Alternative Rock - Revision history

Toprope at 19:37, 2 February 2012

2012-02-02T19:37:32Z

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Toprope at 14:37, 2 February 2012

2012-02-02T14:37:03Z

Toprope at 12:24, 2 February 2012

2012-02-02T12:24:17Z

Toprope: Created page with "A great sport cliff. It faces south west so is in the shade all morning until around midday or longer in winter. It is perfect for summer, and a bit too cold in winter. The ..."

2012-02-02T12:20:22Z

Created page with "A great sport cliff. It faces south west so is in the shade all morning until around midday or longer in winter. It is perfect for summer, and a bit too cold in winter. The ..."

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A great sport cliff. It faces south west so is in the shade all morning until around midday or longer in winter. It is perfect for summer, and a bit too cold in winter.

The face is on the south (back side) of Mount Everest, it can’t be seen from any of the other crags or roads.To get there take the road that runs from the reception area towards the camp site and park on some rough grass on the right just after a bend. Find the faint trail and head up hill towards the shoulder of the mountain. After a flat section trend down the other side diagonally until under the obvious cliffs; the path then climbs up to the base of the cliff.

[[File:Harrismith guide 15.gif]]

== Route List ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes are listed from right to left because climbers usually work their way along the crag in this direction
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
|#
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|GRADE
|# OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS)
|RATING
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
|DESCRIPTION
|}

1. Trinity Session (16) 10D ***
FA: Glen Harrison (1995)
From the cave, walk along the ledge to the right for about 10m. The route takes the last line of bolts along the face. The ledge is quite exposed at this point, so clip in at the base of the route before belaying. The crux can be avoided by moving up and around to the right to reach the lower off bolts. Place your ropes with care to avoid sharp edges when lowering.
2. Aggro Grannies (17) 8D ***
FA: Glen Harrison and Mike Behr (1996)
Climb the pocketed face just left of 'Trinity Session'.
3. Pressure Cookie (18) 9D ****
FA: Ruth Behr (1996)
Start from a semi-hanging stance and climb the line of bolts immediately left of 'Aggro Grannies'.
4. Long Haired Freaky People (18) 8D ****
FA: Mike Behr and Glen Harrison (1996)
Climb the bolts immediately left of 'Pressure Cookie'. By now you should be about 4m to the right of the cave.
5. I Saw Elvis At The Chains (19) 10D ****
FA: Mike and Ruth Behr (1995)
Start up the first three bolts of 'Some Girls Wonder' and then climb straight up the dark wall to the right of 'Opening Night'. This is a fine sequence of boulder problems at a medium grade on a vertical wall.
6. Opening Night (23) 10D *****
FA: Dave Walden (1996)
One of the best climbs at Everest, some run out sections but perfectly safe. Climb diagonally left up the first four bolts of 'Some Girls Wonder' then climb straight up the blackish face toward the bush (15 m up). Finished way up high on the orange headwall via some underclings and a pump.
7. Some Girls Wonder (21) 12D ****
FA: Gunther Migeotte (1995)
Start at the right-hand edge of the cave and climb up diagonally left over the top of the cave until you are about 3m left of the start. Continue straight up to the first set of anchors.
8. By Mistake (26) 16D **
FA: Gunther Migeotte (1995)
This is simply a short extension of 'Some Girls Wonder'. Continue straight up the orange head wall to the next set of anchors.
9. Dented Karma (22) 11D **
FA: Alard Hufner
Follow the line of bolts near the left-hand side of the cave.
10. Gaper Trail (24) 11D **
FA: Matthew Murrison
The line left of 'Dented Karma'.
11. Cosmic Girl – (28) ****
Bolted by Colin Crabtree (1997) FA: Harry Crews 2011
Best of the harder climbs. Start on the pockets then up and slightly right. Don’t use the obvious “death underclings’. Great power endure!
12. Space Cowboy (27/28) 14D ***
FA: Glen Harrison (1996)
This route takes the line of bolts immediately left of the 'Cosmic Girl' project. The steep bouldery start (crux) is followed by excellent, exposed climbing. Some holds may have deteriorated on the headwall, could be harder than 27..?
13. Alice In Chains (24) 10D ****
FA: Gunther Migeotte and Mike Behr (1995)
A great steep pump! The leftmost line on the face up the juggy steep stuff. Climb straight up, breaking through an overlap about one third of the way up the route.

The next six routes from 'Suicide Blonde' to 'Jagged Little Pill' start from a ledge a few metres above the pathway to the left of the cave. Either scramble up to the ledge on the right below 'Suicide Blonde', or walk around to the left and scramble up below 'Jagged Little Pill'.
Do not attempt to climb straight up to the routes that start from the centre of the ledge, as the rock below the ledge is loose and unprotected.
14. Suicide Blonde (22) 7D ****
FA: Mike and Ruth Behr (1995)
Start from the extreme right hand edge of the ledge on top of the boulder. This is a powerful and technical route.
15. Dancing in the Dark (23) 8D ***
FA: Arno Naude (1995)
Take the line to the left of 'Suicide Blonde'.
16. Red, Red Wine (22) 10D **
FA: Arno Naude and Gerhard Kruger (1996)
Start about 4m to the left of 'Dancing in the Dark'. This is yet another steep and testing line.
17. Simply the Best (22) 7D *****
FA: Arno Naude (1995)
To the left of 'Red, Red Wine'. This is an excellent line - pumpy and reachy.
18. Fergus Sings the Blues (23) 7D ***
FA: Mike Behr (1995)
To the left of 'Simply the Best'. Another pumpy and reachy line.
19. Jagged Little Pill (22) 7D ***
FA: Ruth Behr (1997)
This is the left-most line starting from the ledge. Belay from the tree in the corner and climb the line of bolts 2m to the left of 'Fergus Sings the Blues'.

The following routes are further to the left on a much shorter wall that is separated from the previous section of the mountain by a deep gully. To reach these routes, continue walking to along the path to the left, up a rise past a tree and down the other side to the small cave.
20. Grimly Fiendish (26) 6D ***
FA: Colin Crabtree (1996) Bolted by Glen Harrison
This route takes the first line of bolts after the gully. This is a fierce line with a committing dyno crux.
21. Keep the Change (22) 7D ***
FA: Mike Behr (1995)
Climb the left-hand side of the flake just to the left of 'Grimly Fiendish'.
22. Buckets Full of Sickness (21) 7D ****
FA: Ruth Behr (1995)
Start 2m left of 'Keep the Change' and climb the right-hand side of the flake.
23. Little Wibbler (20) 5D ***
FA: Glen Harrison and Mike Behr (1996)
Start to the left of 'Buckets Full of Sickness' and 2m to the right of an obvious corner.
24. Ts and Cs (25) 7D **
FA: Ian Guest (1996)
Caution: Beware of loose rock. This steep line starts left of the corner and follows a series of pockets and under clings.
25. Tim’s Project
The line of bolts to the left of 'Ts and Cs'. Note: The bolts are unsafe at this stage.
26. Broiler on a Razor Blade - Project (26) 7D ***
Bolted by Stephan lsebeck and Russel Basset. This should be an open project by now? It is a short route that disappears around a fierce-looking bulge.
27. Diving Board (23) 7D ***
FA: Ian Guest (1996)
This is the fourth and final line of bolts to the left of the corner. It is a steep, juggy line that requires a good reach.

[[Category: Mount Everest]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:24, 2 February 2012
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	This is the fourth and final line of bolts to the left of the corner. It is a steep, juggy line that requires a good reach.		This is the fourth and final line of bolts to the left of the corner. It is a steep, juggy line that requires a good reach.

−	[[Category: Mount Everest]]	+	[[Category:Mount Everest]]

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 |BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 |DESCRIPTION
 |}
 . Space Cowboy (27/28) 14D ***
 FA: Glen Harrison (1996)