Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"

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(How to get there)
(Crags in Bad Kloof)
Line 31: Line 31:
 
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
 
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
  
== Berlin Wall ==
 
  
 +
== The Penthouse ==
  
*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.
 
  
 +
== Waterworld ==
 +
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
 +
 +
*'''Waterworld History'''
 +
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
 +
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 +
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
 +
 +
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
 +
 +
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 48: Line 58:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
|Minefield
+
|Monkey See Monkey Do
|6c/22
+
|19/6a/6a+
|5 Bolts
+
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|2.
+
|2.  
|Vays und Meenz
+
|Arendsig
|7a/24
+
|18/6a
|11 Bolts
+
|8 Bolts
|
+
|*****
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|3.
+
|3.  
|Streef Bogananoff
+
|Walk On By
|7a/24
+
|23/6c+
 
|8 Bolts
 
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|4.
+
|4.  
|Hot Toddy Bension
+
|Some Would Say
|7c/28
+
|26/7b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.  
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.  
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|5.
+
|5.  
|Brandenburg Gate
+
|Simply Irresistable
|6b+/21
+
|27/7b+
|8 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts  
 
|
 
|
|FA. M Jåger
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
 +
|(Branches left)
 +
|-
 +
|5.b
 +
|The Singularity
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
 +
|(veers right)
 
|-
 
|-
|6.
+
|6.  
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
+
|Firestarter!
|27/7b+
+
|29/7c+
|4 Bolts
+
|9 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|7.
+
|7.  
| <open project>
+
|My Route Down By The River
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
|
 
|
 
|BB. Stuart Brown
 
|}
 
 
== Jurrasic Park ==
 
 
*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
 
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
|8.  
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|Chongalolo
|GRADE
+
|Project
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Against the Grain
+
|7c/28
+
|7 Bolts
+
 
|
 
|
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
 
 
|
 
|
|-
+
|BB: Matt Bush.
|2.
+
|Jabulani
+
|7c/28
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
+
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|3.
+
|9.  
|Big Bag Voodoo
+
|Twist And Crawl
|5/17
+
|28/7c
|
+
|12 Bolts
|
+
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|4.
+
|10.  
| <project>
+
|The Mission
|
+
|24/7a
|
+
|5 Bolts
|
+
|
+
 
|
 
|
 +
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
 +
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
 
|-
 
|-
|5.
+
|11.  
|Masawattee
+
|Sidewinder
|35/8c+
+
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
+
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|6.
+
|12.  
|Nugget Slab
+
|Creepy Crawly
|18/6a
+
|20/6a+
|8 Bolts
+
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
|
 
|
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
 
|On slab opposing overhang.
 
 
|}
 
|}
  
== The Laundry ==
 
  
*'''The Laundry Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.
 
  
 +
 +
 +
 +
== Peanut Gallery ==
 +
 +
*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 184: Line 182:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
|Super Blue
+
|Good Day for Basketball
|24/7a
+
|22/6c
|5 Bolts
+
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
+
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
|Stay Soft
+
|Finding Ningo
|26/7b
+
|27/7b+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
+
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|3.
| <open project>
+
| <unknown>
|
+
|31/8a+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
| <open project>
+
|
+
|
+
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 +
|FA. <unknown>
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
Line 271: Line 260:
 
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
 
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
 
|
 
|
|}
 
 
== Peanut Gallery ==
 
 
*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|# BOLTS
 
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|Good Day for Basketball
 
|22/6c
 
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
 
|
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|Finding Ningo
 
|27/7b+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
 
|
 
|-
 
|3.
 
| <unknown>
 
|31/8a+
 
|
 
|
 
|FA. <unknown>
 
|
 
|}
 
 
== Pipeline ==
 
 
 
*'''Pipeline Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|# BOLTS
 
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|1.
 
| <Open Project>
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|2.
 
| <Open Project>
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|3.
 
| <Open Project>
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|4.
 
| <Open Project>
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
 
== Playground ==
 
 
*'''Playground Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|# BOLTS
 
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|Jungle Gym Junkie
 
|5c/18
 
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
 
|
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|Jungle Jim
 
|6a/19
 
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 
|
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|See Saw
 
|4/15
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 
|
 
|-
 
|4.
 
|The Jester
 
|6c+/24
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
 
|
 
|-
 
|5.
 
|Party-on Wayne
 
|7a/25
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 
|
 
|-
 
|6.
 
|Jus Klup Ut
 
|7b+/27
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 
|
 
|-
 
|7.
 
|Powerplay
 
|7a+/25
 
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. E February. 1995.
 
|
 
|-
 
|8.
 
|Fun in the Sun
 
|6b+/22
 
|3 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
 
|
 
|}
 
 
== The Rage ==
 
 
 
*'''The Rage Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|# BOLTS
 
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|Bullet in the Head
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
 
|This route is manufactured.
 
 
|}
 
|}
  
 
== Sloth ==
 
== Sloth ==
 
== South Park ==
 
 
 
*'''South Park Route List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|# BOLTS
 
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
 
|7a/25
 
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
 
|
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|Who Killed Kenny?
 
|7b+/27
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
 
|
 
|}
 
  
 
== Supertubes ==
 
== Supertubes ==
Line 641: Line 409:
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
  
== The Hotel ==
 
  
*'''The Hotel Route List'''
+
== Pipeline ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
+
 
 +
 
 +
*'''Pipeline Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.  
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 656: Line 426:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
|The Key
+
| <Open Project>
|27/7b+
+
|
|5 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
|The bellboys, The bellboys
+
| <Open Project>
|26/7b
+
|
|6 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
 
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|3.
 
|3.
|U Like Jamin?
+
| <Open Project>
|23/6c+
+
|
|6 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
 
 
|-
 
|-
 
|4.
 
|4.
|Rim Service
+
| <Open Project>
|24/7a
+
|
|6 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
== The Swamp ==
+
== South Park ==
  
*'''The Swamp Route List'''
+
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
+
*'''South Park Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.  
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 703: Line 474:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
|Gruff
+
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
|7b/26
+
|7a/25
|4 Bolts
+
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
+
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|2.
 
|2.
|Route Do Me
+
|Who Killed Kenny?
 
|7b+/27
 
|7b+/27
|4 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
+
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
 
|
 
|
|-
 
|3.
 
|Gluttony
 
|7c+/29
 
|4 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
 
|
 
|-
 
|4.
 
|Where Eagles Dare
 
|5c/16
 
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 
|On the slab.
 
|-
 
|5.
 
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
 
|5a/13
 
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
 
|On the slab.
 
|-
 
|6.
 
|Disprin
 
|25/7a+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|
 
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
 
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
 
 
|}
 
|}
  
Line 893: Line 632:
 
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
 
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
 
|}
 
|}
 +
 +
== The Swamp ==
 +
 +
*'''The Swamp Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Gruff
 +
|7b/26
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Route Do Me
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Gluttony
 +
|7c+/29
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Where Eagles Dare
 +
|5c/16
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|On the slab.
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
 +
|5a/13
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
 +
|On the slab.
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Disprin
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
 +
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
 +
|}
 +
 +
== Playground ==
 +
 +
*'''Playground Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Jungle Gym Junkie
 +
|5c/18
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Jungle Jim
 +
|6a/19
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|See Saw
 +
|4/15
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|The Jester
 +
|6c+/24
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Party-on Wayne
 +
|7a/25
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Jus Klup Ut
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Powerplay
 +
|7a+/25
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. E February. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Fun in the Sun
 +
|6b+/22
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
  
 
== Uriah Heep ==
 
== Uriah Heep ==
Line 973: Line 855:
 
|}
 
|}
  
== Waterworld ==
+
== The Arete ==
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
+
  
*'''Waterworld History'''
 
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
 
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
 
  
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
+
== Berlin Wall ==
 +
 
 +
 
 +
*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.  
  
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
 
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
 
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 996: Line 875:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
+
|Minefield
|19/6a/6a+
+
|6c/22
|8 Bolts
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|2.  
+
|2.
|Arendsig
+
|Vays und Meenz
|18/6a
+
|7a/24
|8 Bolts
+
|11 Bolts
|*****
+
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|3.  
+
|3.
|Walk On By
+
|Streef Bogananoff
|23/6c+
+
|7a/24
 
|8 Bolts
 
|8 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|4.  
+
|4.
|Some Would Say
+
|Hot Toddy Bension
|26/7b
+
|7c/28
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.  
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.  
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|5.  
+
|5.
|Simply Irresistable
+
|Brandenburg Gate
|27/7b+  
+
|6b+/21
|5 Bolts  
+
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jåger
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
 
|(Branches left)
 
 
|-
 
|-
|5.b
+
|6.
|The Singularity
+
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
|29/7c+  
+
|27/7b+
|5 Bolts
+
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
 
|(veers right)
 
 
|-
 
|-
|6.  
+
|7.
|Firestarter!
+
| <open project>
|29/7c+
+
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. Stuart Brown
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
== Worlds Apart ==
 +
 
 +
== Jurrasic Park ==
 +
 
 +
*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Against the Grain
 +
|7c/28
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Jabulani
 +
|7c/28
 
|9 Bolts
 
|9 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|7.  
+
|3.
|My Route Down By The River
+
|Big Bag Voodoo
|31/8a+
+
|5/17
|10 Bolts
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|8.  
+
|4.
|Chongalolo
+
| <project>
|Project
+
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|9.  
+
|5.
|Twist And Crawl
+
|Masawattee
|28/7c
+
|35/8c+
|12 Bolts
+
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
+
|
 +
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|10.  
+
|6.
|The Mission
+
|Nugget Slab
 +
|18/6a
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
 +
|On slab opposing overhang.
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
== The Laundry ==
 +
 
 +
*'''The Laundry Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Super Blue
 
|24/7a
 
|24/7a
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
+
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
+
|
 
|-
 
|-
|11.  
+
|2.
|Sidewinder
+
|Stay Soft
|24/7a
+
|26/7b
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== The Rage ==
 +
 
 +
 
 +
*'''The Rage Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Bullet in the Head
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
 +
|This route is manufactured.
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== The Hotel ==
 +
 
 +
*'''The Hotel Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|The Key
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|The bellboys, The bellboys
 +
|26/7b
 
|6 Bolts
 
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|12.  
+
|3.
|Creepy Crawly
+
|U Like Jamin?
|20/6a+
+
|23/6c+
 
|6 Bolts
 
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Rim Service
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
 +
 +
== The Bar ==
 +
 +
 +
  
  
 
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>> Back to [[Montagu]] page

Revision as of 16:48, 22 January 2013

>> Back to Montagu main page

How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meeul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meeul to Avalon Springs.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Bad Kloof Climbing Map

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Crags in Bad Kloof

The Penthouse

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

  • Waterworld History

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Waterworld Topo

  • WaterworldRoute List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Monkey See Monkey Do 19/6a/6a+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
2. Arendsig 18/6a 8 Bolts ***** BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
3. Walk On By 23/6c+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
4. Some Would Say 26/7b 7 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
5. Simply Irresistable 27/7b+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. (Branches left)
5.b The Singularity 29/7c+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 (veers right)
6. Firestarter! 29/7c+ 9 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
7. My Route Down By The River 31/8a+ 10 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
8. Chongalolo Project BB: Matt Bush.
9. Twist And Crawl 28/7c 12 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
10. The Mission 24/7a 5 Bolts BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. This is the original route at Waterworld.
11. Sidewinder 24/7a 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
12. Creepy Crawly 20/6a+ 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.




Peanut Gallery

  • Peanut Gallery Route List

Bad Kloof Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Good Day for Basketball 22/6c 4 Bolts FA. R Holwill. 1997.
2. Finding Ningo 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
3. <unknown> 31/8a+ FA. <unknown>

Lion Said

  • Lion Said Route List

Bad Kloof From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Short Cut 21/6b+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
2. Short, Sharp, Shock! 23/6c+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
3. Come Short 25/7a+ 3 Bolts BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
4. Hello Aloe 15/ 5b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
5. Devil Speak 21/6b+ 9 Bolts FA. K Schumann. 1998.

Sloth

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu


  • Supertubes Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Wax my Gun and have some Fun 21/6b+ 6 Bolts FA. T Hyde. 1999.
2. The Dumper 15/5b 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
3. Beach Break 19/6a+ 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
4. Whoa She Poopie 29/7c+ 10 Bolts BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
5. Point Break 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
6. Rad and Bad 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
7. Surf and Turf 23/6c+ 7 Bolts <add FA>
8. Leap Tide 27/7b+ 9 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. Shares same chains as Thruster
9. Thruster 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
10. Triple Stinger 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
11. J-Bay 28/7c 9 Bolts FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
12. Wipe Out 30/8a 5 Bolts FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
13. Hypoxia 29/7c+ 7 Bolts FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
14. First Wave 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
15. <unknown> <add details>


Pipeline

  • Pipeline Route List

Bad Kloof There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <Open Project>
2. <Open Project>
3. <Open Project>
4. <Open Project>

South Park

  • South Park Route List

Bad Kloof The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Cartman Gets an Anal Probe 7a/25 7 Bolts FA. C Bruton. 1999.
2. Who Killed Kenny? 7b+/27 5 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.

The Palace

  • The Palace Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bad Cop, No Donut 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. J Samson. 2004. Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
2. Elegantly Wasted 26/7b 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
3. S102 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2004.
4. Icarus 23/6c+ <unknown>
5. Lexi's Route 25/7a+ 7 Bolts <unknown>
6. Cyberpunk 25/7a+ 9 Bolts ***** FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
7. MoonaBoos 27/7b+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1999.
8. Shagadelic 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2000
9. Burning Chrome 28/7c 14 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
10. Judge Dredd 29/7c+ 13 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
11. Strange Days 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
12. About Time 27/7b+ 12 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
13. The Activist 30/8a 11 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
14. The Neuromancer 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
15. Mad Max 21/6b+ 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
16. Psycho Ranger 20/6b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.

The Swamp

  • The Swamp Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Gruff 7b/26 4 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
2. Route Do Me 7b+/27 4 Bolts FA. S Maasch. 1994.
3. Gluttony 7c+/29 4 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996.
4. Where Eagles Dare 5c/16 7 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. On the slab.
5. There Lurks the Boogie-Man 5a/13 8 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. On the slab.
6. Disprin 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. This route is above the last 2 routes.

Playground

  • Playground Route List

Bad Kloof Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18 4 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1993.
2. Jungle Jim 6a/19 4 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
3. See Saw 4/15 3 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
4. The Jester 6c+/24 3 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1992.
5. Party-on Wayne 7a/25 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
6. Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
7. Powerplay 7a+/25 4 Bolts FA. E February. 1995.
8. Fun in the Sun 6b+/22 3 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1994.


Uriah Heep

  • Uriah Heep Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Love Machine 6b+/22 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.
2. Stealin' 6b+/22 9 Bolts FA. G Hart. 1993.
3. Digital Bitch 7b/26 6 Bolts FA. P Becker. 1993.
4. Demons and Wizards 7b+/28 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1994.
5. Easy Living 7b/26 5 Bolts FA. D Pothier. 1993.
6. November Afternoon 6c/23 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993. Top jug broken off Jan 2013
7. July Morning 6b+/22 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
8. Firefly 6a/19 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.

The Arete

Berlin Wall

  • Berlin Wall Route List

Bad Kloof This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Minefield 6c/22 5 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
2. Vays und Meenz 7a/24 11 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
3. Streef Bogananoff 7a/24 8 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 2002.
4. Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
5. Brandenburg Gate 6b+/21 8 Bolts FA. M Jåger
6. Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 27/7b+ 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
7. <open project> BB. Stuart Brown

Worlds Apart

Jurrasic Park

  • Jurrasic Park Route List

Bad Kloof Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Against the Grain 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. Jamson. 1995.
2. Jabulani 7c/28 9 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
3. Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
4. <project>
5. Masawattee 35/8c+ BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
6. Nugget Slab 18/6a 8 Bolts BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. On slab opposing overhang.

The Laundry

  • The Laundry Route List

Bad Kloof Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Super Blue 24/7a 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1998.
2. Stay Soft 26/7b 5 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1998.
3. <open project>
4. <open project>


The Rage

  • The Rage Route List

Bad Kloof Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bullet in the Head 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1995. This route is manufactured.


The Hotel

  • The Hotel Route List

Bad Kloof Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. The Key 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
2. The bellboys, The bellboys 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997
3. U Like Jamin? 23/6c+ 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
4. Rim Service 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.

The Bar

>> Back to Montagu page