown 

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

=== Neptunes Cove ===
* Hang Thang (20) 
Left of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Kill Bill (23) 
Right of Cling Thing. 
FA Greg Hart
* Unnamed (22) 
Right of cave from the raised ledge (#12 in book). 
FA Unknown.
* Arete (18 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Flake right of Arete (19 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Thin face in middle (23 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Right edge of thin face (21 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* Juggy line right of thin face (16 - toprope) 
See note below. 
FA ?
* The Needle (26) 
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

 
Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.
 

=== Oyster Box ===
Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting. 
* Heartbreak (29) 
Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right. 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* The Art of War (32) 
Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

=== Blackbeards Cave ===
* Dark Angel (30) 
Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.
* Xses (24) 
Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book). 
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.
* Unnamed (25/26) 
Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book). 
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

File:Dockside left sector.jpg

2011-05-29T18:30:43Z

Xmod: